UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: 205Chris on January 02, 2012, 05:37:17 pm
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Couldn't see the usual 'Best of' thread anywhere so may as well make a start.
What were the climbing highlights of last year for everyone? Doesn't have to be the hardest, but what stands out for you looking back at 2011?
The usual categories are below. 3 problems / routes in each category or N/A if it's not your thing.
I'll kick off when I've looked back through my diary!
Top three boulder probs, UK
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new route/prob put up
Top Spanking's
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UK :
Beauty 6C+ (Stanage)
Classic arete 5+ (Carn Brea)
Right Arete assis 5 (Carn Brea)
Abroad :
Barricades 7A (111, Font)
Puree de Noisettes 7B+ (Beorlots, Font)
Ange Naif 7B+ (95.2, Font)
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Not the greatest year in terms of bouldering achievements given how little I got out due to the weather but:
T-Crack
Presence of Absence
Flatworld.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Two trips to Font this year so a few to pick from:
Pensees Cachees - My foot slipped with my hand over the top and despite 3 frenchies shouting 'Allez' at the top of their voices I dropped it. Went back on the last day of the trip and ticked it first go after a bizarre warm up routine.
Big Jim - Fantastic highball
Onde de Choc - Quality arete.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Slim pickings as I don't do a huge amount of trad but did have a trip to the Wye Valley so:
Whitt at Symonds Yat - Never got round to ticking this when I lived there so good to go back and do it. Awesome views.
Piggy Malone (Symonds Yat) - Only a one star route but it was short, steep and just like climbing at Cheedale giving me my hardest trad lead to date.
Laughing Cavaliers (Shorn Cliff) - 100ft of quality limestone climbing followed by listening to the stories of a 73 year old climbing legend while I belayed my mate on his next route.
Top three sport routes UK
Powerplant - Hardest physical and mental battle to date. 2 months of effort and over 10 belayers. Did the route and got back to the car park just in time for an ice cream. Bonus.
The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag - After a ridiculous number of visits thinking it would be a relatively quick tick I finally did it towards the end of the limestone season.
The Boltest - I have no idea how I did this. I felt piss weak and could barely do the moves on a top rope. Somehow pulled it out the bag on redpoint leading to another climber remarking "I have no idea how you did that as you looked rubbish on it last go"
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
An Easter Siurana trip gives:
Bistec de Biceps - Short, bouldery and playing to my strengths.
Filomatic - A limestone arete with very grit like moves. Great stuff.
Pizza de Pinya - First 7a flash abroad and a great route.
Top three new route/prob put up
Lots in my garage. None are particularly relevant in the grand scheme of things.
Top Spankings
Shit @ Higgar (although put that to bed as the first tick of 2012!)
My Apple (Rowtor)
Kudos (for yet another year!)
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boulder problems uk
west side story
picnic sarcastic
underhand
boulder problems abroad
carlo il magnifico, best thing i did in cresciano, no other trips
top three trad
power of the dark side, amazing climbing and of great personal significance
one chromosone missing, amazingly good esoterica
cream, simply stunning good holds when you want them
Top three sport uk
esmerunga, mental battle, first real experience of redpointing
max-a-million, great dyno
laughing at the rain, climbed in a monsoon and it felt easy, very surreal
new routes
feathers, my only significant fa yet, lovely e5 arete in dartmoor. like piece of mind at the roaches.
some grubby bouldering in the quarry that cannot be named/doesnt deserve one.
Top spankings
Flatworld, its 7c FFS.
Thumbelina at inas today, rare that i cant get anywhere on font 7a with tonnes of beta.
triangle wall at burbage s, another 7a that feels 8a.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Nothing stands out though Hamper Hang (from the jug) was the best
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Annual Font trip was good at Easter with La Fissure de droite at Rocher d'Avon on the last day standing out.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Pass as in zilch not Llanberis. Do intend to get back into tradding this year - working on the High Tor script for the guide has stirred my loins
Top three sport routes UK
Baboo-baboo at Malham. Tried this on and off for years using a duff sequence. A special route.
Toys for the Boys at Chee Dale. Amazing rock with technical wall climbing - again an outstanding project from the previous year
In and Out of Body Experience. Nice to do Body Machine again and top it off crossing the spectacular roof above. A good addition by the Zipmeister which went quickly for once.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Spoilt for choice in this category
Although I only dogged it I thought Turbulence 7b+ at Cantobre was mega
Eventually got my head around DWSing in Mallorca in the summer and out of a batch of amazing 7a's Transversal done as the last route route of the trip stood out as the bestest
Priapos at the Grande Grotte at Kalymnos was the route of the year - ridiculously overhanging with tufa hugging rests
Top three new route/prob put up
Got one on the go at the tor - should go quickly next this year, touch wood
Top Spankings
Airbus at Gorg Blau, Mallorca. Looked like my perfect route - a long wall climb given 3 stars. Didnt even make it to the bail out krab. And chipped. 7b my arse. Thanks Rockfax.
Anger Management (Rage) at the tor. Put 12+ days into this and didnt even get close. 8a my arse.
Cantobre in general. I could tell as I approached the crag that I was in for a :spank: A relentless overhanging pocketed wall where faggotry is no help.
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havnt trawled for the ridiculous aims of mine 12 months ago...
bit of a weird one, i totally shagged a tendon on my board 1st week in jan 2011... even with a late easter I got to font for my week long holiday en famille totally no trained, in any way. the weather was scorching. I had a great time, just did 20 to 40 blues a day... incl. my first ever tick of a whole circuit in a day effort.
for the first year in 5 since restarting climbing i havnt climbed a new to me font 7a this year. this saddens me.
I have however not got hospitalised from MTB all year, hit some lines I though i never would, have *got it* with double jumps, helped build some wkd trails and crucially have realised i need to work less.... so spend more time at home / see my kids in daylight / progress my sporting aims whilst i have the time left to fulfil them.
as a close friend said to me this week
" we dont know how long we have left"
My aims foe 2012 reflect this.
8)
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Wasn't going to reply this year as climbing has almost been totally replaced by nappies, broken sleep, and Ben and Hollies little Kingdom.
However, I did sneak out a bit, and rather than get depressed :boohoo:, here are the best bits/ what I got done:
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Bardsley Ripple high tide start
Zukator - Grasper connection
German School girls
Top three sport routes UK
Guano on sight, Llandulas
Crazy train, Llanberis Slate
Pump Action, Llandulas
Top three new routes /probs put up
Its not the Years, Its the Mileage, Highball V6 Nant peris
The Science of the Sword, Micro V6, on the erratic above Llanberis campsite
Tales of the Golden Monkey, E2 in Twll Mawr
Top Spanking's
Big Thursday
Moose's Project
The Beast Project
Now I write it down its not so shite.. :2thumbsup:
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Problems above the traverses - Rubicon (thanks for the beta 2T)
A Bigger Prize - Rubicon
Dog Sit - Burbage South Boulders
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Blinky Bill - Sissy
Easy low roof thing - Sandy Bay
The Overhang - Lindfield
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Top three boulder probs, UK
The Pride, Lion Rock, Churnet definitely stands out. Amazing uber-highball, done on my birthday with a good crew- cheers guys.
L'angle parfait, Millstone. Subsequent arguments over the line aside, this was one of the problem-solving highlights of my life. A strong team, totally shut down for a two hours, then a lightbulb moment and three goes later its done. Really bizarre footwork. And Ryan didn't do it.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Too much choice here... stag do in March was the best font trip I've had - again, thanks to the crew. Good times. :2thumbsup:
Calamity Jane, 7b+, Rocher D'Avon. Bigger, harder and ten times better than Super Prestat. A must do - would be a celebrated old school E5 6c in the UK.
Hotline, 7c, Reine Crete, Nord. Sussed a weaklings way here a couple of years back, very satisfying to have it work.
Irreversible, 7c, Manoury. Totally destroyed on the last day of the trip, somehow dragged up this amazing prow by team psyche. Ten minutes later three cranes flew overhead.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Cow, Gogarth. Great mini-tirp to North Wales tradding this summer - why don't we do that more often? The first pitch of The Cow was just a thrutch, the second is just incredible. A series of irreversible moves leading into an ever more ludicrous position - blew my mind, amazing... yorks grit guide authors - THAT is a 4 star pitch.
London Wall, Millstone. At last I gained enough fitness to consider setting off on this. Fully deserving of the hype - will be going back for more I reckon, should be more fun if I don't spend an hour over 'making sure I don't blow it'..
Atomic Hotrod, Dinas Cromlech. Only seconded this, but the ever growing reality of succeeding where my leader had so comprehensively failed turned it into a greater experience.
Top three sport routes UK
Succubus, Cornice. Actually good fun, varied climbing. Not like the Cornice at all, even finishes with an exposed teetery slab.
The Sea is a Brown Paper bag, Two-tier. Quite a good route,and it didn't turn into a siege.
Indecent Exposure (direct) A shit route, but I got up it - probably the only proper stamina route I've ever managed. Why it gets any stars is beyond me though. I even had to look the name up for this, my brain has blanked it.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new route/prob put up
Vaguely remember doing one? Bueller?
Top Spanking's
Body Machine, Tor. Fittest I've ever been, and still MILES away from this. It would help if I liked it.
Pirouette Cacaouette, 7c, Mare aux Corneilles Should have done this quick, but had that horrible font experience of feeling it slipping away - just as you suss the move your elbows go, your biceps give up... and you won't be coming back for years, argghhh......
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Hurricane - Curbar
Tetris - Clouds
Paint It Black - BWD
Top three boulder probs, abroad
None - apart from some no-name pottering in Burren
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Flying Buttress Direct - solo. Never done it before. Regardez fucking moi.
Top three sport routes UK
Sturgeon - Embwankment
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Sirens, Stoned and Marchanded Crack at Der Burren.
Top three new route/prob put up
Monochrome (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=18304.0) - Burbage North. A future classic already in the present. Has anyone been and done this yet?
Top Spankings
Mossatrocity - fucking piece of shit screwed my knee for months.
The Boltest - LTQ - only tried it once but fuck me this is crazily hard for 7c or whatever grade it is.
Wall Of Fossils - Burren. I was only seconding it, but I don't remember feeling so fucking pumped and knackered for years. And its not even fucking vertical. Had to have a moment to myself when I got to the top. Spreyer you're a legend.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Tetris (one of the best lines on grit, done with my fav climbing buddies)
West Side Story (Another uber classic line. I did this in under a dozen tries on my first session and strapped on my nut-sack and topped it out)
Paint it Black (one of the best lines on lime, done on last day of summer as planned)
Top three trad routes/soloes UK (Got to be from my first DWS trip)
Crab Party
Octopuss Weed
Spittle 'n' Spume
Top three sport routes UK (I only did 3 sort routes this year!)
Arachonothera Direct - Cheedale - 6b+
The Cairn - Harpur Hill - 7a
Too Old To Be Bold - Rubicon - 7c
Top Spanking's
Most of the sport climbs I tried :(
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Going to say home instead of UK, as Ireland is not part of the UK and this is highly important to some people....
Top three boulder probs, Home
Highball slopey traverse on Echo Rock in the Polldoo Glen, Donegal
L.D.F, The Scalp, Dublin
Tony's Arete, Lough Dan, Wicklow (highball and a bit scary, well pleased to get it in a couple of goes)
Top three trad routes, Home
Jolly Rodger, Fair Head
Spillikin Ridge, Glendalough
Hurricane, Fair Head
Top route, abroad
Regular NW Face, Half Dome
Top three new routes/problems
The Gift, E1/2, Gola
Bloodline, XS, Aranmore
Slot Machine, 6C, Wicklow Head
Top spankings
The Burren. Kicked my arse for yet another year, and threw a right strop (and a shoe) on Lucy. Grrrr, must do better.
Luggala. Utter fail.
Incredibly soft 5.10a hand crack in Tuolumne. Utter, dire, dismal, whinging, 10 feet off the ground failure.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Spent my time in the UK developing quarries, only did a few established problems
Fridge Hugger, 7B+, Blackstone Edge...Good fun with a team, a rare occasion at the moment. Nice to return after several years and figure out a technical solution, and triumph despite ever worsening mist.
Voodoo People, 7B, Warton...First outing in the uk after getting back from Oz. Nothing special about the problem, memorable mostly because I managed to get heatstroke and throw up. In the UK. After spending an Australian summer bouldering in the gramps.
Innominate, 6B+, Wilton...Great highball to the break. A nice English summer spent exploring the Wiltons and discovering much more than I expected.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Between Fear and Desire, 7C+, Arapiles...3 months of dirtbag living. waking up to blue skies, lazy mornings, evening campfires and a feeling of freedom.
The Impossible Problem, 7B+?, Arapiles...Learned about this negelected 80's gem from a Nati local. Lowball, but two of the best holds in Arapiles.
Annagramma, 7C, Grampians...Nice moves, but mostly just great to climb in such an incredible cave. Australian summer time, not prime climbing conditions, but after 4 months of chugging and 4 weeks of farm work, I'm psyched!
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Tidal Wave, 7B+, Ton Sai...First day, first hardish route, nearly flashed. Turns out sport climbing is going to be fun!
Cream of Tom Yum Kai, 8A, Ton Sai, Thailand...Last hour of light, shaking out on a jug before the final traverse, watching the waves crash onto the beach in a tropical paradise, thinking "this is flippin' awesome".
Phet Maak Maak, 7C+, Ton Sai...Top route, probably the best I did, big moves all the way up. Great holiday, great food, surprised to find getting on a rope not too much of a shock to the system. (Though after three weeks my clipping is still a regular 5 minute fumble.)
Top three new route/prob put up
Drop Your Weapons, 7C, Curbar...Had a few sessions on this over a year ago, then finally finished it off this autumn. Incorporates one of the wierdest and best moves I've done on grit. Pleased that it all came together - often with new lines either the vision or the ability is found wanting, but this time I was lucky.
The Boss, 7B, Arapiles...If there's no way out of the cave, then finish on a different boulder...Resulted in a swing kick press finish. "Wrap your laughing gear round that and smile backwards."
Purple Feel, 7B/Sex in the Woods, 7A, Wiltons...Smearing on friction-low quarried grit, technical and tenuous. Happy times bouldering on my tod.
Top Spankings
Sleepy Hollow, Grampians...One week left till GAACS (girlfriend arrives and climbing stops). Stop farting around on easy stuff and try something hard. Two sessions - all moves sussed. Three sessions - climbed in three sections. Four sessions - bollocks to this, its hard, the walk in is a pain in the heat, I'm fed up. Back to farting around on easy stuff...
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2011 was the year of the mega week for me, so my top three UK boulders are easy to remember :
Top three boulder probs, UK
Trigger Cut - Parisella's cave
Zoo York - caley
Low Rider - stanage
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Went to font for two hours. Burnt some germans off on a 6b. Brilliant.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Didn't do any.
Top three sport routes UK
Without a shadow of a doubt the favourite was Roof Warrior at the cheedale cornice. Brilliant.
Also cry of despair at the same place. I liked this one so much I went searching for people who needed the clips putting in it, so I could do it again.
Culloden, down the road from the Tor. Power of climbing tick.
Top three new route/prob put up
That one on the depot board i didnt think I would be able to do.
Top Spankings
Mecca. Inability to operate effectively above a bolt definately impeding progress.
The last move on seans roof. Its fucking desperate, even with a massive rope dab!
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Top three boulder probs, UK
1. In Life, Parisella's (a proper siege!)
2. Suavito, Gardom's South (proper class)
3. Lateral Mindset, St Bees (looks improbable, nice free running meets climbing style)
Top three boulder probs, abroad
1. Octopussy, Magic Wood (Wanted to try this for years)
2. Fourmis Rouges, Cuvier Rempart (Thought I'd never get that right foot up for the top!)
3. Cote de Seshuan, Magic Wood (Superb climbing with a great finish)
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
1. Gnat Attack, Bus Stop Quarry - think thats the only route. Very enjoyable :)
Top three sport routes UK
I did a couple 6c's in Bus Stop Quarry which aren't worth remembering!
Top three new route/prob put up
1. Rainbow Underpants 7Aish, Chew Valley
2. Angry Pants 7Bish, Chew Valley
(although may have both been done before?)
Top Spanking's
1. Pilgrim, Parisella's - 4-5 sessions failing after getting through matching the glued on flake on R.A.
2. Cross Therapy, Elephantitus - dropped last move ~10 times in 2 sessions
3. XXXX, Bowderstone - dropped lip about ~10 times in 2 sessions
4. Massive Attack, Magic Wood - still can't stick first move after 30+ attempts
Plenty more spankings but those are the main ones which need closure this year! :boxing:
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Top 3 boulder problems, UK
Not much of note, but Whisky Galore at Brimham and DIY at Stanage were memorable.
Top 3 boulder problems, abroad
Didn't get to Font this year...
Top 3 trad routes, UK
Crimson Cruiser, E4/5, Moelwyns - been on the ticklist for nearly 15 years, ever since I got the old Tremadog guide with this as the back cover photo.
Get Some In, E5, St. Govans - another one I've wanted to do for years.
The Rasp, E2, Higgar
Top 3 sport routes, UK
Not many new things of note, but finally ticked I Ain't No Sponsored Hero (F7c) at Kilnsey after a lot of effort and enjoyed some of the cleaned up things at Trollers Gill.
Top 3 routes, abroad
Rahan Fils de Crao, 7b+, Baume Rousse - awesome swinging around on buckets until the last crimp...
Madre Salvaje, 7c, El Chorro - been saving this for a flash attempt for a few years and somehow managed to battle my way to the top.
Styv Kuling, 7a+, Vindon - was well impressed with the variety of the sport climbing in Sweden, but this was the pick of the routes; technical then steep and juggy, with an airy traverse to finish.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Glass Hour - Unique and beautiful.
Jerry's Arete/The Kid/Dry Wit In a Wet Country - not a single problem I know but a class day out when the groove was greased.
Toto - Dumby - goes from feeling nails to ok with a bit of working out but that last teeter across the slab can never feel easy
Top three boulder probs, abroad
La Forge - having tried it previously with friends and a few pads, early one morning got lost among the boulders and ended up here, decided to have a look and sailed through the bottom about 3rd go, felt miles up above a lone pad which was maybe a little far right. What's above - stick or twist? A couple of Spaniards come around the corner, slide the mat over and throw their arms up. Only one way to go now and I claw my way up. Thanks, merci, gracias, got there eventually.
Duroxmanie - arrive dismayed to find a multinational team beneath it, I was after solitude. 10 minutes later battling with the top I'm quite relieved for their support, and pads.
Printemps du Martin (J.A.Martin) - last problem of the last day, not the best, not the hardest and very unfont-like but it rounded off a good afternoon and a great holiday with an old mate and our families.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Elegy & Rasp - a couple that I really should have done years and years ago but would probably have backed off the former and fallen off the latter.
Flying Buttress & Spiral Stairs - a couple I'd been saving for old age, hmm, probably the only dry things in the pass on the day, a great day out with my oldest still-climbing mate.
Russet Groove - a stop off on the way home from Scotland, dragged the family away from the coast to have a picnic at Bowden. It was the only thing I completed but it was worth the upset.
Top three sport routes UK
Flowstone Shuffle - A55. Driven here on a damp day, early season & lacking fitness it turned into a bit of a scrap, a proper gem you wouldn't expect in such a location.
Cry of Despair - turned into a bit of an epic battle with partners, the Cornice's fickle conditions and my lack of fitness, only four sessions when I totted them up but spread over 10 weeks. It eventually went on the last available day before going on holiday, fourth redpoint of the day having only managed two decent attempts per day previously.
Top Spanking's
tried Armistice Day on a couple of occasions but keep getting slapped down
Burbage South edge mocks me every time I go
so does the Tor
and the Cave
and the Cliff....
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Top three boulder probs, UK
- Rock Atrocity, The Cave - First tried about 4 years ago, nothing better than the feeling of progress, micro beta provided by the Turnip.
- Prime Time SS, Kyloe - Amazing climbing in a great setting, in a completely deserted county on the day of the royal wedding.
- Inaudible Vaudeville, The Stone. Jerry Classic, in the rain, on my own; training on a board paid off.
Pretty happy with this list considering I've been in London for the past two years, and don't often get the chance to get out on rocks. I guess I chose to climb on problems that were most like plastic pulling...
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Haven't been off our fair isle this year.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
- A day climbing severes at Tremadog was the only trad I did, very enjoyable it was too!
- A couple of chilly days at Stair Hole in August were my introduction to DWS. The easy stuff was amazing; the harder stuff very intimidating on your own. Will be returning for more.
Top three sport routes UK
Yew Terrace is the only sport route I did. It was good, the walk out was not, but the beer and company made up for it!
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
See above.
Top three new route/prob put up
N?A
Top Spankings
- Malc's Arete, Torridon. I won't say that our trip to Torridon was solely inspired by this problem, but it mainly was. Spanked royally by big move to the top, and with only two days of dry weather in the week we were there. Taught me a lot about trying hard stuff on holiday, and about when to stop concentrating on the goal and enjoy the climbing and the setting instead. (I wouldn't argue with 7C for this, maybe it feels easier if you're tall).
- The Flakes, Earl. Returned after several years away from this expecting it to go down quick. Still totally shut down by the big move out left. What a punter.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Another year of hardly any bouldering. Keen to do lots in the 2nd half of winter if it ever stops raining!
36 Chambers 7c, Tremeirchion. Best limestone 7c i've done.
Grasswind 7c, Craftnant. Looks ace and climbs ace.
Belpig 7c, Orme. Is a really cool problem but on the list cos i never thought i'd do it!
Top three boulder probs, abroad
One can dream.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
One less than Richie Crouch, pretty shameful.
Top three sport routes UK
Hard decision did 3 times more routes than most years.
Never Get Out of the Boat 8a, The Diamond. One of the best 8as in the UK, amazing climbing,sustained with a amazing redpoint crux at the end.
The Waiting Game 8a, The Diamond. Really unique little route and line and was memorable due to the (silly but amazing) beta i employed on the crux.
Release The Hounds 7c, Craigiau Gigfran. Once again a unique line for the area and just a bit special really. Hopefully it'll get lots of ascents next year.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
A man can dream
Top three new route/prob put up
Was the year of crag development for me and did 24 new routes in total so plenty of choice.
The Last Crusade 8a+, Llanddulas. Just loved the process of spying the line, checking out the end on a rope then getting the ladder up there to bolt it. Days hanging there working it out and it was a great route to boot. Extra spice at the end with ground clearance made it even more memorable.
The Madness Reigns 8a, Dyserth Waterfall. Probably went to this crag more than any other. Thought the crux sequence on this was immense.
The Hole Truth 8b, Dyserth Waterfall. Short and nasty but thats why i got so inspired by it. The brutalness and lack of options beta wise made it feel unlikely for a while but they always come together eventually. Can't wait for Pete Robins to downgrade it!
Top Spankings
Bored of the Lies 7b+, Cheedale Cornice. Wasn't climbing very well back then but just wasn't fit enough for this, fell off the last moves a few times. Never do well at this crag!
Grand Canyon 7b+, Pantymwyn. Always saved this for a flash go, got there also in shit mode and got a terminal flash pump trying to warm up on it. Didn't get it that session and only just the next session. Brilliant route though, feels more like a Yorkshire route.
Coronation Crack 5c, High Rocks. Had a fun day on S sandstone with the boys whilst working in Kent. Lots of spanking went on but my best moment was sliding out of this hand jam crack whilst trying to layback and heel hook my way up it. Watch out Wideboyz!
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Clash Arete V7, Clashfarquar
The Razor's Edge V6, Ruthven Boulder
Powerhouse V6, Loch Sloy
Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A
Top three six trad routes/soloes UK
Arial E3 5c, Loch Maree
Cirrhosis E4 6a, South Cove
Gillette E3 5c, Simonside
Simon Says E2 5c, Mid Clyth
The Man From Del Monte E3 6a, Portobello
Rat Race E4 6a, Dunkeld
Top three sport routes UK
Stone Of Destiny F6c+, The Camel
Toss F6c+, Creag Nan Luch
Faithless F6c+, Weem
Top three six nine routes abroad (any genre)
En Liten Bit Granit 7-, Bohuslan
Afterburner 6+, Bohuslan
Hostsonaten 6+, Bohuslan
Kerbside Warrior E3 6a, Malta
Stormin Norman E3 5b, Malta
More Gas Than Bass E3 5c, Malta
Garanon F6c, La Pedriza
Banana Split F6b+, La Pedriza
El Blues Del Esclavo F6c, Patones
Top three new route/prob put up
N/A
Top six Spankings
The vile cunting shit weather in Scotland.
The vile cunting shit weather in Scotland.
The vile cunting shit weather in Scotland.
Pedriza undergrading.
Health and fitness issues.
The vile cunting shit weather in Scotland.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
The bulge - Rubicon first 6A+ flash
Morrills Wall - Almscliff got it really fast great moves
Triangle problem - holmfirth finally finished off after 18 month battle
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Brown's eliminate First E2
none others really stand out
Top three sport routes UK
Flowstone shuffle - what a route got it first go on my second trip there my first 6b+
The cakewalk (castle inn quarry) - Good route but also my first 6b+ onsight 2 hours after redpointing my first 6b+
The Deceptive Dyke - just because it was my first experience of slate
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Blade Runner Arabe el chorro - brilliant route (get one star in rock fax ...)
Face of flake Arabe el chorro - another good route underated in Rockfax
Mongroni Free Los cotos el chorro - nice last move after cool climbing between decent rests
Top three new route/prob put up
I climbed a one new route that I thought was shit but subsquent ascents have suggested is worth a star. Revolution Action a bolted pillar at new mills torr.
Top Spanking's
Mr bluesky dropped it on the last hard move 4/5 times went back and got a pulley on my first proper attempt.
pedestal crack its piss easy but been spat off 3 or 4 times on two visits
crescent arete bottled it and been spat off high up a couple of times.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't do much bouldering this year but enjoyed
Hinge/Henge Connection and the Tiny Slab at Stanage, Diversion at Portland.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Did no trad worth mentioning this year. Something to fix for next year.
Top three sport routes UK
Had a good year at this.
Quality Control was my first UK 7a, enjoyed it a lot
Rubicon - immensely enjoyed the moves and line of this
Raw Deal at Cheddar, soft but really good fun
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Verglas at St Llorenc de Montgai
Spanglish at Santa Linya (Futbalin) though probably should be in Spankings too
Sin tarjeta de presentación at Pena Roja / Lliber
Top three new route/prob put up N/A
Top Spankings
Spanglish at Santa Linya - fell about 5 times on the last move after 25m
The X Files at Taddington - comprehensively spanked and scared on a 6b!
Prophets of Rage at Dancing Ledge - so close to this when conditions changed and it greased up. Gave me several months of injured shoulder to prove how much it spanked me.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Careless Torque, a few days into 2011.
China In Your Hands - the only other problem I did this year, again early Jan. Broke ankle same day falling off Superbloc, basically stopped any sort of proper climbing all year. Still fucked now.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
None.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None. Seconded a lot of the Chee Tor harder routes though, such as Autobahn, Snapdragon, Apocalypse, and Ceramic Extension.
Top three sport routes UK
Cosmopolitan 7b+
The Sea Is A Brown Paper Bag 7b+
Minos 7c+
These were the only new routes that I led, I was too injured/scared for most of the year. I did a fair bit of toproping though, I was pretty pleased to toprope Powerplant the non-kneebar way, and flash Stone The Loach.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None.
Top three new route/prob put up
None.
Top Spankings
Superbloc, although to be fair I reckon I'd have got it if I hadn't broken my ankle. Definitely my worst year ever, really dreadful.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Rock Atrocity, Simple Simon - After been shut down on both problems time and time again. Having held the last hold on Rock Atrocity for 30seconds flailing around trying to match and failing to do so. After slapping the last hold on Simple Simon twice and flying down the hill over my spotters. I thought they were never going to go. However, after being spanked on sport I had a bouldering resurgence and managed to tick off both of these problems, equally significant to me.
Ultimate Retro Party - After pulling on the lip once to suss the moves, I cracked this out 2nd go. I couldn't believe how is easy it felt. It was one of those days where you just know how to climb.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Le Toit de Cul De Chien - Well what an amazing route. Never been to Font before and this was just something else. Amazing.
Cortomaltese - Another crazy good problem and my first ever tick in the Forest. The start of an amazing week.
El Poussah - The end of an amazing week. Didn't think I'd have enough left in me on the last day after spending 7 days on the rock and with blood oozing out of 3 tips. Bit down one last time and I was on top of that boulder. Everything needed to work at the same time, Left heel can't pop, right toe has to catch in the roof, right hand can't pop off the sloper and then catch the left hand perfectly, Boom. Love it.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Thumbelina - I'll sneak this in here because there is no room in the bouldering section. Absolutely stunning bit of rock. Mega, Mega. I'll never forget how scared I was when I was actually on the ledge. Haha, I was so gripped putting the harness on to abseil back down. Fine climbing and even mantle-ing. What a wetter.
Top three sport routes UK
Bullworker, Brean - Racked up the quickdraws and just went. Amazing.
Dyperspace, Dinbren so so so much fun. So many ways to do it. The way I chose was to upside down toehook the block before matching my feet. None of this dyno/campus stylee everyone else does.
England's Dreaming, Portland - Really cool. Best route of a really good weekend just chalking off a load of mileage on 7a/+'s. The bit of rock that this is on though is really really good.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Bichaca, Desplomilandia Oh wow. Amazing setting. Amazing overhanging rock. Perfect holds. All I knew was that the crux was just over half height. I racked my quickdraws with the intention of working it. Got to halfheight and thought fuck it, I'm just going to go for it. Managed to get it first go by the skin of my teeth. Great acheivement.
Little Brown Baby, Frontales What can more can you say than pure climbing fun?
Tapas, Loja Capped a great trip off. Good burly moves on steep pocketed rock.
Top Spanking's
Rock Atrocity I hate it, I love it, I hate it, I love it. Got it in the end but fuck me was it hard work. This killed my psyche on so many trips to the cave.
Elite Syncopations had it in the bag, my first 8a. Then slipped off the easy finishing jugs with my foot somehow behind the rope. Just to rub insult into my wounds inverted and trashed my back against the rock. Probably deserved it. The next visit my mate pulled a crucial hold off for the sequence I was using so I got pissed and started bouldering again....
Hall of Mirrors. I was climbing so well at the time and this frigging 7c was killing me. I should have had it second go when I fucked up at the top and then spent about 8 goes fucking up the crux. Couldn't believe, should have been a walk in the park. Only 7c I've never completed. I still need to get back down. Bloody routes...
Great year.
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Poor Nige hope it heals properly in the end.
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My leanest year for some time, but did some good stuff, including:
Northern Soul, Hepburn – finally got up there to do this and it didn't disappoint. The best problem in the UK?
Alliance sit-start, Burbage – I'd always dismissed this as log, but then it climbs with a really lovely sequence at the bottom, plus you get to do the Alliance on top. Honorable mention to Desparate too.
Big Girl's Brow, Filthy Crag Q – pretty much the last thing this year, on an horrifically windy day – shame we had to bail cos of the wind. Great problem.
Mur de Lamentations, Font – bit of a surprise, it came out of nowhere. The first classic 'old school' hard Font prob I've done, and my hardest in Font. On a great trip too with amazing company and tomfoolery.
Don't really do routes, but Magical Mystery Tour at Berry Head is one of the best bits of climbing I've ever done. Hopefully I'll have enough testicles, stamina and arm bands to try Rainbow Bridge this August.
Did a bit of sport, and enjoyed Hungry Eyes down Chee Dale.
Spankings: dropped the last move on Cave sitter at the tor 3 or 4 times, before boredom/hurty knee won out. Boo hoo.
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I love this thread, psyche in a bottle. So much better than the 'did I acheive my stated goals thread'. My aim for 2012 is to do more stuff, and less planning.
Definitely my worst year ever, really dreadful.Poor Nige hope it heals properly in the end.
Careless Torque,
China In Your Hands
Seconded a lot of the Chee Tor harder routes though, such as Autobahn, Snapdragon, Apocalypse, and Ceramic Extension.
Cosmopolitan 7b+
The Sea Is A Brown Paper Bag 7b+
Minos 7c+
Toproping Powerplant the non-kneebar way, and flash Stone The Loach
Would you call that a bad year Fiend? I'll stop short of saying 'my heart fucking bleeds Nige', but if my worst year ever involves DOING CARELESS TORQUE, then leading 7c+ and toproping 8a/ flashing 7c, I think I'll get over it. ;)
Mur de Lamentations, Font – bit of a surprise, it came out of nowhere. The first classic 'old school' hard Font prob I've done, and my hardest in Font. On a great trip too with amazing company and tomfoolery.
Probably the most inspiring thing I witnessed last year. Fucking amazing! :strongbench:
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I haven't climbed that much, but here are the things that stand out:
- the entire UK trip, with in particular Rock Atrocity for the physical and mental battle;
- my incredible progress on my project;
- flashing a few things that I had to flash;
- building my wall and rediscovering how much I needed my climbing friend.
didn't do any new route I think, nor any kind of trad or alpine this summer.
top spankings:
- anything I tried in Varazze (but managed a 7a that involved campusing from a half pad two finger pocket...)
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I thought you HAD done Careless Torque. And not broken your ankle?
I too liked Cofe's Mur de thingy choice, your list in general, Dave's new problem at Burbage that actually looks good, also nai's and Stabby's stuff.
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Are you winding me up? No I haven't done Careless, I can't even do the start any more. Boo fuckin hoo.
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I can't even do the start any more.
Has it got too polished? ;)
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Malc's Arete - Torridon, perfect arete, massive tussle for 7a+
Some things at the Bowderstone
Top three boulder probs, abroad
King Cobra - Yosemite, scary and amazing, hat's off to Adam W for picking one of the plum lines in Camp 4
Acid Wash R- Happys not a totally amazing problem but good climbing and a bit of a fight to complete it.
Baba Hari Das [sp?] - Squamish, place was soaked but somehow this one was dry
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
not a very inspiring list but they are the only ones
Powerplant - Cornice
This is the sea -Cornice
The Green Alternative - tor
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
every route I did in Buoux was amazing. Best climbing venue ever?
Top three new route/prob put up
n/a
Top Spankings
Thriller - Yosemite, been wanting to do this since i first tried it in '92. The perfect boulder problem but not my style.
Four Door Dostoyevsky - Cornice, from the big hole to the top on my first day, then a lot of tries and days later still not done it
Mussell Beach - LPT, aaaargh
Dresden - Buoux, eeek terrifying, can't believe I used to do it as a warm up occasionally
The Crack - Bowden, every time I went to try this the person or persons I went to try it with did it and i didn't. One time five others did it and i didn't.
Half Way House - Cave, shothole ticklage but no cigar and lately not even getting that far. difficult without recourse to knees
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Gale Force Sit - Laggan
Strongbow - Laggan
Sanctuary - Applecross
Top three boulder probs, abroad
None.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
San Melas - first trad route of 2011, fluttery!
Deranged at St Govan's - never heard of it before getting on it, but ended up one of the best routes of the year.
Stripteaser, Loch Tollaidh - my dream! Fairly bold slab, perfect high friction gneiss.
Top three sport routes UK
Mactalla, Goat Crag - finally redpointed after a few days of effort in the spring.
Pink Pinkie Snuffs It - 1st try after failing to onsight in 2010. Surprised!
The Final Straw, The Camel - long, interesting, airy, esoteric pebble pulling.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Only 1 trip to spain this year, of which the best route was probably Beta de Boira, Espedelles, Margalef
Top three new route/prob put up
various things at Laggan boulders but the best problems keep getting nabbed when I show them to my mates...
Top Spankings
Malc's Arete, Torridon - 2 years of trying. Still counting...
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Johnny you should give CT a go, right up your street I reckon.
Stripteaser, Loch Tollaidh - my dream! Fairly bold slab, perfect high friction gneiss.
Woot! That's a good choice. Did that last summer. Someone had recommended it as "steady", bah it's bloody bold and sustained. Properly good slab route.
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For numerous reasons 2011 was a shit year for both generally and for climbing. These are the highlights of my 10 visits to the crag:
Top three boulder probs, UK - Rippled Wall, Bonehill. Have done this many times before but it is the only boulder prob I did this year.
Top three boulder probs, abroad - N/A
Top three trad routes/soloes UK - Longships Wall, Lands End - Has been on the list for years, but always beaten by tides and conditions. Not this time. Not as much of a fight as I'd hoped for, could be because it's like a peice of Wilton by the sea!
Devils Meridian - Levans Wall. Got halfway up on the onsight and was overcome by deja-vu. I had in fact been spat off back in 1998 / 1999. No arsing around this time though - great route, good honest crack climbing.
Top three sport routes UK - Still Waters Run Deep, Cheddar. Got spat on the onsight in 2006. Went back this year and got it first go putting clips in.
Did a few other sport routes but nothing worth mentioning.
Top three routes abroad (any genre) - didn't go abroad last year. Will do next year though
Top three new route/prob put up - N/A
Top Spanking's - Arms Race at Avon. Took a whipper in 1999 trying to clip the bolt. Couldn't get that far this time. As soon as we get a decent day I will sort this out.
Highlight of the year was getting a job after 6 months of stress. Moving to NZ in Feb. :2thumbsup:
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I worked too much over the spring and summer and early autumn to do anywhere near enough climbing.
Couple of things were good. Presence of Absence - which a couple of others have mentioned. Quite enjoyed Desperot as well.
I went to Scugdale a few times which is in a lovely place and I usually had the crag to myself.
Still getting spanked on Ben's Wall @ Curbar - have only been trying it on and (mainly) off for 12 years. Apparently you have to hang the pocket to get the tick and not just hit it.
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Top three boulder probs/UK
Little of note, few things in't Pass.
Top three boulder probs abroad
Zilch
Top 3 4 trad routes/solo's UK
An oddly lean year on the trad, too busy getting sucked up by the sport climbing vortex...... Saying that I'm pretty pleased getting these in the bag as they've all been on the list for years.
The Nectarine Run, Pass - waited way too long to get this done. Totally brilliant.
Satsumo Wrestler, The Pass - first E6 o/s whoopee doo. Looked easy looking down it from NR belay, felt nails on the runout headwall & terrifying.
Ceramic Extension, Chee Tor - Intended on just Ceramic, felt good so kept going.
Tufty Club Rebellion, Scimitar Ridge, Pass. Ace, always a joy to climb here.
Top 3 Sport Routes, UK
Supercool, Gordale. Fuckin' brill!! Believe the hype, its the best around.
Pierrepoint, Gordale - nigh on O/S...clips were in.
Sea is a brown paper bag, Cheedale. Surprisingly good.
Top three sport routes abroad
Dresden, Courage Fuyons & Le Loir stand out from Buoux.
Everything at La Balme de Yenne
Final Fantasy, Tournoux, Val Durance.
Fight Club, Rue de Masque, Val Durance.
Top Spankings
Diaclase 7b+, Grand Bois, Val Durance. 34.5 metres of quality tussle in 30+ degrees heat in 60+ minutes of climbing...all to fail 6 inches from the chain. Sulked for hours.
Effectively a spanking....Popped an A2 & A3 attempting to O/S Cry of Despair in September. Lay off ensued :(
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Satsumo Wrestler, The Pass - first E6 o/s whoopee doo. Looked easy looking down it from NR belay, felt nails on the runout headwall & terrifying.
Effort. I seconded Johnny on his (OS) first ascent and thought it was hard and goey. Reckon you chose a pretty solid one for your first E6 OS.
Tufty Club Rebellion, Scimitar Ridge, Pass. Ace, always a joy to climb here.
Whaheyyyyy!
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My son was born in April, so I did very little roped climbing in 2011. One brilliant 2-week trip to Font in September - hot weather, but loads of climbing, including some classics that have eluded me previously. And a work trip to the Alps during the worst spell of weather in July. Locally, I mopped up a few things that I've always struggled with...
Top three boulder probs, UK
Beneath the Breadline, Plantation. Have always found this desperate. Success due to lots of crouching around aretes at the Works?
Ben's Wall, Robin Hood's Stride. Felt easy - weird.
Rocket Man, Burbage Bridge. Weird dyno.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
El Poussif, Isatis. How many times have I tried this over the years? Day 9 of climbing and my Font eye was in. Did it along with L'Angle Bens despite it being hot.
Carnage, Cuvier. 28 degree heat!
La Proue, Medonnet. Near Cham. Nice to visit a new venue, though a better line than it climbs really.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Grand Potato, Baslow. Pre-fatherhood psyche and tons of pads.
Silk, Stanage. After many, many attempts over the years. Well chuffed.
Puffed Up, Newstones. A Staffs gem.
Top three sport routes UK
One evening down the Cornice, trying Free Monster and that was it!
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Diretta al Banano, a 5+ multi-pitch at Machaby. Beat an on-coming storm.
Cosmiques Arete. Shame about the crowds, but it is a fun day out. The Little Chamonix of Chamonix.
Black & White, Feechi, Saas Grund. Esoteric sport crag but sooo psyched to do some pitches, having hardly tied on all summer. Well psyched to o/s this tricky 7a+.
Top three new route/prob put up
None.
Top Spankings
Low Rider. 5 sessions I think. Did it to the jug and from the jug to the top, but never really got a brilliant sequence for the move onto the jug, so totally wasted by that point. Shelved.
Am pretty pleased to have kept my hand in all year, despite other priorities. Thank F for the Foundry lunch time sessions and the Works!
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Weedkiller Traverse
The Kraken
Headbanger or maybe Dead Calm...
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Magic Bus
Yogi
Retour aux Sources
As for the rest I don't own any string - at least not any I'd trust anymore...
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Hmm, not much bouldering this year (and I'm crap!) but had a good day out at RHS/Cratcliffe a month ago where I finally got up The Egg after having tried for a few years, and surprised myself getting along the Boring Traverse first try to get my first 6C (tried for a similar time as The Egg, could do all the moves but never link), and some other rounded arete over at RHS.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
As above, don't climb hard so now't I did have names, but enjoyed first trip to Font in three or four years. Usually do circuits and got one done each day (orange & blues) at a new area each time. Particularly enjoyed the blue circuit at Isatis (49 problems, great fun, mates first full circuit too, he'd always had a jaded view of bouldering in Font before hand).
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Long John's Slab (first E3, although lost my balance psyching myself up on the initial starting ledge and took a head-first dive onto the boulders, what a fucking dick I am!).
Suspense (got to get back on it and not be such a wuss to take the full tick though)
Sirplum (mate got the short straw of the first pitch, I had the fun lead :) )
Top three sport routes UK
Not done much sport in the UK but enjoyed various routes at Penmean Head purely because it was raining and it saved the day having driven over (plus despite the crap setting flowstone wall actually has some nice routes that I could do!). Enjoyed bolted routes on slate too.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Easy, all were in the Dolomites...
Tissi Route/West-South-West Arete on the First Sella Tower
Vinatzer / West Face on the Third Sella Tower
South West Arete, Torre Venezia
Top three new route/prob put up
:lol:
Top Spanking's
Where do I begin....
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Zoo York, Caley, I kept putting it off because I thought I was going to have an epic on it but it went quicker than I thought, awesome problem!
Big Al Qaeda, Robin Hoods Stride, went back to it over Christmas after getting spanked on it a few years ago, brilliant bit of climbing and stiff for 7B!
Master Kush, Rivelin Edge, did this a few days ago, great moves, one of the Peaks finest.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Imothep, Fontainebleau, what a perfect boulder problem, my first proper 8A in the forest, climbed in the last hour of our trip before leaving for the ferry, magical.
Misericorde, Fontainebleau, wanted to climb this for years, nearly died falling from the top before the send, awesome!
La Merveille, Fontainebleau, still can't believe I managed this, in a session as well!, hard, high, crux at the top, incredible. I love font.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Requiem, Dumbarton, massive route with loads of history, the most intimidating line I've ever set off up and seen. What an epic, my first E8, all the 8's :)
Menopause, Stoney, got pumped fiddling in wires after the crux, held on in for the onsight, good fight. Hard route!
Narcissus, Frogatt, cheated above pads, good to tick a classic though.
Top three sport routes UK
Zoolook, Malham, super classic, wanted to climb this for a long time, wet top out as well, sketchy.
GBH, Malham, great climbing, the left wall of Malham is brilliant.
Railway Children, Tunnel Wall, 7C onsight in the freezing cold with numb fingers, good times.
Top three new route/prob put up
Sabotaged, Dumbarton, really pleased to have got this, completed what is now a brilliant Sabotage Block trilogy. 3 amazing 8's
Ladderman, Dumbarton, cleaned up a project out of the new guide.
Top Spanking's
Careless, Stanage, been stood up once, can't repeat it, weak.
Cypher, Slipstones, 4 sessions and counting.
Had a pretty good year looking back, more psyched than ever!
I hope everyone has a good 2012!
:)
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Joe's Arete, Leggit and erm...
Really should be trying harder.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Cough...
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
1. AMERICA! YESYESYESYESYES!
2. Reach For The Sky. Representative of several good trips to Pembroke. A fine route and a typically under-starred and properly graded offering from the early 80s.
3. Commander Energy. A rare grit foray, a beautiful cool crisp evening, sun going down, Staffordshire looking marvellous. Not hard at all but it satisfyingly incorporated almost everything I am bad at.
Top three sport routes UK
1. Mr. Choo Choo. First 7a for a while, RPed but fairly efficiently. Good moves.
2. Shakin' Like A Leaf. Allegedly 7a, felt like E3 6a. Fine climbing.
3.
Top three routes abroad
1. Comici, Cima Grande
2. Alberto Rabadá o Murciana, Riglos
3. Inshallah Factor, Wadi Rum
Three excellent trips with great company and some long-standing goals achieved.
Top Spankings
Ripe Old Age and Haunted by a Million Screams, both seemed rather hard on first and only acquaintance but both had mitigating circumstances. No real spankings, which is a small problem in itself. I should be failing on more things. Perhaps that should be added to goals for 2012?
All-in-all a fine year: least injury-prone and best climbing since the 90s. Same recent parenthood tactics as T_B: saved by lunchtime sessions at The Arch. Similar but more so next year please.
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This is really hard! anyway..
Boulder problems UK
Underhand. Spent 10 sessions working it and got it licked in the spring... At the end of a long long session on it, cheered on/spotted by a passing Uptown.
Steves Wall, Almscliff. An odd but really enjoyable problem.. the first move requires lank and strength - took me a while to get the latter! The second move required me to perfect a kind of right leg flick and tuck to get the move and prevent a dab.. that took ages and felt oddly great when done.
Badger Arete, Kentmere. This has been 'within my grade' for a couple of years, but I've never got it together on it (its near my Foks house so gets a visit only when I'm up there). A month ago on a damp afternoon I got my shit together and nailed it. Felt superb, and nearly fell off the top out I was so happy :)
Downhill racer direct start (is this 7A+?) It was -14 on the car thermometer when I parked up.. it was so cold that Nai's blood from a flapper froze on my bouldering mat.. but the friction was amazing and so was the problem..
The rest - some bimbling in Rhodes, and only tied a rope on once this year :)
Top Spankings.
The Rasp at Higgar. Tried to second Nai up this... realised why I've not climbed trad for years! Got pumped to f*ck less than 1/2 way up, all technique and skill went out of the window, had to be lowered off.
Peak Lime Bouldering. I failed on everything with a 7 on it.. all I seem to do on it is tweak myself.. after a great spring on the grit I was psyched for some lime progress.. and made none.. next year I'll just treat it as a dirty training exercise rather than something to be enjoyed ;)
The Keel. I got the furthest on my first session on it! Since then backwards! I seem to have 3 lifes on this per session then my core implodes :) One for 2012......
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Why did Will have to post just as mustered the courage to record my pitiful year (another!), blighted by injuries and just too many commitments.
Top three problems
Harmers Arete (Harmers); Great highball that took far too much faffing.
Roll Out of the Barrel (Helsby); why did it take me so long to get round to this.
Three Left Hands (Helsby); I love this problem
Top three problems abroad (i.e. not in Cheshire)
Mur Pen Clegir (Mur Pen Clegir); pleased to get this great problem with dodgy knee and no spotters.
Burnt Heather (Thorn); heresy, but this looks much better than it climbs. Still, great to get to Thorn at last.
Score (Thorn); lovely!
First ascents
At the Drive In (Harmers); Really enjoyed this. And I did it and someone much younger and better than me didn't. Which was nice.
Artful Dodging (Helsby); an eliminate link-up - but a goodone, honest!
Stig Arete (Harmers); possibly/probably not an FA but a very neat little arete.
Nothing for any other category. This year looks set, if anything, to be even busier. On the upside I should be able to jettison sprog No. 1 come the autumn.
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This is really hard! anyway..
Downhill racer direct start (is this 7A+?) It was -14 on the car thermometer when I parked up.. it was so cold that Nai's blood from a flapper froze on my bouldering mat.. but the friction was amazing and so was the problem..
So hard you had to include one from December 2010 :whistle:
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This is really hard! anyway..
Downhill racer direct start (is this 7A+?) It was -14 on the car thermometer when I parked up.. it was so cold that Nai's blood from a flapper froze on my bouldering mat.. but the friction was amazing and so was the problem..
So hard you had to include one from December 2010 :whistle:
Pants.. I'd done three, then suddenly remembered that one! I'll get me coat... ;)
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Not a classic year but:
Top 3 Boulder problems
Big Marine
7a roof problem at Burbage
Little extra direct start (without the undercut mono as I didn't know it was there :oops: )
Top 3 Sports routes
Gwennan (Dinbren)
Mr Nice (Kilnsey)
Cordless Madness (The Cornice)
Top 3 Spankings
Scavenger (Malham) Every time I put my clips in the sun came out.
Elite Syncopations (Dinbren) Should have crushed, repeatedly failed
Powerplant (the Cornice) So many sequences wasted so much time. Next Year.
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El Poussif, Isatis. How many times have I tried this over the years? Day 9 of climbing and my Font eye was in. Did it along with L'Angle
I've done this! The highlight of my Font trips, what a good problem, looks so cool and climbs so well.
I like tomtom's story of the -14'c downhill direct tick :)
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Top none boulder probs, UK
Not really done much bouldering, nothing stands out...
Top one boulder probs, abroad
L'Atelier, Guichot. The one worthwhile tick from my April Font trip
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Daytona Wall, Cows Mouth Quarry. Really very good.
Ginny Greenteeth, Hawkcliffe. Glad I didn't try and onsight this green-fest. Excellent and undergraded.
Forgotten Wall, Almscliffe. Eliminate, squeezed in, arbitrary but I placed gear and was belayed like a proper trad route, hopefully a sign of things to come...
Top one sport routes UK
Mhoddy Dhoo, Trollers. OK it's a bit of a link-up but first sport 8 and FA so memorable.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Inbetweeners, Bradda Sport, Isle of Man. Amazing situation, exciting climbing, a bit of loose rock (but not too much), a great adventure. A Manx/Hall interpretation of sport climbing, further details here (http://nikjennings.blogspot.com/2012/01/climbing-isle-of-man-really.html)
Elios, Forada. Goes on forever, really not my style, splendid.
Starman, Forada. Fun fun fun.
Top one new route/prob put up
Can't think of anything apart from Mhoddy Dhoo, can it go in twice?
Top Spankings
Sport climbing still feels hard to me, but it is coming albeit slowly.
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Top 3 boulder problems UK
The Terrace - Burbage
Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy - Kyloe-in-the-woods
Yellow Desert Scream - St Bees
Top 3 boulder problems abroad
Didn't boulder abroad this year
Top trad routes UK
Hole of Creation - Little Orme
Totalitarian - Raven Crag, Thirlmere
Trad was put on the back burner last year. That needs to change this year.
Top 3 sport routes UK
Boat People - The Diamond
Rock Lobster - Pen Trwyn
Overnite Sensation - Malham
Top 3 route abroad
El Latido del Miedo - Terradets
Toni Kaneloni - Margalef
Hidrophobia - Montsant
Top new boulders/routes
Didn't do any new stuff this year.
Top 3 spankings
Powerplant - Cheedale Cornice. This shouldn't be hard but I fail everytime. Need to give in and try to knee bar it into submission instead of ignoring all the faggotry.
Bal de Triceps - Margalef. Too morpho!
Blitzkrieg - Raven Crag. Started well but ended fighting through and overhang of filth, aiding and doing a horizontal death traverse to ab off a lone tree.
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John M,Rock Lobster - Pen Trwyn
How? Why? I demand a 5000 word document detailing how this revolting route made it into your list John!
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Careless Torque, a few days into 2011.
China In Your Hands - the only other problem I did this year, again early Jan. Broke ankle same day falling off Superbloc, basically stopped any sort of proper climbing all year. Still fucked now.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
None.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None. Seconded a lot of the Chee Tor harder routes though, such as Autobahn, Snapdragon, Apocalypse, and Ceramic Extension.
Top three sport routes UK
Cosmopolitan 7b+
The Sea Is A Brown Paper Bag 7b+
Minos 7c+
These were the only new routes that I led, I was too injured/scared for most of the year. I did a fair bit of toproping though, I was pretty pleased to toprope Powerplant the non-kneebar way, and flash Stone The Loach.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None.
Top three new route/prob put up
None.
Top Spankings
Superbloc, although to be fair I reckon I'd have got it if I hadn't broken my ankle. Definitely my worst year ever, really dreadful.
You're going to tear british climbing a new A hole this year conker
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Can't really contribute to this really as haven't climbed much but I am going to carry one over from the back end of 2010 because it was so good:
Top three boulder probs, UK
Northern Soul, Hepburn – The best problem in the UK?
It's certainly up there and a big highlight of a great trip to the county with a good team in tow. :2thumbsup: :beer2:
Top Spankings
Brad Pit. Properly spanked me good and put an end to all my climbing aspirations of 2011. However I don't care what anyone says, I would of definately done it that go if my arm hadn't of snapped.
Also Left wall high, dropped the very end a few times just before being broken, kinda of represented a new level of fitness for me that I've never had so also very dissapointed with that one
Positive side is I'm all mended now and after a great session at the wall last night, I'm starting to get some strength back and I'm looking forward to getting out and climbing properly again (just need the 8 day week now)
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You gonna start warming up now then?
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defo, I hate it tho, it tires me out
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defo, I hate it tho, it tires me out
Well you're not doing it properly then. Its not sposed to tire you out you dick
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Top
three five boulder probs, UK
The Creme Egg Eliminate, Caley
Not To Be Taken Away, Stanage,
Jocks & Geordies, Kyloe In-The-Woods
The Horn left-hand, Caley
Si's Arete, Almscliff (tried with a very funny sequence, ended up being a hell of a fight)
Top three five trad routes/soloes UK
Mur y Niwl, Craig y Ysfa
Riders on the Storm, Stennis Head
Permutation Rib, Caley
South-West Climb, Pillar - Generally the whole experience of camping and climbing up there for a couple of days was top class.
Devil's Edge, Kyloe Out-of-the-Woods
Top three new route/prob put up
Lagopus Laughter Indirect, Lord's Seat
Top Spanking's
Wen, Gogarth - Still managed to onsight but shook like a shitting dog as I edged along the finishing traverse, having placed my last quickdraw, not knowing the crux was yet to come...
Conclusor, Ravensdale - This should really be in top routes but seeing as I had the shits and had skids in my kecks at the top on account of the near misses I'll put it down to be a spanking.
Wasted Time - Kyloe Out-of-the-Woods
Looking back at the logbook it is clear that climbing has suffered this year. Fortunately I was successful in achieving the goals that I gave precedence to so I feel vindicated. There was a bit of a hiccup in September when I declined my Masters place at the very last hour (almost literally) and then found, to my surprise, that I had no job and had better get one quick! Forgetting the first three or four months of it, 2011 has been a good year: got a good degree; passed my driving test; co-own an incredibly cute kitten; have been offered a full time, permanent job, doing exactly the kind of work that I want to do but was afraid I wouldn't be able to get into without a Masters.
:punk: :punk: :punk: :punk:
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I love this thread, psyche in a bottle.
Me too! Loving the background to why they were highlights and feeling I didn't contribute enough, so here's an annotated copy of my best:
UK :
Beauty 6C+ (Stanage)
Got up at 05:45 and drove to the peak for the day - very foggy and damp as I parked but as I finished warming up one of those windows in the mist opened and I did this lovely slab with the sun on my back and turned round to see the view revealed - perfect. Probably helped that it was my first day on grit for nearly a year.
Classic arete 5+ (Carn Brea)
Right Arete assis 5 (Carn Brea)
I grew up a few miles from here and have wandered up to the monument a few times but never really thought there was much of interest to climb - well, there's not a lot but what's there is lovely, pretty much every problem on the Aretes Boulder is as good as anything on dartmoor IMO. Just a shame about the A30 and Redruth's industrial estates below.
Abroad :
Barricades 7A (111, Font)
Our spring trip was spent largely in the Valle de la Mee - this was the best thing I did. Undercut arete to a committing slap to the very top of the boulder, just as you get high enough to make you think twice - very satisfying.
Puree de Noisettes 7B+ (Beorlots, Font)
Highlight of a very productive first day of the autumn trip, great move through the roof to compression at the lip. Went quickly too.
Ange Naif 7B+ (95.2, Font)
Last problem of the last day of the autumn trip, never been on it as in 10+ years it had always had groups sessioning it when I'd looked. We'd spent most of the day at Gros Sablons and dropped in to 95.2 on the way home. Thought I was done for the day/trip but had a look and finally a deserted problem - 15 minutes later stuck the sloper. Couldn't be more chuffed with this, wanted to do it for a very long time, fantastic for it to go so smoothly. To top it off we had three owls circling us up at Retour aux Sources as the light died half an hour later.
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co-own an incredibly cute kitten
That in itself makes up for any disappointments you may have experienced.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Rock atrocity- unexpected accent.
Leftwall high- long and tiring nice moves
King of drunk- nice problem
Top three sport routes UK
Crunchy toad- best accent
Father for justice-nice climb, dont often do sport
Top Spanking's
Clevercleaver low start got it done but took far to long!
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Not a great year but some good bits here and there. The inexorable progression of my Dupuytren’s Contracture has finally got to the point where it really hampers climbing. 2012 will be the year I get something done about it, for better or worse….
In fact a lot of the best moments have been seeing/hearing of folk repeating some of my FAs and seeming to enjoy them. Ned doing Lip of Fools and The Eigth Fold; Dobbin doing Low Rider; Dan V doing Soft Rush and Tom R doing Great Tribulation spring to mind. Something to keep me going even if these wretched hands let me down.
Top three boulder probs, UK Haven’t done loads, hence shoehorning a couple of borderline highballs in
The Pride – Lion’s Rock – In contrast to JB I did this one on my tod for with one pad. Gradually dragging it out a bit further each attempt until it was too high to drop off and then had to commit. Brilliant fun
Charlotte Rampling – Gardoms – Done above lots of pads and a patio. Took two visits and a lot of manning up before I committed to the top
Severus Snape – Back Bowden – Great fun bagging this in a stolen couple of hours whilst in the area with work
Top three boulder probs, abroad One babified week in font. Didn’t get much done
Rataplat – Isatis
Lapin Au Canard (flash)– Isatis
L Angle Jean Luc (red 25) - Sabot
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Right Wall – Cromlech – The highlight of a great week tradding with Ed Brown in N Wales. It was a toss up between this an Ordinary Route (my first route on Gogarth Main Cliff). Brilliant route, worth the wait.
Get Rich Quick – Duke’s Quarry – London Wall’s dark and sinister southern cousin. Worth the huge cleaning effort
Fun Traverse – Black Rocks – Aptly named. The best falling-off-a-ledge move in the Peak?
Top three sport routes UK
Arch Enemies – Dovedale – Good to get this done before the wet streak reached the holds on a day of foul weather mostly spent huddling in a tiny dry strip under the arch as the rain lashed down to either side
The Ogre – Chee Tor – Brilliant climbing all the way
Hidden Sign – Castel y Gwynt – What a crag! Quality routage, one of Shark’s finest.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
N/A
Top three new route/prob put up Did a fair bit of this so have greedily picked three of each genre, to make up for lack of foreign routes.
Routes:
Soft Rush – Black Rocks – Almost a boulder prob. A line that had been on my to-do list for at least ten years.
The Eighth Fold – Black Rocks – If only this had a landing it’d be the best 7b prob in the area. As it is it’s a very safe boulder prob on a rope
Occam’s Raisin – Black Rocks – Not a particularly pure line but the moves, oh the moves. I love Black Rocks and am made up to have a route on this face of it which is one of the first bits of rock I ever climbed on.
Probs:
Johnny Nyeff Nyeff – Gentleman’s Rock
Roller Bowler Currant – Filthy Crag Q – Lovely boulely crossover move in a fontlike pine wood
Bo Bridges – Reynard’s Cave. Actually my first FA of a limestone boulder prob in UK (did a couple at Castle Hill NZ)
Top three spanking's
Our Forte – Stanton Moor Quarries – E5 my arse! In all respects the most comprehensive sandbagging I think I’ve ever received. I take some consolation in the fact it took Wideboy Randall two visits to do and that was the week before the start of his big crack trip! I failled to even dog it.
The Spider – Plum Buttress – Seems like my sort of thing on paper but has shut me down on both visits now
Behemoth – Central Buttress – I’m so rubbish at this kind of thing, the type of route where to stand any chance you have to place the good gear and then sprint past loads more good placements to get to the next rest. I always end up stopping and trying to faff more gear in. For this reason I have yet to try London Wall (think I’ll need to empty a hip flask before setting off!)
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Milly, hens, work and the house haven't allowed me as much climbing time as I would've liked this year and I didn't quite get the 3 new 8's so that'll roll over.
I'm pretty pleased with what I did mange though.
A good 2012 to you all!
Top three boulder probs, UK
Hitchhikers guide to the galaxy, Kyloe. (7A+) An old favourite at an old favourite.
Underhand superextension, Almscliff. (7C+) Repeated again as part of my 'getting fit' challenge.
Spin strategy, Whitehouses. (8A) A whole dose of cunning which always makes me smile.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
No climbing abroad this year.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Shifter, Burnt crag. (E3) Climbing a great route with a great team on a foul day at a previously untried crag.
Deja vu, Kilnsey. (E5) Extreme rock repeat. Some of the best rock in the UK.
Visions in tan, Hawkcliffe. (E7) I only did a handful of trad routes so this makes it in for two categories. Gritstone sportclimbing at its best.
Top three sport routes UK
The Oak, Malham. (8b) Superbly intense. If only there were more UK sport routes like this. Shared my goes with Andy Cave and Lucinda which gave it a really nice feel good factor as we all came good in the end.
The velveteen rabbit, Trollers gill. (8b) Hard won yet excellent obscurity. If only there were more UK sport routes like this.
Frankie, Kilnsey. (7b+) and Obsession, Malham. (7b+) Little to choose between these two in terms of quality, and both proved to be involved and tough.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
No climbing abroad this year.
Top three new route/prob put up
The velveteen rabbit, Trollers gill. (8b) Took a lot of work cleaning, glueing and bolting and then an equal amount to climb. Neatly varied with a technical wall and powerful undercut to sloper to jug crux.
Visions in tan, Hawkcliffe. (E7) The name without a route finally gets placed. Seb got Gecko blaster, Grimer got Jumpey Wooller yet I get my first new E7 after the best part of twenty years of trying.
Corporal Khan (8A) Aragoncillo (7C+) People of the book (7C+) Second tour (7C+) Refraction attraction (7C+) Kenny boy low plinthless (7C+) Beat about the bush plinthless (7C+) Hawala (7C) and Hambali (7C), Whitehouses. Still trying though....
Top Spanking's
My project at Kilnsey due to congestion, atmosphere, unfitness and the crux hold getting glued up.
Whitehouses as usual.
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Rock atrocity- unexpected accent.
"Rawk Atrassidy" ;)
I love this thread, too. Makes me feel like a bit of an underacheiver but that's good for the psyche as well! Sad to read of all the injuries people have suffered from- hopefully y'all will have better 2012s in that respect.
None of mine are anything to crow about difficulty-wise but they were all great experiences.
Bouldering:
Mistral at Chasecliffe is the only one that sticks out. One of my first trips out on my own after passing my driving test. Felt great to discover this crag, although my return visits were characterised by frustration rather than fulfillment. I must go back soon.
Trad:
John Peel, Dovedale: nasty greasy conditions, terrible route-reading and tactics made me feel like I was going to fail on this (doing the wrong start didn't help), then it just all clicked on the last third. Had a great view of my second hating it in the dimming light from the belay. Only just made it back to the car park before it was locked up for the night.
Eagle Front, Eagle Crag, Buttermere: similar experience to Will's at Pillar I imagine; great long mountain route the highlight of a fantastic couple of days spent camped up there. Did it as a three and it took ages. I got the best two pitches.
Army Dreamers, St. Govan's: had four days in Pembroke, all of which featured me leading classics spoilt by crap drizzly weather. On the last day we woke to beautiful sunshine, packed up and went to St. Govan's where I cruised this in front of a crowd of applauding grannies. Spent the remaining time 'til the drive back on the beach leering at girls in bikinis. 8)
Sport:
Turkish Standard, Geyikbeyiri, Antalya: just one of many great routes I did out there. Stands out as my first onsight at the grade.
Es Sahhaf, Geyikbeyiri, Antalya
Flowstone Shuffle, Penmaen Head: The first truly good sport route I ever did.
Spankings:
Some pocketed 6c slab thing in Geyikbeyiri. Totally overgraded. Must have lost holds or something. ;)
Pretty much every grit boulder problem over 6B I've tried...
I plan to have a much more impressive report for 2012 ( in the spankings section at least). Can't promise it'll measure up to most people's 'pretty poor years' though!
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Top three boulder probs, UK
I’ve had some really fun days out but now individual problems have really shone out above the enjoyment of the entire day spent climbing with friends.
Having said that, 2012 has started well with a day at Stanage (as were all of UKB as far as I could tell) and Cresent Arete Right Hand did really stand out. Fantastic, but will have to be added to the Best of 2012 in 12 months time……
Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A
Top four* trad routes/soloes UK
*I’ve snuck a winter route in.
Grey Slab Combo – after 7 pitches on climbing through gradually thinning crowds up from the base of the Idwal slabs, finding myself run-out on a lovely bold slab, feeling nervous and unable to think of anything but the picture in classic rock of a man, in a near identical position on the route, stood resplendent in tweed and big boots and smoking a pipe looking every inch the relaxed country gent. Part of a classic rock weekend as my last trip as a single man with my best man, the lad I leant to climb with.
Wuthering – First airy trad route of the year. Not hard but really enjoyed the exposure and managed to keep a cool head. One I’ve always looked at and walked on by but a word of encouragement and a vote of confidence form my belayer meant I actually stopped below it and tied in (the definite crux)
San Melas/Wings of Unreason – The peak of my trad performance and the culmination of a few after work trips to the Roaches building confidence and a good partnership
Hadrian’s Wall Direct – My first proper V. Did the bulk of the leading, got scared, thought we done all the hard bits and started the romp to the top only to find there was a wall barring our access for the summit, managed to run out of ropes on 60s, topped out in a white out, did all the nav to get us off, walked down in the dark, missed the pub for food – a proper day out! (Scottish Winter I know but still essentially trad….)
Top three sport routes UK
No real sport this year to talk about despite my aims. I enjoyed a day at Masson Lees but imagine putting that down might get me a UKB ban.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
N/A
Top Spanking's
Peapod – Wall strength and over confidence (it’s only HVS…..) found me stranded above the pod trying to get established on the ledge. Panic and poor decision making led to very pumped arms, a tumble and a battered ego. Got back on and found it fine with a little thought and respect.
From the above it seems that it’s being on the end of a rope that floats my boat the most. The main things I’ve found is that encouraging and supportive friends have lead me to push myself that bit harder, a shame I didn’t push on! I blame the new wife…..
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Top
3 1 boulder problems UK
I guess from my only trip bouldering in 2011 it'll have to be Razor Roof at Cratcliffe. Took me about ten or so goes, and I was made up when I topped out (elegantly like a rhinoceros).
Top 3 trad routes UK
Anything from our Fairhead trip in July. Week of perfect (if a little windy) sunny weather. I guess standout routes were Conchubair, Cu Chullain, Hurricane, Sandpiper and Burn Up. If I had to pick though...
Hurricane. What a monster of a first pitch 8)
Any of the HVS's on the Wen Slab. We did The Concrete Chimney and Wen while waiting for our ferry to Ireland for the Fairhead trip. Which was nice... Although I think I enjoyed Dream the most. We abbed in late in the day and topped out at about half 9, before driving home. A fine end to a weekend jaunt to North Wales.
Great Central Route at Chee Tor. Hard (for me). Scared. Thought I would piss it as I'd just done one of the E3's with very little bother. Oh no! Really enjoyed the climbing up to the break. Above that it's a battle and a half. Kicked some of my gear out, gibbered a bit. Dug in and topped out absolutely drained. Retrospectively great.
Top 3 sport routes UK
Bream In Black at Cheedale - Not an amazing route but the quickest I've ever done 7a (out of my 3!). Fell off low down on my o/s go. Dogged the rest putting the clips in, and then did it next go.
Contusion at Pen Trwyn - Brilliant. Got Miss Arms to put the clips in and tell me where the hard bits were, then flashed it. Brilliant move right at the top when you're knackered!
Great Balls of Fire on the Colossus Wall (I know, I know but I've run out of space in the trad bit and there are definitely bolts on it!) - I backed off this low down a while ago when I wasn't going very well. We had about an hour before the car park locked and I was feeling like I was going well so got on with it. A couple of nervous moments in the first couple of runouts but I had to get cracking because of the car. Got it done, Miss Arms seconded in fine (fast) style. Ran back to the car park at Vivian with about a minute and a half to spare, sweaty and exhausted but really really happy.
Top 3 routes abroad
I've been to Buoux and Verdon this year so three just isn't enough but I'll give it a go.
Agorgeomocles at The Pichenbule abseil - 4 pitch 6c+. Absolutely brilliant. Did this as a treat on our last day in the gorge and really enjoyed it. Gave Miss Arms the 6c+ pitch through genorosity and watched her fall off a vicious, crimpy, pockety sequence and then suprised myself by flashing it! She then had the pleasure of watching me fall off the steep 6c pitch into miles of air and then flashed it. Great day, we both pushed the boat out and were suitably rewarded.
A Tout Coeur at Le Dalles Grises - 7 pitch 6b+. First route in the gorge this year. Suprised myself by onsighting the 6b+ pitch with relative ease. Then the storm hit. Miss Arms ran the top pitches together in a monster hailstorm (which hit every day at 3pm while we were there) off line on a 6a instead of the 5/4 in the gully! Brilliant fun. Windproofs aren't waterproof!
Alambic Sortie Sud at TCF Buoux - 6b. Brilliant pockety climbing. Fell off on the onsight at the crux, put the rest off the clips in and made the pant-wetting mantle to the chains. Miss Arms flashed it after threatening to bottle it at the top. "I don't want to, I'm too scared." After a bit of shouting at her and with her confidence bolstered she made the move easily. I got it next go. I love Buoux even though it's really hard.
Top new routes
Not sure if they're new but not seen them recorded anywhere. At Cala S'Algar, Mallorca (will have to check this as I don't have the photos to hand) just North of Porto Colom on a rest day we went exploring a big sea cliff and did a really long sea(ish) level traverse that culminated in a 35/40m VS(ish) climb out. We also did a couple of bouldery routes out near the start of the traverse. I must remember to pop these on UKC. It's fun for a rest day but obviously no Diablo/Barques.
Top 3 spankings
Axle Attack at Pen Trwyn - Suprised myself by getting all the moves on this. First go utterly dogged the shit out of it and didn't reach the belay. Second go linked all the moves with one rest (at the groove). Haven't got back on but I reckon it'll go! This is a top spanking because I enjoyed it rather that getting totally shut down.
Anything on the Egg boulder at Cratcliffe - What the fuck. Anything above V1 is impossible. I don't understand. It all looks so easy. I may have spat the dummy a bit and declared it rubbish!
Rubicon Wall at Rubicon Wall at Rubicon Wall at etc. - Done all the moves on all my goes. Can't link it. Get upside down, strength goes, fall off. Repeat. Miss Arms did it second go. Bitch.
Best. Thread. Ever. Psyched out of my tiny little mind at work!
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off line on a 6a instead of the 5/4 in the gully! Brilliant fun. Windproofs aren't waterproof!
I'm yet to hear of anyone not going off-line on this, even after being told by a mate we still managed. Turns out the guidebook is wrong, quell surprise.
Top three boulder probs, UK
NA / Can't think of any, I did a lot of ticking of odd problems here and there from a slightly esoteric list but can't remember which side of near year that fell.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
N/A - this seems to highlight a massive shift that I've had over the past few years.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Tricky one this, having done a LOT of fairly easy/middling trad, mostly with 3*'s...
Lyme Crime w/ Phrantic Phinish - I'd wanted to do this for years as you see the jugs every time you ab off. It didn't disappoint.
Regent St.
Flaky Wall / Supersonic Combo - Got lost on flaky wall and ended up on Supersonic.
Top three sport routes UK
Monsterosity - This kickstarted my sport season with a lesson in tenacity. Made more memorable by skipping all of the clips between the flake and the upper lip.
K3 - felt absolutely desperate for the first session but yielded quickly thereafter. It made me very aware of how crucial minute body-position beta can be.
Devonshire Arms - I was told this was nails and couldn't touch the lower crux or the upper RP crux and then it all suddenly fell together (and it was all down to my feet for a change).
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Les Rideuax du Gwendal - I can't see climbing getting much better than this; fantastic positions (sandwich sat on the tombstone), contrasting pitches, long etc. Made even better by the fact its pretty much at Nats limit and she was giving it her all. We also managed to climb it extremely quickly.
L'ange en decomposition - A mildly terrifying position, with climbing that just isn't my forte.
Moskitos - expected this to be a tottering pile of choss and I wasn't exactly happy about sidestepping the main event nearby however it was ridiculously memorable.
Top three new route/prob put up
Ol' Man River, Froggatt - sadly a flawed problem
Top Spanking's
The Rasp - We went to Stanage for something else one evening to find it absolutely heaving. Clearly I wasn't going to get on my route of choice so we nipped over to Higgar. No time left for a warm-up before jumping on and the inevitable pump that followed. I just climbed like a bag of shit that evening.
A fantastic year really with a lot more time spent on rock than any previously. Certainly its been the year I've most enjoyed climbing thus far. Here's hoping 2012 will be as good.
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Top 3 boulder problems UK
Ironstone Edge - Corby's
Little X Direct - Corby's
Pimples - Rhue blocks (i think that's what it's called)
Top 3 boulder problems abroad
Didn't boulder abroad this year
Top trad routes UK
Not much done this year, but had a pleasant day out at Glen Clova doing all the easy routes on NE Crag again.
Also a good day highballing / soloing at Corby's
Top 3 sport routes UK
I clipped not a bolt
Top 3 route abroad
Didn't go abroad this year.
Top new boulders/routes
Nice new non tidal one mover down at Muchalls, created by a bit of patioing when all the tidal stuff was piss wet through.
Two halves of traverse at new spot. both great probs in their own right.
New prob on the pinnacle at the new spot.
Top 3 spankings
Linking two halves of the new traverse. By the time a viable sequence had been worked out my arms went to putty, and it has been seeping since.
Numerous waves have also spanked me this year.
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Top three boulder probs, UK
Absolutely nothing, just board myself doing laps on Ben's roof in the middle of winter.
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Abroad!! would rather be on a beach or a slope.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Whats that then?
Top three sport routes UK
Aberation on Two Tier, not my sort of thing really, standing on feet but I surprised myself and really enjoyed it.
Zeke the Freak. 8b in December doesn't get much better.
Top three routes abroad
I wish
Top three new route/prob put up
Not a bad year on this front. First off was an extention start to Ben's Roof that was good training for a Cornice project.
Gran Techo (big/great roof) Fired this one off as soon as it dried out.
K5. You may all think this is a daft link-up but where else locally can you get a euro-enduro style pitch with blazing forarms. Fantastic! Also a good one to try on a busy day with all the clips insitu. "Get out my fucking way I'm coming through"
Clematis. A bit different to Bricktop, more of a recovery test. At the junction with Nemesis two tricky boulder problams await with good rests between. I actually really enjoyed redpoints on this.
Falling of just meant I could enjoy some more, no pressure.
Top Spanking's
I am really good at this.
The Terrace. Burbage This is not fun anymore.
Having just done Zeke you would think that a route just to its left 2 grades easier would be a formality. I really hate this route and don't want to go on it ever again.
Minos. Two Tier. I hate this route too.
Devonshire arms. I don,t hate it. I must be doing something wrong. Dammit!
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Top
three ten boulder probs, UK
Special Cases, Stone
Tourniquet, Kentmere
Bonnie, Cave
Supercede, Hartlands
Jason's Roof, Crookrise
Sabotage, Dumbarton
Zoo York, Caley
Colorado Dreaming, Tintagel
Corridors of Power, Hartlands
Scary Canary, Caley
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Sofa Surfer, Magic
Minsex, Magic
Small Jack
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
One of them E3 things at Reecastle (the good one were you can stick loads of those metal things in it)
Top roped Torture Board (Gave it a long think about leading it but couldnt get the memory of landing of Ben's face from 10 Metres out of my head)
Topped out the crack at the Bowderstone (Breaking a hand hold and foot hold in the process)
Top three sport routes UK: Only have one day to go on
Subculture, Kilnsey
Wizzy wiggle (or summit), Kilnsey
Comedy, Kilnsey (that route had a right good laugh at me falling of the top jug on flash, gutted)
Top three routes abroad
People go abroad to go route climbing??? Mad!
Top three new route/prob put up
Ha, Anyone want to here what stupid link ups I did on the stone, Nope didnt think so.
Top Spanking's
Massively Shit, Magic Wood (Why the foook did I bother trying this shit shit line)
Most sessions with Ben Freeman/ Katz on the Grit.
Allowing Dave Jones on my board was a bad idea. Be warned.
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One of them E3 things at Reecastle (the good one were you can stick loads of those metal things in it)
White Noise?
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Top Spanking's
Wen, Gogarth - Still managed to onsight but shook like a shitting dog as I edged along the finishing traverse, having placed my last quickdraw, not knowing the crux was yet to come...
At least you had the sense to read - and remember - the guidebook and go the right way instead of carrying on straight up the crack like I did. I don't remember finding it that traumatic, but parties in the line of fire below were less than impressed. (NB this wasn't 2011, more like 1981 iirc)
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Top Spanking's
Wen, Gogarth - Still managed to onsight but shook like a shitting dog as I edged along the finishing traverse, having placed my last quickdraw, not knowing the crux was yet to come...
I thought the crux was the bottom of the first pitch. Of course, the tide had just gone out and it was slimy as buggery. Worst bit for my partner however was the final traverse, I'd been so relieved to be standing on the ledge that I forgot to put a bit of gear in for him and he had to second it with 20ft of rope out *oops!*
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Top 3 boulder problems France
I've done hundreds of problems all with exotic names such as 'Blue 17', I must have Alzheimer's 'cos nothing sticks in my mind except:-
Consuelo 5 - Buthier Piscine (lovely weather in early spring)
Quelle Conque - 5+ Petit Bois
Doing an entire Blue circuit (Restant do longue rocher) in a heat wave.
Top 3 boulder problems UK
First time on Grit in 10 years everything was fantastic, but had lots of kids/ dogs in tow, so just did loads of easy stuff. The only things I remember exactly were -
Tiny Slab left-hand (In the sun in August, but the only thing I was allowed to spend any time on)
The traverse of the slab on that large block at the bottom of Robin hood stride 5C. The hardest thing I climbed in the U.K.
Top 3 spankings (bottling off)
This list could go on forever
Joe's arete - I was tired, I needed a spotter...
Science friction - I got lost, it was misty, I forgot to cut my toenails, My feet hurt in my 'whites'.
Maurice gratton - Every time I visit Canche aux mercier I have a play on this problem, this year was no different; I failed to leave the ground!
And as slackers has mentioned everything on the Egg boulder at Cratcliffe.
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Top 3 Boulder Problems
Chaos Emerald Crack - Just Fantaby-tosy!! Brilliant, smooth rock, slightly Highball, and insecure as f*ck.
Parisella's Original - First proper tick in the Cave and I bleedin' flashed it! Not really V6?
Dog Shooter - Lovely moves!
Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad
Only bouldered in Squamish and only really did the following 3 V4's still they are all excellent!
Sloppy Poppy - Thrutchy top-out, I only just made it!
Easy in an Easy Chair - Brilliant once you get it all right.
Superfly - A frustrating move but hey its close to the road and has a flat landing!
Top 3 UK Trad Routes
Capital Punishment - Hardest E4 I've done I think, just awesome if a little scary...
Glass Arete - Really good moves, just made me :2thumbsup:
The Butcher - greasy at the bottom into the wet jug made me doubt my abilities but I did it, was fairly psyched upon topping out.
Top 3 Foreign Routes
Squamish Buttress - Brilliant crux pitch very reminiscent of the Grasper at Bwlch y Moch
La Novia - Hardest onsight to date, the bolt spacing just made it more fun! Perfect balance of aggression and focus.
Seasoned in the Sun - Felt way harder than exasperator so it gets a better wrap, made it by the skin of my teeth!
Top 3 UK Sport Routes
Rub-A-Dub-Dub - Felt hard and scary 1st go up but brilliant clipping the chains on the RP. Was interesting getting out of the Diamond on arms freshly squeezed on the successful attempt!
Julio Juvenito - Nearly onsight.
Barely and UK sport this year, only a few 6as not worth mentioning.
Top 3 Spankings
Stroll On - thought it would be a path after trip to El chorro - :no: Fell quite a few times - that crux is HARD!
Cream - Just brilliant being up on that headwall! Fell off the crux move, wrong size cam and not enough commitment! Lowered and seconded.
Pilier Dorada - Really wanted to do this as I want to get good at wall climbing! Fell once, rested and went to the top. Didn't RP, not sure why.
However, I started to look on spankings in a different light this year - simply as further preperation to make it so that one day you can climb that style/grade/whatever... a turning point for me for sure.
2011 the best year yet (I keep saying that), wonder what 2012 will hold...
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Only bouldered in Squamish and only really did the following 3 V4's still they are all excellent!
Sloppy Poppy - Thrutchy top-out, I only just made it!
Easy in an Easy Chair - Brilliant once you get it all right.
Superfly - A frustrating move but hey its close to the road and has a flat landing!
I only bouldered for a day there and did the same 3.
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Like Adam said, this thread is ace. Pure psyche and good vibes, frothing for 2012!! :bounce:
Top 3 UK Boulder problems:
"Hard Arete", 5 Clouds: 7a+: bit of a Nemesis from years past
"Dry Wit in a wet country", RH stride: 7a+, psyched to get the flash on this
"Bashers Problem", 6c+?, Tor: Good party crew at the crag, psyched for more limestone bouldering in 2012
Top 3 Abroad Boulders:
"Rataplat", Isatis, 7b: Amazing scenes on Adam's stag do.
"Big Jim", Petis Bois, 6c: The perfect boulder problem? Good height and committing last move.
"Lapin ou Canard", Isatis, 7a: Again good team stag do scenes.
Top 3 Trad/ solos UK:
"Clipperty Clop Clipperty Clop Clipperty Clop" E7, Ramshaw: Very happy with this one, been unfinished business for many years, get in!! :pissed:
"Yellow Pearls" E5, Pembroke: Foolishly decided to attempt this on one of the hottest days of the year, on the sunniest piece of rock in the UK, just managed to scrape my way up it and nearly melted in the process when I realised I was in deck out position!! :'(
"Primeval" E5, Pen Trywn: The best DWS in the UK???? It was soaking so I send westie in as sacrificial lamb, once a sequence was unlocked and splashdown had occurred I nipped in for a cheeky flash. Much easier to psyche up for this without the hangover from hell and a high tide! :alky:
Top 3 UK Sport:
"Thormens Moth" 8a, Thors Cave: Just wow! Not enough routes like this in the UK, this one is really special. :2thumbsup:
"Powerplant" 8a, Cornice: Psyched to get this put to bed, after a lot of faff deciphering sequence last summer, finally decided on one and on first redpoint found myself, rather shocked, at the last hard move. a few goes later it was smashed!
"The Prow (p1 + 2)" 7c+, the tor: Another amazing long one where euro fitness actually comes in handy. Must have done this route about 5 times! Bitter about the full version and the 30 footer I took from round the lip, snatching defeat from the jaws of victory! It doesn't stand a chance in 2012!!
Top 3 Euro Sport:
Lots to choose from here, so these 3 must be really special!!
Priapos 7c, Kalymnos: Managed to get back to 7c onsights and flashes in 2011 and was glad I did as this one was beyond belief on the last day of an awesome trip. Can't believe how pumped you can get on a route with sit down rests, it just goes on and on!!
Vagabond D'occident 7c, Ceuse: Unfinished business put to bed, great route but Ceuse isn't the place for a 4 day trip, emotional. Good team campsite scenes though.
Hugo 7c+, Misja Pec: Great start to the year with an awesome crew. You've definitely know you're good mates with 3 other people if you can spend 10 days with them staying in a room the size of my bathroom. Slovenia is ace!!
Top Spankings:
Boat People 7c, The Diamond: 2 visits, both greasy as sin!! This route just won't let me climb it!!
K3, 8a+, Cornice: So psyched for this route but it's gonna take some weakness working!!
Font in general: Not ideal after a 10 days sport climbing trip but still, i's always hard work. Another weakness worker!! :slap:
All the best for 2012 everyone, lets have plenty more waddage in this thread this time next year, get psyched!!
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Top 3 Boulder Problems
The Keel - spent all day on it, ended up with taking my right shoe off and taping up my toes. Cranking on the chip was amazing, felt like a culmination of all the training I did with my leg in a cast.
Bentley's Gonna Sort You Out - Was supposed to be in some whack comp but conditions were mint so I claimed my finger was too fucked to compete and went to Stanage. Warmed up ad down by soloing most of the VSs above the Plantation, although I felt a bit bad about running laps around the team having an epic on a VDiff, it was a pretty magical day.
Look At Me!, Cratcliffe - thought I'd have a play on this in the dark without a pad. Ended up wedged at the top of the chimney shouting for help, a pad, some chalk, and my headtorch....
Top 3 UK Trad Routes
Life Assurance - had decided not to try it, then Jacob said 'would you like to go first on this one' and the next thing I knew I was standing on a couple of pebbles and eyeballing the top jug. 2nd E6 onsight, although certainly my last bold E6.
Elegy - 1st E-grade route post foot breakage. Felt harder and scarier than Life Assurance!
Interrogation - amazing route, climbing with (very nice) strangers, had to fight a lot harder than I expected!
Top 3 Foreign Routes
All in Chorro...
Trainspotting - 1st 8a. Felt like a hero skipping the clip mid crux and committing to the big slap right at the top of the cliff! Climbed in snakeskin lycra for additional points.
Muchachito Bombo Infierno (6 pitch thing) - 1st day on it I failed to complete a single pitch clean, the exposure started getting to me and I climbed incredibly badly and even dropped a quickdraw. Really glad I came back to it to redpoint the 3rd pitch, which is the most amazing bit of climbing I've ever come across - board style moves leading to a sodding enourmous stalactite and associated weirdness, all with eagles flying underneath you.
Eye of the Storm - it's a massive horizontal roof on masive jugs and I DID A BAT HANG....
Top 3 UK Sport Routes
Vicious Delicious, Torbryan - still my hardest onsight to date, totally unexpected as it was immediately after a 3 month layoff.
Rampage/Hot Lava connection, Cheesewring - 'only' 7a+ but it did feature a 6 foot sideways dyno to avoid a wet streak, got benighted and had to RP it in the dark by headtorch to get my clips back!
Pride Evans Locker, Cheddar - got a friend to slap me pre RP to get the endorphins going.....
Only New Route
Hell Bent For Drag, Cheddar. Daft linkups are where it's at. Really pleased to get Draggin' Along and this done in the same day, felt like I was almost keeping up with Jacob!
Top 4 Spankings
Master's Edge - I think hospitalisation is the ultimate spanking.
Mexican Wave, Swanage - 7a+ and I cannot do the crux move.
Baby Chimes - have done all the moves, but can't do all the moves in the same session.
Too Hard For Mark Leach - too hard for me, more like. think I did manage the footless version though!
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Top Spanking's
Wen, Gogarth - Still managed to onsight but shook like a shitting dog as I edged along the finishing traverse, having placed my last quickdraw, not knowing the crux was yet to come...
I thought the crux was the bottom of the first pitch. Of course, the tide had just gone out and it was slimy as buggery. Worst bit for my partner however was the final traverse, I'd been so relieved to be standing on the ledge that I forgot to put a bit of gear in for him and he had to second it with 20ft of rope out *oops!*
Yes! I did the same thing to my partner! I found the crux of the whole route to be the step across to and then the final mantle onto the belay ledge. Not really any holds on the wall behind the ledge and I ended up with both feet and both hands on the ledge in a "frog" position which felt very "teetery"!
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I dunno, I seem to remember some small holds just 'appearing' and I did the mantle in a kind of terrified daze. Brilliant route!
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Just seen this...
Top three boulder probs, UK
Been a slim year bouldering-wise so:
Pock Block Slab 7A - Not a great problem but tried it for years and was good to finally get the tick.
Pocket Eliminate 7A on the Trackside boulder - Again tried it loads so good to clear it off the list.
Curbar Quarry 7A (got a name but dunno it) - Did it 2nd try thinking "this is hard for 6A" :-[
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Did a couple of 7A's and a great 6c at Drei Zinnen - Can't remember the names.
Top three sport routes UK
Now we're talking....
Indecent Exposure Direct - Big tick this as it was me first F7c and first route at the Tor... Still makes me smile.
Direct Flight @ Kilnsey - Really should have done this first go but did it 1st RP - Brilliant!
Cairn @ Harpur Hill - Possibly the best F7a in the country!!!!! - Enjoyed it so much I did it twice.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Batman @ Forada - Bit of a seige this one but really stands out as it's so far from my favoured style of climbing (i.e. fucking steep) and was my first non UK F7b+.
Onsighted a great F6c+ at the same crag - Name eludes me right now.
Some good warmups...
Top Spanking's
The Sheep - Fell off the top too many times, never 6c+ - bastard!
Body Machine Direct - Thought I'd get on this (again) after my success with Indecent - Got spanked :spank:
Stopping Training and instantly getting injured - There's a lesson here I feel!
Good to write this all down - Some good bits some ok bits some bits I need to work on... Don't think I actually did a Trad route all year and was really a bit shit in Font. Did tick my hardest sport routes though :clap2:, hoping to expand on that this year.
Hopefully next year's one of these should see some steady sport progress, maybe a trad route or 2 and a not too serious decline in bouldering ability.
:D
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maybe a trad route or 2
:lol: :beer2: :lol: :2thumbsup: :lol:
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Stop stalking me :ras:
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I've replied to nuff other people in this thread you neurotic choad. It's just none of them came up with such outlandish ideas as the one I quoted!!
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Internet stalker :jab:
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Running a bit low on SYKE despite the weather at the moment but reading through these has been good and so I thought I'd indulge myself.....
Top three boulder probs, UK
tierdrop - had failed on the top slap previously but no messing this year! perfect micro climb
Powerhumps hard way, Tor - basic but satisfying, hopeful for staminahumps 2012
Desparete, Burbage - got it all really. Moves, holds, line, height
Top three boulder probs, abroad
stuff I flashed in The Cave on a day feeling relatively strong is the best I can do here. It's good in there though.
Top three(/4) trad routes/soloes UK
Narcissus, Froggatt - Ground upping this same day as doing Downhill Racer was quite a dream day really as I've wanted to do them for years and they didn't disappoint. In good company too.
Jasmine, Bamford - great feeling when things come together on grit
The Axe, cloggy - Another one I've wanted to try for yonks. A bit looser and more rattly than expected but a quality experience.
Top three sport routes UK
only had ~2 days sport this year due to injury so to bring out the barrel scraper: Mesmerized, The Main Motor Mile & Much Monkey Magic at Craigy Biceps (cow dale) were all pretty decent....
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
came by a more or less free trip to the Algarve so had a decent couple of DWS days. White dove at Ingrinia was the highlight.
Top three new route/prob put up
Not sure it counts but added a sit to Grand Master Flash at Scugdale (might have been done before). Nothing much else to report but tried some other NYMoors little projects that I hope to get done this year.
Top Spanking's
top spot definitely goes to Ben's Roof, Tor. Total punter tactics on this. Fell off on the cross through move 20+(?) times over far too many sessions. Then on my last session of the season before I had to go away for work, I realised I'd been crossing under my left which makes the move about 40% harder than crossing over but was too tired to finish it by then! :slap: My knee still feels a bit bruised even now I tried it so much.
White wand, stanage. Was all set and keen to onsight this beauty but lack of flex and grit vision saw me barn door off the crux. Went next go once I'd been shown the way but it was still a spanking really.
Various other things on Peak Lime like powerband, out of my tree, it's a travesty, paint it black, the list's fairly endless.....
Hopeful for a good year this year with less injury, harder boulders and a lot more trad. All the best :beer2:
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I'm jealous of your Grand Master Flash tick. I always fancied it, but was told it was a bit snappy up top, so never built up the courage to push through the top wall.
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Top 3 Boulder Problems
Hardly bouldered through 2011. Voie Normale at Craig y Llyn was nice to do after xmas day.
Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad
Did crescent arete on a weekend holiday to Englandshire, it was very good :-\
Top 3 UK Trad Routes
Are You Having It About the Woolly Mammouths (winter) - the most ephemeral route I've done. I'd watched this nearly form over many years but the Welsh winter never stayed cold enough for long enough for the hanging ice dagger to form properly. Then for two days only over xmas day and boxing day 2010 the ice dagger came into condition. Afterwards it was melting rapidly as we departed the crag. A special route because it felt like a very satisfying journey from imagination to reality, get in! (not 2011 but close enough..)
The Moon, Yellow Walls. Luverly start to the rock season in sunny spring warmth.
Really enjoyed True Grip on the Cromlech.
Didn't really get into the tradding last year but what I did was all good.
Top 3 Foreign Routes
Clarion Call? (I need a trip to Spain soon).
Top 3 UK Sport Routes
Alberta Rose - the reward for spending 10 days putting in a new handline across Detritus Wall whilst scring myself silly. How ironic that probably the two best N.Wales sport routes of their grade are in such a location.
Never Get Out of the Boat - the rumours were true, this is awesome! Only my second 8a and getting it first redders made it feel like I'm doing all the right things to progress.
Ocean of Emotion - didn't get it clean and haven't been back yet; but after hearing and reading about this infamous route for so long and then finally getting on it in the lovely autumn sunshine to discover it's as good as it comes for UK sport, was a good experience.
Top 5 Spankings
The Diamond - spending 7 days accessing and equipping a route on the largest wall until the realisation hit that it wasn't going to happen.
The Diamond - countless days equipping the extension to the handline when I'd rather have been working a proj (except ...see above).
Don't Die of Ignorance (Ben Nevis) - spent two weekends driving North, walking up the Ben, making it through the 'cut loose and kung fu kick' crux moves only to discover both times that the ice which is required to making the next moves wasn't there.
Clogwyn Du winter projects 1 and 2 - six attempts now to break through the roof on project 1, with lots of energy expended but its going to go and its going to be mint. Miles P bailing off from a half-in warthog near the top of project 2, below more hard climbing after we thought we were going to do it.
Red Meat - hanging in the blazing sun cleaning off a thousand years of accumulated bird shit on the mid-height ledge with a water bottle, fairy liquid and a wire brush. Pigeon fancier's lung for supper.
Actually I can think of many more proper spankings than sends..
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Are You Having It About the Woolly Mammouths (winter) - the most ephemeral route I've done. I'd watched this nearly form over many years but the Welsh winter never stayed cold enough for long enough for the hanging ice dagger to form properly. Then for two days only over xmas day and boxing day 2010 the ice dagger came into condition. Afterwards it was melting rapidly as we departed the crag. A special route because it felt like a very satisfying journey from imagination to reality, get in! (not 2011 but close enough..)
I know that feeling only too well. Not quite of the same significance as an ascent, but some coastal ice has almost formed up 10 mins walk from the house several times but never got thick enough to climb. I walked down every couple of days over that cold period and saw it geting thicker and thicker, until on boxing day it got as good as it gets and was forecast to get a lot warmer. I had phoned around and managed to find some mates who were at home and up for having a shot. Unfortunately I was denied the lead as I got a vomiting bug on Xmas day and felt kitten weak, but was stoked to see it climbed and second it.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/163482_483056396086_689146086_6471167_8197775_n.jpg)
I know it looks a bit short to actually bother leading, but we had no idea of ice quality, and were glad of rope on the top out from the ice onto unfrozen steep grass that had been insulated by snow.
So have now done trad routes, bouldering, DWS and ice climbing in walking distance of the house. Just need to bolt a couple of routes....
(apologies for the off topic posting).
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Brilliant! A very 'British' thing to do ;D