UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: ashtond6 on February 08, 2017, 05:48:55 pm
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Off to Indian Creek in April & looking for some specific crack ideas in the Peak District,
I am off the back of a long finger injury and am now building back up to fitness (I have 2 months). Before the injury I was climbing around 7b
I am hoping to attempt some of the 5.12's (Way Rambo, Coyne, Sig Sauer, Swedin Ringle) which generally involve wide fingers (purple camalots) or sustained ringlocks (green camalots).
Red camalot (thin hands) practice is probably also helpful
Cannot build a crack machine.
So far I have:
-Shunt insanity climbed as a crack (rumored to be 5.12+/13-)
-Lap a boulder crack at Curbar near Ultimate Gritstone (however its not really steep enough)
-Deadhang any ringlocks I find
Any help would be greatly appreciated. :)
(No interest in Zippatrocity (not specific enough))
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At the risk of being obvious, go to Millstone?
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At the risk of being obvious, go to Millstone?
If you can think of anything hard enough there in those sizes, please let me know
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Coyne crack you can just layback the hard part if you're brave/stupid. No need to practice ringlocks or fingerstacking. For the other, yeah, practicing lock offs on ringlocks, and thin hands if you can find it. Thin hands is shockingly pumpy when you haven't done it for a few years.
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I'm afraid I don't really know, not my list and I haven't done many of the harder ones but maybe you can get some ideas from this:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=643
Would London Wall fit the bill, or is that too hard? And I'm not sure why this isn't on the list, seems to fit the bill:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=18897
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Would London Wall fit the bill, or is that too hard? And I'm not sure why this isn't on the list, seems to fit the bill:
London Wall is more like pocket pulling than crack climbing. I haven't been to Indian Creek but would be surprised if LW is that similar. It wouldn't be too hard for the OP's needs though.
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Of that ukc list, the obvious contendors are bob hope and manfled digit. I have done neither so im not sure on exact size though...
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There aren't many cracks that size in the peak I'm aware of other than Insanity. As Andy says, peg cracks are pocket climbing - no more specific than limestone - still good for a general pump. You might find the odd move on Chequer's Crack, Gates of Mordor, or Tufted Crack (Ilkley) if you studiously ignore face holds and laybacking. Behemoth W-C-J reportedly has a rattley fingers section but I've not done it. I thought Bob Hope was regular sized fingers. Are there any other candidates in Lancs.?
I'd focus on getting the relevant fitness without injuring yourself doing ludicrous things (Power Clubs passim), enjoy the spanking for the first week, then get on the harder stuff as you acclimatise.
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There aren't many cracks that size in the peak I'm aware of other than Insanity. As Andy says, peg cracks are pocket climbing - no more specific than limestone - still good for a general pump. You might find the odd move on Chequer's Crack, Gates of Mordor, or Tufted Crack (Ilkley) if you studiously ignore face holds and laybacking. Behemoth W-C-J reportedly has a rattley fingers section but I've not done it. I thought Bob Hope was regular sized fingers. Are there any other candidates in Lancs.?
I'd focus on getting the relevant fitness without injuring yourself doing ludicrous things (Power Clubs passim), enjoy the spanking for the first week, then get on the harder stuff as you acclimatise.
Thanks Duncan! Insanity it is!
Good job I've got three weeks then
I find ringlock technique easier than rattly fingers, just unsure on the stamina side of it.
Did Mordor as straight in ringlocks rather than the normal way of thinking hands with feet, long move to fingers
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I thought the Swedin Ringle was desperate. I peeled off the skin at the bottom of my thumb nail doing ring locks on it. Got nowhere close.
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I find ringlock technique easier than rattly fingers, just unsure on the stamina side of it.
Because in splitters ringlocks are easier than rattly fingers, and the feet are usually better as well. I have really big toes, so in a true splitter I sometimes have to pegboard ringlocks, still easier than loose fingers (which always require pegboarding)
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I thought the Swedin Ringle was desperate. I peeled off the skin at the bottom of my thumb nail doing ring locks on it. Got nowhere close.
I near Coyne Crack & Way Rambo are easier, any other recommendations with ring sections??
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Coyne crack is the easiest of those you mentioned. The safest of the easy ways to climb it is shuffling with ringlocks on the top left hand and laybacking with right bottom hand, leaning to the left. That way you can look in on the crack when placing gear.
Way Rambo has a short section of ringlocks, about 2 greens iirc. Just to the left you can always try Slice and Dice. Long sections of ringlocks with mostly decent feet. Good for practicing. Bring more than a handful of green camalots.
I seem to remember that Double Bock @ Optimator is a good boulderproblem on ringlocks to thin hands.
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Most of these are just things I saw and looked good, but Dos Hermanos looked similar to Coyne (remembering from decades ago...)
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Dos Hermanos has no ringlock-section iirc. Fingers and hands/fists.
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Probably right.
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At the risk of being obvious, go to Millstone?
If you can think of anything hard enough there in those sizes, please let me know
TBH I can't think of anything in the Peak that relates well. Nat and I spent a while searching out various cracks in the Peak district before going straight to the desert. Watching WildCountry Crack School (thanks Tommy!) was the best preparation we'd done by miles.
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I find ringlock technique easier than rattly fingers, just unsure on the stamina side of it.
Because in splitters ringlocks are easier than rattly fingers, and the feet are usually better as well. I have really big toes, so in a true splitter I sometimes have to pegboard ringlocks, still easier than loose fingers (which always require pegboarding)
What the heck is pegboarding? :-\ :shrug:
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What the heck is pegboarding? :-\ :shrug:
I'm sure you've seen pegboards (an old not very good american idea to train for climbing). When you pegboard cracks you climb cracks like you would climb a peg board, by putting in the jams, locking off and reaching statically for the next jam with the feet dangling useless below. In Indian Creek you cannot get your feet in splitter cracks below a certain size (depending on the size of your feet) thus the thinnest finger cracks often require pegboarding even for the most petit feet.
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Ah it all makes sense now. Sounds absolutely heinous :sick:
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I'd focus on pain tolerance and stamina. I didn't read how long you'll be there for but it's definitely worth working your way up through the classics there; you can train yourself up while you're there.
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I am hoping to attempt s
-Shunt insanity climbed as a crack (rumored to be 5.12+/13-)
not a chance; 10+ at the most. (maybe)
I pretty much agree with Bennett on this one I'm afraid, Millstone is nothing like the Creek, the Peak in general is not that similar at all. The closest thing in the UK which springs to mind is the cracks on slate. However, if you are tied to the peak... just get savagely fit on hand cracks so you can milk all the jam rests?
The Optimator itself is the most sustained ringlocking thing i can remember, I think I did all the other ones you mention, but can't remember them having massively sustained ringlocks. Way Rambo is particularly great, as is Dos Hermanos, as Grimer said.
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I am hoping to attempt s
-Shunt insanity climbed as a crack (rumored to be 5.12+/13-)
not a chance; 10+ at the most. (maybe)
I pretty much agree with Bennett on this one I'm afraid, Millstone is nothing like the Creek, the Peak in general is not that similar at all. The closest thing in the UK which springs to mind is the cracks on slate. However, if you are tied to the peak... just get savagely fit on hand cracks so you can milk all the jam rests?
The Optimator itself is the most sustained ringlocking thing i can remember, I think I did all the other ones you mention, but can't remember them having massively sustained ringlocks. Way Rambo is particularly great, as is Dos Hermanos, as Grimer said.
Thanks for the info! Will look into them
Gonna have to disagree on 10+ however, been to the creek before and climbed lots of 5.10 there.
Plus Moffatt used insanity as training for onsighting the phoenix. Which seems unlikely if it's still E2 straight in