6. +20kgs koyamada test on rockringsGet in! :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Boulder 7b
Ride a horse
Happy new year ukb
Boulder 7b
Ride a horse
Happy new year ukb
I can't believe you haven't bouldered 7b! You're actually pretty strong! Have you ever tried one? I'm sure you can smash that one in this year... ie in the next week
I love the second of these objectives I've quoted. Massive respect.
Get in! :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
I do remember it was good but other than that the only details I recall are it having a dodgy bolt that I had to tie to the one above with a long tat (this was 13 years go, must be fixed by now!) and 'big' Seb physically ripping me off some jugs when I shouted take (smashed knee into rock and couldn't climb for a bit). Check out Hulk Hogan wall while you're in the area!
Protoplasm 29 - Hanging Rock (Bonjoy - how is it?)
Something cool looking in castle hill area
I do remember it was good but other than that the only details I recall are it having a dodgy bolt that I had to tie to the one above with a long tat (this was 13 years go, must be fixed by now!) and 'big' Seb physically ripping me off some jugs when I shouted take (smashed knee into rock and couldn't climb for a bit). Check out Hulk Hogan wall while you're in the area!
Protoplasm 29 - Hanging Rock (Bonjoy - how is it?)
Something cool looking in castle hill area
Boulder something harder than 7A
Ahah that's cool!Get in! :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Haha! I haven't done it yet mate :weakbench: but may as well throw the intention out there.
Incidentally, the "touch floor" goal is inspired by that Klokov video you put up - where he is stretching before crushing the pause snatch. I don't know why, but seeing that as well as the heavy lifts was a strong reminder of how winners are made :boxing:
Boulder something harder than 7A
You could do that tomorrow Conor. I'd up the numbers if I were you!!!
Boulder something harder than 7A
Den 7c
.Den 7c
going homo?
Goal for last year was to start route climbing again and do an 8b.
Goals for 2017 are to do a few 8bs away from home under time pressure, onsight a proper 8a (ie. no slash grades/things that are actually 7c), do a tricky boulder like Jerry's Roof. Tidy up some nemeses at home.
Don't get fired from job, sort my head out, go to church more, be less of a prick.
Goal for last year was to start route climbing again and do an 8b.
Goals for 2017 are to do a few 8bs away from home under time pressure, onsight a proper 8a (ie. no slash grades/things that are actually 7c), do a tricky boulder like Jerry's Roof. Tidy up some nemeses at home.
Don't get fired from job, sort my head out, go to church more, be less of a prick.
.Den 7c
going homo?
Phew doubt it. He's done one on my board so maybe that. Local advantage and all that.
Goal for last year was to start route climbing again and do an 8b.
Goals for 2017 are to do a few 8bs away from home under time pressure, onsight a proper 8a (ie. no slash grades/things that are actually 7c), do a tricky boulder like Jerry's Roof. Tidy up some nemeses at home.
Don't get fired from job, sort my head out, go to church more, be less of a prick.
The last three aren't very quantifiable! Strangely, my goals include 'sorting my head out' too. Literally and figuratively. I will leave the church attendance all to you, however.
Hopefully you'll get your head fixed with a nice bit of metal and you'll become an indestructible cyborg!
Ride a horse
The Oak.
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
Get a grip Crouchy.
my main goal is to lose some weight
due to ill health and even worse eating habits, I have both gained weight and lost muscle
fat monitor scales say that I am over 15 stone and over 30% fat - the mirror indicates an unhealthily large, round tummy
on the plus side, I still have skinny legs :2thumbsup:
on the plus side, I still have skinny legs :2thumbsup:
Didn't know you had been ill - sorry to hear that.
Better if you put a specific weight target with some timelines and how rather than just "some weight" ie what weight do you think you would have to be to climb a 7C ?
if I lose 3 stone, I expect to do The Oak before Shark by merely concentrating on climbing really quickly
Consolidate further at E5. This means regularly onsighting ones that are considered solid/hard for the grade and haven't been cherry picked to suit my style.
As ever just keep getting on them and enjoying going for the onsight and challenging myself.
Go for the onsight of an E6. Even if I fall off or down climb (for valid reasons) this will be a success.
Lord is a long term goal but could also be a candidate for a first E6...
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
Border collie? :wub:
Consolidate further at E5. This means regularly onsighting ones that are considered solid/hard for the grade and haven't been cherry picked to suit my style.
As ever just keep getting on them and enjoying going for the onsight and challenging myself.
Go for the onsight of an E6. Even if I fall off or down climb (for valid reasons) this will be a success.
Lord is a long term goal but could also be a candidate for a first E6...
FYI peak suggestions... Golden Mile: challenging E5; Reproduction E6... I wouldn't like to say which was actually more difficult.
Or Pembroke: Orange Robe Burning / Yellow Pearls...
1. Move away from Scotland ASAP
[/quote
How about in the region of the A55? More adventure partners the better in my view..
In 2015 I set no aims - and despite missing most of the first three months through injury have had one of my best years to date. So I'm tempted to set no aims for 2016....
Red River Gorge. I can think of few crags for which I am currently more unsuited.
Red River Gorge. I can think of few crags for which I am currently more unsuited.
It's sandstone isn't it?
Trad:
Consolidate further at E5. This means regularly onsighting ones that are considered solid/hard for the grade and haven't been cherry picked to suit my style.
As ever just keep getting on them and enjoying going for the onsight and challenging myself.
Go for the onsight of an E6. Even if I fall off or down climb (for valid reasons) this will be a success.
Lord is a long term goal but could also be a candidate for a first E6...
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
Border collie? :wub:
Aye, a very highly driven lady!
Wishing all of you the very best in 2017. The UKB community continues to be the best!
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
Border collie? :wub:
Aye, a very highly driven lady!
Wishing all of you the very best in 2017. The UKB community continues to be the best!
And best wishes to you too.
Can we have a photo...?
- Lobster Claw on the Depot 50 board (or at least do the individual moves).
(https://s28.postimg.org/3q5s9f0bx/meg.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/on20e2ycp/)photos upload (https://postimage.org/)
- Lobster Claw on the Depot 50 board (or at least do the individual moves).Is this one up on the FB?
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
Nice. Looks alert and bright and good fun.
Shouldn't be on the chair though...
Border collie? :wub:
Aye, a very highly driven lady!
Wishing all of you the very best in 2017. The UKB community continues to be the best!
And best wishes to you too.
Can we have a photo...?
Of course, meet 18 month old Meg. She's got a good summit ticklist to her name already. I clipped my GPS watch on to her harness on the field the other night. Should make for an amusing trace!
(https://s28.postimg.org/3q5s9f0bx/meg.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/on20e2ycp/)photos upload (https://postimage.org/)
Do a coast-to-coast road trip of America on a converted school bus playing at radical dance events.
Become strong enough that I'm not the weakest person who uses the Bloc board.Thought that was three nine?
Do big awesome new routes.
Get a PhD
Get a job that I don't hate and that lets me spend as much time as possible climbing and doing music. Or, run away with the circus.
Don't start a post-doc in maths.
Decide whether current relationship is viable long term or not.
Do the move I currently can't do on Meltdown
Do the super secret project.
Try some of: Lizard King, One Giant Lip For Mankind, Elder Statesman, The Groove, Supernova, Tabou Zizi, Bristol's Got Talent, Point Blank, Once Upon A Time In The Southwest
Become strong enough that I'm not the weakest person who uses the Bloc board.
8c RP, 8a OS.
Headpunt E9. Onsight more E6s.
Do a coast-to-coast road trip of America on a converted school bus playing at radical dance events.
Become strong enough that I'm not the weakest person who uses the Bloc board.Thought that was three nine?
8c RP
6. Get dog ready for Crufts agility 2019.Awesome aim sir :)
Nice. Looks alert and bright and good fun.
Shouldn't be on the chair though...
Border collie? :wub:
Aye, a very highly driven lady!
Wishing all of you the very best in 2017. The UKB community continues to be the best!
And best wishes to you too.
Can we have a photo...?
Of course, meet 18 month old Meg. She's got a good summit ticklist to her name already. I clipped my GPS watch on to her harness on the field the other night. Should make for an amusing trace!
(https://s28.postimg.org/3q5s9f0bx/meg.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/on20e2ycp/)photos upload (https://postimage.org/)
8c RP
If you do Agincourt, i'll be so impressed that i'll swear never to use the word 'gay' in a pejorative sense again, and every time I accidentally say it i'll give £1 to Elton John's HIV charity.
8c RP
If you do Agincourt, i'll be so impressed that i'll swear never to use the word 'gay' in a pejorative sense again, and every time I accidentally say it i'll give £1 to Elton John's HIV charity.
What would i have to climb to make you donate to CAC? ;)
Try an 8a more than once- tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A
Try an 8a more than once- tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A
8c RP
If you do Agincourt, i'll be so impressed that i'll swear never to use the word 'gay' in a pejorative sense again, and every time I accidentally say it i'll give £1 to Elton John's HIV charity.
What would i have to climb to make you donate to CAC? ;)
I'll donate £500 to CAC if in return you give me £1000?
Try an 8a more than once- tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A
What did you think of it?
- Stop being weak for the grades I climb
- Stop being weak for the grades I climb
- Stop being weak for the grades I climb
Nowt wrong with that in my book.
Try an 8a more than once- tried El Latido de Miedo in Terradets 3 whole times! Very intimidated first time up, be good to have a rematch when im not feeling so ill.
Boulder something harder than 7A
What did you think of it?
Amazing, the whole crag was very impressive. Quite psyched to head back when I've got a bit more fitness to make the most of it all. The beta on your blog was very helpful!
2017 will be the most ambitious yet!
Climbing
- Sport 8a
- Boulder 8A
- Trip abroad with CSL to climb the Cassin on the Piz Badile and the Comici on Tre Cima
- Bag some class first ascents
- self massage and physio more
Non Climbing- Buy a house
- Keep writing
- Be on time when meeting people at the crag :-[
- one arm hang BM2K low middle hold for 10 seconds (currently ~7 sec RH, ~3 sec LH)
- one arm hang BM2K smallest holds for 5 seconds (currently not sure I can hang them)
- 1-4-7 on smallest campus rungs (have just about done 1-4-7 on the biggest ones)
- Lobster Claw on the Depot 50 board (or at least do the individual moves).
- Zoo York
- Ben's Groove sitter
- The Fonze
1. Move away from Scotland ASAP as it's a fucking rubbish place to be as a climber long term. - no but I'm sure it will happen soonish.
2. Complete my final "Wrecking the HPI Savage XS" RC car video "Caitkin & Camby Crush" before I go. - yes, ticked:
https://vimeo.com/217818173
3. Buy more hideous vests. - no but I got a couple of nice £3 beanies from Sports Direct.
4. Climb more routes in the Lleyn definitive guide. - no but I will try to do more later in the summer.
5. Mount a tiny laser on a 1/24 scale RC car. - not quite but yes for getting something hand-sized to break the speed limit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sRxqLvdZYc
6. Actually climb on Cornish granite in cold crisp conditions. - YES, this worked really well and did a few ace routes being helped not hampered by the weather:
(https://scontent.fman2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18557085_10155464221558623_8478484725366719615_n.jpg?oh=153c2eaa14dd23be53da28395c5862a1&oe=59CCF114)
7. Keep using anti-hydral. - YES, working really well and keeping my skin consistent.
8. Spend the first 3 months of the year climbing on gritstone. - no, stupid weather and too far away. One nice day at Earl and one at Brimham reassured me I still like the stuff.
9. Climb Gold @ North Pembroke and a few other routes. - YES overall, totally failed on Gold (E5+++/HXS?), but did many other great and inspiring routes.
10. TBA - still TBA.
Half-time report that I actually feel vaguely motivated to report.1. Move away from Scotland ASAP as it's a fucking rubbish place to be as a climber long term. - no but I'm sure it will happen soonish.
2. Complete my final "Wrecking the HPI Savage XS" RC car video "Caitkin & Camby Crush" before I go. - yes, ticked:
https://vimeo.com/217818173
3. Buy more hideous vests. - no but I got a couple of nice £3 beanies from Sports Direct.
4. Climb more routes in the Lleyn definitive guide. - no but I will try to do more later in the summer.
5. Mount a tiny laser on a 1/24 scale RC car. - not quite but yes for getting something hand-sized to break the speed limit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sRxqLvdZYc
6. Actually climb on Cornish granite in cold crisp conditions. - YES, this worked really well and did a few ace routes being helped not hampered by the weather:
(https://scontent.fman2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18557085_10155464221558623_8478484725366719615_n.jpg?oh=153c2eaa14dd23be53da28395c5862a1&oe=59CCF114)
7. Keep using anti-hydral. - YES, working really well and keeping my skin consistent.
8. Spend the first 3 months of the year climbing on gritstone. - no, stupid weather and too far away. One nice day at Earl and one at Brimham reassured me I still like the stuff.
9. Climb Gold @ North Pembroke and a few other routes. - YES overall, totally failed on Gold (E5+++/HXS?), but did many other great and inspiring routes.
10. TBA - still TBA.
Not really many full failures so far, and a lot of thoroughly enjoyable successes. So far so good.
- Heal most recent injury Elbow mostly better, still occasional weird pain
- Don't get re-injured Yes so far. Smashed head in Magic but that was only temporary and didn't stop climbing
- Boulder 7C Not yet, got close to a couple in Rocklands. Potential project in Bullet at Anston...
- Train finger strength Not done yet, going to act on advice from 36C to chuck some one armed hangs in the middle of each wall session. Climbing on the board has helped my finger strength though...
- Go on some good trips YYFY! Chironico, Magic Wood. Font twice. Rocklands. A week in the Lakes booked for August. Buzzing...
1. Get to 80kg whilst remaining <10% body fat
2. 100kg bench
3. 75kg overhead press
4. Get an official handicap (at hit the small white ball) and play some nice courses with the old man around N Wales
5. Get back up an 8th grade bloc (may conflict with most of the above!)
6. Go abroad for a proper holiday!
Off to Rocklands end of June - only got a fortnight so really psyched to make the most of it:Be in shape for SA, have an awesome trip.
8A in UKand SA.
8b (prob going to put this back to after birthday in order to focus on SA)
Go trad climbing again
Check out more of the Dartmoor bouldering in the Teign valley (ie try something other than Devon Sent)
Goals for this year:
- rid self of elbow niggle and try to stay injury free Still got dodgy elbow
- get some days out further afield Partial success
- do something that feels hard, challenging and good, grade irrelevant (depending what injury situation at the time is). Happy with BSMA, Lowrider, Flick Of Time and Influx
- stamp out use of the word "bloc", and similarly eradicate use of the word "boulder" to mean "boulder problem". Very much a work in progress
I'm tending to use "bloque" more if that helps, D-Piddy?
I'm tending to use "bloque" more if that helps, D-Piddy?
It doesn't, but thanks for trying.
Prediction for next year: we'll see a lot of "bawldahs" being climbed.
Rebuild finger strength slowly for minimum 2 months before pushing it (end of feb). If this goes well:
Onsight many 5.11s in utah
RP / onsight 5.12 crack
Climb some awesome towers
Get back to onsighting 7a
Do zippatrocity
Do another proper trad trip? Maybe back for more el cap routes with the right partner
Onsight 7b in chulilla
Dws more 7a in Mallorca
Rebuild finger strength slowly for minimum 2 months before pushing it (end of feb). If this goes well:
Onsight many 5.11s in utah
RP / onsight 5.12 crack - ongoing
Get back to onsighting 7a - 2 so far, but getting better
Do zippatrocity YYFY
Do another proper trad trip? Maybe back for more el cap routes with the right partner La Cabrera in 2 weeks!
Onsight 7b in chulilla - removed, replaced with a better venue! (La Cabrera)
Dws more 7a in Mallorca
Fingers - ongoing (still sore). Very frustrating. - getting there, great gains during the last 2 weeks.
Pretty bloody happy with this considering the injury issues I have had!
Original goalsTry an 8a more than once- had about 4 goes on El Latido de Miedo, not close but definately saw how an 8a could come together.Boulder something harder than 7A- Weedkiller, Lightning Strike, Weedbasher, Toe Dragon Dog ShooterTouch my toes- and have continued to try and improve flexibility
Revised goals
font 7B - shame not to manage this, fell of the top of Bus Stop and Bustach Prow.
tick something off the lifetime list - only tried two things off it, hoping to do at least one in 2018!
The good thing about failing to complete a to do list is you already have one ready...
1) Not get injured and maintain current reasonable bouldering form
Tick. Although good form did not equate to good sends.
2) Do some more mountain rock routes, maybe tick a few more Classic Rock routes (although nearest ones are now Glencoe / Nevis)
Fail - not tied in
3) nail 2 last remaining bouldering projects locally. Release the guide
Fail - see 1
4) Do the DWS traverse
Fail - connies did not allow
5) Get some great powder riding in in the Alps or some good touring depending on conditions
Tick, 2 amazing days loving skiing powder now it;s clicked.
6) Get back to some surfing again, spend more time surfing the sublime Moray coast.
Fail - shocking year for surf.
7) Do some local ski touring and if conditions don't allow, some easier (II/III) winter routes.
Fail - crap winter
8) Ski Glencoe (last remaining Scottish area I've never been to).
Fail - crap winter
9) Take more photos, and do something with them
Been a reasonable year.
10) Don't be so lazy when it comes to Aurora chasing
Been a reasonable year.
11) Do some longer SUP tours on the coast
Fail - barely been on board
12) 5 hours for Loch Ness Etape
Yes - 4:30:27 smashed
13) 2 hours for Aberdeen half Marathon (first in 30 years)
Yes - 1:48
14) do some hill races.
Loads of hill running plus ring of steall so i'm taking it.
I didn't write this one down because I was too embarrassed, but I just touched my toes for the first time in ~10 years! YYFYTouch my toes
Can anyone recommend some good 7B+ problems to try in Devon or Cornwall?
We moved in together earlier in the year, and on Sunday she agreed to marry me ;DCongrats mate! Have a wad point :)
2017 aims looked a lot like 2016 aims...
- ring finger is currently complying with stresses of training
...We moved in together earlier in the year, and on Sunday she agreed to marry me ;D
2017 aims looked a lot like 2016 aims...
YYFY - sod the rest of it, a big win here! We moved in together earlier in the year, and on Sunday she agreed to marry me ;D
Den 7c
Routes:
A few in New Zealand (unlikely as I'll need more time given the grades but it's good to aim high)
No Country for Old Men 29/Collosus 27 - Little Babylon, Darrans
Adventurous hike up and impending bad weather meant I just had a look at them, climbed a fun 27 in Wanaka but it's not the same. I can't say I'm not gutted in respect of trip climbing goals but I've not been as awestruck as I was in the Darrans before. This is the view from Little Babylon
(http://i63.tinypic.com/wgq3ba.jpg)
Protoplasm 29 - Hanging Rock (Bonjoy - how is it?)
Walked in to find it hotter than the sun and pretty frickin' esoteric
Something cool looking in castle hill area
Failed on the lung dyno and various other slopey things, crazy beautiful place but just not my bag climbing wise.
DWS in Ha Long Bay, drip sweat on belayer in Thailand and catch a fish.
Tides wrong for DWS but dripped sweat on belayer down Butterly Valley, hot hot hot. Saw lots of fish in tiny tank, yikes.
Once back in the UK
Onsight UK 7b (fell off at the belay of 'dive dive dive' so am eager to achieve this)
Fail so far, close though so just need to keep plugging away
Climb 8a again, go back on Supercool
One, looking to get a solid one done soon. Haven't been up to Yorkshire yet
Onsight E5 (proper onsight, discounts quite a few due to the geek in me)
No trad
Boulder 7b
No boulder
Life
Have a bloody good time away
Had a bloody good time away, still away in my head
Apply for course
Coming up in October, prep work done
Get a temp job either Devon, Bristol or Sheffield
Just started in Devon, bit shit but whatever
Save up again
saving up for driving now
Get a van sorted out
Got our eyes open
Ride a horse
Gone off them, pretty grumpy and their heads are too solid.
Happy rest of your new year ukb
1. One Arm Pull up
2. Close a #2 Captains of Crush
3. Palms flat on floor with legs straight
4. 1-4-7
5. +50kgs for 10s off the smallest BM1k
6. +20kgs koyamada test on rockrings
7. 50 7s
8. 8A
9. Nine hours in bed a night (ave, obvs)
Mike Tyson
#71 Re: Aims for 2017
December 31, 2016, 10:06:25 pm
Quote
Get shoulder, elbow and back fixed. I haven't climbed since April, so just doing something would be absolutely fantastic.
Continue the steady decline in drinking. Run two more half marathons, ideally the Keswick one and Lancaster so I can benchmark against previous.
Manage to impregnate the Mrs. It's laughable really. I have two wonderful daughters, who both arrived unexpectedly and against many odds. Now I'm in a position where we chose to have kids, and so far no joy
Get the mountain bike serviced and start using it again. The Yorkshire Dales are calling.
Continue recent run of form with music. Managed to knock out a few mixes recently which have been getting played all over the world. If anyone fancies a listen, click link below
First and foremost, sort out my bloody wrists. Been suffering since March but through a series of differing physio opinions they're now at the point where I can climb almost as much as I want. But still having to avoid certain holds/moves. And I'm miles off being able to do push ups.
Would love to get up a 7C, but if not then at least start to consolidate at about 7B.
Double my number of 7's (boulders...), so putting me up to 60. Hoping for a good Font trip at Easter where I'll aim at climbing lots of low 7's, which would help.
In the real world:
Get some sort of plan together. :lol:
1. Don't get injured again - Success up until I got back from Rocklands in July but nothing serious
2. Font 8B! - Tick! Fragile Steps in Rocklands, may be one that's soft and not in the UK but its my style and a funky low ball line, need to get trying some in the UK when they dry out.
3. Try sport climbing more..... Didn't even tie in once
Been planning this as a big year for a while with a significant birthday looming. Looking to build on 2016 really but that does mean getting my neck sorted and cracking on with training, already six weeks behind where I started last year.
Do 6 hardish redpoints (=>7c) - Powerplant, Toys for the Boys, The Prow plus those on the WIP list (Aberration, Sissy, Arch Enemies, Raindogs)
Do an 8a+ - likely one of Anger Management, Nemesis or Chimes
Raise OS level again, aiming for 7c ultimately but would be happy to manage 7b+ this year.
OS E4 consistently & Try E5 (hit list for both mostly involves stuff at High Tor, Chee Tor & Stoney)
HP/GU E6. e.g Masters of Reality, Mad Max.
Do a Fairly Long, Moderately Hard route somewhere abroad, e.g. Fiesta de los Biceps, Grand Wall, something in Alps/Dollies
Keep up yoga and antag/conditioning work, get into the practice of warming down better.
Kept up with the mixing, got a resident place at a new night in Carlisle starting in February.
Finish my film by the end of April whilst actually improving at climbing
:lol: Oh God, I really, really underestimated how much work would be involved in finishing this fucker. ... On the plus side I'm so close now that only freak circumstances can prevent it being finished before the end of January.
[/quote]
3. Try sport climbing more..... Didn't even tie in once
Return to some semblance of fighting weight. At least 20kg to go...
Lost quite a lot but then put half of it back on
Devise a training plan that is realistic, safe, fun, and mildly ambitious.
Ditto for cycling.
No real plan at all
Take the kids to Font and climb something to be proud of based on above.
Fail
Try to fit in some grit weekends, and tick some cool things I've not done, hopefully up to E3.
Fail
Something else on foreign soil later in the year - Morocco / Siurana / Provence?
Puntering in Switzerland and Italy
Ride SDW in a day.
Fail
US work trip / pick up new bike and do something fun, like Onion Valley Road or Highway 39.
Cingles du Ventoux.
This is getting boring now..
Sort out our disaster area of a house, including kitchen before the 2 year anniversary of my taking it out of action.
3 1/2 years and counting
Do a shitload of great work, inc 3 books minimum
1 3/4 books plus various bits of other ones
Must try harder...
Kept up with the mixing, got a resident place at a new night in Carlisle starting in February.
Wadded. Been enjoying your stuff on soundcloud, always spruces up a dull day.
Really looking forward to seeing this! Wish I’d made the effort to get in touch while you were filming it.
1 Regain at least pre injury climbing performance and cycling performance by the end of the year.
2 Get a complete skull back, recover from the operation (hopefully March- April)
3 overcome the hefty psychological burden of having nearly killed myself on an easy sport route.
4 Get my driving licence reissued.
Unfortunately 2 of these objectives rely on 2 of the most Byzantine organisations I can imagine having to deal with: the DVLA and the NHS....
- Heal most recent injury Tick!
- Don't get re-injured Tick!
- Boulder 7C Might have been a bit ambitious with this. I have cemented grades a lot better
- Train finger strength Did a little then injured them. Have been sat on the 50 for a while which seems to be helping
- Go on some good trips Tick! Chironico/Magic Wood in Easter, Rocklands in summer, Lakes in Summer and a load more weekends in between, and two font trips :2thumbsup:
Coops that's a ridonculous amount of 7s. Good work! Doesn't sound like 7C was overambitious at all. Have you tried many?Cheers Murph, I've tried a few. Just not yet found one I'm psyched to project. I have looked at Hannibal briefly, will look again next summer. Psyched for a winter of training!
- Heal most recent injury Tick!
- Don't get re-injured Tick!
- Boulder 7C Might have been a bit ambitious with this. I have cemented grades a lot better
- Train finger strength Did a little then injured them. Have been sat on the 50 for a while which seems to be helping
- Go on some good trips Tick! Chironico/Magic Wood in Easter, Rocklands in summer, Lakes in Summer and a load more weekends in between, and two font trips :2thumbsup:
Big year of bouldering for me, some good volume and some relatively big numbers. Pretty happy as my aim for 2016 was to get up to 100 7s total and this year alone I have done > 100.
UKC says this year I've done:
4 7B+
16 7B
34 7A+
64 7A
Bring on 2018!
Next time you're up in the peak maybe have a look at Tom's Cave (the pooh cave, not the roof). It's easy to get to. There's a couple of 7Bs in there and Hannibal, which I've not done obviously, gets 7C. That looks a good bet. Not that I know much of course.
Next time you're up in the peak maybe have a look at Tom's Cave (the pooh cave, not the roof). It's easy to get to. There's a couple of 7Bs in there and Hannibal, which I've not done obviously, gets 7C. That looks a good bet. Not that I know much of course.
I've not done it yet but Hannibal feels pretty solid for 7C to me.
If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.
Yeah, have always thought the Terrace looks a bit crap. Brass Monkeys could be a good grit one I think.If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.
The Terrace?
I have done Hannibal and thought it was bob on 7C, it's just a very different style to most other Peak lime 7Cs being very shouldery and powerful as opposed to fingery.Could be a good one actually, I have shoulders and don't have fingers...
Coops would also highly recommend Resonate at Anston Stones. Similar case of nice powerful climbing without any small holds (although again it's no pushover at the grade).I did pull on this in the summer, hard and good. May be another to try next spring
Also props for the strong psyche at the end :2thumbsup:If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.Video beta/shameless self promotion here if you want it ;)
https://vimeo.com/248605058
Also props for the strong psyche at the end :2thumbsup:If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.Video beta/shameless self promotion here if you want it ;)
https://vimeo.com/248605058
Pretty simple, but seems tough as I write.
Finish a project.
7C+ on Granite.
Tie on a rope again and clip some bolts. In the sun and sod the grade.
And this:
http://www.thefandancerace.com
On the 1st of July, in 4hrs with 35lbs (sod being in the "Masters" category).
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
Looking back at the 2017 climbing aims is a bit embarrassing.
However, it's been a great year. Done a lot of bouldering with the boys and they've done well in their exams with Ben now at uni.
A late life change of career direction in a job described as a poisoned chalice was far more demanding than I expected and I'm proud of how I carried out the role and achieved exceptional results which required overcoming numerous hurdles. The job, whilst frustrating has also been very stimulating and probably better than slipping into retirement which seemed to be the way I was heading.
Looking back at the Power Club entries I think I trained well for the Oak in the Spring and was unlucky not to get it (did it from four moves in to the top) and maybe I would have got it where it not for other lifestyle factors.
Managed to fit in a super few days in Pembroke after a long absence and a recent bonus fun trip to Leonides
I have ended the year stronger but without much to show for it. On paper doing a 7B in a day at Connies Dale was a first but far more proud of doing Jericho Road especially with Ben doing it too on the same visit and Moffatrocity should go down when dry again.
The job, whilst frustrating has also been very stimulating and probably better than slipping into retirement which seemed to be the way I was heading.
Injuries
1) Try to fix my injuries by utilising my work’s medial insurance which I’ve already paid the year’s excess for.
a. Bupa consultation booked for tomorrow for a hand specialist in Leeds. Hopefully I can get a proper diagnosis for my pulley injury and finally fix it.
This went well - finger is all fixed and feeling good!
b. Restart my knee strengthening exercises from last year so hopefully I can run again (10k run without pain).
Failed at this - I really need to sort it out this year though as I'm missing running a lot
2) Take the first few months of the year easy to fix the above injuries.
Yup
3) Use this time to work on some technique exercises following a coaching session I had with John Kettle before Christmas.
Nope - just easy climbing really as the injury healed quickly
4) Once I’m feeling confident that my finger is fixed, start a proper training plan to increase finger strength (ideally before the Yorkshire limestone season starts).
Yup - but failed at sticking with it...
Climbing
1) Once fixed, start working through the grades again (on sport). I’ve got a Yorkshire sport tick list comprising of around 20 routes of each grade from 7a to 8a. My aim is going to be to try and onsight or flash as many as possible and try to finish one grade before moving on to the next. I’m hoping this will help my climbinghead, reduce the risk of injuries by not being tempted to try harder things and take me to lots of crags I’ve not yet been to.
I think I only had two days of UK sport. However, I managed 5 new routes at Malham/Kilnsey on these two days. Most first go having been on them 4 years ago.
2) Not get involved in any long term projects. If it doesn’t feel like it will go in a weekend then I’m aiming to leave it until I’m stronger/better.
No projects this year. Hopefully have some this coming year.
3) Try tremolo again as a late-season tick (subject to finger being okay).
Only had the one day there and Tremolo had lots of people on it unfortunately
4) Specific grade goals:
a. O/S 7b (was 7a last year)
TICK! It may have been a soft one in kalymnos but I'm happy with it! Came agonisingly close on a number of others too, falling right at the end where there's essentially no way you can fall...
b. Flash 7b+ (was 7b last year)
Fell off one due to bad beta on the last crux move. It was short person beta from someone who said to go for the crimp rather then the slightly higher victory jug..
c. RP 7c (same – I think 8a is too ambitious given my finger at the moment).
I think I did one in Kalymnos... but it may have been 7b+. I'd have to check my guide.
5) Incorporate one arm hangs into my training.
It went well for a while, and then stopped.
6) Track my training and keep notes (probably through the power club).
For a while - everything went wrong in the summer due to work and time though unfortunately.
7) Bouldering aims TBC – probably going to leave them until the summer/autumn but it would be good to tick some more 7A’s.
Got a bunch of 7A/+, one or two 7B's and my first 7B+ so this went well!
8 ) Help girlfriend get up a 7a sport route – she’s psyched for one and I’d love to see her climb one!
Maybe next year... This year wasn't great for getting out for both of us.
Life
1) Go to an 80/90% work contract.Got it accepted but didn't start it. It's been a busy work year and I think I'd have ended up working extra even if I dropped my hours. Maybe next year...
2) Find and fix the shower leak. One day...
3) Fix central heating. We're super warm now!
4) Visit parents more (bi-monthly?) Managed to make it home more this year - it's been nice!
5) Waste less money / save more. I'm definitely saving more but still wasting lots. Something to work on in 2018
6) Sell crappy van / buy new car The van's gone and I've a Berlingo. It's perfect for climbing and we've not had any problems yet, touch wood.
Never done this before and always feel I've missed out come the end of year even though I would invariably miss most targets....I got one prediction correct.....
1. Recover my shoulder or at least get a decent diagnosis and work around that.This particular injury got forgotten about under the welter of other injuries I had
2. Get stronger, I only want to do this to help achieve some of the other aims but if I manage to get up my other targets without getting stronger it probably means I've cheated somehow so I should list it separately to keep me honest.Definitely didn't get stronger, quite the opposite
3. Climb a UK 8aNot even close
4. Climb 2 big routes at GordaleOne trip to Goredale so that's a no
5. At least three visits to Chapel Head ScarNot one
6. Obscene ToiletDidn't even have my annual pilgrimage to the Tor
7. There are three routes at Terradetes I've scoped out. If I go, doing one is a minimum and doing two would be nice.Didn't go to Terradets
8. On sight 7b+ in Kaly at Easter (there are still holiday grades there, right?)They do still have holiday grades which enabled me to OS 7b but still short of my target
9. If I get injured, something decent in the Alps or on trad.I was injured but not in the head so managed to steer clear of the Alps. Trad just didn't happen
Non-climbingI over achieved here but it was not without drama and wasted large amounts borrowing money I never used in the end. Also, as I'm one of those predicting a fall in property prices so I'm not sure how much of a win this is
1. Buy a house
2. Do something decent fitness wise (e.g. Welsh 3000s, Rossendale Way, MT Loop)Was diagnosed with a badly arthritic hip which precludes anything like this without a replacement, not sure if things are bad enough for a replacement yet but it has noticeably deteriorated this year so maybe that will happen sooner rather than later.
3. Buy a car befitting of someone in a mid-life crisisI didn't go for the full "Marjorie, I'm leaving you and the kids and taking the au pair with me" type mid-life crisis style car. I did however buy something which means I no longer have to park around the corner when we go places.
4. Some thing at work has to give, not sure what or how.Slight role change, got offered an enhanced career break and declined so now only have myself to blame for staying where I am. Bit happier.
1. Being only mildly depressed during pollen season.
2. Increase finger strength at least 5% above previous maximum. This is pretty much equivalent to do a one-arm hang from 20mm edge (left hand) and with 3 kg assistance (right hand)Nope. Did increase two-finger strength on positive pockets though, which really helped in Verdon.
3. Improve shoulder flexibility/mobility/strength to that of an average human.Give my self half a point here. If the average human is 60+ I guess I'm average.
4. Being able to do 12 pull-ups before my left shoulder start to lead the pull/roll forward (can currently do about 4 before I loose form)Can't even do 12 pull ups at the moment.
5. Onsight at least one 8a. I'm not fussed if it is a well-known soft-touch.Shitty goals. Wasn't inspired to climb onsight on single pitch crags. I didn't train for it, and I think I didn't even try to onsight something above 7c.
6. Onsight at least one solid 7c+ in the Provençal grading system.
That’s a good year by anyone’s measure Simon, nice one
The job, whilst frustrating has also been very stimulating and probably better than slipping into retirement which seemed to be the way I was heading.
As a result I have a job rather than a proper career which means that I will be working until I'm 67 before I have much chance of retiring.
Despite my frequent piss-takes, I quite admire Shark and his "work/life/climbing = it's all life" approach to being alive. It is especially nice to hear that slipping into retirement might not be as worthwhile as doing stuff that matters. He's mentioned this a couple times while we've been chatting about not much.
1. Get to 80kg whilst remaining <10% body fat
2. 100kg bench
3. 75kg overhead press
4. Get an official handicap (at hit the small white ball) and play some nice courses with the old man around N Wales
5. Get back up an 8th grade bloc (may conflict with most of the above!)
6. Go abroad for a proper holiday!
2017 promises to be an exciting year for me as I'm headed to Spain for TWO MONTHS iat the end of Jan!!! :2thumbsup: So for that reason will put my sport aims at the top.
Sport:
Redpoint 8a - no excuses not to put some effort into an 8a that will suit me - unlike those bouldery peak ones I've tried. Loooking forward to trying Pren Nota at Siurana in particular. tick! Climbed Pren Nota as my first 8a. Also did Memorias de Una Sepia but used the shakeout jug so don’t think its worth 8a.
Push into on-sighting/flashing 7b+ onsighted 6 single pitch 7b+ and a 500m with a soft 7b+ pitch on pitch 11
Would like to go for the flash of some 7cs in Chulilla at the end of the trip as Chulilla sounds like my dream crag - long vert crimps tech fests. flashed festre fotre in margalef and did the 7c to its right first go putting the clips in having tried it years ago. In Chulilla I didn’t flash any 7cs as I was trying to onsight them. No cigar unfortunately but climbed well on my attempts
Trad:
Consolidate further at E5. This means regularly onsighting ones that are considered solid/hard for the grade and haven't been cherry picked to suit my style. did 12 this year (10 onsight/flash, 1 ground-up and one that I redpointed after falling off and dogging to the top) this is probably as many as I have done in the last two years combined.
As ever just keep getting on them and enjoying going for the onsight and challenging myself.
Go for the onsight of an E6. Even if I fall off or down climb (for valid reasons) this will be a success. got very close on orange robe burning. This was my best effort but also tried the pulse beat in bad connies and tried to flash tears of a clown (terrifying) this was a bit of a conservative aim tbh I should have aimed to do one
Lord is a long term goal but could also be a candidate for a first E6... had one day where I felt too burnt out to strap it on but did get psyched for it after and planned to head up but it rained :/
The sport trip early in the year should really help with these aims giving me a leve of fitness I will never have had before.
Bouldering:
Climb more 7Bs
West Side Story!!!
big fat fail. Probably been my worst year of bouldering since I moved to Sheffield
Non-climbing:
Make a good start in Rope Access world. Work hard, make good contacts.
Eat less (no?) meat and less dairy.
Get it sorted so I can spend summers based in Llanberis and Winters based in Sheffield - basically live in a van so I guess green?
Balance climbing with seeing family and friends correctly
Big chat here so we shall have to see if any of it comes to fruition!
Hope everyone achieves their goals next year!! Good Luck!
Just remembered I'd forgot to post on this...
- Do my 3 Little Orme projects
- Boulder 7B
- Stop being weak for the grades I climb
I'mstill weak for the grades I climb.really good at climbing
I'm still weak for the grades I climb.Story of my life, the moonboard is telling me this...
I'm still weak for the grades I climb.Story of my life, the moonboard is telling me this...
Talking fingers dick-ed :icon_321:I'm still weak for the grades I climb.Story of my life, the moonboard is telling me this...
how many muscle-ups can you do again Coops, 10? I'd expect at least 20 for someone climbing at your grade :fishing:
2017 will be an onsighting and training focused year...
Onsight some 8bs - onsighting on trips went well this year
Flash 8b in UK - didn't try
Onsight or flash 8b+ - 8b/+ will have to do
Some UK redpoint stuff - maybe Hajj, Devo, Sabotage, Money for Nothing, one of Jordan's things at Hollywood Bowl... - not really, just dumb links not anything that felt like proper redpointing
More 8Bs - Armstrong and Belly
Talking fingers dick-ed :icon_321:I'm still weak for the grades I climb.Story of my life, the moonboard is telling me this...
how many muscle-ups can you do again Coops, 10? I'd expect at least 20 for someone climbing at your grade :fishing:
2017 will be the most ambitious yet!
Climbing
- Sport 8a: Big fail, didn't even get on one.
- Boulder 8A: great success
- Trip abroad with CSL to climb the Cassin on the Piz Badile and the Comici on Tre Cima: Fail - but we did end up in a different country in the mountains for a week of bouldering ;)
- Bag some class first ascents: Northing class but a couple ok things.
- self massage and physio more: Better, but could probably do more
Non Climbing
- Buy a house: Boomtown. It's not fallen over yet either.
- Keep writing: Fail, too much work and struggle to face writing when I get home.
- Be on time when meeting people at the crag :-[ I'm going to say I did a lot better this year ;D