UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: dave on March 04, 2004, 09:52:23 am
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OK then, whats the problems you 've split tips on, or at least the most/worst splits in the UK? lets see if theres any trends?
some of my most splitting problems (repeat offenders) are:- t crack
- blind date
- jason's undercling
- not to be taken away
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You will probably find this change but ive never split a tip. Now, the boy Hurley reckons i dont try hard enough... :roll: Ive worn through my skin, but never to the actual point of bleeding. Ive given myself more knuckle flappers than i care to remember (Ahh, theres a thread)
Good skin? Or not trying hard enough?
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you've never split a tip? man you've never lived. i think wearing through to the red counts as a split though. I've split a tip more times than you've had hot dinners then. I've been out climbing with 5 taped splits. Cofe has split the same tip every week this year so far i think! theres certainly problems i've never walked away from without a split......t-crack springs to mind.
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After a session once at widdop, 9 of my ten fingers were bleeding because of split tips, and both my hands were in the claw position. Main culprit of this was Pool traverse. I had to go out that night with my finger tips bandaged or else I could hold a pint without it hurting!
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hey adam what was my tip like after that new proble at burbage south
it was pissing with blood, the pebble pierced my tip, couldnt climb for a week
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hey adam what was my tip like after that new proble at burbage south
it was pissing with blood, the pebble pierced my tip, couldnt climb for a week
Aye! Looked a bit painful :?
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is this a new prob at burb south or new for u? if it's a new prob where is it?
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My Welsh nominee is the Sting at the Cromlechs, horrible.
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is this a new prob at burb south or new for u? if it's a new prob where is it?
yes south, its right of the nock, sit start and traverse to rib righwards then top out (hard) or standing start on right at about B7?????? dont really know as I split my tip ask adam for grade
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i think scouse and jimbo might have been on this.
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is this a new prob at burb south or new for u? if it's a new prob where is it?
yes south, its right of the nock, sit start and traverse to rib righwards then top out (hard) or standing start on right at about B7?????? dont really know as I split my tip ask adam for grade
Aye, standing start is about V6/7, but traversing in from left would be hard. (V9?) Not done it yet so...
Both variations probably done before
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Anything on Dartmoor.
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for completness heres a list of all the UK problems i have distinct memories of splitting a tip on - if anyone knows any i've missed then post up.
t crack, blind date, jason's undercling, not to be taken away, blind fig, that sloper thing at remergence, rocket man, submergence, that roof thing right of jasons, that B6 thing at Burbage bridge, hampers hang, that pebble thing left of hampers, the storm, spring voyage, buckstone dyno, blockbuster, lurcher direct, that B5 traverse at clifftop, everything at the newstones, sean's (cragx), andy browns wall, sloping beauty, attitude inspector, that B5 thing at trackside, zippy's traverse, ape drape, help the aged, that B7 arete at higgar......and many more!
:8)
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don't think I've ever split a tip, only wear through my skin or occasionaly puncture a finger or two. That b7 thing at cratcliff middle always a good one to finish you off when you've got thin skin. Been on there with 8 taped tips :lol:
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yes south, its right of the nock, sit start and traverse to rib righwards then top out (hard) or standing start on right at about B7?????? dont really know as I split my tip ask adam for grade
how far right, can't picture it.
if u stand in front of knock n look at the gully. theres a nice rib on right. no doubt its dirty again but if cleaned is an awesome move if u just use arete n not big hold just round side. sit start, left hand up to arete, jug wi right. nice moves.
did traverse under knock a couple of years ago. 2 monos in roof underneath knock, rising traverse left up line of slopes to finish in break at rons thing. good moves, if utterly pointless. :lol:
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only dave could split a tip on limecrime
i've split my left middle finger every weekend since xmas including tearing my hand totally 2 or 3 times on hurricane.
split my first tip on red baron at shitley glen - it was the time i did it though so who cares :D
tore the entire tip off on NTBTA once - yowser.
can't think of any real main offenders - depends how hard i'm trying on something that's too hard for me :silly:
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Rpipped the whole end off my finger from about 1cm down right roud to the nail. Had to chew the huge flap off and it pissed blood all the way home. Coulndnt climb for weeks. It was the finger on the bottom of a stack on talk to me martin. :shock:
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how far right, can't picture it.
i think its the thing 1cm left of the knock in this photo:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331
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only dave could split a tip on limecrime
I've got to admit that was a weird one - particularly as it was on friendly holds.
I'm proud to say that Cofe had never split a tip 'till he started climbing with me. :D
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only dave could split a tip on limecrime
I've got to admit that was a weird one - particularly as it was on friendly holds.
I'm proud to say that Cofe had never split a tip 'till he started climbing with me. :D
now i bleed like a muthfucka
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how far right, can't picture it.
i think its the thing 1cm left of the knock in this photo:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331
er, i think it's 1cm right innit? unless you're on about parthian....?
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how far right, can't picture it.
i think its the thing 1cm right of the knock in this photo:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331
cheers i've changed it now.
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I rarely get split tips, but often get splits on the bends of the first joint. For quick healing is taping to keep the skin clean and supple best, or leaving untaped so the cut can breath best?
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how far right, can't picture it.
i think its the thing 1cm right of the knock in this photo:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331
cheers i've changed it now.
Aye, it starts on the arete and climbs the vague crease/overlap. Cool problem
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I rarely get split tips, but often get splits on the bends of the first joint. For quick healing is taping to keep the skin clean and supple best, or leaving untaped so the cut can breath best?
i'm on the borderline of getting one of them at the mo (from crimping angular shit on me woody) never had one before. I think you're oging to get it where the skin gets thick and dry. I'm trying to fight it off by moisturising it loads (climb on and cocoa butter) and sanding any bulky bits. touch wood its getting better.
I got a mate Rob who used to get these all the time whenever he climbed at the berghaus wall cos its all square cut edges and crimps.
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Aye, it's dirty plastic/wood climbing that does it usually. Sanding below the joint seem the best way to combat it.
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from crimping angular shit on me woody
I concur with the origin of this injury as bieng largely board related. As one of the biggest board whores here I regularly get this after a particularly virulent session (Good word - virulent. Out of context, but good).
As regards the treatment of such an irritating injury, I reckon keeping it soft is the key. Apply climb on and keep it covered in the day, let it breathe at night.
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did this prob at burb south few yrs ago from standin. nice. but stil rate the left arete of gully directly behind as a move of genius. am quite embarrased about doin that traverse now, as just seen how imposin the view is an i was scrabbling around in the shadow :oops:
while we're on subject can't ever remember splittin a tip, sure i must have tho. i have seen sum horrific hands after dicing wi that groove/crack b6 prob at burb south, right of talk to me martin.
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did this prob at burb south few yrs ago from standin. nice. but stil rate the left arete of gully directly behind as a move of genius. am quite embarrased about doin that traverse now, as just seen how imposin the view is an i was scrabbling around in the shadow :oops:
while we're on subject can't ever remember splittin a tip, sure i must have tho. i have seen sum horrific hands after dicing wi that groove/crack b6 prob at burb south, right of talk to me martin.
What did you reckon it was from standing? V6? Did you try the full problem? Tricky ey!
That B6 has my favourite move anywhere on it. I love it. Ive got it so wired that i can do it in trainners. Much to the annoyence of a lot of people, as for some reason it seems to throw people :8)
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don't think v grades had been imported then. not keen on them on grit anyway. tricky prob. din't look at sit start :shock: . wil have look if i ever go back. too much of a walk in now :wink:
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I ripped a hole in my finger bouldering in Ailefroide. Doing a side-ways dyno from crimp with razor sharp edge, I caught the other hold but my right hand slipped and bled :evil:
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split me first tip today on the storm :(
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Huge flapper on my right index finger today on Rollerwall at Burbage South. F*** F*** F***!!!!!!
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lost my split tip virginity this weekend. dodging the gales by headin down to toady's playground, did it doin sum traverse. have bled all over my woody (that aint the first time :wink: ) for two days now.
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dragged subject back up due to obvious. fingers haven't gone through for years, never mind split tip. but today... bastard! v7 thing to left of splashdown at widdop. right index finger, crimpin on pebble on first hold. looks like i'll be doin more paintin than i wanted to 2mos :cry:
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saw this on CT - probably the mose severe flappere i've ever seen:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19406
sicker than your average :shock:
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saw this on CT - probably the mose severe flappere i've ever seen:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19406
sicker than your average :shock:
Poor Michael was suffering a strange skin affliction back then. An allergic reaction so not really a flapper in the climbing sense.
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is he related to snakes in any way?
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There's no snakes in Ireland....
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good point.
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There's no snakes in Ireland....
ian paisley :?:
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There's no snakes in Ireland....
ian paisley :?:
You came over a bit Ben Elton there webbo :D
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i was'nt sure whether i'd get moderated for getting to irish politics/religion. :twisted:
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You're more likely to get shot than moderated :wink:
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:lol: