UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: irish si on June 20, 2006, 02:09:50 pm
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tyler did the automator 8B in 5 tries. fucking hell. couldnt say it didnt suit him thought, bunched and crimpy.
must be easier than nice one john stand up in the ogwen cause he gave up on that in 5 tries.
fuck yeah.
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Tell me again, how did he get on at the Bowderstone? :oops:
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His scorecard seems to suggest that he only did Innaudeble Vaudeville - strange choice :-\
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horses for courses, what he's good at his scorecard speaks for itself. actually shit myself the first time i heard it. nice one ty
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to be fair though the conditions were awful at the stone when he was there grease city.
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good positive responses
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tyler did the automator 8B in 5 tries
That's seriously, seriously impressive....
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he is on fire.... im looking forward to joining him in few weeks. to watch if nothing else....
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Sorry, forgot to add that 8B fifth go is uberwaddage. There's a few Graham 8b+'s around that area to isn't there? Hope he turns his hand to one of those.
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to be fair though the conditions were awful at the stone when he was there grease city.
I was only yanking Moorish's chain. The average temp in the Rocky Mountains at present is 82 degrees, sounds pretty greasy to me?
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ha ha, dont think so gregor, not considering the boulders are at 12 000 ft! clear, high pressure, crisp, DRY, perfect. well better than woodwell last weekend.
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Tyler is a strange climber, he seems to piss the majority of stuff above 8a yet below that he oftens finds stuff nails. Whisky Bitch on pil box was a right struggle! He also seems to perform better on world class problems which is a good thing i spose. I reckon we'll all be dismayed by his latest tick list from the states! Go Ty :great:
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I think it has a lot to do with syke. if he is not that arsed then he doesnt perform. On world class problems with little holds he gets so syked that he does them very quickly.
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but shouldn't he be in school? ;)
hope i'm as stong as him when i'm 15... :-\
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Whisky Bitch on pil box was a right struggle!
Absolutely insane problem. How many repeats has this had? Good effort by mr.landman if he's knocked that one off.
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Whisky Bitch on pil box was a right struggle!
Absolutely insane problem. How many repeats has this had? Good effort by mr.landman if he's knocked that one off.
??? about 500.
there we go he did ANOTHER 8B today, Clear Blue Sky 3rd ascent
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were do you get all the latest info and stuff from because im a little behind.
any cool climbing sites a should check out an stuff like that?
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Whisky Bitch on pil box was a right struggle!
Absolutely insane problem. How many repeats has this had? Good effort by mr.landman if he's knocked that one off.
??? about 500.
my bad si, was half concentrating and dont know why for a second I thought Gaskins project on pill box wall was called whisky bitch and how I got confused between the two!
incidentally, whilst on the subject of pill box, has anyone attempted any wild link-ups on it?
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Doylo is close to the last big linkup. cool climbing actually. hard 8a or something.
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were do you get all the latest info and stuff from because im a little behind.
any cool climbing sites a should check out an stuff like that?
you are on the best one. Si gets the info because he is a fully paid up member of the Landman pad carrying/fan club.
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that reminds me ben, your not fully paid up for carrying my pads around ;)
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yeah we will see who is carrying whos pads when i get to the park.
by the looks of things he will have climbed everything so he fucking might as well carry my pads.
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when do you fly?
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my bad si, was half concentrating and dont know why for a second I thought Gaskins project on pill box wall was called whisky bitch and how I got confused between the two!
incidentally, whilst on the subject of pill box, has anyone attempted any wild link-ups on it?
ha ha, no not even the young superstar that is Tyler Landman (no slouch in the crimping department!)could pull onto the Gaskins problem.He dismissed it as 8c. I can't believe he gave it V12/13! Its obscene, ridiclious, absurd!
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still think John Gaskins might be an alien with the looks to boot! I'm joking of course, that is a typically sterling effort from a top bloke. I hate the dismissive "its 8c" rubbish, strikes me as very American. If at first you don't succeed, then pronounce it harder than anything it doesn't take you five goes or more to do. There seems to be a new attitude in climbing that is coming forward, whereby this is fast becoming the case. Surely we reserve really big numbers for problems that require a lot of working and a really big effort. Or am I outdated!?
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I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?
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I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?
I suppose yeah, I'm not really poised to speak on the finer points of top-top end climbing grading. Consensus at that level will always be contested amongst a very small number of individuals climbing at that level - will leave it up to them to deliberate!
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I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?
You might be able to say you reckon it's harder than what you've already climbed if you've given it some good tries, but can you give it a grade? Not really relating this to this problem or Tyler, who's obviously very good, but couldn't this translate to anything. ie "I've done similar V9s I can't pull on it must be V11"?
Anyway:
Tyler is a strange climber, he seems to piss the majority of stuff above 8a yet below that he oftens finds stuff nails.
maybe it's just easier than 8a? ;)
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I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?
Bollox that's pex 5b yooof
as any fule kno
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Hell, this is all hypothetical for almost all of us on here but yes Squeek, I agree - you can't give it an actual number....but you probably can assume it's harder than what you've done if it's the same style of climbing you're good at?
Anyway, it doubt it would rock the world of climbing if a Gaskins problem turned out to be a bit harder than it's orginal given grade!
* that's my monthly babble about climbing out of the way, I'll get back to talking about bikes and music instead.
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tyler was saying it tongue in cheek, and as a testament to the blind vision of gaskins. obviously if we compare it to new base log, pill box starts with a 9
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Tyler's 15, he tends to make throwaway comments like that. Obviously he doesn't really think its 8c, its just one of his sayings.
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I popped round to the pill box after a sesion in the cave last week. Having thought 'I've not tried this for a couple of years' I had aquick go at said Gaskins problem. 1st move + 2nd move piss, 3rd move V.hard (ie fell off), 4th move 8a by its self. V12/13? Well, its alot harder than anything I've ever done thats similar - Gaskins, you are de man. In the words of the Doyle "Its not fuckin' V13 is it!". Hardest 4 move V13/14 problem in Britain - well, Ive not seen MonkLife, but its harder than Kaizen...
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Nige told me that Gaskins problem at Little Font is like the Pil Box Problem in a roof! Il Pirata whilst also being the worst problem in Britain is also like pil box in a roof. Also with Gaskins ascent of Gossip i reckon its about time these problems were graded right.
:goodidea:
Pil Box Problem 8b+(yes i know he did it in a sesh)
Kaizen 8b+
At the Heart of it All 8c
Il Pirata 8c+
Little Font Problem 8c+
Before anyone casts me down this is all a bit tongue in cheek. These problems are all beyond my comprehension. Also good effort to CJD for pulling onto that hold on Pil Box (does this have a name?)
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The Pill Box is a great name.
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The Pill Box is agood name! Gaskins said he had one lined up but had'nt got round to naming it yet. Also, in the words of the G:
Isla - bottom end 13
Kaizen - bottom end 14
Il Pirata - top end 15
Heart of it... - bottom end 15
Walk away sitter - benchmark 15, stand up - good 13
Little font thing - V15 (says this whilst laughing).
Trowbarrow project - was V16 before the hold broke, since then he has done the move. :jaw: :alky: and again, starts laughing. ahem.
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Heart of it... - bottom end 15
Originally given V13/14.
Walk away...stand up - good 13
Originally V12/13.
Little font thing - V15 (says this whilst laughing).
Originally V14 (looks about V20 next to anything else, even other Gaskins stuff!).
Looks like a bit of a pattern there eh! Wouldn't be surprised at all if Pil Box thing turned out to be V13/14 or 8b/+ in the "mortal" scheme of things.
I agree with Doyle, maybe it is time that some of these problems were upgraded by popular vote, the grades at the minute give the misleading impression that Gaskins is climbing at a similar level of difficulty to several other top beasts, when realistically no-one is close. Usually not even close to pulling on! I sometimes worry that these problems will be passed over by the world scene as "just more very hard problems", when really they are a generation ahead of everything else. :o :wall: Recognise :bow:
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In was talking about that with nodder ther other day. The level at which Gaskins is climbing is way above anyone else. I know that these things have ben worked and are in his back yard, (same as any other top climber), but it does ma ke you think ie Katz and dunning go to sweitzerland and do all the moves on from the dirt grows the flowers (real v15) but could they do the moves on the little font thing - i doubt it. there is a big difference. sorry tyler for taking the subject away from your achievment - big ups young man, i've done bugger all for ages!
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Would quite like to keep banging on the Gaskins drum but Tyler just did Nuthin' But Sunshine 8b+, in 2 hours! (check out his 8a.nu). That is unbelievable. Totally totally world class, who else has ever done an 8b+ this quick? Only a handful of the worlds most famous climbers. 100% respect - go Ty! :beer2: :thumbsup:
P.S. With regard to Chris' Gaskins comments - I remember showing Katz Walk Away Sit Start (also real V15). He didn't try it cos it was wet, but he wouldn't have done the moves in a sesh. He said so himself! He said that no-one he had ever seen climb, not even M*****m S***h, would be able to do the stand up even. (Disclaimer - pure conjecture, but you get the idea!). Your usual V15 these days are power endurance problems, usually over ten moves, so the top climbers are just linking a couple of sections each worth 8b say, hence the substantial pool of the world's 8b climbers may be able to do all the moves, although couldn't link it. Gaskins stuff is short (e.g. Walk Away - 5 hand movements (of which only 3 are hard), one foot movement). The moves are correspondingly harder than jumping between some decent-ish granite holds for a while. Much harder. Lets hope Ty is the next generation and can do these problems without having to train specifically for a decade, otherwise we may have to wait even longer before repeats!
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looks like tyler will be carrying si's pads. back to school with you young man :spank:
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Would quite like to keep banging on the Gaskins drum but Tyler just did Nuthin' But Sunshine 8b+, in 2 hours!
Christ,I remember when Graham did NBTS, he regarded it as a very big deal and at the time it was sposed to be the hardest problem in the states. I think its generally regarded as as hard 8b over there now but still amazing to do it in two hours.I reckon by the time Si gets there Tyler will have plenty of groupies carrying his pads, it'll be like flies round shite
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I sometimes worry that these problems will be passed over by the world scene as "just more very hard problems"
I am absolutely sure these problems will be passed over completely by 'the world scene', and it won't be because they are undergraded.
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:bow:
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The level at which Gaskins is climbing is way above anyone else.
When you consider that a 15 year old boy is climbing at or around the perceived 'top level', this statement is easy to believe.
But again JB is totally right. Who is this john gaskins guy again...?
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He said that no-one he had ever seen climb, not even M*****m S***h, would be able to do the stand up even.
Whats happened to M*****m S***h? Still a monster?
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Watch out for throw away comments regarding 15 year olds - David Lama won the Austria round of the Bouldering world cup on Saturday (the first one hes been old enough to enter). Sounds like an OK effort 'til you see the list of waddage he beat! :bow:
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They will never beat our hair cuts though
(http://www.salzlager.at/image.php?image=/34_BoulderSemifinale_Grossbritannien_und_Nordirland/IMG_6071.JPG&pixel=450)
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Thats not a haircut. Its an illness.
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What do you know about haircuts :)
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any pictures of the little font problem?
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He's slowing down - Freshly Squeezed 8B took the lad 2 days.
Slacker.
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A tyler update hes just done his second 8b+ Freaks of Industry it took him all of two days and was the fourth ascent not bad going
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Nice. I reckon Circadium Rythm will be next.
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Bit hot in Poudre I think..... winter venue
What is next on the list will be the hardest in Colorado.
The Green 45 sit project in upper Chaos. Ty did the stand up V11 in few tries. Graham did the move on the sit project once in a number of sessions. Ty did the move in a session.
8C ish. amazing. Got some pics. i will post them if possible.
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There's a picture of the young buck on the project here http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5814 (http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5814)
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planetfear.com :
"Tyler Landman has rerurned from his US Road Trip with a hugely impressive tick list. He's gutted to be home, and a little disappointed not to have completed the project he spent so long working on (the Green45), but happy enough with the following list:
Stranger in a strange land - V12 - 30 mins. 1 day
European Human Being - V12 - 2nd day
Element of Surprise - V12 - First ascent. 2nd day
No More Greener Grasses - V12/13 - 2nd day
Reternia - V12 - 2nd day. 3rd ascent.
The Automator - V13 - 5th go. 1 day
Clear Blue Sky - V13 - 2hours. 1 day. 3rd ascent.
Freshly Squeezed - V13 - 2nd day
Skipper Roof Left - V13 - 2nd day. 3rd ascent.
Secret Splendour - V13 - First ascent. 2nd day
Nuthin But Sunshine - V13/14 - 2 hours. 1 day. Quickest ascent of problem.
Freaks of The industry - V14 - 2nd day. 4th ascent. Quickest ascent of problem.
Now lets hope for some cold weather in the UK for him to use his power!"
sounds like he had a very good trip indeed!
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I quit........... :o
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http://www.frontrangebouldering.com/videos/european.mov
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This is too vicarious for words...
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dirty little crimps up overhanging walls. no wonder he loves it :kiss2:
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Shit I'd hate to see the state of Ty's tendons by the time he can vote. :o
maybe I'm just jealous... OK fine I am just jealous.. and the fact that he's a nice guy as well...
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seems he did ok on the plastic too...
don't think this has been reported here but it seemes he held his own against some big names at the sendfest in SLC
:bow:
MEN'S FINAL RESULTS
1 Ethan Pringle 3785.00
2 Matt Bosley 3665.00
3 Chris Sharma 3495.00
4 Daniel Woods 3480.00
5 Tyler Landman 3395.00
6 Paul Robinson 3030.00
7 Obe Carrion 2985.00
8 David Marquess 2940.00
9 Mark Hobson 2670.00
10 Rob D'Anastasio 2665.00
11 Tyler Davis 2615.00
12 Tyler Haack 2560.00
13 Vasya Vorotnikov 2445.00
14 Brian Kim 2440.00
15 Mike Auldridge 2390.00
16 Jon Cardwell 2380.00
17 Chris Lindner 2360.00
18 B.J. Tilden 2320.00
19 Steven Jeffery 2170.00
20 Patrick Luther 1890.00
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MEN'S FINAL RESULTS
5 Tyler Landman 3395.00
11 Tyler Davis 2615.00
12 Tyler Haack 2560.00
I think I might change my name to Tyler, it seems that there is a clear link between being called Tyler and being very good at climbing. Obviously this link remains to be scientifically proven.
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Thought i'd resurrect this just in case everyone isn't as sad as me in checking 8a. From his scorecard Tyler has done an 8B first ascent in Horseshoe Canyone Ranch, called The Anti-Hero, a sit start to an existing line, and also Luther, an 8B in Hueco. 16 years old - boy is a beast! :bow:
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Another couple of 8B "Crown of Aragorn" 5th go, and " El Techo De Los Tres B." that he nearly flashed.