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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Bonjoy on December 03, 2008, 05:58:40 pm
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A few new things to report at Rivelin Quarry.
First off a clutch of useful warm-ups on natural bit of rock up and right of the Happy Campus area. The area is a couple of roofs, one big one little. There was some old chalk and signs of cleaning so I’d imagine these of similar lines have been done by others before me and Ben Pritch.
Boffwidth 6b – The Offwidth roof crack succumbs to laybacking and barring (no bridging out right). A tiny bit hemmed in but otherwise excellent. Jamming it all the way would be very hard indeed!
Mini Beak Rib 6b+ - Start low and climb the left arete of the smaller roof/prow. Standard rockover fare.
Mini Beak 6c+/7a – From the starting jug of MBR traverse the lip right to finish slapping up the RHS of the nose.
The main meat is back down in the Happy Campus/Nik’s Wall area.
Cheeks ‘n’ Beaks 7c – The steep undercut wall right of Happy Campus. Use gaston and undercut to get the decent diagonal edge, struggle to build feet up and spring for the distant finger rail. I finished rightwards at the break but you could very easily top out when dry. Cool moves, powerful and pully, but also fairly freaky and technical (unless your name’s Back-two Dan and you can crush it the basic way). I’m not super sure of the grade, maybe it’s only 7b+, either way it’s a mega problem and stays dry in light rain so will maybe get some more quick repeats to settle the grade.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/3079038249_1dd2510be6.jpg)
Cheers Dan for the pic. The arete holds are further away (out of reach) than is apparent in the photo.
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Nice one Dog Egg. Looks amazing.
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Looks great Jon, well done. I'll be down to try it soon. :beer2:
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Fuck yeah! Nice one.
Might try and get there tomorrow.
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I figured I could count on the Banks for a quick repeat. The beta line will be on standby
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Cheeks looks very good! Looks top, in fact. Keen to try.
The area is a couple of roofs, one big one little. There was some old chalk and signs of cleaning so I’d imagine these of similar lines have been done by others before me and Ben Pritch.
That was me n' Dave a few weeks ago. Didn't look to have been cleaned at all before. Anyway, we only did Mini Beak Rib.
Some other stuff to add to the Rivelin quarries circuit, done a couple of years ago. These problems are in the bay to the left and round the corner from Nik's Wall.
Greenbeard 7b - In the back left corner of the bay. From sitting (on the rock) dyno from the low flakes to the ledge. Finish on the obvious higher ledge. FA me. This is a cool problem. I did this with a step through jump, but it has also been done with more basic sequences (for both moves)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxc2sJn5na4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxc2sJn5na4)
On the boulder to the left of the bay:
Spudd Webb 7a+ - Dyno from the detached flake at the bottom to the top. FA Dave Mason.
Dribble 6a - Traverse left from a sitdown on the arete, finish in the same place as Spudd Webb. FA me.
And finally, on a boulder not far left of Master Kush, there's an uphill lip trav.
Galleon on Green 6c - Hang the tooth on the left, then traverse the lip rightwards, with footless moves round the arete, finishing by rocking up on the far prow. FA me.
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That's dynamite, I thought you were just having a sit down, next thing you're airborne.
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Sound like there's been quite a few strong climbes getting the Rivelin vibe of late so is there anything else to report?
Anything?
At all?
Anybody?
:whistle:
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Dan had a play on your wall, but was thwarted by thin skin and tip splittage. It's always looked desperate to me, I wouldn't be surprised if it was more than 8a.
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Just watched the clip an if it's where I think it is (and I think it is) then this problem needs continued attention or it will rapidly return to a very green state. Also, much as I hate to do this, you might not have done the FA....
Good name though, very apt.
(Cheers for update Bonjoy)
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nice work gooseface.
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Just watched the clip an if it's where I think it is (and I think it is) then this problem needs continued attention or it will rapidly return to a very green state. Also, much as I hate to do this, you might not have done the FA....
Good name though, very apt.
You're saying you might have done a class sidewards dyno but can't really remember?! Not that I'm too fussed if it's been done before, just a bit surprised if it has. The starting flake didn't look like it had been pulled on, and bits came off when we first tried.
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OK to be slightly more blunt I did this about 9(?) years ago. It is a nice problem when clean but without regular traffic will very soon be green and dirty again. I doubt this bay has had many visitors in the intervening years and I'm unsurprised that it looked unclimbed.
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That's more like it! Bluntness is generally a good thing. Perhaps not of the James variety.
Well, it may sadly be green again if the moss is that insistent - as it's two years since it last had a small flurry of ascents. Unless Bonjoy has done it recently - I think I did tell him about it. Quite easy to brush though, so this shouldn't put people off.
Any more little gems that might be worth seeking out?
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The routes, they are amazing.
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What's the best way for cleaning off thick green nastyness covering a sizeable area or even just greeness in general?
Stiff bristled yard brush for big areas? Bit of soapy water?
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Stiff bristled brush used on a wet day when the lichen is swollen with water and easily removed. Scrubbing dry rock rarely gets you anywhere, save reaching for a wire brush.
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Nik, I said little. I'll admit there are some mighty appealing bits of rock down that way, the sort that makes me wish I wasn't so scared of falling...
Oli, there are many types of green nastiness. Ideally, you want an arsenal of different tools. Large yard brushes will work for loose moss, leaf litter and dusty lichen, but not too much else. Kids plastic spades or wooden spoons make good scrapers, especially for moss. Pointy things are good for clearing cracks. Most lichen succumbs to stiff handbrushes, but is bloody hard work over large areas. Sometimes water makes lichen easier to remove, sometimes not. Slime clogs up brushes so its good to have several, then you can have a before and after brush. Ladders are a pain to carry in, but make cleaning so much easier.
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Some of the routes would be sot of highball-able with mats/spotters, sot of...
The boulder problem start to Cold School Closure is little.
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R-man - Good to hear someone else is well versed in the dark arts of advanced cleaning technique.
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That looks ace, nice one Bonners.
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All that knowledge was gained from one trip to Wilton ;)
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I have a serious brush arsenal now, but many of them wouldn't be usable on grit. Scrubbing down licheny areas with a bit of chalk on the brush seems to deter regrowth.
Probs look ace, good work.
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How advanced?
How does the lichen and moss feel?
:kiss1:
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Feel free to actually make a useful contribution to anything, any time. Patrul.
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Feel free to actually make sense, any time. Patrul.
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Fantastic moss coloured chalk bag! where can i get one of those bad boys. Good work snake eyes,
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i always thought cheeks 'm beaks was a reference to the down quality use in mountain equipment jackets. i think someone at rab told me that.
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Feel free to actually make sense, any time. Patrul.
:lol: :lol:
bless him, he is trying
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Feel free to actually make a useful contribution to anything, any time. Patrul.
Negative waves :thumbsdown:
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Had a nice day at Rivelin, finished off the problem I'd tried a while ago on the mini beak block.
Beak no Weevil 7a+/b - Sitstart on the right, no footholds below the break. Nice tensiony roof moves to gain the jug on the arete, then rock rightwards to the top. Made much more doable with cunning beta.
Feels similiar in difficulty to Captain Hook, but I could be wrong.
Incidentally, Moontan is hard! Found making the reach from the sidepull to left hand crimp desperate - anyone got any shorter person's sequences?
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Incidentally, Moontan is hard! Found making the reach from the sidepull to left hand crimp desperate - anyone got any shorter person's sequences?
I've got a video of me doing it somewhere. I'll try and upload it later, if I can find either the tape or the power cable to my external hard drive.
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Cheers Andy, that would be grand.
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After a crash course in botched compression I've managed to upload some poor quality raw footage of Moontan, the first and second ascents of Spud Webb and Greenbeard.
http://vimeo.com/2508296 (http://vimeo.com/2508296)
Hope that helps, Robin.
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Um...that's a private video at the moment, can't see it. Think you need to change the settings?
I checked the Bentley's prob vid and that's gone private too. :shrug:
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You need to change your permissions settings Paul (assuming it's your vid).
Go to the video page, click "settings" (top right), then "privacy". Change this to "public".
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oops. I hadn't noticed it was private last night, as I was still logged in to vimeo. It's hopefully public now.
You need to change your permissions settings Paul (assuming it's your vid).
???I'm called andy. The clue's in the user name. ;)
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Sorry Pete, I'm on nights and the brain ain't working.
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No problems George.
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All good stuff - Moontan looks like it has some pretty funky moves as does Greenbeard.
bluebrad
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Excellent, thanks! I did try that sequence on Moontan but dismissed it as too hard for 7a+. I'll try again!
The clip of Spudd Webb reminds me how much digging we had to do to unearth it! Happy days.
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After being in font and having my grade-gauge re calibrated I reckon CnB is 7b+. Any other opinions?
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7b or 7b+. great problem, better but easier than happy campus (still can't do it) for me at least.
on a similar note, Iain's Arete next to nix wall - three words:
What
The
Fuck
question?
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I remember when johnny footwork and el mocho did it or maybe robbins(I think they did - was some time ago), was some sort of weird lunge move for the top.
It looked very hard and total improbably
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After being in font and having my grade-gauge re calibrated I reckon CnB is 7b+. Any other opinions?
I'd agree with that dude. There must be a couple of different sequences on it as well. I reckon your way of doing it on the picture would be harder for the tall. I did it by spanning up with my left hand to the hold you have your right one on. :-\
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Yeah, i tried it like that to start with, going of the good hold as a gaston getting the crimp above with RH then reaching out left. I could static to a tiny edge at max reach like that but was too splayed out to get a thumb over on it to crimp let along pull on it.
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After being in font and having my grade-gauge re calibrated I reckon CnB is 7b+. Any other opinions?
I did CnB today and would say hard 7b for the sequence JC describes. That was the only way I could do it. Getting the good gaston as a sidepull for the RH and going up left from there as it was originally done seemed to be desparate and it might well be 7c or 7b+ this way. I found a good foot sequence on the lip for when I had the tiny RH crimp above the gaston using poor smears, making it non-reachy. I would say about the same grade as Happy Campus - excellent problem!!
(A video was done on a mobile phone and is currently being sorted - hopefully will be posted up soon!)
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I'm afraid I'm contractualy bound to ask if you tried anything else while in the area :whistle:
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BTW, was chalk on the first half/third of TML the other day. Stopped before what is presumably the crux. That landing really is toss isn't it.
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Nice work Ted. Keen to see how this other sequence works for none lanksters.
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The crux starts when the holds stop :) and no the landing aint great. But if someone could be arsed to shift the tree stump and then level the ground it would make a nice boulder problem. You could probably drive a mini-digger up there from the pub quite easily (no that isn't a serious suggestion).
Good that someone has been trying these things. This appears to be building up to something of a classic season of grit brilliance so maybe, just maybe...
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I'm afraid I'm contractualy bound to ask if you tried anything else while in the area :whistle:
I did have a snoop round. Was impressed by Nik's Wall, looks heinous! Greenbeard looked a bit dank TBH and rather distressingly, 3 inches of the undercut flake on Spudd Webb appeared to have recently snapped off - don't know if this affects it at all. BTW where is Moon Tan?
The relevant cable for the mobile phone is currently being searched for, so the vid might be up soon.
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Moontan is on the left end of the edge rather than in the quarry. It's a blackish wall left of a steep corner crack. If you are familiar with the routes it's just beneath Exit and Jaded.
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Nik, one could cut off some of the roots to make it a bit more amenable, I reckon six full pads and two spotters and it would start looking feasible. The quarries were in good nick the other day when the edges were covered in frost, and evidently good nick today when it was all a bit pissy. A classic season of Rivelin Quarry brilliance....maybe....
Kingy, Moontan is on the main edge, at the left of the main area, the crimpy wall just left of Kremlin Crack.
oh *snap* to you to bonusjoyus :P
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cheers guys, another one to go for!
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http://vimeo.com/2794802 (http://vimeo.com/2794802)
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As requested, Kingy, wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be.
I take it you crushed 'Happy Campus' too?
Good climbing today, hopefully see you out again soon.
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Am really psyched for CnB, good work Bonjoy.
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if anyone wants the beta for another way, start RH on obvious undercut at lip and lefthand on an undercut pocket-pinch combo hidden under the lip. from there RH goes up to the good corner sidepull, then Lh onto the little lower sidepull (now you're on the same holds as lovejoy but an easier setup), then put left foot on the jug block under the lip, right roof on obvious edge/smear above the lip, and pull/push for the good rail, jobs a good un.
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As requested, Kingy, wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be.
I take it you crushed 'Happy Campus' too?
Good climbing today, hopefully see you out again soon.
Cheers Nick thanks for sorting it so quickly, yeah got HC too although 'Happy right heel on edge' is probably a more appropriate title!
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Didn't anyone else top-out or was it just me? Shit myself trying to climb down as it was wet and slippery at the time. :oops:
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i went up to the jugs then jumped off. was all damp above when i first did it, infact even the jugs were wet. I was once there when cofe topped out happy campus, took him about 40minutes. life's too short.
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Kingy - Aha, you make it look really obvious. Can't believe I didn't try it that way. The meat of the difficulty for me was getting my left foot on a tiny edge 4 inches above my left hand. Why am I such a technical retard when it comes to FAs :-\ :-[? I always thought I was pretty good at finding the most deviously efficient beta on things. Seems not!
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Kingy - Aha, you make it look really obvious. Can't believe I didn't try it that way. The meat of the difficulty for me was getting my left foot on a tiny edge 4 inches above my left hand. Why am I such a technical retard when it comes to FAs :-\ :-[? I always thought I was pretty good at finding the most deviously efficient beta on things. Seems not!
Don't worry about it! It took me a little while to figure it out myself, that right foothold on the lip is pretty pants and is quite difficult to get your foot onto. I think the most important thing is the eye for a line in the first place and getting the thing climbed, everything else is just minor details!
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No Kingy you're wrong. I think we should castigate Bonjoy for intentionally inflating the grade just to gain publicity and sponsorship from these people.
http://www.geese.cc/ (http://www.geese.cc/)
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and castigate kingy for suggesting that bonjoy has an eye for a line. lowrider aside ;)
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No Kingy you're wrong. I think we should castigate Bonjoy for intentionally inflating the grade just to gain publicity and sponsorship from these people.
http://www.geese.cc/ (http://www.geese.cc/)
:lol: I wonder what happened to the goose theme, running like a golden thread through all these new boulder problems? ??? :-\
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Boffwidth 6b – The Offwidth roof crack succumbs to laybacking and barring (no bridging out right). A tiny bit hemmed in but otherwise excellent. Jamming it all the way would be very hard indeed!
Ha ha, red rag to a bull!
Went out today and did the crack in a pure jamming way (Thanks R-man for the directions), which was indeed quite a struggle! Really nice problem (although pretty damp today after the rain) and well worth it. Thanks for first ascenionist taking the effort to clean it up in the first place.
I'd say if you're into the whole offwidthing thing, it's about Font 7a in a pure jamming style. You'll feel like a right hero! It's very similar to the way in which Ray's Roof climbs so possibly good practice for anyone??
Here's a quick low quality clip for those interested.
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for a crack climber you're using a lot of arete there.
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for a crack climber you're using a lot of arete there.
Yeah, I know. But hey, what's a little bit of cheating here and there eh? ;)
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Tit!
I refer to myself, because having just watched Ted's beta I now realise I was trying completely the wrong thing, despite being certain I remembered the sequence in the video...
On to my second query then - how does one proceed once at the right hand crimp on Happy Campus? (having just done the campus move). Seemed easy enough to get there, but then I was a bit stumped.
Also tried to demonstrate Beak no Weevil, but it wasn't happening. Anyone else done this? I suspect it may be harder than 7a+.
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On to my second query then - how does one proceed once at the right hand crimp on Happy Campus? (having just done the campus move). Seemed easy enough to get there, but then I was a bit stumped.
seem to remember getting a left toe on round the corner and then coming into a LH guppy, right toe on, RH to good edge. know some people get LH guppy, right (?) foot on and go over again with LH to good edge.
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On to my second query then - how does one proceed once at the right hand crimp on Happy Campus? (having just done the campus move). Seemed easy enough to get there, but then I was a bit stumped.
I've never managed to get any further than that crimp, despite being fine to get there (skin permitting). the guppy beta just doesn't work at all for me, i may as well hold my left hand behind my back and try and 1-arm my way to the jug. the other thing i've tried is matching on the crimp rail, but still can't seem to do anything with my feet to go for the jug which works. if you find any good non-guppy beta i'll be glad to hear it.