UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: GCW on May 09, 2009, 10:13:01 pm

Title: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 09, 2009, 10:13:01 pm
Clearing out my hard drive I came across a few pics I had knocking about, so thought I'd share them with you.  There out on the web somewhere, but here they are collected together for the worship of Johnny G.

Enjoy :lol:

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Gaskins-011.gif)

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Gaskins-021.gif)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Drew on May 09, 2009, 10:32:37 pm
 :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag: :shag:
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Oli on May 09, 2009, 10:43:27 pm
 :bounce: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bounce:
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: yorkshireman on May 12, 2009, 10:56:38 am
gaskins=legend :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: chummer on May 12, 2009, 06:20:03 pm
A prilgrim on a pilgrimage..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFM5o3j6YU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFM5o3j6YU)

legend.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: St Hubbins on May 12, 2009, 07:28:50 pm
Ain't it the truth!
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Pantontino on May 13, 2009, 10:44:53 am
I reckon some of that Gaskins magic rubbed off on Doylo when he touched the holds on Shadow Play - he did his route project on the Ormes last night (new F8a+ left of Masterclass).

You might call that a coincidence, I call it magic Gaskins energy!
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: TomP on May 13, 2009, 11:13:55 am
Don't suppose you could up load some of the best pics so we can see them for more than a second. Good thread
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 11:14:26 am
Yeah, I'll trawl through stuff when I get home.
Any requests?
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: TomP on May 13, 2009, 11:24:00 am
Nice one:
At the heart of it all - fo sho
Kaizen
In fact most Woodwell stuff
Anything cool
Cheers
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Oli on May 13, 2009, 11:40:43 am
Have you got a copy of God on VNB as well? I remember seeing a DMM poster with a picture of him on it, that was quite good.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 11:59:25 am
No, it used to be online somewhere but I've tried and failed to find it in the past.  Sorry.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 08:40:52 pm
Outside of Silverdale


Darkness Before The Dawn  8a+
Glendasan, Wicklow

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/darkness2.jpg)



Brad's Arete SDS 
Eagle Tor

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/brads_arete.jpg)



Atomic Playboy 8a+
Buthiers Piscine

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/atomic_playboy.jpg)



Pillbox Wall 8a+/b
Great Orme

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Pillboxwallgaskins500.jpg)



8Ball 8a+/b
Gardom's

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/eight_ball.jpg)



Le Miroir des Vanités   8b
Cuvier Rempart

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/miroir_des_vanites.jpg)



Not sure what this is but I seem to remember it's easier than 7c  :shrug:

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/un-named.jpg)

Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 08:45:56 pm
Silverdale 1- Fairy Steps


Axiom 7c+ (sitter 8a+)

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/574.jpg)



Aeons
8a+

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/aeons.jpg)



Aeon Prow 7c+

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/gaskins_p06.jpg)



Walk Away SDS 8c

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/570.jpg)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 08:51:19 pm
Silverdale 2- Woodwell


At The Heart Of It All 8b+

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/561.jpg)

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Attheheartofitall.jpg)



Screaming Slave LH 7c

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/571.jpg)



Cloning Technology 8a+

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/cloning_technology.jpg)



Some warm up or other

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/gaskins_p01.jpg)



Anesthesia Reverse 8b+

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/gaskins_p04.jpg)




Anesthesia 8b

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/gaskins_p05.jpg)



Kaizen 8b

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/kaizen01.jpg)

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/kaizen02.jpg)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 08:55:54 pm
Montage- Walk Away, Hubble, JG's head cropped from shot of him on Militia at Giggleswick

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/JG01.jpg)




Silverdale 3


Shallow Groove 8a
Trowbarrow

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Gaskins.jpg)



Isla de Encanta 8b
Trowbarrow

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/isla_de_encanta.jpg)




Voodoo People 7b
Warton

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/gaskins_p02.jpg)



Transgenic 8a
Hyning Wood

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/gaskins_p07.jpg)

Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: r-man on May 13, 2009, 09:09:08 pm
Some more from the last time we did this (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4712.0.html):

(http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/Html/portada/portada/noticia12_1.jpg)
Violent New Breed 9a+

Quote
John Gaskins completed Violent New Breed (9a+, or 5.15a) at the G-Spot, in Gigleswick, England. Gaskins bolted the route in 1993 and worked on it for the following two summers; in 1995, he spent roughly 50 days traying to master it. 1996 looked to be the year of the redpoint, until Gaskins discovered that one of the holds, a subtly glued-back-on crimp, had been knocked off, with the words "Tut tut" chalked onto the crag, and lost interest. In 2000, he returned, and bested the move without the edge. In 2004, Gaskins redpointed the bouldery 20-foot line.

(http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/wowprow.jpg)
Wow Prow Project, Glenmacnass

(http://www.theshortspan.com/photo/noDice.jpg)
Dice Project, Glenmacnass
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 09:12:27 pm
Awesome, more for the collection  :thumbsup:

I tried and failed to get the VNB pic, good work Man of Lists!!
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: nik at work on May 13, 2009, 09:15:44 pm
I'm fucking loving this thread, keep it coming...
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 09:21:33 pm
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/un-named.jpg)

Presumably that's the "Un named 7b in Ireland" that won't link anymore on your old thread?
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: chillax on May 13, 2009, 09:28:28 pm
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/un-named.jpg)

Presumably that's the "Un named 7b in Ireland" that won't link anymore on your old thread?

Definitely looks like wicklow. Pretty sure its not Glendo. Could be Away From The Numbers in Lough Bray?
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: matthew on May 13, 2009, 09:33:57 pm
Are there no video's of him crushing? Without video evidence he might just be holding on for the photo (I don't mean that, I am a true believer really). I just want video's of him to watch as I do my dead hangs....
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 09:40:44 pm
That would involve illegally ripping Stick It.....   :-\
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Fiend on May 13, 2009, 10:21:39 pm
PRAISE G.


Thanks for putting the single shots up, the gif idea was pretty bollox.

Need to get a large version of the VNB pic, it is pure G magic....
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on May 13, 2009, 10:27:48 pm
Thanks for putting the single shots up, the gif idea was pretty bollox.

It was to avoid having a full page of photos that would take ages to load.
Still a valuable G Worship idea though, just a shame you ain't got the dedication to appretiate it.
And you think Surfer Rosa is shit- hmmmm, I feel a non-believer walks amongst us!   :o
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Fiend on May 14, 2009, 09:24:46 am
I worship at the G Altar Of Ultimate Strength, not the G Catacomb Of Inverse Quality ;)

He has done some vaguely inspiring stuff that ISN'T El Pirata. WAss, VNB, Pillbox, Ilsa De Thingy...
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: TomP on May 14, 2009, 09:33:33 am
Great work with the photos!!!! Particularly like At the Heart of It All and Walk Away SDS cos you see him pulling but you know they are almost impossible.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Dave Flanagan on May 14, 2009, 10:12:19 am
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/un-named.jpg)

Presumably that's the "Un named 7b in Ireland" that won't link anymore on your old thread?

Definitely looks like wicklow. Pretty sure its not Glendo. Could be Away From The Numbers in Lough Bray?

I take it then you have never been to Lough Bray? Its 2.4 Pascals, 7aish, Glendalough.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: chillax on May 14, 2009, 07:27:25 pm
Shit, how did I not peg that? Must be a funny angle on the boulder or something...  :oops:
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2009, 10:55:32 pm
you lot been over to 8a recently? bocks fan club dissing our hero again...
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: r-man on June 02, 2009, 11:07:14 pm
Fight! Fight! Fight! Brilliant,  this plugs a gap in my life experience. I've always felt like I was missing something not being into football.

Quote from: someone silly from 8a.nu
a little bit gossip ;-)...there was great doubt in the repetition of john gaskins. he war's a noname and came to frankenjura and climbed one of the hardest bouldering-problem this time in the world and the hardest in germany, without proof camera or witnesses. markus bock showed him how the moves go and he could not even make the moves with assistance. after hard bouldering three days, he said that he had made gossip. very strange........

Oooh, doesn't it just make your blood boil...  :wall:  :lol:



Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Oli on June 02, 2009, 11:12:19 pm
Can someone with an 8a.nu account offer one of their wads to come and try Hubble?
Oh, hang on a minute...
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Ru on June 03, 2009, 03:46:19 pm
Just seen the discussion on 8a.nu. There's one post by someone who states that numerous people have seen Gaskins warm up on Hubble and trying Brandenburg Gate. I just want to inject some balance into the reporting of his achievements before we end up in a land of hearsay.

I did Make it Funky one of the summers that he was trying Brandenburg Gate (2002?), and was getting to the Tor early doors to catch the cool temps. More often than not at 8.30 in the morning Gaskins was either packing up having got there several hours earlier, or having his final attempts on the route. I chatted to him and Nicola regularly and saw him attempt Brandenburg Gate a lot that summer. It was after one of these days that I think it was reported that he'd either done Hubble again or been on it again, and thought it easy when compared to the project. Certainly he told me something similar himself on one day, but I can't remember the detail.

This has subsequently mutated into "numerous people have seen him warm up on Hubble". I'd be happy to be wrong, but I'm not aware that that's true.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 03, 2009, 03:50:39 pm
How close did he look to doing the project when you saw him on it Ru?
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: r-man on June 03, 2009, 04:39:02 pm
Just seen the discussion on 8a.nu. There's one post by someone who states that numerous people have seen Gaskins warm up on Hubble and trying Brandenburg Gate. I just want to inject some balance into the reporting of his achievements before we end up in a land of hearsay.

Unfortunately the whole thing is rooted in the land of hearsay. For instance, one of Bock's arguments against Gaskins's ability involves rumours he heard about him on Hubble.

Quote
Als ich vor einigen Wochen in England war und Lokals wie Ben Moon nach
John Gaskins fragte, kam mir zu Ohren das Ihm wohl nicht alle die Be-
gehung von HUBBLE abnehmen.Jerry Moffatt hat Ihn damals eine Woche
vor seiner angeblichen Begehung von HUBBLE in der Tour gesehen, als
er die Züge nur mit starkem Seilzug klettern konnte.

A real shame this whole thing ever happened. It does sound like sour grapes on Bock's part.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: carlisle slapper on June 03, 2009, 04:45:17 pm
Hey Ru

sorry that was me getting pissed at stupid foreign people speaking with the confidence of ignorance, i was thinking more of Dunning, pritch and Stu, having all seen him pull hard at the tor, there are more but i need to remember when i spoke to them or if it's 2nd hand. Think Steve is the one who saw John pull on from the crux undercuts and waltz to the top after a brief jaunt on the sardine area(will check but am fairly sure), in that old OTE article it say how his essentially non climbing brother did the moves too (in bransby eigg issue - best issue ever). Didn't realise you were there too Ru, Stu says your calling BS on shadowplay? boo to that i say, although i am only just realising how it might be possible. I've also realised that most peoples training must be around 90% not on underclings, where as john's must be more on underclings (poorly phrased, apologies) therefore we (general bouldering types) are naturally going to be shite and poorly equipped to try it. Dunning is also a monster on underclings, which is probably why second coming is so bloody desperate too.

Micky did LW by a better sequence t'other day too, going to sidepull RH and back down to undercling LH then upto pocket. This is a a slightly more efficient way of climbing it (will still be harder than torniquet i'd guess) and also sounds like a cool sequence. (just incase you don't fancy ruining your tips on that razor crimp)

Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 03, 2009, 05:05:49 pm
Quote from: Babelfish Bock
When I was several weeks ago in England and asked restaurant such as Ben Moon for John Gaskins, me to ears him probably everything did not come going from HUBBLE to decrease. Jerry Moffatt saw it at that time one week before its alleged committing of HUBBLE in the route, when he could climb the courses only with strong push pull cable.

:lol:

Seriously, I've asked the Shadowplay question a few times on here and never got an answer.

As in, I thought I heard that it might have been an elaborate "fuck you" type wind up in response to Bock's toy chucking and doubting allegations? The fact that John gave it a lower grade than some of his other problems which have turned out to be more feasible fitting in with the theory.

Personally I would think this unlikely having climbed with John a fair bit (albeit years ago) but I'm sure someone told me that this was a rumour doing the rounds a while back.

Anyone?  :shrug:
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Ru on June 03, 2009, 05:10:26 pm
No, I'm not calling BS on Shadowplay, its just like everyone else who sees it I had trouble reconciling it with everything else I've seen climbing wise over the years. It's clearly at another level and one that I have difficulty comprehending at a grade that's anywhere near what its given, indeed have some trouble comprehending at all. But I don't think John would invent an ascent, otherwise why not claim Brandenburg Gate after trying it for 2 years?

I think the "Shadowplay was a wind up" rumour was just that.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 03, 2009, 05:35:23 pm
Thanks Ru.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: a dense loner on June 03, 2009, 07:33:00 pm
don't really want to speak for benpritch but i think he's filming in the valley at the moment. ben saw john working brandenburg gates and said he moved up the rock like a gecko and he couldn't really believe what he was seeing. his impression of john climbing it is fantastic, especially if you've both had a few beers.

not that this means anything except that john was moving up BG like a gecko
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on June 03, 2009, 09:52:53 pm
Came across this (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2008/12/enigma-that-is-gaskins.html):

Quote from: Bjorn Pohl
If rumors are to be believed, John Gaskins is the strongest boulderer on the planet. His top three FA:s; Walk away sd, Il Pirata and Shadowplay, all 8C and all unrepeated, are supposed to be futuristic, if not impossible, and at least one notch above everything else. In fact, grades seem to be quite relative when it comes to Gaskins, as most of his FA:s above 8A remain unrepeated. Tyler Landman, one of the strongest boulderers in the world, says the hardest thing he's ever tried was one of Gaskins' 8A/B's... But is it really possible for one man to be so much ahead of everyone else? If so, HOW is it possible? I'd really like to ask the man, but since I and 8a.nu screwed up a few years back, he doesn't want to talk to me... What went wrong? Well, it seems we didn't play our cards right in the whole Gossip-controvercy, and, regrettably, in the end the man was deeply offended, even though we made clear we believed the accusations to be groundless... Anyway, let's not get into that.

Another question is why none of the top climbers step up to the challange and try his harder problems. Sure, the lines might not be the most attractive, but still.

Here's a description (by Nigel?) of Il Pirata, from the time of the ascent:
From what I remember of my several "looks" at this outrageous line, it starts matched on a fairly good edge, which is however nails to pull up on. Oh yeah, no footholds. In a roof by the way. Then it lashes out with the left hand absolutely miles to a tiny two finger divot. (It says on Greg's site that John used an intermediate on the way. All I can imagine is that its intermediate between existing and not existing, 'cos there's fuck all there.) This divot is utterly shite, literally 2 fingerTIPS. Can I just re-emphasise that this is a roof. And there are no footholds. Now all you have to do is whip your right hand out fucking light years to the next, OK-ish edge. Quite how this movement is generated is beyond me (no footholds!), but the real headfuck is how you end up still on the rock when you hit it, and not on your arse! There is no option to cut loose, so its another Gaskins body tension victory. Then by the sounds it gets the lip of the boulder in the left hand really low down and commits a rising traverse of the lip up to the obvious finishing jug of the 'V8 slap'. Like John says, this bit is OK. As a bit of extra interest, when I was contacting John last year (the year before the ascent that is) about his problems for the "South Lakes Bouldering History" on Lakesbloc, I asked why he had not yet done this cave start to the V8 slap (since it was always assumed that this is where it would finish). The reason was that while trying it a few years ago he broke a hold and it became much worse (the two finger crock of shite I think). After this he had not since been able to hold the positions anymore since he couldn't hang the holds. Bear in mind that this was around the time that he climbed Walk Away, so he wasn't weak. Now he has done the problem. Fucking hell.

If you know anything about the Gaskins, I'd really like to hear about it, and John, in the unlikely case you read this, drop me a line, please.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: JohnH on June 03, 2009, 10:21:47 pm
More on Bjorn Pohl's blog - http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2009/06/gossip-gossip.html (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2009/06/gossip-gossip.html) , nice to see a bit of balance.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on June 03, 2009, 10:56:08 pm
Just for posterity, copied it here:

Quote from:  Bjorn Pohl
The words "can" and " worms" come to mind, but as it's already opened, I might as well add a couple of bits and pieces to the story.

Quote from: Markus Cock
Markus: "1. On monday 05.07.2005 I showed him GOSSIP and the sequence how to climb it. JOHN tried it then for 1 1/2h, but doesn't climb any of the hard moves. I stayed with him all the time. Also I have gave him some powerspot, but also with less weight NO CHANCE. 2. I asked him per shortmassage about his different sequence. He told me it, but it's not different. MICHL KAISER (he climbed a lot of hard boulders here) tried this sequence for a while in the last 2 years, he is 185cm tall and said that he missed 10 cm to reach the next hold. JOHN is about 172 tall! 3. I climbed with him all the day.before we stayed at a place with a 8A trav..He tried the moves in the traverse,and he has had problems to do the crux-moves. 4. He told me at Monday morning that he climbed ZERBERUS 8B+ at the morning in 1h.After I have seen him in Gossip, I stopped at ZERBERUS and asked him how he has done the moves: It turned out after some minutes that he climbed a 7C Boulder there, which is directly right to ZERBERUS. 5. After that,I showed him some other hard stuff and he told me by the way that he has also done RIOT ACT 8B+ in one day (the day he arrived in Frankenjura, Tuesday 29.06.2005) I write you this before any news report from JOHN about his "success" arrived you. And I write in the name of all who have done hard stuff here and tried GOSSIP for long time. We are all the same opinion: ITS NOT POSSIBLE THAT HE HAS DONE IT."

Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on June 03, 2009, 10:57:24 pm
Quote from: Our Lord G
John: "Thanks for contacting me although I also have to say I was a bit surprised to receive this email. I spent an afternoon with Markus whilst he climbed. After that he showed me where Gossip was (I had been climbing that morning so I didn't climb that afternoon, then I briefly tried Gossip in the evening although by that time I was far from focused especially given that my {non climbing} wife and I had been out climbing for about 9 hours and I knew that she wanted to go). In the subsequent days I worked out a totally different (and for me easier) sequence to that which Markus had used and had had me trying that initial evening. Indeed on the day I climbed the problem I found a further refinement to my sequence that was for me the key to my success especially when allied to that mornings good conditions and the fact that I climb better first thing in the morning (I generally climb a number of grades harder before lunchtime than I do after). We also discussed Riot Act, where we had both used virtually identical sequences. After that I exchanged a couple of texts (SMS), at no point did Markus raise this issue with me. Regarding Zerberus I'm really puzzled. As Markus knows I was misinformed as to the exact line of the problem and hence didn't actually climb it, although prior to discovering this misinformation over the line I thought I had climbed it. As regards other things, both in my local area and elsewhere, various people have seen me either doing them or doing all the moves whilst working them. Indeed I have shown people the moves on many of these things by climbing them (the individual moves) after my ascents. In addition there is video footage of me climbing (i.e. linking all the moves together) on most of my hardest "sends". Certainly at this point in time I have nothing to gain from claiming things I haven't done. I am not, and never have, tried to build a reputation etc indeed I will very soon move on to concentrate on my work career. I did the problems (in the Frankenjura) purely for myself, as with everything that I have done. Indeed when I first started trying most of my hardest problems (i.e. those in my local area), bouldering was not a major activity. I am saddened that people now wish to maliciously claim, without any foundation, that I have not climbed these things when I have worked hard over many years, both in terms of training time and also the physical number of days trying these things prior to completing them."
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on June 03, 2009, 10:58:42 pm
Quote from: Our Lord G
John: "I've just looked at what you've written/published, more specifically Markus' comments. Re. Zerberus: The line I climbed (as Markus knows) was neither the 7C nor Zerberus, rather it was a line in between the 2 and using holds of both. To me this was the central line (which was the line I had been told Zerberus was, whereas Zerberus is really left of centre). Markus appears to be being deliberately misleading people regarding this problem to support his story. The reach thing on Gossip is rubbish, it really is not that far between the holds, although very good body tension is a prerequiste. The distance is certainly less, and on better holds, than between the holds on my own problem, At the Heart of it All (Woodwell) which also crosses a roof. I would not say meeting at 2:30 in the afternoon is climbing all day with someone. Whilst my only attempt on the 8A was an attempted flash. I could continue but I have no interest in a "one side says this, another that argument", merely I wish to add perspective to Markus' comments which have, at best, minimal foundation in what actually happened, whilst most are totally inaccurate. P.S. Markus has put the wrong year on his dates (2005 rather than 2004). Also the date of my ascent of Riot Act is wrong, as also is his assertion that I climbed Riot Act the day I arrived in the Frankenjura."


Quote from: Bjorn Pohl
The only reason I write about this again, is that I think it would be dead wrong if only one side of the story gets heard. Personally, I believe John did the 2nd ascent of Gossip. What possible reason would he have had to lie about such a thing? What could he gain from it? Remember he never made his Frankenjura ascents public in any way. I contacted him, not the other way around.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 04, 2009, 08:11:35 am
Lest we forget, didn't Bock accuse Rosta Stefanek of bullshitting about repeating various routes and problems. The same kind of accusations levelled at John: He wasn't strong enough, shit conditions would have made it impossible etc etc.

All very well except Stefanek then went and climbed some really hard shit in Font in front of witnesses in the middle of summer and produced video evidence of him doing a 9a route.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Plattsy on June 04, 2009, 03:10:07 pm
you lot been over to 8a recently? bocks fan club dissing our hero again...

Can't find the thread on 8a (is it hiding under an unrelated name?). Can someone please do the honours and point an imbecile at it.

Mucho thanko.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 04, 2009, 03:18:43 pm
Can't link straight to it but if you go to the forum it's this thread.......

Forum: GLOBAL / News / 8C by Markus Windisch

Not much to it really. Just some idiots (who've never heard of John) mouthing off and Dan putting them in their place.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Nibile on June 04, 2009, 03:30:37 pm
well, i've had the honour of being introduced to one of g's testpieces (pill box) by masters of ceremonies of the cult doylo and monolith.
i don't need any video evidence to believe he ripped the 'jura apart.
when you have a very specific style of climbing like in the 'jura, you tend to think you master that style. well it's simply not true, there are many other strong mofos that can shove your style up your...

we have similar shit going around italy as well, regarding the finale ligure area. the grades are supposed to be very hard there (and probably are) but because the style is very rare (vertical stuff). the grading policy is a complete mala fides affair there.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on January 09, 2010, 08:53:11 pm
Another one (or so it seems). (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=133068)


EDIT:  And others (http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?climber=gaskins&nstart=0)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: r-man on January 21, 2012, 08:47:21 pm
Following the links from http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2012/01/old-article-nine-of-best-unclimbed.html (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2012/01/old-article-nine-of-best-unclimbed.html)

FA of John's Problem, Wow Prow boulder
Glenmac files part 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpSpzyKspfc#)

Working the unclimbed Wow Prow
Glenmac files part 4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGJsjW28FFI#)

Working the unclimbed Dice Rib
Glenmac files part 5 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuTTR6zIy8g#)

Joker
Glenmac files part 6 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VShjxD6KE#)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Robsons on July 04, 2012, 09:55:31 am
Except for the shit talking on 8a, it's good to come back and look at the pic/vids on this thread every now and again!!! Legend
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: r-man on November 08, 2012, 07:49:54 pm
Just stumbled on a couple that aren't in this thread, then googled and found some more...

Hubble 8c+ (bigger version of the small one on page 1)
(http://static.desnivel.com/images/2005/04/27/gaskins_hubble_megagrip.jpg)

Isla de Encanta 8B
(http://static.desnivel.com/images/2004/02/26/gaskins.jpg)

Aeons 8A
(http://www.megagrip.co.uk/cairn_images/matb.jpg) (http://www.megagrip.co.uk/cairn_images/matc.jpg)

Beauty of Being Numb 7B
(http://www.megagrip.co.uk/cairn_images/mata.jpg)

"John on 'Replicant' V14 project"
(http://www.megagrip.co.uk/cairn_images/matd.jpg)

And I'm reposting this one, because it got lost in the waffle of page 2.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_g6SLrltOzxI/TP5fIS_HRKI/AAAAAAAAABU/4LCd1XVTChQ/s320/Click+Here+to+Win+Button.jpg) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?climber=gaskins&nstart=0)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: biscuit on November 08, 2012, 09:02:23 pm
He is a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: douglas on November 08, 2012, 09:22:05 pm
What has G done in the Cave? He must have visited the Orme to climb on the Pill Box.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on November 09, 2012, 07:11:07 am
What has G done in the Cave? He must have visited the Orme to climb on the Pill Box.

Has his Pill Box problem had a repeat?
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Nibile on November 09, 2012, 07:22:28 am

Has his Pill Box problem had a repeat?
Years ago I was visiting The Orme with my fiancee of the moment, Marilyn Monroe. I bumped into Gaskin's problem by accident, but the line immediately attracted me. Unfortunately I was there for a sport climbing trip, I had onsighted The Indian Face the day before as a rest day after doing Hubble in a session, so I did not have any bouldering mat.
When I was thinking "This one will have to wait", who did I see walking up with a couple of pads? No less than Elvis Presley himself.
While The King was warming up - it took hom quite a while to change into climbing cloths, I quickly dispatched Johnny's problem.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2012, 08:06:19 am
Wow. I'm all shook up. Uh huh huh.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Nibile on November 09, 2012, 08:36:50 am
 ;D
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Doylo on September 06, 2013, 10:54:56 am
Gone Are the Days of The G (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ak6nRL96b-k#)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: neilpearsons on September 06, 2013, 11:13:48 am
Very god Mr Doylo :)
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: JackAus on September 06, 2013, 11:45:47 am
I've come to the conclusion that Garth is our version of the G. :D
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: fatneck on September 06, 2013, 12:08:08 pm
Boss! Can't get the song out of my head!
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: andy_e on September 06, 2013, 12:12:19 pm
It moves me to tears every time I hear it.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: GCW on September 06, 2013, 12:16:40 pm
The G will never be gone.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Andy W on September 06, 2013, 12:42:53 pm
Gone Are the Days of The G (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ak6nRL96b-k#)

Very good, postmodern homage, emotional yet ironical.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Monolith on September 06, 2013, 01:10:33 pm
Delightful as I find the song, the G is - I yearn to believe - still on his temporary fell running hiatus. Please be the case G  :'(
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: dave on September 06, 2013, 09:26:09 pm
Gone Are the Days of The G (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ak6nRL96b-k#)

The G, the fucking G.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: abarro81 on September 06, 2013, 09:32:30 pm
You're all nuts. Nice singing though.
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: Boredboy on September 06, 2013, 09:46:09 pm
Sacrilegious genius
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: rich d on September 07, 2013, 10:31:16 am
According to this http://www.thewarningsecondcoming.com (http://www.thewarningsecondcoming.com) we've not got too long before the G ( :ang:) returns from the fell running wilderness.

Although There's more rules for his return than for the calling of he grit!
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: mindfull on December 16, 2013, 04:17:52 pm
Hope in the upcoming interview to see some statements about how he compares his grading to the probs in font an Frankenjura. I remember him mentioning that the sequence he used for gossip(8C???) (which was deemed as impossible by Bock) was much easier than "At the Heart of It All".
At least Malc has given his opionions (PlanetFear) about what he thought was the topend level of bouldering.
And the Hubble controvery (8c+ or 9a). These days the person who climbed A.D. and in the meantime while not repeating like all of the 9th grade routes, flash/onsight them and establishing a new grade is quite honest in his opinions. And he even did not succeed in one of the moves ....

You sandbagging Brittish punters!!!
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: tomtom on December 16, 2013, 04:41:52 pm
I think Hubble has been given 9a in the new/upcoming guide... fairly sure it was mentioned in the Ben Moon interview....
Title: Re: The John Gaskins Appreciation Thread
Post by: mindfull on December 16, 2013, 05:15:02 pm
I know ... about the mention of Hubble being 9a in the gradebook.

It's just that I wanna know the opinions of the top in difficulty climbing what they think of the more "commercial" graded problems.
Adam Ondra also mentioned and repeated Gioia, and gives credit to Core for 8C+.
In the meantime, in Belgium, we have a person (e.g. Muriel lately) who ticked 9a.

UK, Belgium, Italy are not doing much super hard numbers, but in the quality and most of history of the lines, were quit good I would think: Moon, Moffat, Smith, Gaskins, Sarkany, Micha Van Houd, Core, Manolo, Haston, ...

The least we can say is that most of these ascents were of a very awkward nature, but so high quality!
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