UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: rsp123 on April 28, 2022, 09:26:02 pm
-
Anyone know what the line is for this?
The description talks about two good pockets but the only two I can see are the ones used for the Unnamed and I'm not sure these are in.
The description for the high start on UKC says left-hand on undercut and right hand on the lip. Is this the right way around? I've not tried the low start yet but I would have read it as right hand in the undercut and big throw to the lip.
https://youtu.be/hvxH2D6KQ0g
This is how I tried the high start. Feels like it is encroaching on Unnamed/very eliminate as would have been a lot easier to bump the left hand to the large hold used on Unnamed.
-
We were having this exact discussion yesterday. I don't have a definitive answer, but decided on, left hand on very small crimp to right of the unnamed hand jug. Right hand in undercut. Left heel on unnamed hand jug. Pull on. Come into another tiny crimp at the same height as the LH crimp.
Rock like fuck for the pocket.
It'll be stiff at 7A rocking off those two crimps but it only touches the unnamed line with the heel and only the right hand side of it.
It felt a world harder than the unnamed but then the unnamed feels about 6C/+ so makes sense.