UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on June 11, 2007, 12:31:07 am
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At one point Dense turned to me and said: "This is great, but obviously don't tell anyone that I said that." So I've left that bit out of the report:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=280
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Sounds like a top weekend all round.
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That harvey oswald sitter looks very good climbing. Sounds like a bon weekend wish i could of made it!
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i'm now unable to view north wales bouldering at work as it is a blocked site.
went to the cromlech boulders on sat with swanny and the cowl but being as we're from yorkshire and anti social we managed to avoid bumping into anybody. :whistle:
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Sounds like a great weekend... despite being on holiday nearby I was unable to make it along (family commitments and other stuff..). Simon - I'll drop the Lleyn mining pamphlet into the shop for you this coming weekend as I'm in the Pass for a stag-do.
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For everybody that couldn't make it, don't worry, we'll probably do another one in the autumn.
Webbo, I have just had the biggest web stats week on NWB.com ever - was that all down to you!
FD - looking forward to seeing it.
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no you went off the other week.the same time they blocked youtube.
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Last summer we cleaned up the Einstein v8+ line (though there wasn't much to clean up ;) ), but got driven off by the midges, we were using a dodgy flake for feet - didn't think it'd hold up to much use though!
Mat's method looks ace, have to make a trip up there to send our other projects from last summer before someone strong ticks them!
Nice work by CJD, can't see why it never been done before - the campus traverse line around the top of that lip, trying to avoid sitting down on the chair shaped boulder near the end is good fun too.
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no you went off the other week.the same time they blocked youtube.
On what basis do they block websites - a certain number of visits?
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looks like a good weekend was had, shame I had to leave early
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Cracking weekend although my training guru keeps telling me 'being fat weak and drunk is now way to go through life son'.
So next time it will be different (and i'll remember the scotch).
The drive home only took 5 1/2 hours :furious:
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And you left your 5.10 Mocca's with a bunch of scousers. Needless to say, they were 'taxed off' for you back to Lpool.
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Although the monolith and myself turned up late on the Saturday, the Sunday was a good laugh along with today, hidden under the roadside trying to avoid the sheep shit rivers for an hour :-[
Looking forwards to a Lakes meet or Wales pt2!
(p.s. Sloper... I have the red shoes and chalkbag, will post for £10 in unmarked coins ;))
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no you went off the other week.the same time they blocked youtube.
On what basis do they block websites - a certain number of visits?
no because it might be any of the following.
offensive
sexual
illegal
harmful to our computor systems
not appropriate for business :whistle:
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Sounds like the meet was a jolly good bash. Nice to meet a few people on Sunday, though I wasn't around for long. Wish I'd got involved with the Friscan merriments, though I was a bit knackered from Saturday in the cave.
Few questions:
1. Where exactly do Room to swing a Katz and the other one go? Do they both sitstart up the same line to the left of the cave? The guide confused me a little, and I've talked to others who are also uncertain. Is the line to the right a recent addition?
2. How has James Pond gone from V8 to V7 to V6? Seems to suit some people better than others, but it felt V7 to me when I last did it.
3. How on earth do you start Arachnophobia? Guide mentions left hand poor undercling, right hand good. Does this mean matching the long undercling, or is left hand much lower left. Couldn't pull on with any of these though - what's the trick?
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More importantly, who is it that has those sideburns? good grief
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More importantly, who is it that has those sideburns? good grief
The most famous sideburns in the northwest? I'll leave it to him to come along and own up to them.
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Haha, sideburns which an Elvis Impersonator would be proud of? .............I know who you mean!......... ;)
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Sounds like the meet was a jolly good bash. Nice to meet a few people on Sunday, though I wasn't around for long. Wish I'd got involved with the Friscan merriments, though I was a bit knackered from Saturday in the cave.
Few questions:
1. Where exactly do Room to swing a Katz and the other one go? Do they both sitstart up the same line to the left of the cave? The guide confused me a little, and I've talked to others who are also uncertain. Is the line to the right a recent addition?
2. How has James Pond gone from V8 to V7 to V6? Seems to suit some people better than others, but it felt V7 to me when I last did it.
3. How on earth do you start Arachnophobia? Guide mentions left hand poor undercling, right hand good. Does this mean matching the long undercling, or is left hand much lower left. Couldn't pull on with any of these though - what's the trick?
URP starts sitting on the blocks at the change in ground level - dead obvious really, and a great problem.
Room to Swing... starts about 1.5 metres to the right. desperate initial moves, then exits leftwards onto easy ground. Not a great problem IMO.
The line to the right is new(ish):
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=83
The direct version is almost certainly V10/7c+ - 2 solid 7a moves; Pete Robins reckons it's the hardest problem he has ever done!
James Pond was downgraded in the 'revisionist' years prior to the guide being published. The right hand exit from the ramp is much harder IMO.
Arachnophobia is a bit dodgy really as it blatantly ignores good holds on the right, and the holds have changed a bit since it was originally done. I haven't tried it for a long time, so can't really give specific beta.
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Mike, don't listen to the sideburn jibes - a hirsute man is by definition a man of style. I'm not so keen on ladies with sideburns though...way too specialist for my liking.
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Trust me I'm not knocking the sideburns, not in such distinguished company.
I was up at Woodwell the other week (oh what a surprise) and was climbing with some fella. We got on to discussing rules (as one does at Tom's Roof) and suddenly this guy started going on about how he'd been up there a little while previously and climbing stuff like Screaming Slave, when a guy with huge sideburns came along and started telling him how he was climbing it wrong and how the rules dictate this and that etc etc. Obviously, the fella I was climbing with could only be referring to one member of the crag police and he was not impressed with the strict enforcement!
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R-Man - My beta for Arachnaphobia is matching the undercling, right foot on the only decent looking thing and pulling really hard. Totally solid start for a V7 tick though the moves after that aren't too bad.
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I was up at Woodwell the other week (oh what a surprise) and was climbing with some fella. We got on to discussing rules (as one does at Tom's Roof) and suddenly this guy started going on about how he'd been up there a little while previously and climbing stuff like Screaming Slave, when a guy with huge sideburns came along and started telling him how he was climbing it wrong and how the rules dictate this and that etc etc. Obviously, the fella I was climbing with could only be referring to one member of the crag police and he was not impressed with the strict enforcement!
So you went to woodwell, and then to tom's roof? or was the tom's roof rules discussion another day?
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R-Man - My beta for Arachnaphobia is matching the undercling, right foot on the only decent looking thing and pulling really hard. Totally solid start for a V7 tick though the moves after that aren't too bad.
Cheers. Sounds hard - have looked at this with various people, and no-one I was with managed to pull on, though we may have spent too much time faffing on different handholds. Gets V8 in the guide I believe, but that should still have been doable. Will look at it again next time.
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I'll leave it to him to come along and own up to them.
That will be me then.
Cheers to the N Wales guys, excellent weekend, will try and come to any more that is on the cards. :great:
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Indeed, cheers guys. You gave a warm reception to all those who cared to turn up. Look forward to the next slightly cooler potential Autumn (?) one.
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So you went to woodwell, and then to tom's roof? or was the tom's roof rules discussion another day?
As in Tom's Roof at Woodwell. I feel that I have been out-pedanted.
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So you went to woodwell, and then to tom's roof? or was the tom's roof rules discussion another day?
I feel that I have been out-pedanted.
...which is rare ;) No to be fair Ben, you are a man of little pedant. More a man of ponder.
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No to be fair Ben, you are a man of little pedant.
I take issue with that, I'm a more than a little pedantic.
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R-Man - My beta for Arachnaphobia is matching the undercling, right foot on the only decent looking thing and pulling really hard. Totally solid start for a V7 tick though the moves after that aren't too bad.
Cheers. Sounds hard - have looked at this with various people, and no-one I was with managed to pull on, though we may have spent too much time faffing on different handholds. Gets V8 in the guide I believe, but that should still have been doable. Will look at it again next time.
my mate started with l/h undercut r/h sharp crimp l/h to pinch then a high rockover on r/f and up to good finger hold with r/h but he wasn't sure wether this was the correct start.however there is clearly a scar where something has come off.
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Hi guys and gals - just got of a three day shift (went in at 23.00 on Sunday evening after the meet - feeling terrible!). Cheers to all who came down, it seemed to go down well, even though it was about a billion degrees! I guess the beer cooled us all down anyhow. Hey, Greg, maybe next time The Sting and Harvey Oswald ss will go down (oh, and Bus Stop) - just need that extra 10% eh? ha ha, only joking - good effort to all, well enjoyed! See you all agains soon... :wave:
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Thanks for the tour Chris.
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Hey CJD, didn't your mother teach you any manners? It's rude to goad a guest, especially one as well behaved and gracious as young master Gregory. You deserved that smite.
I won't smite you, but I will point out how pathetic your mantel technique is - topping out on Einstein you looked like an oil covered seal trying to mount an iceberg! ;)
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Notice how I had the good grace not to point out some of the questionable techniques I noticed last week, not to mention "the close but no cigar" efforts on a few south lakes classics (Beauty of Being Numb anyone)... ooops! ;)
Return the smite if you like, I probably deserve it.
PS: Were's my cheque for the double page spread of my Gaskins image that appeared in your Gravity magazine article? ;)
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I meant CJD looked like an oiled seal etc on Einstein - just thought I'd clarify.
(Don't want anybody to mention that dab of mine on Closer)
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finally got read the report.i notice that the sting gets bigged up due to sats conditions.on the unofficial yorkshire off shoot swanny did this 2nd go,retro party 2nd go,the v8 right of bog side traverse 2nd attempt plus about another 18 easier problems.he was getting so excited i thought we might have to mug him and tie him up to get him back in the car as i had to be back home for 7.30pm[20 miles to the east of york]
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I would expect nothing less from Master Swann. Shame we missed you, it's always good to see somebody tearing the crag down.
I'm a little confused by this: "the v8 right of bog side traverse"
Do you mean Sleep Deprivation?
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maybe the v8 at the left of the bogside traverse on the bogside boulder perhaps?
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i'm suprised how little you know your own masterpiece ;).theres a v6 and a v8 mentioned starting from the rail of the bogside traverse which are mentioned as having no particular merit.however we all thought the v6 was very good and andy and dave enjoyed the v8.i guess a lot of the time these might be described as shallow water solos given the landing.
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Hey you Welshy mofo's, cheers for a weekend full of good scenes. These things are always a laugh, they should happen more often - I approve. :great:
Are people talking about James Pond as V8 here? Is that what it gets in the guide as I've heard a few people say it? There's no way. It'd be V5 in Font (par don, seees see ploo)!
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Oh, that 'V8' - now I get it. That would be James Pond then. The one that I unfairly dismissed in the NWB guide, because I thought it was not independent enough. I've since changed my mind, and now consider it to be a superb V6/7a. The right hand exit from the ramp, is also good, if a little close to the adjacent block. I thought this was harder - at least V7/7a+.
Nige, you're climbing about 6 or 7 grades below your limit, how could you possibly tell the difference between a 6c+ and a 7a? ::)
Andy should have tried the sitter to JP - that's a Ding Dong V8 (i.e. 7b+).
(Ding Dong being Neil Dyer's nickname)
Here's some pics for those of you not versed in Cromlech minutiae:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=192 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=192)
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now i'm confused.we started both these problems from a crouching start i.e hands on ramp then feet on holds at the back/underneath.
andy and dave both flashed the right hand line,i took a while longer :-[.then as said earlier andy did t'other 2nd go then it was a case dave would try the left the i would try the right.did they do james pond sit start.we thought they were worth a couple of stars
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Both problems start hanging the, hands matched on the ramp, as you did. The sitting start to JP starts right underneath on a low edge (left) and a small sidepull (right). Confusingly there is a an easier version that uses a bigger side pull further right.
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And the far right toe-heel lock for lanky people seems a wee bit stretched out when trying to hit that lip from the sitter! One for Lion-O!
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now having viewed the pictures at home i'm enlightened.i also appear to be the proud owner of my first welsh v7/7a+ on my birthday as well.
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Still plenty of life left in the old dog, eh Webbo! I'd say a celebratory beer is in order. :beer2:
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the reason for the flying visit was i had to be back to go round to the neighbours for drinks.my recollection is of drinking rather large glasses of red wine.
sunday was somewhat painful.