UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: fatneck on April 13, 2012, 09:05:48 am
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Bouldering qualifiers going off now. Go Shauna!
http://ifsc.tv/ (http://ifsc.tv/)
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results (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1379&cat=ICC_FB)
Alex =1st
Shauna 5th
Mina 16th
How many go through?
edit: according to r-man top 20 go through so mina's in.
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Brilliant stuff!
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results (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1379&cat=ICC_FB)
Alex =1st
Shauna 5th
Mina 16th
How many go through?
edit: according to r-man top 20 go through so mina's in.
yep 20 to semi's
6 from the 20 to finals unless they've changed this rule since last year
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Has anyone worked out what time semis and finals are on in the UK?
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Think the hapless commentator dude said 3.30am for semi's and 11am for finals but I could be wrong and I could have got confused with either the speed climbing or men's events. Sorry to be of little use :wank:
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Are we already claiming Alex as a Brit in a Greg Rusedski / Kevin Pietersen / Zola Budd style? :goodidea:
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Good call JS!
In an attempt to be more useful I've just spent ten minutes trying to fathom out timetables for tomorrow from the IFSC website but failed...
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Are we already claiming Alex as a Brit in a Greg Rusedski / Kevin Pietersen / Zola Budd style? :goodidea:
well if she does marry Chris WP then she's a brit
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Think the hapless commentator dude said 3.30am for semi's and 11am for finals but I could be wrong and I could have got confused with either the speed climbing or men's events. Sorry to be of little use :wank:
5min googling leaves me not much wiser, except that 10.00am in Chonqing is 3am in England.
Webcasting is a great idea, and as the spokesperson said, should help raise the popularity of the sport... But only if we know when it's on! Details for each round should be on the website. And if they are intent on popularising the sport, why are they not making announcements on ukb, ukc, 8a.nu etc. etc.?
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well if she does marry Chris WP then she's a brit
Whilst being born in the UK he states his nationality as Australian (http://www.chriswebbparsons.com/bio.php) (although he may well be entitled to UK nationality :shrug:)
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Webcasting is a great idea, and as the spokesperson said, should help raise the popularity of the sport... But only if we know when it's on! Details for each round should be on the website. And if they are intent on popularising the sport, why are they not making announcements on ukb, ukc, 8a.nu etc. etc.?
:agree: Total waste of an opportunity...
From what I can gather from the webcast today, the bouldering finals will start at around 9.30am UK time...
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just noticed that although most of the competitors were born after I started climbing, in 6th place (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=1055&cat=5) is a 40 year old woman who has 3 kids (http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/event-info/athleten/cecile-avezou/) - good effort Cecile :bow:
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10am today maybe (https://twitter.com/Iain_McKenzie/status/191072539412402176) :shrug:
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live now.
http://ifsc.tv/ (http://ifsc.tv/)
go Shauna!!!
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Introduction.
Coxsey Shauna from Engrand.
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steep wall. bring out the guns. :punk:
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On our way out to watch the footy. Can someone post up results ASAP please?
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Womens
Akiyo 1st
Anna Stohr 2nd
Jain Kim 3rd
Shauna 4th
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Nice one Grubes!
Great effort from Shauna. Feel really proud :)
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Next round in Slovenia, this weekend. UK times:
Saturday, 21st of April
09.00–13.30 Qualifications - men (2 groups)
15.00–19.00 Qualifications - women (1 group)
Sunday, 22nd of April
Semi-finals:
11.00–13.30 Semi-finals - men and women
Finals
17.30 Presentation of the finalists and observation of boulders
18.00 Finals - men and women
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just noticed that although most of the competitors were born after I started climbing, in 6th place (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=1055&cat=5) is a 40 year old woman who has 3 kids (http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/event-info/athleten/cecile-avezou/) - good effort Cecile :bow:
Impressive!
Also she obviously favours the crimp......
8. Which are your top 3 climbing / boulder routes?
In Fontainebleau
Rubis sur l'ongle 7b+
Le mur des lamentations 7b+
Sale gosse 7c
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Sale Gosse isn't crimpy though. All slopey dishes and a slopey top.
Just spotted the line up for this weekend. Ten brits aboard http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=startlist&comp=1387 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=startlist&comp=1387)
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sweet Jesus, we still send Core as our first athlete.
says a lot about his level, but also a lot about the current status of the Italian federation, that managed to make two top competitors quit...
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Sale Gosse isn't crimpy though. All slopey dishes and a slopey top.
Just spotted the line up for this weekend. Ten brits aboard http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=startlist&comp=1387 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=startlist&comp=1387)
Maybe she's been to blackpool
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Boulder World Cup 2012 report - Chongqing, China (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktef2PouT-c#ws)
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Men's qualifying on now...
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Dave Barrans through to semis. Stu Watson just missed out. Commentator better than last time. Jakob Shubert at the top again. Austria and Russia dominating. Several 8C beasts fallen by the wayside.
Women coming up, but I can't watch any more when the weather is this good...
Looking forward to the finals.
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looks like all the women are crushing! Everything is getting done.... by everyone! :oops:
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Just checked results. Shauna qualified joint first. Game on!
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Go Shauna!
The scoring is royally fucked in this unless I don't understand something. How does CW-P come behind 4 people who all got less tops and less bonuses than him? Surely number of attempts should only be used to split ties?
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In the qualifiers there are 2 sets of problems. You go into pot A or pot B. If you are 10th in pot A you are 20th overall.
The problems in CWP's half of the draw must have been marginally easier I imagine.
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Okay, cheers.
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Yes I'm pretty sure it is the position you come in your qualification group, not how the scores compare with the people in the other half.
Apparently the chief route setter said that the 2 sets of problems were 94% the same!!!
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Obvious next question is how do they split the field into two groups? Esp at the beginning of the season...
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By world ranking, which is on a rolling 12 month basis.
Ranking Group
1 A
2 B
3 B
4 A
5 A
6 B
etc
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https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/2012/Rules%20/IFSCRules2012.pdf (https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/2012/Rules%20/IFSCRules2012.pdf)
Section 7.6.1
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Cheers jayou.
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The problems in CWP's half of the draw must have been marginally easier I imagine.
Possible, but also possible that people in that group were climbing slightly better than people in the other group. World ranking is only ever going to be a very rough measure of ability to perform on any given set of problems.
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-or climbing worse but on piss easy problems. :)
:chair:
Even gangle hauled his carcass up two of them.
(to be fair he got timed out after the crux of problem 3, and dropped 4 like a tool, repeatedly. If he'd ticked either of those he'd be well in the semi's and his auntie would be his uncle.
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El Baroni!!!
P1 flashed.
and first to tick P2
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P3 looks nails. sideway dyno into a hemisphere pocket, no-one stuck it yet.
wonder if someone will go feet first. (looks like quadra-spaz potential)
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Dave's finished. 2 ticked of 4. 1 more bonus.
looks like you need to tick at least 3, prob all 4, to guarantee the final.
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I doubt feet first will work, the sloper looks incredibly bad and the foot incredibly high.
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Phew, grey volume on W4 doesnt have much on it!
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So Shauna's in the final? I think? Akiyo flashing that horrendous gap jump was :o
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in second place. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_FB (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_FB)
mens here http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_MB (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_MB)
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I don't think many of them liked W3
That russian bird's fall looked nasty. face first into the wall stomach into a foot hold landed badly on her ankle. Sounds like she came away okay after getting strechered off. Just hurt her ankle.
Akiyo and anna S both went face first into the wall but held the hold. Anna shouted something at the officials could not hear on the feed after latching, looking pissed off ...
Good round though
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Seems like the website isn't working. Anyone managing to watch finals?
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wasn't expecting it to go live till just before half past 6? sheeeeeeeeeeet.
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Lagged out on me just before the competition started not be able to get back. Maybe over logged?
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Bugger.
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working again for me
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Seems to be working again now
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not working for me. fanculo.
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Mostly been working for me, of course had to go wrong whilst seana was cruising the 1st problem!!! stream came back just as she was dropping off from top hold mumble grumble grumble !!
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Shauna's just flashed the second too
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Fantastic stuff! :popcorn:
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beastmaker sess completed, golfer's elbow exercises done. Kids in bed, beer in hand and IFSC on computer. Allez Shauna! :icon_beerchug:
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Hmm, the problem setters obviously ran out of crimps or got a job lot of blobs. Lorks, she's bendy.
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shirley mina m just used an out of bounds foothold?
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Looked like a horizontal line from the problem to the foothold wouldn't cross black tape, so its basically allowed.
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balls, shauna's mis-read on W3
cheers j5
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did Shauna get up it, so her fail the flash. (had to go sort the kids out as the wife's watching the voice :shit:)
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no she didn't, looked totally relaxed until the move she didn't work out. can only win if mina doesn't get up W4. M4 looks brilliant.
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mina won it
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cheers Shauna stepping up to W4. Go Shauna
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Must be so hard knowing you can't win it. Bit gutted, but good for mina m to win it at home. Can still podium if anna doesn't top out i think.
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they got the scoring screwed up again for women's scores ?? i'm sure shauna got 2 tops in 2 tries, not three, or am i reading my pixilated video stream wrong ?
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Silver for Shauna :2thumbsup:
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Amazing! She looks pretty relaxed with the whole thing too
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silver!
Awesome.
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Great stuff! :bow:
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Great indeed!!! Most relaxed competitor ever?
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This is massively impressive.
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Her progress on the comp scene has been amazing. I'm looking forward to her unleashing on the boulders too in the years ahead. Font 8b anyone!!?
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Streaming live again now.
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anyone watching? Blocked out at work so can't watch it.
Hows team GB getting on plus the on honary brits? (CWP etc)
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Stu W: 3/5 tops, 5/9 bonus (pool 1) currently 15th
Dave B: 3/5 tops, 4/6 bonus
CWP: 3/5 tops, 4/6 bonus
Jon P: 2/5 tops, 2/2 bonus
JP is still climbing I think, maybe DB and CWP too? can't really work it out
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DB and CWP joint 11th now, I think they've finished so are out :(
JP now 20th, think he's still climbing
Tom N has just started: 1/3 tops, 1/1 bonus
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TN 2/5, 2/2
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Honorary Brit Nacho (1st ascent at the Tor, should get a UK passport!) in joint 4th.
Just found the times for the other rounds. Converted to UK:
27th April 2012 Qualifications
18:15 start qualification women
28th April 2012 Semifinals and Finals
09:30 start semi finals (men&women)
12:20 end semi finals
17:00 start finals women
18:50 end finals, flower ceremony
19:15 start finals men
21:00 end finals, flower ceremony
21:15 award ceremony
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Unless I misunderstood the thing on ifsc.tv, it sounds like the women's qualifying has been delayed until 7:15pm, so 6:15pm UK time. At least I might make it back from work in time to catch some of it....
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Honorary Brit Nacho (1st ascent at the Tor, should get a UK passport!) in joint 4th.
joint 4th in his pool - think joint 9th overall. still safely through though?
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seems harsh the women are allotted so much less recovery time? qualification (much) later, semi's same as the men, finals earlier. Surely they should either qualify first or have the finals last?
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That's wierd.
The finals are never separate except in the world champs.
It usually makes it more boring, since you have between 0 & 1 people climbing at the same time instead of between 0 & 2.
The amount of recovery time isn't that relevant though, since they are all in the same boat.
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Here's a vid that shows the winning Slovenian on last week's finals problems. Gives a better idea of the angles and holds than the live stream did.
Mina Markovic - BWC Log 2012 Winner on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41134696)
But also beneath that video is a link to vote for a new wall in Latvia. I'm quite enjoying watching these comps for free, so it seems like a nice way to say thanks to the Slovenians for that last round. Here's the text:
Could you help us in voting for a new outdoor climbing wall in Riga (Latvia), link here:
http://www.labiedarbi.lv/lv/balso_par_projektu/brivdabas-kapsanas-siena.html (http://www.labiedarbi.lv/lv/balso_par_projektu/brivdabas-kapsanas-siena.html)
The voting is absolutely free.
1.On the webpage right side please select your country from "Valsts" menu (sorry, only in Latvian transcription) "United Kingdom is the first country in the list ("Apvienota karaliste" in Latvian) ,USA is the second("ASV" in Latvian), Ireland is the 13th ("Irija" in Latvian),
2.put your phone number and press "Sanemt kodu", then you will get sms with a code,
3.please enter the code on the empty field and press "Balsot". It takes less then 1 minute.
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Shauna through in joint 3rd, Alex in joint 17th. All other brits and token brits out (unless we get nacho now).
R-man - cheers for the tranlation services, done.
In other news, Jule Wurm also through in joint 3rd :wub:
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In other news, Jule Wurm also through in joint 3rd :wub:
She'd be winning if she hadn't dropped 5.10 for Mad Rock - madness!
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I take it Percy had a hand in setting W1? :-[
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Desperate looking problems in the semis, compounded by 30 deg heat. Alex and Shauna through as top two, along with most of the usuals. Russians looking strong in the men's.
Men's looked gnarly, only one topout needed to go through. Old skool crimping on the final problem shut all the usual beasts down, just one ascent. Similar story with the crimpy girl's problem (no ascents). Nobody can crimp these days, bet that would have been bread and butter to the 80's brick-edge-traverse gang.
Bring on the finals. Meanwhile, conditions look good, I'm psyched to get on the rock and do some sideways quarryman backwards facing balancing with tetrahedral inconveniences, whilst keeping my feet away from the black tape. On second thoughts, I'm going bouldering instead...
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missed the webcast, but Alex 3rd, Shauna 4th. Akiyo won.
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missed the webcast, but Alex 3rd, Shauna 4th. Akiyo won.
Think most people missed the broadcast - the bandwidth problem was back..... :slap:
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I saw it all fine.
Olga landed badly on problem and got probable turn ACL so had to pull out.
Shauna looked knackered and said so when interviewed, so was happy to get the result she got.
The mens final was more entertaining. Thrills and spills and jumps.
Rei turned his ankle on problem 2 and had to get strapped up and came back on the later problems and still topped them.
Killi looked a bit out of sorts and then just managed to top stuff.
Rustam crushed.
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I'm new to watching Boulder WC's (this was the first Boulder WC I've watched) and in all honesty I only put it on because I was psyched to see how Shauna got on (I'm sure having a world-class British comp climber will get more Brits into it).
I wasn't sure what to expect of the event and, from the moment I switched it on, I was really impressed with the quality: not just of the competition, but also the coverage (both in terms of presenters and filming) and thought both looked very 'professional'.
The range/variety of problems looked both challenging for the competitors (i.e. a good separation in the finals, semi-finals not so good...) and entertaining for the audience. The atmosphere looked great and it looked like they had a large crowd. It seems that on the continent climbers have a less derisory attitude towards competitions than over here, however going off the interest shown in the Boulder WC on this forum and among friends (compared with previous years) I'm starting to get the feeling that people are starting to not only think of comp climbing as 'acceptable', but also starting to get into it as a spectator sport.
Indeed, I never thought climbing comps were that interesting to watch, but this has certainly changed my mind. I'll most definitely be watching the remaining events in the series and rooting for Shauna all the way!
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Oh, and I had no problems with viewing the webcast.
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Yep, men's finals were great. Nice to have Chris Webb commentating, the main commentator was enthsiastic, but it helps to have someone there who can talk beta and climbing minutiae.
A shame several of the women were really struggling with thin/bleeding skin. But i guess if you have three rounds in two days, and some of those in 30 deg. heat, it's unavoidable. It would be great to see them all performing at their peak, ie. having had a rest day before each round, or at least the final. Sometimes seems to come down to who can keep going at 80% the longest, rather than whose 100% effort is the best. Bouldering isn't supposed to be moutaineering. But most competitors/venues probably can't afford events to take that long. Maybe it will change in the future.
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It would be great to see them all performing at their peak, ie. having had a rest day before each round, or at least the final. Sometimes seems to come down to who can keep going at 80% the longest, rather than whose 100% effort is the best.
i was having similar thoughts...maybe putting qualifications and semis on the same day and finals on the 3rd could be enough (but it would make for a very busy day for the organization)
on the other hand the current format reinforces the advantage for those who can manage their attempts well and/or give 100% to flash/2nd go.
Imho it makes for a good show and, other things being equal, it rewards experience/mental skills, which is positive?
A possible unexpected consequence of a "skin saving" format could be that trashing attempts would become less disadvantageous, opening the doors for physically fitter athletes who have a bit less talent/comp experience?
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Not world cup related but Ive heard on the TweetTM tree that Shauna Coxsey has won this years Melloblocco. Those comments made on Outcrop a few weeks back are becoming more revelant as each day passes.
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Confirmed here, great stuff:
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39510 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39510)
(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/11806.jpg)
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Melloblocco 2012 - Shauna Coxsey flashes Mellospigolo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVkrIVkQ4pc#)
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Next round is Innsbruck, fri qual, sat semis and finals
Friday, 18.05.2012 Qualifikation
08.00 – 22.00 qualification IFSC Boulder Worldcup
exact schedule will be presented at the technical meeting (depends on the number of athletes)
Saturday, 19.05.2012 Semifinals and Finals
12.30 – 15.30 semifinals male and female
20.15 finals male and female, not at the same time
just pasted from the info doc so take off an hour for UK time. Couldn't find any more up to date times for qualification even though the start list has been released, where did you find ther info r-man?
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The start list found here: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/?category_id=230 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/?category_id=230) is just the current list of people registered.
I imagine, that some time today, at least by the time that this evenings technical meeting happens, Graeme will post a news item on the IFSC site detailing the times of tomorrows qualis.
Or they will hopefully appear on ifsc.tv, but sometimes, that info is just copied from the event info sheet, which doesn't get updated when times change.
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Just got internet up and running in Insbruck
Quals are tomorrow (Friday), men's start at 1000 (2 groups) and women's at 1500 (1 group)
Semis on Saturday starting at 1230, finals start at 1930 with the presentation of the athletes.
As an official I can't show bias so I will leave it to you lot to say up the Brits ;)
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Was hoping for a Sunday eve finals as it clashes with the Champions league final, so will have to multitask the viewing I guess!
hopefully we can see a couple more making the semis this round :)
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qualis live now (http://ifsc.tv/)
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anyone got a link to live scores?
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live quails now (http://www.quailsaustralia.com.au/ForSale.aspx)
....sorry
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anyone got a link to live scores?
http://www.livescore.co.uk/ (http://www.livescore.co.uk/) :-\
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cunts.
live scores are up on the video feed now.
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Looks like Neds got a good chance - 7th at the moment in his half with 4 tops in 8. Stu W is in 9th in the other group, lots of strong guys to come in that one though... Looks like DB, JP, and CWP are going to miss out
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NF now 8th, SW 10th. where's that nailbiting smiley?
all other men out I think
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Being a cunt aside, what is the cut off?
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cut off is top 10 from each group.
I think there is only one group of women this afternoon so that means top 20 go through, right?
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Merci
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cut off is top 10 from each group.
I think there is only one group of women this afternoon so that means top 20 go through, right?
I believe so. j5 or graeme are your men for this stuff though. all the brits/ukb adoptees have finished climbing now. Nacho appears to have had a nightmare (t1/2, b5/21...)
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Sorry for being a retard but how do you read the scores? Is 5/8 did all 5 problems in 8 goes so Nacho's 5/21 means it took him 21 goes to get the bonus hold on em all? Or something.
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I think...
5/8 means 5 successes in 8 tries
they only put the scores up once they've tried all 5 problems so it's always out of 5
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another bunch of scores up - ned's down to 9th in his group, Stew is still hanging on in 10th...
really need that nervous smiley.
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Makes sense ta.
The best thing about doing these comps must be having your own personal hold brusher.
Not many to go, it's going to be close....
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SW and NF through
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Good stuff. If I'm reading this right it looks as if Dave Barrans only missed out by one attempt. That'd be annoying.
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SW and NF through
:beer2:
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Good stuff. If I'm reading this right it looks as if Dave Barrans only missed out by one attempt. That'd be annoying.
yeah, think he was really close last round as well.
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Girls are on in ten min, feed is live again. Think Shauna'll be one of the first to climb.
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Any ideas on the grades of the womens/mens problems in the WC qualifying round?
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Shauna's done, 3rd at the moment. t4/5, b5/5
Alex 4th. t4/5, b5/10
Archie - Percy or Graeme should have an idea.
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They all looked piss from where I was standing :-)
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semis about to start, stream's live (http://ifsc.tv/)
SW climbing now.
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SW flashed the first 2! Ned's got the first one too, took him a few goes though
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THE TROUSERS ARE LIVE NOW!!!!
:popcorn:
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shauna and alex are climbing. shauna just absolutely crushed the first prob, completely casual.
SW and NF are done, SW is current leader with t3/3 b4/4, NF 3rd t3/8 b4/11
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Shauna, Stu & Ned all made it to the final. Best British representation in a WC final ever? :strongbench:
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Shauna, Stu & Ned all made it to the final. Best British representation in a WC final ever? :strongbench:
plus the pooch!
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come on the brits :great:
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Stu in 3rd!
:great:
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Looks like Ned made, it just!! Came right down to the line. Good effort eh
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Not sure I've ever been so tense as watching Dimitry repeatedly fall off the start of problem 4 to let Ned get through. I have now cancelled the trip to the pub to watch the champions league to stay home, do pull ups and shout the Brits up the problems!!
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That's some good devotion there ben.
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Bring on the :popcorn:
It's gonna be great :2thumbsup:
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AAAAAAArgh. Shauna about to start last prob and the webcast goes down. AAAAAAAAArgh.
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stupid web cast fingers crossed for shauna
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Lost connection shauna dropped last move on second attempt then gone needs to do it third try to have any chance. Anna will flash as the porblem was set for her. Anyone got the feed?
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Watching in a pub and i thought it was my wifi time ran out. Really hope Shauna topped it...
COME ON SHAUNA.
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Shauna topped according to twitter not sure howmany trys
edit - connection back
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well done shauna 2nd is excellent :clap2:
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Well done Shauna. Keep topping all the problems and the win will come :bounce:
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So 2nd place for Shauna! Brilliant result!!
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victory is not far away!!!
brilliant!!!
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http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_FB&cup=12_WC (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_FB&cup=12_WC)
Currently 3rd overall this season. Could see a podium place for the whole series. Has a brit done that before in the boulder world cup, in either male or female?
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:jaw:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_FB&cup=12_WC (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_FB&cup=12_WC)
Currently 3rd overall this season. Could see a podium place for the whole series. Has a brit done that before in the boulder world cup, in either male or female?
Malc 2nd to Christian core I think...
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Yes Malc 2nd overall nearly won it!
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Shauna has dedicated her podium position to John Terry and said that he should really take most of the credit for such a great achievement.
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Shauna could/should have won. On the last bloc she missed a hold on a volume making the move to the big hold/volume a lot harder than it should have been. She would have probably flashed the bloc had she used the easier sequence and therefore won. She knew the hold was there from the observation but forgot about it on all 3 attempts. :(
She also needs to learn how open and spray champagne. I suspect she will get a few more podiums so should soon be an expert :)
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Shauna has dedicated her podium position to John Terry and said that he should really take most of the credit for such a great achievement.
terry has still to get past bosingwa first
(http://ww4.hdnux.com/photos/13/22/13/2958071/21/628x471.jpg)
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Can we keep the bladder chasing crap in its proper place please; it doesn't need to leak out into threads about good stuff ;)
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Boulder World Cup 2012 report - Innsbruck (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJasGzybnsQ#ws)
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Timetable for the Vail BWC just confirmed. The lasses start at 5pm UK time and the lads at 10pm on Friday.
Tyler and Dave (not Barrans, the other one, you know who I mean) are unranked at the moment so will start irly early. Mr Barrans will start about half past midnight.
Mina Wudji-Wudji will be starting around 6pm and Shauna around an hour later.
I think these are the timings for the Brits but my brain hurts due to sampling some fine marg's last night :alky:
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sweet, this is going to work well with night shifts this weekend
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Word on the street is that there might be a revolt against the new USA Climbing rule - ypy might be busy next week :thumbsup:
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I'm one of those miserable old / crap types that never thought much of comps. My only basis for this was ignorance.
I've watched a few recently though, this one and the boulder battle thingy. Have to say, I thought they were great. Better than football at any rate.
I take it from the conversation that this one will be webcasted(I only saw the youtube vid of the last one)?
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Word on the street is that there might be a revolt against the new USA Climbing rule - ypy might be busy next week :thumbsup:
I think I saw somewhere Percy was setting too this round too, that true?
:2thumbsup:
It will be broadcast live for free on isfc.tv the direct link is in this thread somewhere maybe first post
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Vail event underway now - woman quals on now, mens later (10pm I think)
http://www.ifsc.tv/ (http://www.ifsc.tv/)
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1372&cat=ICC_FB (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1372&cat=ICC_FB)
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Got the wife's iPad, just realised I can't watch it. Just works straight out of the box - what a load of shite! :wall:
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Ty, CWP, Shauna, Mina, Pooch all through.
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What about G-Unit? Can't access the scores...
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Barrans was 31st : (I appear to have lost all ability to climb! landed up 31st and didn't do Percy's slab! #anotherstrongpunter @dave_barrans)
Mason was 36th.
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Shauna through in second.
Ty out (14th).
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Yeah yeah... but what about G-Unit?
(http://spotsettingblog.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/garrett-by-jon-glassberg.jpg)
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Who's G-Unit?
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50 cent's crew, dick head
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Nice one retard. I presume JB is referring to a climber with the nickname 'g-unit'?
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If u don't know who g-unit is then ure a dick
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It's on. bit delayed by rain
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half way Shauna second 2/3, Jule leading 2/2.
and the feeds just died!!! >:(
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both 3/4 now, jule leading on bonus attempts...
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balls. anna pulled it out of the bag on W4, and jule and shauna couldn't top.
1. anna
2. shauna
3. jule
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Nice work Percy. Best sets yet :great:
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Shauna 2nd overall now. Gutted had a migraine and missed it :sick:
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but:
there's only one more round this year - Munich in late September (too big a gap surely?),
the best 5 scores from the 6 rounds are used to calc overall winner,
then...
given the scores here (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=5&show_calc=1&cup=127),
Anna's already won it?
(Shauna trails by 46 but can only improve by a max of 45
Akiyo trails by 71 but can only improve by a max of 69)
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43rd. Way to go G!
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Anna's already won it?
Looks like it, but it's still been an awesome first series for Shauna and bodes incredibly well for next year! When she'll be the ripe old age of 20 :jaw:
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and after all, there's "losing" and "losing to Anna Stohr"...
great season for Shauna, would be nice to finish it off with a win!!! :clap2:
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Pretty certain Anna doesn't even have to compete in the last event to win it. Amazing effort by Shauna though.
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Climbing World Cup 2012 Boulder Vail, USA - Women's and Men's Finals (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1fecJv0ups#ws)
Just watched it. Entertaining stuff.
...Handjamming in a bouldering comp? Here's what the competitors think...
To watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a “party trick” is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me “I don’t want to win like this”… and it’s true. Even though I knew I’d come second instead of third, it wasn’t in the way I wanted.
http://seanmccoll.com/ (http://seanmccoll.com/)
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To watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a “party trick” is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me “I don’t want to win like this”… and it’s true. Even though I knew I’d come second instead of third, it wasn’t in the way I wanted.
http://seanmccoll.com/ (http://seanmccoll.com/)
Just seen this in the comment section ..
Hey thanks for the write up! I was wondering if you could enlighten us to the fact that the announcers said that Jan had been practicing hand jams the day before. Is there any chance he was tipped off to the final problem or perhaps all the problems… Is there any cheating in the competition world?
Cheers
Matt
So is percy open to bribes? ;)
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Probably no more than knowing the route setter in question has a reputation for setting jamming problems.
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I seem to remember Rei and somebody else did the prob without handjamming, and the jam slots had lots of handy thumb scollops near the edge so I don't think they were do or die jam cracks anyway..
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Ok, so I am biased on this topic....
Surely a climbing competition should encompass all styles of climbing? The IFSC has quite strict guidelines about what should and shouldn't be included. (The mighty JG did get into a spot of bother recently over the inclusion of a non-approved sequence).
Hand-jamming, although not found often on boulder problems, is most definitely a style of climbing. It gets the comp away from the 'who can pull hardest on the smallest holds' feel, which for me is a good thing. As Sam pointed out, there did seem to be other ways of doing it, and for those competitors who are more familiar with Percy's style of setting and were able to practice, that just goes with the territory of being a more experienced comp climber.
And just about everyone agreed it was one of the best sets, with almost perfect splitting of the competitors and a nail-biting finale that was great to watch in both men's and women's.
I was very, very proud of him and have almost forgiven him for abandoning me for 12 days with 2 small children that don't sleep
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Hand-jamming, although not found often on boulder problems, is most definitely a style of climbing. It gets the comp away from the 'who can pull hardest on the smallest holds' feel, which for me is a good thing. As Sam pointed out, there did seem to be other ways of doing it, and for those competitors who are more familiar with Percy's style of setting and were able to practice, that just goes with the territory of being a more experienced comp climber.
:agree: How is a handjam a f*cking "party trick"? Kids these days etc. (http://www.gracecentered.com/christian_forums/Smileys/default/old_man_SMILEY.gif)
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I think he specifically ment a handjam on a (presumably comp) boulder problem rather than handjams per se.
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I think he specifically ment a handjam on a (presumably comp) boulder problem rather than handjams per se.
And? :shrug:
Should drop knees not be allowed 'cause they're "tricks" that make it "easier" to do certain moves?
Its a comp not The School.
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Of course drop knees should be banned. And heels.
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:)
I don't see why, just because its a competition boulder problem, hand jams shouldn't be included, they're perfectly valid climbing techniques, or more simply....what LucyA said.
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I was very, very proud of him and have almost forgiven him for abandoning me for 12 days with 2 small children that don't sleep
I see he's been keeping busy with the local 5-0
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I am not disagreeing with you, I just thought Seans comment was probably not about all handjams as was implied by Muenchener, but more likely about a narrower subset of handjams..
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Ah ok, my misunderstanding. :sorry:
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To watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a “party trick” is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me “I don’t want to win like this”… and it’s true. Even though I knew I’d come second instead of third, it wasn’t in the way I wanted.
http://seanmccoll.com/ (http://seanmccoll.com/)
Just seen this in the comment section ..
Hey thanks for the write up! I was wondering if you could enlighten us to the fact that the announcers said that Jan had been practicing hand jams the day before. Is there any chance he was tipped off to the final problem or perhaps all the problems… Is there any cheating in the competition world?
Cheers
Matt
So is percy open to bribes? ;)
Percy had put a hand jam on the warm up wall. This was spotted by the Germans (and maybe others) so they figured there would be a jam or 2 in the semis or the finals. Jan spent the evening trying to learn how to jam by watching YouTube - obviously not the most effiecient way to learn.
So no, no cheating was going on. And yes Percy is obviously open to bribes but these days he is quite expensive :P
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In fact, as the chief route setter, part of my job is to make sure that there are appropriate holds on the warm-up wall. If I am expecting the climbers to pull on small crimps, I have to put the same style of small crimps on the warm-up wall - if the comp has problems on pockets, I make sure that the competitors have pockets to warm-up on too. And if I have set a problem that requires the climbers to pull on a bomber, perfectly parallel hand jam, then I put one of these on the warm-up wall. Its not cheating - its common sense,
The fact that many comp climbers have never tried this most elementary of climbing skills is (to me) quite amusing, and as I have a pretty twisted sense of humour, I like to include the odd jam now and again just emphasise the point that it is a climbing competition - an event designed to test climbers skills to find the person who is best at climbing in all styles - slabs, roofs, crimps, pockets, and even cracks.
As I got the chance to set a boulder comp in the country with probably more hand jams per route than any other country in the world, I thought it would be a nice touch to include it in the comp. The problem was possible without jamming (and was done this way by two other guys), but it was just a V10 instead of a V9. Sean McColl will simply have to go on my list of climbers who don't get it. His inference that the ability to hand jam is merely a party trick is almost as sad as Matteus Mullers comment that 'Jamming isn't climbing" which he made in a world cup at Birmingham a few years back.
As for the poor German fella, he just shot his bolt on the first three blocs and had nothing left to do the last one, jams or no jams. I understand that Killi and Sean like to fight to win rather than have the leader hand them the victory because he gets shut down, but if you're not there to win any which way, then what's the deal?
Killi certainly seemed to have forgotten how sad it all was in the pub later on! :icon_beerchug:
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Highlights here, from Udo
http://youtu.be/9yHGWvlw6iM (http://youtu.be/9yHGWvlw6iM)
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Final round of the World Cup starts in 15 minutes-
http://www.ifsc.tv/ (http://www.ifsc.tv/)
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nice one. forgot about that.
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Yep. I haven't decided yet whether to go and watch the semis & finals tomorrow, or enjoy a nice empty bouldering wall that would otherwise normally be full on a rainy weekend. Probably a bit of both.
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Get here early, the place will be rammed and they will be counting people in - once it's full they will close it. Don't forget its the Olympic Parks 40th birthday tomorow and there will be 100,000+ people around
Capcaity for the bouldering is 6500
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Damn. I had other plans for this morning, but now I have no choice but to watch the men's qualis until somebody gets up B5.
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Damn. I had other plans for this morning, but now I have no choice but to watch the men's qualis until somebody gets up B5.
gar nicht möglich!
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2 hairy monsters (Stewbacca and Big Foot) and a Ginga into the semis. When did we get decent at comps!!
Lasses are on at 2pm Brit time
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what happened to el baroni?
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Tweaky finger plus P4 was a bit reachy. He did 3 blocs (I think) but not quite enough.
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Dave was 27th overall. Frist time the whole Team have got ranking points!!!
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Damn. I had other plans for this morning, but now I have no choice but to watch the men's qualis until somebody gets up B5.
gar nicht möglich!
I gave up and went shopping in the end - the family needs to eat. I come back and it's all over, with a conspicuous absence of any "5t" results in Group B. I take it this means jwi was right?
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Young German lad Alex and our very own Big Foot were probably amongst the closest to maybe being able to do it. Stew reckoned he could do it given 10 minutes not 5
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Mina did all 5 blocs and has qualified (probably) in equal 5th with Mina ;D
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Qualifiers-
Stew 1st
Ned 9th
Adam 13th
Barrans 27th
Mina 5th
Katy 15th
Diane 27th
Gill 28th
Everyone scores points!
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Mina did all 5 blocs and has qualified (probably) in equal 5th with Mina ;D
Just got back from watching the women's qualis with my son (trial run for tomorrow - I was afraid he would be bored and want to leave after ten minutes. But no). Mina was impressive and I thought should have been equal fourth; the disallowed second go on #4 looked ok to me - not that I know what I'm talking about here.
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great ass on one of the fluffers i mean brushers ha ha
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great ass on one of the fluffers i mean brushers ha ha
I wouldn't know, i can't get the stream to load. Again. Waste of time.
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great ass on one of the fluffers i mean brushers ha ha
I wouldn't know, i can't get the stream to load. Again. Waste of time.
first one i,ve had no problems with
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First climbing comp I've spectated at since Birmingham in the early 90s, and I must say I had a great time. Watched the women's qualis yesterday and the semis today, both with my 9 year old son. I was afraid he would be bored and want to go home after ten minutes, but he was fascinated for hours and insisted on going to the wall afterwards. Result.
Quite astonishing how, in a field where everybody is a world class athlete and strong and capable beyond my power to imagine, Akiyo and Anna still look in a completely different league to everybody else.
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Anyone been watching the Paris Comp? Tail end of bouldering quali's on now. Women on tomorrow. Leading on later.
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Anyone been watching the Paris Comp? Tail end of bouldering quali's on now.
Yes.
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Was the start any good? I missed all the top ranked men, though it looks like the usual suspects qualified.
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Missed start and was an occasional watcher between trying to work through an tray that was poised to topple on me.
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Dave Barrans climbing now....
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Neds getting his semi on in about 10 minutes........
http://www.ifsc.tv/ (http://www.ifsc.tv/)
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Sharafutdinov! :great: Pullups FTW!!!