UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: al on October 18, 2011, 01:14:20 pm
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johnny's book is at last a living breathing thing, which at times seemed unlikely.
he should have a delivery this week, so hopefully on the shelves soon - it should provide a nice counter point to jerry and ron's books ;)
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Brilliant, good effort Al! Where do I pre-order?
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hi adam, not sure what he's up to re. orders - sure he'll send you a copy if you ring him, although I know go outdoors and cotswold camping have pre-ordered a load...
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it's in Cordee's warehouse apparently so will hopefully be in the shops soon.
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Oh lordy ... !
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Oh lordy ... !
it's a treasure andy, untouched by the mucky hands of commerce... for a few more days only
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Oh lordy ... !
it's a treasure andy, untouched by the mucky hands of commerce... for a few more days only
I'm fascinated to know what he's come up with.
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First libel cases in climbing coming up?!
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First libel cases in climbing coming up?!
And get ready, cause this shit's about to get heavy
I just settled all my lawsuits, fuck you Dunney
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this reminds me of this old webpage of JD's site, from back before the internet was trendy:
http://www.johnnydawes.com/autobiography.htm (http://www.johnnydawes.com/autobiography.htm)
glad its actually come to fruition, and hope he remembered some of his life.
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I can remember the day he nearly took mine doing 60+mph on a blind bend on the left hand side of the road. Near Volx.
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How do we get hold of a copy down under?
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I can remember the day he nearly took mine doing 60+mph on a blind bend on the left hand side of the road. Near Volx.
"Roads should be paved with Firé rubber and cars should have gritstone wheels": JD in a silver Honda Accord on the A623 bends between Tideswell and Peak Forest, on the way back to Manchester after the first ascent of Braille Trail.
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isn't the opposite (rubber on wheels and grit on roads) already closer to reality?
:???:
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How do we get hold of a copy down under?
think he's got his old website address back, and it should be up next week - assuming you can get them from there - johnnydawes.com
try outside's website, or maybe direct from cordee?
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(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6111/6260202956_cbe2667fd4_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/6260202956/)
fullofmyselfcoverfinal.indd (http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/6260202956/) by allenwilliams (http://www.flickr.com/people/91196167@N00/), on Flickr
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cheers slack ;)
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Right, I have a car and cash. Where can I buy one?
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There better be pictures of that kitten.
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Right, I have a car and cash. Where can I buy one?
think aide was going to do some work on your leaflet at mine later, you can have a read while we work!
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First let me say I am really looking forward to reading this (if I can actually understand Jonny's metaphysical Jive talk ;) ) but the whole creation process seems to be completely random, from the hugely telegraphed genesis of the project, to the request for content due to amnesia :-\ and now the marketing seems to be a bit of a mess. For what is undoubtedly one of the most anticipated climbing books in years there seems to have been very little information leaking into the public domain when compared to either Jerry's or Ron's books.
Having said all that I will still be buying it (if I can find somewhere that actually sells it).
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Jerry and Ron's books were put out by an established publisher with some fairly savvy PR. Johnny is self-publishing his with only Al's help to lay it out. Be nice if the marketing was a bit more organised but that wouldn't be Johnny!
think aide was going to do some work on your leaflet at mine later, you can have a read while we work!
Brilliant, have you got some hard copies then?
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hi peanuts, you may be expecting too much - its been a mighty effort to get it made at all, johnny isn't part of the machine, and the book may not be either...
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Brilliant, have you got some hard copies then?
yep, only my copy though - call johnny adam, he's got some now
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:bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
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isn't the opposite (rubber on wheels and grit on roads) already closer to reality?
I asked the same question at the time. But we were penniless students in those days and Johnny's idea was the wheels would last longer and somebody else would be paying for the roads.
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Some available from BMC shop
http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6421 (http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6421)
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Just got my hands on a copy from the man himself. Only dipped in so far, but its a nicely finished thing that in no way looks 'self-published'. But that approach has obviously given Johnny the freedom to do thing his way and there are LOADS of pictures and the odd sketch adding character. All looks great, will be getting stuck in asap.
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Does anyone know where I could get hold of one today, so I can take it on holiday with me tomorrow please?
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Phone Cofe NOW, and get him to grab you one whilst Johnny is downstairs. He's out of fivers though, so don't expect change!
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Johnny has just left...
apparently Outside will have them in stock today.
Book looks great, it's basically stuffed any chance of me and jon getting any work done today.
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Bollocks.
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the Works must be getting some in today or tomorrow?
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Hopefully. I'll pop down in a bit.
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Ordered off the BMC :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
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Ordered off the BMC :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
Me too :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
But jeez, the BMC's shipping fee for overseas letters is high, I'm expecting the book to be packed in a gilded box.
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The official organ here:
The BMC are still awaiting delivery of FOM today and when they come in they will be dispatched first class recorded delivery. No more signed copies left but if this is anything like the Jerry book then it's the unsigned copies that will be the hottest property.
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I can remember the day he nearly took mine doing 60+mph on a blind bend on the left hand side of the road. Near Volx.
"Roads should be paved with Firé rubber and cars should have gritstone wheels": JD in a silver Honda Accord on the A623 bends between Tideswell and Peak Forest, on the way back to Manchester after the first ascent of Braille Trail.
isn't the opposite (rubber on wheels and grit on roads) already closer to reality?
:???:
I asked the same question at the time. But we were penniless students in those days and Johnny's idea was the wheels would last longer and somebody else would be paying for the roads.
The gritstone wheels would provide an awesomely low centre of gravity and produce a virtually un-tippable car. Would need a big pile of horses to make it fast enough to be fun though.
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Word on the streets is both Outside and the Works have copies now.
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I can confirm that The Climbing Works now has signed copies of the book instore and online (for those abroad: http://climbingworks.com/shop/media/books/bio/technique/full-of-myself-johnny-dawes-autobiography/ (http://climbingworks.com/shop/media/books/bio/technique/full-of-myself-johnny-dawes-autobiography/))
We only have 18 signed copies which we expect to go fast!
:clap2:
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Can confirm Outside also have stock.
:coffee:
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ordered mine from works website :bounce:
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I can confirm that The Climbing Works now has signed copies of the book instore and online (for those abroad: http://climbingworks.com/shop/media/books/bio/technique/full-of-myself-johnny-dawes-autobiography/ (http://climbingworks.com/shop/media/books/bio/technique/full-of-myself-johnny-dawes-autobiography/))
We only have 18 signed copies which we expect to go fast!
:clap2:
Any options for collecting from you? If there are can you put me a signed copy on one side and I will turn up tomorrow evening and pay then. Will PM my works number if you need me to.
Cheers
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I thought about that too, so I phoned about 15 minutes ago and they've kindly put one by for me to collect in a few hours (their number is on their website).
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Good work there slackers - just rang them and have a copy to collect tomorrow! :)
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Unofficial organ crew checking in:
Our shipment has arrived at BMC HQ. Hannah is busy packing the pre-orders ready for posting (thats nearly all of them!) which will go out tonight. 8)
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:bounce:
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The Works has 6 or 7 signed ones left, but we've almost sold out, so Johnny is bringing us another 30 in a bit. If you catch him while he's here I'm sure he'll sign one, or draw you a nice little picture in it...!
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Thanks Will, that smiley needed to be on every dawes page
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40 pages in now... and its brilliant. Very readable, very funny, and very Dawes. No ghostwriter's polish or distortion, just Johnny.
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One is winging its way to me right now - I hope.
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I've never been one for autographs, but I really hope I get one of the signed copies....
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And if anyone at the works can get Johnny to sign it, I'll be a copy going to France.
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Just received my copy. Less than 24 hours for delivery is pretty outstanding. Where can I wad the Climbing Works for their customer service?
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I think you have giving Graeme and percy your cash.
Mine came this morning too great service
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In contrast, having paid £3 p&p, I have just recieved an email from the BMC saying it's been dispatched. Booo! Sure someone posted yesterday saying they were going last night?
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They did, some folks on the other channel have reported receiving theirs already. They may have run out of time - the postie usually comes at 5pm and the shipment didn't come in till gone 3. When I left at 4.30 there was some frenzied activity trying to get all of them packaged and ready (we ordered 50 and they've all sold). Good news for the Dawes though, I think it's going to be a total smash.
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Apologies, got home to it on the mat! Seems it was only the email that was delayed!
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Outside had 100 signed copies delivered. There's probably about 50 left.
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Bought,read and i even got a mention in it.cheers jd
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is there any chance to get it to Italy?
where can I buy it, and will they ship to here?
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found it.
let's do it.
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Just finished it, brilliant, well done Johnny, an inspiring and very entertaining book, too many good bits!
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What are the chances of a second run? Or will this be as rare as a consumed DVD or a worth while rockfax?
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Available from his new website (http://www.johnnydawes.com/)
Also has some videos embedded, particularly liked this one...
Untitled (http://vimeo.com/30899616)
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Cheers for the link slakers this was an extra on welsh connnection. its a great short video
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That's lovely, cheers Slackers.
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Touching stuff. Impressive how well he's walking on shitty slate rubble, but sad how hard the climbing is. I winced at the muffed knee mantle! If only he had just a bit of something in his right arm...
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And if anyone at the works can get Johnny to sign it, I'll be a copy going to France.
It arrived yesterday, signed. Big shout out if anyone had a hand in it :clap2:
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Great link Slack-line ...... Inspirational and awe inspiring ...... Never thought it would be possible but Paul Pritchard's gone up even further in my estimation :bow:
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Anyone finished it yet? What's the verdict?
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I've just read it on holiday doyle, its good, you should get it. Not the easiest read in the world but like limestone it rewards persistence.
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Cheers. I like limestone and i like Dawes as he was my childhood hero so will get it.
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Anyone finished it yet? What's the verdict?
He uses the word "feral" far too often, but apart from that it's a good read.
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All this talk of quick deliveries...
I ordered a copy two weeks ago from his website, it still hasn't arrived.
If you're considering a purchase with an imminent holiday, maybe not the best option?
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Oh, I was going to order it from his website cause in the vid with Grimer he said he'd get more of the money.
Probably just get one from Works/Outside/BMC then.
J :-)
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I'm really enjoying it. Highlights so far are his description of Redhead failing on Doors of Perception and the all-too-familiar conversation with relatives chapter.
I didn't realise what his family background was like or how seriously he takes buildering- captioning a picture of yourself climbing a brick wall in your school playground with 'in retrospect, possibly the hardest climb in the world in 1981' is quite something!
I don't think I've ever come across a book that caters so little to the layman. God knows what a non-climber, or even a climber without an extensive knowledge of the UK trad scene would make of it! Reading Lynn Hill's, Jerry's and Ron's books I sometimes found myself wishing there was a bit less explanation for non-climbers, but despite understanding it all I find the opposite with this one. I imagine wanting it like that was part of the decision to self-publish, though.
I like how the spine just says 'Johnny Dawes'. It makes sense when you put it next to guidebooks on your shelf.
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Finished it yesterday. I really enjoyed it. Probably my second favourite climbing book after Deep Play. Easier to read than I expected too.
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Oh, I was going to order it from his website cause in the vid with Grimer he said he'd get more of the money.
Probably just get one from Works/Outside/BMC then.
J :-)
Outside still have quite a few signed copies still.
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All this talk of quick deliveries...
I ordered a copy two weeks ago from his website, it still hasn't arrived.
If you're considering a purchase with an imminent holiday, maybe not the best option?
Yeah mine's took just over a week. It was signed though.
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Johnny Dawes Interview (http://vimeo.com/31499915)
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;D was that meant to show johnny looking like a actual dwarf? hilarious either way.
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i've read the book
thanks johnny
i'm only gutted you didn't wear niall's jumper for that 3 min vid.
rp
p.s.
would it of been better if niall wore your trousers?
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Reading my way through the book and really enjoying it. Had me in stitches on many occasions. It's very Johnny, wonders a bit at times and then bounces right back to the point. A lot more depth to it than some of the other similar stuff I've read.
Well recommended.
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Saw him doing a talk on it last week. Delivery was great, but he was let down by awful sound at the wall, which was a pity.
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Saw him talk at Harrogate
My two penneth here
http://www.ticktock2011.blogspot.com/2011/10/perceptions-of-dawes.html (http://www.ticktock2011.blogspot.com/2011/10/perceptions-of-dawes.html)
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What are the chances of a second run? Or will this be as rare as a consumed DVD or a worth while rockfax?
we've just sent off a second edition/re-print, so assuming they turn out ok they'll be plenty more copies around (more use of the word 'feral' and the 'unforgiveable' spelling errors, mentioned in ed douglas's ukc review, corrected) - should also be an 'observer' review/profile in the next few weeks by peter beaumont... it'll never be as rare as the only ever worthwhile rockfax, peak bouldering ;)
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http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2011/dec/21/johnny-dawes-interview-rock-climbing (http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2011/dec/21/johnny-dawes-interview-rock-climbing)
at last, nicely written with some insight too
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Interview with Johnny on Planetmountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38930)
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Nice.
Eloquent, articulated. Talented. Artistic. Self-assured. These are the words that immediately spring to mind after speaking to Johnny Dawes,
(http://www.freefoto.com/images/21/25/21_25_27---Argos-Articulated-Lorry_web.jpg)
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Another interview with Johnny on Planet Mountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38930). Most interesting one I've read so far. :coffee:
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Another interview with Johnny on Planet Mountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38930). Most interesting one I've read so far. :coffee:
"Careless Torque. I told Ron Fawcett about it, and he climbed it just before me in 1987."
I didn't realise johnny had done CT! awesome etc.
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Another interview with Johnny on Planet Mountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38930). Most interesting one I've read so far. :coffee:
:whistle:
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Nice.
Eloquent, articulated. Talented. Artistic. Self-assured. These are the words that immediately spring to mind after speaking to Johnny Dawes,
(http://www.freefoto.com/images/21/25/21_25_27---Argos-Articulated-Lorry_web.jpg)
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finished. weirded out... (v similar teenage years)
saddened, sickened, empathised, gutted, enthused, inspired, gutted.
a truly great book IMO FWIW...
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You're all obviously much cleverer than I. Found it hard to concentrate on and confusing. Not unlike the man.
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I have to agree. A disparate collection of brilliant wee snippets, but all too thin on the ground, amongst what seemed to me like pages and pages of who knows what, particularly in the second half.
Who knows though, I'm sure I have poor literary taste, and I'm sure I'd probably say the same about Ulysses, if I could ever bring myself to read more than a couple of pages.
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I have to agree. A disparate collection of brilliant wee snippets, but all too thin on the ground, amongst what seemed to me like pages and pages of who knows what, particularly in the second half.
Who knows though, I'm sure I have poor literary taste, and I'm sure I'd probably say the same about Ulysses, if I could ever bring myself to read more than a couple of pages.
I'd agree. I'm yet to finish it and I'm only a handful of pages from the end.
Just got my hands on a copy from the man himself. Only dipped in so far, but its a nicely finished thing that in no way looks 'self-published'. But that approach has obviously given Johnny the freedom to do thing his way and there are LOADS of pictures and the odd sketch adding character. All looks great, will be getting stuck in asap.
It also introduced a shed load of errors into the book and for me they make it difficult and frustrating to read. I could understand it being "quintessentially Johnny" but in my eyes its quintessentially in need of an edit (especially for £25).
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Its a Dawes book. So yes it got errors, yes parts are hard to read, and there's long rambling sections that at the time don't seem to be going anywhere. Because its a Dawes book. I for one would quite frankly feel cheated if the book was anything other than slightly flawed, as it wouldn't feel authentic.
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What dave said. What on earth were you expecting? It certainly gave much more of a flavour of the man, and was much more interesting and entertaining than the Jerry book which I was dissapointed in (sorry vertebrate folk/grimer).
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Inclined to agree with "what dave said".
He's opted to self-publish, so despite others having aread and advising he has the final call on whats in and whats not. It's his book telling his story from his perspective, what more should one expect from a biography? :shrug:
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You're all obviously much cleverer than I. Found it hard to concentrate on and confusing. Not unlike the man.
White Peak/Dark Peak ;)
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I agree Jo - I am the lager!
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Of course you're all right, who would expect anything less than Dawes from his self-published autobiography?
I'm just saying I didn't think it was very good.
I'm sure Mein Kamph is "very Hitler" full of anti-semite diatribe, but worth (maybe) reading for a number of reasons other than it being good.
This is sort of how I felt about JD's tome - I certainly thought it was worth reading, all in all.
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What dave said. What on earth were you expecting?
A book that was memorable for conveying his unique life thus far, and his equally unique way of looking at things, rather than a book that was memorable for his 'unique' way of writing?
Its a poor argument to suggest that this book couldn't have achieved those things with a decent edit. For an example, the "TPOC" Johnny interview does a fantastic job of conveying his analogy of sliding cars (walking along Eccy rd. he was perched outside a coffee shop doing exactly that during the summer). Unless I suppose, shifting tense is actually what the man is all about.
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What dave said. What on earth were you expecting?
A book that was memorable for conveying his unique life thus far, and his equally unique way of looking at things, rather than a book that was memorable for his 'unique' way of writing?
Its a poor argument to suggest that this book couldn't have achieved those things with a decent edit. For an example, the "TPOC" Johnny interview does a fantastic job of conveying his analogy of sliding cars (walking along Eccy rd. he was perched outside a coffee shop doing exactly that during the summer). Unless I suppose, shifting tense is actually what the man is all about.
I didn't mean to imply it couldn't have acheived that with an edit, but I think it did do both without, and memorably. Sadly I suspect it would have been less likely to give a true impression with more editing. Perhaps not true of most subjects, but then Dawes is not most.
Anyway, it's a matter of taste i suppose...
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To my mind Dawes is a poetic writer - he is capable of producing beautifully apposite phrases and descriptions. However, he doesn't seem very capable of organising these in a way that flows and makes sense to a reader. One experience leaps to another, associated only in the author's mind. While it contains some very good writing, I wouldn't say it was well-written. I wouldn't want to read a novel written by him!
It certainly makes for an unconventional read. It contained some great anecdotes, some beautiful phrases, and photos and the early part was excellent, but then it became mystifying. Much of the book was dedicated to describing individual movements and the moments in which they took place. These are what seem to be important to Dawes, and in a way this illuminates the mind of a great climber.
At times when I was reading this I felt that it was a therapeutic exercise for the writer, rather than an autobiography designed for the reader. I felt it was a journey into Johnny's mind, rather than a journey through his life. Perhaps he's making the point that these are, metaphysically, the same thing?!
I don't know if I enjoyed it or not really - I think I agree that it would be a much better 'book' if someone had taken Dawes' rambling genius and imposed some form of logical order upon it.
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I thought it was really good myself. I maybe agree that it doesn't come across as written by a natural writer inasmuch as the logic is not always there to see. However i saw it in earlier versions and it had improved so much in this respect that I thought it had been well edited / self edited. It could have been a very hard-to-follow book, which might have represented Johnny accurately in some respects but been unreadable. It might have been very readable in a ghost-writteny way but not represented Johnny. As it is I think it's a great compromise.
I'm also impressed by how much effort it would take to grind out something like this off your own back which influences me I think.
Bits i liked best were what seemed to me to be where the clearest writing was, such as going to the Ferrari factory, being down and out in LA, cycling through France.
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A Dawes book was always going to be unconventional and therefore slightly polarising. I enjoyed it but preferred the structure and content of Jerry's book (but then JM is my hero)
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This was the first time I’ve read a climbing autobiography and then, immediately I finished, started from the beginning again. Partially because it was wonderful but partially because, in paces, it was so frustrating! But did anyone expect otherwise? It could have easily been a complete dog’s dinner but, like Dawes’ coaching, it is far more coherent than legend suggests it could have been. Parts of it are still chum.
Climbing careers have an arc to them. The excitement of the obsessive first 5-10 years of increasing achievement is inevitably followed by relative decline, accompanied by (choose 2 from 3) disappointment, injury, diversification, and (optional extra, available to mountaineers) death. To some degree then, the first section of a climbing biography writes itself. Full of Myself is a fascinating and brilliant read up to The Indian Face section which stands out, it’s familiarity jolting.
Biographers have a challenge maintaining interest in the third act of any climbing biography. How to treat the decline? Keep it brief, arrange content thematically (Revelations, The Hard Years),? Stick resolutely to chronology (Rock Athlete, The Villain)? As Johnny’s life, particularly post-Indian face, seems to have been rather unstructured his choice, describing a series of episodes with little interrelationship or clear chronology, seems appropriate. Or so I think now. I’m glad I re-read the second half of the book. It’s a book about Johnny the person rather than Johnny the climber, so much of it is not about climbing. It is the antithesis of Revelations in this respect. The non-climbing bits are often the best bits. First time around I got a bit lost and skimmed sections. Second time I was more patient and it revealed some of the most interesting writing of all.
Perhaps an editor and professional publication job might have helped, but the editing would have to be very subtle not to loose much of the charm and wonder. It absolutely does not need ghost-writing. A total immersion in the minutiae of 80s UK climbing does help in places: it will be an interesting task for a translator.
You have to read it.
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I agree with the total immersion in the scene bit. There one one line where he talked about sardines in Crispin's van. Crispin once told me that story about how JD let a whole can of sardines in oil fall into the air vents of a van so every time the air blew it smelled of rotten fish. I thought if I didn't know the story would I have understood the sentence. I think that's maybe why the non-climbing bits seemed clearer to me, as in you aren't relying on a shared knowledge.
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It’s a book about Johnny the person rather than Johnny the climber, so much of it is not about climbing.
Totally.
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Another interview with Johnny on Planet Mountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38930). Most interesting one I've read so far. :coffee:
"Careless Torque. I told Ron Fawcett about it, and he climbed it just before me in 1987."
I didn't realise johnny had done CT! awesome etc.
I didn't think Johnny meant to say that he'd done Careless Torque, but that he'd been interested in it but Ron had beaten him to the first ascent. I agree with anyone else the words used would imply he'd done it, but in Johnnyspeak I don't think it's necessarily so. If he has I certainly don't think it's ever been publicised before, though I stand to be corrected.
I really enjoyed it, but it does suffer a bit from what most climbing autobiographies do - the bits people are mainly interested in are stuff that happened a long time ago and the author has spoken about many times, and he probably doesn't feel are particularly relevant to him as he now is. I remember sitting next to Dennis Gray at dinner once, and he was full of talk about some tedious expedition to Morocco, whereas what I wanted, of course, was to hear what Joe and Don and the rest were "really" like. In FoM I'd have liked, for example, to hear more about how Stone Monkey came to be, and what if anything he was doing climbingwise after about 1988. And a little bit of chronological structure in the second part wouldn't have come amiss - how he got to LA in the first place, for instance. Still wonderful and unmissable, of course, and as Grimer said a good compromise between the usual footballer sort of thing and echt Johnny-circa-1984 unintelligibility, which I think many of his wellwishers rather feared.
In a funny way, I thought the best line in it was George Smith's - "if you ever saw Johnny climb in his prime, you never forgot what you saw".
Do his problems on the Manchester underpass still exist, I wonder? I suppose no-one has ever gone and done them - even the Stone Monkey arete? My favourite photo in the book was him on The Veil.
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Video interview on the Guardian (http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jan/01/johnny-dawes-climber-interview-video)
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Do his problems on the Manchester underpass still exist, I wonder?
yeah, walked past the arete a couple of weeks ago
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Love the vid
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Where is the underpass?
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Where is the underpass?
Isn't it under the A57(M) / Mancunian Way (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=Oxford+Road+Manchester&hl=en&ll=53.471087,-2.237005&spn=0.010537,0.033023&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=21.508101,67.631836&vpsrc=6&hnear=Oxford+Rd,+Manchester,+United+Kingdom&t=h&z=16). Several of the bridges/underpasses are quite similar so I'm not sure which section it is.
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its the pedestrain underpass section where the A34 goes under the motorway
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Where is the underpass?
Isn't it under the A57(M) / Mancunian Way. Several of the bridges/underpasses are quite similar so I'm not sure which section it is.
Yes it is. It's the crossing over Brook St by UMIST. The classic was called Concrete Society and takes the arete left of the Concrete Society design award plaque (if it's still there)
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UMIST is no more though (merged with Victoria Univ of Manchester in 2004 (http://www.manchester.ac.uk/aboutus/facts/history/)).
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Thanks guys.
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Haven’t read this thread till now as I didn’t want to read any spoilers it might hold. I’m about half way through and so far I think it’s magnificent. Unless the second half is chock full of errors I don’t see what folk are talking about vis-à-vis needing editing*. The only error I noticed was a sling being described as 2mm in one page and 3mm in another, which did not spoil things excessively for me I must admit.
So far it’s the best biography I’ve read (TBO I’ve only read climber biographies). It does take patience and some bits take re-reading to sink in but that’s because Johnny often uses uncommon (often truly brilliant) phrasing which is naturally unfamiliar and takes a bit of thinking around. I like the way it’s written with minimal explainer content. I don’t expect to understand everything said in a book any more than I do the lyrics of a song.
It’s not an easy read for many of the same reasons that it is a great read. It’s the first book in a long time that I intend to read twice.
*Paul, how can you hold this up against The Power of Climbing on the grounds of editting!? TPOC is the worst edited book I ever read. The photos are good and it interviews a lot of interesting (as well as a few utterly random) people but in all other respects it’s a poor book.
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*Paul, how can you hold this up against The Power of Climbing on the grounds of editting!? TPOC is the worst edited book I ever read.
It may be somewhat down to the fact that I have to pick at, and re-edit a lot of my own work at the minute and doing so makes you focus on the minutiae more than is normal. However, I found the book distracting to read, not due to content or a unique take on the world, purely on the basis of grammar. TPOC is poorly edited (true) but at least it doesn't contain shifting tense (and it was raised as an example to counter the point that the only way to convey his unique take on things was with flawed linguistics). Again, as I said before I'd have been a little more willing to accept its flaws if it was priced accordingly, but it wasn't. That's just my opinion and for what its worth I'm strongly of the opinion that if a book is to be a challenging read it should be so based solely on content.
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Wot Lovejoy said.
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I'm about halfway through too and +1 on gloveboy's sentiments.
Only reading a few pages a night, and not feeling the need to rush it.
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Jcm,
The arête and the plaque are still there. However a short and seemingly pointless fence has been attached to the base. That always saddened me whenever I walked past, even though I never had any intention of trying it (if I could even have got off the ground!)
I'm about a quarter through the book, enjoying it so far.
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Do his problems on the Manchester underpass still exist, I wonder? I suppose no-one has ever gone and done them
I remember heading down after work with with some other guys from Cotswolds on Oxford Road and we climbed the arete. 'Twas the time when Gaz Parry was working there and we had a pretty keen team.
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Bit late to this but I finished reading it last night and thought it was absolutely brilliant.
However, if I didn't know Johnny and quite a lot of the other people / climbs / places / stories involved already then perhaps the haphazard style and the stuff Paul mentions would have detracted from my enjoyment more. I have no way of knowing.
I must admit I was expecting to find it much harder to read and was surprised that it had turned out so well. The bit about liars / sponsorship was hilarious as I had wondered how he'd handle it.