21

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Tom de Gay on Yesterday at 09:49:42 am »

According to scripture (OTE ’97 guide), Big Golden has always been one of Big Four. I guess the clue is in the name. Watchtower is a comparatively recent addition, sometime between ’97 and ’02.

Also of note:

1991 Young and gifted David Rastouil just pips Jacky Godoffe to the post on the magnificent Rubis sur l'Ongle (or was it the ultra-discreet Antoine le Menestrel?) Just before leaving the area he manages Carnage, la Bérézina, la Balance, Infidele, Hypothese, Michel Ange, Big Boss, Fourmis Rouges, Tristesse and Big Golden all first try in the same session.

22

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by 205Chris on Yesterday at 09:40:41 am »

Bit OT but what is people's understanding of the big 5? BITD I always thought of the original big 4 as big boss, formis rouges, tristesse, and watchtower. That was then made 5 by the inclusion of atrésie. Looks like she did big golden rather than watchtower?

There's a list on UKC but that's from Remus and I don't know how recently that was put on

I always had in my head it was Big Golden, not Watchtower. I don't know where the definitive origin of that belief came from though.

Worth a watch if you've not seen it;

23

power club / Re: Power Club 749 15-21 April 2024

« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 09:35:58 am »

Also, my first time I've been to Bradford since about the same time. Driving through will only give a superficial impression but it did not look in good shape  .

It didn't look great when i worked there in the late 90s, wonder how it looks now? Only time we ever went out there was to get a cheap curry. Challenge was to spend over a tenner and manage to eat it all.

24

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Duma on Yesterday at 09:25:24 am »

Bit OT but what is people's understanding of the big 5? BITD I always thought of the original big 4 as big boss, formis rouges, tristesse, and watchtower. That was then made 5 by the inclusion of atrésie. Looks like she did big golden rather than watchtower?

There's a list on UKC but that's from Remus and I don't know how recently that was put on

25

diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners

« Last post by steveri on Yesterday at 09:13:33 am »

You could also join a club with no interest in the marathon - if setup right the club has an allocated spot

26

power club / Re: Power Club 749 15-21 April 2024

« Last post by duncan on Yesterday at 08:47:17 am »

Well done Duma, sounded like you were close last week but that’s not the same as sealing the deal!

M - Hip flexibility: frog stretch, pancake stretch, sumo squats. Shoulder and elbow care: handstands, side planks, reverse curls

T - ~10km brisk walk.

W - Some kind of lurgy. Hip flexibility.

T - Still bleurgh. Hip flexibility. Fingerboard pickups, left only.

F - Mildly bleurgh. Hip flexibility. Shoulder care.

S - Maham, first time at the cat walk! Did the three easiest sport routes on the crag, elbow was sore after. Shark’s sixtieth soirée, great fun despite the failure of the attempt to burn down the village hall.

S - Stoney Bank with Bruce. Easy trad. is my go-to for elbow rehab. Possibly in response to the despicable retro-bolting here, my elbow didn't like the former easy trad. routes we did at all.


Great weekend socially, good to get out into the country, the climbing was a bit frustrating.

Malham is magnificent of course but the drive reminded me why I've not been more often. According to guidebooks I visited once in 1988, during my semi-retirement, and did Carnage. I have no memory of this although I do recall wandering up Gordale and chatting with Andy Pollitt about retro-bolting aid routes around the same time. In some ways it was fortunate the routes I aspire to (Yosemite Wall) were dripping otherwise my elbow might be (even) worse.

Also, my first time I've been to Bradford since about the same time. Driving through will only give a superficial impression but it did not look in good shape  .

Plan: continue elbow rehab., hip flexibility.

27

diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners

« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 08:45:13 am »

I think uncommon postcodes might have a fair bit to do with the ballot. My wife, me and the neighbour over the road all got ballot places first time (although being on the day of my 50th birthday may have swung mine). Can't get many applications from AB39...

28

music, art and culture / Re: The right to counter-protest

« Last post by andy popp on Yesterday at 06:11:11 am »

In Copenhagen have there been counter-protests to the Gaza protests and have any of those entailed rowdyness?

I haven't seen any counter protests, or any trouble of any kind (not claiming there has been none, only that I haven't seen any).

29

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Paul B on Yesterday at 03:38:17 am »

You definitely have a point, but for me it's interesting to see how incredibly capable she is on rock despite not really spending that much time outside relatively (witness her 2 8c os in a week a couple of years back). 

That may well be true but I'm not sure that this achievement demonstrates that itself; the big 5 would succumb to an over-strong person? That sounds really negative reading it back but that's not what I'm trying to convey.

30

diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners

« Last post by lukeyboy on April 22, 2024, 10:49:09 pm »

 I didn't do it though have continued my annual tradition of entering the ballot for next year (unsuccessfully thus far).

I was solo parenting this weekend but managed to catch a bit of it from a park bench while my kids played in the bushes. British 3-4 was great, and seeing if MM could catch Cairess in the closing stages.