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1
diet, training and injuries / Re: Recovery, Sleep and getting older
« Last post by chrisbrooke on Today at 09:22:05 pm »
I'm enjoying this thread. I'm 44 with two young kids (5, 8 ) and more or less do all the things advised against here, and as a result don't climb that hard, and don't recover that well...   By the time I've done my day's work, got the kids to bed, had dinner, caught up on any work I missed due to taking the kids to after-school clubs etc, I'm often not training until after 10, sometimes 11pm.

That said, I generally get out climbing in the middle of the day (and subsequently work until late at night to catch up the hours), so I can't complain about that.
My key takeaway from this is to prioritise sleep, which is something I've always struggled to do. There's so much info out there that it's the easiest 'win', a super-power, etc, but I just find it so hard to get to bed early.

Or, that I should retire, which definitely appeals.
2
shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!
« Last post by Sidehaas on Today at 09:14:14 pm »
That was essentially what I was getting at, unsure of any benefit of getting a hybrid and wondering about the gradual phasing out of fossil fuel cars once they ban their production. I guess that will be incredibly gradual.
Hybrids are basically marketed as a stepping stone for people nervous about going electric, but for the vast majority of people now, any anxiety is unnecessary (I took my son to Font in ours, it was ok). Full electric is much better than a hybrid and prices aren't much different (everything is expensive!)
Used combustion petrol and diesels will still be around for many years, only new ones will be banned. Although by 2030 there will be a decent range of used EVs up to a good few years old, so they'll be available at a better range of prices too.

If my memory serves me right, you live in the Netherlands?

I'm all for getting an EV myself, but I'm under no illusion that the UK is still quite poorly served by charging infrastructure. NL has nearly 30% of all the chargers installed in the entire EU!!  https://www.acea.auto/press-release/electric-cars-half-of-all-chargers-in-eu-concentrated-in-just-two-countries/
Haha no, Dutch name but my ancestors moved across here about 170 years ago!
The charging infrastructure needs to improve and keep growing with demand but actually, if you know what you are doing, it's now perfectly adequate for long trips in the big majority of England (and also France through to Germany and Scandinavia). It has come on loads in just the last 12 months. It's poor in Wales and relatively sparse in Scotland (although per person they supposedly have more chargers).
So yer, the infrastructure is not a reason to avoid EV any more for longer trips, for most people. The horror stories you see are a mixture of deliberate BS and user error (mostly the latter - you do have to do some reading around the subject). For day to day stuff, they are less convenient if you don't have a home charger (ie driveway, basically), but super easy if you do. And obviously the cost of a new car is a barrier to many.
3
shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!
« Last post by Fultonius on Today at 09:05:37 pm »
That was essentially what I was getting at, unsure of any benefit of getting a hybrid and wondering about the gradual phasing out of fossil fuel cars once they ban their production. I guess that will be incredibly gradual.
Hybrids are basically marketed as a stepping stone for people nervous about going electric, but for the vast majority of people now, any anxiety is unnecessary (I took my son to Font in ours, it was ok). Full electric is much better than a hybrid and prices aren't much different (everything is expensive!)
Used combustion petrol and diesels will still be around for many years, only new ones will be banned. Although by 2030 there will be a decent range of used EVs up to a good few years old, so they'll be available at a better range of prices too.

If my memory serves me right, you live in the Netherlands?

I'm all for getting an EV myself, but I'm under no illusion that the UK is still quite poorly served by charging infrastructure. NL has nearly 30% of all the chargers installed in the entire EU!!  https://www.acea.auto/press-release/electric-cars-half-of-all-chargers-in-eu-concentrated-in-just-two-countries/
4
diet, training and injuries / Re: Recovery, Sleep and getting older
« Last post by kac on Today at 08:38:58 pm »
I'm 47 with 2 young kids and most of my climbing consists of board climbing. I've tried most things over the years - even bought an acrappi top for anyone who remembers that scam! Come to the conclusion that sleep is by far the most important thing and don't bother with any supplements anymore. For me changing to training at lunchtime has made the biggest change as any evening training seems to totally ruin my sleep. I'm lucky in that I have Flexi time, work from home and have a board. If it is at all possible I would give it a try.
5
shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!
« Last post by Sidehaas on Today at 08:33:08 pm »
That was essentially what I was getting at, unsure of any benefit of getting a hybrid and wondering about the gradual phasing out of fossil fuel cars once they ban their production. I guess that will be incredibly gradual.
Hybrids are basically marketed as a stepping stone for people nervous about going electric, but for the vast majority of people now, any anxiety is unnecessary (I took my son to Font in ours, it was ok). Full electric is much better than a hybrid and prices aren't much different (everything is expensive!)
Used combustion petrol and diesels will still be around for many years, only new ones will be banned. Although by 2030 there will be a decent range of used EVs up to a good few years old, so they'll be available at a better range of prices too.
6
diet, training and injuries / Re: Recovery, Sleep and getting older
« Last post by webbo on Today at 08:18:01 pm »
No just drink more red wine.

Then the wife will leave with the kids and you probably lose your job. But it wonít be your fault that you ended up as a climbing bum.
7
diet, training and injuries / Re: Sharkathon 2023
« Last post by webbo on Today at 08:14:07 pm »
Man, Sharkathon feels like it was a bit of a bloodbath this year. How many people fulfilled the criteria and avoided (re)injury? Seems like just Lagers and Spidermonkey.

I'm an exercise Trotskyite, on a permanent sharkathon. I usually have some ache or pain but it's almost always possible to do something. Generally the only thing that stops me is a cold (or covid). When the world was taking more care not to spread bugs I managed all 365 days in 2021 and every day of 2020 til mid. December when I got covid. This year, I failed on day 10.

Good luck webbo, not that you need it. If you've walked a mile on post-op. day 7 it's fair to say you're well ahead of most people's recovery timescale!
The only down side to this I seem to have changed my  left foot( op side) in to some sort of trotter.
Fortunately itís not hot or even slightly raised in temperature.
8
diet, training and injuries / Re: Recovery, Sleep and getting older
« Last post by ali k on Today at 08:02:15 pm »
so the best thing to do for recovery is stop working? :-\ 

Wasnít this Maccy Dís advice in that 9/10 book? Sacrifice everything, leave your wife, quit work, sleep at the climbing wall, eat lard etc.
9
diet, training and injuries / Re: Sharkathon 2023
« Last post by Duma on Today at 07:57:56 pm »
Big up all you lot who kept trying! I sacked it off on the 12th, with sleep struggles and work taking a fair bit more energy than normal I was already at 65% ish, and just couldn't face it.
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diet, training and injuries / Re: Sharkathon 2023
« Last post by duncan on Today at 07:50:08 pm »
Man, Sharkathon feels like it was a bit of a bloodbath this year. How many people fulfilled the criteria and avoided (re)injury? Seems like just Lagers and Spidermonkey.

I'm an exercise Trotskyite, on a permanent sharkathon. I usually have some ache or pain but it's almost always possible to do something. Generally the only thing that stops me is a cold (or covid). When the world was taking more care not to spread bugs I managed all 365 days in 2021 and every day of 2020 til mid. December when I got covid. This year, I failed on day 10.

Good luck webbo, not that you need it. If you've walked a mile on post-op. day 7 it's fair to say you're well ahead of most people's recovery timescale!
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