UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: uptown on July 22, 2008, 10:13:55 am
-
Do you know about the history of Blackhead btw? Can you ask Streaky if not? I think he did it with the bolt hole - I've got Doug Shepherd written down somewhere for an ascent without but he might be a giant? Anyhow - a superb 7b/+ morpho highball which probably deserves inclusion.
Tom did this last Thursday, a quality highball escaping right from the break. A slightly morpho span for a sloper off an undercut. 7b?
He also flashed that lowball thing which is 7a+ in hindsight, though when asked for a grade he just said it was "hard."
Recently I did 'The Wayne Fontana trip' - a there and back version of fieldside. When your lefthand is in the pocket on the arete finish, cross over to the sloper and drop down to the jugs, before reversing fieldside to step off on the wall. 7b+
I'll post a couple of photos and the list at some point.
-
Where is Blackhead? Highball 7b is probably a bit rich for my blood... but if it's a bit morpho I'd like to give it a look.
A heads-up when you post any beta / photo's for Fieldside normal would be much appreciated too - I've long intended to make it a project but can't figure it out (dropping down to the low shelf near the start etc?). By any chance was Wayne Fontana partially motivated by a desire to avoid any risk of flying off into the tremendous cowshit/bog entity under the arete!
-
Where is Blackhead? Highball 7b is probably a bit rich for my blood... but if it's a bit morpho I'd like to give it a look.
Blackhead is at the right side of Black wall - good flat landing, not too boggy at this time of year. Two pads are enough imo. It would suit anyone with a good ape index, so might be your kind of cuppa Moose.
Photos of Ru trying it last week:
(http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pu9jDyklAGOuPfah6B0H8iJYImk6T88cDy9z2Cqu_bpFnc_vJhfmoPWaE8Nmbot8_j2v7CgTwrQg)
(http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pHx9kh6EH4LM35npajo-wyzhvOqfsNI-dc0vj2LbqpnbGfI1E8Cu1omSCwRuepa7YsluTLzhnpcE)
A heads-up when you post any beta / photo's for Fieldside normal would be much appreciated too - I've long intended to make it a project but can't figure it out (dropping down to the low shelf near the start etc?). By any chance was Wayne Fontana partially motivated by a desire to avoid any risk of flying off into the tremendous cowshit/bog entity under the arete!
Wayne Fontana was motivated by my need to train on long traverses - I have a dream...
If the Fieldside landing is too boggy, then you can stay low at the end as Streaky did - it's a bit easier but still 7b.
My photos won't help with Beta, but I have a video clip Moose - PM me your email and I'll forward it. If you are struggling on the drop down then try reaching to an undercut rather than sharing the flatty. It's a bit of a cheat but probably the same grade.
Updated 7+8 list is here - comments as ever appreciated.
http://cid-3af88d681771538a.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Yorkshire%207+8/Almscliff%20list1.xls (http://cid-3af88d681771538a.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Yorkshire%207+8/Almscliff%20list1.xls)
-
Looks sweet, has the reprobate got a car yet or is he still scrounging lifts?
-
Looks sweet, has the reprobate got a car yet or is he still scrounging lifts?
Still scrounging...when you back from midge heaven?
The Thompson's up your way this week - running the ridge whilst holding his breath - say hello from me ;)
-
Think I might have done this as a dyno not being able to span between the undercut and the good hold, although my knowledge of black wall is not as good as that of the rest of the cliff, so perhaps the tight crop and odd angle are throwing me off...
-
Think I might have done this as a dyno not being able to span between the undercut and the good hold, although my knowledge of black wall is not as good as that of the rest of the cliff, so perhaps the tight crop and odd angle are throwing me off...
I'd be very impressed if you had Stubbs, it's not a lot short of 6', round a bulge, and the hold you go for is a poor sloper with a slight pocket indentation. Tom needed several goes to latch it - I think that proves the difficulty.
There is a good 7a+ dyno further left, off undercuts for the juggy foothold on 'Arries 'ook. That might be what you're thinking of. It's on the list but not on YG or in the present book.
Blackhead made the afterthoughts section of the YG guidebook and is just left of the BWEliminate.
-
That's the dyno I was thinking of - will have to give this a go when I get back in country then, although I know Ru and Tom are not the shortest of people, if you managed to reach the hold that leaves me with some hope!
-
Still scrounging...when you back from midge heaven?
August 9th...
The Thompson's up your way this week - running the ridge whilst holding his breath - say hello from me ;)
Ha- good luck to him. If he can see the ridge, he's lucky- there's blue sky everywhere but for some reason the mountains are covered in cloud...
-
there's blue sky everywhere but for some reason the mountains are covered in cloud...
Welcome to the mountains. Mix some meteorology with your geology.
-
there's blue sky everywhere but for some reason the mountains are covered in cloud...
:lol:
Let me guess, for some crazy reason it's colder when you go up the mountains too? Weird or what?
-
No, it's hotter, because you're closer to the sun. Duh!
-
:lol: :lol:
Naturally.
-
Messing around this evening on the dyno directly up the wall left of the arete. It was pretty dark by the time I snagged it but I guess 6c/7a. I went right handed but I felt left would work too. Undoubtedly climbed 'for fun' since the day dot, it's a worthy exercise in boingability so try it next time you're there.
-
is that the one next to Wall of Horrors? You'll be glad to know Rupert and Matt are crushing lots of things at the moment. They're keen for Play Dead - Power Stamina should be your bag!
-
is that the one next to Wall of Horrors?
No, the clue was in the title Andi...
-
Making shapes heads directly up the centre of the Pistol whip wall.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_7P0Ja6mm5rs/SSxoU5Z5yiI/AAAAAAAAAAw/Kl85pPKAMUA/s320/pistolright1.jpg)
You can see failed attempts at the beginning of Through landscape. (http://vimeo.com/groups/4295/videos/2362050)
-
Nice vid there, Guru.
-
Nice vid. Where does making shapes finish Andy? Do you use the pockets at the top of Pistol Whip or go out right?
-
Nice vid. Where does making shapes finish Andy? Do you use the pockets at the top of Pistol Whip or go out right?
It's the direct solution where the whip pulls left.The crux is deadpointing the three finger edge with your righthand. You then cross over to the large pocket and the finish.
-
So MS starts as for Pistol whip moves right and gets the pocket in your left? How hard is it?
-
So MS starts as for Pistol whip moves right and gets the pocket in your left? How hard is it?
I couldn't figure an alternative to the way I did the crux. The holds take you up and right from where I am in the photo. You share no holds with the whip after the groove. It's hard, yet I'd expect JB to walk up it.
-
Nice one utg. Looks really cool.
I can see that in light of recent controversies you've decided against assigning a grade. Probably sensible. ;)
-
Ironically, if you followed the red arrow and description from the tc book, you'd be climbing ms.
-
It's hard, yet I'd expect JB to walk up it.
Who's JB? Not me, remember looking at this years ago and there being no holds.
-
Who's JB?
I did mean you Mr B. I've only just got hold of stick-it and after watching it thought ms looked like your kinda bag. Have a wad for looking at it in the past anyhow.
-
I'll be keen to try it, Pistol Whip was always my favourite problem at the 'cliff. I doubt very much I'll be 'walking up it' though.
-
I needed a fresh challenge this afternoon so did 'larutan traverse' - about 7b+.
Sitstart on the block at the top of the gully, reverse sloper patrol and natural traverse to top out up the pleasant lower arete.
Undoubtedly climbed by many in the past, I'm only highlighting it since it's fun, and it'll give all those traditionalists a proper finish for sloper patrol.
-
Making shapes heads directly up the centre of the Pistol whip wall.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_7P0Ja6mm5rs/SSxoU5Z5yiI/AAAAAAAAAAw/Kl85pPKAMUA/s320/pistolright1.jpg)
You can see failed attempts at the beginning of Through landscape. (http://vimeo.com/groups/4295/videos/2362050)
Nice vid yoot!
-
A little sparkle looks a nice little problem.
-
A little sparkle looks a nice little problem.
Don't let Fiend see that!
A few more to represent good old Yorkshire:
If we're going to those lowly grades, then G's gotta be representing...
A Little Sparkle, Guisecliffe
Okay it's not so crimpy but it is brilliant.
It is a great problem, but it probably needs a brush right now.
-
Of course. The comprehensive list!
-
And another one from today - 'Waynes wondeful world' 7b+/c?
It's fieldside, but eliminating the jug and good sidepull in favour of poor undercuts and the sloper wave at the start.
Totally eliminate, yet with simple rules and an opportunity to stick some of the meanest slopers on grit. Friction needs to be your friend on this.
-
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
-
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
Ru was spotted at Boulderuk....
-
Not that Ru...
-
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
No. Blamed it on Friday night.
JI was trying MS and doing well when I saw him.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_7P0Ja6mm5rs/SUVq9H3-laI/AAAAAAAAABg/3FLzdLR-vos/s320/Jamesmakingshapes2.jpg)
-
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
No. Blamed it on Friday night.
JI was trying MS and doing well when I saw him.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_7P0Ja6mm5rs/SUVq9H3-laI/AAAAAAAAABg/3FLzdLR-vos/s320/Jamesmakingshapes2.jpg)
Is that the crux move hitting that crimp and holding it?
-
Did rupert crush today? Or did he not get out?
No. Blamed it on Friday night.
JI was trying MS and doing well when I saw him.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_7P0Ja6mm5rs/SUVq9H3-laI/AAAAAAAAABg/3FLzdLR-vos/s320/Jamesmakingshapes2.jpg)
Is that the crux move hitting that crimp and holding it?
Yep, he's eyeing it up for his righthand in the pic.
I don't know if he did it tonight?
-
We can probably archive this thread for now : uptown (http://www.andycrome.blogspot.com/)
7+8's to be published 2009.
-
Conditions for tomorrow please?
Planning a family trip out.
-
Cold and dry, most likely. No breeze here, could be one there. could be anywhere from 6/10 to 10/10, breeze dependant. Might be out in the morning, hopefully.
-
I was there this morning - cold and clammy with a slight breeze. The rock was dry but not exactly "mint" - thankfully the crag seemed free of the thick fog that's swathing the area to the SE (i.e. along the northbound A1). Incidentally, the farmer has been letting his cows roam around with predictable results - tread carefully!
-
Cheers chaps.
Am I to assume that Demon Wall Roof area is a tad poohy then? please don't tell me that an enterprising cow has curled one out under the Keel block, or even more impressively/improbably under Jess's Roof...
-
Cheers chaps.
Am I to assume that Demon Wall Roof area is a tad poohy then? please don't tell me that an enterprising cow has curled one out under the Keel block, or even more impressively/improbably under Jess's Roof...
Thankfully, so far as I could see, there were no "deposits" under any of the major problems - the cows are largely staying in the Black Wall area (where their fodder is). Just the odd tuft of hair and pat in the grass.
-
Cheers chaps.
Am I to assume that Demon Wall Roof area is a tad poohy then? please don't tell me that an enterprising cow has curled one out under the Keel block, or even more impressively/improbably under Jess's Roof...
Thankfully, so far as I could see, there were no "deposits" under any of the major problems - the cows are largely staying in the Black Wall area (where their fodder is). Just the odd tuft of hair and pat in the grass.
Most of the cliff - aside from the above mentioned black wall area seems to remain remarkably poo free - though sometimes around flying arete/three swings area theres a good spraying :-)
Might be up there tomorrow myself about 11 ish - if my consumption lets up :)
Looking forward to it ;D
-
Nice vid. Where does making shapes finish Andy? Do you use the pockets at the top of Pistol Whip or go out right?
It's the direct solution where the whip pulls left.The crux is deadpointing the three finger edge with your righthand. You then cross over to the large pocket and the finish.
Had a pop at this today on the way home from an unfriendly Rylstone, twas nice to be back at the 'cliff after so long. Luckily there was a local on hand to show me the sequence, would never have figured it out otherwise, couldn't even remember what went on on pistol whip. I can smugly report I was right and I didn't walk up it. Got through to the right-hand crimp nicely once but left hand blew, then it went dark. Will definitely try it again if I pass by in the near future, good effort. What grade did you reckon?
Is that vid online still, doesn't seem to be working?
7+8's to be published 2009.
Is this a list or a full guide?
-
Had a pop at this today on the way home from an unfriendly Rylstone
did the line that bransby wanted to do get done?
-
Not whilst I was there.
-
Had a pop at this today on the way home from an unfriendly Rylstone, twas nice to be back at the 'cliff after so long. Luckily there was a local on hand to show me the sequence, would never have figured it out otherwise, couldn't even remember what went on on pistol whip. I can smugly report I was right and I didn't walk up it. Got through to the right-hand crimp nicely once but left hand blew, then it went dark. Will definitely try it again if I pass by in the near future, good effort. What grade did you reckon?
Is that vid online still, doesn't seem to be working?
7+8's to be published 2009.
Is this a list or a full guide?
Cheers Adam,
Who was your local then? I was free today too - in a busy kinda way...
I think in the 7c/+ ballpark, but we'll have to wait and see if anyone repeats it.
Did you try waynes wonderful world or mindbending whilst you were there or are they too log?
Could be a list or guide...
-
Might have been rupert, he was keen to get out. What does Mindbending do? I don't understand... too many links!
-
Could a member of the Almscliff massive peer into their tea leaves and predict which will be the choice day this weekend? Or is it going to be a write-off of rain and misery?
All predictions gratefully recieved.
-
It may be dry, but it looks like it's going to be windy as fuck both days, sunday looks like the better choice out of the two
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/dayforecast.asp?zipcode=ls21&day=2 (http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/dayforecast.asp?zipcode=ls21&day=2)
bring some tent pegs for your mat and your dog!
-
Hmmmmmm, maybe try and persuade the family to stay at home. Or pack them off to the farm shop cafe for cake and coffee again.
-
Who was your local then?
Neil d. He got to the same place as me, though he did reckon you could pop to the left hand pocket instead.
Did you try waynes wonderful world or mindbending
Don't know where they were to be honest. Its a good three years since I was last there, and seven since I was there regularly...
-
I think Andy will be pleased to know that I repeated his masterpiece, Making Shapes, on Friday. I had tried it once before (the day I did Bulbhaul) in dwindling light and falling off the last move to the big pocket. The same happened on Friday, skin was sore and light was scarce, I'd latched the crux a few times before holding the final jug.
I can certainly vouch for its quality. One of the best problems at the cliff. I always liked pistol whip but I reckon this is better due to its sheer blankness. I gather Andy did the last move to the big pocket first go (not sure if he had worked the move on top rope or not). I thought this move was harder than he gave credit for. I soon dicoverd the key was to get a good LF placement, after much frustration!
Well done Andy, another neo-classic!!!!! :thumbsup:
As for grade, I think probably harder than 7c but not quite 8a so, by default, 7c+ seems fair! Andy said it is the hardest thing he has done so I reckon that is a good indicator that it is more than 7c. Maybe a crimpy, technical Bleusard could walk up it but I'd like to think not. Nice one mate!
-
Caley and Almscliff in the same day. Not bad.
-
It was more a quest for the sun!!! I've had enough of freezing my arse off at the crag now. Bring on Font in April. Conditions won't be great but hopefully it'll be warm!
-
I think Andy will be pleased to know that I repeated his masterpiece, Making Shapes, on Friday. I had tried it once before (the day I did Bulbhaul) in dwindling light and falling off the last move to the big pocket. The same happened on Friday, skin was sore and light was scarce, I'd latched the crux a few times before holding the final jug.
I can certainly vouch for its quality. One of the best problems at the cliff. I always liked pistol whip but I reckon this is better due to its sheer blankness.
Well done Andy, another neo-classic!!!!! :thumbsup:
As for grade, I think probably harder than 7c but not quite 8a so, by default, 7c+ seems fair! Andy said it is the hardest thing he has done so I reckon that is a good indicator that it is more than 7c. Maybe a crimpy, technical Bleusard could walk up it but I'd like to think not. Nice one mate!
Well done Tom!
It's refreshing to finally see a repeat and hear some positive comments about what may prove to be my swansong.
Making shapes probably deserves to be at a different crag or in a different county.
Seeing as it's taken you specific beta and several (albeit short) sessions, I can't see the repeat floodgates opening, and I wouldn't argue with 7c+/8a.
The skillset necessary to climb this kind of problem is a rarity in blodderers nowadays, and I fear it'll be overlooked as a consequence. That's one of the reasons I was touting 8a - in the hope that the numberchasers might be inspired to try it.
It'd be good to see Phoenix wall get some attention now - old skool class doesn't get much better than that.
-
Making shapes probably deserves to be at a different crag or in a different county.
Seeing as it's taken you specific beta and several (albeit short) sessions, I can't see the repeat floodgates opening, and I wouldn't argue with 7c+/8a.
The skillset necessary to climb this kind of problem is a rarity in blodderers nowadays, and I fear it'll be overlooked as a consequence. That's one of the reasons I was touting 8a - in the hope that the numberchasers might be inspired to try it.
It'd be good to see Phoenix wall get some attention now - old skool class doesn't get much better than that.
I love these sort of problems, there's just not enough of them around. Slim Shady at Earl springs to mind but it's no way near as asthetic as MS. It could be 8a. I can't really think of that many 8a walls though. Done quite a few 7c+ walls in Font years ago and it seems about the same or slightly harder. Going to Font in late April so could do a comparison check then!
Keen to try Pheonix Wall too Andy.
-
Tom go to Rivelin Quarries and try Nik's Wall. Unrepeated 8A wall climbing.
-
:wall:
-
Never heard of that problem before. I'll try to make my way over. Any pics or descriptions of it/where it is?
-
Never heard of that problem before. I'll try to make my way over. Any pics or descriptions of it/where it is?
:lol: Search the forums, its been mentioned "once or twice" :lol:
-
The description Burbage "To Infinity and Beyond" is best, how much did you have to pay Grimer for that Nik?
-
Grimer looked after me very well in that guidebook and as such is always welcome to call round for tea and cake. No specific payment was discussed but now I'm getting nervous....
I was sure I banged on and on about this problem endlessly but in the light of Toms ignorance I will have to re-double my efforts.
Modesty prevents me quoting Burbage, Millstone and beyond here...
...oh to hell with it.
Nik's Wall V11 (7a)
After many hours spent with a powerful; microscope, you may notice that there are some crimps on this wall. When you learn that this wall has been climbed on these holds, you may wish to readjust your concept of the possible.
Nice, incidentally whilst in the area you may want to check out:
Probably one of the ten purest pieces of gritstone architecture - barely climbable.
-
Please forgive my ignorance. My encyclopedic knowledge of this forum isn't up to scratch yet :'(
If I can get my hands on a microscope I'll check it out when I manage to get out of sight of Leeds - some day soon hopefully!
-
Search the forums, its been mentioned "once or twice" per week
On a serious note, get yourself up there, Tom. Get it sent and put us all out of our misery.
-
Search the forums, its been mentioned "once or twice" per week
On a serious note, get yourself up there, Tom. Get it sent and put us all out of our misery.
(and downgrade it) :)
-
Sadly, I think that's rather unlikely. :lol:
-
Right had a look through the threads for info. The only details I can get is it's hard, the footholds are shit, the handholds are shit and no-one else has done it. Couldn't see any photos. My curiosity is bulging (for want of a better phrase). Keen for a trip. In fact I'm visiting family in Rotherham next weekend, I could theoretically make it over if my exhaust doesn't fall of and my tyres don't burst (long overdue service).
Anyone keen to point out pieces of rock to me?
-
Tom go to Rivelin Quarries and try Nik's Wall. Unrepeated 8A wall climbing.
I'll pander to Niks ego here and suggest that 8a might be a touch conservative for this piece of rock. :bow:
I'd have to giggle if the second ascent went down to a non-local though.
I'll happily show you round there Tom, but don't expect a quick tick from it!
-
Oh Guru you sweetie...
The footholds are actually not that bad Tom, keep us posted on how you get on. I'd offer to show you round myself but I'm no longer a Sheffield local. The other problems next to it are also good (Iain's Arete, Happy Campus, Cheeks and Beaks) and the Guru probably has an ulterior motive for showing you round as he has a couple of choice items of his own he'll no doubt point you at.
-
Grimer's description of Nik's Wall is at odds with most first people's first impressions. Most people think, "Hey, I can see holds, they don't look that bad - I think I can see the sequence..." Several grunts later, the computer says eh-uh.
Whilst you're there, please repeat Beak no Weevil and tell me what grade you think it is. Right arete of the Mini Beak roof, feet above the break. Cheers!
-
Right the pressure is mounting, I don't want to disappoint anyone now ;) It sounds like a good place to visit and plenty of stuff to go at. I saw that Cheeks and Beaks thread, nice looking problem and rock.
Can't remember the last time I climbed in the Peak (may have been about 3 years ago when doing my dissertation at Stanage). I wish I was still a student and not in these permanent 9-5 shackles. I always find myself preoccupied with something up here and put a visit off. I've been on a FA mission for a few years now and struggled to get out of Yorkshire. There is some stuff I really want to do in the Peak, a couple of hard overhanging things that look my style. I may have missed prime conditions til winter? 8a (or harder) wall climbing is not my usual forte but I'm keen for Rivelin now. Will a local be able to tell me if something like the Ace/Joker/Voyager will still be in condition in a couple of weeks time (without getting up at a ridiculous hour)? I understand that JB did the Joker recently.
Cheers for all the info (and offer of a climbing date UTG :-*)
-
I don't want to piss on anyone's chips here but there are two reasons why Nik's wall is unrepeated. First, its hard. Second, because its at a venue which isn't popular for good reasons. I don't know of anyone who has tried it seriously, simply because Rivelin is a one-trip-a-season-at-most kind of venue.
Basically, if you're making a rare trip to the peak go somewhere good. Yes there's every chance the hard classics will be in condition, if its cool. It might not be. Over the last ten years I've discovered you can get good grit conditions anytime of year, it can be great in July and boiling in February. All that changes are the odds of it happening.
-
I hear what your saying. I quite like quiet esoteric venues though and it's got me intruiged now.
I've found that conditions can be a fickle old game too. I tend to keep climbing on grit in the summer and done some hard stuff then. Since last week, which I thought was the advent of a spectacular summer, it's got fuckin freezing again. I was really happy that I could go out and not freeze my arse off but then disappointed that I hadn't treid some of the hard classics out of Yorks which are on my list. I'm hoping for a cold but dry day next Sunday then.
Good effort on the Joker JB
-
I don't want to piss on anyone's chips here but there are four reasons why Nik's wall is unrepeated. First, its hard. Second, because its at a venue which isn't popular for no good reasons. I don't know of anyone who has tried it seriously, simply because Rivelin is a one-trip-a-season-at-most kind of venue.
Basically, if you're making a rare trip to the peak go somewhere good. Yes there's every chance the hard classics will be in condition, if its cool. It might not be. Over the last ten years I've discovered you can get good grit conditions anytime of year, it can be great in July and boiling in February. All that changes are the odds of it happening.
three - it's a style of bloddering that people lack the necessary skills for (with a few exceptions - JB included)
four - people keep pissing on those chips for no good reason - isn't it harder to be positive than negative nowadays?
When I was a local I climbed at Rivelin often throughout its season and enjoyed every day - there are some fantastic routes too Tom though I appreciate you're scared of heights.... ;)
-
I've climbed at Rivelin a lot and enjoyed every session too. But I don't kid myself its a great bouldering venue. I hate to appear negative, but lots of good climbers have had brief goes on Nik's Wall. None have bothered going back, because neither the venue nor the line are particularly inspiring. Nik himself admits it was climbed during a period when he was obsessed with Rivelin quarries. I'm not sure that particular obsession strikes folk very often. Until it does its going to remain overlooked.
-
i understand the carlisle slapper has had some time on nik's wall this winter. the fact its not been done reeks of it being harder than 8a I recon.
rivelin is a good, and very useful venue. i did cheeks when it was snowing, and everywhere else was a writeoff. awesome routes/soloing too.
-
I think if your looking for a venue with pretty reliable conditions, short walk-in and a handful of mid seven-ish problem then it's as good a venue as anywhere else.
I concede the point that people may not be SYKED and RAD to make multiple visits to try the same problem over and over again. But surely this is a common feature of all harder problems?
Is the line inspiring? Well for me it was or I wouldn't have invested the enormous amount of time in it that I did. But I like the aesthetic of blank walls with nothingy holds on them, however I can see how people might consider it lineless. After all it isn't a striking arete. Horses for courses and all that.
However I'd still say that it could do with a repeat and the grade confirmed (or adjusted), something that I'd say for all unrepeated hard-ish problems. This is why I keep mentioning it and pointing willing victims at it.
I hope you manage to pay the problem a visit (or several) Tom, and good luck.
-
I agree with you Nik. I think a blank looking problem can be as impressive as a good "line". "How the fuck did he get up that" sorta thing. I thought that when I first saw pebble wall at the cliff all those years ago. Then watching Streaky Desroy piss it and thought, wow that's inspiring. People may walk past it but once they realise it's been climbed, attitudes change
-
I thought that when I first saw pebble wall at the cliff all those years ago. Then watching Streaky Desroy piss it and thought, wow that's inspiring.
Funnily enough I saw (and thought) exactly the same thing when I first went to Almscliff back in '97 (man). From this I can deduce either a) we were there on the same day or b) Streaky used to spend a lot of time bouldering at Almscliff. I know where my money would be.
-
I think I know too. I didn't know what an "Almscliff" was in 1997 ::)
-
Every time I go to the Cliff I climb like a Turd on wheels.
Coincidence? I think not >:(
-
Check it, yo! Our pal Sam cleaned the holds on DWR recently. It would be nice to see some more of this:
http://samjleach.blogspot.com/2009/04/mgo2.html (http://samjleach.blogspot.com/2009/04/mgo2.html)
Before
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs031.snc1/3209_740358600249_197814125_44948754_3392245_n.jpg)
After
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs031.snc1/3209_740358784879_197814125_44948759_2959185_n.jpg)
Sorry if you can't see the pictures, they're from Facebook.
-
Very nice.
Give it 2 weeks and he can do it all over again :lol:
-
When was this? I must say I didn't notice on wednesday, so i assume either its already got back to its usual state, or it was after then? I seem to remember a story of someone trying to clean the Styan with a jetwash, only for it to return to its equlibrium state in a couple of weeks.
Tick marks do have their uses: blind and slappy holds, not uber jugs right in front of your face at the sitting start.
They're probably mine from trying to cheat with my feet on crap (but fun and hard) eliminate traverses although I thought I brushed them off :guilty:
-
DWR area has been looking bad in the last couple of weeks - its because its not rained for a few weeks (so not recieved its natural jet wash!)... I normally think the holds under the roof are not so unsightly, because you cant really see them - but all the holds on the front were very well chalked up earlier in the week.
I used a few tick marks on dreamland last week to figure/point out what my feet were doing - and then hosed then off (as best I could) with my water bottle. A group bumbling up birds nest crack etc.. did look at me like I was some sort of weirdo!!
-
A group bumbling up birds nest crack did look at me like I was some sort of weirdo!!
So they knew you then?
-
I think sam did this on wednesday or thursday, it looks much better from the photos but i've not been up there to see for myself. i've brushed loads of ticks off there in the past but they keep reappearing! it's not even blind!
-
I can't believe I had the crag to myself tonight. Such good nick: a cool breeze and about 10 degrees. DWRLH finally conquered.:bounce:
I've done a few things recently that folk might be interested in -
Blackhead 7b ish : this has probably been dismissed by many as morpho, yet I can now confirm the quality of the powerful bulging highball and assure you that I'm not too tall, and my span ain't great either.
Fractal 7a+ ish : again I thought this was going to be impossible for someone my size but a move to the cusp up and left gains the top, eliminating the need to make the big reach straight up as per Tom.
The nose lefthand sitter 7b+ ish : sit start on the left of the arete. A tough and technical sequence gains the classic pocket eliminator.
-
Good effort UTG! That's a fine stint at the cliff.
Amazing you did Blackhead as I think I was fully stretched. Did your fett come off. The break is pretty poor. Fantastic problem actually.
What's the nose LH sitter?
-
Amazing you did Blackhead as I think I was fully stretched. Did your feet come off. The break is pretty poor. Fantastic problem actually.
What's the nose LH sitter?
I'm made up with Blackhead 'cos I imagined it would've been impossible for me, yet no - feet stay on, got it fairly relaxed really. Did it twice as it was so good and I wanted the vid. Funny how there's so much at the Cliff that people just don't entertain, through lack of information / imagination. One of my arguments for folk to be forward about 'big-ups' yet we're all tarred by the......
:wall:
The nose lefthand sitter is great - I'll show it you next time you're out. It's an obvious line, great moves, nice grade, [invites retroclaimants and mockery as if I'm telling you all this to prove my masculinity......] so not worth shouting about really, must've been climbed before as it's at a popular crag, only 7b+, etc etc.
:wall:
Out tonight if you're up for it? :wave: