UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: remus on December 29, 2022, 11:25:40 am
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For those of you keeping track you may have noticed it's not quite 2023 yet, but what better time to get those creative juices flowing and reminisce about the best bits of your year.
For those new to this, it's about picking out your highlights of the year. The usual categories are listed below but freestyling is very much encouraged. As the denizens of UKB grow from doe-eyed climbing obsessed youths in to the bourgeoisie middle classes with other non-climbing things in their lives I've taken the liberty of adding a new category.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new routes/problems put up
Top spankings
Top non-climbing
Past year inspiration:
Best of 2006 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6675.0.html)
Best of 2007 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8400)
Best of 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10682)
Best of 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13196)
Best of 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16693)
Best of 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19254)
Best of 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21364)
Best of 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23468.0)
Best of 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25227.0.html)
Best of 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26618.0.html)
Best of 2016 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27717.0.html)
Best of 2017 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28587.0.html)
Best of 2018 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29780.0.html)
Best of 2019 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30390.0.html)
Best of 2020 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=31045.0)
Best of 2021 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=31676.0)
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Ok i will have a shot as this will be brief.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Strathnairn developments-
1. The G{as seen in the latest Vid i posted}
2. Missing Sid
3. Jeely Peice
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Don't go abroad anymore as i am poor.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
NA
Top three sport routes UK
NA
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
NA
Top three new routes/problems put up
Probably the same as Q1
Top spankings
Its ALL spankings
Top non-climbing
The Birth of my Daughter Milly{as in La Foret}.
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Worth pointing out to anyone who hasn’t taken part before that every category is optional and you can just add your own.
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Top three boulder problems (more experiences of climbing I guess); Beretta 7A+, Special Measures 6C(?), Blind Bat 7A+
I don't do owt with ropes, or climb abroad, because I'm poor as well
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Didn't do any new boulder problems this year.
Top 3 sport climbs: Call of Nature (8a, the Tor), Crusin' for a Brusin' (7b+, Yew Cougar), Celebration (7c, Two Tier).
Top 1 trad climb: Central Route, E1 5b, Wilton 1 (first trad this century :o )
Didn't climb abroad.
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Top three boulder problems, UK
- Brad's Block Traverse, Clifftop Boulders - worked all the moves out and then proceeded to drop what I thought would be the last droppable move 3 times. Proved myself wrong by dropping the next move next go. Following session I dropped it yet another move further on before success. Felt very bunchy at the end for the taller gent!
- Conie Lamprecht, Conies Dale - Must have been to Conies 6 or 7 times this year, mostly on my own midweek, working my way through pretty much all the ups and link-ups bar Beak Forest and Big Fat Conie. This one and Conie Ferrino were probably my favourites of the ones I'd not done before.
- No Bull, So Fierce, Coed Dinas Ddu - Getting something done on family holidays always feels like a result at the minute. This block seemed like a good option for finding stuff that would work with one pad and no spotters. Not a king line, but more about the
day 2 hours out.
Top three boulder/routes problems, abroad
Nope.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
- Great Buttress, Dovestone Tor - I've wanted to climb here for years and never got round to it. We ummed and ahhed about whether it was going to be too hot and then the forecast changed overnight and we nearly froze. First route of the day having hardly tied on all year meant it was way more memorable.
- Parasite & Pegasus Wall, Stanage - A few fillers in on a quick afternoon hit.
Top three sport routes UK
Nope.
Top three new routes/problems put up
Nope.
Top spankings
- Longridge - I used to spend a lot of time there, but hadn't been for about 5 or 6 years. Could still do all the individual sections of the traverse without thinking, but linking them together was a different story! Still had a great day though and reawakened my interest in the place - if only it wasn't so far away.
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Come on people!!! At least give us some more detail on your best things, even if you aren’t filling every catagory!!!
This thread is surely so much more than just a cold list, what makes it so good is the delve back into the memory box and sharing those lucky 1st go battles, those beautiful perfect redpoints, great days out at the crag, etc etc
Just as I write this, I see Stabbsy has filled his list out a bit more - nice one
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Come on people!!! At least give us some more detail on your best things, even if you aren’t filling every catagory!!!
This thread is surely so much more than just a cold list, what makes it so good is the delve back into the memory box and sharing those lucky 1st go battles, those beautiful perfect redpoints, great days out at the crag, etc etc
Just as I write this, I see Stabbsy has filled his list out a bit more - nice one
Apologies, i shall try harder ;D
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Okay to explain my choices
Beretta; this was the first hard thing I did following my knee injury. It took several sessions and micro-beta changes etc, and was very rewarding in terms of feeling like I'd actually somewhat returned back to form. I also did it on a lovely sunny day, in some nice dappled shade, with my friends. Delightful.
Special Measures; turns out that JF had done this before me but I got the full "experience" on it; figuring out the move, trying different beta, finally doing the hard bottom part and then the long top slab which was very easy but felt rather spicy to me on the day! A great feeling, and on New Year's Day too
Blind Bat; This was more a feeling of progress, going from being miles away from the big dyno to doing it a second go in a session months later. Definitely felt like I had got much more powerful, encapsulated in a single moment.
Top three spankings; I never did Bumlog Millionaire after fluffing the top bit like a total cunt and then getting injured etc. One day. Bullworker crippled me for a few months. I had a bit of a nightmare on a 6A somewhere that just shut me down and I never managed to get done. Fucking grit.
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Beretta; this was the first hard thing I did following my knee injury. It took several sessions and micro-beta changes etc, and was very rewarding in terms of feeling like I'd actually somewhat returned back to form. I also did it on a lovely sunny day, in some nice dappled shade, with my friends. Delightful.
Beautiful, the quintessential eastern lime experience.
Fucking grit.
Ha, that's my relationship with grit in a nutshell :lol:
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Top three boulder problems, UK
- Quarantine, Anston - The hardest thing I bouldered this year so should probably go on the list, though realistically more for the fun sessions with Duboust. We started working on it at the same time, had ~5 sessions on it and then both did it in the same session. Very satisfying process, even if it did feel like I was going to come away with a finger injury after every session.
- Wonderwall, Crafnant - Rubbish forecast in Sheffield and no plans so I made a dash over to North Wales and was awarded with a lovely session in a stunning location with some psyched young lads (shout out to Xav and Owen). What an amazing problem too, like it's been teleported directly from a board to a scenic hillside.
- Left-Hand Man, Secret Garden - A rare moment where the gritstone gods decided not to smite me from the rock/fuck my skin. Fun problem too, loads of funky tech and a slightly awkward top.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Only managed a week in font this year in May (woe is me), but font is always pretty incredible.
- Satan m'Habite (raccourci), Roche aux Oiseaux - mint prow, and a great day smashing round a new-to-me sector. Typical font is-this-fun while working it out, then a lot of satisfaction as the moves come together (word to Duma for the beta).
- Blue circuit, Bois Rond - flashed every problem before Duma unbelievably sandbagged me on the final problem :lol: In his words "Woah you've flashed every problem so far? Would be a shame to drop it here" shortly followed by me falling off.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
A few evenings out soloing but pretty much a fallow year.
Top three sport routes UK
- Nemesis, Cheedale Cornice - Top quality grinding project experience. Spent the start of summer fishing around for something to get stuck in to and settled on this. Spent the first couple of sessions getting the top dialled in and made a bit of a beta breakthrough (the best kind, found a good kneebar rest!) which sowed the seed that it'd be a goer. Lots of fun sessions at the cornice later and I managed to get it wrapped up in an after work session with a good friend, and all in good time before I went away on a trip a couple of weeks later. Perfect.
- Lockless Monster, The Nook - A hugely rushed after work session so my partner could get on her proj. Got the draws in then managed to fight my way up it second go by the light of a phone torch propped up against a tree (which is about as useful as you imagine it to be).
- Fishing Without a License, Embankment - This had been one of those projects that's gone very slowly, largely due to extremely poor tactics. I'd tend to clean it, work out 90% of the moves then fall off it near the top before waiting 3 months to have another session. Rinse and repeat. It was nice to actually finish it off this year! It's actually got some really nice climbing on it too, a shame it doesn't get done much, but such is the nature of esoterica.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
- Emovoros, HADA, Leonidio - Maybe the best 'in a day' experience I've ever had? The fatigue~beta curves lined up perfectly and I just about scraped up it. Thought I'd fucked it after the third RP attempt ended at the crux but my friend persuaded me to leave the draws in and go for a no expectations final burn. Felt completely gassed the whole way up and was literally falling in to the knee bars at the top of the route. Came down completely spent, with what felt like barely enough energy to get the draws out. Topped off by my friend having a very similar experience a few routes over. Bliss.
- Kopa Kabana, Elona, Leonidio - Had a lovely onsight go but missed important holds at the top. Still, it's so good it was a pleasure getting back on it again (which is a good job as I ended up trying the extension for a few sessions).
- Mare Nostrum, Penon de Ifach - 8 pitches of pristine climbing on Christmas day with my partner. Every pitch is 3 stars. Binned the first pitch (top tip: wait until it's not covered in grease and leave the bag on the ground) but felt slightly redeemed by onsighting the rest of it, including a good fight on the final top pitch.
Top three DWS
Only really managed a week this year, but what a week. Spotted some good tides in Pembroke and took the van down so I could work remotely and climb in the evenings. The weather was out of this world, just completely perfect every day. For a week I woke up psyched out of my mind and went to bed salty and exhausted.
- Excalibur, Skomar Arch - Managed to meet up with a friend I haven't seen in ages for an after work session, and for a brucey bonus he sprayed me down with all the beta. Didn't manage it that day but got it done the day after with only a couple of randoms at the crag. Nice bit of spice at the top!
- Jaws, Broadhaven - I was on a pretty tight schedule so decided to ab it first with the hope of getting it done in a session before working the next day and then driving home the afternoon afterwards. Got pretty close but ran out of gas at the end of the crux. I was pretty gutted as I thought that was the end of it, but I hatched a very optimistic plan to get up at 6am and have an early morning pre-work session. Got to the crag for 6.30am, route was in the bag by 7am and back at the van for 7.30am. https://www.instagram.com/p/ChJxDvujMBR/
- Found a lovely little spot in Costa Blanca (thanks for the beta UKB!) and squeezed in a few routes in late December. Bloody love squeaking a few more DWS in so late in the season.
Top spankings
- Trav proj at Moat Buttress (basically a short version of Against the Current) - Put quite a few sessions in to this and worked out some nice beta, only for some of the holds to fall off. Worked out some more beta but then it got hot and it was pretty much a write off for the rest of the summer. Definitely a spanking in terms of not getting close, but psyched for a rematch. Maybe that is more light flagellation than a full spanking?
- Moaty McMoatface - See above, but replace the part about holds falling off with the moves being super hard. Think I managed all but one of the moves in the end, but linking things together felt a way off. Maybe it'll come together at some point?
- The Sissy, Rubicon - Those little crimps just feel completely shit. Keen to keep bashing my head against it for a few more sessions next year in a masochistic sort of way.
Top non-climbing
- My partner was meant to go in for some fairly major surgery in late November but ended up testing positive for covid the day before. After some fairly tumultuous re-arranging of plans we've ended up with a really nice spell of time off which has been ace.
- Built and released a new app (with the help of lots of other people). Big project that's taken up most of my working time for the last year and it's been great/scary to see it go live https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mylatticetraining.app
- Don't feel like it's anything I can really claim, but it's been great working with a good bunch of people at Lattice.
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What fun.
Top three boulder problems
My logbook shows I've only done 33 boulder problems this year, which must be the fewest for quite a while.
Super Hans 7B, Aberglaslyn - one of the best eliminates I've done (doesn't feel all that eliminate because the move departing the parent problem isn't much harder than staying on it) - lovely crisp December day with dappled sunlight on dead leaves, great holds, great moves, felt bouncy.
Gynacology 7A, Kingussie - a surprisingly cool line in the midst of an otherwise unpromising heathery hillside. Not necessarily better than some other problems I did, but I found it, which always makes the thing more memorable.
Scar Tissue 6C, Strathnairn - if the above is obscure and isolated, this one even more so. A tramp around in the woods revealed absolutely nothing worth climbing except this single quality line, which is probably too easy for the sort of person who might seek out esoteric boulder problems ever to bother with. But I had a nice time.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
The Ancient Mariners, E5, Pabbay - to be honest possibly all the best routes I did this year were on Pabbay or Mingulay, and I could have picked a few others in place of this one, but in the interest of variety...
Seven Days, E4, Neist - a brilliant flared fingers crack thing with some lovely face features.
Stone Bastion, E4, Shelterstone - less climbed than other routes on the main bastion, but the top two pitches are ace (we just climbed the lower pitches of the Needle to get there, which seems like the best way to do it for quality). A day on the Shelterstone is always a good day.
Top three sport routes UK
Fiendish Beandish 7a+, Conwy - it's not a pretty crag, but this climbs brilliantly
Eyeballs Out 7b+, The Camel - proper endurance beast by UK standards, not usually my forte so was pleased to do it quickly
Supermassive Black Hole 7a, Twll Mawr - I often don't love slate (pity when it's within walking distance of my house), but this was lots of fun.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Kundalini/Luna Nascente link-up, 6b, Val di Mello - it doesn't disappoint
Alpentraum, 7a, Teufelstalwand - excellent granite cracks and corners, luxuriously bolted (the hard-line traddists would weep)
Aggressionkontrolle, 7b+, Leonidio - can't really pick a single route from a month in somewhere like Leonidio, but I'll go for this one because it was my first ever flash at the grade. It's probably only 7b but satisfying nonetheless as I've rarely climbed so well on a first attempt.
Top three new routes/problems put up
Violvoic, E6/7, Neist - the next route climbs better, but it was cool to make a first ascent of a route that's fairly hard for me. Featuring weirdly rigged skyhook protection, what more could one want from a British trad experience?
Shimripl, E4, Neist - oddly this line was the last of eight new lines on this wall that I turned my attention to, but the climbing on it is maybe the best, following thin cracks. Just a bit short lived.
Hyper Opal Mantis, E2, Neist - a different part of Neist. Short and punchy but really good.
Top spankings
Tricky to pick only three in this category...
Lubyanka, E3, Diffwys Ddu/Cyrn Las - Wiggy, fiddly, bold, not great rock, every pitch optional, the epitome of everything I've come to dislike about a certain genre of so-called classic British trad. Bailed from the final pitch up an easier finish, having had enough.
The Pinch, 7A+, Sheep Pen - was already feeling like something of a nemesis, being a grade and style that on paper I would normally be able to do quite quickly - then I pinged off and missed the pad and landed hard on the only pointy bit of rock in the vicinity. Luckily it was my pelvic bone not my coccyx, but I was still very sore for a week.
Unclimbed - dragged partner to remote crag on a day that we could have been doing something good to have a go at this (admittedly beautiful) unclimbed line which looks not too bad - only succeeded in losing skin and getting totally shut down. Did climb a consolation new route next door but it wasn't very good.
Top non-climbing
I'm going to leave this one for now as all that reminiscing about climbing has taken it out of me...
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Top three boulder problems, UK
- Stateside (with chip) ~7b Wimberry Really pleased to do this. Wanted to get on it for ages. Gets a little scary at the top and I’d bailed out a couple times before committing because I was on my tod. Shame that more people don’t get to wimberry. It’s brilliant.
- The Reiver 7a Pots and pans. Put up by my brother and I worked it for ages with a duff sequence. Then finally discovered you could just go dynamically for the top with a cool but slightly scary slap. Something I’d thought of on my very first session but written off. Lovely flowing move.
- Goldrush 7a+ Pots and Pans. See below.
Top three new routes/problems put up
Had a brilliant year for this after discovering that there were loads of good looking lines at pots and pans quarries in the chew valley. Being about 10mins from my house made it the main place my brother and I climbed this year. Lovely overlooked venue with great views. Still more to do.
- Goldrush 7a+ - had great fun working this. Had to fight really hard to see it off. Tough first few moves and droppable top. Really chuffed with this one
- The Ouzel or the Egg 6c+. Despite being a link up it combines the best climbing on the ouzel block. Tricky sit start on the arête then some crimpy moves to finish on the afterbirth dyno
- Mrs monster 6a. Lovely technical arête climbing. Proper gritstone climbing. 👍
Top spankings
No three separate occasions but one day of repeated fails. Managed to arrange a long awaited day climbing in on the eastern edges in the peak with my brother and a friend. I had the day of work. The kids were with Nana. My wife was in London. Weather was perfect. Wanted to try the terrace. What could go wrong. 😅 After a little warm up decided to try fallen slab to properly get going. Got sucked in. Couldn’t work out first move. Spent too long on it. Sore skin and tired already. If you can’t do a 7a why not try a 7c. 😂 Tried a few moves but was flailing pretty badly. Went to burbage west to try the nose as a consolation prize. After sorting the beta for the crux, managed to get through it only to climb like a total tool and fall off pretty much the very last move. Took a proper scary ride backwards onto the not great landing. Some great spotting saved me. But still managed to whack my elbow. Too tired to get through bottom again. Tactics all wrong for the day. Was too excited to be out. Overegged the pudding. Went home happy but sad. But happy. 😅
Top non-climbing
Got a new job to start in February. Excited to get going on it.
Watching my kids growing up is awesome.
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After the highs of 2021, this year has been a bit turd. What with a bust Achilles in February, and then trashing a pulley in October. However, looking in the corners of the year, there has still been some gold.
Top three social bouldering moments.
1) When Dr Fidler dragged a team of wads down to Porth Howel for me to act as hobbling tour guide.
2) Dragging Fiend down to flog the same spot, myself getting all competitive despite my temporary cripple status, and then Fiend psyched enough to make further visits without coercion.
3) Cwmystradlyn again with Dr Fidler, first time climbing proper after the Achilles debacle, blue skys,fa's for miles and BigG baiting.
3 Best comics
1) Book 2 Monstress
I'd been waiting ages, so made up with its visually sumptuous, kaiju like steampunk.
2) Papergirls.
A classic, but new to me this year, just grade a story telling, sort of Goonies meets back to the future, by way of Stranger things.
3) I hate fairy land.
Mother fluffing good!
When you get trapped in a saccharin fairytale for 20 years, all you need is a sharp axe, or maybe a hammer.
Top 3 Solo wellie wanders with a pole.
1) Moel ddu
Actually took pads but never climbed, so much vista, and always something more interesting. Until you summit. My First summit with pads I think.
2) Beyond Llugwy.
This was around the time Isle's of Wonder Sit was done. I was keen to check up on old projects and what people had been up to. No pads, but still gained a mini summit and saw lots of virgin rock.
3) The Lleyn, a beach
Fiend had tipped me off about a bouldering crack on a beach. This was my first foray solo, intending to boulder post injury, and was a beautiful crisp blue day. Lots of exploration trying to spot the thing, followed by a blissful hour taping up and tentatively flailing around. Perfect project as it was only just too hard for me. Unfortunately I strained a pulley shortly after, so one for next year.
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Top three boulders:
Burbage South Trellis. Took a couple of sessions to figure out how to do the top move on my own. The sort of thing that would take about 10 mins at ground level but is a lot more thought provoking a couple of metres up with no spotter. Finally figured it out (and discovered the fall wasn’t tooooo bad) and did it next go. Then it started spitting and I was faced with the choice of shuffling along that awful ledge as it got wet, or down climbing the crack over to the left…. Which I spent 20 minutes doing …. Punter.
Gardoms China in Your Hands. Had a few sessions on this in the last couple of years. Requires balance, flexibility and more finger strength than I usually have. Was really delighted to climb it earlier in the year on a day where the crimps felt good and the moves flowed. I really really like the moves on this problem Came back more recently and did the direct, as my first 7C.
Rivelin Purple Haze. Had a few very frustrating sessions on this earlier in the year. The classic ‘can do all the moves but can’t do them all in one go’ nightmare. Finally did it first go in September, after a summer spent looking after the kids and hardly climbing or training at all. I’m sure there’s a lesson in there somewhere, but I’m not entirely sure what….
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This has been another frustrating year, with injuries, the summer heat and family drama meaning I got out much less than I wanted this year. Seems to be happening more and more as I get older… Still, it’s always pleasant to get to this thread and read back on what did happen.
Top three boulder problems, UK
- Pools of Baathesda, Griffs
First hard-ish boulder I’d done for a while after an elbow and finger injury and a lovely “heel toe above head” sequence. - Mutton Busting (original sequence), Griffs
Man, I was gutted when Griffs got banned this year, I was getting well into it. It was also really great to do this problem the original way, which came down to a lovely pogo move off a grim LH bird-beak crimp. Felt like real progress to be able to use this hold at last. - Nazgul’s traverse, Rhiw Goch
Mostly because I flashed it, and felt dead powerful doing so.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
None, but I am going to Albarracin in the new year so at least there’ll be something for next year.
Top three sport routes UK
- Premonition, Kilnsey
Straight through the big roof with an ace kneebar move to gain Mandela.
That’s it, injuries and heat precluded anything else.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
All part of a great trip to the FJ. My finger was too bad to try hard so got to try some easier classics.
- Ringbandschöner
Softer than butter but so much fun. Swinging around on big pockets jn a roof feeling like a hero. What’s not to love? - Reif fur die Insel, Kuloch
I’d been putting off this classic Kurt Albert 7a for three visits. 25m of climbing, some hard cruxes and only three bolts! In the end it was the perfect experience, feeling cruisy on the runouts.
- Komodowaran, Gotthardskirche
The hardest 7c I’ve ever done in my
life. Desperate crux on sloping undercuts to put in the kneebar get like a grit problem with no friction and in 30 degree heat. Flipping brill!
Top spankings
- Overshadow.
Just too weak, but I can do the crux, so it’s possible. A good aim for 2023 - 30 is the new 40
I don’t find this hard, so why have I not done it yet? Maddening. - Les Grand Doigts
Was too inflexible in the spring, am too crap now. Fucking grit.
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Gynacology 7A, Kingussie - a surprisingly cool line in the midst of an otherwise unpromising heathery hillside. Not necessarily better than some other problems I did, but I found it, which always makes the thing more memorable.
When did you do this? We were in Kingussie summer before last, and walked the path up and over the top of Creag Bheag, must have only missed it by meters. Be good to have an OS ref if you have one.
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Best DWS
1. Had a great day at Fisherman’s Ledge with two car loads of mates up from Cornwall for the day. Did a bunch of the classics including Freeborn Man (E4). The highlight was The Vanishing (E5/7a+) - battled through on my second attempt at the end of the day.
2. Also had a brilliant day with my friend mad Max the doctor pushing the limits between DWS and just plain soloing. The best of the day was Tropospheric Scatter (E4) at Guernard’s Head, although also wobbled up Silence of a Lamb next to it (soft E6). Even above a calm high tide I was very glad not to fall off. Finished the day with a headtorch solo of Astrall Stroll (E1).
Best trad
Polaris (E5) at Swanage was really good, mainly cos I’ve wanted to do it for ages, it’s top of my grade and I only just scraped through the crux on lead. Left my house in Cornwall at 6am and was home again for a beer by 9pm after 300 miles of driving, an 80 metre ab and 3 pitches of great climbing.
Best rematches
1. The Magic Wand (E5), Carn Gowla. On the first visit I really struggled trying to get a micro wire in the starting groove where there used to be a peg. Eventually sat to rest on a micro which popped out, snapped the one below it, decked it onto my arse and retreated to go to a friend’s party instead. Returned a week later and replaced the peg (removed again afterwards) and onsighted the rest of the route. This involved brilliant space walking along the lip of a huge sea cave on just about adequate gear with sustained but never desperate climbing. Well worth seeking out for those of you who are into sea cliff adventures.
2. Abbed into Deja Vu (E4) in Bosi Great Zawn in the summer but had to retreat due to birds nesting on the belay ledge. Came back later in the year and thought the top pitch was exquisite. Heart in mouth climbing up the slab above micro wires, followed by good gear and a fantastic romp to the top.
Best spanking
Savage God (E4), Blackchurch. Got to within about 10 metres of the second belay before realising it had a nesting chick on it. Down climbed the whole of the rest of the pitch stripping my gear as I went, then abbed off a peg and dubious nut. Not sure whether I’ll go back.
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Best DWS
1. Had a great day at Fisherman’s Ledge with two car loads of mates up from Cornwall for the day. Did a bunch of the classics including Freeborn Man (E4). The highlight was The Vanishing (E5/7a+) - battled through on my second attempt at the end of the day.
That sounds like a mint day out, particularly finishing up with The Vanishing. It just looks so unlikely when you're perched in the back of the cave staring out through the roof.
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That sounds like a mint day out, particularly finishing up with The Vanishing. It just looks so unlikely when you're perched in the back of the cave staring out through the roof.
Yeah it’s a proper voyage innit! Swim in, sketchy first move, a trip into the bowls of the earth, and then a crazy three dimensional sequence of climbing to emerge back into daylight. Faced one way bridging out on the first attempt and took the plunge, faced the other way second go and just made it.
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Didn't do any new boulder problems this year.
Top 3 sport climbs: Call of Nature (8a, the Tor), Crusin' for a Brusin' (7b+, Yew Cougar), Celebration (7c, Two Tier).
Top 1 trad climb: Central Route, E1 5b, Wilton 1 (first trad this century :o )
Didn't climb abroad.
Okay, some details.
Call of Nature: My first 8a at the Tor and the first in my 50's. A brilliant process, 7 sessions with progress every session up to the actual ascent. Fantastic wall climbing, probs a 7A/+ boulder to a 7b+ headwall. Much pumpier than expected on the send.
Crusin': Amazing rock, no hard moves but super burly and pumpy power-stamina. Total classic at the grade.
Celebration: super balancy and technical climbing with a very fluffable slab to finish the hard climbing. Really unusual to climb a 7c slab in the Peak. Memorable.
Central Route: wasn't intending to do this then Fiend persuaded me. I'd done it in the early 90's but as I hadn't placed any wires in years I was a bit apprehensive. Totally laced it, got more pumped placing the gear than the actual climbing (and more pumped than on Call of Nature). Fully scared, thought every piece of gear was rubbish but Fiend thought all but one was bomber. I might consider doing more trad. Possibly.
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Gynacology 7A, Kingussie - a surprisingly cool line in the midst of an otherwise unpromising heathery hillside. Not necessarily better than some other problems I did, but I found it, which always makes the thing more memorable.
When did you do this? We were in Kingussie summer before last, and walked the path up and over the top of Creag Bheag, must have only missed it by meters. Be good to have an OS ref if you have one.
This was in February or March. Rest day bimbles between winter beastings...
I can't lay hands on the grid reference just now (mapping app sign-in issues) but I put an approach description on UKC, the crag is named Gynack Roof. It's about 100m off the summit path on the north facing slope, bit of a heather bash.
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Always the best thread of the year to read, keep them coming.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Roof of the Baby Buddha 7C+, Maes Newyddion. Really enjoyed spending a few sessions on this during a dry patch in January.
Ramp Up 7B+, Bickerton. One of my spankings from last year so nice to get this done. The go before I did it I ripped a jug out the roof and landed on my back missing my pads. The adrenaline was probably what got me up it. Painful for a few weeks afterwards.
Magician's Nephew 6B, Queens Crag. One of the highlights from a spring trip to Northumberland. Great moves, very aesthetic, and high enough to be exicting.
Top three boulder problems, abroad (all Albarracin)
Palpant 7B+. Got all the moves on the first session. Went back for an early morning raid and there was a bike-packer camping underneath. Went for a walk until they had woken up and moved on, then dispatched relatively quickly. I'm not great at big slappy compression stuff, so was pleased with this one.
Rammstein 7B. Someone put a board in a forest, and it's great.
La Playa 7A. OK it's super sandy, but I loved the moves on this one.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Slim pickings as I don't do much, but managed enough this year to actually make a top 3.
Mental Transition E4 6b, Pinfold. Very much out my comfort zone on this, relying on poor gear and in (what felt like) definite ground fall territory. Decided it wasn't for me after quite a lot of top rope practice but I couldn't get it out of my head so ended up going for it, albeit with one aborted attempt. Fun, I think.
Black Wall Direct E2 5c, LLanymynech. Enjoyable, apart from the scrittly mantel top out.
The Adulteress E2 5c, Trial Wall. First time I've ever had to try vaguely hard above gear, which was interesting.
Top three sport routes UK
Mussel Beach 8a, LPT. My longest project to date, both in terms of time and number of sessions. I won't forget the fight on the head wall in a hurry. Laying one on for the finshing jug I was sure I was off.
Fairtrade 7c, Devil's Gorge. Really enjoyed a few sessions in the summer doing a few of the lesser travelled lines here. This was top quality.
Pioness of the Hypnotic Groove 7b, Foxhole. Such a cool line, made a little bit more interesting as I was drowning in post-covid pump. Had to have a lengthy lie down afterwards.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Avant Match 7c, Terradets. Glorious Euro stamina stuff. Thought I would always be too pumped to get through the crux, then proceeded to sail through it, so much so that I skipped a knee bar just afterwards as I didn't think I needed it. Very nearly paid the price!
Occident 7c, Terradets. A classic for a reason.
Lucky Luca 7a+, Oddysey. Not that much to look at, but had a great experience on this where my climbing just clicked and I swung from knee bar to knee bar without any hint of pump. Doesn't happen that often!
Top spankings
Lou Ferrino 7C+, Parisellas. I keep playing on this on and off and keep thinking I'm vaguely close. Then I remember I still can't do either of the first two moves.
Buddha Belly 7A+, Maes Newyddion. Having just done Roof Of, I thought I'd finish the day off by trying this. Could barely do a single move. Go figure.
Kaly Diva 7c, Secret Garden. A lesson in how not to redpoint. Tried four times and tried four different methods for the crux.
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Magician's Nephew 6B, Queens Crag. One of the highlights from a spring trip to Northumberland. Great moves, very aesthetic, and high enough to be exicting.
Bloody good that! Also reminded me that I totally missed an April Northumberland trip off my list, can't believe I didn't add Northern Soul :slap: Gotta be one of the best of the grade in the UK.
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- Trav proj at Moat Buttress (basically a short version of Against the Current) - Put quite a few sessions in to this and worked out some nice beta, only for some of the holds to fall off. Worked out some more beta but then it got hot and it was pretty much a write off for the rest of the summer. Definitely a spanking in terms of not getting close, but psyched for a rematch. Maybe that is more light flagellation than a full spanking?
Which holds have fallen off Against The Current Remus?
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Which holds have fallen off Against The Current Remus?
A bit hard to describe, but I was trying to link it from ~Over the Moorhens. From memory, I was getting a bird beak hold with my left then a few moves after that using a right hand undercut to roll over in to something (a thin glued edge?) The right hand undercut was gone the last few times I tried it, presumably disintegrated. I vaguely remember it being a bit wobbly so not totally surprising it's no more. I thought something else had come off but my memory is failing me.
I did all the moves on it last time I was there so it's definitely still possible, but feels a bit harder for me without the rh undercut hold. Definitely feels a bit harder for me (but then it's at my limit so always feels pretty hard anyway).
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Top 3 boulders
Theia (8A 7C), Harter Gold - This was one of those scenarios where the quality of the climbing, the rock, the location and the build-up all combined to create an experience greater than the sum of its parts. I first tried it on a big day out, but didn't get very far; I could barely pull on the holds and couldn't get the kneebar to work. I wrote it off, but the following week, a sudden feeling that I could climb it struck me, if only I could get there before the sun came up (south facing), get there in 2 days time (likely to be the last cool day of the season), and get a better kneepad. Given how poorly I did the weekend before, it seemed like a long shot, but I paid for next day delivery on a Send pad, drove 3 hours to Harter Fell on a Friday night, slept in the car, woke at 4am and hiked 1 hour up to the boulder with 3 pads. Did it in about an hour as the sun was rising.
Jelly of the Beast (8A), Odin's Cave -
It's a limestone cave, it doesn't really go anywhere and a constant stream of tourists have you repeating 'crash mats' and 'climbing' every 5 minutes. However, thanks to an excellent and sustained sequence of big moves between decent holds, it was easy to stay psyched long enough to get it done. I had to climb fast, loose and 'high-risk' to avoid powering out and achieved some proper flow states. Hardest thing I've climbed on rock and I think my projecting tactics were reasonably good for a change.
Source of Secrets (7C+), Lobwell - Another limestone roof with big moves between decent holds! In contrast, this one is located in a lovely wood and it tops out at a decent height. I struggled with individual moves on the first session, but next session I somehow managed to pull it out of bag in just a few tries from the bottom. I've visited a couple of times since to try its bigger brother Kenzoku (see aims for 2023) and can never help myself from pulling on Secrets again, just to do those moves!
Top route
Kleptomania (8a), Hollywood Bowl - I can't vouch for its quality since its the only route I've climbed in years. However, it's steep, it's burly, it's rainproof, and if you're a boulderer looking for a relatively easy 8a tick, then this is your route! I had fun on it and was surprised to clip the chains on a last go best go effort.
Top spankings
Enter The Dragon, Tremeirchion - this is the first time I've made a conscious decision to give up on a project after sinking more than a few sessions into it. The crimps near the start are so small, and as a heavy climber, I got fed up of driving 2 hours each way to split in just a few tries. Looking back, I'm yet to try it in cool conditions, so it might not be fully off the cards. Afterall, it's brutally shouldery and I haven't done all those one armers for nothing ;D
Side splits - trained multiple times per week, active and passive, loaded and unloaded. Almost no progress. At least finger strength doesn't make it on this list for a change.
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Gynacology 7A, Kingussie - a surprisingly cool line in the midst of an otherwise unpromising heathery hillside. Not necessarily better than some other problems I did, but I found it, which always makes the thing more memorable.
When did you do this? We were in Kingussie summer before last, and walked the path up and over the top of Creag Bheag, must have only missed it by meters. Be good to have an OS ref if you have one.
This was in February or March. Rest day bimbles between winter beastings...
I can't lay hands on the grid reference just now (mapping app sign-in issues) but I put an approach description on UKC, the crag is named Gynack Roof. It's about 100m off the summit path on the north facing slope, bit of a heather bash.
Yeah spotted it on there. Will have a looksee next time, nice run up and over the hill. prefer heather bashing without pads.
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Top 3 Mountains:
Flick of the Wrist
This one has been an epic for me and has taken far far too long to finish off.
Prisoners of the Sun
What a brilliant little problem, linking the first 3 moves seemed impossible upon arival but somehow the moves jsut clicked together and I found myself fighting to the top.
Worzel Gunnage
Another one I've tried far too much and very satisfying when I eventually stuck the second move.
Top 3 lime:
Broken Heart
Basically got me back into reasonable shape after a period of trying to rehab some weird nerve issues for about 5 months
14 Years Later Low
Somehow everything just clicked and I went from no where near the problem to standing ontop of it. Brilliant.
Working 9-5
Just because I didn't do much which was satisfying on lime this year to be honest.
Top 3 spanking:
Impropa Opera sitter. Lost count of how many times I've dropped the top move.
Never ending story part 2. Spent too many days falling off this one and realised projecting abroad isn't the one for me!
Levi Roofs. Fell off the last hard move almost every go from the ground for 3 sessions on the trot.
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Some really great entries so far - keep 'em coming! Even reading the board regularly it can be quite difficult to get a real sense of the climbing people are getting up to, so it's great to read these stories of adventures, large and small, from Pabbay to the Tor.
Seeing this is the very first year since 1978 I haven't once donned a pair of rock shoes I have nothing to add I'm afraid, but I'm still looking forward to reading plenty more posts.
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Don't you still need to get to Torridon Andy? Plenty there for the punter, and stunning place even if you don't climb.
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I still have one session planned tomorrow, but that'll likely not yield anything worthy of this thread, so here are my entries now!
Top three boulder problems, UK
I found it very hard to pick a top three this year, having got out to loads of places and done some great stuff. Funnily enough, these three were all done in April!
- The Ramp Up, Bickerton - A grand total of 5 sessions, a couple last year and the rest this year. Definitely my longest project that's an hour or more from my house. Limit grade aside, it's a very aesthetic feature and the climbing is fantastic imo.
- Piss, Higgar Tor - A great problem, which combined with some more hard stuff at Burbage North made out to be one of the best days I had one rock, in the dying days of 21/22 grit season. I had also recently came back from Font and the style certainly scratched the itch!
- Inkerman, Craig Peniel - I visited here a few times this year for some hard stuff, but climbing this on my birthday with a few mates made for a truly memorable experience.
Honourable mentions to: The Severed Ear, Boyager, Douglass (despite being in a chosshole), Voie Normale SDS. Also Grinah Stones for the grand day out!
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Had my first overseas trip this year, certainly won't be my last!
- Big Jim, Petit Bois - Anyone who's tried this can attest to the quality. Last move crux, quite high up above a perfect landing.
- Le Pouf, Buthiers - Seems underrated, classic Font slapping above soft sand.
- L'Oblique, Roche aux Sabots - Memorable, skin-of-my-teeth flash as the last boulder of the trip before the rain started. Would've been smoother had I not committed to mantel on the worst bit of the lip!
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Didn't actually do any gear-placing this year at all, just one highball and one spur-of-the-moment second.
- Summit Arête, Bosley - Fun boulder start into juggy romping to the top. Had to be solo as a friend bailed, but kept my head cool and startled a family when I emerged at the top!
- Vibram Wall, Simonside - After walking three pads up that fucking hill and eating some chocolate, I opted for a quick second up this before heading off to find some boulders. Decent route!
Top three sport/DWS routes UK
Only got one draw-clipper under my belt this year, but my first DWS weekend as well which was wicked fun, and am looking forward to next season.
- Slobberlob, Llanymynech - The boulderer's cheapest ticket to 7b sport stardom. Spent about 20 seconds just fumbling the rope into the anchor, if that's any indication of how little I sport climb!
- Temporary Lifestyle, Cave Hole - Very first DWS, was absolutely bricking it. Repeated it a few more times on the same weekend!
- Horny Lil Devil, Lulworth - See top spankings...
Top three spankings
- Horny Lil Devil, Lulworth - On my third go I made it to the kneebar rest. At this point, the next bit is a little tricky but not hard, right? Well, being the elite-tier dipshit boulderer that I am, I decided that 15 seconds of rest was enough, I was getting bored, and tried to carry on. Obviously I was very soon in the drink! I also got a horrid calf cramp swimming back at the end of the session...
- La Balance, Cuvier - Amazingly fun bouldering. Definitely ruined my elbows for the rest of the trip, mind. Definitely trying it again next year!
- Dulcinea, Simonside - After a tantalisingly close flash go, I regressed, then progressed, then scrittled off the top, then was too tired to get there again. A bit miffed as I don't know when I'll next be up that way, and it's a big walk.
A couple more honourable mentions to Rigpa and Severus Snape, both still holding me off despite feeling within grasp.
Top non-climbing
- Getting engaged to my beautiful fiancée - Not really much else to say about this, we're both very pleased with ourselves!
- Got an electric guitar - I'm sure the neighbours are pleased with this one...
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Ok i shall try again since my first effort was judged to be below par and i am lying on the couch feeling sorry for myself with the seasonal lurgi.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Strathnairn developments-
New Area is a compact wee venue with about 50ish problems and maybe 4 or 5 kinglines, will make for another excellent addition to the guide im hoping to get done in 2023.
1. The G{as seen in the latest Vid i posted} This 7m overlapping slab on the south face of "The Bean" might be the best of its kind in the Strath, i have No idea on grade as im shite at climbing anything other than mantles. I have bet Robbie Phillips 5 Scottish pounds that he cannot ground up on-site it{its That kind of climb ;D}.
2. Missing Sid, an easier less invigorating version of Hissing Sid {my line over in Barry Valley}, A nice hanging arete on the North East face of the Bean. All heels.
3. Jeely Peice, a pleasant surprise of a problem, just up the hill from the Bean is the Loaf bloc, spent a day scrubbing this then ticked it off on a return visit, techy moves through triangle finger pockets to a necky rock over onto the Top Out slab.
Top moments in the Strath
Will Bosi sending Below Zero 8b+ up in Rooftown. I originally cleaned this line{The infamous West Wall project on the Wobble Bloc} and quickly realised it was well beyond me. Amazing to see it get done.
Rhys Langlands sending his Project at Brin, Big Chief 8b, Amazing effort by a strong local lad. I have known Rhys for many years{i climb with Rhys's dad} he is a dedicated climber and a good guy.
Robbie gathered a strong team to hit Strathnairn in the summer, Aiden,Dan,Alex and others rampaged across the glen ticking off some really hard problems{in crap conditions} and generally made bouldering up here in the Highlands look easy, i was fortunate enough to cross paths with these guys as i made my way up to another one of my very forgettable projects, i suspect they thought i was just some rambling idiot out on day release ha ha :lol:
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Don't go abroad anymore as i am poor but did manage to get a cottage near Polin Beach in the far North West for a week, for me this is the best climbing in the country. Big sky's and turbulent seas with endless unclimbed rock, food for the soul.
Top three new routes/problems put up
Probably the same as Q1
Top spankings
Its ALL spankings
Top non-climbing
The Birth of my Daughter Milly{as in La Foret}.
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I don’t normally write much about my own climbing as it feels a bit weird, but I’ve always enjoyed this thread so much that it seems a bit churlish not to contribute. It’s been a weird year due to health conditions and I’ve mostly climbed with my partner, so apologies for how Peak-centric and potentially soppy and boring the majority of this is.
Top three boulder problems, UK
Paul O’Grady, Ogwen
The climbing highlight of what was a very special trip last year, if only because I didn’t go on many. I tried PoG at the end of a trip the summer before in the heat and got well and truly spanked – struggling to do moves, desperately slapping about, having too many goes, cursing the sun being on the slopers, walking back down totally beaten, etc. At some point over the winter I stumbled upon a video of someone doing it slapping out right much earlier than we were trying and kicked myself and decided that I was going back ASAP. Fast-forward to March and my partner and I are in North Wales for a week, and I’d decided that the rematch was the big goal.
We head up there with a pad each so I’m a little worried about the top, but with both pads stacked under it seemed alright; it’s about 12 degrees and bright but not too sunny, so the holds feel good and the moves quickly fall into place, including a nice little knee-scum after the move out right that makes the crux feel so much easier. On my first go from the ground I get my left hand up onto the arete to do the crux of the stand, where you lob out to the very tip of the prow, look down, bottle it, drop off, and realise the landing is fine. We chill out for 20 minutes or so in the sun, make friends with some horses that come by, and the next go is almost easy, although the last couple of moves feel exciting. Rolling over the top feels great in terms of being a marker of progress, and getting to do it with my partner at the crag was really quite cool. We’d allocated the whole day to the problem on the assumption that it'd be a bit of a scrap but it’s barely 11 am, so we head back down to the car, go to the seaside, get ice cream, and swim in the sea.
Thread Nicole, Badger Cove
To an extent this feels like the kiddy play area at IKEA – the adults drop the kids off there before getting stuck into the real stuff. On the other hand, it’s a sweeping line of comfortable holds with a couple of cruxy bits, the second of which leads into a finish that is relatively high, committing, and a good bit harder if you’re pumped. If it was dry regularly and easier to get to I think that word would get around very quickly and it’d soon be popular. Definitely the best thing I’ve done at the grade on Peak Lime.
My first time visiting the crag we made the mistake of dropping down to the bottom of the valley and bashing up through the nettles, meaning that I spent most of my first session there with the feeling that the skin on my arms and ankles was on fire (and the person I went with is never going back); I also didn’t quite have the energy to work out all of the moves and link them but really doubled down on attempts. On my best go I got to the shake-out of the 6B before barely committing to the top moves and dropping off, and even after that had more attempts, falling earlier and earlier until I left the crag totally knackered and convinced that it was utterly nails. Going back a few days later with another friend, well-rested, we head down the fixed rope and I warm up on the moves and do it first go – some grunting at the top but basically cruisy. I spend the rest of the day lazing around and spotting people on things that I see no reason to pull onto.
Twisting in the Wind, Windy Knoll
Yes it’s choss even by Peak Lime standards, but Windy Knoll was where I spent a large part of the second half of the summer. It was interesting to see it go from an obscure, dusty cave to dangerously close to a victim of its own popularity, complete with landing improvements, ticks on almost every single hold, questionable link-ups and eliminates being put up on a regular basis, and controversy around first ascents. I had some lovely days there with friends, met a few really nice people and, choss factor aside, thoroughly enjoyed the style of climbing – possibly just because it suits me, but then that's bouldering.
I really do think that Twisting in the Wind is up there in the context of Peak Lime in terms of quality, and has a bit of everything; a discernible line up obvious features; good variety of holds, all of which are comfortable; a slightly exciting but ultimately fine landing; an actual topout. The meadow that you roll into is a beautiful place to sit in the sun, and it’s just far enough away from the hordes that you don’t have to deal with that many people asking you if you’re camping, even though the walk-in is measured in seconds rather than minutes. Nice one Jon.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
A terrible year for me in terms of trad psych for a multitude of reasons, but:
North Wales
Not a single route, but the North Wales trip I went on in the spring was my partner’s first time climbing in North Wales and she really came into her own there in terms of leading. She’s a massive Gwen Moffat fan so doing Tennis Shoe, with her leading all of the tricky pitches, was great. On the last day of the trip we went to Clogwyn y Bustach with some friends and mostly bouldered, but she and I took a break to nip up the hillside and solo Lockwood’s Chimney – her idea, which I think is particularly impressive given she’d been climbing outdoors less than a year, and she loved it. We also did Lavaredo at Carreg Alltrem on the first day, which I’ve wanted to do for years and was totally out there for VS. Due to health issues she’s barely climbed since and likely won’t in the near future, so while it’s somewhat bitter-sweet as a memory I’m grateful we at least got to do that together.
Womanless Wall, Standing Stones
As a trad climber turned boulderer I feel a good amount of shame for the fact that I don’t really trad climb any more, and when I do it’s usually shameless headpointing or repeating things that I know intimately at Stanage Popular on a sunny evening, but moorland grit trad is something that I’ve always enjoyed and felt is, in the context of being a middling, unadventurous, Sheffield-based climber, about as aspirational and adventurous as you can be without leaving the Peak. So it was nice to get to Standing Stones and shit myself on a damp, dirty VS having not tied into a rope for months. Most of the way up I was freezing and contemplating backing off, until I’d gotten through a tricky bit and found myself wobbling my way up the wet, loose, muddy top half feeling like there was no possibility of any gear holding my weight. I topped out and immediately began that classic process of repressing those memories and pretending that I’d had a great time, and repeated that process a couple of times over the course of the day before totally failing to do much trad for the rest of the year.
Twin Chimneys Layback, Burbage North
The best route my partner and I did on a nice evening out soloing on her birthday. This is one of those that, if you’re really into low-grade grit, is a real hidden gem; no polish, proper climbing moves despite the low grade, a bit of commitment needed that is rewarded with good holds, good line, and at the bit of Burbage North that doesn’t seem in any way appealing if you look in the guide. I think if you look at it from any other perspective it’s a ~6-metre high scrappy corner at a random part of a crag that’s pretty shit for routes in spite of its popularity, but it’s inarguably a nice place to watch the sun set.
Sport
Hilariously I did exactly one sport route this year, which was Slings Shot (5a) at Portland. I dogged it. Even for me, as someone who isn’t psyched by sport and has no goals in it, this was impressive.
Top spankings
Mossatrocity, Padley Gorge
As a Sheffield climber it’s such an obvious project, and I like heels and burly climbing. However: I’ve tried the stand on four separate occasions and watched people who are taller than me do it effortlessly, people who are shorter than me do it effortlessly, and someone with fewer limbs than me nail it (although he’s an animal so not really comparable). I’ve tried it every which way I can think of and just cannot bloody do it. I find the lower moves pretty steady, but have never managed to get a hand on top. The first couple of sessions I had on it were irritating, in the sense that I thought I could consistently climb 7A in a session and so was brought nicely down to earth; after the third I’d decided that it was a shit problem anyway, and the fourth brought with it that serene acceptance that comes with the ego getting completely shattered. I’m sure I’ll go back next year and get spanked on it again.
Colour of the Sky, Lound Hill
Inspired by creepily watching Liam’s videos I met a mate here during one of the heatwaves and we pieced together the bottom and played on the top bit on a rope while generally struggling/moaning and getting bitten by mosquitoes. While at the crag I got a text from my partner to say that she’d tested positive for COVID, which explained the cold I’d just recovered from but killed the psych for that day. I went back on another slightly cooler day and got quite scared by the top bit, having one go where I completely bottled the last real move and took a bit of a wiggy fall where I was saved by my spotter (props to Liam for doing this on his own with so few pads!). I had another visit at the end of the summer on what seemed like it should be a perfect day, meeting a friend there who’d brought loads of pads, well rested and just before I was due to take a week off climbing to go on a beach holiday – it all seemed so perfect. We found every square inch of rock totally condensed and ended up greasing around on slightly less condensed but still damp rock at an even shitter venue nearby before I gave it up and went home to do a fingerboard session. Still something of a priority given how good it is but god the conditions are fickle.
Paint it Black, Blackwell
I think that this was the first 7C I seriously tried, and I quickly got sucked in by how doable many of the moves are. This was the third summer in which I had a session on this, although the first in which I’d managed to properly fingerboard in the months before getting stuck in. As such I really thought that I was in with a shot, having climbed a few 7Cs over the winter and spring. My first session I even did all of the moves, including that miserable crux throw out right, but from there it went downhill. I had a session where I completely failed to do the crux move and instead did the moves on Working 9–5, and a session where, having done Working 9–5 and full of optimism, I started to warm into the moves and, about 10 minutes into the session, got a massive split in my right index and ended up heading over to X, where I mummified the finger and had a great time doing Batman. I have a real desire to do this as it typifies Peak Lime and is such a rite of passage, and can really imagine myself just floating up the moves sitting here at the tail end of December, comfortable in the knowledge that it’s absolutely gopping. I do dimly remember the reality of it, though – pulling on those miserable shap edges and feeling like the weakest, heaviest lump ever to live, then falling off and rolling around on the pads, my fingers in agony, surrounded by gravel and garbage and sucking exhaust fumes into my lungs.
The honourable mention on the spanking front is partner’s health condition/general life stuff, which has been tough, particularly in the second half of the year. Hoping to sort things out a little next year, though, and – as is always the case – it’s been good to have a few good friends around, who have been very supportive.
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I don’t normally write much about my own climbing as it feels a bit weird, but I’ve always enjoyed this thread so much that it seems a bit churlish not to contribute. It’s been a weird year due to health conditions and I’ve mostly climbed with my partner, so apologies for how Peak-centric and potentially soppy and boring the majority of this is.
A good read this, thanks! Criminally, I still haven't been up to try Paul O'Grady. High on the list for next year.
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I always enjoy reading this thread and thinking back over the year. I've been very lucky this year to have been able to go on several trips abroad due to the generous leave allowance of a first year PhD student...Suspect I won't do nearly as much of that for the next couple of years or so while I get my head down on my research, support my partner with her anaesthetics exams and walk the dog, so was very glad to do it this year.
Top 3 Trad
White Slabs Bunt, Wilton 1
I thought this was absolutely brilliant, one of the best E3s on grit surely? One of several really good afternoon/evening sessions in the quarries. Looking forward to more of the same next year.
Leucoycte Right Hand
Similar to above, but at HVS this is an absolute cracker
Slender Loris, Malham Right Wing
An early season trip to Malham with Matt and our first taste of the trad there. Matt fell off the final move paving the way for me to enjoy an extremely fortunate flash/clip up, with only the very top bit onsight and lots of luck involved hitting the good bit of the break. Loved it!
Top 3 Boulders
Lager Lager Lager, Earl Crag
Almost did this in a session but having got to the final slopers, I panicked, lost sight of the crucial foothold for the final move and dropped it. Came back the next week in baltic but totally mint conditions to seal the deal. Fantastic problem; Earl delivers again.
Treebeard, Sutton
A good session with Matt where we scouted it out and felt like we should have done it but had run out of skin by the time we worked out how to do the cut loose move without barndooring into the ravine! I came back the next week by myself on a very marginal forecast but found it dry. Almost did it first go of the day before forcing myself to rest. Once on the arete it was still harder than I had hoped but I clung on and made it. Probably the best problem I have done in Yorkshire, possibly ever. Pleased I managed it ground up without abbing down it and doing it solo added a good level of spice to the upper section!
Grand Opera, Bowderstone
Had quite a few sessions up here early in the year with a psyched crew and ticked off lots of the mid 7s. Did Impropa quite fast and moved on to this only to drop the last move upwards of 10 times over 2 sessions. Persistent runoff necessitated abseiling down with a rag to clean the top hold directly before each go; finally I got it together and matched the top. Technically my first 7C+ although I know some people find it piss.
Top 3 Sport UK
I've done a lot of sport climbing this year so am divvying these up by location.
Grooved Arete, Kilnsey
Have wanted to do this for ages and really enjoyed trying it. Gradually progressed to the infamous 'jug' before the top crux and fell off there for a few sessions. Eventually after work I arrived on the crux crimps and felt absolutely hydraulic on them; so much so I was able to full crimp where previously I'd been dragging. Unfortunately with my left hand fully crimped I had lost a crucial bit of reach, which meant I fell off the very last hard move to a gaston! It went without issues next go and then warmed down by doing Dead Calm, which I'd been having goes on at the end of each session to build some fitness. Great day.
Twisted, Malham
Briefly tried this at the end of last season and then it got wet. At the start of the year I redid New Dawn quickly and thought I might as well try and finish it off. Fell off a few times at the bulge but some last go best go power screams got me onto the headwall and somehow I didn't pump off. I've since fully rebolted it so hopefully this great route will get some more attention now.
The Shining, Diamond
Some really good sessions down at the Diamond this year having not been for years. Conditions on one of my visits were absolutely mythical, it was like a crisp day on gritstone. Purely because of this I managed to nearly fall off all the way up The Shining but somehow stayed on with a massive fight. Had a fun onsight go on Shine On which I'm really keen for next year.
Top 3 Ceuse
Back to Ceuse for the first time since 2018 and had a great time.
Femme Noire
This was the main route I wanted to do and I was stressing a bit about it being busy/ lack of shade time as we were in a 3 and climbing in August. I found the mid height crux hard but made it through one evening as the light started to fade. Trying to balance the need to shake out and recover against the rapidly encroaching darkness I got to the final poor rest before the top slab feeling really nervous, pumped and a bit panicky. Set off and immediately went wrong but kept trying really hard and somehow stayed on until my hand miraculously landed on the finishing sidepull. Unfortunately I'd forgotten to move my foot up in the blackness which meant I was Vitruvianned out on the top slab, completely unable to move with the chain winking at me. I knew it was over and whimpered 'oh no...', before trying to move and taking the mother of all whippers halfway down the crag. I was absolutely gutted but Jack belaying found it all very amusing! The next day I pulled onto the top slab, immediately saw the massive foothold I'd missed in the dark and went to the top :wall:. Great route though!
Grand Mur Malade
A route with very few ticks on ukc but another absolute stunner. Redpointed after persuading some grumpy Italians to let me have a go, which they agreed to but 'only if you are fast.' ::)
Petit Jeu Sans Consequence
After doing Femme Noire we headed along to Berlin and had a great onsight fight on this. Another brilliant vert/slab route at Ceuse.
Top 3 Red River Gorge
Having been in Chicago for a conference with flights paid for by my funding body it seemed a great chance to go to RRG.
Abyss, 12d, Miller Fork
Probably the best route I did in the whole trip. Great holds, cool movement, fun climbing and a bit soft. Whats not to like!
Tuna Town, 12d, Motherlode
Last day of the trip and thought I'd blown my chance by overdoing it on the warmup. Fortunately the crimpy bit at the top wasn't too bad. Great to do a massive pitch at the lode.
Return of Chris Snyder, 11d, Roadside
One of many perfect endurance pitches in RRG, joy from start to finish.
Life
Have really enjoyed going on some holidays with my partner this year after the lockdown years, alongside doing house DIY together and getting a dog a few weeks ago. Haven;t been kicked off my PhD yet either, so so far so good.
Spankings
Capitain Flam, Ceuse
There had to be a Ceuse one...at the end of a big day I decided this would be a fun warm down. Wrong; spiky bushes, trees, crumbling holds and choss eventually got me to a rest at halfway. Pulling off holds and getting covered in birdshit I lost my temper, grabbed a fixed draw and started stripping it. Will then proceeded to lower me at full speed into a big bramble patch. Lesson learned; quit while you're ahead!
The Thumb, Kilnsey
I did eventually get up this but had to work ridiculously hard for it, falling off the sequence turning the lip multiple times after doing exactly the same when I did Urgent last year. That sequence is like my kryptonite, I just find it desperate. Glad I don't have to do it again unless I get motivated to try the Full Tilt/Urgent linkup...
Cider Soak, Ansteys
After having a bit of a row with my partner I had an adrenaline fuelled redpoint and and got to the top shakeout feeling fine. Did the first 3 moves of the crux before experiencing a dramatic power loss on the final move, slapping the jug but not holding it. Didn't get back up there for the rest of the trip. One for next year!
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I don’t normally write much about my own climbing as it feels a bit weird, but I’ve always enjoyed this thread so much that it seems a bit churlish not to contribute. It’s been a weird year due to health conditions and I’ve mostly climbed with my partner, so apologies for how Peak-centric and potentially soppy and boring the majority of this is.
A good read this, thanks! Criminally, I still haven't been up to try Paul O'Grady. High on the list for next year.
Much appreciated. With the caveat that I haven't done all that much bouldering, and almost none abroad, I rate Paul O'Grady as the best problem I've done. It really is wonderful, and worth the walk.
Interesting to see multiple mentions of The Ramp Up at Bickerton - I saw Ross's social-media post a while back and filed it away as a problem that looked really good, and interestingly enough will be spending NYE not far away, with a couple of days free after. The UKC page says that it dries quickly and is a year-round option but, given it's sandstone and the amount of rain we've had, is heading there on Sunday or Monday a terrible idea? All info much appreciated and apologies for going off-topic.
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Beretta; this was the first hard thing I did following my knee injury. It took several sessions and micro-beta changes etc, and was very rewarding in terms of feeling like I'd actually somewhat returned back to form. I also did it on a lovely sunny day, in some nice dappled shade, with my friends. Delightful.
Beautiful, the quintessential eastern lime experience.
Fucking grit.
Ha, that's my relationship with grit in a nutshell :lol:
Tbh I love Anston. When I started bouldering ourdoors in early 2021 it was basically the only place I went, couldn't meet anyone inside, my mate lives a few mins away, so just went there most weeks. Just has really fond memories, my first of many grades, and I love the style of climbing there. You can have lovely long sunny evenings there pulling on nice sharp crimps above decent landings, rather than freezing your bollocks off at night in winter trying to figure out some featureless wall of nothing over a rocky pit in the Peak.
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Interesting to see multiple mentions of The Ramp Up at Bickerton - I saw Ross's social-media post a while back and filed it away as a problem that looked really good, and interestingly enough will be spending NYE not far away, with a couple of days free after. The UKC page says that it dries quickly and is a year-round option but, given it's sandstone and the amount of rain we've had, is heading there on Sunday or Monday a terrible idea? All info much appreciated and apologies for going off-topic.
It's definitely a bit of a hidden gem. I also really enjoyed the lower grade stuff on the right hand side of the crag. The actual arete with all the hard climbing dries very quickly and there is nothing very fragile on it. You'd probably be fine with that. The roof to access it is a different matter. I imagine the jugs will be quite goopy/muddy, and it's chossy at the best of times (see my entry). Having said that, I'm not sure they ever really dry up, I've been after a dry summer and they were still smeggy then, so I'm not really sure where the the line should be drawn as when it is acceptable to climb and not. :shrug:
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Top three boulder problems, UK
Not one!
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Nothing here either...
Top three five E2s
Had a great year for UK trad. and could have easily chosen a different five almost as good.
Torro, my first rock route on Ben Nevis. Amazing weather, great company, and eight pitches which almost qualifies it as FLMH&MF. A cloudless sky after the morning mist lifted, we finished around 2pm, and the route was in the sun the whole time. I was fine with the walk-in but unfortunately didn't have enough oomph for a second route and was battered the day after.
Silver Shadow. Almost anything at Stackpole is great and this is one of the best. A good trip to Pembroke with Simon.
Troach, a representative from several glorious days up at Cloggy in the summer heat, with H. The E2 that thinks it's an E5, impressive for 1958, very much not following an obvious crack or groove.
Charenton Crack. Definitive 5.10d and pretty flippin’ uphill for an E2.
Ten Degrees North, thirty degrees Celsius. An unbelievably hot day in the pass, like summer in Spain, Dinas Mot in the evening was just about cool enough to climb. Immaculate rock and three continuously interesting pitches.
Top three sport routes UK
An unusually unmemorable year for UK sport climbing. I had two pleasant training days, a third when I fell off the warm-up and injured myself, and that was it.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
La Galère a Ceuse 7a onsight on my birthday on a trip that almost didn't happen. Kept trying even though several moves seemed unlikely at first sight. Very satisfying.
Las flores del mal 6c+ at Etxauri (ie 7a anywhere else), a very good trip with Simon. Got most of the way up this first go on my first day then spent the rest of the trip intermittently failing lower down. Pulled my finger out and stopped faffing on the last day.
Natilik with Wil and Martin. Great fun, very photogenic.
Top spankings
Covid after-effects lingered for a good six months of the year. Mild compared to many but as it affected one of my long suits, going at it all day long, I took it personally. This was followed-up with...
...Cellulitis in my right leg, which completely flattened me in May. Very nearly cancelled a Ceuse trip and the walk-in took 2 hours on the first go. The fatigue and breathlessness continued for several more months, my foot is still a bit swollen and my stock of size 9.5 Blancos need it to shrink back to normal. Investigations are ongoing.
Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor. First time I've given up on a Mod. Battered from the previous day on Ben Nevis and jelly-like quads. meant I didn't feel safe. It's given me something to work on the remainder this year.
Top three twentieth century music live events
London Sinfonietta: Messiaen's Quartet for the End of Time, one of my all-time favourites, with The Editor who I first saw it with 28 years ago.
The lad: Gavin Bryars' With Miriam By The Water. Simple-sounding piece that's difficult to do well. He did it really well.
Kikagaku Moyo: farewell tour. with Ben. 1973 lives on! "A cracking late summer Sunday evening"
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A year where I became a sport climber, very much enjoyed it although slightly disappointed in the lack of trad psyche.
Top 3 Trad/grand days out.
Could just pick 3 big headpoints I did but they never feel that traddy in the end. Although most of the other trad-esque things I did were more highballs. Slim pickings. Anyhow:
Had an amazing evening in rock hall at the Roaches in January, some of the best weather I’ve experienced. So dry and crisp and a moon so bright you could explore the crag in the middle of the night sans torch. Was like being on another planet. The next day it was equally crisp with an inversion to boot. We got the pads under Entropy’s Jaw. After two mates cruised it, I felt the pressure was on and proceeded to wobble my way up, culminating in a desperate slap for the top, phew!
Scotland in early June, spent two consecutive days slogging up to Garbh Bheinn. What a crag! After being absorbed into the EUMC, we quested about on the lower extremes there. Class routes and would love to go back, maybe with some stronger legs.
The last one is a simple one but sometimes they’re the best. Following Sam up the big three at Almscliff and doing three other classics myself. Perfect gritstone, perfect craic.
Honourable mentions:
Bowderstone bouldering followed by Troutdale pinnacling
Hepburn boshing
Pembers psyche
And peak raiding.
Top 3 sport UK
Soft Option at Kilnsey. Many enjoyable sessions with lots of great friends. Felt so good to slowly inch my way higher and eventually slap that final jug.
The sea is a brown paper bag at Chee Dale. Great name, great route. Middle of a heatwave with my brother, skin falling to pieces.
Hard to pick this one but it’s between Innes Dreams and Staying Power at Yew Cogar. Both involved busy days at a quiet little crag. The scenes were great! Definitely my favourite venue this year, enjoyed laying at the bottom cocooned from the wind, staring up at those amazing holds.
Top 3 sport abroad (Kalymnos)
Fran-fran at Kalydna. An intimidating line and a total quest. Spent ages working my way up, felt a lot of doubt on this one. At least it was chalked!
Boom Boom at Odyssey. Wanted to do this for ages. Didn’t work it out very well and turned into a total fight. Scraped through the crux and then the last tricky moves to pull onto easier ground. With fingers pinging off a crimp just as I reached the good hold.
Leonides at Spartacus. Again, intimidatingly vert for me, but leads you on with a few more good holds than you’re expecting. Ended up being 35m of joy.
Top 3 spankings
Subculture at Kilnsey. Progressed quickly but was never really enjoying it. Gave up after falling off right at the top.
Pulsar Direct at Higgar Tor. That move is nails!
Pinky at Brimham. Fucking grit.
Top non-climbing
Leeds is great. :icon_beerchug:
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A good year. (Grades included because last year Guy told me off for leaving them out)
Top three sport routes (spring/early summer)
Momento Payaso (8b+, Otinar) - Things like this are why I go to Europe and why I train (and why I train my kneebars!). Sections and rests, gradually getting more pumped, leaving the final rest really hoping the holds round the lip aren’t going to turn out to be slopers and the relief when they turn out to be ok... 90s trance psyche-up… God I love that stuff.
El coleccionista de pasos L2 (8b, Otinar) - Another long wonder route – bouldery start, then tufa wrestling, then a beautiful upper wall. Basically a test of whether you can still onsight V2 boulders between huge rests after 40 minutes of climbing.
First Flight (8c+, Acepahle) - Cool fingery and shouldery crux low down, then an upper wall/slab that’s big moves on big holds on a slab – very cool and unusual. If all vert/slab routes were like that upper wall I’d be a lot more keen on them! First time in a long while that I’d climbed something hard on fingery holds which was cool too. Standing on the little ledge with only easy climbing above, facing out and taking in the view of the Bow Valley felt like one of those moments to pause, soak it up and store away the memories.
Top three sport routes (late summer/autumn)
Malcolm in the Middle (8c+, Chee Dale) - Had wanted to bolt this bit of wall for a couple of years, nice to finally get around to it. Climbed quite differently to how I expected, but that turned out to be a good thing as it kept the sequence further away from Monumental and so less eliminate. Not a spectacular three star line, but a satisfying little challenge and nice to do something new.
Queimada (8b+, Rosario) - You know the deal by now… Long onsight, fighting hard between good rests, gradually getting more and more tired… Wrestling the big dinosaur-esque tufa at the top was just the right side of exciting vs traumatic, one of those where you just have to go move-by move and knee-by-knee as there’s no chance of reading the sequence far in advance!
La Rubia (8c+, Rosario) - World class 50m pumper. Didn’t work the top well enough and fell off by getting stuck unable to reach the penultimate hold with my knee in a hole. Needed to gain an extra inch, and it could have come from any set of muscles from my fingers too my toes, but my arms were too pumped to pull, my legs were too pumped to push, and my core was too pumped to sit up any higher. Brilliant!
Top non-climbing
Not having any (major) mental implosions for a year (although hurting my back a few days before going to Spain did send me down the start of a pretty unhappy spiral).
Continuing to live our current lifestyle in a financially sustainable way.
Top two boulder problems, UK
Chilamb Baalmb (8A+/B, Griff’s) - Fun Griff’s season in Spring, doing dumb links so that we could exploit the endless puns
Super Size Me (8A, Curbar) - Cool kneebar sequence
Top two boulder problems, abroad
World is on Fire (8B, Frankenjura) Very me – power enduro boulder in a roof, spinning around on kneebars and toehooks. Also a lesson that Germans drop map pins very accurately and you should follow those and not your instinct when looking for boulders!
New one (8A, Frankenjura) Fun and chilled day out bouldering at a little roof with some locals and doing a new “tight line” though the middle of the roof (again revolving around tricksy knees, surprise surprise!)
Top spankings
Terminator (Frankenjura) - Pulled my lat/oblique, and with 5 days until we were due to drive to Spain I couldn’t hang on a bar with two hands because it hurt so much. Thankfully it fixed up pretty quickly!
Musee Imaginaire (Curbar) - Pulled my hamstring just before Spring’s Spain trip; not been back.
Doing a high volume of climbing - I just can’t do hard onsights and volume, meaning volume often gets sacrificed.
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Interesting to see multiple mentions of The Ramp Up at Bickerton - I saw Ross's social-media post a while back and filed it away as a problem that looked really good, and interestingly enough will be spending NYE not far away, with a couple of days free after. The UKC page says that it dries quickly and is a year-round option but, given it's sandstone and the amount of rain we've had, is heading there on Sunday or Monday a terrible idea? All info much appreciated and apologies for going off-topic.
It's definitely a bit of a hidden gem. I also really enjoyed the lower grade stuff on the right hand side of the crag. The actual arete with all the hard climbing dries very quickly and there is nothing very fragile on it. You'd probably be fine with that. The roof to access it is a different matter. I imagine the jugs will be quite goopy/muddy, and it's chossy at the best of times (see my entry). Having said that, I'm not sure they ever really dry up, I've been after a dry summer and they were still smeggy then, so I'm not really sure where the the line should be drawn as when it is acceptable to climb and not. :shrug:
Pretty much on the money there. The pockets in the back wall and roof seem to require de-gunking during the first spring dry spell, it helps them dry out a little quicker for the rest of the year. I wouldn't bank on any of them being dry at the moment given recent weather. Less roofy stuff to the right like Campusology and Cheshire Life might be alright though.
The Dugout is about 30 minutes south and perma dry though if that's close enough for you!
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Thanks Rob and Ross, that's really useful!
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Top three boulder problems, UK
I did very little bouldering in the UK this year. The highlights were more highball things..
Recurring Nightmare, Burbage (E4/5/Font 6b?).
Some people slag UKC logbooks, but I noticed someone had cleaned and done it in a cool period, in July. The following evening was also breezy, so we headed out in search of chalky coattails. Lots of up and down and encouragement from Tuffty and the sequence to get the ledge was finally unlocked using a delightful sloper.
Apartment with Fear, Wyming Brook (E5/Font 6c).
A mate had done this in the spring and I thought it might be worth a punt during the same breezy July weather. After hours of bashing around in the undergrowth getting all sweaty and bothered, I finally found the buttress. It’s big! And overhanging. The holds are that quite frictionless black grit and it’s quite forceful climbing. Worth seeking out.
Gritstone Megamix, Birchin (Font 7a).
I’d backed off this previously, but this time we had enough pads. It was October and by the time I did get stood up above the roof it was dark and suddenly rather than being stood in balance, I was a starfish. I engaged emergency grovel and dragged myself up to the break above.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
We had a family Font trip at Easter…
Hybris, Demoiselles
This is a highball black star 7b+ up the centre of a beautiful boulder, hidden away and utilising the most perfect wide pinch in all of Le Foret. I put a short rope and harness in my bag with this problem in mind having previously tied it GU. After working the top, it took lots of goes to stick the crux deadpoint from the ground. Once I had the pocket, I had to engage all thrusters to get my feet up. This problem has also opened my middle-aged-Dad-with-one-pad mind to others where a bit of pre-practice off a rope might make them more realistic/justifiable.
Poseidon, Apremont
More fabulous Font prow paddling. There’s a lowball compression 7c next to it and a doable looking 7c+/8a pillar as well.
Arete Scherrer, Restant du Long Rocher
Big moves with a small-ish crimp and pinchy arete. Combines well with the superb other 7a-7bs at the main Long Rocher sector.
Top three Grit trad routes UK
I didn’t have much of an opportunity to go trad climbing outside of the Peak this year, but had some great evenings out on the Grit in the spring…
The Fall, Curbar (flash)
A bit of a wandering line, but nice sequences and positions. I did a few things in this style in the spring. I don’t think I could’ve read the top moves ‘on-sight’ as it’s pretty blind, so was quite chuffed with the flash as it felt quite spicy. It’s a 3-star route, surrounded by 4-star routes.
Wall of Sound (flash)
I’ve always liked the look of this wall. Nic and I tried this years ago and we both downclimbed as we weren’t happy about the gear. Rich Simpson was there so can vouch for this. I could tell that I would need to bone the hell out of the first crimp on the crux, so spent a bit of time on the ground crimping a small edge before setting off. It’s a very bouldery route so I gave the moves full commitment. It all clicked and before I knew it, I was on the arete.
Apoplexy (headpoint)
There are so many good routes at Millstone and this one is a ‘baby E7’. I did wonder about trying ‘ground up’, having on-sighted Perplexity 13 years earlier, but decided it was probably asking a bit too much. The Perplexity arete felt v sketchy on top rope and I did not trust the wire at all. The upper arete is runout but safe. It’s gymnastic climbing with a big lock, heel hooks and slaps in a great position.
Top three non-Grit trad/winter/Alpine routes UK
Scarab (headpoint)
What I like about Stoney is the routes are hard. Scarab gets slagged off for being polished but it’s 7b climbing on small wires - brilliant. I need to go back to lead All Systems Go, as I top roped that one as well.
Summer Time Blues (winter)
I’d arranged to join a couple of mates for a weekend away in December in the optimistic hope that we could go and clip pegbolts on Anglesey, but the weekend coincided with the cold snap and Tuffty was ill. I picked up Rich at 5.30am. We drove to Borrowdale and walked into Gable thinking the chances of anything being ‘in’ were slim and that we’d be fell walking for the day. At Windy Gap the north-facing crag was looking decidedly frozen and white. We did a V 6 on the left with Rich leading the main pitch, topping out after sunset. There was no wind all day and I can’t think I’ve had a more magical winter day in the Lakes. Sometimes it’s worth making the effort and going to have a look.
Portjegrat Traverse (Alpine)
I went to the Alps for a week with work to do some filming on the Mittellegi Ridge, but it was during the bonkers hot period, so we didn’t go near it. The Portjengrat Traverse was the warm up earlier in the week. Recommended.
Top three sport routes
I didn’t do any UK sport climbing this year. I did two days in Swizzy rather than the Eiger, which was quite unexpected, but I had a Mountain Guide who belayed me…
Feenzauber, 7a, Sustenpass
Technical corner climbing. Very traddy.
Versuchung, 7b, Sustenpass
Overhanging prow on crimps and sidepulls. Missed a hold and cocked up the last move on the on-sight.
Quereinsteiger, 6b+, Sustenpass
Multipitch sustained wall climbing on excellent rock. Short-roped off the summit.
Top 3 races
London Marathon.
I trained for 16 weeks from mid-June through the hot summer. There is something quite empowering about getting fit. My longest long run in training was one of my best ever runs. On the day it all started unravelling quickly (possibly excitement, possibly a bit warm… my heart rate was through the roof), but I made sure that I soaked in the experience despite having a terrible run in purely running terms. It was a privilege to be out there on the course. I said afterwards that I’d never do another road race, but I have a feeling that I will try another marathon. It’s the ‘purity’ of the effort. In climbing you can use lank, or something’s a soft touch, or you get lucky. On the roads there is absolutely nowhere to hide.
Go Big Moor
Low key local fell race two weeks after London. I gave a good account of myself and was pleased to put my fitness to good use.
Trigger
My 3rd Trigger way back in January. I was seriously questioning my life choices at the end. 6 hours of being cold and wet is not much fun and my bad ankle did not like me. I have not entered for 2023.
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Top four boulder problems, UK
- Paul's Peach, Honley Old Wood: as well as the other lines of the slab. Great little piece of rock, in a surprising location. The perfect lowball slab!
- Nicotine Wall, Cwm Glas Bach: On first glance, I gave myself absolutely no chance. Crimps were too small, feet too high, next hold too far, etc.. all the classics. After a few goes it suddenly seemed plausible, and within a few more I'd done it! Really surprising. Was also on an incredible weekend in Wales weather-wise - mid/late March, not a cloud all weekend, actually warm in the sun (although freezing in the shade).
- The Diamond, Eskdale Fisherground: Nice height, nice moves, nice landing, nice rock (when slabby, tore me to shreds on the steeper stuff). I did unfortunately come away from the day with 12 ticks (bugs not sends :(), mainly on my ankles, which was annoying.
- The Best Easy Arete, Torridon: Flash right at the end of a beautiful autumn day there. Really cool moves, not massively hard either. Stunning setting, will definitely remain on my list of places to go in Scotland, despite now having been!
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Enjoyed most things I got on, could easily come up with a few more lists of routes I enjoyed just as much.
- Hairy Mary, Suidhe Biorach: Best route I've done, for sure. Gambled on the forecast and walked over in time to do this before sunset. Abbed down as far as the junction with the corner but it was soaked beneath so belayed from there. The actual route was as stunning as the pictures make it look, with the kind of holds that we see in doors and think "Jugs are never that good outdoors". Finished in the last of the sunlight, boggy walk out in the dark. Quality.
- Whaup Edge, Eastby: A too-cold-for-trad day in January, when we only had trad gear in the car so didn't have a choice! Crazy pebbles (biggest around?), with a fair amount of spice.
- Arrow Route Direct, Sron na Ciche: Couple days after Suidhe Biorach, managed to get a dry day on the Cuillin when it seemed very unlikely. Just about the perfect pitch really, although maybe a small increase in gear wouldn't go amiss. Was pretty cool to look back down it when stood on top! Glad to tick this one off the long term list.
Top three of anything, abroad
- Dalle a poly, L'elephant: Been wanting to do it for years, finally actually went to the crag. Really easy in the end, with an ok number of pads, although still not enough to protect a good portion of it! Always feels great to be up at that height, with the massive jugs, and feel completely in control. Part of a broadly unsuccessful yet thoroughly enjoyable Font trip, not really getting up much but still having a great time.
- Sono in Fuga, Scogliera Di Salinella: Simply for the reason that both hands having monos/stacked monos, seemingly unavoidable, on an overhanging wall, on a F6a, is quite a rarity!
- Via Delle Punte, Monte Monaco: Another from Sicily, this time a 12 pitch full day mission! 13.5 hrs car to car, some in full sun in the morning, then quite cold shade later; a full mix of superb climbing on great (if a bit sharp) rock, to hacking through undergrowth on a weaving, ropedragging traverse; lunch in a tiny cave definitely not big enough for both of us; topped out in the last of the light. One of the overall highlights of my year, great day out.
Top three sport routes
Didn't really do enough aside from Sicily to make a list. One day at Giggleswick, half a day at Masson Lees, and one route in Never Never Land.
Top three new routes/problems put up
None, I just take, take, take ;)
Top spankings
- Crocodile, Franchard Isatis: I know, shameful. Didn't even feel close tbh, although I appreciate that may not mean much on a boulder like this.
- Getting destroyed on the crux of a 6b in Sicily. Absolutely nails. Felt harder than the 7a+ next to it.
- Celtic Knot, Torridon: Spent ages getting tantalisingly close, no idea how I didn't manage, then slipped while spotting and went down arse first into the bog. An hour summed up in an instant.
Other categories
- Nearest epic: My partner scrambling around the foot of Gideon's Wrath at Sgurr a' Chaorachain, to second, and then losing her footing and taking a tumble, nearly off the terrace and over the next drop. Luckily was tied in, helmet on, but still was pretty scary - she was rolling for longer than I'd have liked! Stay safe out there everyone
Away from climbing...
Top races
- Peco XC (Leeds): New club, first race in a few months, first XC since school. Pissed it down the whole time, freezing cold, lots of mud. Excellent.
- Otley 10: Hilly road race, set myself what I thought would be an ambitious goal of 8 mins per mile, 80 mins, and finished just over 25 seconds, which I was very pleased with! Most importantly, felt like I cruised the hills, which gave me confidence for...
- Snowdonia Trail Marathon: In the middle of the July heatwave, got round in a decent position, and time, given the conditions. Had a great time, will be continuing that type of stuff in future.
- Honourable mention to Ilkley Incline cos it's just hilarious and brutal in equal measures.
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Here we go again. It's been another fun year squeezing climbing around family life. I've added Instagram links to some so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about.
Best established boulder problems
Keystone Prow 6C, Loch Eribol
A lone problem on a lone block on the shore of a north coast sea loch. Great moves through a really obvious feature with the crux right at the end. I had a week off in September and after a bit of time at Sheigra drove up to check out this beauty. What I didn't know was that it's tidal and as I arrived the sea was just creeping under the crux. I worked out the moves but just didn't have time to rest enough to get it done before it had turned into a shallow water solo. Tides, weather and other plans took me elsewhere but I made the journey again at the end of the week and got it done. A 5 hour round trip for one problem. Is that the definition of madness?
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci5darUDiZV/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Potential Seven 7B, Torridon
A long haul. I cant even remember when I first tried it but recall thinking it wouldn't take that long back. But it did. I tried various ways to do the crux last big throw and eventually settled on a way that I was very close to doing. With a couple of inches more reach I'd have done it years ago but I kept coming up short. Covid and other projects intervened but I worked on big moves and flexibility and when this season came around I was closer than ever, but still not enough. I could go from the start to the crux every time but then straight down to the pads. I'd never made the big move, even in isolation. By degrees I worked out slightly different foot positions until I found that a way I'd previously written off as too lanky was actually feasible and suddenly I could stick that big move. Then it was just a matter of rest and good conditions to make the link, but I was kept guessing till the last minute and the stars finally aligned on the last session of the year on the 28th of December. Phew.
Best new boulder problems
Am Bàta 7Bish, Torridon
Possibly as good as it'll ever get for me. Back in 2019 I stumbled upon this beautiful little ship's prow sticking out of the slope just beyond Torridon village: a truly aesthetic feature that screams out to be climbed and is probably as good a line as I've seen anywhere. It took a few sessions to clean and sort the landing and I did the stand start back then, but the full line has to be done from a sit. Of course, Covid lockdowns came along so I didn't get back for a while and it wasn't until January this year that it all came together. I really miss those sessions up there, overlooking Loch Torridon and over to Beinn Damph, eagles circling above me on Liathach, oystercatcher and gulls foraging on the loch shore. Magic.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CYwzXiUIWiJ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
True Gold Dance 7A+ish, Gold Dance Boulders, Strathconon
The king line of Easter Ross choss. A bit of a filler, but actually the most logical way up a proper feature. Back in 2018 I did the original problem Gold Dance which squeezes between the obvious arete and a crack and starts sitting in between them on a wee boulder. As soon as I did that I realised the true line was to start sitting on the ground to the right, directly beneath the arete, but it was a fair bit harder. Ted Collins came along and climbed the arete direct without the crack to give True Gold, but that's actually an eliminate (all be at a very aesthetic one) because it avoids the Gold Dance crack which is within reach. So one cold night in January I took out the lamps and managed to link Ted's start into Gold Dance to give the logical line.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CY9JrQXoGPh/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
The Missing Lynx 6C+ish, Aspen Terrace, Strathconon
Summer in the Highlands is often pretty shit for bouldering. It's warm and humid, there are midges and ticks and there is loads of tall, wet bracken crowding round the bottom of crags and boulders. Rather than get frustrated trying to climb its a good time of year to get out the cleaning kit and scrub new problems that will be in good nick in the autumn or winter when the midges, bracken and ticks have all fucked off. This was the best (so far) of a handful I unearthed from this cool wall, and the ascent itself was made all the more memorable by dragging my kids up there with me and making a real mini adventure out of it.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjyRqUdDzU4/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Best established trad routes
Ossuary E5 6b, Reiff in the Woods
I don't think I've ever had a day out like this one before, when from the outset both Murdoch and I agreed we'd be headpointing. I was keen to do this route of Ian Taylor's, having looked across the loch at it from the boulders for years. A crack up the middle of the face of a giant block, guarded by small roovesbelow - safe but a bit of spaced gear and hard enough to feel justified in trying on a rope first. And the view from the belay above, looking over to Stac Pollaidh, is pretty special. Suffice to say, Murdoch onsighted it years ago and was headpointing harder things that day.
The Crank VS 5a, Ramshaw
Back in my trad days I always shied away from cracks and jamming, always being tempted more towards delicate slabs and open faces. I always knew it was a weakness and a new route I wanted to try (see below) meant I was keen to change my ways. On a hot day in August my very patient (non-climbing) wife offered to give me a belay while down in Stafford with the in-laws and Ramshaw was the obvious place. I don't think I've ever tried so hard on a VS, but it was nice to see that the work I'd put into learning how to jam had paid off.
Best new trad route
Katie Morag E3 6b (ish), Camas an Leim, Shieldaig
Bonjoy tipped me off to this one, a short fierce crack through a roof into a groove on a small crag on a beautiful beach in one of my favourite parts of the world. I gave it a clean and checked it from a rope and realised it was very safe but had a pretty hard sequence turning the lip and getting established in the groove - particularly tricky as I've always been shit at jamming. I tried it by myself over a few sessions but found it almost impossible to work the section under the roof (need to improve my ropework skills) and eventually realised I just needed to come with a belayer and try it from the ground - easier said than done as I don't know many folk that would be willing to essentially give up a day just to belay me. In the mean time I built some cracks on my board and watched some Wideboyz videos. Andy E of this parish kindly came out one day and after a lob on the first attempt I got up it 2nd go. The things dreams are made of.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CdT3qNtjHla/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
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(Grades included because last year Guy told me off for leaving them out)
I'm in favour of grades being included, firstly so I can see how much of a wad everyone is, and secondly because I haven't heard of all these things, so I'd like to know where they are and how hard they are to know if they could be in my own Best of 2025s.
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I had a bumper year of adventures of all sorts, it's been good to reminisce about them! Photos here. (https://factortwo.co.uk/best-of-2022)
Top three trad routes/solos UK
- Torro, E2, Carn Dearg
A gorgeous day and climbed the whole thing in the sunshine. Ben nevis has (mostly) been very kind to me this year. - The Steeple, E2, Shelterstone
Much harder than I expected. My partner only led the 4b pitch so I had a real treat. We camped out on top, but our plan to get a route done on Hell's Lum the day before was foiled by persistent rain. This eased off in the evening and we had brilliant views and a rainbow across Loch Avon. I spent a lot of time going back and forth on the crux, unable to find the hold in the one patch of seepage on the route, and it also started raining at this point. The corner pitch is one of the best around. We stupidly only took 7 cams which didn't matter too much, but did make for a few spicy runouts. The walkout was interesting too (see below). - Elastic Collision, E3, Reiff
We abandoned plans for winter climbing when the temperature on top of the Ben was 5C, and escaped to some early season sunshine on Reiff. First time there and a great couple of days.
Top three sport routes UK
- The Raven, F7a+, Minchin Hole
Went to Cardiff for a stag do and linked it with seeing family and a few days on Gower with some friends. A little too hot, but Minchin Hole was a good call. We were actually trying to find a different crag, but failed. My mate put the clips in this and I stole the beta and flashed it. Was quite chuffed. Went for a swim and found the other crag too. - Jump the Sun, F7a+, Minchin Hole
On the opposite wall is this completely contrasting route, with a steep, bouldery section at the end. Had a real fight to get up it. - Marlena, F7c, Dunkeld
I thought this would be easy after a trip to Ceüse, but it's a totally different style. The moves started to feel easier, but I got really shut down at the top. I think it was mostly psychological in the end. I threw the towel in, deciding I needed a bit more training, and did the sensible thing of ticking the 7b+s instead, then had a burn because someone's draws were in. Felt piss, naturally. Probably my best week's sport climbing ever.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
- Natilik, F6b+, Ceüse
Mega route, wonderful positions and a real adventure. Good to top out onto the plateau even though it was freezing. - Au Sud de Nulle Part, F7b, Ceüse
Didn't think I'd get up a 7b here, nearly didn't on this one! A good confidence booster after taking a scary fall on another route. - La Paz Del Borrego, F7b, Chulilla
Was almost off every other move for the last 10m. Always good when you've got the fight. Invented a new karate kick manoevre near the top to keep myself on, which I will patent and sell to Honnold.
Top three new routes/problems put up
I'm such a freeloader.
Top three mountain adventures
- Point Five Gully, V, Ben Nevis
All time wishlist route, didn't disappoint and I was plenty fit enough to enjoy it. Blue sky day too. - Cuillin Ridge
My birthday present to myself was to do this solo in a day. Flagged a bit halfway through, but an emergency coffee got me back on track and I was running down the final stretch to the pub. Had to skip the TD Gap due to damp, but the bypass is actually quite interesting and as a climber the tricky bits aren't really the fun of it, just the sheer volume. - Curved Ridge and the rest of the Buachaille.
Ticked the Munros in lovely September sunshine with the hint of frost in the air on the summits.
Top spankings
I'm glad this isn't limited to three. Year of the Spank for me.
- Some bastard took a shit on us on Point Five Gully. My partner was leading the Rogue pitch at the time. He went mental, I didn't know what was going on until the dirty snowflakes started falling. It did not smell healthy and everything I had with me had to go in the wash afterwards. Martin had it worse, being in a committed position and closer to ground zero. I may have been inoculated to some extent by 2 years working in care with confused, incontinent people.
- Je t'aime moi non plus, 7a, Orpierre
Despite being pretty fit I just could not get up this, I powered out every time I hit the crux, and it's not even a particularly powerful route! - Bought a second hand mountain bike. Promptly wiped out at Laggan Wolftrax, rolled right over, off the track, and got a pedal embedded in my leg. Could have been a lot worse. Wife was not impressed.
- Un Pont sur l'Infini, F7a, Ceüse
Wanted to break my duck and get on a 7 early at Ceüse. Stumbled my way up this. Tried to redpoint but I was a bundle of nerves and not climbing smoothly at all. Lobbed off the crux and my leg fell behind the rope in between two bolts. Hit the lower bolt with my calf and flipped. All a little scary. Felt like a total punter. Some bad bruising and a bit fo ropeburn, but thankfully didn't spoil an excellent trip. Did not get back on! - The Long Reach, E2, Etive Slabs
I like to think I'm good at slabs and runouts. This should be my bread and butter, but I was pretty scared. We inched our way up, a lot slower than expected due to routefinding issues, runouts and wobbly flakes. Went the wrong way on one pitch, eventually made it to the final overlap to find that there were two large wet streaks barring progress. Started raining. Ran away. We abandoned a few nuts, then used someone else's anchor lower down. The cam in this popped as I was abseiling (to be expected, it was a seized up alien) which was a little scary, although backed up with 2 good nuts. Rematch this year. Had dreams of the Pinch Direct, but we'll see! - The following day the only viable options seemed to be Tunnel Walls. Got totally spanked by the warm up. Will return.
Top non-climbing
- Bought a house!
- Entertained many visiting climbers and in-laws successfully at said house.
- Completed various training courses: Health and Social Care SVQ (compulsory for work) C# course with UHI (interesting to formalise coding I've done before, learned lots) Machine Learning through U of Stirling (confirmed my suspicion that I do not want to be a Data Scientist). Have been accepted on a free bootcamp from January to try to build on these skills with Git, Java, Javascript/CSS/HTML and actually earn some dollar. Advice welcome.
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Normally just a lurker here but really enjoyed reading other peoples posts so I thought I'd join in!
Top three boulder problems, UK
Colt (Anston) - Had a play on it last year and it felt a long way off for me so it was a really nice indicator of progress. Also, I grew up in Anston running around the woods (although I didnt climb) so it always feels special heading down for an early morning session when visiting my parents!
Bloodlust (Clodgy Point) - Beautiful weather, beers on the beach and a quick send on some cool rock.
The Pinch (Pleasley Vale) - The crag doesnt seem to get much love but I really enjoyed it (another one that was a stop off driving up to see family) and also my first of the grade in a session.
Honourable mentions - Knuckle Duster Sit (Hambrook) and Pop for the top LH (Biblins).
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Only got into trad this June so had a great time with some very patient/generous partners!
Strapiombante (E1 5b, Froggat) - First E1 in the peak and also my first proper whips on gear. Dreams of Strapadictomy in the future!
Gollum (E1 5b, Goblin Combe) - Cool moves past a huge flake, got pretty freaked a out, wanged some gear in and kept plodding. Had many after work sessions at this crag with a friend which looking back makes me miss summer even more.
Connoisseurs Choice (E2 6b, Sea Walls) - Felt pretty scary and was so happy to get it done! Might be controversial having an Avon route in my top 3, but its 5 mins away and I love the place!
Top three sport routes UK
First tied in in March, had a fun few months then mostly got distracted with trad!
Goal for next year, get on routes that require some endurance...
Hail Mary (7a, Tirpenwys) - Beautiful SW sandstone crimps!
Raw Deal (7a, Cheddar) - First of the grade (not sure if this stands) but felt really fun nonetheless.
Cut-Throat (7a+, Burton Combe) - Just a big boulder problem with a few bolts, but again felt good and was a great time with friends.
Top spankings
Against the Grain (f7b+, Llangattock) - Actually made some good progress on it and failed on the last moves a few times, just a comiting release and big final move to get put together. Need to get back!
Study in Scarlett (f7a+, Lonely Shepherd) - Punted off of the final move a few times (which Ive done over and over every session). Not too sure why I havent done it yet...
Breakfast (f7a, Burbage) - Boxing day session, struggled with releasing the heel/toe and not swinging off. Really keen to get it next time Im visiting family in Sheff.
Top non-climbing
Published a few papers, entered the last year of my PhD and had some great weekends away in the van with my partner!
Fingers crossed for a successful 2023!
Thanks for the entertainment/procrastination this year!
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I don't do enough climbing to fit into the categories so...
Best trips/days out/whatever
Bouldering in Joshua Tree
Started the day off by getting stressed about pad rentals on the drive over from Palm Springs, the outdoor company I thought I could hire from was closed - but I had nothing to fear - there is a crash pad vending machine!
(https://i.imgur.com/Stvukzp.jpg)
I had a great day out, totally destroyed my forearms on Gunsmoke traverse (V2, but actually french 7aish). The worst possible warmup. Hopped around some other easy classics, and drove a few miles down a dirt track in the middle of the desert to fail to climb Slashface (V4) - It's 10m high and I was alone, with a single pad and no phone signal so thats probably for the best.
Millstone/Lawrencefield
I’ve not really done much trad climbing since 2014, but this year I had a couple of days ticking off classics as some ”Norway training”.
Highlight was climbing Billy Whizz, what an amazing route, having been aware of it pretty much since I started climbing was brilliant to do something on the back of the pool wall. Surprisingly pumpy given most of it is a slab.
Also ticked off Great Peter, Plexity, Dexterity, Lyon’s Corner House, Regent Street, The Mall and a few others, some repeats but just brilliant fun getting back into trad climbing, gaining confidence, and wondering why I’d never worn jamming gloves before?!
Lofoten
I got some raised eyebrows when I told our antenatal group I’d miss the 2 hour session on breastfeeding so I could go rock-climbing in Norway one month before our babies due date. I have to thank a very understanding wife, and even more understanding Norwegian weather gods for making it successful.
We had 8 days of climbing, it was a heatwave in the arctic circle and by the end of it I was totally sated. Highlight was climbing Vestpillaren Direct. Presten gets all the sun going and it was 28º so we started at around 10pm (I think). Pitch after pitch of perfect granite, with no queueing and an awesome walk off - all by the midnight sun. We were back a few days later for Heaven Can Wait, not quite as good but with some amazing pitches - the last 4 to the top of the wall are sensational.
(https://i.imgur.com/JHBVXWb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OoxsuKN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bhMrAEz.jpg)
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Some bastard took a shit on us on Point Five Gully.
If it’s any consolation I just pissed myself laughing. And it still made it into your top five routes of the year! :lol:
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Lofoten visitors: how did you get there? I've looked into going but couldn't work out the most up to date logistics around flight routes etc.
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Getting close to my long term project but being denied by it getting wet in early October and it not drying out, learnt lots in the process.
Had a great season in Gordale doing Cave route right probably the best 7b+ in the UK, 35 years after first doing it as a trad route!
Also Dog Point 7c and Right Con 7c brilliant routes with great company.
And abroad doing a superb 4 pitch multi-pitch with Adi Woods in Arco Nemesis, Adi’s first multi-pitch sport route and a brilliant afternoon out.
And last of all passing my Performance Coach Award
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Lofoten visitors: how did you get there? I've looked into going but couldn't work out the most up to date logistics around flight routes etc.
We flew into Tromso and drove down (6 hours), with the idea being we could visit Stetind "on the way". Didn't happen like that in the end.
If going again I would look at flying into Evenes (2.5 hours to Henningsvær) or even Svolvær (30 mins to Henningsvær)
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Good to know. 6 hours is quite a drive, but it sounds like an incredible destination, so maybe that's worth it!
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Here we go again. It's been another fun year squeezing climbing around family life. I've added Instagram links to some so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about.
Best established boulder problems
Keystone Prow 6C, Loch Eribol
A lone problem on a lone block on the shore of a north coast sea loch. Great moves through a really obvious feature with the crux right at the end. I had a week off in September and after a bit of time at Sheigra drove up to check out this beauty. What I didn't know was that it's tidal and as I arrived the sea was just creeping under the crux. I worked out the moves but just didn't have time to rest enough to get it done before it had turned into a shallow water solo. Tides, weather and other plans took me elsewhere but I made the journey again at the end of the week and got it done. A 5 hour round trip for one problem. Is that the definition of madness?
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci5darUDiZV/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Potential Seven 7B, Torridon
A long haul. I cant even remember when I first tried it but recall thinking it wouldn't take that long back. But it did. I tried various ways to do the crux last big throw and eventually settled on a way that I was very close to doing. With a couple of inches more reach I'd have done it years ago but I kept coming up short. Covid and other projects intervened but I worked on big moves and flexibility and when this season came around I was closer than ever, but still not enough. I could go from the start to the crux every time but then straight down to the pads. I'd never made the big move, even in isolation. By degrees I worked out slightly different foot positions until I found that a way I'd previously written off as too lanky was actually feasible and suddenly I could stick that big move. Then it was just a matter of rest and good conditions to make the link, but I was kept guessing till the last minute and the stars finally aligned on the last session of the year on the 28th of December. Phew.
Best new boulder problems
Am Bàta 7Bish, Torridon
Possibly as good as it'll ever get for me. Back in 2019 I stumbled upon this beautiful little ship's prow sticking out of the slope just beyond Torridon village: a truly aesthetic feature that screams out to be climbed and is probably as good a line as I've seen anywhere. It took a few sessions to clean and sort the landing and I did the stand start back then, but the full line has to be done from a sit. Of course, Covid lockdowns came along so I didn't get back for a while and it wasn't until January this year that it all came together. I really miss those sessions up there, overlooking Loch Torridon and over to Beinn Damph, eagles circling above me on Liathach, oystercatcher and gulls foraging on the loch shore. Magic.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CYwzXiUIWiJ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
True Gold Dance 7A+ish, Gold Dance Boulders, Strathconon
The king line of Easter Ross choss. A bit of a filler, but actually the most logical way up a proper feature. Back in 2018 I did the original problem Gold Dance which squeezes between the obvious arete and a crack and starts sitting in between them on a wee boulder. As soon as I did that I realised the true line was to start sitting on the ground to the right, directly beneath the arete, but it was a fair bit harder. Ted Collins came along and climbed the arete direct without the crack to give True Gold, but that's actually an eliminate (all be at a very aesthetic one) because it avoids the Gold Dance crack which is within reach. So one cold night in January I took out the lamps and managed to link Ted's start into Gold Dance to give the logical line.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CY9JrQXoGPh/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
The Missing Lynx 6C+ish, Aspen Terrace, Strathconon
Summer in the Highlands is often pretty shit for bouldering. It's warm and humid, there are midges and ticks and there is loads of tall, wet bracken crowding round the bottom of crags and boulders. Rather than get frustrated trying to climb its a good time of year to get out the cleaning kit and scrub new problems that will be in good nick in the autumn or winter when the midges, bracken and ticks have all fucked off. This was the best (so far) of a handful I unearthed from this cool wall, and the ascent itself was made all the more memorable by dragging my kids up there with me and making a real mini adventure out of it.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjyRqUdDzU4/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Best established trad routes
Ossuary E5 6b, Reiff in the Woods
I don't think I've ever had a day out like this one before, when from the outset both Murdoch and I agreed we'd be headpointing. I was keen to do this route of Ian Taylor's, having looked across the loch at it from the boulders for years. A crack up the middle of the face of a giant block, guarded by small roovesbelow - safe but a bit of spaced gear and hard enough to feel justified in trying on a rope first. And the view from the belay above, looking over to Stac Pollaidh, is pretty special. Suffice to say, Murdoch onsighted it years ago and was headpointing harder things that day.
The Crank VS 5a, Ramshaw
Back in my trad days I always shied away from cracks and jamming, always being tempted more towards delicate slabs and open faces. I always knew it was a weakness and a new route I wanted to try (see below) meant I was keen to change my ways. On a hot day in August my very patient (non-climbing) wife offered to give me a belay while down in Stafford with the in-laws and Ramshaw was the obvious place. I don't think I've ever tried so hard on a VS, but it was nice to see that the work I'd put into learning how to jam had paid off.
Best new trad route
Katie Morag E3 6b (ish), Camas an Leim, Shieldaig
Bonjoy tipped me off to this one, a short fierce crack through a roof into a groove on a small crag on a beautiful beach in one of my favourite parts of the world. I gave it a clean and checked it from a rope and realised it was very safe but had a pretty hard sequence turning the lip and getting established in the groove - particularly tricky as I've always been shit at jamming. I tried it by myself over a few sessions but found it almost impossible to work the section under the roof (need to improve my ropework skills) and eventually realised I just needed to come with a belayer and try it from the ground - easier said than done as I don't know many folk that would be willing to essentially give up a day just to belay me. In the mean time I built some cracks on my board and watched some Wideboyz videos. Andy E of this parish kindly came out one day and after a lob on the first attempt I got up it 2nd go. The things dreams are made of.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CdT3qNtjHla/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Great effort as usual on the continued Strathconon and Torridon developments ;D
I love the sound of the Keystone Prow, just my kind of thing. Massive journey to the middle of nowhere for a single line that might go if you get yer tide times right. Love it :2thumbsup:
Have a good new year and look forward to more Easter Ross Choss in 2023 :icon_beerchug:
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. A 5 hour round trip for one problem. Is that the definition of madness?
I mean a UK based forum member had a project in Oregon, so I think you’re good 😄
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make friends with some horses that come by
Not just any horses, Carneddau ponies!
Another glass raised to the greatness of Paul O'Grady, one of the best.
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Top 5 boulder problems UK
Appliance Friction (Stanton) – One of those perfect grit slabs which require you to have faith and reasonable technique to get up. Topping out reminded me how fun climbing can be. I see it also quite rightly features in Grit Blocs due to its quality.
Seventy-Two (Cratcliffe) – Despite having been to Cratcliffe and RHS countless times over the years I had never looked at this block. After seeing the harder 74 in a Wedge video it gave me to the idea to seek it out. Did it on a nice spring afternoon where the end of the grit season felt near due to the warmth and it was satisfying having to dig in feeling a little tired and wobble over the top.
Only God Forgives (Pont Gethin) – This stands out as being one of the most interesting locations for a boulder problem that I have climbed. It looks terrifying from the guidebook photo looking like you fall into a white-water river if you come off. The reality is a lot more pleasant as the platform above the river is plenty big enough. The line is a rising traverse with just enough height at its top out to make you think and climb carefully. I climbed this on a very hot day in August where most of the day was spent paddling in the river and hiding from the sun. I also had a nice chat with some walkers whilst trying to find Parc Jwrasig.
Spiderpig (Craig Nant y Fedw) – Another warm day in Wales which was the reason for seeking this out as I knew it would be in the shade. I rarely manage to do tricky slabs so was pleased to work this one out. The block is in a beautiful and peaceful location with view across to Snowdonia and has a nice short walk in.
Ultimate Warrior (Cwm Pennant) – One of those problems I had wanted to do for years after seeing a video of Doyle’s a long time ago with various wads doing it and being attracted to how pure the line looked. Got to the crag a little apprehensive about the landing at first (solo mission) but managed to sort out the stand relatively quicky. I then took several hours to work out and do the sit start. This is a three star problem and it was a nice confidence boost to get it done.
Top spankings
Cash For Grades (Pont Gethin) – Excuses: it is a small hold/a long way/it was hot!
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This thread really is the best, so good to read.
I've butchered the categories a bit... and added some pics and vids too.
Top 3 Grit
- Three More Reps, Ilkley; I probably spent more time at Ilkley than anywhere else this year, and it was great to finally get on both this and Bernie the Bolt, having wondered for years how they climbed but never seeing anyone putting the time in. Both are fully deserving of classic status in my view but TMR is the better line and has such classy movement.
- George's Roof, Goldsborough Carr; enjoyed my first visits to Goldsborough this year. It's a stunning, out of the way venue, seemingly in the middle of nowhere and yet really quite accessible from Leeds (I went after work!). George's is maybe the best line there too, and it's just good fun smashing about between decent holds. Very close on the flash but had to settle for second go.
- Chariots of Fire Eliminate, Ilkley; another under the radar one! Something of a theme. Obviously not the best line etc. but a brilliant, involved sequence and truly sustained roof climbing on gritstone is such a rarity I'll take it. Satisfying to do on the same day as Calf Traverse and having previously injured myself on it by heel-hooking my finger :slap:
Top 5 Lime
- Under the Weather, Windy Knoll; I had roughly weekly sessions at Windy Knoll over late summer, enjoying the quiet shady climbing. Met some lovely people and managed to tick the crag, with this being the final one to go and hardest there. Kind of a shame that people seem to have spoilt the sequence by shuffling over to the right but the way I did it is a brilliant bit of compression climbing and up there in difficulty with plenty of other similar 7C+ problems.
- Sheep Shifter, Cave Dale; another nice little spot tucked away from the major venues, and a great sequence. Exactly what I want from limestone bouldering. Actually doing it was a great example of how weird climbing can be; first go I tried really hard, power screamed at least twice, fumbled a couple of holds and then fell off the last hard move. Next go it felt completely trivial.
- Young, Gifted and Black, Blackwell Dale; on the comeback from injury this was a nice marker in my ability to pull somewhat hard again. A good line on great rock (for UK lime).
- Midnight Caller, Earth Quarry; if only all mag lime was as good as this in terms of rock quality. Salvaged a day out having been to two different horribly condensed venues earlier with Droyd. Shame it is so well used by the local miscreants as well, as Earth Quarry is otherwise a pretty nice spot with great views, completely different to most Eastern Lime venues and quite a surprise.
- The Ramp, Biblins Cave; managed to sneak in a session whilst on a family holiday nearby. Really impressed with the whole venue, and was very pleased to soak up all the beta and psyche from a big group of Bristolian climbers and then despatch on the flash. Also preceeded coming down with covid for the rest of the week so was incredibly glad to have insisted on getting my session in when I did!
Top 5 Other
- Moria, Rhiw Goch; the best line at the crag, and part of a simply brilliant day (see below). Steep climbing on small holds in tight boxes is not my bag at all so I was really pleased to turn on some try hard and knock it off third go.
- Lucid Interval, Forest Rock; wife and daughter away for the weekend but things were looking wet everywhere. Decided spur of the moment to go to Forest Rock with the lamps on the Friday evening, on the back of a positive dryness report, and it paid off; rained the whole way there and most of the time I was climbing! So I was already winning before I managed to do this in a session. Steep compression climbing so it's my kind of thing but the holds get small at the top. Maybe the best line there? Keen for the sitter ASAP!
- The Burbs / Sherpa Tensing, Black Valley, Ireland; two simply perfect board style problems in a stunning place, on incredible rock, on a beautiful day.
- Nameless Arete, Ring of Kerry, Ireland; a simply perfect board style problem in a stunning place, on incredible rock. No I've not just accidentally copy/pasted...! A far less pleasant experience on this than The Burbs (see below spankings) but glad to have stuck it out just long enough!
https://vimeo.com/785383532
- Extraction Terrestre, Rocher des Souris, Fontainebleau; having picked up a wrist injury bad enough to completely prevent me from even hanging from a fingerboard, just a week prior to going to Font, expectations were not high! However five straight days of (easy) climbing later I was walking in to 95.2 and spotted this off the path, as I have many times before, and finally decided to check it out. Classic Font compression problem.
Honourable mention to Marcel's Problem, Gap of Dunloe, Ireland. Not the most amazing movement, but probably the most picturesque problem I did this year.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm1NGLSNRCG/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Top 5 FAs
- The Golden Shot, Ilkley; I've already said loads on this. A great experience from start to finish, but particularly in my learning the value of trying something, going away and training specifically for it, and then getting it done quickly when you go back. I've always just banged my head against things in the past whilst training in a very general way, but I'm a complete convert to the specific approach now. Capped off a great year with lots of time spent at Ilkley, really cool to add something to the place, and it's just such good climbing!
https://vimeo.com/756954386
- A Drop in the Ocean / The Ocean in a Drop, Derrylea, Ireland; one of those boulders I drove past on the way into the Black Valley and simply had to stop at. Turned out the great looking arete was unclimbed on either side! Both sequences turned out to be excellent, on superb rock.
https://vimeo.com/785382951
- Blowing a Gale, Windy Knoll; nice to catch the final stage of development / excessive overconsumption here with this one, mainly so I could use the name! An obvious link (with some minor blinkers on) and good movement, taking in most of what makes Under the Weather so much fun.
- Fadhb ar Bith Direct, Derrylea, Ireland; and another boulder I couldn't drive past without stopping and climbing. One of those where it just took fresh eyes to find the solution to the arete, and the direct start added a quality extra big move to the stand.
https://vimeo.com/785384015
Top Days Out
- North Wales weekend in March; oh man, it doesn't get any better. Full weekend away on my own. Low single figures air temps, warm sunshine, low humidity. Went to 3 different venues, saw old friends, climbed everything I tried including 5 problems 7A to 7B+. Then did it all again on the Sunday! Incredible stuff, so lucky.
- First day out in Ireland; my wife has family in Co. Kerry, and every time we've visited I've looked longingly at the climbing in the area without ever making the time to actually sample it. I was so excited to finally get the chance I almost crashed my car driving out! And then again eyeballing all the rock visible from the road into the Black Valley. Ended up getting to the area with The Burbs, where I'd intended to go, something like 3hrs later than planned, having stopped and climbed at two different areas on the way.
- Windy Knoll / Llyn Coedty; had the weekend to go away and climb. I wanted to meet some friends at Windy and finish off Under the Weather, and then head over to Wales to sample the Llyn Coedty boulder. I want certainly doesn't always get, but that day I just about managed to squeeze it over the line, doing Under the Weather on my third (and definitely last) go, having come off on the last move on my second. I then headed over to Wales and in the evening did the stand start to Aravius, which is a brilliant problem and would be on my 'other' list above if I'd managed the sit as well. Capped off by a relaxing evening wild camping on my lonesome, didn't see another soul for 24hrs, which sometimes is just how I like it.
- Ilkley with Turnbull, 36C, Louise and Footwork; that said, big team days are really flipping good as well and this was great fun, climbing, cheering, spotting, heckling, etc. I was very glad not to let the side down by doing Three More Reps on a definite last go best go.
Top Spankings
- Source of Secrets; spanked in every conceivable way on this. I literally punched myself in the face coming off it once. Close ish (two halves) first session in January but tweaked my hamstring while trying it. Back a bit later to find it condensed. Next time close again but picked up aforementioned wrist injury on it. Then back in September and couldn't even do the crux let alone link it! Seemingly impossible to find fully dry and a nightmare to do on your own (for my taste anyway). Frustrating given I'm just tall enough to do it, otherwise it'd be easy to write off. Will have to go back at some point.
- Bonjoy's grading; there's a point at which modesty can be taken too far!
- Jelly of the Beast; yet another often wet limestone roof. At least this one is close to the road and not particularly morpho. Dropped the last hard move a couple of times but could also never quite get the second half completely reliable, no matter how steady the crux move felt.
- Irish midges; holy shit they were bad! Doing the Nameless Arete mentioned above I ended up holding my portable fan in front of my face to blow them away between goes, resulting in a pile of dead midges beneath it as they flew in and were killed by the blades! After managing the arete I bailed to a different spot where they were even worse, and was so keen to run away I lost my footing and fell literally waist deep into a bog. Bad day to have left my midge hood at home.
- Everything at Tremeirchion; a crag seemingly dedicated to hard gastons / shouldery moves! Utterly spanked by everything. Keen to return having put a lot of time into my shoulder strength in the second half of 2022.
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Best sport climbing, domestic.
I wasn't sure I actually ticked any sport climbs in France this year, so I checked my scorecard. That was how memorable the routes I did were. I did not climb a whole lot during spring, then it was 40 million degrees for half a year during which I was also out with covid for a spell, and then I spent three months trying a route I did not do. My project is good and challenging. What I will mostly remember from this year's sport climbing is the scenes at the crag; a small but very dedicated group of people trying various routes with good cheer. Some major breakthroughs as well, the first of the grade for some and the first ascent of the hardest route in the region for others.
Best sport climbing, abroad
We went to Kalymnos a bit too early in the season. The Sikati cave, which does not have that many route but was by far the best sector that we visited, was still damp — but could be climbed during windy sunny days when the outer layer dried. Of course, this risks pulling off holds and should likely be best avoided. I felt that as there were so many jugs everywhere a few would not go amiss. The best of the bunch was
Fun de Chichunne (8a). I saved this route until the end of the trip as it is was obvious that you cannot find a more onsight friendly eight in the western hemisphere. A pure fitness test in a roof. The route has to be close to 40 m long and is likely more than 45 degree overhanging. I had cracked a rib earlier in the trip and this was the first truly steep climb I did post injury, so aided by a mixture of paracetamol and ibuprofen and my friend who had climbed up to the crux to check if was dry enough to do while I was basking in the sun I could set off for something that I knew was challenging but feasible. I had to dig fairly deep though, skipping a clip on a particularly challenging section, i.e. a section where I did several moves in a row on holds that were just good but not enormous jugs. The moves came together really well and my friend who lives on the island and know the route well said that I did all the sections with good sequences. Obviously an enormous gift at the grade, but as a challenge it was the right level at the right day. After 45 minutes of shaking out on jugs I had to stop climbing for the day, and skipped doing any climbing on the next day, or last of the trip. Clearly harder than Aegelis and a bit harder than Zwaniful syndicate, also in the cave. Those two are mentioned because they are absolutely must dos.
Chicunne/chacun let's call the whole thing off.
Estratoférica (7c, but 7c+... surely?). We went to Siurana in December to learn how to crimp again after having spent the autumn desperately clinging on to tufas. I had to do dog the first two bolts of Estratoférica for warm-up since my other half was absolutely furious at not finding a sequence that fitted her size, so after having figured out four different sequences to choose from for the start boulder an onsight attempt was out of the question even for someone with as relaxed ethics as me. I found this challenging enough on the redpoint. Brilliant first half with power endurance on flat edges and an even more amazing easier second part on juggy pockets with a classic Siurana runout for the belay. Just great.
I also recommend the nearby El ploramiques (8a) which has some similar climbing but just a tiny bit harder. Why Memoria de una sepia is the popular 8a on the sector instead of El ploramiques is a bit of a mystery.
Best long route and best trad route
RACS (ED+ 7a+). The Astroman of the Pyrenees is a much storied route from the absolutely legend that is Jesús Gálvez, and is an amazing day out for anyone who has a bit of grade in hand. I have written extensively on this in another place, with a topo and pics and everything so here is a link http://steepground.blogspot.com/2022/05/racs-ordesa.html
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Super minimalist list…
Top three boulder problems at home (France) are also the only problems I did this year;
Two easy unmemorables at Orlu, Ariege and what I thought was a direct (eliminate ) of Phantom Lord at Targassonne seems to have been accepted as a FA, Phantom Queen touted as 8A by the second ascentionist. So a bit of a YYFY.
Many spankings on many projects, culminating yesterday in maybe a bouldering first… I pulled of a flake which followed me to the ground in an explosion of dust and rock granules some of which I swallowed!
Aims for next year is to be more prolific, which should be easier to achieve.
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Great reading all the posts so far - thanks for the psyche everyone.
Top four boulder problems, UK
- The Nadser (7b), Kyloe-in Northumberland. After spending quite a long time looking at the destruction from last year’s storms, I realised that this wall was completely dry - the first time I’d evver seen it that way. Techy, tick-tac moves, and well suited to the kind of challenge I was up for on the day.
- The green chapel (7a), Stanton-in-the-Woods. It’s a hanging arete. I bloody love hanging aretes. Aretes are the best kind of feature, and if they’re hanging they’re even better. The end of an already long and tiring session, arms wilting, barely able to do the hard bit then when I did, I still had to do the scary bit! Fortuitously I didn’t have enough energy to panic, so with fatigue providing a false appearance of composure stood on the smears and topped out. A great end to a day full of banter and laughs.
- Smiling moon (7a+), Froggatt. It astonishes me that JonBoy continues to find virgin features this nice. A really beautiful feature, even if it isn’t a hanging arete. Another one which I managed to grasp from the jaws of defeat when I was already exhausted and ready for home!
Top four (but kinda 40) trad routes
- Quark / High Noon, (both E4/5 depending who you believe), Caley. Gone for a cheeky double entry, because I’m not really going to be able to choose between them (and it was on the same day!). High Noon - the best line on grit (did someone say HANGING ARETE?) Easy to hang underneath the crux, and easy to stand in balance above it, but moving between those two positions feels like you’re in a Johnny Dawes metaphor; made all the better that you can’t see the gear, evvevn though you know it isn’t that far away. Quark: less scary but harder, technical, slappy, climbing up another HANGING ARETE.
- Cain (E4), Pordenack Point Cornwall. Booming seas, breezy sunny hard granite, steep with good holds, and unusually for Cornwall, not a sandbag. Magic.
- Swordfish (E3), Stackpole Pembroke. Even though I seconded it, this was the highlight of a week in Pembroke spent with an old mate. Steep traversing then technical (and, somehow, still steep!) groove climbing up a stunning feature (not a hanging arete, but grooves basically have hanging aretes on both sides, right?). We did a plethora of other great routes: Pan, Heaven’s Door, White Women, Pan, Jabberwock...) but I thought Swordfish was really something special.
- Stanage 1989 guidebook VS challenge (36 routes). Done on a bit of a whim, on a day which turned out to be much hotter than forecast. I was averaging 5 minutes per route until some congestion slowed me down, never before have I felt more like Hans Florine. Highlights included Hell Crack (how come I hadn't done this before? Oh yeah, it looks hard and is called “Hell Crack”), joyously campussing Cleft Buttress once I'd worked out how to do the lean across in a controlled manner, getting Fern Crack over and done with as I was nervous about that one, and having all of the crag north of High Neb to myself with just the ring ouzels and cotton grass for company. Low lights included the heat, the incandescent glare of the sun, how hot I was, the pain from hot swollen feet, dehydration, and the heat.
Top one sport route
- The squealer (7c), Lorry Park Quarry. A finger injury in May basically precluded any serious sport climbing for me this year, and so I thought I might miss my chance to ever climb this once they started building a housing estate at the base of the crag. Serendipitously, my finger recovered enough to try it in the early stages of building, when no one else seemed to be going to the crag but you could still sneak round the back to access the crag on evenings and weekends when building work was not underway. We had a couple of lovely sessions with the whole place to ourselves. Technical sequences, a fair old test of crimping for the recovering finger, and so much longer and pumpier than the usual Peak fare.
Top DWS trip
- Three routes, but all at the same crag on the same weekend, so grouped together to avoid repetition: Crab Party, Octopus Weed, Under-bare (all on Portland). DWS is just hedonism on rocks. We went the weekend before the proper heat-wave, so conditions were basically perfect (warm, dry, and a low-humidity on-short breeze to dry out the caves). My girlfriend hadn’t really done any DWS before so we had a great time with her figuring out what height above the ocean she was comfortable with and me heckling her to go higher.
Three most memorable cracks
- Goliath (E4), Burbage South. I first tried this on a top rope with TRandall in about 2009 so I could learn some off-width technique from him. I only got about 50cm off the floor and he had (jokingly, I think) made one anchor for the belay out of heather so it pulled out when I fell off. It was a weird day. This year, knowing a bit more about this particular art, I thought it would be okay. It wasn’t. As with most off-widths, it was a protracted battle of attrition, but on my third go the crack gave up its resolve before I did. There are no winners in offwidth climbing.
- George’s crack (athletic f6c), Ogwen. Done with Fiend, which always makes it memorable. Such a good inverted grovel. Probably about as pure as wide pony gets in the UK I’d imagine.
- The Dover & Ellis Chimney (E1), Burbage South Quarries. A wildcard entry to the list. It’s a bit shit, and was so overgrown with grass and turf that it felt like I was crawling through a field at times. I only really did it so I could sandbag some mates who were meant to be joining us at the crag by getting them to do it too, but then they both bailed on us leaving me covered in cobwebs and detritus and them happily at drinking tea at home. Ticks the ‘memorable’ box for me though, and I did make one of them do it a couple of weeks later.
Top one new routes put up
- Prawn the Crustacean (E3), Kinder North. Only one this year. Nice moves, bit short lived, gave it a silly name so it rhymes with its neighbour.
Top spankings
- Marrowfat (7a), Froggatt. Three sessions in. Still can’t do one of the moves.
- Sean’s arete (7b), Curbar. Three sessions in. I’ve had my hand on the finishing hold about a dozen times.
- Circular Saw (E2), Kinder. An E2 offwidth on the most pebbly Kinder grit. Like dipping your ankles and arms in acid then using a pummice stone. It’s only 5 metres high and I’ve still got the top 2 metres to figure out. One for next year!
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Great thread as always.
A pretty good year for me, nothing really hard but plenty of quality climbing at home and abroad.
Top three sport routes UK
Grand Canyon 7b+, Devils Gorge. Number 2 on the list of 7b+s I really should have done before. Steep, sustained with some amazing holds, total classic which more than makes up for the sometimes frustrating nature of climbing in the gorge
Lost in Thought and Time 7b+, Victoria Cave, Attermire. Number 3 on the list. Went up to Victoria after manic busy scenes at Gordale the week before and enjoyed this lovely spot to ourselves except for the odd tourist. Failed on this last year , this time got the gear in after warming up and on the redpoint managed to access some try hard and get through the crux on the upper wall and then hold it together for the finish. Great long route with a Gordale feel minus the crowds.
Fiendish Beandish, 7a+, Noticeboard Crag. Duplicate with Andy M (thanks for the long draw on 2nd bolt beta on UKC :)). Boiling hot day in August we opted for cooler conditions on the North Wales coast and this was a great choice of crag. Excellent climbing on unusual but solid rock with airy but safe bolting in its main section.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
La Danza del Maestrale 7a, Ulassai. Family trip to Sardinia in June. Bit hot for climbing but impressed by the area, nice town, lovely scenery and a great variety of crags mostly in walking distance. This was probably the best route of week, techy start followed by 20m of excellent overhanging wall climbing, was happy to onsight it smoothly.
Un Dia Llamado Milagro 7c Chulilla. First time in Chulilla and really liked it. 2nd day looking for something harder to try Amy persuaded me to get on this 38m 7c which had the gear in it. Went up bolt to bolt and worked the sequences pretty quickly so decided to go for a redpoint. Worked my way up milking the rests , did the upper crux pretty smoothly and held it together through the sustained fingery climbing to the belay. Brilliant route and as quick as I've ever done a 7c. And Ant didn't onsight it which was nice of him 😃.
Daños Colaterales 7b+, Chulilla. Great route with with lovely tufas in its upper section and the redpoint crux where it should be right at the top. End of third day on and had to try really hard!
Top spankings
[As ever lots of options (Devils Haircut at the Gorge, Yew Cogar in general during August) but the standout was No, 4 on the 7b+ list Brachiation Dance. Made the mistake of going in the morning on a very hot day only to find it was in the sun but to be honest I was miles away from it. Too steep, too physical, think this may be on the list of 7b+s I haven't done for very obvious reasons! [/li][/list]
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Top Boulder problems
Jocks n Geordies, Kyloe in (6C)
I dropped the top moves of this repeatedly in 2018. I've never managed to get up anything at this crag previously, but managed to get up the warmups like badfinger, before getting up this in a handful of goes. Exciting and techy moves, all in question untill it is done. Felt like I was climbing much better than 4 years ago, which is nice!
Prime Time, back bowden 7B?
Cool moves requiring full commitment, steep enough to make you feel like a wad. Good bunch of people working it and the thing next door. I didn't think I had a chance, but managed the sit too! Last day of a great trip to the county. The bouldering up there is phenomenal.
Patient Boots, Ilkley 7A?
A no star traverse which required me to try proper hard. The rock on the straight up is amazing, but I didn't get it. Enjoyed working this.
Black wall traverse at almsclif was also a big tick this year, as I managed to get it dry and not in full sun. Got through the crux and my phone started going off for a fell rescue shout. Decided to power through, ticked the problem, packed up and legged it to the car. Been on the list for donkeys.
Top Routes
Oedipus, stony bank 7a
Had to try hard on this, and fancied it for a while. Had someone keen to get on it, and redpointed it quickly. Very satisfying! The bit that looks like a rest isn't... Had a go on Jocasta just next door, the rock is stellar, but the moves are a bit harder. One for the new year perhaps....
Priority, twistleton VS
Nice climbing and exciting for the (VS) grade. Twistleton is a lovely spot, and had decent company for it (except when one of em threw rocks at my head!)
Wombling wall, baildon E4?
In here for the expereince rather than the actual quality of the climbing... Cool moves up a crack lead to a ledge and sandy bridging or arete climbing to a peg, a crux and then a romp to the top. I enjoyed getting it absolutely wired on shunt, and then cruising the lead with confidence. Headpointing all the time gets dull for me, but I do love when it all comes together.
Spankings
First of a dieing breed, Ilkley back quarry E4
A mates route. He never bouldered that hard I thought... It feels desperate! Some tricky arete climbing leads to a break and gear, followed by a poor pocket, a poorer pocket and a throw out left. I could hardly hand the poor pocket!!! Frustration at first, but actually, it will make a good bench mark for my finger strength. I put stakes in and everything! If anyone local fancies another look this year let me know and I can embarass myself on it again...
La Grande Marche, Canche aux mercier 7A
Spent most of the trip wombling round circuits in the heat. Tried a couple of harder things, and this, thuggy, crack. Should be my style, but I just didn't have it in me. Even Will did it. Next time....
Earwig sit, Ilkley (7A/8A)
The local nemesis. The stand start is great. The sit, I find so. Hard. There is no obvious beta. The ground is wearing away year on year. It is in the horid tourist bit of Ilkley. If anyone has ANY beta for this, I would love to know. I felt like I got close a year or 2 ago, but it has been reverse progress since. I've tried to use some shit flakey crimps and pulled them off. I've tried using a nails shallow middle finger mono, and got nowhere.
It is great to be humbled my such an unassuming looking problem. Come on, one of you has got to have done this...
I'd do a top cave trips, but I don't think anyone on here would care ;D
Not an amazing year for dream lines by any stretch, but nice to get out and about.
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A bit of a low-key year for me - nothing done from the upper echelons of my wish list. Still, I had lots of short trips and did some nice problems. As it was yet another year of no route climbing and no trips abroad, I'm taking a bit of a liberty and having a:
Top Arbitrary Number of UK Boulder Problems
Kingdom of Rain, Sheep Pen
...or really any of the problems I did that day (e.g. Toe Dragon, Klem's Bulge, Dog Shooter). Mainly it's here because of the overall impression the day had on me - contentedness with the scenery, the rock, the pleasant conditions (the uphill location makes it feel nicely less roadside than it really is). The first day of the year that I felt like I was climbing well and might be over the previous year's broken wrist and a general winter hangover. Sadly the follow-up day, to try a few link-ups, was a bit less to my taste (a crew of 20+ people arrived, playing music etc. - not really my scene!).
Aurora - Great Roova
Again, nice problem as it is, it's more about the day as a whole - feeling pleased with having made the effort to go there, rather than my usual haunts, and satisfaction with ticking off the problem I most wanted to do.
Strong Arete - Eskdale Fisherground
First day of a trip to the Lakes - a quick session on the way to the accommodation. Happy to get this - not my style (bunched, burly, a bit snatchy) and it was a bit hot and sunny for even my ectothermic metabolism - great feeling of relief getting established and getting the arete holds.
Fast Cars and Camper Vans / Lone Crusader - Carrock Fell
Two problems-worth of satisfyingly sideways action. Such a wet night and morning that I felt I was wasting my time even trying to get out, but a breeze picked up and after a bit of yomping around I was well rewarded (although the finish to LC felt a bit too "interesting" for comfort). On another trip, Orison was also a good rainy day find - even if the finish was a bit of a pant-filler, on my own with one slightly misplaced pad!
Debaser LH - Warton
What's better than an arete? An arete combined with a low traverse! Not really any harder than the normal sit start - all still about that heart-in-mouth move for the finishing jug.
Chiggers with Attitude - Lees Bottom
A limestone crag with painful and glued holds! Sign me up! I was on my 4th consecutive day of bouldering and felt like I was off with every move - really satisfying - sustained, burly moves.
Left Wall Traverse - Parisella's Cave
Biggest surprise of a trip to North Wales - I was only at the crag as everywhere else was wet, and I only tried the problem as I was too weak to do any of the F6 "warm-ups". I thought working one of the subsections might be a pleasant way to waste a day and to my amazement found it pretty amenable - and with some really cool moves.
Panty's Down - Devil's Gorge
Climb into and then out of a hole.... bouldering, it's a funny hobby really.
Red Devil / White Rabbit SS / Dawid's Problem - Nearcliff
I spent far too much time here - lured by limestone crimps and pockets and shower-proof if generally humid conditions. Not the loveliest of venues, although it can be rather nice sitting in the dappled shade during the intervals with no noise from motocross bikes - looking out for squirrels and tree-creepers etc. Whatever you make of the ambience, the crag, and the Hueco Wall in particular, has some really good moves on largely skin friendly rock (although the starting pocket of Red Devil bites).
Spankings, or more properly, unfinished business (I never fail, I just run out of time!
Pill Box Wall - despite expecting this to be very much my type of problem, I spent an entire session slipping off the same move.
Once Upon a Time in the West, Seathwaite - failed for hours, got back within 4G coverage, consulted Youtube and found I'd been trying a completely wrong sequence.
White Rabbit RH SS - multiple tries where I did the crux (which is the same as the "normal" variants I' already done) and then suffered a brain fart and forgot what to do. A bizarre late season loss of form, and then a 2-3 week lay off with a gashed wrist from a workplace accident, put paid to finishing it off.
Crag X - absolutely everything but mainly Jericho Road.
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Another cracking thread, nice one folks.
Interesting year for me, climbing took a bit of a back seat for 4 or so months during the summer/Autumn as I focussed on fell running/ultra running. Quite refreshing to do something different for period of time and still be able to return to form after a month or so. Lots of lessons learnt, but running 70km+ a week with lots of elevation is not very compatible with bouldering!!
Top 5 UK Boulders
Eagle Huntress Sit 8B, Mardale Head: Amazing new one from Varian. Slightly gutted I didn’t actually spend a bit more time on this when it was a project but to be honest I probably didn't have the vision to be able to do it.
Trailer Trash 7C+, St Bees- Truth be told, I am not a massive fan of St.Bees but this had been on the list for years and its actually very good (if you can find it dry)
Krafty, 7C+, Earl Crag- In plain sight at one of the most travelled Yorkshire crags, up there with one of the best at the grade!
The non conformist 7B, Vicarage Crag- on a family holiday, met up with the Don! What a feature and climbs really well on some amazing holds. Was very enjoyable and worth the trek.
XXXR/XXXS- 8A/8B, Bowderstone- Never thought I would climb this section of rock. Very cool 3D moves, another great addition by Aidan/Varian.
Top 5 Boulders abroad
Atresie 8A, Fontainebleau- First proper bouldering trip with the family which worked out really well helped by lovely weather. Nice to finish off the big 5
Sol Invictus, 8A, Fontainebleau- Lovely boulder with a little bit fear factor thrown in
Freehug 8A, Fontainebleau- brilliant compression boulder
Steppenwolf 8B, Magic Wood- didn’t actually plan on going to MW but it was super hot elsewhere in Ticino.
Nana Bianca 8A+, Magic Wood- always wanted to do this one ever since I first went 11 or so years ago. It was an enjoyable trip but doubt I will go back to MW anytime soon, lost its soul.
Top 3 FA’s
HYFR 8A+, Hell Moss- a direct version of Hell hath no fury. I set a board replica, did it in two goes and then did this the following day. Safe to say the replica had no influence on me doing it!
Knife at the party 8B+, Bowderstone- not really an FA as its essentially a non eliminate version of Aidans Flip off at the Opera, defo the hardest bit of climbing I did all year and something I had tried on and off for a while.
Behind the curtain 7C+, Bowderstone boulders- about 50m away from the Bowderstone, pretty fun and good vision by Kris Hall.
Sport climbing
The Blocky rock to ruin, Runestone Quarry 7C, while to was fun climbing, it did feel like a fridge sized boulder could come off. Terrifying.
Trad Climbing
Nowt- next year though!
Other stuff
Running- did lots of running in the lakes including some great miles with Joble. Had a half arsed, ill thought through attempted at BGR. 28 degrees and thunderstorms is not a good idea. Did do the Tea Round the weekend after which was fun (except for the 1hr of cramp up and down Grisedale).
Family- Second child arrived in May, had some amazing times as a family.
Work- Completed a significant project I had been working on for a couple of years, probably one of the first examples of successful ecosystem services market utilising green finance. Now working on and developing 7 or so more around UK. Hopefully this will play a small part in significantly accelerating investment into to nature recovery in the UK.
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Best Established Boulder Problem
The Essence 7B+, Glen Torridon
Got my left heel on the bulb on the left arete and camped out on it till the snow started, then I hid under the boulder watching the TV static where Liathach used to be. Next time up there, having come to terms with the reality that I’m not Inspector Gadget, I got my heel off that bulb and kept on climbing for the thank god nipple below the jug.
Best New Boulder Problem
Matador 7A+ish, Liathach
Bulging highball arete round the north side. Walk up to the fork for Coire Mhic Nobuil / Coire Mhich Fhearchair. Take the Coire Mhic Nobuil path for about 200 metres, then go straight up the hill at the west end of the lochan. Aim for the round craggy feature. Boulder is under the west side of that, but not quite visible from the path. Steep lower section with varied moves, crux going round the lip slightly too high for comfort, then get your trad head on and steady away up the steep slab. Doesn’t really climb like an arete, mostly you're climbing the crack just right of it. Climbed it from a standing start, sitter first on the agenda in the Spring. Walking out with two mats on my back reminded me why I don’t usually take a mat bouldering in the mountains.
Best Munros with the Kids
My sons did their first Munros this year. Slioch first after being foiled by low cloud in November last year, then Beinn Alligin, then Beinn Fhada above Morvich with my eldest son. Fantastic days out. Felt good getting Beinn Alligin done after high winds turned me and one of my school teachers back from the top of Coire nan Laogh in 1993. I’ll be eternally grateful to him for taking me on a road trip round the North West that summer which switched me on to messing about on rocks in the mountains, having spent my childhood climbing trees.
Boulder Hunting Top Three
Big boulder above Talladale on Loch Maree. Flat wall, about 8 metres high, 10 degrees overhanging. Wandered around a small part of the A Choineach Beag terraces with the family one afternoon in the Spring. Went all the way up till we could see over to Beinn an Eoin and Baos Bheinn. Nothing. Sigh. Turned to walk back by a slightly different route that soon found us above a low cliff. Looked over it and — aha!
Roof / rising lip traverse in the boulder jumble under Robertson’s Buttress on Sgorr Ruadh, Coire Lair.
Roof on the underside of a boulder that looks like a frog out on the moor behind Beinn Dearg. What a lovely place. Looking forward to spending more time there, both under this roof and elsewhere on the moor.
Top Spanking
Long Covid wiping out six months of climbing / training from May onwards.
Last But Not Least...
Built a new board, 10 years after my first board got skipped. Bigger. Steeper. Better. Mwahahahhaha!!!
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Thanks to everyone for posting in this thread as ever. It’s so inspiring and I’m always amazed at how hard everyone climbs and how much they get done!
It’s been an eventful year for me. Last winter was meant to be the one in which I decisively reinforced my legs via a pretty un-nuanced training regime. That resulted in a quad tear right at the end of 2021 :o but I managed to rehab and train around that, partly inspired by my other half’s running efforts which had her in the form of her life in mid-February and with loads of races lined up. Unfortunately she was then knocked over by someone’s unleashed labrador (it was obliviously chasing a tennis ball, hopefully food for thought for the “he’s just playing, he won’t hurt you” massive) and suffered a Schatzker type VI tibia fracture which put her in a huge Ilizarov frame for months that she had to regularly crank with spanners :sick: to try and get her leg to heal into a functional state. We both know what it feels like to be given the “don’t get your hopes up about walking normally again” talk now :'( .
I’d rebooked the flights for my US trip for the summer but with the pandemic and my parents (both are terminally ill and housebound- for years I’ve been in a kind of day-to-day limbo where either might check out without warning) I didn’t really believe the trip would actually happen. Amazingly Rache made such good progress that her frame was taken off a month early and like Cinderella (or more prosaically csl going to Norway when his wife was 8 months pregnant) I was able to go to the ball. It only felt real a few hours before I left for the airport :bounce: .
The trip was not only fun but the combination of the altitude, the walk-ins, the nature and volume of the climbing and wanting to not get shown up by my American mates (worked out perfectly as we only did big trad routes which meant our strengths and weaknesses were balanced out) made it a perfect “boot camp” for all sorts of stuff I still needed to sort out, mentally and physically, with my climbing. I feel like I refound a lot of the old Mike over there and while I haven’t done anything particularly Earth-shattering since I got back, nothing’s gone wrong either- in fact many the fitness gains I made have only become clear when tested on home turf. Most importantly my other half’s rehab is still going beyond all predictions and she’s running again and working on on increasing her distance.
Anyway, here’s my usual tales of trad bumbling, bathetically wrought into epic parables of endeavour.
Top 5 trad routes, UK
Chequers Crack, HVS 5b, Froggatt
This isn’t the hardest graded route I climbed this year, it’s not really a particularly good route and I didn’t do it first go either but it is the hardest thing I successfully climbed this year and that’s satisfying. I did it with one fall in 2017 (when I had recently climbed E2) and just thought “I’ll come back and do that clean one day”. Last year I found I could barely move on it… Early autumn this year I gave it another go and I could do the moves but ran out of steam after I “fell off” but hung on to a fingerlock one-armed :strongbench: I watched the forecast and a week or so later I took a beautiful weekday off work with Slab Happy, climbed the bottom half (the hard bit) terribly but successfully, spent a daft amount of time de-pumping and psyching up for the easier top half which I remembered nothing about and got irrationally “pressure-scared” on.
Sniffer Dog, E1 5a, Ravenstones
I love the Chew Valley. Sniffer Dog is on the big cool wall with True Grit (https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci13Ye-DJ3Z/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=) on it and there’s a photo of it in the Over the Moors guide that I look at every time I open that book. Due to this (and the fact that it’s a renowned soft touch…) I decided last winter that this would be my first E1 since doomsday.
It was September before we went over, the weekend before the official start of autumn and the first cool-feeling day. I told everyone I was going to climb it on the walk-in, watched Reeve do it as his warm-up then led it myself half an hour later. I didn’t feel intimidated, I just felt great. When I felt a bit pumped I just shook it out and kept moving. I felt like I was in the place I was meant to be, heading for success that was a foregone conclusion. This made me realise just how much of my nerves comes from internal rather than external factors and how much being part of a positive, supportive group helps me keep on top of that.
Goliath’s Groove, HVS 5b, Stanage Plantation
Like a lot of people I decided to “save this for the onsight” when I was first working through the classic grit HVSs years ago because, like a lot of people, I knew I didn’t have the skills to onsight it and would rather avoid routes like that than not do them first go. Having lost those kind of pretensions along with most of my climbing ability but wanting to learn how to climb routes like this “on the job” I took my other half up to the Plantation on a midgy evening. Let’s just say that It was one of my “top spankings” of 2020.
After I’d climbed lots of offwidths in the States this summer we went up there again. Decent conditions but no-one about. I pumped out at about the same place as before but it was just a flash pump- I still had loads left in the tank due to actually knowing what I was doing. I felt that excitement of knowing I could do it but as I rested it got windier and dark clouds were visible in the valley. A few drops of rain fell. Fuck’s sake. Then, as if we were in Wyoming, the wind just blew the storm up the valley and past us. I did the route next go and it was so satisfying I can’t even tell you.
Central Crack, Wilton 3
Fucking hell Wiltonfest is a laugh. We headed up as a team up from Sheffield and I had my first proper tilt at climbing in the quarries, the previous ones having been handicapped by either the rock or me being in poor condition. This route is a straightforward HVS 5a crack with a tricky thin bit about a third of the way up, the sort of thing that confident climbers go straight up first go but that I’ve developed a habit of hanging around too long on, downclimbing to depump, going back up, not committing to, lowering off, pulling the rope and going back up again, only to find on actually committing that I should have gone straight up first go. I went straight up this first go and my mate was fucking gobsmacked.
The Candle, HVS 5b, Twistleton Scars
I have a mate who lives in the Kendal area and my mate from down here went up to visit him for the weekend. He was coming back down on the Monday which I couldn’t get off work so I didn’t join them. As luck would have it the Monday was then given as a Bank Holiday so I suggested we all “meet up in Yorkshire on your way back”. The Yorkshire crag they picked was this one which I’d never heard of, but is seemingly the furthest north in Yorkshire- 40 minutes from Kendal but 2:35 from Sheffield ::).
Upon meeting them at the end of this drive I freely expressed my dissatisfaction at their choice :furious: , followed quickly by an equally grumpy enquiry as to where the crag was- imagine the hilarity as they revealed that it was the unimpressive-looking outcrop I could already see. Long story short it turns out it’s actually a nice crag and we had a good day. I did this route (which should really be called “the phallus”) without fuss and they both found it really tough on the second so I felt like a badass.
Top 5 Trad Routes, USA
Durrance, ~HVS 5b, Devil’s Tower
Ever since I learnt about the Devil’s Tower in January 2011 from an article in a 90s issue of High Mountain Sports I’ve wanted to climb it. I wasn’t quite making mashed potato models like Richard Dreyfus in Close Encounters of the Third Kind but it was always in the back of my mind as something that I’d definitely do.
The Durrance is the classic route, only 5.8 but with a reputation for dessicatingly hot epics due to short pitches that can’t be easily combined, funky offwidth bits on every pitch, extreme popularity with people who are being guided and/ or have no experience in wide cracks or even crack climbing in general, polished rock, a south-facing, unsheltered aspect etc. etc. We heeded the guidebook’s advice to climb another, harder but more straightforward, route a few days earlier to get the summit tick which was great but just left us with a hunger for what we’d really come for.
After a rest day we got up at 5AM and were first on the route (just) for what I can say with 100% certainty is the most satisfying ascent I’ve ever made. After a week in Vedauwoo (see below) the offwidthy bits all felt easy and the funkiness that everyone warns will slow you down just felt like all the weird chimneys and sandbaggy grit HSs I’ve spent years farting about on. Despite climbing in a three we beat the guidebook time, summitted alone and it was glorious. :dance1:
Direct East Face, ~VS 4b, First Flatiron
This is a big multipitch that Boulder locals solo and you can see why- although it’s about 300m tall it’s very slabby and mostly VDiff romping but does have some tougher bits, but almost all on the first pitch, most of which is in the “might as well solo it anyway” category. I led that pitch as the first thing we climbed on the trip. 15m runouts are far from the sort of thing I’ve “had in my locker” since I learnt to climb again but I was psyched and felt like I had a point to prove to the world. I sat at the first belay and knew this was a new chapter.
Edward’s Crack, ~E1 5b, Vedauwoo
When you get to The ‘Voo the first crag you notice is called Nautilus- a (largely) single-pitch crag with weird similarities to the Roaches and lots of the area’s famous routes. No matter what level you climb at you could have a great trip only climbing there but at some point you realise that there’s another “central area” which is more like 100m tall and has ridiculously intimidating multipitch things like Horn’s Motherfucker (https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/106052514_large_1558468164.jpg?cache=1663790207) on it. We didn’t do anything that hard (not least because you need about 15 #3 camalots for it), but we did do this “5.7” classic, a slightly slabby crack that also goes on for ever and is in the “you can see it from space” (https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/1203061_large_1557526219.jpg?cache=1663790180) class of line.
I was intimidated and took every medium-big cam we had, which was a lot. What you can’t see before you climb it is that after the short shoulder-grinding offwidth (every single route in Vedauwoo has an offwidth bit, whether it’s billed as an offwidth route or not) corner crack at the start, the ledge you end up on is entirely separated from the main face and you have to make an exhilarating step across a deep scary crevasse thing before making unprotected friction moves to reach the first gear in the crack proper.
At any time in the prior four years I would have had an absolute mind-melt at this point and found a way to back off. I just did the fucker, my mind filling not with paralysing fear but with the long-buried memories of when I used to do bold climbing and it all used to go fine 8) . Elated I shovelled my way up the never ending crack (which it turns out has wide bits despite looking like continuous hands) like the sun-baked-enduro-crack-cowboy I’d become (https://www.instagram.com/p/Cfmb7CBpeth/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=), making huge runouts without even thinking and only realising that I’d climbed half of the second pitch too when I’d run out the entirety of our 70m rope.
Bastille Crack, ~HVS 5a, Eldorado Canyon
I’m not one of these people who goes on holiday and wishes they lived there, I’m kind of the opposite. We had two days climbing at Eldo, a venue I’ve wanted to visit ever since I watched Front Range Freaks when I first started climbing, though and I wish we’d had more. It’s such a beautiful place and I really felt akin to the climbing and the general vibe there.
This is a classic multipitch we did as our last route in CO that goes straight off the road (good for late in the trip as it turns out Eldo is massive and some of the approaches are brutal) up a punishingly vert buttress. It’s ~130m but my now we were going pretty well and my mate (who’d done it before) decided we should do it in two mega pitches. His was 70m and was surely one of the best of its grade and style anywhere, mine was a little more like a 60m VS at Willersley but with a more impressive view (having read the brilliant guidebook cover to cover the day before I could pick out the classic routes on the cliffs on the other side of the canyon) from the belay. It was actually Bastille Day too.
Pear Buttress, ~E1 5b, Lumpy Ridge
When I first went to the States it was to go sport climbing in the Red River Gorge and most of the people I climbed with there knew each other from living in Estes Park, the town right on the edge of the RMNP where the hotel in The Shining is. The sport and boulder wads teased the trad guys about climbing on Lumpy Ridge all the time which, combined with its crap sounding name, made me think it was a pretty rubbish venue. Let me tell you, nothing about it is rubbish at all. I was knackered and let my mate climb all the hard pitches (the main one is ~35m of thin hands on a kind of hanging arête) as well as cursing him for making me do the winding pitches on a single rope and complaining about the huge, hot, tiring approach (see below for more) but I loved it all really.
Top 5 Spankings
Staffordshire in general
I was going to put one route, Lucus Chimney, a Severe I fell off a few days after I first tested negative from Covid but then I remembered other Roaches Lower routes I got spanked by. Then I remembered getting spanked by Green Crack at Ramshaw in the summer, failing to get up Saul’s Crack on two separate visits and finding Modern (HS) at Hen Cloud hard in March too so let’s just put the whole fucking county in. 2023 will be my year there.
The Dover & Ellis Chimney, E1 5b if it was ever clean, Burbage South Quarries
Seconded Reeve on this and didn’t expect it to be that tough as he’d done it without cleaning it and it was choked with bracken. Even after I pulled the plants out I still had to hang multiple times before climbing most sections. The actual chimney at the top was the living end. Jesus.
Greyrock Mountain
I was in the States late June- mid July so we woke up at 5 or 6AM every day and “got our business done early” before 1PM when it would be 30+ degrees C with storms rolling in. Every day except the one when we found ourselves eating breakfast in Fort Collins at 10AM with the advice of our recently-departed friends “go climb in the Poudre Canyon!” ringing in our ears that is.
All the pictures in the Poudre Canyon guidebook show people on 5.12 or harder sport routes with the road and/ or river in the background and that’s what Aaron had done there before. But our trip was about badass multipitch trad, not stupid roadside sport so we selected the crag with the best trad routes in the guide and set off. Fuck me America is a big hot place. At noon we were an hour into the walk-in with the sun beating down and I was more than halfway through the 1.5l of water I’d brought. Hikers were saying ominous things like “you don’t see many rock climbers out this far”. Aaron was saying things like “Hooo… this is a ways”. There were cow skulls and the like.
It turns out Greyrock is the other side of the mountain that forms one side of the canyon and over another one too, with an incredibly indistinct (by US standards) final trail to reach the crag which, once we found it and got there, turned out to be south-facing and so hot you could cook an egg on it. I’d finished my water by the time we found a route on the other side of it that was shorter but a little bit too long to do in one pitch on our ropes. It was a good route (and that area is amazingly pretty, above a kind of alpine meadow where you can apparently see bears and mountain lions) but I was totally over it by the time I could leave the foot-blasting belay it necessitated. We had to stop three times on the walk back and I was so thirsty by the time we reached the car that I think my relationship with drinking water might have changed for ever.
Upper Slot Right, ~E1 5b, Vedauwoo
You go to Vedauwoo expecting to get spanked, it’s one of those places. We were both kind of rookies at the styles required initially and kind of proud of how we did at the easier routes but had harder things we wanted to do before we left. So on the second-last day there we took a rest day ready to try our big aims.
Mine was this- one of the routes that climbs a crack in the summit rocks that perch atop The Nautilus crag- it’s one of the first lines you see when you get there. The description in the cool guide (there are two books, one cool, one square, both rubbish) simply reads “Do this sucka. #4 Camalots. Your (sic) in the Voo”. Which suggests that it’s fists. It is fists but they are really far back in a wider crack that you are buried in up to your armpits and have to climb via a heel-toe udge. It goes without saying that I was breathing heavily throughout my attempt (Vedauwoo’s about 2000m asl, I was unfit, offwidths are hard work) but each time I actually got the magic working to stand up and make progress it didn’t feel tricky, it just felt like I’d unlocked the secret. Each time it took me about another five minutes to unlock the secret again and I inevitably had to start resting in the rope. That momentary ease make it kind of harder to arrive at the top a bleeding, linguinified wreck who could barely stand up in the wind because I could tell that a more accomplished wide crack climber (probably me given another week there) would have cruised it. Ah well.
The End of Time, 5.9 (that’s meant to be 5+ but my ego won’t let me believe it’s that easy), Jurassic Park
The only time I went sport climbing this year was at this crag, which is probably the most beautiful place I’ve ever been- whichever direction you look is like a jigsaw, with views of Long’s Peak and the proper Rockies (“Hey is that THE DIAMOND?!”) as well as loads of amazing lakes. The route is quite pretty too. (https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/113896157_large_1512276069.jpg?cache=1617402045)
Sadly it’s bolted in such a way where the crux is where the second bolt should be. I just couldn’t commit to the balancey move knowing I’d be close to decking from it which is just as well as I fell off it first go on top-rope after my mate led it. I can’t get angry or even regretful about this though, just being there was ace and I have a picture of me at the top so I’ll probably have forgotten it spanked me in a few years.
Top animal rescue
I caught a piglet that was running down the road with loads of people chasing it. Might be the coolest thing I’ve ever done. I kind of like pigs now.
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Really good to read Mike, so much progress after a hell of a journey, and not at all jealous of all the cracks AND a trip to the Voo. I did have a wry smile at Lucas Chimney ;D
Here's to a new year with more cracks and craic
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Reading the challenges people have faced in this thread definitely helps put my own relatively minor issues into perspective! Quite a year Cheque.
Durrance, ~HVS 5b, Devil’s Tower
Hopefully it’s not too tofu eating wokerati to suggest we should be calling this place Bear Lodge these days https://www.nps.gov/articles/devilstower.htm
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Top 3 sport routes
Overnite Sensation, 8a+, Malham - unfinished business from a few years ago. I had bagged it off after taking a nasty fall from the top and splitting a tip on the start. It felt much more friendly this year. The successful ascent was made at dusk with a bunch of mates, finished the day with a celebratory picnic in the dark at the bottom of the beck.
Sticky Wicket - Ashes link, 8a, Kilnsey - great fun getting pumped on this, and a fab excuse to spend time on the uber classy Ashes headwall again. Climbed in the summer heatwave, do I get an extra grade??
Soft/Zero Option, soft 8a, Kilnsey - another crazy hot day, another sweaty pumpfest!
Top 3 Holiday Sport
Too skint to go abroad so I'm just going to have to class Scotland and Wales as abroad (even though we probably climb in Wales more than the actual locals!)
Simon Says, 8a, Split Infinity - great fun, athletic and wiggy climbing through the roofs. It was a much more reliable option as a backup when the seacliffs were too greasy.
It Takes Glue to Tango, 7c+?, Devil's Gorge - mega euro style route on big holds with long reaches between. I loved the very top sequence to reach the belay off a high foot into shoulder press.
Paralysis by Analysis, 7a+, Dumbarton - so innocuous looking but what a fight this required! Whetted my appetite for more Dumby sport (and trad, and bouldering). We will definitely be spending more time there.
Top 3 Boulder Problems
Ferrino Sans Pocket, 8A (on paper!), Parisellas - my first foray into trying to climb Font 8A. I've wanted to explore the possibility of pushing my bouldering for years, but never actually tried one before. This went from not being able to do the first 3 moves on the initial sessions to being 'game on' really suddenly. Then I was consumed by psyche to get it finished, had had 3 sessions on it in the week of the 'send'! I'm really keen to do more projecting and climb proper 8A if possible.
Going Down on a Mammoth, 7B+, Elephantitus - lovely location, funky sequence. Glad I had enough beans for the final slap after getting through the powerful lower section.
Grasshopper LH, 7C (soft), Stronstrey Bank - lowball enough for me to enjoy on a solo bouldering outing, which is an unusual occurrence for me.
Top Trad
Hardly did any, other than a few bumbly days at Wilton and Witches with a friend. And one pleasant day at Craig y Forwen on our 20th wedding anniversary. It was an 'active rest day', we only did two routes, my lead was the excellent Sangfroid Direct, E2. Another venue to return to for a proper climb in 2023.
Top Spankings
Never Get Out of the Boat, Diamond, again.....
Everything at Arisaig Cave. Loved the venue and the style but it didn't favour someone recovering from a neck strain. Will absolutely be keen to return when fighting fit.
Fontainebleau - why oh why did I have to finish the year with another ankle injury!! Being in Font with a knackered ankle was like being a kid in a sweetshop, who isn't allowed to have any of the sweets....
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Durrance, ~HVS 5b, Devil’s Tower
Hopefully it’s not too tofu eating wokerati to suggest we should be calling this place Bear Lodge these days https://www.nps.gov/articles/devilstower.htm
As long you’re wokeishly consistent in your fight for cultural fairness? For e.g. by suggesting to people climbing in Wales that peaks should be referred to using their Welsh names. ‘Y Wyddfa’ please*. And they’re in Eryri, not Snowdonia.
As a minimum to respect the locals (of which I’m one) we may accept, without too much anguish over our cultural repression, you referring to Y Wyddfa as ‘The Tomb’ :)
Similarly if you find evidence of Gaels being offended by English spelling of mountains in Scotland, or worse English renaming, then you should flag it and correct people. Cultural repression being a thing in these islands too not just the rest of the world - highland clearances, English annexation of Wales etc.
So Beinn Nibheis please, or the English version: ‘Malicious Mountain (https://www.highlifehighland.com/bennevis/ben-nevis-mountain/about-the-ben/)’, which I think is wonderful! I’ll be thinking of the simpsons and ‘’The ascent of the Murderhorn’ next time I do a winter route on the N.Face of Malicious Mountain.
* Of course I don’t really care. Despite there being the same history of cultural repression in Wales, Ireland and Scotland as anywhere else in the world you choose to focus your social unfairness-detector.
I don’t care what people call the highest peak in my country of birth because I don’t believe there’s any offence intended - just habit and ignorance and a desire to quickly convey info understandably, which is perhaps sad but normal, at least in my non-offended mind. But maybe we’re just lucky enough to still have a culture and a language (which, I imagine much like many Cheyenne’s I’m not fluent in) which is somewhat protected.
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I love it when you don’t care about something enough to write 7 paragraphs of whataboutism Pete 😂
As I’m sure you know as a local, Yr Wyddfa is the official name now and as such I will try and learn not to butcher ‘er weethva’ too much! https://snowdonia.gov.wales/visit/snowdon/
There’s a lot of power in the names of things, and it’s not as if the attempt to reclaim cultural is limited to the US, plenty of examples from around the world of people throwing off the colonial names of cities and countries.
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Apparently you didn’t understand those paragraphs.
I wrote that I didn’t care about people using the name Snowdon. As a comparison to you ‘apparently’ caring enough about the naming rights of a peak four thousand miles away that you’ve never been to :lol: Being given a different name by people you’ve never met and likely never will.
I found that odd. Because if you earnestly care about the notion of cultural minorities wanting important places to be named according to their cultural heritage then you could easily find examples all around you, much closer to home. Including plenty in the climbing world. Extending into Europe there’ll be thousands. I’m confident that never in a month of Sundays would you have thought to make the point to correct someone on their use of the English name of a famous mountain in the UK. Because it isn’t fashionably virtuous to.
The example you chose is a perfectly legitimate example. But it’s a fashionably virtuous example, which is probably why you picked up on it. Almost as if you’re trying to.. signal something. As per most fashions it’s shallow.
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Did you get your Krafty ascent on film Dan? I'd be very interested to see it if so as always thought it looked amazing but the landing looked a bit shonky.
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Heck yes it’s the best thread of the site!!!! :2thumbsup:
Great reading through all the entries and feeling the psyche (especially listening to some banging techno mix whilst doing so!) great effort to all involved!!
Top three boulder problems, UK
Not a totally poor year for bouldering for me, but all came from the end of the year as was deep in DIY for the first 3 months
Wet Market SDS, 7B, Fachwen.
Had started to train in earnest to try and get a bit of snap back. Finger strength had started to improve and this was a good marker if this. Was happy to do the stand then after a bit of a play on the start figured the tricky move, had a go from the ground and fell off the top. Calmed down and did it next go. Just felt so snappy catching the crimps. A lovely day out with Flo doing Covid, the highball 6C+ too.
American Monster Crack, 7A, Pant Ifan
Oh so nearly flashed this, slipping out of the jams at the top, then couldn’t remember the sequence for a fair few goes after! With it getting dark managed to pull it out of the bag.
Great to see Flo manage it after me too, though she did fully throw her toys out the pram. Was really getting dark and I was close to suggesting we get going but she turned it on like the pro she is.
The Pit and the Pendulum, 7B+, Milestone.
Ok, so not the world’s best boulder problem! But I tried it before going to font and struggled to even do two of the moves. Came back after a fruitless session on In Your Honour and got it all susses and then just boshed it! Was slapping on the last couple of tricky moves after the undercut. A problem I’ve known about as a hard one for yonks so felt like a progression to do it, especially as 7B+ is my PB.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Had a two week trip to Font during the heatwave at the end of October, was really fun trip but having ogled hard problems for weeks and feeling strong had to do some mental health management to keep sane.
L’ultime Secret, 7A+, Isatis.
So good, so committing and such a good height!! But, c’mon now - if the crux was at ground level would it even be 6A??? I doubt it. Still the only 7 I did this trip!
Sky Blue Circuit, D+, Rocher Canon
Wow, wow, wow! Never done a full circuit before and I just absolutely loved doing this! Some fantastic problems on this, mostly amazing arêtes but a bit of everything. Just makes you fall back in love with climbing.
Red problems, Isatis.
As it was so warm we mostly just sessions around doing reds, and for me, Isatis reds are just so so good. Would be a hell of a day to do them all! None that I did were too savagely hard but shit me there are a lot!
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Mostly holiday trad climbed last year - need to address that this year! Had two ace holidays- one to Pabbay and Mingulay and one to the Burren, fairly opposite in styles! Gonna be tricky to narrow it down to 3 so apologies if I spill over!
In Profundum Lacu, E5, Pabbay.
Wasn’t feeling super confident in Pabbay which was frustrating. Flo wanted to climb on Pink walls and so did I really but was intimidated. Glad Flo requested this as it’s just so so good! Abbed in first and soaked up the place/got a bit gripped. Then went up a ways and placed some kit as a warm up before coming back down. Then went for it and fuck me that pitch is so so so good! Never desperate but has a fair few tricky sections and is just big too so keeps you on your toes! The crux groove is fantastic - I really found my flow there and from then on really enjoyed it. Luckily there are good tests and the top bit running it out on pegmatite crimps made me feel like Josh Wharton in the Black Canyon only Pabbay is clearly better. Top pitch was fun too, was a beautiful day and Flo loved it. Think we were first back to camp for the only time after this! :punk:
The Raven, E5, Pabbay.
Fell off this and retreated after getting cold in the howling wind on day 1 (probably what knocked my confidence and caused some self-loathing to rear its ugly head.) Faffed about wanting to do Ship of Fools but the traverse in was getting a bit wave smashed at the start and I am a proper wimp above the sea unroped, nearly abbed in but was crippled by lack of confidence. For some mad reason decided to go and have another crack at this, was once again windy but felt bionic on the crux hold that I had felt unable to hold a few days previous. Swarmed up the jams and jugs feeling fairly heroic to the break then scuttled over the roof. I went right a bit as I had seen Andy Moles go this way and the guide makes it look like you step right but apparently it goes direct. Maybe I cheated it, but where I went over the roof was still challenging enough. A rare route that Flo didn’t just piss up on second!
Refraction + Quiksilver + Ice Queen, E5, the Burren.
Ok ok ok. 3for1! All just so good and different!
Ice Queen is more bold, techy and thin. Done on our first day in some fairly hot heat. Could have done with an Ice cream after!
Quiksilver - just ace climbing, nice and friendly as you can get some kit in and then climb through the hard section, rinse and repeat.
Refraction- the one. Knew I had to do it as it’s the Uber classic. Was a bit nervous but tbh it was all there - lower crack thin but not too bad, and the top crux is really good. Probably doesn’t need the peg, though I clipped it all the same!
The Cutter, E4, Burren
Sorry, just one more. This thing just keeps coming at you, with sustained difficulty and quality! Local wad got a piccy of me on it and stuck it on ukc which was nice of him!
Top three sport routes UK
A fairly decent year of sport climbing though felt like a slow start.
Shine On, 8a, the Diamond.
A Petejh masterpiece!!! Had plans to get on the shining but with clips in this, seemed obvious as it would defo be clean. Took 5ish sessions with the go being an all out battle slapping my way through to the final big rest, camping out for ages trying to not worry about final tricky move. Finally felt recovered and blasted up the pumpy pillar, caught the Gaston, hit the jug and then was too pumped to climb the top as I usually did on the dog! Managed to freestyle to the belay pumped out of my mind!!
Luke Dawson reckons it’s the best 8a in the UK so I’ll go with that! Though he also said it was piss, but I imagine stamina 8as are when you are a 9a beast.
Watching Luke destroy The diamond whilst we were working in wales was incredible to see. Especially the day he warmed up on Rub a dubdub (7a), did the beast (8c) 1st rp, got close to onsighting one of the 8a+s, doing it 2nd go, then same on the other 8a+, then onsighting the shining (8a) to warm down.
The Ashes, 7c+, Kilnsey
That headwall is so much fun it should be illegal! That’s about it really. Always thought I’d struggle on this but really loved it.
Cruella Deville/Hidden Sign, 7b, Castell y Gwynt
Flashed one, onsighted the other. Just two fantastic contrasting routes at a brilliant crag done with some good friends and consequently having a right laugh!
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Les mysteries de l’ouest, 7b, St Leger
Gave it absolutely everything on this. Even ended up climbing h th e wrong way away from a bolt and having to traverse back left to get back on route. Just brill.
Le voleur du peasenteur, 7c, st leger
Didn’t actually manage this but had a great time getting close and getting really really boxed on our last day in st leger.
Moby dick, 7c, st leger
Had an onsight go but as it was 7c didn’t have full conviction. Fluffed it low down but on going to the top, could defo have given it a good effort. Did it fairly ok next go so feel like I need to get back into tricky sport onsighting.
Top spankings
Les clowns, 7c, st leger.
Fuck a duck! Just desperate! Start isn’t so bad but once you get into those tufas I was in trouble! Then that hard move at 2/3rds! In my defence hadn’t been doing any climbing in the 3 months lead up to the trip but still!
Getting the full bore trad psyche. Who knows why.
Been ill more than I’d like this autumn… covid and then a long lingering cold that I’m still struggling to shake the cough from…
Top non-climbing
All the ace times spent with Flo! From going to see Dr Rubinstein and Blueprint DJs down in London, to all the ace climbing adventures we’ve been on together, via all the nice times doing more normal stuff. Fully feel like I’ve found my one which is exciting!
Lots of cool wildlife sightings this year; otter swimming in the lily ponds at Pembroke (all day he/she was there showing off!)
Pabbay and Mingulay wildlife- basking sharks
Dolphins fishing in the bay
Golden eagle
Puffins
The world is a truly magical place!
Final non-climbing is just getting my life shit together. House is as good as done (will probs always have little projects) work is in a good place - interesting enough, earn enough and flexible enough.
All in all been one of the best years yet I think! Not climbed my all time hardest but just had loads of fun.
Looking forward to reading some more entries- Happy New Year all hope it’s a good one for everybody.
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The Raven, E5, Pabbay.
I went right a bit as I had seen Andy Moles go this way and the guide makes it look like you step right but apparently it goes direct. Maybe I cheated it, but where I went over the roof was still challenging enough.
Yeah I was left feeling a tiny bit cheated by this given the brilliance of the route (maybe I'll do it again sometime?), I'm pretty sure the SMC guidebook is just wrong. Someone has looked up and assumed the 'hairline crack' or whatever it is in the description is the obvious one on the right and sent the topo line that way, but climbing this feels eliminate with the better holds of Thursday's Setting Sunrise within reach a tiny bit further right. Pretty sure Raven should just go direct.
TSS is near enough just as good. It's not quite in burn-off territory but I was entertained to have an easier time seconding TSS than Bob had leading it, given the gulf in our abilities (which it turns out are inverted when it comes to basic hand jamming :lol:)
Anyway, enjoyed reading the highlights Dunc :thumbsup:
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Thanks! :wub: Likewise to yours!
Bit of a funny one with routes where you can easily transfer from one to another like that, guess just gotta be happy that you did what you thought was right at the time?
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Les clowns, 7c, st leger.
Fuck a duck! Just desperate!
But great! There are now many more desperates that awaits in St Léger, what with the downward pressure on grades from new guidebooks.
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Les Clowns is really hard. I could never do the top crux on the link. Need to go back to St Leger!
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A vintage year for me. Lots of trips to great destinations.
January
Spent 3 weeks with Duncan at Etxauri in the Basque Country. Up to the last minute we half expected a UK or Spanish travel restriction or for one of us to get covid. It was my longest trip away for several years. With harsh grading, stern runouts and mainly vert climbing it’s never going to be popular but we loved the quiet local vibe, the regular whoosh as a gigantic griffin vulture sailed past and the open aspect across the plains to the snow tipped mountains of the Pyrenees
End of Feb
A perfect blue sky day at Stanage Left Hand End with Goat and Roo to keep me company. Worked back right soloing a batch of mega classics VS-E1 with the reassurance of a big pad. Sublime.
Beginning of June
I’d got severe FOMO a few years ago when a Sheffield team including GuyVG plastered pics of a trip to Mingulay all over the web and so when an opportunity came up this year to join a team I signed up despite only knowing one of the team and he was a recent acquaintance. Getting back into it was traumatic that saw me hanging on gear on Peak E2’s and 3’s. I finally regained trad joy on the spectacular 100m Dun Mingulay sea cliff. The schist rock has great friction and the impending headwall had jugs that were so huge you are happy to truck on up placing minimal gear. All the routes we did were outstanding (Hurried Path, Call of the Sea, Voyage of Faith) but Sula at E2 was my favourite. The ambience was pure Treasure Island camped on ridge above a white sandy bay and you could watch basking sharks, seals and diving fulmars. Also got bombed by skuas (bonxies) on a walk in and spotted puffins and a distant golden eagle. We had perfect blue sky weather for 4 magical days but had to leave early as bad weather was coming in so the last day was cut short a bit but I still snuck in three decent short new routes at HS, HVS and E1.
August
5 days in the Pass in scorching weather staying at the lovely Cwm Glas Mawr hut. Got to lead the amazing top pitch of the Skull and managed to lead an excellent soft E5 - Rimsky Korsikov - as well as ground upped up a new E2 to its left. A week later went to Pembroke and had a decent attempt on Darkness at Noon but backed off high up only to find later that I’d missed a crucial wire. The next day Duncan led Silver Shadow E2 at Stackpole which I thought was one of the best routes I’ve ever done.
Oct/Nov
I was smitten with Red River Gorge when I went there three years ago so psyched to go back with a bit more fitness than last time.
Went to lots of different crags and did lots of outstanding routes including Snozberries 12a, Fatal Vision 11c, Banshee 11c, Infidel 11c, Witness the Citrus 11c and Twinkie 12a and Last Rites 12b. However, two other ascents stood out in particular.
Swedish Fish 12a takes a long snaking line linking flakes up an intimidating, impending wall. I found it harder going than Eddie made it look. A couple of good rests but was sapped near the top on a juggy rail. Moved left and got a good sidepull but instantly knew I didn’t have it in me to pull on it and roll over. Scuttled back along the rail *knowing* that was going to make me tireder and I was doomed. Somehow composed myself and must have got something back as then did the move with fingers almost uncurling on finishing jugs. A five star route and five star experience.
I was not keen to go back to the Solarium as I’d found it unpleasantly crowded on the last trip. Turned out to be the same this time so I sulked. Eddie got on Super Best Friends 5.12a/b. I knew it was going to be a waste of time for me trying as it was far too steep and Eddie fell off on the onsight. However, the only route I was psyched for (Banshee) had a queue so tied on to Super Best Friends. Got to the crux on the flash but then couldn’t even dog the crux!. Pulled past and went to the top. Came down and had black thoughts about my shortcomings - lack of power endurance, inability to shake out and recover on jugs on steep ground and power loss when even vaguely pumped. Eddie redpointed it and Banshee was still occupied so thought I’d see if I could get to the crux again. Couldn’t believe it when I pulled through the crux and then wasn’t even particularly pumped on the headwall. Most unlikely redpoint ever
November
Unexpected trip to Datca arranged at the last minute with Team OG. The main crag was dripping with tufa and chuffed to flash/onsight the classy Datca Rodeo 7b+ milking my chimneying skills but it was touch and go at the top using a baggy hand jam.
Family ticks
Chaperoned my daughter and niece to Athens. Blown away by the Parthenon and Acropolis museum as well as the Roman Agora. Also prior to driving down to Kentucky had a super week seeing the sights in Chicago where Sonia ran the marathon. Also had a nice short trip in the van with Sonia taking in Idwal with a walk around Tryfan.
Ben landed a dream first job where he is able to apply his interest in Bayesian statistics analysing drugs trials, Tommy got a placement at Glaxo for his final masters year in Chemistry, Poppy was over the moon to get into Cambridge to study Human, Social and Political Sciences and Sonia was headhunted into a Programme Director role.
Had some good get togethers at Christmas and New Year and somehow came back from Devon with another border collie.
Spankings
Put in plenty of time on Bens Without, Statement and Cross N’Angry but no real progress on any of them.
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Big psyche everyone. Love this thread.
Top 3 grit
Jason’s Roof 7C+, Crookrise - Only 5 years between my first and second session, small wonder it takes me so long to tick things off the grit list. Was lucky to have some glorious days up there at the start of the year, more please. I also topped it out for the full tick, because why wouldn’t you ;)
Catch Me Outside 7C, FA at Mystery Location - Completely made up with this one. An obvious feature, requiring a very unobvious sequence, which is why I imagine it’s not been claimed before despite being somewhere fairly well travelled. Anyway, it took 3 sessions just to crack the beets and then another 2 to actually do it (all spread across 3 years…). I can’t say where it is just yet as there’s another obvious variation to do, but give me another two years and hopefully it'll get done.
Three More Reps 7B+, Ilkley - Tried it a few times in the past, but couldn’t figure out the top section. So it was great to join Bradders and co. and get the full spray down and get it topped.
Top 3 non grit
Ebola 7C/+, Anston - Tried in the past but could only pull on the pocket a few times because it hurt my palm too much from the aggressive pinky drop. Have since spent loads of time working on my front three open hand, so when I came back this year I was swinging all over that bad boy like there was no tomorrow. Which is convenient as my beta for Ebola involves cutting loose on almost every move #shortylife
Northern territory (low sitter) 7C+, Kyloe Out - classy moves, classy rock, classy climb.
The Fat Lady Sang 6C, Kyloe Out - I was pleasantly surprised by how great this is. It’s basically a wall climb where you end up smearing your way onto an easy angled slab which manages to feel high without being that bad. Love these kind of problems.
Top 5 Bishop (which itself was a big bucket list destination tick)
Fly Boy Sit 7B - sweet board moves with a committing jump to the lip followed by a nervy mantle.
High Plains Drifter 7A+ - utterly brilliant and although to top section is a path it felt pretty surreal topping out and then sitting on top of such a stupidly massive boulder, and then wondering how to get down.
Seven Spanish Angels 7A - another brilliant classic
Soul Slinger 7C - worst thing in the list, even though it's brilliant.
Pope’s Prow 7A - shambolic top out scenes where I ended up ungracefully on both knees on the scary mantle wondering if this was the end. A 5 star experience.
It was quite the shock going back to the puny boulders in Yorkshire and realising just how puny there are.
Top 3 Fontainebleau
La Vent Dans la Plane 8A - Earmarked this years ago as something to definitely try. Finally got on it in October 2021, spending the first session failing to find a sequence that worked for my reach. A few days later, whilst chilling in the gite, I suddenly had a "betiphany" and went back to find the new sequence worked perfectly. Got all excited but then split a tip 2 goes later... 6 months of impatiently waiting went by and I thankfully managed it first day of the trip. Happy daze.
Pancas Assis 7C - Tried on a stupidly hot day, whilst trying to find a breeze. Which did not exist. Thinking back, this was actually more like a 0 star experience on a 3 star climb... oh well.
Le Calice 7A - Great teams scenes getting up this one. For some reason I remember the post-climb coffee and pastry particularly hitting the spot that day.
Top 3 Albarracin (another bucket list destination)
Zarzamora 7B+(?) - This was my goto climb whenever I thought of Albarracin, having seen it in loads of old videos, and I got it in my head years ago that it would cool to flash it, which is something I rarely care for or try. Anyway, it was naturally busy at that boulder, so I had a quick fondle, was given a quick beta spray down and just cruised it to the top, before I had chance to think myself off. Very satisfying, but a shame it's a gift at 7C.
Manuchakra 7B+/C - A satisfying one-two move a the top.
La Fuente 7C - Another perfect board climb which went 3rd go. Might have been on for the flash, if I knew which part of the rail to use. Wish I could climb stuff like this everyday.
Had a great first day there, where I finally completed an arbitrary goal of 7 independent, and new to me, sevens in a day. This had me frantically running around, at the end of the day, trying to find a 7 that was actually a 7. I think I ended up doing 10 on paper in total.
Top 3 heroes/American wads spotted out and about
1) Doylo
2) Carlo Traversi
3) Nina Williams
Top spankings
Thick end of the wedge. Did all the moves in about 10 minutes and almost linked into the stand on my third go, then the sun came out and stopped play. Went home and boasted to all who'd listen about how easy it is, “7C+”, “everything’s piss in the peak“ etc. etc. Another 3 sessions later and I still haven’t done it…
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Been a funny old year, feels like it's been busy but barely done anything, so will break down into
General Highlights
Led first trad route in about 4 years. Only a VS (Crathes Crack at Vat Burn) , but I made it more challenging by only packing a pair of tight bouldering shoes, and getting mega foot and toe cramp standing on smears fiddling in too much gear.
Finally getting on a small wall down near Floors Craig I spotted last year, and it yielding some better problems than expected.
Getting a ski trip in at Easter. The quagmire of confusing and changing COVID regulations got us tied in knots, but fate played a hand when a great deal came up on Thursday lunchtime for a week in St Anton, cue frenetic packing (bless my wife's organised mind) sorting testing etc. to get down to Edinburgh for very early flight. Great resort, good snow, kids got on really well, with lessons and really enjoyed it. Downsides were me losing half a pole (damn flicklocks) off piste as far as we could get from base, and me busting a binding at lunchtime on the last day. I'll take that yang.
Half Marathon PB at Crathes. I though I was past any of this, with previous PB back in 2018, but it all came together on the day, great course, ideal weather, no injuries and a decent taper plus new sneaks. Gave me some psyche to try a few more next year.
A few early mornings of glorious surf in Tenerife. Early morning jog past the walking wounded of Playas Americans of the night before, bath like water, nice mellow swells, chilled vibes and sun rising over Mt Teide and getting out the water in time for an easy jog home for breakfast with the family.
Son Kyle progressing as a climber. Great to see his progress over the year, and getting braver and improving technically. Still got a build like he's made of pipecleaners, but that's not stopped him yet.
Daughter progressing as a swimmer, might make a surfer of her yet.
Great days walking in the hills with the kids, probably Scheihallion in the late afternoon, a big day out on Lochnagar and Meall Nan Tarmachan being the best.
New job meaning more time at home and everything being a bit less frenetic than before.
General Lowlights
First pulley injury in about 15 years, forgotten what a pain they are.
COVID finally getting me. I guess I was fortunate, only took about 6 weeks to get over it, but tinnitus is still not subsiding and keeps me awake.
Finally coming up with a workable sequence for crux of project, then knackering finger and not getting back on it.
Horror day doing Tom Buidhe and Tolmont from Clova. detour due to storm damage in forest, rain, midges, and hack through heather and peat hags at the end. 22km in total. Kids did well though, only lost it with the midges, which is understandable. Route not recommended.
Illuminator 15 mile night race. I loved this a few years ago, so after much swithering entered it again. Weather was way worse than forecast, I had wrong clothes so was too hot and soaking wet, my glasses were wet the whole time (forgot to pack contacts) and they made a detour due to an aggressive capercaillie which extended the race to 25.5 km. And I stacked on slippery rocks near the end and ripped up knees and hands. PB, but in hindsight not worth it. Some of the long flat sections just seemed to stretch on forever, and I didn't enjoy it much at all.
Losing mates, and brother not getting better. This shit sucks.
Well done on the big things everyone achieved, and commiserations on those you didn't. Roll on 2023.
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Great thread!
Top three boulder problems, UK
Left-hand Man (7B+), Secret Garden
First tried this when I moved to Sheffield and got massively shut down, then a couple of years ago I managed to figure out some unconventional beta which suited me, got all excited then hurt my back and Covid meant I forgot about it.
Fast forward to January this year, perfect Peak day, knock off work early and head out. Wife and baby join on the drive out to watch the sunset from Over Owler Tor. Crag was empty, I warmed up then did it first try of the day in the twilight while my wife cheered me on from the slope below as I topped out. It’s a fantastic, varied problem which I was really glad to do having previously written it off. This was also the first hard climb for me since becoming a dad so doubly meaningful.
Infinite Suspense (7C+), Tideswell Dale
Another after work session with the family on a beautiful Friday evening, right before driving down to Cornwall the next day for a week’s holiday. Spring was very much in the air with birds singing, wonderful light etc. The problem itself is great, one of the best I’ve done on lime so far.
Pinch Punch (7C), Bradley Edge and Quarry
Easter weekend, and my first ‘free’ weekend without baby duties. Amazing moves on fantastic rock, the last problem of a cool weekend spent with friends. Also felt like I had to do it then as the grit season was coming to an end (or possibly no more free time before heading off for the summer).
Top three boulder problems, abroad
All three problems from a month long trip to the Åland Islands.
Supermartikainen (7C), Grottan
I did the stand on a trip in 2016, but the lower start was way beyond me then. First day on the island this trip, and I quickly did the moves to the lower start in the morning, but kept coming off on a low percentage blind heal move. It was then my wife’s turn to climb, so took a break and came back in the afternoon. Repeat as previously, frustration growing. Already convinced myself I would need to come back, falling off lower and lower on the easier moves. Time to go home, one last go. Somehow I got through the lower moves, the heel didn’t slip and I managed to drag myself up the 6C+ stand. Mega happy. Great start to an amazing trip. It also proved the concept of switching baby care and climbing which set us up for the rest of the trip. I’ve also wanted to do this problem for ages.
Iron Duke (7C+), South Grottan
New area developed recently, with this problem starting halfway through a roof. Think I got an early repeat, so there wasn’t much in the way of video beta, leading to a satisfying puzzle which took a couple sessions to figure out, one of which took place over a very social Finnish bank holiday weekend, pretty much the only time we bumped into other climbers on the trip. Climbed it the same day my wife climbed her first ever multi session problem, so we both went home happy.
Tommi's Roof (7B+), Soltuna
Probably the best roof problem on the island (which is known for roofs!). After finishing off another project the previous day, we had a couple days left of the trip so got to explore some new areas which felt like a massive bonus. Found some creative beta to unlock this one, which was very satisfying.
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Agreed, this is an excellent thread! I was lucky enough to have an amazing year climbing both in Scotland and on a three month trip to Scandinavia. Highlights:
Top five boulder problems, Scotland
The Essence (7B+, Torridon)
Came with the highest expectations and they were met. Amazing and fun session working it out from the stand, pushing one move higher every go. Went from the sit to “work out the moves” insisting to everyone that I’d drop off if I got through. Got through, and just carried on and sent! One of the best I’ve done in Scotland full stop.
Coastess (7C, Primrose Bay)
Tried a bit in 2021 after Ted made the FA and found it hard and scary - an intimidating line with an intimidating sequence. Planned a big sesh with pals and sussed it on the rope beforehand, realising that I could definitely do it and that bringing pads and conditions together again might be a challenge. Felt the pressure, but calmed the nerves and got it done!
Simple Jack (7C, Rispond)
Some of the best rock quality I have climbed on in the UK - Brionesque. Tried a lot in 2021 (maybe five sessions?) and failed, despite getting close. Rispond is a long trek from anywhere, so to make it back this year and do it felt great.
Vanguard (7B+, Glen Doll)
A mission! An underdocumented gem hidden high in the Angus hills. The long approach was made excessively arduous due to downed trees completely covering the path. Took about 2.5 hours to get up there with two pads, which were barely enough to get up without a spot. Punted the top and began dreading the return trip with failure looming - really didn’t want to have to come back for this one!
If Not Now (7B, Strathrusdale)
Another underdocumented problem that I have wanted to check out for so long. Randomly bumped into Gaz in Sheigra, got a pin, and sought it out a few days later. Very satisfying!
Top five boulder problems, abroad
Blue Skies (7C+/8A, Lofoten/Norway)
Absolutely beautiful on every scale, from the grain to the block to the landscape. Originally graded 8A+, “7C+ int county” according to Dan Varian, I expected it to be pretty hard, which it did indeed feel on the first session. Imagine my surprise when I floated up it first try on the second sesh. In retrospect, it may have felt “easy” because it kind of is, rather than any floaty magic. But it was a brilliant moment. No clue on the real grade!
Old Smugglers (7C+, Hell/Norway)
Hell is a popular conglomerate sport crag outside of Trondheim with a handful of drop-off boulders at the bottom end. Nothing aesthetic about this one, but great movement and sometimes that’s what bouldering is all about.
Lynx (8A, Vingsand/Norway)
Another hard drop-off. This represented a level-up for me, powerful roof climbing. My original beta led to me dropping the last droppable move - probably the hardest sequence I’ve ever linked even without sending. Realised there was a better method, pushed our leaving date back (twice?) for another chance to try. Finally came back second day on in a huge storm (it’s a permadry cave), dropped the last hard move again. Completely exhausted, thought I stood no chance, and then somehow did it. A complete and utter epic.
Supermartikainen (7C, Åland/Finland)
Åland was the first proper stop of the Scandinavia trip and the first place I realised I could probably climb a bit harder than I expected. The best rock quality on Supermartikainen, brilliant moves and an absolute sweaty battle on the send. Sam (see above) shouted me on (“Fight it!”) as I did indeed fight my way up it!
Sultan Of Swing (7B+, Juniskär/Sweden)
Just a perfect day by the sea, belaying my partner as she cruised up perfect granite routes in the morning and then checking out the boulders in the afternoon. This amazing problem would fit in at any Ticino crag and features a powerful, anti-style slap that I really didn't expect to link in a session, and knew I wasn't coming back to.
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Did you get your Krafty ascent on film Dan? I'd be very interested to see it if so as always thought it looked amazing but the landing looked a bit shonky.
I didn't but there is a video of Olly doing it.
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Great that If Not Now made the list Thom. You've had a hell of a year!
Very jealous about your time in Scandinavia, and CSL's trip to Lofoten up the thread. Would absolutely love to spend time in that part of the world but getting there from the Highlands looks so time consuming, and time is the one thing I don't have!
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Great psyche as always!
2022 got off to a bad start. I spent two days before Xmas last year stuck on the floor pissing in a bottle due to a back spasm, then my wife badly broke her ankle between Xmas and New Year. Main win for the year is steady rehab for both.
Best boulders
Highline at Stanage a few weeks back was the highlight of the year. Bizarrely fell off the topout twice in the past (I think it's safe to say no one has done Big Air more than me), then a friend wanted to try it and despite being resigned to my shit form I banged it out in three goes. Rebooted my attitude quicksmart.
Otherwise struggling to remember anything noteworthy, didn't boulder beyond the Peak except for one day at the 'Cliff in summer. Lots of fun days out with good friends though :icon_beerchug:
Best trad routes
Aura/ Pinaclissima, Craig Yr Ysfa. Landed a dream gig working early shifts tagging auks at South Stack (6-9 for a full day's pay 8)), and got a few great days out tradding after cafe breakfasts. This was the most memorable, I'd wanted to get up here for years and it didn't disappoint. Perfect weather, sun but not too hot, awesome location more reminiscent of Scotland, super dry rock, great climbing. Let Andy lead the first which is easier than it looks, I got the second which is the opposite and clearly remember thinking 'shit it's a good job I'm good at this'.
The Big Groove, Gogarth.
Andy had never done a route on main cliff due to intimidation. I talked him into this on the basis that it was fine, I'd done it twice etc. I did the first pitch, Andy got established on the second.. and ground to a halt. Turns out the crux has fallen off. I took over and lhad to deal, leading a 65m pitch starting up a variant to the left then swinging back right. Not E3. It is of course stuff like this which is exactly why I love main cliff.
Godzilla, Rhoscloyn. Bottled this intimidating line in June, was back for a fun 40th weekend in Oct (the youngest of our crew) and stepped up only to find it absolutely piss. Had just seconded Warpath by the skin of my teeth and was utterly confused by the grades. A great romp, then after steak and chips we then drank beer, got stoned and talked shit in a car park before dossing in vans - great we're all still dirtbags at heart.
Flaky Wall/ Debauchery/ Darius High Tor. Not enough trad this year but another great day out with Jase.
Best sport route
Barely clipped a bolt, one evening at the Cornice and a couple of hours at Breakwater Quarry.
Best mini-mountain days
Another year without any proper winter climbing, but the Downfall in December was a good morning. A couple of weeks earlier my spirit was being crushed by the weather but I spotted a possibility on the webcams. Had an unreal day wandering Kinder above a sea of cloud lapping at the plateau. As Beatty wrote, it's a summer hill but a winter mountain.
Top spankings
Three sessions on My Orange, blew my chance on session two, then it got too hot, then eight months later it felt nails. Doesn't really count though, I'm always psyched to have possibilities to do new hard problems locally.
Other stuff.
Another great year hobby-wise, highlights being buying a decent micro lathe in Dec, which opens all sorts of doors for making stuff and am kicking myself for not getting one earlier, getting full Nomarski DIC for my microscope, and the 14" self-built dob continues to delight, particularly with new 20mm 100o eyepiece. Also restored a theodolite and did a lot of reading and thinking about stone age astronomy. Bought and used new snowboard and gravel bike, rediscovered skateboarding at Eyam pump track (thanks Lagers!).
Family and business all in a good place, did some paid photography and mood better than it has been. Seem like the therapy was worthwhile.
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Not done a huge amount of bouldering this year and as usual, no trad or sport helming was undertaken.
Had bad elbows for a lot of it, rotator cuff issues for some of it and had almost all of the summer off due to heat / lack of psyche and work stress.
Did plenty of running, though nothing long this year and did plenty of fishing. Got psyched on coarse fishing again and even entered a few matches...
Top three boulder experiences, UK
- Plumstone Arete - Plumstone Mountain - Fantastic problem in a great spot and very interesting rock. Part of a 4 day tour of Pembs bouldering with my bestie.
- Hull Slab - Kay Nest - a block rather than an individual problem. Same as above really - great rock and location (1hr+ walk in) and went with the family so great company!
- Dovestones / Jacksons Ridge - a surprisingly large amount of stuff to do here in a great, quiet location. Went twice this year and plenty to go back for.
Top new climbing experience in Font
Went as a family for the first time having had to cancel three trips due to Covid in the last few years. Absolute opposite to any other trip I've been on in terms of weather (20 degrees every day), style (breakfast followed by crag followed by lunch in the garden at the gite with wine followed by a siesta followed by an evening climb) and outcome (hardest thing I did was 6a+ but went to loads of new crags and everyone climbed every day)!
Top three spankings
- North Wales - didn't climb there once this year which is a 25 year first
- Limestone - it's still shit
- Roofs - as I've got older and had to rely on technique more, I've found myself gravitating to slabs and walls which means I've got shitter at roofs / anything steep. Need to address this in 2023 without getting injured
Top other life shizzle
- Became a grandad for the second time - a boy this time so I've now got one of each. Such a different experience and fills me with joy
- Managed to run the charity I work for without a CEO for 6 months which was both very stressful and incredibly rewarding
- Found myself increasingly grateful for the life I'm able to lead, and the people in it, especially in light of the state of the country and the average persons finances at the moment
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Top five boulder problems, Colorado
- Tangerine Man V8, Lincoln Lake - Amazing boulder done with my visiting British friends accompanied by a lot of psyche
- Kryptonite V8, Lincoln Lake - Mega boulder that I had to work hard for
- Equitas V7, Area D, Mt Evans - Solid line in a perfect position
- Live by the Sword, Die by the Sword V8, Wild Basin - Bit of effort to find but so worth it
- Edging Edgio V8, Flatirons - Perfect moves with a huge swing to hold
Top three boulder problems, Bishop
- Every Color you Are V6 - A very unexpected tick for an out of shape boulderer
- The Gleaner V6 - Great movement on this one
- Strength in Numbers V5 - Such a perfect length for a boulder
Top spankings
- Injuries, again. Spent first part of year rehabbing a weird hand injury from Nov 2021 to reach some good form for the summer. Rupture of pinky pulley in October prevented me from really getting into the Front Range projects so far
- Font / Winter weight. Had a day in Font after too much eating and drinking in the UK
Top non-climbing
- Had a brilliant wedding celebration in August with the perfect balance of seeing family, friends and crushing with mates who had come over for it. Great to give them the tour.
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Update:
Top spankings
- Marrowfat (7a), Froggatt.
ThreeFour sessions in. Still Now I can’t do one two of the moves.
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Update:
Top spankings
- Marrowfat (7a), Froggatt.
ThreeFour sessions in. Still Now I can’t do one two of the moves.
You've got me worried now, that's a rare Bonjoy problem that didn't feel too bad for the grade. I feel like I must have started in the wrong place now 😅
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Update:
Top spankings
- Marrowfat (7a), Froggatt.
ThreeFour sessions in. Still Now I can’t do one two of the moves.
Gotta love a bit of regression!! Sure you’ll slink your way up it soon Reeve!
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You've got me worried now, that's a rare Bonjoy problem that didn't feel too bad for the grade. I feel like I must have started in the wrong place now 😅
[/quote]
Although I'd love to believe that the only reason I can't do it is because I'm making life too difficult for myself, it's not even the start which I find the hardest!
Gotta love a bit of regression!! Sure you’ll slink your way up it soon Reeve!
This one's lining itself up for Top Spankings 2023
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Happy new year all, have enjoyed reading these :)
Best 5 non-FA experiences
Lily goes left -- Great fun line. Nice to do something tricky on big holds. Bon scenes.
Ultimate Warrior -- Great line, antistyle/also fits me quite well. Didn't think I'd get up it when I first looked at it. Bruised fingertips for a week. Silly day.
Awesome Shed -- Felt strong after a very stressful time in work. Also previously assumed it was impossible for years because noone did it.
Vinegarete -- Ridiclous start to the year. Being filmed is weird. It's weirder when you lose your trousers. Nice to feel strong after injury. Also good not to be taken by the sea/ground.
Fish Pie -- Appropriate challenge. Nice time with friends
Best 5 FA experiences (max 1 per crag)
Annie Lloyd -- Best and hardest (but because of tech not power) line at a one in a lifetime find of a crag, basically everything there is top quality. Lovely chill day out with a mate, so many good times and lines at this crag.
Feeding Frenzy -- Immense wall, Cool blankness, exploration, good sesh. Again, times and lines here were ace.
Stopwatch -- Expected an easy shit thing, really enjoyed myself and tried hard. And made it home in time for dinner.
Throwing Sheeps -- A fun day out sampling some gorgeous rock. Two wild moves.
Cuddly Jumper -- Wonderful silly end to the day. Nice my mate didn't flash it. :p
Funky climbing times
Herring Bone -- How many UK boulder problems spend ~30 moves on a prow, but have a no hands rest on a slab half way up?! Ridiculous!
Penwaig Nefyn Isel -- Suffer fest to get the FA. Pumped calves. Unable to move. Most inelegant pirouette ever. Sketchy (but wired) toupout in the rain.
Real Trooper -- Lol. Shit eliminate. Hard moves. Mantelly suffering.
Messiah/Very Naughty Boy -- Psyche for low-quality additions with ridiculous moves.
Stuff not finished, but psyche is high
High Society -- Expected to find it impossible, enjoyed it a lot
Diesel Power -- I DID THE MOVE!!!
Other
Life's been pretty good this year
Enjoyed dancing a bit
Work's going pretty well
Etc.
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Top three spankings
North Wales - didn't climb there once this year which is a 25 year first
Just been pointed out that I did go climbing with Fiend in North Wales last year so thought I'd rectify here to avoid a puntering... :spank:
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Great to read these as ever.. A bit of roller coaster year for me, with a bout of tick induced illness that knocked me for 6 but I have been getting out regularly, locally, before and after that beavering away at new projects and repeats. A big theme in my
climbing bouldering this year has been returning to the scene of previous spankings and showing them pebbles who's boss (mostly).
Top 3 Boulder FAs
Shanty Town 7b+ - Lynmouth East - Exmoor - Extended finish to Tom Newberry's Cake Vs Pie (7b+) on the Slopey Traverse boulder. Exquisite frictionless sloper shuffling that continues around the arete where CvP exits via a mantel. Adds several hard moves so could be 7c although the top out is easier if you get to it. Opens up the possibility of a full circumnavigation. I had fallen off the last move several times at the start of June and then I got really poorly with what turned out to be Lyme's Disease. Antibiotics and loads of rest soon had me feeling more human, satisfying to recover and top this one out at the end of July.
Threshold Apprehension 7c - Lynmouth East - Exmoor - RL to left traverse of the obvious lip into arete/ groove feature on the 'Jammed Log' boulder. Unlikely to be repeated anytime soon, this bloc usually sports a green beard of algae/seaweed that is permanently wet and rarely dries out. The hot dry summers days we had this summer and a neap tide dried it out and I was able to scrub the lip clean(ish). Desperate sloper shuffling seemed to be the theme of my summer. On last inspection the green beard is back.
The Mule 6c+ - Lynmouth West - Exmoor - Probably the pick of the bunch, a big reach out through a roof off a 'hanging plinth' into a tricky top out up onto a high but steady slab. Avoids the crux of Ruby's - Eye of the Storm 7b. A grand day out prospecting with some friends.
Top 3 Boulders UK
Cake Vs Pie 7b+ - Lynmouth East - Exmoor - Little Tom's slopey test piece has been spanking me for years. This year I decided I wouldn't continue to be spanked and would persevere until success. Lots of sessions! Initially the slopers felt horrendous but gradually my knowledge of the sparse features on the lip and my contact strength improved. I used this new found sloper form to climb 2 of the FAs above.
Underdog 7a - The woody area that shall not be mentioned - Dartmoor - Another return match that turned out good. A beautiful spring day with most of the crew up at Interstellar, I sidled off to do a circuit of less bold stuff in the vicinity. Ticked a load of new stuff off, this one sits on a terrace and has a slightly intimidating drop off behind it, you'd be really unlucky to bounce off the terrace but it feels exposed nonetheless. Big move up an arete into an airy top out, great stuff.
Rhododendron Stick Vomit 5+ - Lynmouth West - Exmoor - Has to be slab in there somewhere! A group of South Shire dwellers made the trip up north with the main objective being Anarchy Arete (which was amazing as ever). This problem sits just seaward of AA, the boulder has funky quartz stripes running though it. Alas none of the stripes contain holds. This is classic terrifying holdless padding on nothings until you can, with much relief, grab the top. More like 6b!
Fontainebleau
The only time I climbed outside of Devon and Cornwall in '22. I had 9 days in Font with family in August, it was hot! Haven't been for many years, so aside from the clearly not ideal conditions I was very happy to be climbing in the forest again and to introduce it to my wildlings. Early starts and easy circuits mainly, Sky Blue at Rocher Canon was a definite highlight and eased me into things/ hollowed out my ego. Managed a few 7s here and there. Swam in the river every day, had a grand day out at Disneyland. Would definitely go again in the summer.
Sandbags Spankings :whip:
Corridors of Power 7c - Hartland Quay - Culm Coast. Over a decade of being spanked by this thing now. The sit start to this/ Supercede has alluded me throughout. This year I finally worked out a way to do the start, unfortunately 6 hand movements isn't an ideal lead into the continued power endurance needed to complete it! Towards the end of summer I decided to put some work into doing it the harder way reducing the start to 1 move rather than 6. Really helped to watch someone a similar size to me who finds the sitter easy. Some adjustments to body position and movement suddenly I could do the move. Still haven't linked it though!
Mustang 6c - Trewortha Tor - Bodmin Moor. I try every visit, I have had both hands on top. Bloody thing has put hole in my finger several times.
Orphan 6b - Smallacombe - Dartmoor. Great big sandbag! Good though. Maybe session 3?
Top gigs
Seemed an age since I last went to a live venue. This year I took my son to Torbay to see Napalm Death and my wife to see NIN at the Eden Project. :punk:
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Looking back, this year seems to have been a bit of a shit show. Whenever I climbed my way into some semblance of form I was quickly shut down by illness, heat, skin, or a stag do hangover. I did publish a guidebook though and, even if it doesn't become a renowned bestseller, I'm proud of it. It's no Cheshire and Merseyside Sandstone, but given its size, breadth, and in the context of other select guides I think we did a really good job.
It has left something of a void in my life which I have filled with video games and reading. Maybe that's something to address in the new year.
Bouldering
Jerry's Arete, 7B, Bridestones
A day out with Jim, Sophie, and Matt. I was clearly in no state to get up this, being both weak and pathetic, but Jim's beta made it possible. It was not without a fight. I did battle with the scrittly finish once or twice and fell off completely spent: all-over total-body exhaustion, panting on the pads. Had a long old rest then despatched - thank fuck!
Tall Toad, 6C/+, Ruin Bank Woods
The best bouldering experience of the year. I'd seen a photo of one of Jack Hustler's mates abseiling this in his trainers but couldn't place it. It looked out there! I must have seen it in the flesh at it at one time or another, as I think I've seen all the rock in the woods now, but couldn’t think where it might be. I set off into the Woods one spring evening armed with a pad and a rope and came across it on the Harden side of the Main Tower. Tall Toad is a leaning ship's-prow of an arete, beginning with a keel of rock that rises (with a funky square sticky-out pinch crimp) to a slabby headwall. It is large and it is sensational. I gave it a quick brush on abseil and practiced the moves to turn the lip at about half-height. These were OK, but seemed very sequency and would be unpleasant to drop with only one pad and no spotter. Then down to the bottom to get stuck into the crux first few moves. These turned out to be quite testing. Step on off the deck and make a deadpoint throw to the pinch-crimp block, move the feet and launch with as many fingers as you dare and hook them into a sideways pocket in the steepest part of the roof. Hold the swing and you're free to yard up to the mid-height rail on the lip of the overhang where the sequence to get established on the lip can play out.
My god, this felt good. To be in those woods, just around the corner from home, and to find such treasure that barely anybody knows or cares about, and for it to be So. Fucking. Good. Pure nectar.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cbf7vtgDl5C/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Peter Pan, 7B, Rocher du Mauvais Passage
I've wanted to do this since seeing Font Emotions as a teenager. Moon-kicking glory. I was nearly thwarted when, on landing the finishing hold, a Mexican began shouting "CAMPUS CAMPUS" so I duly did. When I'd landed on the floor he said "Oh, no, I think the word is 'match'", so I had to do it again.
The Font trip was good. Kids came home to the gite every day filthy and exhausted, and my wife had a decent time too.
Trad
I did a decent amount of trad (for me) this year. I always start low on confidence and crawl my way up through the grades from HVS to wherever I get to before the season closes. This year I started early with a day at Anglezarke in February and had some brilliant onsight experiences. I eventually did some quick E5 headpoints (Dragonslayer at Eavestone, Beyond the Fringe at Ilkley, and Stone the Crows at Crow Crag, Brimham), however these all left me a little cold. After figuring out the moves and gear they felt like complete formalities, nothing like Desert Island Arete last year which very much could have gone either way. With these, I knew they would go easily before I even set off, there was almost no point in actually leading them. Beyond the Fringe was bordering on boring. This left me hungry for onsight attempts at Wellington Crack, Left Wall (Brimham), and maybe a post-clean ground-up of Genesis at Eavestone; alas, the season ended before I could get there.
The Golden Tower, E2, Anglezarke
A sunny February day. Egged on by Fiend. My arms got pumped senseless and I arrived just shy of the top in a questionable state. My second later found a crucial undercut but, missing this, I ended up doing some 6a Malham-esque sidepulling tech and just about hung on to get my hands on the top - which was generously festooned with gravel that I had to mantel through. That's Lancashire!
Eliminate 1, E1, Helsby
This was more Type 2 fun than Type 1. I was quite scared the whole way up as I didn't believe any of the gear would hold, except maybe the distant spike way off to the right. You get to the end of the traverse and your only escape is up a barrelling shield of smooth, holdless sandstone. After sweeping the dust off with your hands, you must commit to a palms down mantel on a small ledge while praying to Kirkus that you don't overbalance back into the void behind you. Sheer terror. Also enjoyable that day were Crumpet Crack (I still have the scar) and Golden Pillar.
The Whole of Chimney Buttress at Wilton One but Particularly Max, E3, Wilton One
Guidebooking had taken me to the Wiltons before but never to Wilton One unfortunately. I had a day there this year and now I'm ravenous for more. After doing Cameo we set about Chimney Buttress and did Central Route and Paradox, which were both sublime, before I plucked up the courage to give Max a go. Pumpy routes are not normally in my repertoire but, this being late August, I had some form. What I'm most pleased with is that I climbed it really well. No dithering, no doubting. I got the gear in fast and trusted it, climbing fast when I needed to. It was a breeze. And when I got to the top the starlings on the phone wire burst into raucous applause. Can't wait for Supercrack, Wilton Wall, Master Spy, Constable's etc etc etc.
Sport
For a while I have been psyched to get on longer routes and more exposed routes, but have had something of a mental block around this. This year I took a big step forward. It seems really silly, but starting on the floor of Gordale and climbing to the top of the Cave Route wall had been an ambition of mine. To do it and not get scared was just great.
Free and Easy, 7c, Malham
I was annoyed at this one. I'd tried it the year before and got wigged out by all the old bolts and fixed static. Then it took another few sessions this year to figure out the crux, which was baffling until a crucial foothold made itself known, and to find it in decent conditions. But wow! On the eventual go I got through the crux but then started to numb out. I paused on a two-finger fragmentary blade of limestone and coaxed life back into my fingers. This allowed me to carry on and I just about scraped through the final hard move to a big sidepull just shy of the ledge. I paused here to de-pump before the final moves onto the belay and at that moment a ray of light shone through the clouds and struck the wall where I was. I was illuminated. Once again, the kind hand of destiny had given me grace. God lives at Malham.
Tremelo, 7c, Malham
I loved this in part because it went down quickly and gave my ego a lift, and in part because it's a brilliant route in its own right. It's basically Space Race but a notch harder. A crescendo of a first half, then a bomber kneebar, and a last move to reach the Yosemite Wall belay that never seems a given!
Cave Route Right-hand, 7b+, Gordale
It's puntery I know, but I've wanted to do a big route in Gordale for ages. Forget that you're a climber for a minute and think of that wall in that place. You are like an insect standing in the nave of Notre Dame. Towering walls wrought of stone; flying buttresses; gothic arches; gargoyles leering from the shadows. Looking up at this wall, to think that humans can climb it is incredible in the most literal sense - it is a wall that reminds you of how literally awesome rock climbing is.
OK, now you can remember you're a climber again. Despite the lowly grade, this was one of the biggest fights I've ever had. It was late in the season, we ought not to have been there; the wind howled through the gorge, whipping the drizzle into a frenzied spin-cycle. I had a dogging go to figure out the moves and get the clips in and then I went for it. I knew I wouldn't get to the top but maybe I'd learn the moves some more. By some miracle I did the crux, despite getting it all so completely and horrifically wrong. I found myself in the hands-off niche and lectured myself on what a great climber I am, a natural talent, a real Jerry Moffatt. I was going to need to believe.
I fucked it up as soon as I left the rest and climbed back down for another lecture. Next time, I got it right and found myself at the kneebar rest below the peg pockets, where I found to my dismay that the kneepad I was wearing blocked me from making full use of the rest. I was in trouble now. I shook for as long as I could manage then delved into the pockets above. As I neared salvation I threw for the last hold in the sequence. I fell off, but I didn't fall off. I don't know how to better describe it. I was in the process of falling off but my hands made contact with the next hold and my fingers somehow gave their last newtons of force to allow my other hand to find a jug. At some point I'd started to scream. Once ensconced in the final rest I readied myself for the easy groove to the ledge. Such a mess was I in that this didn't go easily until, with one last elevator-doors move, my fingers piano-played at full stretch into the finishing jugs of the cave and I arrived at the top of the Cave Route wall.
New
Only a very tiny handful of new things this year. And only Wild Geese (E1) on the Main Tower of Ruin Bank Woods worth the mention.
Spankings
Stu's Roof Left-hand, 7B+, Almscliff
I ended up at the Cliff for a few sessions and tried this again. I didn't do it, dropping it (again) far too high. But I don't really care because I've accepted that I'll never climb this but it's a good benchmark. When the connies were good I was destroying those holds which was a good sign of form.
Man with a Gun, 9a+, Kilnsey
I climbed myself into decent form on this. Then split a tip just as I was making progress. Then it got stinkingly hot. Fuck Kilnsey!
Vorsprung Durch Technik, 7c+, Yew Cogar
Nearly knocked this off in a session but, you guessed it, I gave myself a nice flapper on it. Fucking Yew Cogar.
Orange Crush, 8C, Bickerton
I did it but fucking hell Jesus fuck this is hard.
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Orange Crush, 8C, Bickerton
I did it but fucking hell Jesus fuck this is hard.
lol. Downgrade time??
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I wasn't going to posting but I'm enjoying everyone else's...
Around 350 new boulder problems (to me), very small handful of leads.
Nothing above 6b sport or VS trad (the VS solos were easier than the leads!).
(Bittersweet) Highlights - repeated visits to the little crags I first started on in 1981 - Warton Upper, Pinnacle, Farleton, Windy Clough, Hutton Roof, etc. Combining nostalgia with the last months of my big brother's life, snuffed out to cancer. On the plus side it was brilliant to rediscover the delights of sculpted sharp limestone not thrashed to polished horror. The less said about Warton Main the better though.
Flashing a lovely Warton 6C, taking *lots* of attempts on the 6C next door.
Proper campaign - around 40 attempts on Harold's Wall sitter at Helsby, Mike Adams' start to an older problem. Always found the original hard, got through the start quite quickly but it's droppable in multiple places for me, and I did. Harold Walmsley himself continues to inspire, still new routing and furiously documenting in his 70s.
Still finding ace new places on the Lancs Moors - Dove Lowe for one (fatneck's Jackson Ridge nomination noted). Memorable 3 venue day at Bowland Knotts, Great Stone of Fourstones and Newbiggin. That day I climbed through someone's scattered ashes for the second time this year.
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Man with a Gun, 9a+, Kilnsey
I climbed myself into decent form on this. Then split a tip just as I was making progress. Then it got stinkingly hot. Fuck Kilnsey!
Beautiful writing Will, but bloody hell, a lot of holds must have fallen off Man with a Gun for it to go up from 7c+ to 9a+ :o
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This is an awesome thread for psyche. I struggled to get out much again this year; main problem is two children who don't sleep leaving me feeling terribly guilty leaving my wife to deal with them or taking them anywhere or doing anything outside our normal routine that might further exacerbate the issues we have settling them to bed or getting them to sleep through the night!
On the plus side 2022 was definitely a bit better and I did my first climbing trip abroad since 2017.
Top three boulder problems, UK
- 3x problems on the Camel Boulder at Clodgy Point, Cornwall
- The lone problem I did at Godrevy
I had one very abortive day at Godrevy where my sons were misbehaving and there was seaweed everywhere. I did one lovely wave-washed problem from stand then sit that seemed about V2.
I had an amazing day at Clodgy Point with my dad and my 4 year old son. My son managed to do a bit of climbing and felt a sense of achievement then had a great time playing in rockpools, culminating in falling into one. But with true dad wad skills I had brought both spare trousers and spare shoes for him! Definite highlight!
Had a lovely day bouldering in the sun, didn't do anything hard as mostly everything was wet but it was great to be out in a very beautiful setting.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
- Jenny 6C, Magic Wood - flash
- Jedi Jack Links 6C, Magic Wood - flash
- Merlin 6B+, Magic Wood
I mainly enjoyed getting away abroad for a climbing trip and visiting a new area. 6C is my best ever flash level and I managed not one but two. Jenny was very satisfying as there was a big team on it shouting encouragement but felt very soft to me. Everything harder seemed really hard though. Was quite inspired to get strong enough to climb 7B at least. Mainly was great to visit Switzerland with my Swiss friend and also to meet up with my brother and his missus and some of their climbing wad friends. This latter part was actually weirdly difficult as I found Magic Wood extremely hard to navigate.
Also enjoyed Murgtal on the way back to the airport and would go there again with kids. Magic Wood I would visit again with kids if I wanted to get rid of them down a deceptively deep hole.
Top three sport routes UK
- The Unknown Soldier 6b+, Blacknor Far South - Onsight
- Stalker's Zone 6a+, Wallsend South - Onsight
- The Jewel of the Isle 6b+, Wallsend South - Redpoint!
Managed to get a long weekend trip away to Portland with my buddy and no kids which was great! Got on some 3* routes at great crags which didn't disappoint. However, the weekend also was my top #1 spanking.
Top spankings
I've climbed at Portland more than anywhere else but have climbed very little for the last few years. I had massive head issues at Wallsend South where the climbs are 30m and the runouts were longer than I felt comfortable with. Specifically hardish moves without a bolt right there totally freaked me out. Had to redpoint a 6b+ on toprope which I think is the lowest grade redpoint I've ever done. Hopefully I can get in better shape in 2023!
Top non-climbing
- Getting back into MTBing
- Going to a wedding in Cologne with my wife and no kids present
- Getting back into going to the gym
When I look at the above I actually feel a lot better about 2022 and definitely think I got into better shape and did more exercise than the previous years. Deciding to buy an MTB for my 40th and relive my youth was a great decision and I've already had some good days out on it. Easier to do this in Southeast England than go climbing! Feeling positive about 2023.
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A bad year for me both climbing and non-climbing. The least amount of climbing I've done in about 10 years.
First 6 months was spent solidly DIYing to insulate above the cellar, prep for the new kitchen being installed, and replastering and decorating the living room. Doesn't sound like 6 months work but there was a lot to do and it consumed me.
Top trad
Dancing Bear - HVD, Brimham
Brother and family was over visiting from NZ in Aug/Sept. This was a magic day out. Beautiful sunshine all day. Exploring the boulders, wriggling through the worm hole, taking my 6yr old nephew up some scrambly pinnacles. Then I soloed Dancing Bear to get a rope up, and three generations of my family managed to get to the top including both parents who are now approaching 80. Never seen anyone try as hard as my mum to get to the top!
Top boulder
Flying Arete SS - 7A, Scout Crag
Just a brilliant line at a new venue to me.
Top spankings
Wetness at Kilnsey then Malham
Finally got back into climbing after my bro left in September. Spent a bit of time at Kilnsey, mainly on Man With a Gun. Just when it felt doable it got really wet so shifted over to Malham in October. Had quite a few sessions on L'Obsession getting higher and higher each time and then when I'd finally built up a bit of endurance enough to stay on in the upper groove almost everything at Malham got piss wet.
Illness
Had to go into A&E in early November with blood coming out of both ends, so after an initial 5 day stay on the ward the rest of Nov and Dec was spent in and out of hospital with various complications. Upshot is I'll need a liver transplant sooner than they'd previously predicted I might. At 39 yrs old this is a pretty shit prospect, especially because in order to be eligible for the surgery I'll need to be sufficiently sick to warrant it. So I've got to deteriorate to that point over the next few years. The silver lining is that survival rate after transplant is much higher with livers than other organs.
Hopefully 2023 is a better year on all fronts.
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Mate, that sounds like a pretty horrible situation, hope you get positive outcome.
Things like this are a good reminder to get organ donation sorted.
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Christ Ali that's a good seankenny-level spanking there. Must be hard to deal with at a young age. Best wishes for getting a balance of it being copable but getting the transplant soon. Dancing Bear story was a good read tho.
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Whoa! Sorry to hear you’ll need a liver transplant but also that you’ll need to get more ill in order to get one!
Hope it all works out for the best for you in 2023, Ali!
Almost feel bad about puntering you for dreaming about barrows now ;)
In reply to SA Chris, I thought organ donorship was now a default that organs are donated unless you opt out kind of deal?
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insulate above the cellar, prep for the new kitchen being installed, and replastering and decorating the living room. Doesn't sound like 6 months work
People have taken six years on less!
I echo others’ sympathies about the liver situation. :ohmy:
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In reply to SA Chris, I thought organ donorship was now a default that organs are donated unless you opt out kind of deal?
I believe it is, but they need to check if you have specifically opted out and your family can cause delays, whereas if you carry a card there is no doubt. https://www.organdonation.nhs.uk/talk-to-your-loved-ones/the-organ-donor-card/ Time is everything.
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Sorry to hear that Ali. Hope its a quick as possible fixing up, and look forward to seeing you crushing again!
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Christ Ali that's a good seankenny-level spanking there. Must be hard to deal with at a young age. Best wishes for getting a balance of it being copable but getting the transplant soon.
It sounds much worse to me!
Ali hope you get this problem sorted as quickly as possible, and that the waiting around isn’t too grim. Long term illness sucks.
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In reply to SA Chris, I thought organ donorship was now a default that organs are donated unless you opt out kind of deal?
I believe it is, but they need to check if you have specifically opted out and your family can cause delays, whereas if you carry a card there is no doubt. https://www.organdonation.nhs.uk/talk-to-your-loved-ones/the-organ-donor-card/ Time is everything.
Ah didn’t know this… Will get on it. Crazy to not donate your organs!
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The day at Brimhqm sounds perfect.
Wishing you all the best for ‘23
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All the best to you, Ali. I hope things work out how you need them too quickly.
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Holy hell Ali. Best of luck with it all.
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Sorry to hear that Ali, fingers crossed things go as well as possible
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Hmmmm okay.
Top 3 new routes
Exhume To Consume, Winewall Quarry
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhSDkbJ5zMpRn3HRZhzZhhGIuLN9bsoATDFPJ-JLuQQAvt8mILRSpij9qxPeCRlQdONdKr5y7MGRePFRm9SH4JxDB4wkthM8OtRORdSfFdGnkUmxhbhilQLMVaFpRUXU4CVyMi1UthDoep1e7V72Fzi0OkHuSw_r5D2lkUapswP3-vX-4NlU6GHEBr1Fw)
Named after the Carcass track of course, which I first heard on the legendary John Peel show, and also after the adjacent gully with some farmer's unfortunate debris in. The insalubrious gully aside, this is THE line of Winewall, searing a line into your eyeballs as soon as you look left after the 1 minute approach. Originally intended to be gained from the adjacent First Vintage, more perusal of the start and some initial squirming unlocked a direct ascent and enough protection to make the classic arete moves feel reasonable - until you're on the post-crux final easier rock-over...
Dead End, Bryn Castell
https://www.facebook.com/Fiend.in.England/posts/pfbid0EZPgNSAUumCLfL1Rz2KGysQRWgzm5BMGjLrUyT5p2VwC5FBGnqE7aP3Sp1wEsLTCl
Another arete which required an "end" name, and could be appropriate if one muffs the final moves. Despite a great line higher up, this has an average start, a scruffy middle with hollow rock, a deviation to place side-runners, and the possibility to hit a sharp glacis edge - so why is it a top three??Because the moves on the exposed upper arete are just so damn good, perfect elegant monkeying-up-a-stick via spaced flakes jugs and crimps, that will feel pretty committing but very rewarding on an onsight.
Bolt Thrower, Windgate Nick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wD2C4nC5y4ENamed because, well, it's nicknamed Cat Tor, the grossly inferior E5 is named Catapult, I needed an ancient artillery name... Trebuchet? Bolt Thrower! And since that coincided with the mighty Brummie war metal legends, I had to do it as a matter of urgency! I could have picked any of the 4 routes I did on the Western Front crags near Manchester, and this isn't even my personal favourite experience. But it's maybe objectively the best one, being really amenable, a good line visible from the road, just good fun romping with enough gear and nice micro-exposure.
Top 3 new boulder problems grit
Solace, Standing Stones
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPMpAYoj-4UWell described in my blog, suffice to say the climbing was cool and sketchy, hanging out at the crag was fun, and the extensive patio to make it feasible was perhaps the best bit of all.
Paul's Peach Superdirect, Honley Wood
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1zUBoMtkHUI have no idea what new lines I did here if any, as the guide description and UKC logbook are similarly hopeless and contrary, but I expect it was something, maybe even the excellent "two different shoes and one filed down toe rand to fit the pebbles" superdirect?? Regardless it was rewarding cleaning the slab, cleaning up the confusion of lines, and doing some lovely hidden slabbing as elbow rehab.
Moonwalk, Viewpoint Crag
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg6al6CB7-hEkV3UYTvxTmL30nFWrlSJrCVDGhTHcu1DD1cLGRQzfnNLTCV-DekbQtoSFUpn9CNxyeinieg-mdzSV91y1EydRX6bIkOj859yi4malYBY1rJKvsZLS3PXlUrjkS4xn6W6ZoUfnleYh8FpXS-PDNrPHxukMp0cNIRcraQKp1d39DyKy54NQ=s16000)
A perculiar twin to the real Moonwalk (which I did 15 years ago, that now seems like a distant dream), up a flakey arete with a bold but steady teeter around the arete via a hidden pocket. It's a total eliminate avoiding an adjacent corner, but still cool climbing. This was one of a few days out with the irrepressible R-man who is determined to revitalise Lancashire bouldering once more with many new crags and developments for the forthcoming guidebook, you have been warned.
Top 3 new boulder problems Rhinog grit
Chasing Ghosts, Ysgyfarnagod
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjzehjvApRfUOl_tSJ83PTxQ85fSzn3dPWr22bcVXjtkL4Arh4qZwts1oEWB14VLKMQuHGrZY2BUc0DvAfM-mB_J1h-_9NusHE2kWHsJhtITC-rQ53idCDggxbZQnYplJP58zjqnrAFN5kBIrHrFMuu8mQUTg14mUDnoBGsqr9xY0-Xs0JPRJiEZz3TLQ=s16000)
Named from the patio beneath the adjacent new problem, Katz's Here Hare Here, which turns out to be the work of Emyr Jones who I climbed with on The Range and had previously been exploring Rhinogs bouldering. Despite the patio the lines were too high for a lone wolf, so we ended up picking them off as a larger team. HHH is the king line, but CG is one of the nicest new problems i've done, cool moves via a hidden crimp to a finish on the most perfect rounded jugs, all in one of the most stunning locations in the entire country.
Snootbooper, Fridd
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLUs-nIlr74Named because Pylon King - pagesetter of the forthcoming guide - had explored years ago and nicknamed the feature and his stand-up line The Rabbit. The sitter awaited and was much easier than expected with steady compression moves past a truly lovely sloper pinch, on the usual immaculate rock.
Twisting By The Llyn, Ysgyfarnagod
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8PWH1fRPvQNamed after the twisty moves and the welcoming refreshment of Llyn Ddu scarely 100m away if the sunny grit becomes too much. Part of a charming little Llyn Ddu circuit, itself part of the bigger Ysgyfarnagod circuit, in which the easiest hour walk in the Rhinogs (I did it thrice) takes you to a scenic playground of perfect stone. This was my favourite midgrade problems just due to the techy moves and a committing finish.
Top 3 new boulder problems South Snowdonia / Llyn
Sais Highway, Cwm Orthin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz-8kUnfwTo&Named after the new A487 Caernarfon bypass that ferries sais conts to the Llyn in unprecedented European-quality comfort. Apparently unclaimed and possibly unclimbed, this is a striking line right on the Craig Y Clipiau approach and 5 minutes from the carpark. Maybe too dodgy pre-pads and not "sick" enough since them? It's also damn good with plentiful holds allowing the arete to succumb to a steady au cheval approach.
Noodles, Porth Howel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxiH3mG_9BINamed after Noodles of course. Hosey introduced me to Porth Howel in the pissing rain, and after too many visits I finally filled this gap before the sun crept onto it. Porth Howel is a lovely spot, with a spectacular walk down to it, and the mischievous pebbles that sometimes obscure the problems's starts also provide a welcoming atmosphere and good lone wolf landings. Noodles is a bit of an eliminate, but it's on great, aesthetic rock, has cool techy and powerful moves, and I had to put some damn effort in.
End Game, Bryn Castell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdWJumEesQ8Named in conjunction with a new route I did on the crag above - an arete named End Times as it's a similar twin to End Action on Foel Gron. End Game is also an arete but being a boulder problem, got a more playful name. The Bryn Castell boulder cluster had already been developed by Terry and Mari, and as always they'd focused on traverses and steep lowballs and left the best line of the entire area untouched. Thankfully it even escaped the addition of Ross Barker as he focused on board-style brutality just to the right, leaving me to womble in and find that plentiful holds and a really cool heel-toe made it fairly steady and as good as the line looked.
Top 3 Welsh climber's dogs
1= Noodles!
1= Conor!
1= The Pog!
Top 3 Lancs cleaning
Ten Minutes Before The Worm, Egerton
2+ hours of cleaning over 2 abseils was nothing unusual, neither was a rusty peg removal, upgrade, nor upstarring. But it was a pleasure to return the next day for more cleaning and find a psyched couple enjoying the route and confirming the quality.
Left Wall, Harcles Hill
2 x 5 hour sessions in summer to turn an unfeasible top into an actual climb, and open up a few nice wall climbs below, I'm looking forward to a climbing visit this summer.
Bridge Buttress, Egerton
A multi-session revamp of this underrated and compact buttress, that's returned it to a genuinely good wee buttress, a real transformation.
Top 3 spankings
Increasingly severe depression through entire year, increasing breakdowns in winter.
utter shit
Golfers elbow Jan / Feb then May - December, LCL tear Jan - Mar, tennis elbow April - June
perma-injury thus no escape into simple physical challenge
Worst year for normal climbing (inc confidence, fitness, strength) for about 17 years
also utter shit, albeit not as utter shit as depression
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Left Wall, Harcles Hill
2 x 5 hour sessions in summer to turn an unfeasible top into an actual climb, and open up a few nice wall climbs below, I'm looking forward to a climbing visit this summer.
Shout me when you do as thats about 5 minutes from my house!
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Done! There's an likely unrepeated E6 eliminate on old bolts for you to do, and a cool E4 6b steep crack I cleaned up too.
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Come on yesssss! The best thread on the internet is back! Great work everyone and ace often funny stories!
Another year of climbing taking a back seat to make space for some specialist skills that I need to acquire for career goals(never thought I’d say that!!) but don’t regret it as I’ve accomplished some major aims that have been super rewarding. Still quite a bit of work to do but if I can have the same success in 2023 I’ll hopefully achieve what will the biggest goal I’ve ever set myself!
Also had a few annoying injuries including a broken toe (from kicking people obviously…) and a weird cod arm that meant I couldn’t bend or flex it!
Top 3 Trad
Big Boys Don’t Cry, E4 5c. The Logan Rock
This was really cool as it’s in a very special place to me, one of mine and my late Dad’s favourite places overlooking the amazing Treen beach. A very recent addition so think this was the 2nd ascent? I literally just had the ukclimbing description to go off but it’s pretty unmistakable. Seriously bold and basically a 20m solo and could be E5 at other crags. Great friction only padding with no handholds. Perfect rehab for a cod arm!
New Mediterranean, E6 6c. Rivelin
Bit of a rematch/ nemesis from what doesn’t seem that long ago, but is probably 15 years ago! Previously tried ground up with some ground/ ledge sweeping falls including snapping 2 RP’s with the swing/ grinding of the gear. Full on top rope tough guy scenes this time round, can’t believe I was tickling the pocket ground up back then, standing into the undercut is absolutely nails and I remember it feeling caj! I was a right tenacious little minister!!
The Cull, E3 5c. The Lizard
Absolutely phenomenal pitch and again good rehab for the broken toe and arm! I had zero fitness or trad head which made it all the better really as it would be a bit of a romp with a bit of either. One of those first trad routes back where you select a rock 10, then a 9, then an 8 etc etc only to settle on a perfect rock 2! Doh! Reminded me of Pabbay and was lovely to ab in and chill just above the sea with Vicks before getting psyched and dispatching in very slow/ considered style hanging onto every jug depumping for ages just in case there’s a hard bit.
Top 3 Boulders/ deathballs
Isla de Grace, 7a/ E6 6c. Froggatt
Always wondered where this was, turns out it’s right next to the road on the Froggatt bend. Turbo esoterica, so right up my street. At 5’8” I was just the right height to get good value out of this, any taller and it gets lots easier with one less move which is the crux. Constructed a bouncy castle of branches and cut down trees with a couple of pads on, main challenge was not falling onto it, bouncing, landing in the road about 2 metres away and getting hit by a passing truck. Spicy! Was cool to get messages from subsequent ascentionists shortly after saying "thanks for the landing!" Love that sort of stuff with the UK climbing scene!
Turd Burglar, E6 6b. Froggatt
Another bit of unfinished bizzle from long ago. Great to get it done and has some lovely slab climbing with the crux low down but a steady head required for the top. Great to share the experience with Octavia, neither our ascents were without incident or a bit of a wobble!!
Dragon Slayer, 7a+. Wharncliffe
Basically my perfect day out, a load of soloing, tradding (including the fantastic “Autumn Wall”) finished off with some bouldering. This prow/ overhang is a lovely problem and climbs really well. Finished off with a couple o’ three pints in a nice pub in Grenoside. Ideal day!!!
Top 3 Uk Sport
The Wasp Factory, 7b. Fedr Fawr.
I love going to new crags, especially by the sea. That feeling of having the whole place to go at, at every grade is so good and gets me so psyched. Had a lovely 2 days here and again lack of fitness meant I got full value from all the routes here, especially this! It’s quite a tough little cookie! Some great wildlife here too including dolphins and seals!
White Gold, 7a+. Chee Tor.
Blimey, glad I didn’t do this when it was a trad route, would be utterly terrifying! Big up whoever bolted / gave permission for the routes at the left hand end of Chee tor. They’re great additions and another nice couple of days were had down there.
Flatworld/ Southern Man, 7b. Horsehoe Quarry
Mainly as an exercise in “what can you climb with a broken toe and a massive boat shoe on your right foot.” A couple of friends had set the challenge of climbing all the main face routes at Horseshoe, with these two being the toughest, especially in the sun, so I offered myself up as sacrificial beta monkey and really enjoyed them.
Top 3 / Only Euro Sport
Calmes Vous ca va passer 7a+
L’esthete en l’air 6c+
Porc et Camion 6b+
All at Gorges du Tarn. Good routes but literally the only foreign routes I did, again with a freshly broken toe and a ridiculous clown boot on my right foot which felt pretty grim on the teccy foot moves. The pockets on the 6b+ were full of those caterpillar ministers, but I didn’t realise they were poisonous so was pulling them out with my hands. Luckily I got away with it, although members of our team were really suffering from them.
First Acents:
“Everybody in the Plaice” 7a+, Deep Zawn.
Very much enjoyed this despite wrecking my arm falling off it. Deep Zawn is a pretty cool and useful little DWS venue, as you can climb at mid/ lowish tide when the stuff at Cave Hole is out. This is marked as a project in one of the older Dorset guides (but weirdly not in the DWS guide or more recent guides)
Annoyingly you have to ab in and ditch your harness (which is probably the crux whilst hanging on steep ground) and would probably be better to just climb down a knotted rope. The low start traversing in is still to be had if anyones keen? As well as the groove to the right.
Top Spankings
Grand Plage, E5 6b. Carn Barra.
More of a dodged bullet than a spanking as it was in my guidebook at E3 6a. Luckily my broken toe, lack of fitness and it being on the ab line ( and probably it not looking like E3 to me) meant I could have a cheeky play on top rope, and I’m very glad I did. Turns out that the boulder that you step off at the start is missing, and there’s been a large section come off, all adding up to making it hard, spicy and with specific very fiddly gear. Was psyched to see Reeve looking over the top as I was on it, so was happy to dispense some beta and demo the moves to enable an impressive flash by him which was great to watch!
Booby Prize, E6 6b. North Devon/ Cornwall.
This one just slipped through the net on the last day of an awesome 3 day trip to the Sharpnose area. What an awesome, unique route!!
Ground up plans were quickly aborted and after 3 days of climbing it was all we could do to figure out a sequence. In hindsight should have had a lead go as would have probably scraped up it but it would have been pretty fierce! Super keen to head back fresh with some fitness in the tank!
Northern Comfort, E6 6c. The Roaches
Aaaaaaarrgh gutted. This one’s been on my “mate’s rates” ticklist for ages and finally got round to trying it, only to find out what I suspected. That it’s just too much of a stretch. I’m a key believer that where there’s a will there’s a way, but I don’t think so in this case. Waaaaaaa. I did find a possible, very hard sequence for someone strong and taller than me but not necessarily 6’4” or whatever, so don’t be put off having a go. Props to Grimer for an amazing FA, and Anti T for a waddage repeat!!
Top 3 jobs
Fall testing for game show.
Can’t say too much about this but it was pretty cool testing various falls from a platform that unlucky members of the public will take if they make the wrong decision when competing on the show. At least they won’t get shot in the head though (hint)
Anti Terrorism Training film for the security services
One of the most harrowing, but fun jobs ever being one of the designated terrorists stabbing up my colleagues and throwing Molotov cocktails. It was all pre-rehearsed but when they bring in 100 extras and the action is in the middle of it all, it looked a bit too real and savage.
Getting tazered by one of my favourite actors.
Not for real obviously, but pretty cool all the same!
Top 3 achievements
Black belt in K1 Kickboxing.
Another one to add to the collection. Think this is my 4th black belt in various styles but the one I’m most proud of. 2 days of hell but well worth it!
Precision and Stunt driving training completed along with 3 Rallies!
Cost a small fortune but seriously good fun and awesome to be able to crack out a 180 handbreak turn or J-turn at will, even done a few in the van!!! Managed to come 2nd in class at one of the rallys too!!
As my instructor said: “what’s the fastest car in the world…..? …..A hire car!!!”
Drive it like you stole it innit!
PADI Scuba Diving Divemaster qualification.
Basically an assistant instructor level award. Really enjoyed the whole SCUBA journey, which included diving/ wrestling with seals off of Lundy (they were a bit frisky and bitey!!) and getting into the instruction and supervision side of things. It was a great summer to be doing it and I’ll definitely keep it up!
On another note, gonna get Decomposed Radio back up and running. First up will be my set from this year's works party which was as wild and awesome as ever!
Keep 'em coming, it's great for psyche and just general great climbing vibes, always remember, as Blackadder says about blowing your own trumpet:
"You might as well let us know you have a trumpet ...."
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Great thread. Maes me even more psyched for this new year after reading what everyone has been getting up to. :bounce:
Top three boulder problems, UK
-Cosmic Wheels, Mallory Boulder. Nice to tick this quickly in a sesh feeling like the board strength was translating well.
-Crumble(Post-break 1), Dugout Grinshill. Took me more goes to do than I was expecting. A nice addition from Ally S.
-Ultimate Warrior, Arse end of Welsh nowhere. Very basic. Very good. After losing most of late spring summer to cycling and then finding out that I lost all form when I went climbing again in the autumn, this felt like a lovely little tick in December feeling like I was pulling again.
Top three trad routes/solos UK
Did I even do 3??
- Catalepsy (Boulder prob crux, but big enough topping out) Great day at Pex and felt brill doing some techy moves on this.
- Plexus. Remembering what is great about British mountain trad and the beautiful rock up in this part of the Pass. I was balls deep in Cycling training at this point of the year and barely climbing, so it was really nice one hot day to bail over here with my bro and climb 3 pitches tops off even in the shade and just loving life.
- Jasmine . Kind of thought I wasn't really psyched for any bold head-pointing anymore. I went along having already said no matter how I found it on a rope I wouldn't solo it. After belaying Nick Dixon solo it (rope to pull onto pads) I tried again and realised I felt like it was highly unlikely to fall off the moves, so just thought stop with the arbitrary rules and apply some common sense and judgement in the moment. I actually think with a rope pulling you onto pads its not as dodgy as first appears, so I did it and obviously went totally fine and remembered what I used to love about head pointing.
Top three sport routes UK
- No Kneed 8a+ Dinbren, Good to finish this off after not doing it few years back. Difference was some adjustment micro beta out of a kneebar, in order to gain the elusive extra inch that had denied me other attempts.
- This is the Sea/That was the River, on sighted the 7b+, and on way down tried the move of the 7c+ start and managed to do it, so tied in for a quick end of day RP just before we had to leave. Do like the Cornice.
-Cavity Wall (Llanberis slate) Great to do a route here again and remeber why I love slate and all it's wonderful subtleties.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Piaz Aete, Vajolet towers, Dolomites. Must be one of the more stunning HS routes of the world. Turbo exposure from the off!
Top spankings/Thefts
Don't know if these fall into spanking but felt a bit robbed with all of these. They all felt like just a bit of bad luck mixed with perhaps not the best tactics meant I fell off the top of basically the last move of all of these and didn't get chance to finish them again (many due to being wet when I returned). Didn't do much climbing in '22 but falling off the last holds seemed like a bit of a theme on fair few of the routes I did nearly do.
- Soft Option (8a+ in my book). Amazing climbing. Would love to finish this one off. Punisher for the unfit.
- Wish You Were Here 7c+, Llanberis slate. Started the session thinking it was impossible. By end of session I was pressing up to the jug having red pointed through all the meat only to slip just before my fingers got there. Heartbreak. A week later and it was a waterfall, and haven't been back yet.
- Yellow Wall 7a+ 13 Pitch, Cima Picocla. Thought I stood an alright chance on this, but after a week of road bike racing over mountain passes int he Dolomites think I was a bit fucked and generally just not in any climbing shape having been cycling all summer, so actually the reality of doing this clean was probably massively over ambitious and naive in the circumstances. Sad retreat ensued from just under half way. Tank Empty. Also started up the wrong few pitches and had to do some terrifying traverse across choss to get back on route which spooked me out :wavecry:
Top non-climbing
Haute Route, Dolomites. Amazing amazing 5 day bike Race. Basically felt like an amateur Tour de France. 4 mountain stages ranging 60-100 miles each, and an individual TT up Monte Bondone in 1hr12 on the middle day. Great to do with my brother and despite of all out effort we pretty much finished on exactly the same GC time bar a bit he gained just from being in a different place in the pack going over the start line time belt ( should have seen this, he did it every day :slap: ) Totally amazing event. Missed my daughters 4th birthday to do this and after all the training, crossing the finish line of the last stage along side my brother felt really special and very emotional. Especially with the last climb to the line being the Tre Cime road which is just ridiculous, so steep and unrelenting. Pissed it down just after we finished as well so even better to get lucky all fives days with no rain or punctures. Top 50 finish.
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Great thread, seeing what everyone has been up to get's me so psyched - does also make my paltry achievements this year seem pretty tame so must try harder!! :spank:
Here goes nothing...
Top three boulder problems, UK
Nothing of note...
Top three trad routes/solos UK
- Mad Bilberries - E1 6a - Good fun solo
- Some Carn Barra HVS's
- Some ace soloing around Pedn Vounder
Top three sport routes UK
- Hilti Sound System F7a @ Masson - Good sustained crimping
- Black Friday F7a @ Rhossili - Tricky
- Seven Sisters F7b @ Houghton ::) - Bit dusty but felt like I had to pull hard, nice!
Probably all count as chossy bits of crap to the likes of Fiend but I enjoyed them :P...
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
- Dingomaniaque F6c+ @ The Verdon - Grand day out, must have run it out by around 9 metres at one point climbing into no-mans land, fully immersive experience, loved every minute (I think)!
- La Demande F6a (more like E2 5b!) @ The Verdon - What can I say? Mega classic!
- Yanap F7b @ Spartan Wall Kalymnos - Wanted to do this last year, hoped for the onsight but dropped the low crux. Only had one RP opportunity and once I'd got through the low crux I had the full 50m experience including almost dropping it at the chains due to rope drag - cracking route!
Top spankings
Not trying anything harder than F7b!
Falling out with my 15 YO son so badly that he ended up breaking my nose and hasn't spoken to me for a month!
Falling on a bothched onsight of a supposed F7c (now F7b) and causing my GF to twist her ankle so badly she refused to belay me on anything I thought I might drop for 2 weeks of a 3 week trip....(in other ways it was pretty sweet as I did a shitload of mega Kalymnos F6c's I wouldn't usually have done!)
Top non-climbing
- Got a job working @ Moon - Great team, full psyche and totally get what makes me tick - not sure you could say that for most employers
- Built a cabin in the garden to work in
- Took both kids somewhere awesome - the boy on an epic up Tryffan and the girl sea kyaking around Lands End with a family of Seals
- Got a board and started surfing after a looooong hiatus - loving it!
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I, too, have been inspired to chip in to this thread by everyone else's contributions, whether glorious, sobering or all-too-familiar. Thanks, folks.
Overall it's probably been my best year of climbing for about eight years, although I guess there I'm defining "best" pretty narrowly based on sport grades achieved rather than by volume of climbing or awesome trips away; the former is a much more realistic metric at the moment given two small kids in the mix.
Bouldering
It's been a year of almost completely local bouldering, snatching odd hours in between domestic tasks, work and dropping off/picking up kids etc. Despite that I've done a few things I'm happy with.
- Green Wing at Baildon Bank. This felt like my complete anti-style - steep, powerful, undercuts, so was very pleased to get it done in a couple of sessions.
- I finally got around to putting together my little Baildon Bank video. It's an odd crag but I like it.
- I did also have a lovely couple of hours with my sister at Fair Head boulders. We used to climb a lot together but now she lives somewhere rubbish called Bishop.
Sport
Having not climbed 7c since 2018, and 7c+ since 2016, this year I climbed two-ish of each, proving to myself that if I don't get injured I can make satisfactory progress even with just two or three short home training sessions a week and only getting outdoors twice a month. Good news for the next few years!
- Myra, Henry's, Mighty Fine Ass, Little Ernie
- Cave Route Right second go was a great experience too.
Psyched to aim for 8a in 2023!
Training and injuries
No new significant injuries, and even successfully rehabbed a minor pulley strain like someone who's actually learned their lessons!
Elbows a perennial issue but have managed flare-ups acceptably. I've stopped trying to aggressively stretch and knead my medial epicondyle every time it gets tweaked and have realised I just need to back off for a week or so and then be super-strict on form.
Trying to keep knees in reasonable shape.
Spankings/failed ambitions
Virtually zero trad despite a constant vague ambition to do more.
There seemed to be very few days to get on Red Baron Roof, so that's rolled over to 2023, again.
Life
Work is good; I'm really grateful to be able to say that.
The kids are now 5 and 3; next year they'll both be in school, somehow! I'm still working on being as good a father as I naively assumed I'd be - but no-one tells you how hard it actually is, or if they do you think they're just being hilarious. I suspect part of the reason this year has gone better climbing-wise is that the kids are sleeping way better. So for any others with those issues...
I struggled to get out much again this year; main problem is two children who don't sleep leaving me feeling terribly guilty leaving my wife to deal with them or taking them anywhere or doing anything outside our normal routine that might further exacerbate the issues we have
... I sympathise completely. We reached our wit's end a year and a bit ago when our almost-four-year-old was waking up screaming 5 to 8 times a night. We thought we'd tried everything, but the Millpond Sleep Clinic helped us hugely. It wasn't cheap, but there was no amount of money we wouldn't have paid to have more sleep. It's also not fixed everything: it's still maybe only once every week or two that both kids sleep through, and most nights it's 2-3 wake-ups between them, but that's a lot more manageable. Happy to chat further on DMs if anyone's interested in how to manage night terrors or anything about Millpond!
Thanks again everyone!
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We used Millpond with LO one as he was a terrible sleeper right up until my wife was due to go back to work, and it worked pretty well, but not 100%. Thankfully little sis was a doddle by comparison when it came to night, but we still used it to get her to take decent naps in the day, as she was a terror in this respect.
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Great to hear things are on the up PeteHukb, and all the other sleep deprived parents. Our wee ones (5 and 3) sleep really well now and have done for a while but the youngest was a terror for his first couple of years which really knocked us for six. It's hard to describe to anyone outside of the immediate family how much of an impact it has on everything and to be honest I still think my wife is recovering from it several years later.
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My sleep never recovered either, never sleep through the night any more, but that could just be age.
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Great to hear things are on the up PeteHukb, and all the other sleep deprived parents. Our wee ones (5 and 3) sleep really well now and have done for a while but the youngest was a terror for his first couple of years which really knocked us for six. It's hard to describe to anyone outside of the immediate family how much of an impact it has on everything and to be honest I still think my wife is recovering from it several years later.
It is really great to see these responses on sleep and to see that you guys are out climbing again. My eldest is nearly 5, youngest 20 months - I feel like I've had about 6 months of good sleep in 5 years now. The comment re: life changing impact really resonates, almost makes me feel like crying tbh. I literally do not feel like I am the same person anymore. It is nice to see that there is hope.
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Have enjoyed reading many of these and so felt obliged to actually contribute instead of just stalking for a change.
Top 3 boulders
Slopey Trav 7C Almscliff
Got around to actually investing some time into this and glad I did. Very rewarding and had to do it twice as I had a slight dab that would have eaten away at me on the first send(non-send) Took 3 sessions and a very cold day.
Texas Hold Em' 7B+ Trowbarrow
This has always been wet but found it dry and even had a knee pad with me. Some damn slippy slopers on this.
Renaissance 7B+ Baildon
This is a superb feature and it climbs just as good as it looks.
Sport UK First Ascents
Well Connected 8a+ Malham
A first ascent on the catwalk WTF! I had looked at the hanging groove feature 2m left of the Raindogs belay for years and eventually got round to investigating it more closely whilst doing some re-equipping over the winter. The resulting route starts up Connect 4 before a superb sequence heads off rightwards to gain some pretty stern finishing moves to a perfect little tufa next to the belay. Maybe one day someone will extend it through the roof to give an awesome 9c ???
Taxus Baccata 8a Yew Cogar
This was Innes Deans old proj and I'd been badgering him for a while about passing it on. He relented this year and even made a trip down there to put the hangers back on for us! A gracious gesture. Lincoln had a cheeky solo trip to clean it and work the moves the day before so unsurprisingly he redpointed it first and I slapped my way over the line an hour later. A good addition to a great crag.
Top 3 Sport UK
The Perfect Mirage 8a Gordale
First hard route after recovering from an A2 pulley tear sustained at start of May that put me out of action till mid July meant this was a great milestone. Very good route as well that sees very little attention as its on 'The Other Side' away from the main event of Cave route area.
Ingham's Route 7c Tilberthwaite
Really enjoyed this. Super tech and thin and a very good test of finger re-hab! On gaining the good holds after the hard climbing I declared it the hardest route I've ever done and true to form Mitch declared I made it look it! :lol:
Conceptual Continuity 8a Malham
Decided on a whim to try this and glad I did. I worked it on the first day then went back and re-bolted the upper half a few days later and somehow managed to redpoint the same day. A wild little route that deserves more attention than it gets. Very soft at 8a as well!
Trad Onsights
Didn't really do any as the A2 injury put me out for most of the summer.
Top 3 Trad Headpoints
Janus E7 Curbar
Just superb. Amazing movement and pretty safe. Thoroughly enjoyed having to try really hard on this, skin of the teeth as they say.
Torture Board E7 Reecastle
Found this really tough, possibly pushing 7c+?
Employed the dodgy tactic of placing a wire above the peg and clipping them together so as to take any doubt away from the peg which I then tested by falling on it 3 times I think. If that peg ever fails on someone the resulting fall may well be life changing.
Exponential Exhaustion E7 Kilnsey
There was a lot of discussion about retro bolting old trad routes that rely on a lot of old fixed gear amongst the Kilnsey regulars this year. I wanted to bolt some of them, others wanted them to stay as they are. One of the upshots of this was Mike Grey taking Exponential off the table by stripping the pegs out of it and leading it as a pure trad route. I was impressed by his 'actions speak louder than words' approach and was inspired to follow suit. The routes around 7b+/7c and is pretty bold, protected by small wires and the climbing is every bit as good as that on Biological next door.
Other highlights
A wonderful late summer morning swinging along Rainbow Bridge with an old friend. This was only a few weeks after starting back climbing again after nearly 3 months off with the finger. Super psyched, what a route.
2 trips to Margalef doing loads of on sighting and beer drinking with good friends.
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Nice one Neil. Some crackers there :bow:
Man, I miss the Yorkshire limestone scene….
Neil
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beta for slopey trav would be good nez, i've picked up a dodgy pully in both hands so currently avoiding any crimping. tried it the other day but couldn't work it out!
also anyone has recommendations for non crimpy grit 7B-8A im all ears.
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Don't suppose you made a video of Renaissance, did you? Or any beta to pass on?
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Top 3 Trad
Big Boys Don’t Cry, E4 5c. The Logan Rock
This was really cool as it’s in a very special place to me, one of mine and my late Dad’s favourite places overlooking the amazing Treen beach. A very recent addition so think this was the 2nd ascent? I literally just had the ukclimbing description to go off but it’s pretty unmistakable. Seriously bold and basically a 20m solo and could be E5 at other crags. Great friction only padding with no handholds. Perfect rehab for a cod arm!
I’m super psyched to see this in your top three trad routes for the year. I did the first ascent, and it’s one of very few routes I have put up that I genuinely think is really good. :2thumbsup:
I dithered over whether to give it E4 or E5 - glad to know I was in the right ballpark anyway!
Tom Last gifted this to me after he fell off an earlier lead attempt and hit the floor pretty hard on rope stretch (hence the route name). Fortunately he only showed me the video after I had led it, as it was proper gut wrenching viewing and although he was on the crux there is more slab padding to go after that, so I think seeing it might have put me off!
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P.s. pretty sure yours will have been the second ascent as you say.
Honestly is a great bit of climbing up a striking slab. Get to it people …!
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P.p.s. There’s a video still of Tom taking the ride here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=346429
What the still doesn’t capture is the sickening thud as he hits the floor followed by his low groaning. :sick:
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Great to hear things are on the up PeteHukb, and all the other sleep deprived parents. Our wee ones (5 and 3) sleep really well now and have done for a while but the youngest was a terror for his first couple of years which really knocked us for six. It's hard to describe to anyone outside of the immediate family how much of an impact it has on everything and to be honest I still think my wife is recovering from it several years later.
It is really great to see these responses on sleep and to see that you guys are out climbing again. My eldest is nearly 5, youngest 20 months - I feel like I've had about 6 months of good sleep in 5 years now. The comment re: life changing impact really resonates, almost makes me feel like crying tbh. I literally do not feel like I am the same person anymore. It is nice to see that there is hope.
Yup, i concur, Brilliant to hear from those who have got through it. Our ones are 4 and 7months. First 2 years with the eldest were very difficult {and its still not entirely resolved}, thanks to the incredible efforts of my wife and her never-ending levels of patience and understanding {she is my Hero} we managed with a little input from me to scrape by, then we ruined our new found sleep by having another one :lol:
I do hope this year is kinder to all those sleep deprived parents out there and you manage to fit in a wee climb for yourself :)
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Honestly is a great bit of climbing up a striking slab. Get to it people …!
Not exactly selling it! I remember shurt and I wandering about that stretch of coast after doing Diocese back in 2002, trying to find the actual Logan Rock, and failing spectacularly, and doing some sketchy scrambles in trainers.
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P.s. pretty sure yours will have been the second ascent as you say.
Honestly is a great bit of climbing up a striking slab. Get to it people …!
It would appear to be the third ascent according to UKC as Tom went back and RP it.
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Don't suppose you made a video of Renaissance, did you? Or any beta to pass on?
There's a vid on Hadyn's insta. Only difference is myself and Louis went for the top left hand instead of right hand as couldn't make the left heel work.
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beta for slopey trav would be good nez
Just uploaded the footage to YT. I had to use a lot of heel! Strong folks can do it without.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfMpm_OOy4Q
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I should try it with heels! Beta appreciated
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Cheers nez. It's the high slopers I wasn't using. Looks like a game changer keen for a rematch
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Not exactly selling it!
The moves are great - and Tom lived to tell the tale so it can’t be that dangerous. :lol:
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It would appear to be the third ascent according to UKC as Tom went back and RP it.
I know from speaking to him that’s Tom’s not been back on it. He has logged the date he decked it. Should probably be shown as lead dnf rather than lead RP, but don’t suppose it matters.
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Great stuff. Glad he got away with that fall! No wonder it felt like a solo without the skyhooks!!
That photo of the fall is outrageous!
The route really reminded me of some of those classic grit slab frighteners, with no handholds/ just pebbles for hands. Really enjoyed it!
psyched to go back with my big cam and do some of the cracks!
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psyched to go back with my big cam and do some of the cracks!
Take a camalot 6 and get on Jack Yer Body. In common with Big Boys Don’t Cry it is also E4, 5c.
The same grade and equally brilliant, but I do not think you could find two routes within 50 metres of each other that are more different.
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Only just got round to replying to this, but just wanted to say thanks for all the messages of sympathy on here and in private. To see me you wouldn’t have a clue anything is wrong, which is weird. Apparently with livers you can often be completely asymptomatic almost until the point it just gives up and goes into complete failure. So it’s lucky I was even diagnosed when I was.
Re transplants - live liver transplant is also an option. Pretty amazingly both donor and recipient organs apparently can grow back to full size. Had two family members offer this so hopefully can get sorted when the time comes!
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Bizarrely I just read the section on the liver in Bill Bryson's "The Body" and it said exactly that.
A good reason to carry a donor card to ensure your bits are repurposed as swiftly as possible should anything unfortunate happen.
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- Trav proj at Moat Buttress (basically a short version of Against the Current) - Put quite a few sessions in to this and worked out some nice beta, only for some of the holds to fall off. Worked out some more beta but then it got hot and it was pretty much a write off for the rest of the summer. Definitely a spanking in terms of not getting close, but psyched for a rematch. Maybe that is more light flagellation than a full spanking?
Which holds have fallen off Against The Current Remus?
Had another session on this today and got a pic for you https://photos.app.goo.gl/p87qHXVPzydRgrWL7
The circled hold on the left is the beak, the top hold is the thin glued crimp and the right most hold is the flakey undercut I was using that is now broken. There's still something left on it but it's a lot less positive than it used to be and doesn't work for me any more.
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Thanks Remus.