UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: mrjonathanr on February 06, 2022, 07:01:37 pm
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As per title, what is the point of a splatter board? Can't you just train slopers on a board? Manc depot colour scheme looks like the setters have been reading too much Carlos Castaneda for my liking. Or is there a training value I'm not seeing? Thanks!
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A splatter board is just a board really... I assume theirs is quite blobby? The school room one has enough variety of holds that you can set "normal" or a bit compy - crimps, pinches, blobs etc. It climbs quite differently to a board because of having more blobs - much better if you want to work on heel hooks, toe hooks, kneebars etc. Typically less basic than a traditional board and often more compression.
I think if you have room for boards of different style why would you not - you can have basic feet follow, basic with small feet, blobby splatter style, etc... all climb a bit differently
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A splatter board is just a board really... I assume theirs is quite blobby?
And colourful, like Mr Blobby might draw, on acid. Thanks for your reply. Yes, good for being creative with 3D problems for sure. :thumbsup:
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Why do you seem to have a problem with colour? Colour is good, easier to point out and remember sequences on a crowded surface.
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Why do you seem to have a problem with colour? Colour is good, easier to point out and remember sequences on a crowded surface.
:lol: Good point. I don't*, it's just quite hallucinatory, it was an inconsequential comment. More interested in its value as a training tool and how people train on it.
* well maybe a little bit in the sense that I'm colour blind, so brown and green and red are hard to differentiate.
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Why do you seem to have a problem with colour? Colour is good, easier to point out and remember sequences on a crowded surface.
Possibly a slight aesthetically incongruous clash with the vast swathes of chic and elegant wood in the rest of the Depot training room??
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I'm only really familiar with the School one. I use it for everything, by which I don't mean that I only climb on there but that I I've used it for hard boulders, campus problems, an cap, aero pow circuits, aero cap, even practicing hard kneebar rests! But I suspect it may be far more versatile and thoughtfully set than many and therefore may be unusually useful! I can imagine it's very easy to make a shit one if you don't set it well
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I used the depot splatter board to warm up on the other day and confess I didn't have a clue how to use it properly. Am I allowed to put my feet on anything, for example? Tips welcome as it's always quiet...
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The problems at the school are usually set feet follow, same as a normal board. Obviously, same as a normal board, you can use any feet to make things easier or warm up or make circuits easier etc... It's just a big board with some more compy holds, no more, no less... Anywhere sensible will have it on an app to add problems
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Yeah, no app at the depot I don't think which is partly the reason for confusion! There are also some small brown footholds low down, but almost none higher up, so it's hard to find feet the higher you get. Maybe it's just a dud
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If it isn't on an app, you could add it to one of the free apps like Open Climbs or Retro Flash so you can remember/share problems.
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Yeah, no app at the depot I don't think which is partly the reason for confusion! There are also some small brown footholds low down, but almost none higher up, so it's hard to find feet the higher you get. Maybe it's just a dud
Ah right, without an app or a book it's going to be much more limited, especially if it's a wall you only visit sporadically... needs to be on Stokt or similar really! If you ask I bet they'll add it (or at least I'd hope they would, anywhere that wouldn't needs a kick up the ass).
The School also has some small feet low down - like a kickboard but not on a kickboard. Problems often use any of these small feet to start (like a kickboard) and then feet follow once they run out. That said, people also set problems with set feet at the start, depends on the setter and what they wanted to create.
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If it isn't on an app, you could add it to one of the free apps like Open Climbs or Retro Flash so you can remember/share problems.
I usually just take a photo on the phone and circle the holds. Are apps better (assuming that you do not want to share your circuits?)
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Mostly just useful for sharing things IMO
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I use an app for my home board called Boulder Challenge. It had a one off fee of less than £1 (I don't think there were any free ones available at the time I bought it). I find it keeps my problems a lot more organised more easily and was worth the small cost despite not using it to share the problems with other users.
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Not used Retro Flash before, but going to give it a bash on my board.
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If it isn't on an app, you could add it to one of the free apps like Open Climbs or Retro Flash so you can remember/share problems.
I usually just take a photo on the phone and circle the holds. Are apps better (assuming that you do not want to share your circuits?)
I find apps useful for a few things:
- sharing problems
- keeping track of names/grades/rules of problems
- sorting problems/circuits by difficulty/by date etc
- creating folders of problems so you can quickly swipe between different problems during an endurance session
- adding beta videos
- syncing with LEDs
But how useful they are depends on the board and how you use it.
I think Retroflash is the most polished of the free apps I've used, although I've switched from it to the beta version of a new app a mate is developing.
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On the topic of splatter board apps, this is pretty cool https://www.boulderbot.io/ You label all the holds and then it makes up problems for you, pretty handy when you're having one of those sessions where you can't be bothered making stuff up yourself. There's a paid version with lots of other cool features like 'set me problems on undercuts and pockets'.
I've found about 1 in 10 problems it generates are good enough to work with, but given that you can generate 10 problems in <30s it works out pretty well.
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On the topic of splatter board apps, this is pretty cool https://www.boulderbot.io/ You label all the holds and then it makes up problems for you, pretty handy when you're having one of those sessions where you can't be bothered making stuff up yourself. There's a paid version with lots of other cool features like 'set me problems on undercuts and pockets'.
I've found about 1 in 10 problems it generates are good enough to work with, but given that you can generate 10 problems in <30s it works out pretty well.
Nice one Remus, just set this up and it looks really cool. Keen to give it a test.
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Yeah, no app at the depot I don't think which is partly the reason for confusion! There are also some small brown footholds low down, but almost none higher up, so it's hard to find feet the higher you get. Maybe it's just a dud
The Depot Manchester now has Stokt on the splatter board, which is good news :thumbsup:
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Yep used it today very useful, hard to choose holds when setting problems as doesn't zoom in very far but that just might be my phone. Had whole splatter board to myself at lunchtime.
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All of the chapel boards are splatter boards!!
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Not any more Eddie, the 45 is a system board (with some extras) now. It’s impressive.
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I know the middle half of the 45 is a system board, because I set it ;)
All the other boards are splatter boards built over 'new' original problems that Dave and Ian set.
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Yeah, you did a decent job Eddie, but the 45 has been stripped (except Midnight and DK2)and completely reset as a system board with new wooden holds, mostly Rick Ginns’ Strongholds :thumbsup:. There’s some extra resins and a little strip by the barrel outside of the symmetry. Think the 30’ is next.
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:jaw:
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It’s good. Some pics of the process on the farcebook page. You should get on it!