UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: mrjonathanr on August 14, 2020, 04:04:46 pm
-
I’d be grateful for a few pointers as to where is good for an hour or two’s bouldering near Tunbridge Wells.
We will be based in Tunbridge Wells next week and I can slope off from the family for a quick hit but need the access time from TW to be minimal. Anything 6B-7B would be perfect. I’ve done Nicotine Alley at Bowles before, but that’s about it.
Are Eridge or Stone farm good workout venues for a lone boulderer with a small mat maybe? Thank you in advance! Jon
-
You've done the only good thing there already! Morning session at Chimera Climbing? Their circuits are pretty good.
-
I think climbing at Eridge is suspended at the moment due to overuse/shitty behaviour during the summer - http://www.southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk/2020/07/temporary-suspension-of-climbing-at.html
Never been to Stone Farm, but looks like it could have some OK stuff like Stinging Nettle. There are a few more things on the Fandango Wall at Bowles and Banana Hammock (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bowles_rocks-54/banana_hammock-148608) is not crap. On balance I think I'd take Fiend's suggestion and go to Chimera.
-
I've a soft spot for Stone Farm... its much maligned (and eroded) but in a nice spot with the lake in the distance...
-
I've got a soft spot for Stone Farm too, first place i ever went climbing.
There are some OK problems just follow your nose, you can do a quick walk from one side to the other and then get on what you like the look of. the Pinnacle you come to first has some good fingery pockety stuff. Most of it is boulder height / highballable just go for ones with an obvious tree root or that you've sussed out the top of, rather than realising you have to do an ultra scrittly mantle above a series of ledges. If you are on your own and time limited, less time driving means more time on the rock, and the approach is very short, assuming there is space in the car park.
-
I visited Stone Farm a few times in my Uni years. Lovely little venue, but it was looking worn and fragile in places and that was nearly 30 years ago.
-
Stinging Nettle at Stone Farm is good, though I've heard since COVID there's been at least one in-situ London indoor chump under it permanently. That may have changed now walls have opened though...
-
I’ve been out and about a bit recently.
Eridge is banned for the time being.
I’m not a fan of Harrison’s bouldering in general (ie stuff in between routes) but the north boulder problems are very good (this is relative of course) around 6A-7A (the latter being the excellent Finger Flow).
Bowles is only open in the evenings, from 5.30. There are some good things in the Fandango area inc the previously mentioned Banana Hammock, Mick’s Wall Arête plus quite a few more straight ups on the Fandango wall than there used to be. Plus Maybe When You’re Older up the slope and to the left.
Stone Farm is a lovely spot - not been there for a while though.
-
Chimera is the nearest and where I usually go, but there’s also the newer and very nice Volume 1 at East Grinstead.
-
I visited Stone Farm a few times in my Uni years. Lovely little venue, but it was looking worn and fragile in places and that was nearly 30 years ago.
I first went in 1989, I went back in 2002 or so once or twice, and it wasn't as bad as I was expecting, a lot of anti erosion measures had been put in place.
-
Thank you very much for all the replies. Sounds like Bowles is the premier venue but Stone Farm occupies a soft spot in quite a few hearts. I should be able to fit in a couple of quick sessions later in the evening so that sounds :thumbsup: