UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: i_a_coops on February 12, 2017, 03:07:48 pm
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Looking for boulder problems or routes with super burly moves on undercuts. Interested in both sustained undercutty affairs and cruxy things.
Ideally vertical to gently overhanging, with terrible, terrible footholds, and roughly F8a/7B and upwards would be of most interest.
I think a lot of uk sport fits the bill (and I'm psyched to spend some time at Malham!) but would also be particularly interested in things with flat or sloping holds on grit/granite (or other more friction-y rock types)
Ta!
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The Maximum (7c+) and Magnetic Fields (8b) at Malham fit the cruxy type. Shark may know if the Oak is undercutty :-\
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I got totally shut down on the undercut move of Anabolica (8a) at Siurana, though I reckon that's a bit further afield than you're after (and I think move isn't too hard, and I was just really rubbish at it!).
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There's a few things at the tor:
Undercut to crimp
Undercut to sloper
Middle section of Staminaband
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Original Crux of Pilgrimage/Greenheart.
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The Jeckell and Mr Hyde (both 7c+, one is soft, can't remember which) at Kilnsey feature long sections of undercutty burlyness.
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Although just outside of your grade range Vanilla Path at Kilnsey has a VERY cruxy undercut move around the 3rd bolt and then has a wonderful sequence up to the break of the thumb (separated by a really good rest / kneebar). Again, the top boulder problem has a huge move into a big undercut. More people should get on this route it's good. Over the thumb, again at Kilnsey (traversing on undercuts), the footholds aren't Malham poor but it does take attention.
Monsterosity at WCJ (and Auctioneer perhaps? again, just outside of the grade range).
Almost anything at Cheedale Cornice should it dry out?
The Thumb IS one giant undercut.
Urgent also shares the top RP crux with The Thumb (although the U/cuts aren't really the problem, more the move after).
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Connect 4 crux is very undercut burly
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Although just outside of your grade range Vanilla Path at Kilnsey has a VERY cruxy undercut move around the 3rd bolt and then has a wonderful sequence up to the break of the thumb (separated by a really good rest / kneebar).
It's on my list - one of the reasons I am currently focussing on training board climbing is a faint hope of making myself strong enough for the crux (chats with you about the nasty hard difficulty of it have simultaneously made it feel a hopeless ambition.... but also compelled me to give it a go!).
And for the OP, Thriller at Malham also has bit of good undercut action - makes a good companion piece to The Maximum as its almost an inverse (to me, the Maximum was like a V7 into a F7a+/b, Thriller is a F7a into a V5/6).
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Connect 4 crux is very undercut burly
Good call - I had a go last year and couldn't get near the moves into and out of the undercuts - heinously burly. I gave up and sought consolation by trying to convince myself it is harder for the tall! Perhaps I should train for another bash this year - maybe finally get a home woodie and fit it with a load of undercuts - don't suppose you know anyone who could help with that? ;)
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K3
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Moose, you might make the Stunning LH knee method work?
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Baboo baboo
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Moose, you might make the Stunning LH knee method work?
On Vanilla Path? If so, I'll try to remember to ask for the beta when my I open my Kilnsey campaign (... only 3-4 months to go!).
Another Malham one - Mighty Fine Ass - super burly and sustained undercutting all the way - really good route that deserves more kudos.
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Thanks everyone, keep em coming. Any ideas for non-limestone boulders? I've heard The Yorkshireman might fit the bill. Anything burly on grit?
Although just outside of your grade range Vanilla Path at Kilnsey....
What you saying foo'? I asked for F8a and above :P
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Yorkshireman isn't really undercutting, although it is it kind of isn't more like a funny layaway. What I mean to say is doing it won't have any crossover benefit to anything else.
If you can get to Cuvier there's Araignee.
Striker at Burbage North is undercuts, mega burl, dogshite feet. Also Westworld and the easier problem just left of it. Boston Mess on the back of the pebble, Plantation.
Also back on the lime; Resonate at Anston.
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What you saying foo'? I asked for F8a and above :P
Apologies. Smash on then!
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the boatman at Dinas without cheating
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squishy squashy etc etc at forest cock
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V crimps, Bowden
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Half of the problems on my board.
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Yorkshireman isn't really undercutting, although it is it kind of isn't more like a funny layaway. What I mean to say is doing it won't have any crossover benefit to anything else.
Funny undercut/layaways are actually exactly what I'm looking for! No other things like The Yorkshireman around then?
I'd forgotten about Forest Rock, lots to go at there :)
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Funny undercut/layaways are actually exactly what I'm looking for!
Might Fine Ass, although only (stiff) 7c+ would be just up your street - the upper crux section is awkward, powerful and slappy moves, uncutting / layawaying up a rightward groove with bad smears for feet.
Yorkshiregrit is a bit light on undercut problems - the start of Ju Ju Club at Caley is a stiff pull off undercut but the crux moves are afterwards. Stretch Armstrong at Almscliff has a huge reach off small undercuts in a roof.
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V crimps, Bowden
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Thought this was fucked.
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Clutch and Louis armstrong at the cave would fit the bill
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Clutch and Louis armstrong at the cave would fit the bill
Last Stand is the hardest undercut move in Cave.
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Splinter - Big fucking malcs board
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Over the Thumb at Kilnsey. Not done it, but it looks like 30ft of undercutting goodness.
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V crimps, Bowden
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Thought this was fucked.
Nah
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoewdZGvYW4
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Clutch and Louis armstrong at the cave would fit the bill
Last Stand is the hardest undercut move in Cave.
Do last stand into Louis Armstrong?
Edit: into pilgrimage undercut crux as well?