UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: T.H. on March 17, 2004, 12:24:46 pm
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I've come to the conclusion that my woody is a bit too steep for any good technique training and I'd be better off turning it into a system board with crimps, under cuts, slopers, gastons and pinches.
I want to buy a complete system board set. The only one I know of is by Eric J Horst on trainingforclimbing.com, and the smallest set on there is $200 (what's that in real money).
Does anyone know of any companies selling complete system board sets?
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We use the Eric Horst ones on our woody (See below) Seem to work fine. Deinatley the way to get strong... If only i could be arsed to do it!
(http://server5.uploadit.org/files/alincoln-DSCF0006.JPG)
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How steep is that?
Are the crimps on the strips properly crimpy? They look quite big in the photos.
Would I be better off just going through the holds I've got and knocking together something out of them?
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How steep is that?
Are the crimps on the strips properly crimpy? They look quite big in the photos.
Would I be better off just going through the holds I've got and knocking together something out of them?
Its about 50 degrees...
The crimps and all are fine. If you do the training properly as it the guides, you will be fooked after every session, and wont be able to open hands the next day.
You use weights aswell dont forget...
So in answer to your question, the crimps are big enough!
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What do you use to weight yourself?
I don't think it would be too safe if I used my usual ruck sack filled with free weights.
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What do you use to weight yourself?
I don't think it would be too safe if I used my usual ruck sack filled with free weights.
Look at the weight belt in the bottom of the pic on the floor...
18 KG's on most of the exercises. And it works fine for those. Not uncoffy or owt
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Where did you get the weight belt from?
Sorry about all the questions.
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The big sports place at Brent Cross. Though hard to get now
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If i were thee i'd make your own system holds out of wood. advantage being its easier on the old cheddar, better on your skin, totally customisable and you can change them/scrap them as you want. in about 2 hours on my own i made 6 system holds for my wall - would be quicker with a belt sander). i didn't even use proper wood, each hold had 2 bits of 3/4" ply stuck together. each hold has an undercut and a crimp on top - crimps are a bit juggy but you can sand them down, but they are good for locks and openhanding. getting a weight belt to go with, making it out of those soft ankle weights you get (soft is good cos you don't rupture your kidneys if you fall on them). If i had been arsed i could have put a sidepull on each one anall, but i'm good on sidepulls as it is.
i'll post a photo later if i can be arsed. its not perfect but its a start.
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How is it goin,
Seen your discussion on the horst training thing. I went on his webshite last year and made a board and got some 3/4 " mahogony strips for crimps and pockets and a bannister railing for pinches as thought the holds were a touch overpriced(plus I was too broke to buy them). Cost me about 150 notes altogether and has worked tricks for my power though can,t park the car in the garage now. Haven,t used it in a while myself but thinking of starting again for a wee top up.
Irish dave :8)
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Look at the weight belt in the bottom of the pic on the floor...
18 KG's on most of the exercises. And it works fine for those. Not uncoffy or owt
P.S. Int that a bit heavy? i mean fuck me thats more than 20% of my bodyweight. i'm sure that extra weight would break the bones in my fingers. or is it specialy heavy for the sHIT training?
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18 kgs? what kind of belt is it? do u add weights into the pockets or is it sand? how much weight do u use for moves?
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18 kgs? what kind of belt is it? do u add weights into the pockets or is it sand? how much weight do u use for moves?
please confirm your need for this information. i dont imagine that you require a weight belt, though as ive said before if you need teaching we can arrange an appointment you know where.
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inquisitive minds, inquisitive minds. my need for info is purely for my journal. u shud c wot i've got in the chapter entitled "irish si".
i would be glad to take up your offer of a coachin class, only i don't have that kind of money. wots the score re this wkend. r u tryin to arrange a shindig wiout invitin me n johnny? :cry:
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you lot obviously don't drink enough beer! weight belts?
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If you would like to see the wooden system holds by R & R Starling please PM me and I'll e mail you the photos.
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Hi Simon - I posted some pics of your holds to the forum a while back but they weren't that brilliant to say the least - if you've got some good pics online why not link them into the forum? Or if not, I mail them to me and I can do it.
Dave's hold review is still in progress, he's just been waiting for some other manufacturers to send their samples in. Watch this space.
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You should be able tp pick up a weights belt in a diving shop, divers use them around their waists with lead weights, I got one for about 15 pounds with 10Kg of weights.
By the way Tim, I repeated your problem in Glendalough, and I agree with the grade ;)
Irish Kevin