UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Kim on February 09, 2004, 01:09:55 pm
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Apparently Andy Brown repeated Careless Torque on Sunday (from Tom Briggs on cocktalk). Nice one.
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Nice one, it's a lovely looking problem and only 10 grades away! :D
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incidentally has any one of the ascents so far been in any better style than the others? for example did ron toprope it? or did they all use some form of roped working?
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dont spose ron or jon had boulder matts
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The best ascent so far is the original one, I think. Big Ron didn't top rope it, but practised the fall by jumping off NTBTA from increasing heights!
Bear in mind he had no bouldering mats either, one word springs to mind.....Legend!
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couldn't agree more
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I would go so far as to say the style has got steadily worse. Malc only toproped the top move briefly, Andy was on it for a couple of days. Both had a mountain of pads.
There is a rumour Nadin may have done it ground-up around the time Dunne claimed to do it - if so further confirmation of his legendary status
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just pray to god the gresham never does it or we'll see DMM and Mountain Hardware banners draped down each side of the arete during the ascent.
:lol:
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you're just jealous of his tan dogg. plus it pays his bills...
when your ghetto ass gets on it there'll be fubu down one side, sean paul the other, and you'll have your wu-wear spandex on.
and you just know it's the truth.
COMMERCIALIZE.
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I'm almost certain Ron did top-rope it you know, and that thing about jumping off NTBTA was spin. Also, one of the Sheffield underground mafia, the 'you've never heard of him but he onsights E7' crowd, who hate all things spin, has a mate who saw Dunne do it. There's a few degrees of seperation there, but he's someone you can believe. Damn.
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i recon back in the 80s there were more soft ground under NTBTA than there is now anyway - afterall supposedly gary gibson used to be able to reach the start of the ramp proper from being stood on the floor.
mad props to ron anyway - i bet any toproping was done with a hemp rope, blowline round the waist, body belay, jumpers for goalposts, thre'p'ny bits etc etc.
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Ron didn't rope it, but he did 'check out' the moves on abseil. Thats the word from the man himself's mouth. And from the way he said it, that meant try the move rather than look at it.
I have a mate who used to be Dunne's belay boy. He said he was there on the day, John was top-roping it but getting nowhere. Jase then left as it was getting dark, and surprise, surprise, Dunne pulled it out of the bag in the dark. A Fine effort. :wink:
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respect
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all thats left now is for that strong lass at stanage to do it for the first female ascent.
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some pics of andy B trying it on here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=9877).
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some pics of andy B trying it on here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=9877).
I'll host the video for him if he sends it over to me. Just waiting for a reply
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http://www.thesend.co.uk/media/careless%20torque.wmv
cheers Adam! :wink:
why isn't that coming up as a link?? do I need summat else apart from the [url] tags?
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why isn't that coming up as a link?? do I need summat else apart from the [url] tags?
No, it should work fine - might be a foible with the new forum software...
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Weird how that vid makes it look shorter than it is.....
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and why does the girl say "c'mon andy, enjoy it"... i've never heard anyone say that before in relation to a boulder problem. It's odd, but now that i think about it's probably quite a good thing to say!
and whoever filmed it needs to get with the widescreen times! it's so much better.
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Weird how that vid makes it look shorter than it is.....
When the guy emailed me the vid it was sideways - i.e. as if it had been filmed with the camera on its side! so I had to twist it 90 degrees and resave, which messed up the ratios somewhat. Could have probably sorted it better if I'd been able to fix it in premiere, but it don't do wmv files...
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Weird how that vid makes it look shorter than it is.....
bear in mind andy brown is about 9foot tall. the holds he starts with his hands on and feet on the floor i have to jump to, and i'm 6'1.
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I have a mate who used to be Dunne's belay boy. He said he was there on the day, John was top-roping it but getting nowhere. Jase then left as it was getting dark, and surprise, surprise, Dunne pulled it out of the bag in the dark. A Fine effort. :wink:
wouldn't it be amazing if JD just realised that there was money in controversy, so always waited for people to leave the wet crag late in the evening and then just waltzed up all these hard routes?
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amazin :shock:
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Grimer wrote:
waited for people to leave the wet crag late in the evening and then just waltzed up all these hard routes
sound like some one else I can think of. :wink:
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the notorious Shane Bone no doubt!
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I would go so far as to say the style has got steadily worse. Malc only toproped the top move briefly, Andy was on it for a couple of days. Both had a mountain of pads.
There is a rumour Nadin may have done it ground-up around the time Dunne claimed to do it - if so further confirmation of his legendary status
Just asked the man himself (all-star office this :8) ) and sadly this rumour is without substance.