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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣

« Last post by Nails on Today at 08:49:29 pm »

Hi Offwidth, I personally have no problem with pie charts. What I would like to understand better is the breakdown of some of the larger slices of pie in the expenditure section on the 2022 Financial Report. From a total of £4.412M expenditure:

30% - £1.305M - Administration Costs including governance Costs, AGM and Area meeting support.

26% - £1.148M - Membership Support Costs including the costs of the insurance programme.

2% - £93K - Trading support Costs to enable travel insurance sales.

The limited itemisation here is weird and rather random.

Could we have a more regular itemisation of Administraion Costs? eg. Wages, Buildings, Utilities, Legal, Travel.

That way we would be able to consider if these seemed reasonable for an organisation of
the BMC's size. How much are governance costs seeing as they are specifically mentioned? Likewise AGM and Area meeting support?

It is unclear what "Membership Support Costs" are and why including "the costs of the insurance programme" this would amount to £1.148M. What is money actually being spent on?

Why does the insurance programme not simply have a listed cost. Similarly why does the travel insurance incur "Trading Support Costs". If the insurance sections of the BMC are operating at a loss then could we simply be clear and quantify this.

A clear itemised breakdown of expenditure would go a long way to helping us all understand what on earth is going on.

2

news / Re: calling of the lime

« Last post by Fiend on Today at 07:27:14 pm »

Went to Two Tier today. The walk-in was muddy and slippy and I'd forgotten to change out of my previously clean skater shoes. Despite being completely dry there was still plenty of mud and toxic slime at the back of breaks and slots. Meanwhile everything else had that weird layer of limestone dust that has a slight texture but spits you off as soon as you pull hard. Well, everything else apart from the occasional slick polished bit. It was all desperate, steeper than it looked, most holds were either blind, or faced the wrong way, or both. I managed two routes in the whole day. One was a retroed E4 6a that I had to properly work and redpoint and still could have randomly slipped off the crux. The other was a F6c+ that was a convoluted dusty pumpy nightmare that I only managed to beta-flash due to precise hold locating by Mark20. And my shoulder hurt again after being mostly manageable for two weeks.

All in, a perfect call, well done Hadyn 

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news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by lukeyboy on Today at 07:20:04 pm »

Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.


Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard

HVS 7b?

That looks terrifying!

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news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by jwi on Today at 06:55:02 pm »

Crystal clear!

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power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by Aussiegav on Today at 05:55:23 pm »

Thanks Duncan

Monday -

Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs. 
4 hangs at a total weight 79kg.
2 hangs at 84.5kg.
Effort level 7/10

Tuesday
Elbow strength training

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 82.9kg. Felt good. 7/10 effort level
 
40min peloton Tabata ride



Friday

Saturday
Golden Wall
The wall &  the climbs were better than expected. Enjoyable afternoon with Phil.

Undiscovered Blacks   5c   Lead β
Poison Flowers 6a+ Lead β
Black Bryony   6b   Lead β
Blinkin' 'eck 6b+ Lead β
The Blicks   6b   Lead RP   failed Onsight, did next go
Really enjoyed Golden Wall. Did all bar 1 route which looked the worst of them all. Which I’d not return for, but overall, I’d recommend a visit if your operating in the 6’s and want a 4 hour session on rock.

Wanted to climb at 3new crags in the Peak this year. Done two already.


Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Gym
Upping the weights. Elbow strength increasing.

6

power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by monkoffunk on Today at 05:37:04 pm »

M - Yoga
T - Gym, deadlifts, weighted pull ups etc.
W - Yoga. Rest.
T - Few recruitment pulls and body weight hangs.

F - Portland in the evening. Back to the Snowflakes boulder to try the project along the lip. Worked the moves to warm up. After a couple of false starts to get back the knack for the first move, the problem went. Liberal Agenda, 7A+ first ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6ifTEnNJOn/?igsh=a2wxOXRkOGY2NmNz

A good line, probably overlooked due to its location off the beaten track (hidden in a pit) and somewhat awkward landed above a block. Then repeated Snowflakes, mostly for the grade comparison, but also adding proper blinkers at the top to just use the small crimps on the arête as per FA.

After this went to try a couple of 7Bs, Bordo Della Terra and Workshy. Bordo went well. Reassuringly I did almost all the moves on the 7B bit, and the moves I didn’t do were mostly on the start shared with a 6C+. Here my serious lack of finger tip skin integrity let me down. Not enough rock or plastic. Too much friendly wood.

Workshy somewhat further away, but still an improvement on when I tried it a few years ago! One move to do but it’s a proper crux, by far the hardest move on the problem, and essentially what the problem is all about. Perhaps not quite enough juice after everything else, will try again another day.

Definitely helped me to confirm that Snowflakes and Liberal Agenda are both in the 7A+ bracket and not hard for the grade. First move is a bit of a stopper though so I think 7A+ probably is justified.

S - Rest.
S - Yoga and rest

Very happy with the week, only my second first ascent and the other was eight years ago.

Going to take a few rest days now as been feeling the elbow extensors a little bit recently when training, nothing bad, but need a bit of a de-load.

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news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by Fultonius on Today at 05:25:46 pm »

Darth Grader reckons that converts into 8c+ route, and then running through E-Grader makes it Easy E11 with pads.

But since the 7B bit is the dodgey bit, maybe E6? Or would it be E4? Maybe E7? 

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music, art and culture / Re: Books...

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 04:47:15 pm »

I've just finished a book I think a lot of people here might enjoy (indeed, might have read already). In 1950s Togo, a young boy has a nearly deadly encounter with a snake, recovering he reads a book about Greenland and becomes obsessed with travelling there. In 1958, aged 16, he ran away from home and spent the next eight years working his way through Africa and Europe before eventually reaching Greenland in 1964. In Michel the Giant: An African in Greenland Tété-Michel Kpomassie tells the remarkable (true) story of that journey and, in particular, the eighteen months he spent living among the inidigenous Greenlanders, by whom he seems to have been welcomed without question. It is a rich, vivid, and humane portrayal both of the author as a young man and of a culture even then coming under immense pressure

Just finished this. Really enjoyed it, but thought/ hoped it would cover more of his amazing journey to get there than his time spent there. Either way, a fascinating and enjoyable read.

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music, art and culture / Re: Anyone seen any good films lately - Part the second

« Last post by ToxicBilberry on Today at 04:39:52 pm »

Deliver'd - https://www.bfi.org.uk/interviews/fanny-lye-deliverd-maxine-peake-thomas-clay-their-17th-century-folk-thriller

Shropshire based tale of sadism and liberation with a hint of mysticism, I'm interested to find out more about Quakers. A solid 6/10

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music, art and culture / Re: Books...

« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 04:36:35 pm »

It took me all of April and the first week of May but I finished the 1200 page beast that is The Count of Monte Cristo. I was daunted by it's vintage and girth but found it very very enjoyable. Accessible, if not verbose, writing. The only thing it needs is some spoiler-free reminders of who's who and what their personal history with the other characters is. A lot happens, everyone changes their names, and sometimes you have to think for a minute to remember some affair that two characters had 600 pages ago.