UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Jacqusie on April 03, 2007, 10:20:16 pm
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Not that I'm not as guilty as the next man - but fk me the state of some of our bouldering area's look bloody awfull - had a trip out to the Secret Garden the other day and the place looks an eyesore - chalk splats everywhere - no attempt to clean it off it seems and its ground into the rock...that and shit loads of litter everywhere (not blaming boulderers as such) but there was a fair bit of finger tape & fag ends all over the place too...
Not being sanctamonious - but take a brush & give the rock a tickle now and again between attemps & clean up a bit where you can peeps please!!
We have already had the Eagle Tor fiasco - lets not spoil anywhere else!!
Cheers
Si
BMC Peak Bouldering Access Rep
PS the lines at the Sheep pen (Higgar) look awesome - effort!
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i agree with that even though i am very bad for the fag ends bit but i allways take other litter home with me and agree with the fact that chalk should be brushed of as much as possible rather than leaving white patches all over the rock, another example for this is the bowerstone ladder face, i know it gets a lot off traffic and is surprisingly hard to clean the chalk of but we could all make a bit more of an effort. i do suppose i am as bad as everyone else for it tho, just realized i cant really say anything about chalk marks.
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Stuff that gets the rain usually washes off - but stuff like the Bowderstone etc - overhanging - needs brushing - I'm as guilty as you - but I do try to do my bit by bit...
- Litter always pisses me off tho & I hope its not climbers - but finger tape all over the place is not on IMHO...
si
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agreed - every time I go down the boulderfield I end up bring back more lucozade bottles and finger tape than I take in :wall:
it's just not acceptable and as for people crapping at the crag, well having a piss behind a tree is one thing having a crap is another totally, go before you leave and go again when you get home
without going on a hippy trip about it the rocks have been there longer than we have and will outlive us and messing up these areas with litter and excess chalk is as offensive as chipping, I'm sure everyone on here is so serious about the daft pastime of climbing small rocks that they respect the places they climb so this thread is probably preaching to the choir but those that don't respect the environment fuck it up for the rest of us and require a :spank:
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well having a piss behind a tree is one thing having a crap is another totally
It's twice as bad if my maths serves me correctly.
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I've seen top cimbers literally brushing chalk on holds - trying the problem & failing them fucking off. When I've asked if they are going to help clean the hold - most of the time I've been told that its going to be cleaned by the rain..
Par example - T Crack - Cratcliffe - Nah- use yr brains...
Its just senseless non?
si
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I think I have been guilty of seeing the Bowderstone as training and have never thought much about the caked on chalk. I take the spanking and will try and remember the impact we have....
I am not sure why it has not occured to me though as the bowderstone gets a lot of non climber attention unlike Kyloe or many other venues?
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Lets be realistic here. The only way to clean chalk off the Bowderstone would be by using a pressure washer. Toothbrushing will remove the loose stuff but have no effect on decades old caked n stuff.
A guy used to pressure wash the perma-dry Sydney crag Sissy on a regular basis i'm told. It worked well but was back to square one within a month or two.
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A guy used to pressure wash the perma-dry Sydney crag Sissy on a regular basis i'm told. It worked well but was back to square one within a month or two.
There are some pics in one of John Shermans books of people doing this kind of thing somewhere over the pond, sounds like a good idea to me for the 'stone at least.
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i agree that brushing the stone wont do much and know that a few of the locals have thought about pressure wasahing it but never actually done it due to lack of water and power without breaking into 1 of the huts.
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i hear that someone (pete robbins?) paid to have jerry's roof in the pass pressure washed. the anecdote goes that it was back to square one again in a few days. hardly seems woth it expect for the fact you can't put a value on a good anecdote like that.
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i agree that brushing the stone wont do much and know that a few of the locals have thought about pressure wasahing it but never actually done it due to lack of water and power without breaking into 1 of the huts.
You don't have to break in. Just ask the NMC, if that's still the club that owns the hut.
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Somebody kindly left an empty plastic bag at Burbage South today for me to put all the finger tape in - empty chalk balls and other shite including an old sock!
The non climbing arseholes that come out of the city and strew shite across the Peak - I kind of understand their mentality - they are fairly inbred after all - but climbers & boulderer's - there is no excuse - is there?
I am wondering of we need another Peak litter clean up - but part of me wonders why we should pick up other peoples shite and the last one saw 4 people turn up - all BMC volunteers - no one cares it seems...
Ah well.. cest' la vie!
si
:wall:
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While your intentions here are honourable, your view of climbers vs. non-climbers is very naive and frankly wrong.
As climbing has become more popular the old stereotype of environmentally aware, non team sport playing, sexually backward geeks who spent their school years yomping round the Yorkshire Dales doesn't ring true any more.
Because of the promotion and accesibility of climbing the number of climbers has risen so much that climbing as a community is increasingly resembling society at large. And that means more climbers who are arseholes.
With regard to litter picks the two I've been to at The Roaches have been well organised and well attended. I believe it was Dave Bishop (AndiT will know for certain) who organised them. Perhaps the advertising was done differently. There are plenty of people out there who are willing to help, it's just a matter of reaching them.
EDIT: I should make it clear I'm not suggesting Casanovas or those handy in front of goal are necessarily arseholes.
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Well - that may be true - I may be just hoping that its not climbers in the main that litter the crags - but then again who leaves chalk balls & finger tape everywhere??
The last Peak litter pick was well advertised through Jez Portman at Outside & the BMC - true it was a rank day - only good for litter picking I guess! Shame no one turned up!!
- We will organise another soon I hope.? Fair play to the Roaches clean up - Dave Bish is a top man...
Maybe we all just need to help out on a day to day basis and tell the twonks that litter - its not cricket - & pick up as much as we can -
cheers
si
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I'd join you at Burbage South but pretty sure the eco miles to get there from the North West would be too great to warrant a litter pick ;)
In all seriousness though, as SF says there are plenty of willing bodies out there. A message on here would work wonders I would imagine, and if there was one in the NW I'd make a point of going.
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BTW Si, if you want, you could ask Bubba and he'd put a special BMC Peak Bouldering Access Rep tag under your name and maybe have name and tag in gold. Just in case we forget your exalted status...
But yes, good to keep calling this, although it is a bit preaching to the converted on here.
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BTW Si, if you want, you could ask Bubba and he'd put a special BMC Peak Bouldering Access Rep tag under your name and maybe have name and tag in gold. Just in case we forget your exalted status...
That would be good - golds not my colour tho - kneel at my exalteness! I keep trying to resign - but they won't let me - fancy having the role & actually doing some kind of work for a change?
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The non climbing arseholes that come out of the city and strew shite across the Peak - I kind of understand their mentality - they are fairly inbred after all - but climbers & boulderer's - there is no excuse - is there?
That's a pretty shitty statement Si, and i believe Somebody's fool has put it very well already- there are certainly climbing arseholes about... but equally, being a non-climber doesn't make someone an enemy of the environment, or an arsehole ffs.
I think it's more a case of any arsehole :spank:
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I guess we should pick the litter up when we encounter it?
Holds can be cleaned by giving them a skoosh of water and then scrubbing with a toothbrush. Best done at the end of the day to prevent messing up someones send of a problem...
I've chinned people before about litter and bbq's etc and always had a positive response - if you look like you've been climbing a while, punters tend to see you as a role model and take your views on board...(as long as you approach the subject tactfully)
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Someone had pitched their tents right under Stall at Gib Torr at the weekend, proving climbers can be twats... :thumbsdown: :wank:
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Unbelivable!! I hope you ripped the pegs out and dragged the tent into the woods!?
I cant belive a climber would have pitched there tent there... MUPPETS
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No, there were a few of them, youths mostly, and i was on my bill so I didn't want to do anything...
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Did you get a go on Stall? It feels desperate for the grade to me.
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i agree with that even though i am very bad for the fag ends bit but i allways take other litter home with me and agree with the fact that chalk should be brushed of as much as possible rather than leaving white patches all over the rock.
Why can't u take your fag ends with you as well, I used to when i smoked in years yonder past. It pisses me off when you go out to some lovely boulders and some dick's left their fag butts underneath the problem, usually next to their finger tape remnants. :spank:
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We had a litter pick maybe two years ago at the Roaches, rounded off with Beer, a Quiz and Butties, it worked really well. We actually struggled to find much litter and had to really delve deep, the one we'd had a couple of years previous was much more fruitful. It was good to know that the place was staying clean. I think it's a bit like when you've done your washing up, you tend to keep the kitchen tidy for a while afterwards, I think this was the case the with Staffs. It would really stand out if you dropped some litter, so folk think twice (thankfully). I think it's a shame only 4 turned up for you.
As for camping at Gib, it does happen. Were they climbers or just kids on Easter break? People have been living in the woods for donkeys years.
Andi
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Yeh, there has been a carrier bag full of dog shit hung in a tree on the upper tier for a while now, nowone dares go near the thing tho! would have been better to leave the turd to the elements that bag it and leave it for all to see!
Im gonna sneak it into a tradders rucksac when there not looking next time I get the chance :lol:
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Yeah, I reckon I see more shits in bags than shits these days. Really annoying. That green bag needs to go.... As long as it's not this tradders bag!
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Did you get a go on Stall? It feels desperate for the grade to me.
No, that's why I was so annoyed.
Were they climbers or just kids on Easter break?
Both, by the looks of things. I saw a mat, anyway.
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I went to Turningstone today there was rubbish all at the top above the crag where someone had had a fire. Not sure if its climbers or not but it looked a state. Plus there were massive tick marks on ROL that should of been brushed off, i use tick marks like everyone but at least brush them off when your finished.
Apart from that Turningstone is a gem of a place with awesome views and good problems!
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gotta agree with andi there. went for a walk around dovestones last night and people had scooped the dog shit up, put it in a plastic bag and thrown it over the fence. there must have been 30 bags in 300 metres. do you know how much i had any intention of moving? absolutely none. oh and there was one wayward nappy, and a woman who ran round the reservoir 3 times
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I went to Turningstone today there was rubbish all at the top above the crag where someone had had a fire. Not sure if its climbers or not but it looked a state.
its a popular spot with local kids/yobbos. hence the rope swings, empty bottles of white lightening etc.
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. oh and there was one wayward nappy, and a woman who ran round the reservoir 3 times
was it hers.
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maybe, but it must have been that time of the month :spank:
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I went to Turningstone today there was rubbish all at the top above the crag where someone had had a fire. Not sure if its climbers or not but it looked a state.
its a popular spot with local kids/yobbos. hence the rope swings, empty bottles of white lightening etc.
Like Dave says. That clearing on top of the edge has been a camping spot for local youths at least since I was as school and has always been a bit of tip as a consequence. My bro used to go there with his sixth form mates, take acid and crawl around the Rhodie tunnels. I'm pretty confident it's not climbers
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maybe, but it must have been that time of the month :spank:
so thats why you weren't in the mood to clean up the bags of shit.
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My bro used to go there with his sixth form mates, take acid and crawl around the Rhodie tunnels. I'm pretty confident it's not climbers
Jeez - was your bro in 'nam Bonjoy? The Rhodie tunnels with a head full of acid getting busy on your mental processes for added value is not something that I would want to contemplate.
bluebrad
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Many years ago (...lights pipe, fetches slippers, tartan rug and Andrew's Liver Salts...) I arrived at the Hallowed Ground of Minus Ten Wall at Stoney Middleton. The mess was incredible: finger tape, chalk block wrappers, fag ends, empty drinks cans, chocolate wrappers and -- the piece de resistance --a medium sized human turd gaily decorated with a strip of colourful toilet paper. Unfortunately for the miscreant, there was also the plastic wrapper and address label that used to come with your subscription copy of a well-known climbing comic. "Revenge will be mine!" I thought, as I carefully scooped all the offending detritus into a plastic bag ( I used to carry a litter bag with me when I went to Stoney in those days) before posting it back to the originator with a pithy little note that read "Don't shit in my back yard!".
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Ha ha ha! - a :beer1: goes to you!!
Si
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dense did a poo in font and let the breeze wipe his bum.. eeeeurgh!!!
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I found a human turd under a rock positioned at the end of the Greener traverse by the wall a couple of weeks ago!
Would have been better for all if the culprit had dropped the kids off on the other side of the wall... I dosent take much thought!
Thats the whole problem, people who drop litter and make a mess just dont give a damn, theres not alot anyone can do apart from confronting them when caught in the act!
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Seems like the main point of this thread has been missed...
PS the lines at the Sheep pen (Higgar) look awesome - effort!
Why thank you. I'll take credit for the right-hand line, I believe. Have to go and try to do John Welford's line up the middle and see how wildly undergraded it is. Doesn't look Font 7a to me. Anyone been and done any of the problems?
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just been in albarracin which unfortunatley seems to be plaged by bits of white shitty bogroll in the same way that font is. unbelievable. I lay the blame squarely at the door of johnny-euro-foreigner. Its not like this in the peak, nor in squamish from what i can recall. I figure since most toilets in france are no more than holes in the ground they figure its just ok to squat down and shit on the floor anywhere they fancy at the crag. you woulnd't let your dog do that over here for fucks sake. i don't see why theres any reason to shit at the crag except for the odd upset stomach/medical emergency. and even then go as far from any paths or problems as possible, not just under the nearest 7b roof. people like that will end up getting places like albarracin banned completely.
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Seems like the main point of this thread has been missed...
PS the lines at the Sheep pen (Higgar) look awesome - effort!
Why thank you. I'll take credit for the right-hand line, I believe. Have to go and try to do John Welford's line up the middle and see how wildly undergraded it is. Doesn't look Font 7a to me. Anyone been and done any of the problems?
Any piccys - looks blank and a full on top out!
si
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just been in albarracin which unfortunatley seems to be plaged by bits of white shitty bogroll in the same way that font is. unbelievable. I lay the blame squarely at the door of johnny-euro-foreigner. Its not like this in the peak, nor in squamish from what i can recall. I figure since most toilets in france are no more than holes in the ground they figure its just ok to squat down and shit on the floor anywhere they fancy at the crag. you woulnd't let your dog do that over here for fucks sake. i don't see why theres any reason to shit at the crag except for the odd upset stomach/medical emergency. and even then go as far from any paths or problems as possible, not just under the nearest 7b roof. people like that will end up getting places like albarracin banned completely.
The amount of shit there is unbelievable. Hope that the trip went well though
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cheers, it was great apart from the 3" of snow on the first day.
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Did you and cofe find a hotel to stay in?
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hotels, yes. but only after most of the town bailed cos of the snow. i've never seen a campsite empty so fast.
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Went to Rumble Butress today at Burbage and was looking forward to trying some stuff out there - untill I arrived and man was there a sight for a small craglet that not many people go to...
Shit loads of litter around - and huge chalk ball marks on the holds on the slab to the right - like it had been set out dot to dot. On a boulder someone had used a chalk ball to make a pretty picture and I felt so pissed off I took the litter and went up to Carl Walk.... That most popular place for townies and bumblies...
No litter - no chalk - just plenty of nice lines.... so what gives?
Burbage South boulders were full of empty bags - bottles and shed loads of finger tape as usual - why can't people just take home the shit they produce?!
Annoyed Si
:wall:
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why can't people just take home the shit they produce?!
Because they are lazy, inconsiderate ba***rds?
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Got a BMC Peak Meeting on Thursday - I think I may just vent my spleen and ask for DNA testing kits to track down the so said bastards and make them do a litter pick of the peak - I'm fucking sick of tidying up after people many of which have to be climbers ... grrrrr
...need to calm down - had a nice evenings bouldering after all!! :-[
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Because they are lazy, inconsiderate ba***rds?
I've got an image in my head of loads of little Shakespeares cruising the Peak's crags chucking litter about and just generally being arseholes. Thinking they're special because someone has put three stars in their job description.
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Fool: that is very clever. You saw my incredibly intellectual jape. Well done. GO OutSidE and tell the first person you see :lol:
It's a sad state but I take a special "other-people's-litter" bag when I go out. There's a lot of lackadaisical Shakespeares out there.
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** bards top? is that like william's problem but from a move in?
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We'll have none of that nonsense in this establishment. Any more problems from you, and you're bard.
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Got a BMC Peak Meeting on Thursday - I think I may just vent my spleen and ask for DNA testing kits to track down the so said bastards and make them do a litter pick of the peak - I'm fucking sick of tidying up after people many of which have to be climbers ... grrrrr
...need to calm down - had a nice evenings bouldering after all!! :-[
The twats that were up at Owler Tor earlier in the week need a serious slap, fuckin chalk everywhere. Fair enough if they want to climb on grit in the sunshine but for fucksake have they not heard of a brush? The path up there wasnt much better either..... rubbish all over the place and some family thought it would be a good idea to scrawl the names of every family member on a boulder. Cunts :furious:
Good evening otherwise, thank fuck for light nights :thumbsup:
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Why thank you. I'll take credit for the right-hand line, I believe. Have to go and try to do John Welford's line up the middle and see how wildly undergraded it is. Doesn't look Font 7a to me. Anyone been and done any of the problems?
[/quote]
Whats t' crack up there - whats been done and whats not & whats the grade - if you don't mind kind sir -
Cheers
Si
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Whats t' crack up there - whats been done and whats not & whats the grade - if you don't mind kind sir -
Cheers
Si
(http://www.apeindex.com/images/SheepFoldLines.jpg)
Left to right the lines are...
Blue: Unknown name, FA John Welford, Font 7a but he says it's scrittly and not great.
Green: Unknown name, FA Jon Barton, Font 7a
Yellow, Unknown name, FA John Welford, Font 7a (looks harder to me)
Red: Here Be Dragons, FA me, Font 6c
And here's Jon on HBD to illustrate the steepness. Excellent problem. Anyone repeated any of these?
(http://www.apeindex.com/images/HereBeDragons-Jon.jpg)
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I have a dog. When it has a poo in a public place (in the park, or the street, or anywhere where somebody wearing their new shoes might step in it) I pick said jobby up in one of those little plastic bags and take it to the nearest bin where I dispose of it. When the dog is at the crag it normally buggers off somewhere secluded and quiet for a shit, and provided its well out of the way I'll cover it up with some leaves and let nature do its work.
Here's my beef. If your dog has a poo and you don't want to carry a bag of shit around until you can find somewhere to dispose of it, don't put it in a plastic bag. I can't believe idiots who hermetically seal their dogs turds in plastic and then just throw it over a wall or in a bush somewhere. Instead of the poo rotting away in a couple of days, its sealed in a bag for the eternity it will take the plastic bag to rot! I hate people who do this - it smacks of the most crass stupidity I have ever witnessed. :wank:
...and anyway, a nice fresh dog egg bagged up and popped in your pocket is a great way of warming your fingers up on the way to the crag in winter...... :whistle:
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Cheers Mark - that central line looks nails & I agree - maybe an undergraded Welford offering!
Couldn't HBD go more direct you reckon tho?!
If you need you tips warming before hand you can always use Percy's patent dog poo warmer!
:goodidea:
Si
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...and anyway, a nice fresh dog egg bagged up and popped in your pocket is a great way of warming your fingers up on the way to the crag in winter...... :whistle:
xcuse me while I quietly vom in the corner.
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Couldn't HBD go more direct you reckon tho?!
If you need you tips warming before hand you can always use Percy's patent dog poo warmer!
:goodidea:
Si
Seldom say never but the direct lacks anything like holds I could use.
Remind me never to shake hands with Percy.
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...and anyway, a nice fresh dog egg bagged up and popped in your pocket is a great way of warming your fingers up on the way to the crag in winter.....
I thought my hand smelt funny after he gave me my change at the works the other day :whistle: