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1
shootin' the shit / Re: Eggcorns
« Last post by SamT on Today at 02:11:47 pm »

Similarly, a guy at work (now left) once said (on one of his many sick days) he was 'shitting through an ivory needle'.

to which we replied, you mean shitting through the eye of a needle?

"nah mate, its nottingham slang"..  how we lauged.  :lol: :lol:  :wall:
2
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 02:10:12 pm »
"attempt to" - which it does with reasonable success for 95%of the routes in the country. Yet everyone seems to be focus on the two tiny flat end of the bell curve. You know, the bell ends ;)
3
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by remus on Today at 01:53:58 pm »
Someone should have stuck that in a guide or something. I think I would have found it useful to know back when I climbed on grit quite a lot... Now you say it it does make some sense, but if you started climbing somewhere without many micro routes it's not obvious. I'm also not entirely sure that's how it's used round the country? I don't recall micro routes in Avon feeling like they used that system, but maybe I'm misremembering.

Handily most guides do include a few paragraphs on grades:

Quote from: BMC Roaches Guide 2009
The system of grading for routes in this volume is the traditional British style, a combination of adjectival and technical grades, and assumes the leader has a normal rack, including standard camming devices, nuts, slings, quickdraws etc. The adjectival grade is the first part of the grade, and attempts to give an overall sense of the difficulty of a climb. This will be influenced by many aspects.

Being a massive dweeb I've gone and checked a few other guides and they all include very similar wording (Rockfax eastern grit, CC South Devon, CC Dartmoor, The Sheffield-Stanage area 1970 reprint, Peak Limestone South 1987, Moorland Gritstone Chew Valley 1988, Derwent Valley 1981).

You could be forgiven for thinking the adjectival grade is widely understood to "give an overall sense of the difficulty of a climb".
4
chuffing / Re: Does E4 for WSS make sense?
« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 01:41:19 pm »
Font6B into existing top of WSS: E3 6a
Font6C into existing top of WSS: E3 6b
Font7A into existing top of WSS: E3 6b/c
Font7B into existing top of WSS: E4 6c


It really is that simple.
5
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 01:25:20 pm »
A plague in both his houses clearly.
6
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by northern yob on Today at 01:17:42 pm »
2nd home wanker….. in north wales too, I can feel another great debate coming on. 😂
7
chuffing / Re: Does E4 for WSS make sense?
« Last post by northern yob on Today at 01:15:56 pm »
Exactly although with regards liz truss’s economic policy  I might be a little more like fultonius….. incredulous at the idea anyone could truly believe that it might be a good idea…
8
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by andy moles on Today at 01:08:39 pm »
They’re both five minutes from his house.

Is his house bifurcated by a rupture in the fabric of space?  :-\
9
chuffing / Re: Does E4 for WSS make sense?
« Last post by andy moles on Today at 01:02:17 pm »
I love grades it’s like politics there’s no right or wrong just different opinions.

In which case perhaps E4 for WSS is something akin to Liz Truss's economic policy - not right or wrong, just...a different opinion.
10
chuffing / Re: Does E4 for WSS make sense?
« Last post by northern yob on Today at 12:56:44 pm »
JB seems to be pretty much the sole advocate for E4 making any sense with the tech grade of 7a....does anyone else agree with him?


He’s not actually doing that…. He was explaining why historically it got that, and the reasons behind that…. Maybe you’ll just have to let it go! I’m sure there will be other E4’s out there you can’t do…. It doesnt mean they aren’t E4…. Although they might not be..🤣I love grades it’s like politics there’s no right or wrong just different opinions.
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