UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on September 13, 2015, 03:49:42 pm
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10.11-12
M.
T. Malham Noon. Car full of wads - two 8c climbers and a 9a+ climber and me. Hoping for primo conditions. It was coolish but not perfect as wind not catching the crag. Draws and rope already in the Oak (Tom). Midge count was lower than recently. Warmed up leading F&EE then Consenting x 3. Dogged up Oak. Go1 didnt climb fluidly but got to fumble the horn Go2 Got to horn but messed up going for sloper - too focussed on getting the thumb catch and forgot to pull with my right arm. Bit of a temperature drop. Stu did Rainshadow. :punk: Go3 Got to shake and clipped 4th bolt for first time ever!! felt good and shook out feeling a 100% confident I would do it - launched on the moves out left but was a bit untidy with a couple of foot placements then suddenly lost body tension coming into the sidepull on the redpoint crux and was off :furious:. Devastated. Belayed Mina then went for a walk round the top of the Cove to calm down Go 4 Felt tired from the off but fumbled the horn - bit distracted by Stu and Steve exchanging shouting beta with Stu on Steve's project Go 5 Asked Steve to give me 3 mins quiet Managed to get through to my new highpoint but utterly busted this time so no way was I going to do the the snatch in for the sidepull Go6 ! Getting dark now - managed to fumble horn Rest on rope then did throw to falling off the redpoint crux due to foot poppage then very short rest and did large undercut to top. Drove back with a car full of Wads one 8c climber, one 9a climber ;D and one 9a+ climber
W. Busted
T. Slightly less busted
F. Malham with Steve Mac. Warm. Probably 5 degrees warmer than tues but catching a breeze and the air felt fresh but on the rock somehow was weirdly slippery and chalk felt like talc. Cons x 3. Put clips in. Go 1 Managed to get to top traverse but fingers greasy Go 2 Touched horn Go 3 Touched horn but felt busted Went for a walk round the top of the Cove to regroup Go 4 Put in a massive effort and got to the top traverse again with a bit of power screeching
S.
S.
Seminal week.
Was in a reflective mood and recorded my thoughts this afternoon :-\ Its quite long and detailed. You have been warned.
https://youtu.be/8M-lt8OTJLw
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All it needs is an Islamic State banner in the background Simon... ;) is it safe to watch?
(ps. Don't give up!)
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Epic. Literally. Roll on next week's report.
:popcorn:
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Nice one Shark :strongbench: :strongbench: what you going to do after the Oak??
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Nice one Shark... what you going to do after the Oak??
eat some of Dave's croissant bread and butter pudding
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I just watched it Simon - its interesting. But I was intrigued that you never really touch on the psychological issues, both of having such a long-term project, but also how you handle feeling that is now very close?
Most of all though, good luck tomorrow. All power to you!
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All it needs is an Islamic State banner in the background Simon... ;) is it safe to watch?
(ps. Don't give up!)
"Eyup you unbelieving kuffar bastards...."
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I just watched it Simon - its interesting. But I was intrigued that you never really touch on the psychological issues, both of having such a long-term project, but also how you handle feeling that is now very close?
Most of all though, good luck tomorrow. All power to you!
Its odd. I feel quite relaxed about it at the moment. The struggle to get strong/good enough to do the route is behind me now. I don't feel wound up, at least not yet, in the way K3 drove me mad. Im not under any time pressure as the route should be in good nick for a while yet.
Nice one Shark :strongbench: :strongbench: what you going to do after the Oak??
Dont want to be presumptious though I do have a cunning plan...
Here's a video of my first redpoint go on Friday
https://youtu.be/mr0-EHnRXLY
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All it needs is an Islamic State banner in the background Simon... ;) is it safe to watch?
(ps. Don't give up!)
I've done the Oak banner in background for next episode. Good luck on Monday :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
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Climb faster Simon - you look over deliberate in the lower sections (the first 5 moves take you 30 secs)... Watching Ben Moon on thingy whatsit, he fair romped up the first part..
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Climb faster Simon - you look over deliberate in the lower sections (the first 5 moves take you 30 secs)... Watching Ben Moon on thingy whatsit, he fair romped up the first part..
A typical boulderer's observation.
You have to be really precise on the footholds and handholds on the start of this especially on Friday when it was greasy. If I went fast it would screw up my breathing too. I have to keep things smooth so I have enough power in reserve to execute the throw move. A stronger climber's strategy might be to move faster because the throw move isn't especially hard for them. They would also be better off using a slightly different sequence which is quicker but harder.
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Well you should have posted on a sports climbing forum then :p
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Well you should have posted on a sports climbing forum then :p
:furious:
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[quote author=shark link=topic=26303.msg499499#msg499499 date=1442163872
Its odd. I feel quite relaxed about it at the moment. The struggle to get strong/good enough to do the route is behind me now. I don't feel wound up,
[/quote]
Nice - not easy to achieve but definitely the best way to be, if possible.
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Less glibly I know climbing fast for me can ruin my composure - but it's what ultimately dragged me across weed killer (which is the closest thing to a route in terms of endurance In my locker :) )
More about flow than speed if that makes sense. Anyway - good effort and glad you're progressing.. Relax and have fun on Monday..
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:o Excellent Simon. :strongbench: That monologue would be great cut with footage of you on the route or, failing that, dubbed over some ambient techno. ;D
Psyche-filled week. Setting myself a serious long-term goal as a result.
STG- 100 routes at 24HHH and a 12b on imminent Arkansas trip.
MTG- E3 & 7A+ on grit in the coming season.
LTG- 8a before 40. Raindogs appeals the most.
M- Rest.
Tu- Planned to go to the wall for some pre-trip power-boosting bouldering but traffic on return from work and sorting out picture of 9a Stu for the nation's climbing media 8) ate up time. Did some home training for the first time since June (when film editathon took up all my climbing time and I had a strong desire to assess how weak I'd got) instead. 30 pull-ups in 3 sets of 10 (in June I could only do 6 in a set) 30 pushups (in June 20 made me feel sick) and some situps. Looks like I've got stronger from just going climbing.
W- Rest. DOMS in abdomen and triceps
Th- Notts Depot. Just bouldering, no more than two goes at any problem to get variety and guard against injury. Flashed almost all of the reds ("V3-V5" I think), but couldn't pull onto most of the yellows (next hardest)! Probably an accurate reflection of the effects of sport climbing all the time- consolidation at a certain level of difficulty and inaptitude at the sort of weird tension moves you have to do to start harder indoor problems.
F- Rest. As sore as usual after indoor climbing.
Sa- In Hull.
Su- In Hull- marathon support for girlfriend. She did it in 3:44:22 which I believe is pretty good, especially as it was her first one and her target was simply "under 4 hours"! She was certainly in much better shape afterwards than lots of the runners (mainly men) who'd been ahead for most of the race but crashed in the last mile and finished after her :sick: Learnt quite a lot about how physically and mentally gruelling these things are- a mixed feeling as it reaffirmed my plans not to ever run one and also brought home to me the similarities between something like this and the 24-hour climbing event I'll be doing in less than a fortnight! :look: Inspired by my girl's performance though. :wub: Hopefully she'll stop eating giant platefuls of carbs now.
Flying to the US on Friday so that's it for climbing and training 'til then. I'll probably leave Powerclub for a bumper report when I get back. I'm also planning to shoot a film about the trip.
I reckon I'm well prepared- I did my hardest redpoint a month ago, don't seem disastrously weak at bouldering and should be able to climb for 24 hours, even if the 100 pitches are all very short and easy. I've gone almost four weeks without eating anything with sugar in now and I'm pretty much down to my fighting weight (more than half a stone down from my filmmaking weight in May) as a result.
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Have a great trip Cheque!
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Great effort Shark
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STG: get over cold, don't get injured, finger-boarding or bouldering twice a week.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.
M -
T -
W - Fingerboard warm-up
T - Fingerboard warm-up & micro strength session
F - Shoulder rehab. / prehab. stuff
S - Fingerboard warm-up & micro strength session
S -
All change. After two years of largely focusing on endurance it's time to start making a serious attempt to improve my strength-to-weight ratio. Full of cold all week, so gently does it with some very, very easy fingerboarding.
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Goals: probably don't really need to say at this point.
M - work
T - work. Would normally have trained on the board but could see a chance to get to Harmer Wed evening.
W - Harmers. Another futile session on the project, though still getting as close as I have ever done. Conditions were pretty poor again; still and humid.
T - full on work scenes
F - good finger board session, almost unable to hang anything by the end.
S - nowt, work
S - What a lovely day. I was parked up at the White House pub to walk to Stony Edge just after 10. The walk is deliciously flat ... but long. Nearly an hour. It was a beautiful day, high blue skies, and warm sun and cool breeze and the moors almost empty. Arrived first at the RB slab.
Started on RB (5+) then Delicat (6A) both lovely and more substantial than videos make them look, followed by the delightful Dance Me to the End of Time (5+). I hadn't intended trying Elf and Safety (7A+) and a first feel of the holds wasn't encouraging. But it was right there. Three goes later it was done, to my surprise. From the top spotted a nice looking nose up and right. Wandered up and did Acres of Shakers (6A+) followed by Ephemeral (7A) in a couple of goes. One of those ones were you just have to improvise, and wonder how you're still on. A quick trot right and I nipped up Lust is Downward Slope (6B+), a tough pull off the ground and quality rock. Going to pick up stuff still at the RB boulder I couldn't resist Beach Mechanics (7A) and got the flash. I had thought stuff on the Big One would be my main target but I hadn't even seen it yet. Wandered over and gave Longship (7A) a couple of goes but was definitely starting to tire. Scraped my way up The Kingdom of Slope (6B+) in several goes - definitely hard for the grade. Finally made it up to the back edge; A is for Aardvark (6A), Flute Note (6B) and Gritworm (6A) had me totally finished. Felt beasted by the time I'd trudged back to the car. Got that great all over ache now.
Then I came home and made some fantastic roast potatoes.
I want to say a massive thanks to Robin for producing the guide, its opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me that are tantalising close to home. These may not be the most major crags in the world but they all have a real charm and everyone of them has more than enough gems. I didn't do a bad problem today.
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Good luck tomorrow Simon! Crush it, well impressed you getting up to your new highpoint
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Well you should have posted on a sports climbing forum then :p
:furious:
He said "expresso" in the coffee thread once too.
UPDATE: ok, it wasn't actually in the coffee thread.
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Was in a reflective mood and recorded my thoughts this afternoon :-\ Its quite long and detailed. You have been warned.
Needs more of the bit of you at the beginning going to and from the microphone, but speeded up.
STG: cross something, anything, off my large and growing collection of redpoint projects
MTG (2015): redpoint two more 7a’s and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)
M: rest
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Of late at bouldering walls I've mostly just bouldered around my onsight level to warm up, then done PE circuits. Last weekend it became clear to me that I actually need to get stronger so need to try some proper bouldering. But I also had sore fingers from the weekend so had to focus the session on slopers & volume wrestling, which are very much not my specialist subjects. Came away feeling weak and frustrated. This will do me good if I keep it up.
W: Mobility / knee physio / kettlebell TGUs, swings, rows
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Same session as Tuesday with an encouragingly higher success rate.
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering. This was a mistake. Had planned to get a couple of hours real bouldering in at Kochel in the morning before family duties, but when I woke up the weather was damp & cloudy so I went to the wall instead. Then it turned out glorious and I was indoors. Had a decent session indoors though, so it could have been worse.
S: am: knee & shoulder prehab, mobility etc.
pm: walk with M jnr in the woods. Had a look at Munich's traditional local bouldering spot at Baierbrunn: frequented by a hundred years of local wads from Hans Dülfer to Toni Lamprecht and polished accordingly. Still, it looks worth a visit or two on the basis that rock is always better than plastic.
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That monologue would be great cut with footage of you on the route or, failing that, dubbed over some ambient techno. ;D
This especially. It was interesting, if all a bit disturbing. I did like 18:15 tho!
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I want to say a massive thanks to Robin for producing the guide, its opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me that are tantalising close to home. These may not be the most major crags in the world but they all have a real charm and everyone of them has more than enough gems. I didn't do a bad problem today.
Cheers Andy. I love it up there, and it's been great sharing these places through the guidebook. Sounds like a great day out!
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84.2Kg
M - School lunch. Campus session. 1-4-7 on both arms, though struggling a bit on the right. Trying single hard moves on the 50 degree.
T -
W - School lunch. Mainly 50 degree. Repeated Woodology for the first time since December and v close on Mr Blobby. Close on 1-5-8 on the right.
T - Badger Cove. 5th session. Took Eric for his first UK climbing session after 6 months travelling around the States. Warmed up at BMD and did A Lack of Colour. Felt good. Light was fading fast on arrival at BC so lamp on. Conditions became increasingly mint - exactly what had been lacking earlier in the summer. Got fully in the top pocket 5 times but right foot cutting and couldn't hold the swing. Struggling a bit with the light too. Went home somewhat excited as felt very close.
F -
S - 2-year anniversary of breaking my heel falling off the top of County Ethics at Back Bowden.
S - Mother in law visiting, so a rare 4.5 hour afternoon slot. Warmed up at BWD, which was dry as some apprehension about potential gop. Got to BC and abbed in cleaning the top off again and checking the last couple of moves. Decided to take phone footage (not something I routinely do). Got in the pocket quite quickly but then started to go downhill a bit and looking for something, anything to make the difference. Abbed down again and held the top pocket, reaching back to the 3-finger dish I realised if I was going to hold the swing, I needed to get my stronger back 3 in the top pocket. Gave the dish a good clean. A couple more attempts and time was starting to run out. Stopped filming. Started to feel more relaxed in that 'I'm probably not gonna do it' way. Then got the dish and it felt better but fumbled the top pocket. Next go - BOOM! Friction on the dish felt better and back 3 are in the top pocket, right foot stays on and that's it. Make the next couple of moves (glad I'd practiced them on a rope), screamed and jumped off.
Crap phone footage of an earlier attempt when I didn't do it...
https://vimeo.com/139135570
Not that it matters (yeah right) but some of the 8B wads who've done Badger x 3 rate it as 'hard' 8A. The only 8As I've done have been soft, traverses or in the Cave (i.e. PE). So this is my hardest bloc to date ;D
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Effort tb!
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S - Delicat (6A) Dance Me to the End of Time (5+). I Elf and Safety (7A+) Acres of Shakers (6A+) Ephemeral (7A) Lust is Downward Slope (6B+), Beach Mechanics (7A) Longship (7A) The Kingdom of Slope (6B+) A is for Aardvark (6A), Flute Note (6B) and Gritworm (6A)
Great problem names too!
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Isn't it Elfin Safe Tea?
Longship is great, 7A seems very steep for a very hard pull off a mono! Did you try Argle Bargle and Bargle Blaster?
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Nice one Tom
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After the high of getting on some routes, had a crap week
M - Can't remember, I think nothing.
T - Edinburgh for Foos. Only exercise was walking to stadium from city centre
W - Short bike ride in evening (about an hour) but light died.
T - nothing got home and worked all night, got to bed at 3am, price you pay for taking time off and leaving work for people to do in your absence.
F - Knackered but did some weights.Weight 13 st 0.3 STG achieved!
S - Theraband routine. Overdid it a bit, took some skin off the between thumb and finger.
S - Very short bike ride, chain snapped 10 mins in, couldn't be hooped dicking about with chain splitter, so freewheeled home.
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Effort TB (again!) and brilliant Simon.
STG: Re-hab bicep tendon, E5 slabs.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.25 years)
M. Ill/rundown
T. Ill/rundown. 10 bicep curls with 3.5Kg
W. Pass - Solo'd Crackstone Rib. Slate - Solo'd Californian Arete. Hadn't climbed either before, thought a 'severe' trade route would be fine to solo onsight, and it was, but still ended up going too high and off route at the top, had to downclimb back onto line which made it more interesting than it might have been. Eccentric curls 3 x 10 8Kg. V,floss.
T. Course in Fleetwood. Visited Thorn Crag in the evening and did all the easier slabby stuff on Crag Boulders, multiple laps on Burning Heather. Beautiful venue, rock and solitude. Felt like I was the last person alive on the planet. 'My Next Trick' looks brilliant, shame I can't risk bicep on it. Random solitary purple star ballon floated silently past on an air cushion from east to west across the moors as I started to walk down. Sort of summed up the place.
F. Course Fleetwood.
S. Shoulder press 3 x 10. Shoulder raises 3x10. Curls 3x10. All 3.5Kg. Eccentrics 3x10 8Kg. V.floss.
S. V.floss. Llanfairfechan Quarry to sample two of the new routes including Harold Walmsey's mega-classic arete. Death blocks and good climbing, as I expected. Once cleaned to make them safer they'll be recomendable.
Bicep tendon making very slow progress. Doubt I'll be able to train hard for winter.
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M - Rest / Antag
T - Rest / Antag
W - Indoor bouldering, flash V5
T - Burbage bouldering, managed two V0's before midgey darkness hell
F - Sport @ Stoney West, consolidation day, lots of F6c onsight & they felt steady
S - Rest
S - Indoor, basic circuits just to keep ticking over. V5 onsight
Will have an easy week now, then hopefully good weather for a successful weekend
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Simon that's a great breakthrough, good to see! If my experience of progress on the route is anything to go by then you'll probably get a move or a half move further along the traverse each time over the next x sessions and then nail it first time you breakthrough to the jug at the end of the traverse.
For the next foot move after the move you fall on in the vid, where you have to pop your right foot into the vague scoop/dish next to the left foot, I found on redpoint that I really had to force my body to go against what it wanted to do (sag out/down) and force myself to sag out a tiny bit then flick my hips inward/upward to generate the momentum to release the right foot and bring it across and into the hold net to the left foot.. Always felt like I was going to fall off that move, but it always stuck.
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Have a great trip Cheque!
Thanks Tom! :hug:
this is my hardest bloc to date ;D
:strongbench:
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Sorry, three weeks' worth here
Mon: post work drop van off at garage in Fife due to mystery oil leak
Tues: campus, oil leak not yet resolved
Weds: wall session, van still not ready
Thur: van still not ready, despite best efforts of mechanic to resolve. Due to drive to France Friday lunchtime.
Fri: get call from garage just as I finish work that the leak is fixed. Repair bill is somehow tiny. The mechanic is a true hero. Blast down the road a couple of hours later than planned.
Sat: ferry easily accessible using a2/m2. Get to grez just about on time, only delay being on the (French) A1. It's roasting.
Sun: franchard isatis for warm up session. Roasting. Anna managed composition des forces direct for the first time. Have to give the wee boy two cold bucket baths in a row to try and cool him down in the afternoon and pre-bedtime.
Mon: Rocher canon too tired to climb at all. Still roasting but at least the rain finally arrived shortly after returning back to camp. Get a sare coupon spotting anna on les calins de Kim.
Wtf is going on with French supermarkets? Fruit and veg are almost prohibitively expensive and the snacks etc the opposite. At the carrefour there must be about 7 aisles of toxic snackage, which is about 7 times what they even have in a British asda. Maybe the French live on this crap because the real food is too dear.
Tues: raining overnight, so lazy start. Wee man back to normal temperature. Have an easy shopping /getting stuff sorted day
Weds: Sabot for salle gosse attempts. Wee bit damp so leave it alone. Anna manages l'oblique (how many years later ) for her first post Sam font font 7a and also a red problem and blue problem at the warm up area which previously had eluded her.
Thurs: apremont envers. Trying welcome to tj. Far from primo conditions. Both anna and I manage clandestino (7b) which exits slightly left of tj. It's angry French driver day. Is this the end of their holidays or something?
Fri: anna broken from previous day siege. We head to isatis so I can try de vita beata. It takes an age (6hours) before I sort the beta out and am too broken to succeed, but manage it in wee (tiny) overlaps. Hopefully head back after a rest day.
Sat: rest day. a drizzly start clears up and we had to 95.2 to look at symbiose. Anna works it well but thinks it may have to be for another trip. Anna then does retour aux sources double quick.
Sun: we had to isatis so I can resume my siege. I get really nervous trying it for the camera and rapidly go downhill. After a rest and some food I try again but am no better. I decide to just practice the start since it isn't going to happen today. Well, I stick the sloper, paste my feet up, high right foot, left toe hook and before you can say pfft I top out with no footage, but am stoked to have done my first 8a in the forest for 8 years. i try to reapeat it for video, but again am not getting the sloper well. i climb it a dew times in a row from one hand on the undercut, one hand on the sloper, so Anna can get a photo sequence, but all we got are photos of some grey haired geezer who looks a lot older than i imagine i do.
Mon: we head to tj and get good beta from an older keen climber, who makes light work of the 7c traverse. I manage it (tj) after several attempts and Anna gets some links on it but is way too tired to feel good on it. We had to l'apparemont but I feel sore just looking at it. We're both wrecked and decide to take a rest day the following day.
Tue: rest day, go into font and hunt out a crepe nutella
Wed: envers for tj again. Anna close on early attempts then downhill from then on. we're both getting too tired without needing more than one rest day. i try el paso, but it's both nails and log, so stop trying. both of us do the other 7a and 7a+ on the same block to finish off.
Anna then persuades me to go back to extra balle, which i haven't tried since chickening out on it (maybe 10) years ago. i psyche myself out trying to downclimb the dirty slab to get to the slopers to clean them, but decide to try it anyway, only a little nervously. It's a proper desert island climb for me, given the jump-catch start etc. anyway, it takes several attempts to catch the edges and the first time i do i chicken out because the slopers above are well greasy. i brush them for a bit and have another go, catching the edges terribly, but well enough to campus on and with much encouragement from Anna, commit to the high feet and top out for glory :D
I know it's not the hardest problem of the trip, but it's the one I'm proudest of. have footage, will upload soon.
Thurs: Rocher Canon: Anna does a final 7 for the holiday and so do i. then we head for tasty carrefour ice cream to celebrate and get the stuff ready to head home.
Fri: drive to englandshire
Sat: attend wedding in englandshire
Sun: drive home (with minor (van) breakdown at Scotch corner)
It's been a good font trip all in all, was lovely (sunny) weather for the most part and whilst not achieving all we had hoped, we still managed to get up some good stuff without getting too mired down in siege mode.
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Good stuff rodma, T_B, andy & shark.
STG - I just want to go climbing, partners, weather & workload not aligning atm
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring
M - rest
T - Eva Lopez stylee (but not quite) max hangs, weighted pullups, rowing sprints finisher
W - Woke up with a sore achilles, no doubt from the rowing, still sore now. FoC @ 40s rest , failed move 18 of 20 final rep. Target achieved, finished with FoC for this block. Aerocap in PM, not sure why (might have been rereading Stu's blog)
Th rest
F - Quick boulder then Max hangs, new PB of 90kg. Weighted pullups, Deadlifts.
S New 4x4 circuit.
S rest
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STG Get a job and move out of the midlands
LTG 8A 8b
M. Interview in Harrogate. 2 hours, quite intense with a 30 min test. Still awaiting a reply (have chased it up, decision not been reached...). Dropped in at the Tor on my way home. Did A Little Extra Start and Weedkiller Traverse:
https://vimeo.com/138689792
T. Wall, BBC. One arm hangs routine. All hangs except straight arm were unassisted, BM 2000 central incut edge.
W. Wall, BBC. 30 mins campus board, couldn't quite do 147, but its been months since I did any campussing.
T. Wall, BBC. New red circuit 6C/7A.
F.
S.
S. Press ups and shoulder exercises at home
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Lot of good stuff going on. Good luck and well done Simon. Have a good holiday Cheque. Nice reports, too numerous to mention.
STG - Get from 75.0kg down to 74.5kg by the end of September.
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice, but I'll happily settle for a sackfull of 5+/6A stuff in a variety of styles.
LTG - 7A by 50 ( 6 years to go)
M-T - Sore and resting. Did some shoulder stuff.
W - Indoors, Arkose, lots of volume. lots of easy stuff. Shoulders seem O.K.
Th - more bamboo twirling
F - BM session repeaters jugsx2, 4-finger deep, 3-finger deep, 4-finger deep, jugs. Failed on last set due to greasy fingers.
S - Walked to St michel to buy some liquid chalk and a brush.
Rest of weekend was spent in the north of France, eating homemade pate, charcuterie, cake and drinking eau de vie. Family obligation nicely coincided with crap weather.
I bought my liquid chalk to use on my BM 'cos I don't want to use chalk in my flat, but I'm wondering if it might be a bad idea. Anyone have any thoughts?
Weight was down to 74.4kg, but 75.0kg this morning.
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I bought my liquid chalk to use on my BM 'cos I don't want to use chalk in my flat, but I'm wondering if it might be a bad idea. Anyone have any thoughts?
I use a chalkball kept in a sealed tupperware for my fingers but a cheap stand-fan off ebay has proved the most effective way of chilling the Beast and keeping the smeg factor down.
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Simon that's a great breakthrough, good to see! If my experience of progress on the route is anything to go by then you'll probably get a move or a half move further along the traverse each time over the next x sessions
Cheers Pete, that seems to be the way it is working out. Managed to come into the side hold with my right hand and hold it just now but too boxed to move my feet. Still new highpoint. Not great conditions again. Midges out in force too
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Mon - Koyamada test, BM three fingers slot. Up to 22 kg RH. http://youtu.be/WYJ5PY1huE4
Front levers, ab wheel, 2 mins weight complex x2, brutal.
Tue - static weight complex, shoulder and overhead babell walk x2.
Wed - bouldering. Hill sprints x6. I was fast and bouncy. Brilliant. Who needs climbing?
Thu - rest. Drove to the Dolomites.
Fri - tried project on soaking rock. Useless. Tired.
Sat - sunny, project even wetter. Tired.
Sun - rainy. Drove home stopping by at King Rock for a three hours long bouldering session. Useless, tired, fucking hot in there, boiling fingers. Resisted the urge to go topless.
Ate the whole weekend as if there were no tomorrow for this planet.
This was the last chance to climb my project up there for this year, probably, and I didn't even get close. Even with dry rock my chances would have been very slim: I completely fucked up the preparation. The week's training was very good but I should have rested one day more.
The Koyamada test was brutal in itself and left me with sore fingers and forearms for days.
Wednesday the bouldering was too intense and too fingery, on Friday my fingers were achey and tired.
Luckily the weather was shit.
Shoulder miraculously ok.
Anyway, I'd like to take the whole week off before starting the winter's training, let's see if I make it. Forecast is for 30+ degrees again.
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Isn't it Elfin Safe Tea?
Longship is great, 7A seems very steep for a very hard pull off a mono! Did you try Argle Bargle and Bargle Blaster?
Can't remember if I did Longship or not - but seem to remember it being hard either way. Elfin went quickly for me too and maybe warrants a drip to 6C+
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Some great reports this week - and sorry no cigar today Sharkio... still progress.. lovely progress...
I've had a physically brutal week.. but good...
M: Harmers in the morning - trying that 7A+ think of Andys (mudlark IIRC)... close close close, but no cigar. I really don't link crossing a foot through on half cigarette butt sized edges whilst crimping a ripple... but I feel I must do it.. anyway - that evening off to t'lakes \o/ to stay at MrsTT's Auntys house NR Dockray (Ullswater).
T: Up early - amazing day. We go for a 'potter' from the cottage - return 8 miles and 4 hours hours later. A couple of hours recovery and I get to hit Carrock for 4:30... Straight up to Mile high to try 'sing a rainbow' 7A. Warm up a bit - then get on it. Hmm.. quickly find its a little knacky - and seems super contingent on me getting my right heel to stick in just the right spot that is a bit unsighted. Waste about an hour until I find a re-adjust of the heel one move before a big reach up makes the difference. Hit the top out (not a path - and high) and spend about a min faffing, running out of steam and have to drop down and drop off. Grrr... feeling shattered and running out of time head back...
W: Warm but overcast - great walk up Glencoyne over the pass and drop down to Grizedale. MrsTT slow, but good day out.. about 8 miles or so again, feel knackered. Cook dinner and bed.. Wishing I had got to Carrock as primo connies (overcast cooler and wind) but just felt trashed..
Th: AM - up at 7 - at Carrock by 8. Straight up to rainbow - get it second go (first go was q bit of a sighter).. Big fight on the topout - lots of panting and wobbly head :) SUPERB problem. Right... next on my list (I have quite a few at Carrock I've tried and failed..) was Punks Life (7A+). Thankfully in the shade as it was warming up in the sun.. Pull on and jump - but man - its a looooong way to that jug.. Am I missing something or is it just a big big leap? Try until I realise theres probably non secret beta other than learn to jump better fool. Have a great 1/2 hour playing on Hock Stock and Two Smoking Toothbrushes (7B) before deciding I don't have the kahunas to commit to the move with only two thin ish pads and no spotter.. Head down to low boulder to try Slopey Arete (7A). Have a great chat with a fella (Andy?) from t'county who was over for the day - then failed at the last gasp to do Slopey Arete. Back to the cottage - and realise I'd been trying a 6C+ instead.. oh well.
The day was not over.
We were invited down to Dockray to sit with the locals on the green where they were having a Tour of Britain party.. Bright sunshine, shorts and T shirt weather and a great laugh - about 30 people, live music, loads of food, BBQ, dancing and a Caleigh (fuck I know I've spelt that wrong..). Oh, and 50 bikes wizzing past in about 3 seconds. Great fun and made so welcome by all in the village. I want to move. Back late(ish)
Fr: Another cracking day. Up fairly early - long walk up Great Dodd from the cottage and back around some other peaks... 5 hours - 11-12 miles. Knackered. Had to pick up some supplies in Penrith - then over to Carrock for 5pm.. Right. Try the PROPER slopey aręte this time - its nails :D can't get near it.. give up after about 40 min and go and have a play on the superb 'Fast cars and Campervans' 7A. Brilliant problem - work out all the parts - but run out of skin and strength before being able to link it. Even had a last (wait ten min then try) go and just slid off at the wrong moment. Took me a while to find a way to get my left heel up so high... Oh well, until next time Carrock Fell!
Sa: Shattered. Drive home
Su: Still shattered. Lie on sofa and watch TV...
Superb week - amazing weather in the Lakes - burnt myself out physically doing long walks and bouldering in the same day - but when the weathers good there, you just have to take advantage :)
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M- Unexpected bu fantastic day out side bouldering. No real goals, but excited to get out with a big group. Mange to figure out beta for an old sit start project and even send. Probably 7C+/8Aish. felt good to try hard and pull it out. A few other strong guys working it, but no other sends.
T-Climb on routes w wife at the wall. Managed to do a new 8a+/b route in one hang and felt pretty solid. Lift - Max bench and Deadlift
W- 16 hrs driving - Day 1 of driving from Anchorage to Spokane with friend and family(5 kids ages 2-12)
T- Day 2 - 12 hrs driving
F- Day 3 - 10hrs driving, had to stop for new tires on trailer
S- Day 4 - 18 hrs driving
S- Day 5 4 hr driving, help friend set up trailer in new home, fly back to anchorage.
Long, but amazing drive. When I finally got back into cell reception got fantastic news via email (See YYFY). Ready to really step into training for the next 4 weeks and get prepped for new job/life changes...
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I bought my liquid chalk to use on my BM 'cos I don't want to use chalk in my flat, but I'm wondering if it might be a bad idea. Anyone have any thoughts?
I use a chalkball kept in a sealed tupperware for my fingers but a cheap stand-fan off ebay has proved the most effective way of chilling the Beast and keeping the smeg factor down.
I have a fan, I'll try that first before I pof up my BM. Cheers.
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here we go
www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoMF6PJzoRc
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Shark-Way to go with the new highpoints!!
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Shark-Way to go with the new highpoints!!
Thanks Sas,
Here's a video of my new highpoint from yesterday which is one foot move better than my recent new highpoint. The previous video further up the thread wasn't my recent new highpoint or even matching my recent new highpoint. I think that it is important that I make this clear the granular detail of my failed redpoints. Basically it is another video of me falling of the top traverse. I have other versions getting to this point that involve power screaming when tired that I can post if there is demand for further variety. Joking apart, I am very excited to have got to the top traverse twice on each of my last three visits*.
https://youtu.be/Fq-LDF0TA3c
*Note for tomtom: that is 6 times in total.
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Brilliant new Shark. Now keep your composure and do the job.
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Looking good! :strongbench: How many moves is that highpoint from the kneebar you clip the chains from Shark?
I have other versions getting to this point that involve power screaming when tired that I can post if there is demand for further variety.
My only request is that you film with the camera horizontally. :chair:
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Note for tomtom: that is 6 times in total.
Well done. Sometimes its hard for me not to sound sarcastic (even in type) but well done.
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My only request is that you film with the camera horizontally. :chair:
Yep, T_B filming vertically brought failure, once he stopped that success came. Get the camera orientated correctly and you'll be on your way to the chains
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here we go
I love baby's congratulation coo at the end :)
Sounds like Anna was climbing well too.
Here's a video of my new highpoint from yesterday ...
Looking good, make sure you get (horizontal) video of the celebration when you get the chains.
Long, but amazing drive. When I finally got back into cell reception got fantastic news via email (See YYFY). Ready to really step into training for the next 4 weeks and get prepped for new job/life changes...
So let me get this straight, you've been doing 2 jobs at the same time as being a full time family man (with challenges), AND still had time to get beastly strong and do things like The Mandala.
You've either got a time machine or the best time management skills ever, you should write a book.
Good luck with it :)
and effort T_B, good luck Cheque
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Looking good! :strongbench: How many moves is that highpoint from the kneebar you clip the chains from Shark?
8 hand moves to the kneebar but only 4 hand moves to the jug at the end of the traverse after which it is relatively easy
My only request is that you film with the camera horizontally. :chair:
It's the only way I can get all the route in without being too far away or it being a bum shot. If you have any suggestions to get round that let me know.
Room in the car on Thursday if you want to do a professional shoot ;)
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Looking awesome Si. Now that you've finally reached the stage of regularly linking from the ground to mid traverse, each go will be improving your power endurance (ancap/aeropow in sterling?) and giving you positive feedback for how to do one more move along the traverse when core/arms are feeling totally boxed. Try to fail slapping wildly for one more hand or foot move along in the belief that you won't stick it, and not sagging onto the rope.
Some micro-beta that may help a tiny bit: the right-hand bump into the undercut above the left-hand sloper/pinch at beginning of the trav - I found twisting in the right knee/hip a little more made the right-hand bump into the undercut feel a tiny bit easier.
These are strange times.. warmest year on record, Corbyn, Simon morphing into an 8b redpointer before our eyes.
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These are strange times.. warmest year on record, Corbyn, Simon morphing into an 8b redpointer before our eyes.
Indeed - Peak lime even felt 'pleasurable' to climb on for the first time.. whats going on??
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Looking awesome Si. Now that you've finally reached the stage of regularly linking from the ground to mid traverse, each go will be improving your power endurance (ancap/aeropow in sterling?) and giving you positive feedback for how to do one more move along the traverse when core/arms are feeling totally boxed. Try to fail slapping wildly for one more hand or foot move along in the belief that you won't stick it, and not sagging onto the rope.
Some micro-beta that may help a tiny bit: the right-hand bump into the undercut above the left-hand sloper/pinch at beginning of the trav - I found twisting in the right knee/hip a little more made the right-hand bump into the undercut feel a tiny bit easier.
Thanks again Pete - I have some wilder slapping footage available too. That time it was a wildly jerked left foot back to the smear in extremis. It may not be too obvious on the vid but I do twist and hunker down for the move you mention and feel solid on it. The mistake that time was on the move after - I was aiming for a small thumb catch Id discovered when putting the draws in. When I missed the thumb catch instead of getting on with turning the half crimp into a full crimp on the sidepull as I usually do I fixated on trying to manoeuvre my thumb on, wasting energy in the process when it was already too late.
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here we go
I love baby's congratulation coo at the end :)
Sounds like Anna was climbing well too.
he wasn't congratulating me, he was congratulating himself since anna had given him half a protein bar in it's wrapper to play with and he had successfully unwrapped it and was gargling the chocolate coating ;D
Anna is going great and certainly seems to be back at full (pre-baby) strength.
It's certainly a bit tricksier getting to the boulders with the wee one (and all his gubbins) in tow, but is well worth it, even if sometimes you can't optimise attemts/conditions or whatever due to it. This trip was easier than the last since Anna allowed me some full siege time and Sam slept (or was happy enough playing in/outside his wee tent) to permit plenty of climbing.
can't wait for the next trip (which is a long way off)
Congrats to all that have achieved so much greatness over the last three weeks
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Good luck, Shark.
I thought your video was interesting but a bit long for the short attention spans of the youngsters on here so I made a highlights version.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lZLh0w8O7w&feature=youtu.be
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he wasn't congratulating me, he was congratulating himself since anna had given him half a protein bar in it's wrapper to play with and he had successfully unwrapped it and was gargling the chocolate coating ;D
Good skills :)
Right, Dolomites trip report.
TL:DR, The temps were waaaay down on what they should have been, almost 15 degrees colder. After one attempt we decided that any north faces, including the Hasse were a no go so the rest of the week was spent in the sun as much as possible, mostly doing easier stuff to keep moving.
Fri/Sat: Travel and sitting out the rain/snow waiting for the sunny forecast weather.
Sun: Drive up to the Tre Cime road head only to discover it closed due to snowfall and watch a snowplow head past us to clear. Whilst it was very pretty (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=1896ADECBEB4D938!184&authkey=!ANeogjk3P08xZsM&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg) (can't seem to embed photos any more), it meant a change of plan.
Wound up heading to do Ottovolante (http://www.planetmountain.com/rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=263&id_tipologia=38) which was a great route (thanks Duncan) but we bailed on pitch 8 because despite having on every warm layer I owned we were freezing and the effort of climbing whilst cold got to be too much.
Mon: Got on Roberta 89 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_tipologia=38&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=961&gruppo=&cima=&nome=) which was good fun. Not the fastest ascent ever, and managed to route read fail on the crux, but the time allowed the seepage on the last 2 pitches to dry off. Thought the starting 6a/+ slab was the hardest climbing we did on the whole thing, can't see me ever heading to the Wendenstock.
Tues: Rest, ish. Did the VF Punta Anna, doing a 4 hour circuit of the good stuff and reversing an easy VF back to the car. Beautiful day. (The top of the VF is in the foreground) (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=1896ADECBEB4D938!187&authkey=!AKyF_mwDxgMBcyI&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg)
Wed: Dawn start (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=1896ADECBEB4D938!185&authkey=!AKyF_mwDxgMBcyI&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg) for the Via Cassin on the Piccolisima (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_tipologia=38&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=301&gruppo=&cima=&nome=). The smallest tower but at least we got to climb something around the Tre Cime. A good day in the mountains, just enough sun to keep things bearable and an audience to applaud as we abbed/walked off 8)
Thurs: Back to Piz Ciavazes to do a route called Abram (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=106700) in the rockfax but not listed anywhere online by the same name. It was 12 pitch VII although most of the climbing was stepping up easy ground and I got a bit bored with that.
Managed to top out just before the hail thunderstorm started, as if we weren't cold enough.
Fri: Dedicated local research into cake/coffee stops. Still not sure we've found the best one.
Sat: Last day route choice limited by snow/rain from previous days meant back to Piz Ciavazes. My lack of sleep caught up with me (4hrs av. a night up till now), so my inner coward said hello whilst I struggled through 1st pitch of a sport route in the cold. Bailed and got on Via Irma (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230136) which had good crux pitches and was just about all I could cope with on the day.
Despite getting a bit down about having the plans scuppered by the freak weather after thinking about it all summer we had a fun trip. I'll need to figure out when to go back for round 2.
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The Abram is a really noce route. I don't know if I would have gotten on it in such weather conditions! On Friday morning the Ciavazes looked still quite wet!
If you need any suggestions for coffe and cakes in Canazei or Campitello, just ask!
;)
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It was dry while we were on Abram. My partner said that the rain had passed just as we topped out and 5 mins later we had hail bouncing off our hoods. (and my comment of the route as boring is more about how I was feeling that day than the route itself.)
If you need any suggestions for coffe and cakes in Canazei or Campitello, just ask!
;)
I will thanks :) We were based in Cortina, and I nearly made a fool of myself one evening thinking I recognised you from your videos and almost shouted Nibs at someone's back. Resisted thankfully, they didn't look strong enough.
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Everything crossed for the coming week Shark. Feels like you've made some sort of physiological breakthrough this week.
I went to the wall once and had a very sore left tricep afterwards. No real training other than that apart from further aggravating said muscle carrying an ill child around - rock and roll.
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Good luck, Shark.
I thought your video was interesting but a bit long for the short attention spans of the youngsters on here so I made a highlights version.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lZLh0w8O7w&feature=youtu.be
;D
An Off-beat video ;)
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Room in the car on Thursday if you want to do a professional shoot ;)
I'll hopefully be able to do this- it relies upon getting all my work finished in time so won't know 'til tomorrow evening though.
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Room in the car on Thursday if you want to do a professional shoot ;)
I'll hopefully be able to do this- it relies upon getting all my work finished in time so won't know 'til tomorrow evening though.
:2thumbsup:
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Long, but amazing drive. When I finally got back into cell reception got fantastic news via email (See YYFY). Ready to really step into training for the next 4 weeks and get prepped for new job/life changes...
So let me get this straight, you've been doing 2 jobs at the same time as being a full time family man (with challenges), AND still had time to get beastly strong and do things like The Mandala.
You've either got a time machine or the best time management skills ever, you should write a book.
Good luck with it :)
I'm not sure exactly how it works, but about 13 years ago (when I married into an instant family) I learned that if you set a series of priorities and each day you just do as many of them as you can, it's quite amazing how much you can accomplish. I often wish I could train more, have more family time, and have more time to dedicate to other facets of life, but by just setting priorities every day I generally get enough of each.
Looking good! :strongbench: How many moves is that highpoint from the kneebar you clip the chains from Shark?
8 hand moves to the kneebar but only 4 hand moves to the jug at the end of the traverse after which it is relatively easy
That's awesome!
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a Caleigh (fuck I know I've spelt that wrong..).
Ceilidh. Only reason I have it down is that it's my daughter's name (sort of - she's Cerys Eilidh)
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STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.
M: Rest. Night work.
T: Small session. Ruined from nights. Bunch of campussing. Night work.
W: Starting to get sick.
T: Sick.
F: Sick.
S: Sick.
S: Sick.
:'(
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Assuming that's not a "wow that's sick" sick?
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Better conditions and got stupidly close today. Back around on tuesday
https://youtu.be/tc0rBjvYknQ
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So is that 2 moves from the jug?
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Fuckin' 'ell Simon - almost there! You're looking so in control now... roll on Tuesday.
:)
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Bloody hell Simon!
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I feel like we're getting close to the end of an era!
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This is Farnell on grooved arete squared. Go on shark, I'm syked out of my tiny mind.
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You're waiting until Tuesday... WTF?! 2 days rest, no eating and BOOM I reckon.
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Come on!!!
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Aye, you don't want to unleash a "commentator's curse" but it looks so close; close enough that I am hoping Simon has booked counseling to ease him through the "what the hell do I do with my life now" post-success phase. Or maybe, a glutinous trip through the restaurants and vineyards of France - like how squaddies use a few weeks of largin' it in Cyprus to "decompress" after tours.
Funny how developments seem to me coming along so fast after so long. It gives me renewed hope for the projects that I am still plugging away at, but only out of a sense of inertia - as I have frankly given up any hope after months of stalled progress (unless I find that Simon's recent developments are due to an embrace of EPO!).
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Thanks guys. I can take a lot of comfort from the consistency of having got to the top traverse twice on each of the last 4 sessions. Conditions yesterday were much better than the previous 3 sessions. Bit worried that I might have a downturn having only been on the Oak on a day on / two days off basis and may get stale. To do some system shocking I did some deadlifts last night (1pm !) and going to do a bit of campusing and bouldering later today and a fingerboard session on Saturday morning then rest up till tuesday
So is that 2 moves from the jug?
1 move.
Just needed for my right foot to stay on then stand up and flag with my left to make a long stretch left for a sidehold jug
This is Farnell on grooved arete squared. Go on shark, I'm syked out of my tiny mind.
;D
You're waiting until Tuesday... WTF?! 2 days rest, no eating and BOOM I reckon.
Brothers 50th in Devon at the weekend and an important client meeting on Monday.Although enforced, I actually think it is good to have a slightly longer break to try and get a little snap
(unless I find that Simon's recent developments are due to an embrace of EPO!).
;D I think that being about half a stone lighter has given me the edge. It certainly feels like cheating. Dense would agree
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Good tactics, if you smash it at this light weight then that's a good steppingstone to doing it properly at your normal weight. BOOM. clinical.
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Good tactics, if you smash it at this light weight then that's a good steppingstone to doing it properly at your normal weight.
This is my new normal. Got a taste for it and I ain't ever going back.
Well not until christmas anyway
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They all say that....
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Damn, sure look different on it to a couple of years ago or whenever it was I last belayed you on it! The power of dieting
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Better conditions and got stupidly close today. Back around on tuesday ...
:o :bounce:
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Damn, sure look diffe The power of dieting
good name for a book!
Good luck Shark don't fall off after the jug! :strongbench:
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Is the world about to stop spinning on its axis?
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Right, Dolomites trip report.
TL:DR, The temps were waaaay down on what they should have been, almost 15 degrees colder. After one attempt we decided that any north faces, including the Hasse were a no go so the rest of the week was spent in the sun as much as possible, mostly doing easier stuff to keep moving.
Fri/Sat: Travel and sitting out the rain/snow waiting for the sunny forecast weather.
Sun: Drive up to the Tre Cime road head only to discover it closed due to snowfall and watch a snowplow head past us to clear. Whilst it was very pretty (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=1896ADECBEB4D938!184&authkey=!ANeogjk3P08xZsM&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg) (can't seem to embed photos any more), it meant a change of plan.
Wound up heading to do Ottovolante (http://www.planetmountain.com/rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=263&id_tipologia=38) which was a great route (thanks Duncan) but we bailed on pitch 8 because despite having on every warm layer I owned we were freezing and the effort of climbing whilst cold got to be too much.
Mon: Got on Roberta 89 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_tipologia=38&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=961&gruppo=&cima=&nome=) which was good fun. Not the fastest ascent ever, and managed to route read fail on the crux, but the time allowed the seepage on the last 2 pitches to dry off. Thought the starting 6a/+ slab was the hardest climbing we did on the whole thing, can't see me ever heading to the Wendenstock.
Tues: Rest, ish. Did the VF Punta Anna, doing a 4 hour circuit of the good stuff and reversing an easy VF back to the car. Beautiful day. (The top of the VF is in the foreground) (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=1896ADECBEB4D938!187&authkey=!AKyF_mwDxgMBcyI&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg)
Wed: Dawn start (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=1896ADECBEB4D938!185&authkey=!AKyF_mwDxgMBcyI&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg) for the Via Cassin on the Piccolisima (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_tipologia=38&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=301&gruppo=&cima=&nome=). The smallest tower but at least we got to climb something around the Tre Cime. A good day in the mountains, just enough sun to keep things bearable and an audience to applaud as we abbed/walked off 8)
Thurs: Back to Piz Ciavazes to do a route called Abram (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=106700) in the rockfax but not listed anywhere online by the same name. It was 12 pitch VII although most of the climbing was stepping up easy ground and I got a bit bored with that.
Managed to top out just before the hail thunderstorm started, as if we weren't cold enough.
Fri: Dedicated local research into cake/coffee stops. Still not sure we've found the best one.
Sat: Last day route choice limited by snow/rain from previous days meant back to Piz Ciavazes. My lack of sleep caught up with me (4hrs av. a night up till now), so my inner coward said hello whilst I struggled through 1st pitch of a sport route in the cold. Bailed and got on Via Irma (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230136) which had good crux pitches and was just about all I could cope with on the day.
Despite getting a bit down about having the plans scuppered by the freak weather after thinking about it all summer we had a fun trip. I'll need to figure out when to go back for round 2.
Sounds like a typical first trip to this kind of place. I've had a lots of these. However much research you do, and I do a lot, there is no substitute for being there to find out how things really work. You'll now have answered most of your questions about gear and tactics.
Shame about the weather but I guess that's always a risk in mountainous areas. Glad you enjoyed Ottovolante but I might have looked for something south facing given the connies!
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;D I think that being about half a stone lighter has given me the edge.
See the gains you got from leaving vertical video in the past, now it's time to leave imperial measures back there too. Use kilograms and you can stop thinking that you're half of something lighter, you can be three whole units lighter. Three! See the difference being just half a unit lighter has made, imagine what it would be like being three units lighter.
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(unless I find that Simon's recent developments are due to an embrace of EPO!).
;D I think that being about half a stone lighter has given me the edge. It certainly feels like cheating. Dense would agree
It's the bouldering, not the diet :)
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and an audience to applaud as we abbed/walked off 8)
Just like topping out at Liwedd ;)
Sounds a great trip, never been yet and this year, everyone seems to have gone. The appetite is wetted.
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;D I think that being about half a stone lighter has given me the edge.
See the gains you got from leaving vertical video in the past, now it's time to leave imperial measures back there too. Use kilograms and you can stop thinking that you're half of something lighter, you can be three whole units lighter. Three! See the difference being just half a unit lighter has made, imagine what it would be like being three units lighter.
I think that as Simon is a gem of a guy, and ticking Austrian Oak is so precious to him, that carats would be most appropriate measure - be inspired by being nearly 16,000 units lighter (incidentally, the "hobbit" is a unit of measure once used in Wales, unfortunately it is not used to enumerate shortness, hairy feet, or predilection for sheep but was a mass equivalent to 4 pecks or 2.5 bushels).
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'Kinell - has everyone on this forum done an E or two?
What's happened to the usual goading, pisstaking and sarcastic comments? ;)
Simon [emoji173]️[emoji173]️
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Yeah come on Shark, you fucking punter, maybe hang a bucket of water at the belay and set fire to your hand again, might make you climb with more of a sense of urgency. ;-)
(that OK for you Tom?)
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John Dunne had technique. Shark has... nothing. For breakfast, lunch and dinner.
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Running late this week
Goals unchanged...
M-F - three bM sessions, seem to have picked up a right forearm strain which is hindering middle finger slightly and ring finger more than slightly but less than massively.
S - Outside for an hour, just top-roped some routes for training.
S - BM session.
Forearm strain has pissed me off, nothing else to say. On with the Shark love in...
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'Kinell - has everyone on this forum done an E or two?
What's happened to the usual goading, pisstaking and sarcastic comments? ;)
Simon [emoji173]️[emoji173]️
I think 6 years of having the piss taken is plenty long enough ;)
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This is Farnell on grooved arete squared. Go on shark, I'm syked out of my tiny mind.
This is ukb's Dawn Wall
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'Kinell - has everyone on this forum done an E or two?
What's happened to the usual goading, pisstaking and sarcastic comments? ;)
Simon [emoji173]️[emoji173]️
I think 6 years of having the piss taken is plenty long enough ;)
8 1/2
3rd post:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=238610
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That is a long shake out before the traverse left Simon, I don't remember it being that good a rest. Just a thought but would it be better to just have one chalk of each hand then go?
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First go in 2007! It literally is Sharks Dawn Wall. Do you have a tally of the number of days?
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First go in 2007! It literally is Sharks Dawn Wall. Do you have a tally of the number of days?
This is were we need a soundbite of the darts man shouting "180!"
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That is a long shake out before the traverse left Simon, I don't remember it being that good a rest. Just a thought but would it be better to just have one chalk of each hand then go?
It's been a 7 year shake-out there. Some obviously get it back more slowly than others but that's still a bit lengthy - one year per hand and go.
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See Shark - climb faster!
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That is a long shake out before the traverse left Simon, I don't remember it being that good a rest. Just a thought but would it be better to just have one chalk of each hand then go?
:-\
I did shake out for a longer time than normal that time. I felt pretty comfortable and got further on the redpoint so maybe there is a connection! and an equally strong case for shaking out even longer.
In general two of my natural strengths are bridging and recovery at rests so I would expect to be there longer than most on average would.
Think I will just continue to go on feel when I'm there.
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First go in 2007! It literally is Sharks Dawn Wall. Do you have a tally of the number of days?
No. I could go through my UKC exercise diary to find out. Would be tedious and take a while. Also a bit scared to find out TBH
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I wonder if the number of car trips tops those of Malc :popcorn:
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Car trips isn't objective. I'd go with miles driven.
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Just had a chance to watch Shark v Oak. Bloody ell so close!! Brilliant stuff, well solid. To the chains!