UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: fried on September 06, 2015, 03:37:14 pm
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STG - Get from 75.2kg down to 74.5kg by the end of September.
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice, but I'll happily settle for a sackfull of 5+/6A stuff in a variety of styles.
LTG - 7A by 50 ( 6 years to go)
M - Indoors, too hot. Chose 3/4 probs not my style to work, did O.K on 2 of them, but not the conditions for trying anything hard.
T/W - Nothing, a bit of bamboo twirling.
Th - First BM session for a long time, unsuprisingly tough, scraped through 1 set had to finish on jugs. I'll start back on this now it's cooling down.
F - Afternoon off work, so a rare afternoon/ early evening session. Went to Roche aux sabots, dismayed to find that the yellow circuit has been replaced with an orange circuit, and the blue has been modified.....no mention of this on the Cosiroc site, not sure who's responsible.
Warmed up, then got stuck into Joyeuses des Noel 6A+ http://bleau.info/sabots/5747.html (not the line in the video!). I had a play on this last year, and I don't think I got off the ground, made better progress today, but couldn't get the last move.
Had a go at a couple of reds, but nothing doing, so did the first 10 or so blue problems in good style. I'd done Le Narine http://bleau.info/sabots/17688.html with the right-hand exit, and found it easy at the beginning of the year, so I tried the left-hand exit 6A, did it first go, then remembered it was a sit-start so redid it next go. Still feels really soft.
S- Long walk in Paris
Su - Rocher Canon after much uming and ahring, warmed up on some yellow, nasty dull ache in left upper arm, decide to have a go on Le oeuf de colombe 6A http://bleau.info/canon/3306.html. Never left the ground on this before, so was happy to find a nice sequence for the first couple of moves. Wait 15mins desperately massaging arm, Hit the top but fluff it. Arm too painful to continue. Had a go on Caprice 6A, but it was obvious after a couple of goes the day was finished. Pissed off drive home.
A few days off looks in order.
Weight shot up to 76.5kg, then dropped down to 75.2kg today
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Thanks fried.
STG - hope the scales lie tomorrow morning...
M: Rest
Tu: Woodwell. Sole aim of doing The Beauty of Being Numb (after getting close last week). Did it - 2nd or 3rd attempt. Superb. A bit of thought about getting my hips closer to the roof and that gave me the extra 2-3cm I needed to get the problem. Nailed the next couple of moves too - that were hard. Excellent - first 7B+ in ages...
Then went down to the other end to have a go at Rigpa (7Bish).. got into the gaston nicely (which I found hard before) but on second go pinged off backwards and rolled down the hill - looking at a large lump of sharp limestone that swung towards my head as a barrelled. Missed it, but a little shaken. Started to have a play at not bad dave - then the mother of all thunderstorms came and I sat under the roof for 45 min sitting it out... moderately scary at times...
W: Work
Thu: Stopped at CragX on the way back from Hull... I've deliberately avoided my Jericho Road odyssey there for the last few weeks - as I was getting a bit sick of it. But having done some decent grades in the last few weeks, felt strong - decided it was time to get back on it.
It went second go. A fight, a scrappy ascent. Only first pads in the roof jug but I just gritted and held it. Feet stayed on rock solid - sketched through to the final flake - got my feet in the right position but couldn't remember what hand to move. A strange sort of autopilot took over and I just went for the flake with whatever hand. It felt wrong, but I wasn't going to stop trying - bought the other hand over even though I felt out of balance - but held it. Matched. In control - then dropped off. Finished. Done. Very happy - the summer project all done - at last... Took me 1/2 hour to recover! Then had a play on Cherokee Lane (which had felt miles off before) - got really really close a couple of times having made good progression - but ran out of beans. Played on the Pinch and went off home feeling really really happy. Celebrated by having an argument with MrsTT ;)
Fr: 45min session at Hobby moor. Climbing well, but no progression on HOuse on the Hill RH - fuck its hard for 7B - super (for me) powerful moves up on those crimps. What felt vaguely possible last time felt impossible this...
Drive to friends wedding in Warwick - managed to limit evening drinks to 1 glass of wine.
Sa: Wedding. Ate the largest English breakfast of my life - then got muntered. MrsTT couldn't walk...
Su: No hangover! But slept shite - drove home gingerly - inhabited the sofa for the rest of the day :)
A good week - some big numbers (for me) went down and a long term project. Superb. Off to N.Lakes tomorrow evening for 4-5 days - so hoping to hit Carrock this next week and get a few targets there done..
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Started a more structured training programme based on Steve Maisch's programme. Will be interesting to see how it turns out..
Mon: Bouldering then weighted max hangs strength test. Didn't have enough weight, so realised that I need to use F3 and B3 on the small rung of the BM2K for my max hangs.
Tues: Rest day
Wed: Weighted max hangs in the AM, then PM bouldering
Thurs: Deadlifts and kettlebell swings
Fri: Bouldering and one arm max hangs.
Sat: Surf and pinch training
Sun: Bouldering - did some stuff up to 7B, then put some time into an 8A+. Did all of the moves bar 2, so maybe a new project..
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Mon - nothing.
Tue - kettlebell swings, weights complex, triceps, shoulder barbell carry, abs. This finisher here http://vimeo.com/138076240. The barbell carry is brutal. Fantastic find!
Wed - standing ab rolls; power cleans pyramid.
Thu - nothing. Doms.
Fri - nothing. Doms.
Sat - nothing. Got drunk at a friend's wedding.
Sun - nothing.
Hard week, finally the last one of a tough period full of committments, late nights, alcohol and unpredictable eating. Had fun though.
The only two sessions I did were memorable.
Now I'm back to staying at home and eating properly. Still in good shape. Next weekend the Dolomites project is going down!
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Just wanted to say thanks - won't be posting for a while now. Cheers for all the advice, encouragement and letting this punter report without ripping the piss too much.
Never got found go ticking anything harder than 6b this year, so aiming for a whole grade number by this time next year. Fingers crossed for staying injury free.
Cheers people.
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
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STG: close any of my large and growing collection of redpoint projects
MTG (2015): redpoint two more 7a’s and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b's with dance-themed names (Sautanz, Brachiation)
M-W: hard week at work, lazy & demoralised at home. Nothing done.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. 40 minutes ca onsight level bouldering to warm up, then circuits.
F:
S: Had planned to go to to Dachstein for some alpineering but weather not suitable. Frankenjura instead. Tried a 7a+ in the morning that was, however, hopelessly beyond my current level of finger strength. Had better luck in the afternoon on a one move wonder 7a with a dyno crux. This went rather better. Hit but didn't hold the target pocket on my third go and last of the day. (Some stumpy has the route on 8a.nu at 7b+. lol)
S: Frankenjura. Heavy rain in the night, cold damp & windy in the morning. Felt obliged to put in a token go on the new proj, but bailed when I couldn't feel the setup holds for the dyno 'cos my fingers were numb. Went bouldering instead, did what I think is probably my first real 6B+. Certainly my first in steep butch 'jura style. yyfy.
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Just wanted to say thanks - won't be posting for a while now.
Are you off then? Best of luck. Let me know if you find the van veering towards anywhere northern Italy / eastern Alps / Frankenjura-ish
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Gotta a very busy couple of weeks left but won't be climbing much, no training for sure. Got your number mate and you'd be welcome in Spain
Same goes for everyone else - anyone needs a belay, just shout. Catalunya nov-jan. Alicante for Feb and march.
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
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Went to Roche aux sabots, dismayed to find that the yellow circuit has been replaced with an orange circuit
Same problems repainted or a different set of problems?
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Thanks fried
10.11-10.13 Look at me !
M. Malham with Tom. Arrived mid afternoon to everyone complaining of greasy conditions. Warm, still and very midgey. Contemplated going home. Cons x 3 F&EEE x 1. Go 1 Ground to fumbling the resting undercut new highpoint ;D . Go2 Fumbled horn Go 3 Got to horn and fell off going for sloper Go 4 Dabbed the horn. Tommy got close to doing Raindogs in two halves. Climbed till it was dark.
T. AM Awesome Sheffield. Guinea pig in a lactate sampling experiment. Got pumped foot-on hanging an edge, doing a route and then with a handgrip device. Pleased to onsight the route (7b (fun blue one to top of steep main wall) and then straight back on to get quarter way up to failure. PM Labouring
W.
T. Weighed in at unbelievable 10.11.0 but felt very hungry mid morning so went to cafe for second breakfast
F. Noon Malham with Nick C. Got to crag at midday but too sunny so hung around then led Appetite for a change which was bit too pumpy then had a snooze in sun. Dogged up the Oak. Go 1 got horn but didn't latch it. Go 2 Got to horn and felt strong went out right but got sloper in wrong place. Tried to adjust to get thumb catch then do move tickled undercut but left hand slipped off sloper and skinned my knuckles. Go 3 Felt tired but climbed well and almost overcooked throw but somehow didnt hold the horn for some reason grrrr. Go 4 touched sloper and had a workout on the high redpoint crux going to and from undercut and sidepull to failure. Midge free to begin with but they came out later so glad to have bought the midge head nets yesterday. Generally cool temps. Bit disappointed but good to equal Monday's new highpoint
S. Ben's 17th. He expressed an interest in going bouldering outdoors. Went to Burbage with him and Tom in afternoon. Temps not to bad but midges were fucking awful. After warming up went on Mermaid held the sloper three times and on fourth got to top. ;D though have a nagging doubt I did a micro dab. We went across to the Nose which had a lower midge count. Ben and me got stuck in and Ben got really close but not quite - would have been awesome to do his first 7A on his birthday. I managed to pull it off ;D Dead chuffed as although I have furkled the holds in the past never tried it properly as the landing looked bad
S More labouring - skip now full
Midges aside an awesome week. Conditions for Malham look very promising and booked to go back on Tuesday :bounce:
https://youtu.be/ow5a-4HQJew
ps Contrary to appearances I do not have a leaky anus
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Gotta a very busy couple of weeks left but won't be climbing much, no training for sure. Got your number mate and you'd be welcome in Spain
Same goes for everyone else - anyone needs a belay, just shout. Catalunya nov-jan. Alicante for Feb and march.
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
Have fun, give me a shout when you're back in Font.
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Leaky anus, losing weight? Coincidence??? ;)
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STG - Roof Warrior and Body Machine
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring
M - hour open hand on the board, finger felt dodgy and strange pain in the side of hand
T - nowt
W - tentatively warm up, safest option seems to be max hangs on big slot, did a new PB 85kg. 500m rowing sprint to finish
Th - FoC (1:20 on)- reduced rest to 50s, failed move 19 of 20 final rep. 5x 1 min Rowing sprints to finish
F rest
S - max hangs, another new PB 87kg (150% body weight) but decided to try the Eva Lopez thing so did 3x83kg for 10s. 3x10 pullups +10kg, 5x 1 min Rowing sprints to finish
S- FoC rest time 40s, fails late in reps 6,7,8.
Oddly low psyche week, thought I'd be mad for it with the kids back at school from Wednesday. Probably caused by niggles and poor performance on Monday. Seems to be revived now though, keen to get out this week.
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Went to Roche aux sabots, dismayed to find that the yellow circuit has been replaced with an orange circuit
Same problems repainted or a different set of problems?
Yellow seems to have completely changed, I didn't check all the problems, but most had been erased that I saw. The blue is pretty much the same with some off-piste stuff added at the end. Some of the problems are now too close to each other. Same thing happened at Potala this year with a completely changed orange circuit appearing by magic. Don't know much about local politics, but normally these things take time and a long 'period de reflexion' before any hard decisions are made on circuit changes. Nice to try some new stuff, but a lot of filler. Feels a bit like losing an old friend.
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ps Contrary to appearances I do not have a leaky anus
Skimmed the rest of the post and then this line stood out, a lot :2thumbsup:
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STG: Trad projects
MTG: 8c in Margalef
LTG: 9a
BHAG: Bruderliebe
M - Afternoon outside, bank holiday joy. It was stinkin' hot and windless. Too hot in the sun for steep projects and too muggy in the chasm for that project. So spent the afternoon cleaning up an easier (but filthy) new line. Probably going to end up as a pumpy but safe E6 when clean.
T - long day at work
W - BM session , pretty good.
T - evening outside on the training traverse wall. We worked a new hard start extension into the hard traverse, managed to link this into the first half of the hard traverse. The full link will be hard, especially with the new harder finish. Good session.
F - Nothing
S - Tree felling and branch shifting a.m. Afternoon outside, still stinkin' hot same problem as monday so cleaned a.n.other filthy project line next to mondays line. This will also probably end up as a slightly harder pumpy but safe E6 when clean. Also had a end of session blast on the chasm project, top-roped no probs but a couple of worrying seepage lines have appeared.
S - Morning swim in the sea with the dog, bike ride with the little lad, watching drag racing all afternoon (including the worlds fastest coin-op postman pat van :2thumbsup:). Evening BM session, managed to hit a target of hanging each of the following mono combos for 10s:
1 - LH middle finger, RH little finger
2 - RH middle finger, LH little finger
3 - LH ring finger, RH little finger
4 - RH ring finger, LH little finger
5 - LH index finger, RH index finger
So quite happy with that.
Feeling pretty good right now, but ridiculous weather temps is ruining any project ticking aspirations. It's too warm to even work the steep lines, and whilst the chasm route is pretty dialed I'm only going to want to get on the sharp end in decent non humid sweat conditions. I'm concerned by the seepage appearing on the route, especially with the lack of rain of late, worried that it might just get wetter...
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Yellow seems to have completely changed, I didn't check all the problems, but most had been erased that I saw. The blue is pretty much the same with some off-piste stuff added at the end. Some of the problems are now too close to each other.
The blue is/was awesome but I don't have such great memories of the yellow and it was getting pretty trashed. Tried it with the Mrs quite a bit over the last few years, do like a few at the start in the trees but then they get high and/or hard, wouldn't have argued with many of them being upgraded to orange. Odd that they can just find a whole new set of problems in an area so popular.
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Thanks fried
10.11-10.13 Look at me !
M. Malham with Tom. Arrived mid afternoon to everyone complaining of greasy conditions. Warm, still and very midgey. Contemplated going home. Cons x 3 F&EEE x 1. Go 1 Ground to fumbling the resting undercut new highpoint ;D . Go2 Fumbled horn Go 3 Got to horn and fell off going for sloper Go 4 Dabbed the horn. Tommy got close to doing Raindogs in two halves. Climbed till it was dark.
T. AM Awesome Sheffield. Guinea pig in a lactate sampling experiment. Got pumped foot-on hanging an edge, doing a route and then with a handgrip device. Pleased to onsight the route (7b (fun blue one to top of steep main wall) and then straight back on to get quarter way up to failure. PM Labouring
W.
T. Weighed in at unbelievable 10.11.0 but felt very hungry mid morning so went to cafe for second breakfast
F. Noon Malham with Nick C. Got to crag at midday but too sunny so hung around then led Appetite for a change which was bit too pumpy then had a snooze in sun. Dogged up the Oak. Go 1 got horn but didn't latch it. Go 2 Got to horn and felt strong went out right but got sloper in wrong place. Tried to adjust to get thumb catch then do move tickled undercut but left hand slipped off sloper and skinned my knuckles. Go 3 Felt tired but climbed well and almost overcooked throw but somehow didnt hold the horn for some reason grrrr. Go 4 touched sloper and had a workout on the high redpoint crux going to and from undercut and sidepull to failure. Midge free to begin with but they came out later so glad to have bought the midge head nets yesterday. Generally cool temps. Bit disappointed but good to equal Monday's new highpoint
S. Ben's 17th. He expressed an interest in going bouldering outdoors. Went to Burbage with him and Tom in afternoon. Temps not to bad but midges were fucking awful. After warming up went on Mermaid held the sloper three times and on fourth got to top. ;D though have a nagging doubt I did a micro dab. We went across to the Nose which had a lower midge count. Ben and me got stuck in and Ben got really close but not quite - would have been awesome to do his first 7A on his birthday. I managed to pull it off ;D Dead chuffed as although I have furkled the holds in the past never tried it properly as the landing looked bad
S More labouring - skip now full
Midges aside an awesome week. Conditions for Malham look very promising and booked to go back on Tuesday :bounce:
https://youtu.be/ow5a-4HQJew
ps Contrary to appearances I do not have a leaky anus
Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!
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Goals - etc
M bit of core work and some weights
T nowt
W bouldering session down the wall. got there at a decent hour for a change, but didn't climb very well, managed a few things though
T weights
F nowt
S swimming with LO, Legaston Quarry in afternoon, good session, 5+,6b, 6a, 6a+,6a+,6b+,6b bouldery nature of the routes (hard moves between big breaks) suited my lack of stamina. Failed badly on a 6c+ that actually needed a bit of stamina, then took a few lobs off a bouldery fingery 6c at the end of the day when I was knackered and sun was out and it was getting greasy. Annoying but also good to take a few convincing falls.
S - Not much. Park with kids, some gardening in early evening.
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still no idea on goals, just keep improving. Although when I started doing this two weeks ago my MTG was set to more 7's and grit E6's & I accomplished both this week so maybe my goals need raising???
M- antag
T - fingerboard, new records on repeaters
W - bouldering indoors, onsighted some V4's, nothing of note
T - antag
F - bouldered at Rubicon for the first time... nails! did some V3s
S - fell off HVS then RP grit E6, surprisingly grippy but still a bit sweaty. Then midged to death so escaped to Stoney
S - Cheedale, first F7 there which is great progress as I've never been able to do anything there before. 6c+ in one guide so probably soft but felt as hard as most other 7a's
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Just wanted to say thanks - won't be posting for a while now.
I hope you can keep posting, i for one would be interested to see how you guys are getting on!
:yes:
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STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.
M: Rest
T: Sunnyside. More progress on Combat Wombat V11 and Double Demerit V14. CW still a loong way off though.
W: St Leonards. Did all of the news stuff besides the hardest prob, which I dropped off near the end 2nd go because I didn't like the hold/move. Good fingerboard session and lots of shoulder work after.
T: St Leonards. Decent climb, made up problems. Good fingerboard, campus and shoulder work after. Solid one armers on middle 2 fingers on both arms, as well as middle lower edge on BM2000 both arms. Very pleased with that!
F: Rest
S: Queens Park and 9 Degrees. QP, warmed up failing on a V5, ticked the classic Pseiker/Child Overhang V4 2nd go, nice and committing. Then jumped on Paul's Roof V9. Nearly did it 3rd go but jumped off after a spotter dab. Wish I still had gone to the top because I couldn't get that high again! Takes alot of skin though, will be back soon. Very keen to do it.
9D, circuit of a new set. Maybe 25 problems in the V2-V5 range. Flashed all bar 2, 1 I did 2nd go and the other I didn't try again.
S: St Leonards. Beasting session, big moves, made up problems, lots of campussing, lots of dynos. Abit of shoulder work after and a bit of campus board.
Paul's Roof
(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00003/modified/729265425.jpg)
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84.7Kg (lightest in 9 months)
M - School lunch. 50 mins. Campus session. Just managed 1-4-7 on right, a few times on left. 2 sets of 10 pull ups and bench presses with 30Kg.
T -
W - School p.m. 30 and 50 degree. Mainly 30. Did Pussy, Discology and Red and Hard felt steady. Decent attempt at Polish's 8A on 30 degree.
T -
F - School lunch. 1-4-7 on both though still weirdly struggling with right. Tried 1-5-8 on right and locked but didn't let go. Then did 1-2 moves of various things on 30 and 50deg. Felt best on 50deg for ages.
S - p.m. Crag x for 4th session on The Pinch. Arrived at 6.30pm. Cool but zero wind. Changed beta for first move, using crossly pinch/gaston for left which is normally damp? This seemed to make it easier to get left foot locked in for the first move to the pinch. Struggled with slipping off holds all evening, just didn't feel like there was enough friction. Eventually got it together but dropped the last move! Gutted. Down to final goes, had a decent rest in the pitch black with lamp and head torch turned off, then next go bam bam bam, no f*ck up on the last move. Hooray! So psyched tried it again a couple of times as it felt so good not slipping on the pinch holds. Did Jericho Rd to finish then went home for a milkshake.
S -
I've done 13 problems of 7C and above this year, so on paper doing The Pinch is no big deal. But how many short Peak lime 7cs have I done? Not many is the answer. I struggle to think of a harder sequence of 5 moves that I've linked outside. I find it absolutely desperate and tenuous. Felt totally wrecked by Sunday evening, which says something about the amount of effort expended.
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Nice one TB.
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MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice
have you had a go at Chapeau Chinois at Sabot?
very nice 6B that responds well to the correct beta - and all the hard bit is low down and thus very workable
video of a very attractive fat bloke doing it available from the usual websites
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Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!
:-\
Getting the layaway and the crimp is straightforward with a kneebar/pad and you keep it in when you get a left toe in the pocket only releasing it as you do the pop for the good hold. Ben did it the same way. Lanking straight to the good hold looked too far though to be fair we didn't try that.
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Effort TB.
STG: Re-hab bicep tendon, E5 slabs.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
M. Slate. 2 x slabby 6a+s, 1 x E2/3 slab, 2 x E4 slabs.
T. Core and mobility workout. Bicep curls 3.5Kg, shoulder shrugs and shoulder press. V.floss
W. Quick couple of hours at Penmaenbach slab after work. Looked again at moves on 8a slab, felt much easier in cool connies.
T. Physio. Eccentric bicep curls with 8Kg, good exercise. Shoulder shrugs and press.
F. Eccentric curls 8Kg. V.floss.
S. Eccentric curls 8Kg.
S. Slate. 6a and an E2. Couldn't understand why I couldn't get up Kubla Khan - turns out I went the wrong way, but couldn't understand at the time why I didn't work out where to go, it isn't that hard. After a couple of hours out started felt completely exhausted and really ill. Ended up bailing to the car and slept on the back seat shivering, while A. and M. climbed. Hands down the worst climbing day I've had in recent memory.
Slept 9 hours and woke this morning feeling as if I'd been run over by a tractor and somone had syphoned my glucose reserves. Exhausted but no temperature, sore throut or headache. Weird. At least it explains why I couldn't think straight on KK.
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Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!
:-\
Getting the layaway and the crimp is straightforward with a kneebar/pad and you keep it in when you get a left toe in the pocket only releasing it as you do the pop for the good hold. Ben did it the same way. Lanking straight to the good hold looked too far though to be fair we didn't try that.
The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.
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Good effort doing the nose with that sequence, looks like the worst beta on it I've ever seen. Crazy strong!
:-\
Getting the layaway and the crimp is straightforward with a kneebar/pad and you keep it in when you get a left toe in the pocket only releasing it as you do the pop for the good hold. Ben did it the same way. Lanking straight to the good hold looked too far though to be fair we didn't try that.
What was the strange black band around your right leg?
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The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.
Makes sense. Ill have a go when I next go there with Ben and take shoes more suitable for toehooking,
What was the strange black band around your right leg?
It signifies I am a member of the dwarf batallion of the Waafen SS
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The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.
Makes sense. Ill have a go when I next go there with Ben and take shoes more suitable for toehooking,
Lagers has made me do it that way before (it must have been national feel sorry/condescending for shortarse boulderers day or something) and I can confirm it is very pleasing and not too tricky. Not as good as reaching for the flatty if you are of normal proportions of course....
What was the strange black band around your right leg?
It signifies I am a member of the dwarf batallion of the Waafen SS
I wondered if it might have been out of respect for your limestone homies...
Speaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...
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Psyche-filled week on here- effort beasts.
STG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State (or other 12b) on late September Arkansas trip.
MTG- More E2s, attempt E3s (Wall of Horrors for sure), 7A+, ideally 7B this grit season.
LTG- 8a.
M- Rest.
T- Rest.
W- Foundry. 30 pitches on autobelay in 3 sets of ten. The Foundry's three autobelays are a bit too close to other lines to make major mileage on them easy and when I arrived two had insitu children. The featured walls there meant that I was able to climb totally "feet on features" alowing me to make all the routes harder. Climbed with just features for hands too for some laps which was even better.
I kind of screwed up by making each pitch too hard meaning I wasn't able to do anything like the session mileage I'd planned to be doing at this stage before 24HHH, partly due to the busyness of the wall, partly because it's turned out that I just can't face doing tens of laps of the same 5+s indoors in one session and partly because I'm confident that I've got fit enough for the event without the need to do this. Time will tell!
Th- Rest.
F- Rest.
Sa- Cheedale Cornice. Got on Martial Music again. Felt very tough at first (I'd forgotten loads of it) but worked (and brushed) it well and it came together. Two redpoints, both of which ended dissapointingly low (above the third bolt at what I find to be the technical crux)- didn't feel confident enough; as at Kilnsey the other week I don't think I was recovered enough from the inddor mileage sessions midweek, creating a weird situation where, although I don't feel too tired and I'm not really getting pumped, I feel kind of fatigued while climbing. Ended session by typing all the moves into a text file in my phone for future reference :geek: - this took ages but allowed me to locate the parts of the route that I'm a bit sketchy on.
Su- Cycling up and down the Monsal Trail on hired bikes. I think it's 12 miles each way. I never cycle and found the way back up (slightly uphill as opposed to slightly downhill) hard!
Less than two weeks to go now. The die is cast regarding training and depending on how dry the crags are and what type of climbing I'm psyched for on my return, my lime redpointing campaign may be over for the year. I've had a blast and exceeded my expectations so I'm pleased! ;D
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Speaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...
Turtles don't sleep in the summer
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Speaking of which - is the turtle starting to stir in his box yet? I saw a three legged goose flying south yesterday...
Turtles don't sleep in the summer
Just as well I'm not involved in any calling activity... I hope Barrows has a lull in his PhD in the next few weeks. Its a critical time.
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Surely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)
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Surely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)
Fuck. This is complicated.
I think we should form a committee and generate a decision support matrix.
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Surely Barrows' responsibility is limited to lime calling only? The grit should lie with another (the uncaller?)
Fuck. This is complicated.
I think we should form a committee and generate a decision support matrix.
Like the turtle (it's a tortoise BTW) you should get back in your box and wind your neck in.
It requires leadership not a committee and Alex and Adam are the chosen ones. :bow: :bow:
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(Got any lettuce?)
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(Got any lettuce?)
Hands off - that's my lunch
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(Got any lettuce?)
Hands off - that's my lunch
Very wrong.
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(Got any lettuce?)
Hands off - that's my lunch
Very wrong.
Just kidding. I eat rabbit food (muesli) for lunch
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The way I was shown as the "shortarse beta" which is actually a lovely elegant sequence for anyone (although harder than the tall way), is to undercut out to the LH sidepull first, but not the poor lower bit you used but the slightly higher bit with the almost invisible diagonal ramp, left toe in roof pocket, right foot toehook next to your hand, then pull up to engage the toehook and pull through to the big jug boss with a RH, using the crimp as an intermediate on the way through. Then to avoid any cutloose you can do a blind toehook match on the undercut to get RF up on the right, which is again a great move.
Makes sense. Ill have a go when I next go there with Ben and take shoes more suitable for toehooking,
Like this, except at the end it's a lot less faff to just cutloose
http://vimeo.com/4300091
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Barely September, the heather's still purple, midges still rampant, Christmas deccys aren't even in the shops yet but hankering after the calling has started already. Lunacy
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What a cool problem! I had always wanted to do it since seeing Ben on it in Hard Grit. Brilliant.
When I did it, I was fresh from a late night flight and drive from Stansted to a friend's place in Sheffield, where we arrived at 5 in the morning.
As soon as I opened my eys and saw the sun, it was just adrenaline and we went climbing. Played a bit at Burbage North then went for The Nose. First day, I was climbing with taped pads to save skin. On the final sloper the tape started rolling and I crimped and crimped but no - I came off. And while I was sliding down I said to my friend "Take!"
;D
Memorable trip: 12 days no rain. Lots of 7s. Fantastic.
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Barely September, the heather's still purple, midges still rampant, Christmas deccys aren't even in the shops yet but hankering after the calling has started already. Lunacy
But I had my first incident of being unable to finish a limestone route because of numb fingers yesterday in an entirely different country
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What was the strange black band around your right leg?
It signifies I am a member of the dwarf batallion of the Waafen SS
it signifies he is a member of the Owsla of Efrafa - and thus explains his love of rabit food
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MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice
have you had a go at Chapeau Chinois at Sabot?
very nice 6B that responds well to the correct beta - and all the hard bit is low down and thus very workable
video of a very attractive fat bloke doing it available from the usual websites
Not my style I'm afraid, I've never even put a hand on it despite walking past it hundreds of times...I always have the impression that it needs a spotter and some extra padding. Although maybe these things hold their grade more than slabs and fingery walls. Hope you're taking your camera with you at Easter :thumbsup:
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I wear my extra padding under my skin
CC isn't as brutal as it looks, feet actually help
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You'll have to repeat it next time from the correct start ;)
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MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice
have you had a go at Chapeau Chinois at Sabot?
very nice 6B that responds well to the correct beta - and all the hard bit is low down and thus very workable
video of a very attractive fat bloke doing it available from the usual websites
I'll second that - it's brilliant and far easier than it looks..
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STG - Get from 75.2kg down to 74.5kg by the end of September.
MTG - A 6A+/6B this autumn/ winter would be nice, but I'll happily settle for a sackfull of 5+/6A stuff in a variety of styles.
LTG - 7A by 50 ( 6 years to go)
http://bleau.info/oiseaux/15234.html
Not sure what your style is but i ticked this slab last year, when I was having a good day all round. Felt a bit eliminate. The friction is good in that area, seems so to me anyway.
The some nice 6As round that way too.
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
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I love Oiseaux. I'll put it on my list of unfinished stuff to do in the area. You're right about the friction.
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Goals: as ever.
M - ? Resting and working I think.
T - board, first time in weeks. Actually not too bad, didn't feel so heavy.
W - Work, no doubt. I got promoted last week and work was been extremely full on this week.
T - intervals on the fingerboard, bit more serious than the experimental go last week
F - ditto. Felt almost completely rested before starting but faded very slightly earlier - obviously wasn't quite as recovered as I thought.
S - long day down to London and back for university open day with daughter
S - out early to try Harmers project, again. Conditions still not great. Agonisingly close to doing the start. Did "Otter's Pocket' 6B/C or so, which I'd never done before, at the end.
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STG: Don’t get injured. Do some training. Climb something long and fairly hard (for me) in Switzerland in September.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.
M - micro fingerboard session
T -
W - Westway: 5 x 10mins on /10 mins off at around 6a+. Good aerobic capacity session.
T -
F -
S - fly to Zurich. Some easy stuff at Schillingsflue, drove up to Wendenalp to camp.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5836/20602107864_6b50904b07_c.jpg)
View from Wendenalp. Pfaffenhut is the highest buttress, on the left, Sonnenkoenig takes the left arête.
S - Sonnenkoenig. Late start due to partying idiots, I think this was locals hooning around as it sounded like they drove back down the valley. 900m uphill approach, 1 hour 45 mins, with the last 30 mins up the typical steep grass.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/594/21036427510_9d2d5d0fc4_c.jpg)
Pfaffenhut
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/614/21036624608_294b7c0f24_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5786/21037051188_e51daafb3c_c.jpg)
Andy on pitch 1. Sonnenkoenig.
We did the first 8 pitches, to the ledge where it meets the abseil descent. The opening 6a+(++) pitch was a real welcome to Wendenstock moment. Great climbing, technical slabby limestone, lots rocking-up in the hope a hold would materialise. Typically a hard move fairly near the bolt or thread, then running it out up not-quite-so-hard ground. I really enjoy this style, commitment required but not much real danger most of the time...
M - Spasspartout. This was great too. The approach was relatively unserious, but still 700m ascent. Excellent climbing, slightly spoilt by a big grassy ledge before the final two pitches. These were really good, on immaculate rock with the characteristic water runnels, so not to be missed. The logbook had records of the last 5 years, great to read Ruth Oschener’s name a couple of times, but no Brits. Where are you? The grade 6a (5a obl.) is a laugh, 6b+ (6a), more realistic, but this is still probably the easiest route here and a good introduction to the place. The view leftwards into the arena of Reissend Nollen is most impressive.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/600/21198878476_d2565b78c5_c.jpg)
Andy high on Spasspartout
T-T - rain, sporadic attempts to climb at Lehn and Neuhaus (did a nice 6c+ up the prow on the latter). Came down with a cold.
F - Drove up to Wendenstock again on the promise of a decent weather forecast but previous three days rain meant waterfalls down several routes, snow on the higher areas, and the approaches looked lethal.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/622/21232745171_24bb995afd_c.jpg)
S-S - Lehn, still struggling with cold, not much climbing, fly home.
So finally got to climb at Wendenstock. It completely lived up to it’s reputation for excellent climbing on superb rock in a spectacularly and committing setting. I loved it and can’t wait to go back. I’m fairly sure we did the two easiest routes there and I'm not sure what comes next. I’d have liked to have got on Excalibur (as hard, but more serious?) and Patent Oschner was a popular choice that weekend (7a, but well protected?). It's a great incentive to improve, if you can consistently onsight 7a+, and deal with all the other stuff, there are numerous amazing route to go at. Andy has written more about the trip on his blog, linked from the Long, Hard and Free thread.
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Nice one Duncan, that last picture looks like the ramparts of a very scary castle.
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Nice pics Duncan, sounds great.
I've only been once and we did the first 9 (?) pitches of Caminando to the cave. Twas excellent and the approach not as steep as for Pfaffenhut.
Also did a similar number of pitches on something just to the right of your route on the Pfaffenhut. There was a dustbin lid on the first bolt so that you could spot it from the ground!
We based ourselves at the campsite in Innertkirchen and drove up each day. However, we got into a frustrating cycle of early starts then bad weather coming in mid-morning, then being too knackered the following day to make another early start only for it to be a bluebird day :(
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I've only been once and we did the first 9 (?) pitches of Caminando to the cave. Twas excellent and the approach not as steep as for Pfaffenhut.
Also did a similar number of pitches on something just to the right of your route on the Pfaffenhut. There was a dustbin lid on the first bolt so that you could spot it from the ground!
We based ourselves at the campsite in Innertkirchen and drove up each day. However, we got into a frustrating cycle of early starts then bad weather coming in mid-morning, then being too knackered the following day to make another early start only for it to be a bluebird day :(
Caminando looks amazing, it had a few teams on it as it's a 'Petit' tick. We saw waterfalls down the introductory slabs as in your UKC photo when we went back up on Friday, definitely needs stable weather.
The lid is on Patent Ochsner; how did you find it?
(Ochsner are big waste management company in Switzerland, as well as the name of the first ascentionist, hence the bin lid...).
There were about 10 teams on the crag on Saturday when we arrived, but only 3 or so on the Sunday despite glorious weather. I think most people found one route quite enough for a weekend.
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Excellent Duncan.
The approaches and the grades sound similar to the Gesäuse. Quite Long, Fairly Hard and Blatantly Sandbagged.
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STG - Rebolt project routes, and 8A/+ project.
MTG - Good trip to Tahoe - at least one 8A, and hopefully flash a couple of 7C's. Good Winter Training.
LTG - Finish project routes, and To Bolt.
M-Shoulder Rehab, Bench Press
T-Shoulder Rehab, Deadlift, Boulder, FB
W-Cardio, Doc Appt - said shoulder is a bit of inflammation(impingement). Ice and Vitamin I for 1-2 weeks, then if not better, then he'll give rX for some rehab.
T-Shoulder Rehab, Boulder, Squats, Rows
F-Shoulder Rehab, OH Press, Boulder
S-Shoulder Rehab, Climb w/ Wife
S-Rest, Work
Very active week. Dropping weight all week, then had friends over for dinner on Friday which started the weekend binge.... Back to Square 1 on Monday.
Into working 7 days a week to get personal business off the ground. Going to be a crazy month or two.
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Mon. Nothing shoulder/bicep sore.
Tue. Bike 1hr 20 mins.
Wed. Board shoulder/ bicep felt okish.
Thu. Sore
Fri. Sore.
Sat. Bike 2hrs
Sun. Bike 3 hrs.
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still no idea on goals, just keep improving. Although when I started doing this two weeks ago my MTG was set to more 7's and grit E6's & I accomplished both this week so maybe my goals need raising???
The very obvious way to raise your goals would be to work on improving style, i.e. onsighting routes rather than headpointing mid-extreme stuff. There's loads in the Peak and it would definitely be a way to improve.
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still no idea on goals, just keep improving. Although when I started doing this two weeks ago my MTG was set to more 7's and grit E6's & I accomplished both this week so maybe my goals need raising???
The very obvious way to raise your goals would be to work on improving style, i.e. onsighting routes rather than headpointing mid-extreme stuff. There's loads in the Peak and it would definitely be a way to improve.
Yeah I agree but I'm not interested in climbing to get hurt, so I'm trying to only headpoint routes I'll never have any interest in trying to flash
I don't actually think there are that many really safe (my version of safe) E4/5 in the peak, the ones that are, I'm putting off so I can absolutely guarantee a flash (probably not the greatest idea!)
Congrats on your recent purple patch in Wales
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STG More 7Cs and 8as
LTG 8A 8b
M. Wall, BBC. 30mins on 40degree, tired from weekend.
T. Wall, BBC. Antagonist workout, tried a few hardish problems, still tired.
W. Wall, Boulder Central. Decent number of problems done, few V6 and 7s.
T. Well needed rest
F. Rest, and got myself an interview for Monday, this time in Harrogate - would love to relocate there so fingers crossed.
S. Rest
S. Rest
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routes I'll never have any interest in trying to flash
One thing climbing has taught me is that you never know what might become an onsight/flash objective 5 years down the line... goals and aspirations can move upwards a lot!
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routes I'll never have any interest in trying to flash
One thing climbing has taught me is that you never know what might become an onsight/flash objective 5 years down the line... goals and aspirations can move upwards a lot!
Yeah fingers crossed! I'm using that hope for harder safer routes. still doubt i'll have any desire to onsight routes like monopoly etc!
I found after E3, theres not tooooo many safe E4's & the safe ones are quite a jump in difficulty (Strapadictomy/Profit of Doom etc)
Wheras headpointing seems to help keep me improving & stops me continually repeating stuff I've already done :)
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Tue - kettlebell swings, weights complex, triceps, shoulder barbell carry, abs. This finisher here http://vimeo.com/138076240. The barbell carry is brutal. Fantastic find!
Your finisher alone would finish me off for a week... Nice one.
OK
there are some goals which seem further away than previously
m - bank holiday family fun (pretty good actually)
t - finally got to Berry Head albeit for an evening session with Bruce the Stonemason, first time climbing there so was looking forward to it. Hadn't fully realised that the morning gets the sun so will not be repeating this in September. Did Cavewoman to the block and then back out, up and round. Think some people call it Cavewoman in and out, 6c so they say. It was no warm up though and my arms took a while to recover. Bruce did White Rhino Tea (had it wired) I decided not to try it. We headed round to the start of the big traverses and I had to choose between MMT and RB. I stupidly opted for RB and as the light was fading fell off the crux, swam to a ledge. Tried the wave, fell off again then swam round the corner to the exit. I was fucking freezing by this point and by the time Bruce climbed round the corner I was shivering. A quick yomp back to the bags, dry clothes and hot tea in the van got everyone sorted. I just wish it wasn't 2 hrs drive away or I'd be there 3 times a week in the summer.
w - nothing
t - for
f - rest of
s - the
s - week (not even a pull up)
it was great to get out finally to the DWS but I need to seriously knuckle down on the training front and get some of my spring strength back. I'm not a million miles away though which is something.
onwards...
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;D
Cheers!
Finishers are mentally and physically great! Make your own ones and give them a go. Some weights, therabands, bodyweight excercises, jumps, sprints, anything will do.
:2thumbsup: