UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Andy B on December 20, 2021, 08:42:49 am
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Some new bits at Stanage and Curbar, from earlier in the year. They’re mostly lowballs as i climbed them whilst not able to fall off, due to rehabbing a hip replacement.
Nothing amazing but they add a bit of circuit volume, although Bulldogger is the pick of the bunch and a pretty good problem.
Stanage High Neb
Low (N)eb 7a
The low roof directly under fallen archangel
Lie down start (always a sign of quality) matched in the cool juggy hueco. Pull round the lip and up the grooved arête above.
Fallen Further 6b
The small arête with parallel crack, directly under High Neb Buttress, from a sit start. The slabby side of this boulder is also nice.
Stanage, behind the Cowperstone
Ride em cowboy 6b
Tiny prow/fin behind and left of savage me softly, in a stack of three boulders. The flat right hand boulder is out but the plinth is in. Ride the fin to victory. Pretty morpho I think.
Bulldogger 7a
Sit start in the jug rail on the left side of the Savage Me Softly crack but immediately swing left round the arête and work up the sloping breaks in the higher wall to the top.
Ferret’s Stetson 7a
Sit Start matched in the break immediately right of savage me softly, and work up the bulges to the crimp rail on the slab. Almost close enough to be an easier sequence on SMS for most Boulderers, but a cool sequence nonetheless.
Bronco 7b+
Sit start right again, with both hands at the lip. Work up and left through the bulges to the crimp rail on the slab
Curbar loafstone Area
All filler no killer 7a
The tiny prow on the back of the not a Jerry traverse block. Starting left hand in the shot hole and right hand on the slopey crimp at the same level.
I also did a couple of easy bits on the Boulder that is passed shortly before reaching the loafstone, but I can’t remember the details.
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Nice one Andy. Sounds like a good use of rehab. Someone should compile a lowball list for anyone in a similar boat.
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Some photos of the problems:
Bulldogger, with Bronco chalked on the right and Ferret’s Stetson between (just right of the crack of Savage Me Softly).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yuokdwt436wlpi0/Photo%2020-12-2021%2C%201%2012%2001%20pm.png?dl=0
Low (N)eb
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mqg2k0mzjw3jqjo/Photo%2004-04-2021%2C%2018%2049%2054.jpg?dl=0
Fallen Further
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tw0d36kapt8f4ih/Photo%2004-04-2021%2C%2018%2048%2028.jpg?dl=0
All Filler No Killer
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u5cim25dk1kr4tw/Photo%2028-02-2021%2C%2016%2057%2022.jpg?dl=0
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Hi Andy.
It's funny, I was out there early one a.m. recently, thinking must document these in case anyone else tries to claim them"Must get these done..".
Re Bulldogger, I'd envisaged traversing leftwards along the slopes - even perhaps, starting R of Savage Me.
I was out there years ago with Rich Heap. Did a few things a bit further right, and also on Tea Break buttress or whatever it's called. I think I've uploaded details. Some quality stuff. There are a few things I'd better get out to tick off!
It's a nice spot. Nice work ;D :2thumbsup:
Well done too on getting out there with the new hip. A friend of mine had his replaced recently.
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Hi Andy.
It's funny, I was out there early one a.m. recently, thinking must document these in case anyone else tries to claim them"Must get these done..".
I’m not sure what you mean by this Dave? Are you claiming to have done them or not? I remember you posting about the stuff you did round there and I don’t think these were mentioned.
Re Bulldogger, I'd envisaged traversing leftwards along the slopes - even perhaps, starting R of Savage Me
That’s what I planned prior to trying it, but, as you can reach the top early on, continuing to traverse left seemed contrived, and straight up the wall is a good natural line.
Well done too on getting out there with the new hip. A friend of mine had his replaced recently
Is that Tom?
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Simes from this shire had his replaced recently. Should be OK to mention.
And of course Tom, yes, though that was a little while ago.
Sorry for the confusion. No I haven't done those. If you can remember me writing up the other stuff, I won't have to check!
I was looking at that line of yours and wondering if it would climb leftwards, or feel contrived.
Plenty of other stuff to be done. I'll give Remus a call and see if I can entice him out somewhere! ;D
I need to add something less vague and convoluted to Bonjoy's Grinah thread ;D
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Did all Filler no Killer today.
Smart little problem that and a good find :)
That first move takes some beans though
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I’m glad you enjoyed it. It’s only little but it climbs nicely. That first slap is certainly burly.
Was Not a Jerry’s clean and/or dry by any chance?
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I didn’t have a proper look but no looked green and dirty
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Cheers