UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on March 10, 2019, 03:34:09 pm
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Its felt like its been one of those weeks - unless you only wish to climb indoors :)
M: Work
Tu: Sacked off work at 12 and headed down to Anston. Great session - couple of other folk there that was good to meet (hello!) and for my sins decided to try BetaBlocker again (someone was trying FineBeta so it was easier with pads etc..). Now, for those who don't remember (and why would you - its essentially a dull tale) BetaBlocker is a bit of a nemesis for me. its given 7A - and many people describe it as "soft", "flashed it", "did it in a couple of go's" etc.. But for those with longer lower limbs it seems quite awkard - and as the 'easiest' 7 in that sector its given me some right trouble. Ending with me twisting my knee quite badly on it late last year, So thought I'd try it - and my 'usual' sequence felt clunky - so following the other climbers suggestion, instead of using lots of higher holds etc.. I got the lower diagonal slot with my LH, somethign to the right of it with RH, toe on the edge thats one of reservations hand holds out right from the big edge - and just did a big rock over catching the undercut (with thumb over the top). This felt possible - and subsequent attempts saw me get higher and higher (a close foot popping off moment included) until it went. Thank god. A minor YYFY - and it was good to do something in a more brutal way than I normally do.
Then went and pissed about on Alpha and worked out how I did the bottom part again..
We: Work - home - childcare as wife was out.
Thu: Day with the lad - and I ended up putting him to bed (a long procedure)
Fri: Ended up being another day of childcare as wife had to go to Doctors - she went out in the evening so as per We and Thurs. Knackered - in bed grumpy at 9:30.
Sa: I had a whole day pass! Except the weather was shite. Looking at the forecast I decided to brave an Anston visit (a schelp from Manchester - but I NEEDED to get out. It was fine - pads got wet in showers - but rock was good. A few folk there - maybe a Dozen at the most as some came and went. Good to see Stone and Dave too - and met a few others.
Tried Reservation > Beta Blocker - but the tennis elbow in my left arm was playing up after all the deep lock off and pulls from BetaBlocker on tuesday. Went back to Alpha (it was most out of the showers) and bottom part felt fine - and had a couple of decent plays on the bit from the shelf. But I hate those pockets. They are just so - uncomfortable for me and I get 4-5 attempts on them and then I just find it too painful. Move up to second RH pocket is crux for me - and my stopping point.
Stone was trying the Beretta extension - so I mooched over there and decided to give Beretta a decent go. I've tried this a few times - and always found it really awkward - and not got into the crimpy edges high right heel theme of the problem. But figured as its the only low 7 I've not done at that part (I think) I should give it a decent attempt. Took my time and spent probably 90 min (between chatting) leisurely working the moves. By the end had the start to nose in a 1-er and was just out of gas to make the move up the nose (that I'm not concerned about). So good progress.
Shark made an appearance (wave) - and dispensed some free career advice. I managed not to catch his lurgy.
Su: Ached.
Overall a good week. Its good getting back to Anston and finding I'm stronger (or climbing stronger - with more purpose or better applied ) than I was last year. Grit projects on hold due to the shite weather. Got Monday and Wednesday next week - then away for 8-10 days with work.
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Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.
M - TCA eve, max hangs, did benchmarking session but slightly down on last time (+32.5kg from +34kg in mid Jan) putting it down to night shifts at the weekend. Then bouldering, mostly trying a crimpy problem on the 35 from last weeks comp that I didn't manage. Some progress but still a way off. 40 PU, 30 SU, 10 VSit, 9 LR.
T - TCA eve, tried to boulder but still feeling nights. In the end did a bit of desultory pe, 2x pumpy 7b, 2x more cruxy 7b. 40 PU, 25 SU, 15 VSit.
W - UCR eve, old circuit board had been reset so did those to warm up, 1x6b, 2x6c, 1x 7a+. Then one arm hangs, BW on bigger BM2K slot. 6x7s on each hand, only failed badly on last ones. Pleased with how I've improved on these, but really should be on a smaller edge with assistance. 40 PU, 30 SU, 10 VSit.
T - 40 PU, 25 SU, 10 VSit, 5 LR.
F - TCA am, moonboard. Opened account on Pure Wood LH and RH, concentrating on RH atm. Did all but one move (#3) and linked from start to there. Happy enough for first session. Did new whites (low 6's) after. 40 PU, 20 SU, 10 VSit, 10 LR.
S - TCA, unexpected free afternoon. Tried a bit of bouldering but still feeling Fridays session, so doubles on circuit board instead. 5 sets of 2x7b, 20s rest. Failed second time round on move twenty something on last two sets. 40 PU, 20 SU, 10 VSit, 10 LR.
S - 40 PU, 20 SU, 10 VSit 10 LR.
Av 70 kg.
OK week, disappointed with max hangs but pleased with one arm stuff, think the press ups might be helping with this. Added hanging leg raises to the morning core routine.
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11.1-3 Average 156.7 down 0.6lbs
M
T Malham with Paul, Nige and Cheque Oak dry Go1 Warm up on set up and throw positions and moves Go2. Felt sketchy on footholds at start pulled up to third bolt. Did throw move to horn short rest then horn to top despite feet slipping all over the shop. Came down and inspected shoes - toes had bagged out. Broke out new pair (7th of new model) Decided to change plan and work on links rather than from ground Go 3. Rewarmed up on Consenting and to get used to new pair of whites. Went from second bolt on Oak but lost conviction going for horn but could have got it Go 4. Angry. From second bolt again but this time got horn but fell going right going for sloper. Happy with that - it’s a key link and tIps sore Bonus Go 5. For some reason went back on a final burn. Was cold and tired and back was sore. Pulled up to 3rd bolt Unexpectedly did set up and throw straight off and carried on all way to top without much trauma. Another good sess for Nige - he’s up to the top traverse now
W
T
F Noon. Malham with Nige, Paul and Nick S.Much worse than expected. Oak soaking and not much dry. Rain blowing in, very cold and miserable. Not many options. Decided that going on Raindogs would be more productive than Bat Route crux. F&EE x3. 4 tie ins on Raindogs. First go bolt to bolt (low flake wet and generally a bit greasy). Second go in 3 sections. Third go again in 3 sections. Fourth go it got greasier so took 4 sections. Tied in again on F&EE to do laps but felt terrible and bailed. Gruelling day rewarded by catching a cold
S Sniffles. Walk round Anston with dogs. Eve Dragged out by Sonia to Cheese, wine, board games. Actually enjoyed it.
S Feeling crapper. Walk round Wyming Brook with daughter and dogs. Feeling really rubbish now. Can’t face fingerboarding
Good third session on Oak on Tuesday so it getting wet and getting ill is a setback
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STG - Climb Fighting Torque.
Weight ~75kg.
MTG - Plan Spring Font trip
LTG - 7C
M - Best session yet on FT. 5 redpoint attempts. Two of them matching high point, one slighting lower past undercuts. After that Sam figured out some slightly different beta using a tiny crimp I had discounted before. I reworked that section, doing crux several times various different ways (at some power cost I think). Discovered I could use the crimp to make crux much easier, pulling myself over to left. After that, two more redpoint attempts getting to new crux sequence. Both times, hand on final pinch, once almost sticking before foot popped.
T - Rest. Hip flexibility.
W - Red. Half an hour warm up one hour power on board. Felt strong. Night shift.
T - Red. 20 mins warm up, 20 mins comp problems. 4 sets on traversing circuit. Was aiming for ancap, but was just too long and easy so was probably more like aerocap. 60 moves getting pumped at the end but not close to failure. Hip stretches. Night shift.
F - post nights. Rest, rest, rest. And donating blood which I came quite close to cancelling but then thought that would be whack for the sake of redpointing a route. Priorities....
S - Rest. Hip stretches.
S - Rest.
Back on Fighting Torque tomorrow I hope. Feel very well rested and strong from an arms point of view, but actually been feeling physically quite tired walking around last couple of days. Combination of reasonably busy night shifts and blood loss I imagine. I reckon I’ll be good tomorrow though!
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That sounds like a very good session, Shark. I don't want to see any more second bolt to top. The second bolt is about shoulder height off the ground. If you do it second bolt to top it's a go that you could have done it wasted.
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The second bolt is about shoulder height off the ground.
Wow I knew you were tall - didn’t realise you were a 10 footer
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M - Solid run at lunchtime to blow out the cobwebs and get back into the flow of training. Evening session at Depot. On the 50 board work projects. Started on Zoo York replica easy version and made some progress particularly in the middle section. Went on to start working on LH version of a steady intro. Reasonable start with some links. Felt like really powerful moves for me and excellent training but didn’t manage the final move. Same sort of progress on RH but found first move much harder and kept pinging off it. A big thank you to Bradders for the very valuable beta.
Finished off with some footless bouldering which was good fun. Need to find a couple of problems on main walls for this exercise. Pleasing first day back.
T - Push day. Bench for 3 reps up to 90k off the safety bars and then doubles up to 92.5k for full reps. Followed this with shoulder press for four reps up to 45k. Slow progress but progress. Finished off with close grip floor press for 5 up to 65k, superset with dips. Lunchtime was treadmill 5k and some TRX Push and press ups.
Evening run with Mrs B, running in circles as on call. Finished off with Max Hangs for 96%. Solid enough although very strangely got cramp in my hamstring.
W - An interesting early morning Pull session. Started with deadlifts which I haven’t done for a couple of weeks. Doing singles, went to 150 but stopped while still feeling strong. Then a bit of shrugs and Roman Chair to maintain balance. On to OAP. RH solid with body weight for 4 and added weight up to 0plus 10k, failing at 12. LH managed a dodgy rep at body weight but 2 decent reps at -1.25kilos. Shoulder is definitely improving. Then did some pull-ups with weight up to plus 40k for 3 sets of 3. Finished with some shoulder activations, levers and a few barbell curls.
Steady 5k run at lunchtime.
Evening at the Depot and a bit of a mixed bag, but all good. Started with a bit of campusing to warm up and solid on 1-4-7 which is good to get established at. Then went onto do some Strength Intervals did three different 5-8 move sections of problems on the 50 degree board and was pretty solid. Then went on to do two sets of power triples with a minute rest between for two sets. Did three different Austrian Mock finishes and managed the two hardest for both sets but dropped the easiest on last set as was powered out. Took a rest and a brew and then flashed one of the new pink problems that I’d been challenged to flash when I’d arrived. Very much my style. Finished with 10 sets on circuit board of 1 minute on 2 minutes off. Felt like I’ve fitted a lot in to not very long but felt good.
T - solid Push morning. Bench got doubles up to 90k which felt very steady indeed with plenty left. Followed by triples on decline again up to 90k and then sets on incline. A bit of TRX work and a bit of shoulders.
Run at lunch again and really enjoying it at the moment.
Evening session at the Depot on the comp pinks. Happy enough with progress. Threw in a few reds once I was done as not had chance to get on them yet. Crack on.
F - Pull session. Pull-ups for volume to start followed by OAP up to BW on LH and plus 12 on RH. Then did 3x3 pull-ups with 40k which is about 97% of 2RM and finished upper body with a bit of shoulder activation. Last exercise was squats as I’ve dropped doing individual leg sessions in favour of doing squats once s week as part of another session and deads are often part of my pull day anyway. In the same way, I’ve started throwing in a bicep, triceps and deltoid session each once a week by way of accessory work.
S - Push day. Start with bench and solid for triples up to 90. Then do doubles on decline up to 95 with the final rep being a single at 100, which I’ve never done as a decline before. Bit of incline work at 15 degrees and 30 degrees to get the fibres firing. Going low to chest seems much less stressful for the shoulder. Bit of shoulder pressing up to 26k which is steady but 28 feels beyond me at the moment, keeping plugging away.
On call so treadmill running, 10k while listening to last weeks Sounds of the 80s and reliving my youth.
Afternoon, Max Hangs at 100% which feels tough but doable. Consider the Depot but decide to chill and relax a bit so can give it beans next week.
S - Pull day to finish off the week. Deadlift singles up to 160k matching regular and sumo for a change. Then on to OAP with same sort off effort as Thursday. LH iOS stronger when I concentrate on stability and ensuring that it doesn’t rotate with a couple of good reps along the way. Finish with 3 x 20 pull ups with the last set being dynamic nd bouncing y hands about a bit.
Overall a pleasing week that has hit the sweet spot in terms of effort, fun and reward.
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M: gym session. Bench 3x5 60kg. Shoulder press 3x8 30kg. Fingercurls 3x20 40kg. Zottaman curls 3x12 12kg. Reverse wrist curls 3x12 7kg.
T: rest
W: recruitment FB in the morning. Cave in the afternoon. Got pulled over by the police on route. Repeated RA in terrible conditions and managed from the wobbly block to the triangle hold. Managed to do the moves on cave life over the arch but was v tired and the floodgates started to open!
T: rest
F: campussing, close to 1-4-7, managed 1-5-7 quite comfortably though, not sure if this is easier? Ended up having a marathon seasion - felt ruined after.
S: rest
S: BUK 55 board as didn't fancy chancing the cave again! Took a while to get reaquainted. Managed to send a project I'd been working on and repeat a few things.
Booked a trip to Rockland's in June so feeling psyched about this, need to figure out my ticklist now!
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Nearly went to cave on Sat - seems like Anston was the better option given your report Yetix.
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I think cave was okay on Saturday (some ticking was done Saturday evening I believe), but on Saturday night it rained through the night so I didn't want to chance it after seepage ending my session earlier than expected (probably should have been better prepared for seepage more than anything really, as it could have been better managed)
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Shark that sounds great. I am really rooting for you. Gollum that sounds exhausting. Fair play you sound psyched!
In contrast...
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T-
W-
T-works wasps (6b?) did a few but not many
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S-
S-works wasps did a fair few more
Weight 68.x. Not actively doing anything about it.
Not really sure where to take things at the minute. Back problems have been flaring up but I’m sort of using that as an excuse. I’ll tell you what, either I put in a good week doing all my shoulder and hamstring stretches or I quit clinging to the dream that someday I’ll climb 8A.
I hope everyone has a powerful week.
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Tue 5 Mar
Bouldering in gym flashes + campusing (strength end)
Went surprisingly ok
Mostly flashes or 2-3 attempts on things.
Campus board, biggest rung (slopey, 1.5 phalanx):
2 x 3 x 30s simple laddering (1-2-3-...-15 then down until bell goes off); r = 60s, R=8min. Fell 2s before end of last set
Thur 7 Mar
Climbing outdoors Super Manjoc
with Alex & Ian
6c
8b+ (No war) Bolt to bolt
8b+ RP attempt. Fell 2 moves before glory jug. Hung ~30s, climbed to top
8b+ RP attempt. Fell 2 moves before glory jug.
8b+ RP attempt. Fell 3 moves before glory jug. Hung 1min. Climbed to top
Finished off trying to retro flash Bad Attitude (8a+), but fell on crux.
Deeply annoying not getting back to highpoint. First session I regressed during spring. The fingers always felt fresh, the arms gave up on me. Maybe because of fatigue from Tuesday’s campusing?
Fri 8 Mar
Hangboard
20 mm
-19 kg left 10s -19 kg right 10s
-13 kg left 10s -15 kg right 10s
-9 kg left 10s -11kg right 10s hard but with some seconds in reserve
-9 kg left 10s -11kg right 10s easy-ish on left, hard on right
-7 kg left 9.5s -9kg right 8s couldn’t hold position strict on right hand.
Likely personal best on left hand
Sun 10 Mar
Would have like to go to project, but weather forecast looked horrible. Decided to attempt on Tuesday instead.
Hangboard
20 mm
-9 kg left 7s -10 kg right 7s harder on right
-7 kg left 7s -9 kg right 7s 1-2 s in reserve both hands
-7 kg left 7s -8 kg right 7s 0-1 s in reserve
-7 kg left 6s -8 kg right 5s harder on right
Likely slightly weaker than Friday. Interesting, as I did no climbing on Saturday. About same weight so I don’t think weight can explain the difference.
Bouldering gym
Random bouldering for about 1h, then spend some time setting up a 13 move boulder on a 40deg wall
4 x 13 move; r = 3min
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Back problems have been flaring up but I’m sort of using that as an excuse. I’ll tell you what, either I put in a good week doing all my shoulder and hamstring stretches or I quit clinging to the dream that someday I’ll climb 8A.
Samish, I feel kind of on the verge of back problems but it doesn't materialise, possibly because I keep doing the leg stretches and core work or maybe I'm just storing it up for a big crash. if I do skip a few days i start to feel it so try to be strict to do a circuit of each every other day.
Don't know if you're using hamstring stretches as a catchall term but targetting the Glutes, Hip flexors, quads & lower back will also help plus doing hip mobility stuff, e.g. leg circles, internal rotations, frogger.
Keep it up, 8A all the way.
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M - Anston - warm up extended into refreshing memory on BB then managed Reservation Blocker first attempt from the start.
Moved on to Alpha and managed the move to the shelf so that's the hard bit all worked. Surprised myself and did it from the start to that move.
Spent a while on the top and eventually got it when my RF unintentially snagged a hold under the lip, took a while to then work out which hold it was but was then able to repeat it so just need to link the hard bit and not fluff the finish
T - Curbar - quickly worked out the moves of Late Junction then started trying it. Every attempt to the final move. Fifth go was my definitely my final one and should have done it but somehow came up just short when the final hold felt it was in reach. had to try again and I climbed it so much better, like I knew I had to be super efficient as I was so tired, and was just reaching for the final hold when my heel came off.
Core
Took daughter to mini works after school and she insisted I climb. Nothing hard but a fair volume.
W - wrecked. Some mobility maybe, can't remember.
Th - Leg day, squat, lunge and hip thrust but skipped DLs after first at full weight, thought my back was tweaking but think I was being a bit oversensitive.
Back on handstands after a month or so off, weak as expected
3x sets of scap pullups to +14kg
F - Mini Works to watch nipper in the Sheffield Primary bouldering finals. Team took a repectable third, she flashed 9/12, had tyre issues on 2 when the baggy, hand-me-down, oversize, Simond slippers came off standing on pretty aggressive smears. Did both the problems easily enouogh with decent shoes on so reckon could have scored another flash and a second try, nobody did the 12th problem so she could have been in contention were it not for tight dad. Fairly respectable anyway competing against kids mostly a year above her.
Concert and beers in the evening
S - Felt rough. 3x10mins LI Aero. Tried mobility but didn't have the gas. In bed my 9pm.
S - still rough, pretty sure Friday wasn't messy enough to generate a 2 day hangover so possibly coming down with something. Sore head and throat make the latter favourite. Did a bit of shoulder mobility in the morning, kept thinking I'd pop out to Curbar but the showers kept coming, leg mobility evening.
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Hi Nai, sounds like a good week. Yeah I mean hamstring as a big catchall - foam rolling glutes, doing the elastic band stretches and 90-90 stretches where your legs are sort of in a Manx flag. Stuff like that.
And the shoulders. There’s always something bad about to happen there!
Hope you can get out to Curbar again soon.
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Not really sure where to take things at the minute. Back problems have been flaring up but I’m sort of using that as an excuse. I’ll tell you what, either I put in a good week doing all my shoulder and hamstring stretches or I quit clinging to the dream that someday I’ll climb 8A.
I hope everyone has a powerful week.
Sorry to hear motivation is low. Perfectly normal to have ups and downs though. I think this time of year can be especially draining. Have you had a session on tsunami ( I think that is your 8a rather) recently? I find having a project in mind or on the go is really good for motivation. I can make you done tsunami replicas on the motherboard.
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Sounds like a missed the party at Anston on Saturday. Had half a mind to go but ended up building a wardrobe and going library. Got a cold and Jr not sleeping so probably good I took it easy.
Tue - Voyager VII - not been in a couple of weeks due to sickness. Felt weak and malcoordinated but had a good session. Toby was on hand to give me a push so had a number of assisted goes so that I could top out, which I did after much flailing. The idea had been to try the crux with a little weight taken off but didn't really work as I couldn't weight my hands or feet properly with something pushing back. It was almost like ingrained technique forced me to slump into thing behind me, like back and footing. Chance of getting out wed or Fri this week.
Thurs - hour at the works.
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Murph - I suspect most back problems are caused/exacerbated by seating/posture whilst working/driving etc... For me, once I sort those out then whilst I get niggles - they never get serious (though you have a Volvo IIRC - so its probably not the car :) ). I've just moved to a couple of different pillows (I'm a side/front sleeper) changing my sleeping position a bit and thats helped my back quite a bit...
As an allegory, in my tennis elbow googling - I remember one physio saying something along the lines of "I've never seen a case of tennis elbow that wasnt initially due to computer/mouse use"...
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Th - Leeds Wall routes. Warmed up on stuff up to 6c and then did 5 or 6 sets of 4 on stuff between about 6a and 6b+.
A busy and wet weekend, so no time on the rock this week.
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Tue - Voyager
How many pads do you usually use and more importantly do you stack pads for the start?
I found myself at Burbage last weekend, on my tod with one large organic pad, and went to have a look. Excited to finally check it out, I threw my pad down and quickly realised that I was so stretched out reaching the first hold that I couldn't generate enough bend to actually jump off the floor...
I'm hoping I'm not expected to do a strict OAP to start the damn thing.
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Chance of getting out wed or Fri this week.
If you're out on Weds and want a spot/pad I'll probably be out in the Peak and could wander down that way for a bit (couple of things that end - though not on Voyager! - I could try). Though destination undecided at the moment (forecast/timing blah blah) etc.. (it'll be during the day - 10:30 ~ 3 ish).
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Power Club
Mon - PE high on board problem, x5 with 1' rests, then 20' rest, then x5 again, fell midway through the last go. Happy. Snatch pulls 5x5.
Tue - rest.
Wed - power clean 80% (64 kg) warm up then pyramid then a final monster set of 30 (10 straight reps and 20 in rest pause, with blocks of four).
Thu - rest.
Fri - 3,5 hours of bouldering in a new gym. Shame about the greasy holds and a lanky setting on the hardest problems, apart from that a really nice afternoon.
Sat - rest. Walked all day.
Sun - ut supra.
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STG: Manage aches and pains. Build base of strength and long endurance. One session of bouldering a week.
MTG: Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.
M - Westway ‘bouldering’ (inc. 5 Yellow ‘V2/3’), a good unrushed session. Shoulder strength (Is, Ys and Ts on the rings; side planks; single arm push-ups).
T - Brisk 10km walk.
W - Shoulder strength. Pull-ups.
T - Westway aerocap: 8 mins on, 7mins off for an hour and a half. 300m height gain. Shoulder strength. 10km brisk walking.
F - Shoulder strength.
S - Shoulder strength. Pull-ups. 10km brisk walking. Soirée chez 90s superstar DJ (all extremely tame, the man himself was skiing in Vail of course).
S - Vigorously sick. Nearly first non-exercise day of 2019 but manged a very short fingerboard session late in the day. First for ~3 months so much less than most of your warm-ups.
A decent week, gradually upping the volume. R elbow still a little tweaky but tolerating the increasing load.
Plan: more of the same, build the base, stay fit. Sunday was probably the last chance to get outside this month but April to July should make up for it.
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Good session by the sounds of it Shark. Keep at it, it'll dry off; looked to be improving already yesterday. You going back this week?
Fairly quiet week for me; needed a few rest days and weather was shite.
M- rest and rehab of brachialis and knee
T - ditto
W- ditto
T - Got to the Depot. Felt as though I was treading on eggshells a bit around the various ailments, which were starting to feel better. Felt good on circuits but weak on the board, just wasn't getting the movement right, although did feel good on the undercut problem. Finished with a good set of FOC, 60s on, 30s off x8. Predictably wasted at the end of this. Feeling fit and strong on undercuts but weak on the dynamic and steep stuff on the board. Need to keep an eye on this.
F - bit sore following the session but wore off quickly; encouraged that its nothing too major.
S - went to Wharncliffe, freezing cold. Did the classic HS and bailed; not particularly inspirational but a nice enough crag.
S - Shite weather. Explored Leeds a bit; good Da Vinci exhibition at the gallery if anyone needs to fill an afternoon this week.
St Leger for a week on Saturday, can't wait. Will do a few wall sessions this week and keep an eye on the various tweaky things.
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Good session by the sounds of it Shark. Keep at it, it'll dry off; looked to be improving already yesterday. You going back this week?
No plans to. Would need a report that the Oak is dry and be fully over this cold (feeling a bit better today but still fragile)
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James - a Tsunami replica would be amazing. Also contenders are dancing fish and king of lambs and something on Sean’s. But Tsunami is what I always had in mind.
Tom - there’s no doubt it’s something about my shocking posture. Volvo (good memory) has been replaced with a Skoda but problem predates that.
Recent back problem was really quite bad - upper back pain meant I couldn’t look round much at all. Super frustratingly it came after a concerted attempt to up my stretching routine which really isn’t the sort of feedback one hopes for after eventually doing the right thing.
Really appreciate the kind words. Thanks!
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Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-nine
STG- "Retro-redpoint" Consenting Adults by end of March, onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.
M- Rest.
T- Malham. TR'd Consenting with one hang on warm-up go. Got a bit flash pumped but I really wanted to link as much as possible first go so worth it. Did it clean :dance1: on second go. Absolutely amazing how much one session on this route improved my fitness- the breathlessness I reported last week now seems to have been overcome!
Now the trickier business of leading it. I hadn't led anything apart from easy grit trad and sub-6 indoor routes since my accident (and before that hadn't led harder than 6b+ since the end of August 2017!) so not a straightforward proposition. First RP got to fourth bolt- this is after the first crux but before the second and it seems my brain was only really prepared to lead one hard bit. Went to the last bolt from there (doing the second crux in the process after a few wobbles) but couldn't make myself do the last bolt to the chains on lead. With hindsight I should have jumped off from the bit I found most scary (this has worked wonders for me in the past) but I really just wanted to come down.
Next RP climbed much better and got to the last bolt from the floor but I was clipping each bolt from way too low so felt too pumped to have the confidence to finish it off. Again couldn't commit to the top after hanging. TR'd it at the end of the day in failing light and hung twice due to being battered but did totally refine beta for my new method of doing the top which will hopefully give me the confidence to do it next session- best approach would be to warm up on lead and take some falls while energy and psyche are still high.
W- Rest.
T- Gym. Exercise bike for the first time in a month- levels up 1 from last session in the time-honoured fashion. This has been the bit of rehab that I've phased out to fit more climbing in as I've got stronger but there does still feel to be value in doing it.
F- Foundry Autos. Felt very good. Onsighted two 6bs. Had a few goes on the red 6b+ without progress but made it to the same height (2/3rdsish) on the 7a on the same panel onsight which I think illustrates the folly of placing too much stock in indoor grading. Plenty of burns on various 6c and above routes as well. Didn't want to focus too much on one route as that seems to be the path to finger tweaks.
S- Short walk/ scoot with my sister's family.
S- Race support for girlfriend in Buckinghamshire. Sometimes this involves a bit of walking and carrying but this one was basically just sitting in the car reading the Ogwen guidebook which was welcome as the wind was baltic, it was ridiculously muddy and I was unexpectedly very tired. Pleased to see Rache neither limping or covered in mud at the finish line!
Malham and weekend down south meant that I broke my fingerboard and weight training schedule for the first time in months. I needed a restful weekend anyway and Malham is easily as beneficial for my fingers as the board is as well as in pretty much every other way. Great to be back at a crag trying hard with other people doing the same thing. ;D
Felt disappointed not to get Consenting done on Tuesday but it was like when your team concedes a last-minute equaliser in a match you expected them to lose- whether I led it or not it's unbelievable how much progress I made in two sessions. I would love to get this route under my belt before the anniversary of my accident but a wet crag and a gash forecast for my forthcoming week off work :boohoo: mean that this may not be possible. Hopefully the stars will align and I can get it done.
Leading at my limit is (unsurprisingly) a tough little obstacle to get past, particularly higher up. This is my new target.
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Recent back problem was really quite bad - upper back pain meant I couldn’t look round much at all. Super frustratingly it came after a concerted attempt to up my stretching routine which really isn’t the sort of feedback one hopes for after eventually doing the right thing.
Time to see Louise - high priestess of pain.
PM me for her number
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Goal: 3 x new (to me) Font 7a by end of 2019
M: nowt
T: Gym on lunch - sub 4 min 1k row (PB) then thought I'd do my old shoulder rehab TRX exercises which were surprisingly hard. Finished with military press and chest press, which also felt hard.
W: DOMS, lunchtime stretching to try and alleviate stubborn glute / hamstring pain I've had for ages now
T: As Weds
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Depot with Una (aged 5) in tow. First time she's ever been with me with climbing in mind. Had a really good session, she was keen and did loads and we left because I was tired out, not because she'd lost interest. When I put her to bed later she asked if we could go again next weekend. Bit of a YYFY.
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Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-nine
STG- "Retro-redpoint" Consenting Adults by end of March, onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.
M- Rest.
T- Malham. TR'd Consenting with one hang on warm-up go. Got a bit flash pumped but I really wanted to link as much as possible first go so worth it. Did it clean :dance1: on second go. Absolutely amazing how much one session on this route improved my fitness- the breathlessness I reported last week now seems to have been overcome!
Now the trickier business of leading it. I hadn't led anything apart from easy grit trad and sub-6 indoor routes since my accident (and before that hadn't led harder than 6b+ since the end of August 2017!) so not a straightforward proposition. First RP got to fourth bolt- this is after the first crux but before the second and it seems my brain was only really prepared to lead one hard bit. Went to the last bolt from there (doing the second crux in the process after a few wobbles) but couldn't make myself do the last bolt to the chains on lead. With hindsight I should have jumped off from the bit I found most scary (this has worked wonders for me in the past) but I really just wanted to come down.
Next RP climbed much better and got to the last bolt from the floor but I was clipping each bolt from way too low so felt too pumped to have the confidence to finish it off. Again couldn't commit to the top after hanging. TR'd it at the end of the day in failing light and hung twice due to being battered but did totally refine beta for my new method of doing the top which will hopefully give me the confidence to do it next session- best approach would be to warm up on lead and take some falls while energy and psyche are still high.
W- Rest.
T- Gym. Exercise bike for the first time in a month- levels up 1 from last session in the time-honoured fashion. This has been the bit of rehab that I've phased out to fit more climbing in as I've got stronger but there does still feel to be value in doing it.
F- Foundry Autos. Felt very good. Onsighted two 6bs. Had a few goes on the red 6b+ without progress but made it to the same height (2/3rdsish) on the 7a on the same panel onsight which I think illustrates the folly of placing too much stock in indoor grading. Plenty of burns on various 6c and above routes as well. Didn't want to focus too much on one route as that seems to be the path to finger tweaks.
S- Short walk/ scoot with my sister's family.
S- Race support for girlfriend in Buckinghamshire. Sometimes this involves a bit of walking and carrying but this one was basically just sitting in the car reading the Ogwen guidebook which was welcome as the wind was baltic, it was ridiculously muddy and I was unexpectedly very tired. Pleased to see Rache neither limping or covered in mud at the finish line!
Malham and weekend down south meant that I broke my fingerboard and weight training schedule for the first time in months. I needed a restful weekend anyway and Malham is easily as beneficial for my fingers as the board is as well as in pretty much every other way. Great to be back at a crag trying hard with other people doing the same thing. ;D
Felt disappointed not to get Consenting done on Tuesday but it was like when your team concedes a last-minute equaliser in a match you expected them to lose- whether I led it or not it's unbelievable how much progress I made in two sessions. I would love to get this route under my belt before the anniversary of my accident but a wet crag and a gash forecast for my forthcoming week off work :boohoo: mean that this may not be possible. Hopefully the stars will align and I can get it done.
Leading at my limit is (unsurprisingly) a tough little obstacle to get past, particularly higher up. This is my new target.
Brilliant effort, Cheque. I've always found the low 7s at Malham to be a bit mean. Rose Coronary is good at 6c+. Other than that, if you haven't done much at Troller's Gill then get yourself there. Barguest is a top notch 7a, Jim Grin is excellent (but top end 7a). Barguest Direct at 7a/7a+ is great. A bit steeper than Malham on bigger holds and with friendlier bolting.
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Felt disappointed not to get Consenting done on Tuesday but it was like when your team concedes a last-minute equaliser in a match you expected them to lose- whether I led it or not it's unbelievable how much progress I made in two sessions. I would love to get this route under my belt before the anniversary of my accident but a wet crag and a gash forecast for my forthcoming week off work :boohoo: mean that this may not be possible. Hopefully the stars will align and I can get it done.
Quality once again. Although as I'm sure you know, Consenting is basically bulletproof as far as seepage is concerned so as long as the rain isn't blowing directly onto it you could probably get there this week. That said, it might be a bit grim.
Second Will's suggestion of the Trollers 7's and Rose at Malham.
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Recent back problem was really quite bad - upper back pain meant I couldn’t look round much at all. Super frustratingly it came after a concerted attempt to up my stretching routine which really isn’t the sort of feedback one hopes for after eventually doing the right thing.
Time to see Louise - high priestess of pain.
PM me for her number
That's what I was thinking. 27 months later and no back issues (though I now have a stand up desk and regularly roll on a tennis ball) it's the best money I've ever spent #louiseevangelist
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Cheers guys. Yeah I've done RoCo and F&EE. I really want to get Consenting done to have the 7a tick then move onto routes I haven't done before to be honest. The Grim Jim is a good shout- I tried that on my only visit to Troller's years ago and thought it was ace. More "my style" than any of the central Catwalk 7s. I was on 7th Aardvark on my last little Malham campaign but Yosemite Wall appeals more.
Yeah, Consenting will be dry, it's just harder to car share from when most other routes are wet. I've no complaints with the bolting on it (it's had two moved from when I was last on it and it felt fine to me then) the problem is just my unfamiliarity with leading.
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Cheers guys. Yeah I've done RoCo and F&EE. I really want to get Consenting done to have the 7a tick then move onto routes I haven't done before to be honest. The Grim Jim is a good shout- I tried that on my only visit to Troller's years ago and thought it was ace. More "my style" than any of the central Catwalk 7s. I was on 7th Aardvark on my last little Malham campaign but Yosemite Wall appeals more.
Yeah, Consenting will be dry, it's just harder to car share from when most other routes are wet. I've no complaints with the bolting on it (it's had two moved from when I was last on it and it felt fine to me then) the problem is just my unfamiliarity with leading.
I imagine Yosemite Wall is a good one to flash. Great route; never desperate; some good rests on it: is it 7a+ or 7a? But it crosses a load of straight ups and I can imagine it being a pig to work. Depending on your style, there are some nice 7s to do at Moughton Nab that are basically boulder problems into paths. Same goes for Panorama. Those routes might not be worth the drive from Settle on their own but they're at crags with plenty of nice 6s. Moughton in particular serves as an exposed spot that gets plenty of shade once the morning sun is off it. And then there's Trow Gill which has the friendly, sunny side with some absolute corkers of 6s; contrasted by the Gordale in miniature that is the dark side. Brush With A Goat is 7a and ace.
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M - Complete rest day.
T - 6km run then Climb Newcastle (Pool) and did easy/mid-grade circuit (6A-7A).
W - Sunderland Wall warmed up then did four blocks of ten minute climbing routes with 30min rest in between. Good endurance workout.
Th - Trained at home, did some Max Hangs @ +25kg and then some project bouldering on small holds with board at 30degs.
F - Run/Bike at gym.
Sat - Jesmond Dene Quarry, went with the intention of just getting some fresh air in the rain and clean up the 7C traverse for future attempts before heading in to the wall. Anyway spent half an hour cleaning everything that might be of use and working out some imaginary beta. Thought I would give it a joke try and the beta worked! Ended up doing whole thing second go after a foot slip robbed me on the last move first try. Was gobsmacked it went so easily. :bounce: The day was not a complete success however, walking out in the rain i slipped and stubbed my toe badly. Really Bad.
Sun - Barely slept cos of throbbing toe, the nail had turned black/purple and was bummed out at the prospect of not being able to wear rock shoes for a while. Decided to spend the next couple weeks concentrating on finger boarding, campusing and doing core training.
Went to Climb Newcastle (Valley) finger board/core session and bumped in mate who is an AE doctor. He offered to take a look and said it would be less painful and recover quicker if I released the pressure forming a hole in the nail to let the blood out. He suggested heating a needle over a flame till it was glowing orange then using it to melt the nail and form a hole to let the blood out.
So this was how I spent my Sunday evening and let me tell you poking red hot needles into your bleeding toe nail is not as much fun as it sounds.
Overall a good week and super stoked to have taken another 7C scalp so easily. The toe thing would have really bummed me out if it has occurred a prior to this run of form but it is a bit easier to accept having some time off rock on the back of several successes. And training should be relatively unaffected
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M- late evening bouldering session - felt knackered but went down anyway. had an OK Session
T - nothing. Was going to go running at lunch, but forgot about optician appt.
W - was going to go see free Solo, but fucking sold out. Long climbing session instead, main bouldering section closed, so campus and circuits session.
T - lunch run - weather minging so did trail circuit - 7 km.
F - boulder comp. Climbed pretty well, grabbed what i could. Ended up winning vets for once, and score would have got me 5th in mens. Surprisingly won vets winter series, as they decided to take results from all 4 comps, not best 3. Result.
S - long run. 26km in cold and windy conditions. Could have gone a bit longer at end, but was frozen by that point so sacked it in.
S - Nothing much. Short walk with kids.
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M- Quick ride around some of the trail on The Chevin, pretty muddy and slick but still good fun.
T- Around quick ride around Baildon Moor in the morning, the went for a walk around The Chevin with some work friends. Went to the Depot in the evening but understanderably felt tired, repeated a couple of things on the 50 but ended up climbing on the 30 with Nathaniel and Ben which ended up just being a good laugh on random moves.
W- Went for a social session at The Works for a change of scenery. Climbed on the board for a while with G, did three of the 7c's (Roger Rabbit, DMM>Wildcountry & Spread Eagle) although they'd probably be 7a+ on the Depot beastmaker :worms:. Then ended up have a session on the comp wall with Sam Whittaker and Bosi, suprised myslef by doing 3 of the womans CWIF finals problems.
T-
F- Surf on the East coast. Pumping session at one of the reefs, difficult conditions but some really good waves to be had! https://www.instagram.com/p/BuwgCVLhFC5/
S- The start of a very hectic weekend at work! Had planned to train again in the evening but ended up being involved in a rescue of a customer with a horrendous looking knee/lower led dislocation which made so a stressful afternoon and then the 4 of us involved had to spend the evening writing and submitting report so didn't end up leaving site till 9pm. Then had an evening at the pub and straight to bed, haha.
S- Started off well looking like a quite day until the afternoon again when the sudden storm front hit with hail and 40mph wind so had to carry out a course evacuation and then deal with everyone that couldn't continue. Managed to get a in on the Depot board, repeated a lot of my current problems and tried Steady Intro again but wasn't really feeling it so just sacked in off as I wasn't really in the best mindset.
To top all this off I then got a call from Ellie who'd got for walk on The Chevin that her car had been broken in to and bag stolen and now wouldn't start, so headed out to make sure she wasn't stranded in the snow while we waited for a recovery vehicle.
A hectic weekend at work and a few personal things at the end of the week meant I was feeling a bit stressed and not in a very good mindset for climbing or training. Feeling better today though so hopefully this week will turn out a bit better. It's a strange feeling that for the first time in years I've not missed climbing outside post injury and have been enjoying other things instead so will just have to see where it takes me over the next few weeks, hopefully I'll get some drive back for the sport season and it's just the fact I've missed the winter of bouldering.
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He suggested heating a needle over a flame till it was glowing orange then using it to melt the nail and form a hole to let the blood out.
So this was how I spent my Sunday evening and let me tell you poking red hot needles into your bleeding toe nail is not as much fun as it sounds.
Lovely stuff! Effort on the 7c
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Tue - Voyager
How many pads do you usually use and more importantly do you stack pads for the start?
I found myself at Burbage last weekend, on my tod with one large organic pad, and went to have a look. Excited to finally check it out, I threw my pad down and quickly realised that I was so stretched out reaching the first hold that I couldn't generate enough bend to actually jump off the floor...
I'm hoping I'm not expected to do a strict OAP to start the damn thing.
There's a few blocks lying around I stick under my 2 pads at the start to allow me to reach. I carry 4 pads (one is big, 3 are dmm highball sized) in when I'm on my own, it's fine with 3 actually but I feel better with 4.
How high do you stack the pads? Obviously, you want the pads high enough to make the move easier but low enough that you don't get called out :P it's a fine line
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Chance of getting out wed or Fri this week.
If you're out on Weds and want a spot/pad I'll probably be out in the Peak and could wander down that way for a bit (couple of things that end - though not on Voyager! - I could try). Though destination undecided at the moment (forecast/timing blah blah) etc.. (it'll be during the day - 10:30 ~ 3 ish).
Thanks, I'll let you know what I do
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How high do you stack the pads? Obviously, you want the pads high enough to make the move easier but low enough that you don't get called out :P it's a fine line
I think the only sensible way will be to measure the exact bend in Moon's elbow before he jumped during the first ascent; short people will then be allowed to stack pads and/or stones to gain the correct bend. Taller people may have to dig a small hole to stand in so that their arm can be straighter before jumping ;D
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How high do you stack the pads? Obviously, you want the pads high enough to make the move easier but low enough that you don't get called out :P it's a fine line
I think the only sensible way will be to measure the exact bend in Moon's elbow before he jumped during the first ascent; short people will then be allowed to stack pads and/or stones to gain the correct bend. Taller people may have to dig a small hole to stand in so that their arm can be straighter before jumping ;D
As a taller person I’ve generally found it easier to simply bend my knees than dig a hole...
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As a taller person I’ve generally found it easier to simply bend my knees than dig a hole...
This would only work in this case if you were going to jump without fully straightening your legs!
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As a taller person I’ve generally found it easier to simply bend my knees than dig a hole...
This would only work in this case if you were going to jump without fully straightening your legs!
Easier than digging a hole!
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50mph wind yesterday. No one out climbing on the SW moors so went tor bagging. Enjoyed the climbing hangar, Plymouth after work tonight. Any one else on here climb there?
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50mph wind yesterday. No one out climbing on the SW moors so went tor bagging. Enjoyed the climbing hangar, Plymouth after work tonight. Any one else on here climb there?
I have a few times when I'm down but up in Sheffield mainly. Good place, good setting from Mikey et al.
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M - Wall. Felt ok after relatively strenuous session the previous day. Spent about an hour doing AnCap, which I’d not done before in a particularly structured way. Quite enjoyed the technique / precision improvement vs power slipping away aspect with each consecutive rep. 4 problems x3 x2 sets. Returned to the 7a on the circuit board (which I was failing on the previous week. Did it 7x with 3-4 min rests, coming off a couple of times at the end. Then 7x 1min foot on campus on large / medium rungs alternating. Felt battered by the end.
T - 12km trail run. Didn’t feel good - slow, and the only run I’ve wanted to given up on this year. But had to get back for parents meeting so had to push on.
W - Started a deadhanging session but quickly realised I was still tired.
T + F - Rest (and daytime napping)
S - Wall. Recovered(ish) but felt a bit weak and heavy. Tried to focus on technique and footwork, and made some progress on some steeper things despite general lack of ooomph. Quite a long session.
S - Beastmaker. Some repeaters first, and then max hangs. Managed -24kg for 10sec a few times, but didn’t have time to try 22. Hopefully I’ll be able to get down to the teens with some more weight loss.
Weight hovering around 88-89kg
Totally wiped out at the start of the week - wondering if this was a mixture of overdoing it slightly coupled with a bug of some sort.
Reflecting on routes and endurance training, I started thinking that, even with some more weight loss, I’m still some way off being strong enough for the harder / steeper routes (and boulders) I really want to do, and therefore would be better served by trying to make more strength progress with a bit of endurance on the side, rather than adding a load of endurance work which compromises the former. Particularly as possible Spain route trip is (hopefully) going to be in the autumn. Even if I can get down to 80kg, it’s increasingly obvious that there’s lots more work to be done in terms of pulling harder on smaller things. I think it’s time to take a leaf out of Nibs’ book...
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Some really interesting training diaries here.
Huge variety in terms of volume/intensity, and things like running/not running, handstands, deadlifts etc.
A lot of food for thought.
Gollum, will pm you about your running.
Nibile - no mention of watching the Motogp on Sunday ;) good race!
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Some good weeks in here, plus commiserations for others. Cheque your updates always get me psyched.
M - chanced Crow Crag in the afternoon. Warmed up on Losing My Edge and did it first go with the new beta starting matched on the arete jug and going up to crimps on the face. Much easier than the original but probably better. Briefly tried Fluide and actually felt good on it. When I tried it last the hold used to really hurt my fingers but that seems to have passed and I hit just a couple inches below the top! Then it chucked it down. Depot Board on the way home. Few warm ups then AM first go. Two goes on Zoo dropping the crux. Few goes on Steady Intro and couldn't do the first two moves but did the stand to the penultimate move. Two poor goes at Palmer Sutra.
T - lunch gym, TRX maximal Is and Ts mainly, short and sweet.
W - Depot Board. Better session. Still couldn't do the move on Palmer Sutra. Mainly tried Steady Intro, had loads of goes and at least did all the moves this time and felt steady on the third move onwards. Couple of goes on Zoo and one poor attempt at Palmer Ham before I was finally so tired I couldn't even do Austrian.
T - rest
F - Depot again, did a couple of purples then flashed pink 27 which was easy. Then one arm max hangs on low BM2K centre edge, did a benchmarking session total of 7 hangs on each arm after warm up. Best managed 10s w/ 6.25kg assistance & 5s w/ 5kg on LH, and 10s w/ 8kg & 5s w/ 7kg on RH.
S - escaped terrible weather in Yorkshire to go to Hepburn. Repeated Rheumatology 2nd go, then Another Flake. Briefly dropped a rope down Prep H and got a feel for the holds but others I was with were keen for Trivial Pursuit so tried that and got close but no cigar. It was absolutely freezing in the wind so went down to try Daze of the Weak and did it 4th go having fully puntered the top on my 3rd. Lovely day, worth the 15hrs door to door.
S - rest
Last proper training sessions before Font next week. Bit disappointed that my high point on Steady Intro the week before seems to be more an anomaly than breakthrough but didn't do too badly I suppose. Pleased with significant progress on the one arm hangs! Hoping it all comes together now for a good week next week.
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Couple of weeks missing, good trip to Prilep, Macedonia. Warm conditions and very sharp rock. Interesting country and worth going to on a trip. Nothing ticked harder than 7A+ but a good trip nonetheless.
Hastily put together video below:
https://vimeo.com/323303176
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Nibile - no mention of watching the Motogp on Sunday ;) good race!
Ahaha it's been a very busy weekend Dave! Thursday afternoon I went to Torino for the first presentation of 1001 Climbing Tips, then to Milano for another one on Friday.
Then I spent Saturday and Sunday in Milano walking all day, going to museums :smartass: :geek: and trying not to spend a fortune in clothes. I ate like a bastard.
I got back to Florence and stopped for dinner, that I ate watching the Motogp, and telling my girlfriend "Just another lap then we go".
Brilliant race.
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I think it’s time to take a leaf out of Nibs’ book...
Ahaha Nib's book isn't very exciting at the moment. I am a lot more psyched for weights than bouldering and fingerboarding.
In any case, I would sack the running completely: nothing is going to happen on the strength side if you keep running.
You could exchange it for walking. Much much better.
But the Holy Grail of fitness is: loaded carries. You can tailor them on the strength side or on the endurance side. They're the best thing on earth.
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Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.
Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.
The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?
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Were there any dogs around that day?
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Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.
Haha cheers Murph, yeah it's a great "off the beaten track" destination.
Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.
Yeah that was a good one, tough for the short - I had to do double the number of moves as my mates
The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?
The shepherds would herd their sheep up round the boulders, I topped out and walked straight into 3 massive dogs which chased me back up the boulder...
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Top effort Shark, next good day then!
Really enjoyed the video Coops, kept it together on the footslip nicely.
F: campussing, close to 1-4-7, managed 1-5-7 quite comfortably though, not sure if this is easier?
Usually when this is the case it means you are essentially locking from 5-7, meaning you have good finger strength but need a little more pulling power for 4-7. Strong stuff either way.
My week was focusing almost entirely on getting some enthusiasm back, which lead me to doing horrendous pumpy linkups at the wall and loving it. Thank god for that.
M - rest
T - Endurance training at the wall. Did a few of the easier linkups on the panel (generally involving the white 6c ish circuit into a 6A-6C boulder).
W - More wall, more linkups. Added a dedicated page to the panel book for others to try them. Found a hard linkup through all the steepest panels using the poorest holds. Linking a hard tensiony 7A+ into a pumpy 7A+ that you can't rest on, followed by a final desperate slog round the white. This gave me something to focus on working towards (thought it would be long term). Enthusiasm for pumpy traverses and routes suddenly through the roof.
T - rest. Tendonosis feeling bad at the moment so pushups and rethinking my recovery strategy.
F - Working some of the harder linkups. Found a harder but better sequence through the cave for the big rig, so eliminated some of the holds to make it cruxy and exciting. Turning the first 7A+ to 7A+ section into an unrest-able relentless 7B not too dissimilar from some of the cromlech roadside links.
S - Rest. More tendonosis exercises.
S - Hungover.
Apart from the tendonosis coming back with a vengeance (though responding well to exercises at the moment) this was the week I needed. Still working at about 70% power but my endurance feels great. Looking forward to getting the ropes out and heading off to LPT when the weather improves.
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Good to know!
Managed 1-4-7 on the smaller rungs yesterday, so getting back into the swing of things again campussing after not done it for close to a year I think
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Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.
Haha cheers Murph, yeah it's a great "off the beaten track" destination.
Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.
Yeah that was a good one, tough for the short - I had to do double the number of moves as my mates
The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?
The shepherds would herd their sheep up round the boulders, I topped out and walked straight into 3 massive dogs which chased me back up the boulder...
Coops - if you have the time/inclination I’d love to hear/read a write up. The bouldering looks great but I’m interested in what the place is like - how was travel there etc...? What was the vibe of the place. never know you might get yerself a ukc article :D
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F: campussing, close to 1-4-7, managed 1-5-7 quite comfortably though, not sure if this is easier?
Usually when this is the case it means you are essentially locking from 5-7, meaning you have good finger strength but need a little more pulling power for 4-7. Strong stuff either way.
I find 1-4-6.5 about the same difficulty as 1-4.5-6.5, but am better leading RH on the former and leading LH on the latter -odd?
Vaguely thought the difference was mostly due to the trailing hand but not really come up with a reason
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S - escaped terrible weather in Yorkshire to go to Hepburn. Repeated Rheumatology 2nd go, then Another Flake. Briefly dropped a rope down Prep H and got a feel for the holds but others I was with were keen for Trivial Pursuit so tried that and got close but no cigar. It was absolutely freezing in the wind so went down to try Daze of the Weak and did it 4th go having fully puntered the top on my 3rd. Lovely day, worth the 15hrs door to door.
I guess that must have been you I met at A Northern Soul/Prep H Bradders? Thanks again for sticking your pads under A Northern Soul and your words of encouragement. I'd wanted to do it for years, total class. Good work on Daze of the Weak.
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I guess that must have been you I met at A Northern Soul/Prep H Bradders? Thanks again for sticking your pads under A Northern Soul and your words of encouragement. I'd wanted to do it for years, total class. Good work on Daze of the Weak.
Was indeed! I did wonder when you said your name was Gaz :lol:
Good effort on Northern Soul, such a class boulder. Hope you've had a good rest of the trip!
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Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.
Haha cheers Murph, yeah it's a great "off the beaten track" destination.
Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.
Yeah that was a good one, tough for the short - I had to do double the number of moves as my mates
The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?
The shepherds would herd their sheep up round the boulders, I topped out and walked straight into 3 massive dogs which chased me back up the boulder...
Coops - if you have the time/inclination I’d love to hear/read a write up. The bouldering looks great but I’m interested in what the place is like - how was travel there etc...? What was the vibe of the place. never know you might get yerself a ukc article :D
Neither the time nor inclination unfortunately. Happy to answer any questions / give tips though :)
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James - a Tsunami replica would be amazing. Also contenders are dancing fish and king of lambs and something on Sean’s. But Tsunami is what I always had in mind.
Ask an be ye shall receive!
I've done two problems saved on the motherboard, user name is highrepute. Tsunami hard is pretty good I reckon if you use the metal footholds. I've given it 7c as I'm afraid to give any harder but I could do 50% of the moves so must be hard.
Tsunami easy is there as a string stone. I given it 7a+ which I think is fair as I did it first go I tried it from the bottom. Can't remember which feet I used.
Although I don't think the motherboard is great for making replicas it probably works pretty well for tsunami as keeping your feet on for the match is almost the crux.
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Thanks James. Something to aspire to. It’s light years ahead of where I am at the moment but that’s the point. Much appreciated.
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Thanks James. Something to aspire to. It’s light years ahead of where I am at the moment but that’s the point. Much appreciated.
Np. I wouldn't say light years, sounds a bit negative. 8a is only one grade harder than 7c+ which you've done. These things take a lot of time for us mortals too. I must have had a dozen sessions on tsunami where I still couldn't do all the moves. And that's on top of years of climbing on that wall. Just keep chipping away. And that before I had kids when life was easy. I have a mantra of sorts which is keeping trying and you'll do it! Stay positive.
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Just keep chipping away.
...not literally
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Oh no dude, I’m totally positive about it. It’s just 5 hand moves into a 7B that I’ve done before....which is, oddly, exactly what AT was.
Taking 7C+ for AT (which I don’t) my pyramid looks like this:
7C+ 1
7C -
7B+ -
7B 7
7A+ 7
7A 18
Adding an 8A on top of that would be ridiculous but ridiculouser things have happened!
Further aside, but while watching dawn wall I thought if they can put all that work in to climb their rock then I can and should dig significantly deeper to climb mine. Anyway that’s what inspired me to up my game, announce an impossible dream and work towards it just not underestimating the challenge.
Thanks again for the training routes nice one :boxing:
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That's a quality pyramid, or should I say raindrop falling on a cowpat ;-)
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It sounds like some sort of alien artefact, with a broad base and a floating obelisk!