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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 01:06:39 pm

Title: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 01:06:39 pm
Three problems on the boulder that is visible from the Back Forest parking at Roach End.

Bare Hug (mid to high 6)
The left arête.
Sit start on the arête, with a stiff pull to the rib, then hug this and the left arête to the top

Nasty Nelly (low to mid 7)
The central line
Sit start on opposing crimps, pull up to the sloping central arête then up right to the jug on top.

Nelly's Nethers (low to mid 6)
The right arête.
Sit start on the arête, pull into the scoop, then jugs out left to rock back into the scoop.

Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: teapot on November 07, 2017, 01:25:02 pm
Any photos? Is it the boulder attached to the old house? I think that is visible from the parking or that boulder up and to the right of the path, which definitely is.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 02:00:33 pm
I've got photos of the boulder and a vid of Nasty Nelly but I can't access my photobucket at the mo. (Is there a way of uploading straight from phones now?). It's not attached to a house. I think it's the first boulder on the walk in towards the Roaches, on the right side of the track.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2017, 03:48:14 pm
I think you can upload photos straight from phone using Tapatalk.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: dave on November 07, 2017, 03:54:05 pm
Tapatalk that no longer works.....

Andy if you stick the photos in a google drive or dropbox they should be able to display on here OK. Photobucket seems an unusable shitshow of popup adverts these days.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 08:36:32 pm
Bare Hug:
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/mcybo8b9p7aztnh/Photo%2005-11-2017%2C%2015%2052%2005.jpg?dl=0)
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 08:37:26 pm
Hmm. That didn't work then.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 07, 2017, 09:03:12 pm
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mcybo8b9p7aztnh/Photo%2005-11-2017%2C%2015%2052%2005.jpg?dl=0
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 09:14:21 pm
Is the whole folder viewable with that link or just the one photo? I don't have a clue what I'm doing with Dropbox.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 09:57:43 pm
Nasty Nelly and Nelly's Nethers

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bsgipfa48p60b41/Photo%2005-11-2017%2C%2015%2051%2014.jpg?dl=0
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 07, 2017, 09:59:34 pm
Nelly's Nethers and a side view of Nasty Nelly:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/67a61g4tglawncs/Photo%2005-11-2017%2C%2015%2051%2036.jpg?dl=0
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Bonjoy on November 08, 2017, 12:27:30 pm
Sorry Andy, I did one of these last year. Written up in this update post - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27482.msg534457.html#msg534457

Quote
Roaches – Bearstone Rock
This is the name given on the OS map to the westmost boulder at Roach End, obvious from the nearby parking. Worth a stop-off given it’s the shortest approach of any block on the crag.
* Ursa Major 7A+ - Climb the front right prow/arete from a sit start on a thin flake.  A hard move off an unhelpful pinch.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: Andy B on November 08, 2017, 01:11:08 pm
That's alright, I only did them as I walked past, after failing to get parked at the other end. That's the best of the three, but the other two are decent as well.
Title: Re: [Peak][Roaches][Roach End Rock][3 problems]
Post by: dave on November 08, 2017, 01:21:16 pm
You walk past these as you approach far skyline from the north end parking right?
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