UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: remus on September 22, 2022, 10:10:24 pm
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Im trying to track down when Jerry did The Ace. In this interview it mentions 2002 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/jerry-moffatt-interview.html but then there's a UKC piece (purportedly from December 2001) talking about Malc repeating it https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119 so they can't both be right.
Peak bouldering doesn't have a date and neither does the stanage definitive.
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I think the Planet Mountain date is erroneous. The UKC article is dated, I don't see how that could be wrong as its the original article from 2001.
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The UKC article doesn’t say he did the Ace but that he nearly did it. It’s not clear in the report but Simon Panton confirms it in the thread
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I think the UKC article confirms that Malc got close to repeating the Ace in Dec 2001. Therefore Jerry must have done the FA either earlier that winter or the winter before.
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Climber (probably Keith Sharples) says 2001 here: https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/
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2000 according to the significant ascents and dates in Revelations :smartass:
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2000 according to the significant ascents and dates in Revelations :smartass:
Of the sources available Revelations seems most likely to be correct, though wouldn't put a little looseness of memory past Jerry!
Thanks for the correction on Malc's ascent too, misread the UKC article.
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Peak Rock says 2001.
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Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)
I've had a trawl through the UKC news archives and there's no mention of it. There is a bit of a sparsity of items in march and april though so I wonder whether whoever did the news at the time was on holiday? Hard to imagine Jerry doing a new 8B in the middle of plantation would go unreported otherwise.
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You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
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Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)
Wouldn't be the only topo.
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OTE 114 February 2002 states Malcolm will have climbed The Ace by the time you read this report.
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You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.
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8) strong work!
It seems feasible he could have done it in December 2000, so maybe the date in revelations could be correct? Shawn Raboutou style.
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You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.
Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.
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Jerry does the Ace in Stick It which came out in 2001. I don't know whether that was the actual ascent though or just a reenactment.
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I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though
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I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though
Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads
"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."
So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??
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I always trust other sources over my own.
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Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.
There's limited info, but here you go.
OTE :-
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1dykir55wmt3gnt/IMG_1879.HEIC?dl=0
Si Panton's Bouldering Scene (one of the few good bits of Climber back then) :-
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gebjryx75unokr6/IMG_1880.HEIC?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/si6o6zeoxhe47kp/IMG_1881.HEIC?dl=0
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Thanks for digging those out :bow:
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I really miss that style of news reports :'(
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I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though
Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads
"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."
So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??
Yeah, I dunno. I’m too old to remember that far back now
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I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though
Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads
"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."
So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??
Yeah, I dunno. I’m too old to remember that far back now
The drop box link from Stabsy (Si Panton’s one) says that Ben Moon had a different sequence - two days later it went down.
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Has anyone ever seen Stu and Ben in the same room? :-\
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I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though
Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads
"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."
So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??
Yeah, I dunno. I’m too old to remember that far back now
The drop box link from Stabsy (Si Panton’s one) says that Ben Moon had a different sequence - two days later it went down.
"I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence that Ben Moon had been trying"
Who do you think informed Jerry of Moon's new beets...? It's no coincidence that a certain someone has Jerry as his UKB avatar #TeamJerryForLife ;D
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Outrageous slander.
Ben & Jerry had been trying it via a completely bizarre sequence going initially with the right hand. They couldn't do the first move. I'd been trying it without success using the now accepted beta, I couldn't do the last move.
One day, Jerry was there the same day I was trying it... Not sure where the idea that Ben had new beta came from - that's not how I remember it.
20-odd years later I've still not done it. :slap:
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20-odd years later I've still not done it. :slap:
Yet.
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20-odd years later I've still not done it. :slap:
Yet.
For sure. Don't give up. Look at dawid. He managed it after 20 years! Hero!