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1
shootin' the shit / Re: Politics 2020
« Last post by TobyD on Yesterday at 11:36:43 pm »

https://inews.co.uk/news/politics/boris-johnson-claims-eu-leaders-dont-understand-northern-ireland-brexit-row-rages-g7-summit-1048797
Boris Johnson claimed EU leaders “misunderstand that the UK is a single country” as rows over the Brexit deal threatened to overshadow the G7 summit in Cornwall.
...
He added: “I’ve talked to some of our friends here today, who do seem to misunderstand that the UK is a single country, a single territory. I just need to get that into their heads.” The Prime Minister told Channel 5 that the EU was being “theologically draconian” and causing “unnecessary barriers to trade”.



Except that the UK ceased to be a homogenous trade area when Johnson signed the treaty... its clear that someone is either stupid or feigning stupidity here, and I'm pretty sure it's not the EU.
2
shootin' the shit / Re: Coronavirus Covid-19
« Last post by petejh on Yesterday at 11:30:35 pm »
Opening on June 21st was uncertain from the day they announced the staged process months ago. No prudent business owner would ever bank on that date as 100% certain.

I’m sorry, but this is pompous nonsense. And an irrelevant aunt sally which ignores the pressures of trying to stay afloat after 16 months of pandemic.

My point, which you are free to -and clearly do- object to, is that the failure to exercise basic control over borders despite evidence of the potential dangers of the delta variant has seeded and accelerated a new wave. The policy cannot have been truly evidence based when Pakistan and Bangladesh were on the red list but not India. Whilst Johnson was hoping to meet Modi, it’s obvious why.

The variant would arrive at some point, but the rapid loss of control causes chaos. And businesses, as you know, need to plan.

The government owes the country a duty of competence. Instead, it’s cavalier.

You're clearly upset about this. And yes I do clearly think you're talking rubbish. I'll leave you to it.
3
Sorry if this has been posted already. Fascinating video about Bitcoin, from The Economist:



I may have heard something about the energy required to process Bitcoin, but I was unaware that the environmental impact was possibly as significant.
4
diet, training and injuries / Re: Over-gripping, is this a thing?
« Last post by petejh on Yesterday at 11:24:24 pm »
I think from a physics perspective "overgripping" and "climbing badly" are often synonymous. Perhaps it would be better described as "climbing (or even resting) badly due to being scared and/or tense".

If overgripping actually means "breakdown of technique due to heightened arousal" it is a thing, and one of the best described phenomenon in the science of motor leaning. Why would you need a non-descriptive name for it though?

Because it describes perfectly well the sensation, if not the physics? We are humans after all and not dynometers.

Also, as Fultonius points out the rock is unyielding. Same as an ice axe shaft. Which as a non-physicist I can confirm can be gripped either very very lightly or very very tightly (in fear) with no difference in effect on the tip of the axe pick on the rock.
5
shootin' the shit / Re: Coronavirus Covid-19
« Last post by TobyD on Yesterday at 11:14:31 pm »
I don't doubt any of that. But it doesn't lead on that your point about border policy is the reason for their struggle and possible failure. There's no way you can isolate that one factor among a myriad of interconnectedness to do with a pandemic and trying to come out the other side of it, and single it out as the reason for any business to fail. Opening on June 21st was uncertain from the day they announced the staged process months ago. No prudent business owner would ever bank on that date as 100% certain.

I pretty much agree with Pete here, the only thing that's set up the 21st as 'freedom day' is various newspapers and a chunk of conservative backbenchers. Originally all the dates were earliest possible unlocking dates. Unfortunately,  Johnson's rhetoric has played along with this narrative however in an attempt to cultivate popularity,  so it is in significant part still his fault.
6
shootin' the shit / Re: Coronavirus Covid-19
« Last post by mrjonathanr on Yesterday at 11:10:30 pm »
Opening on June 21st was uncertain from the day they announced the staged process months ago. No prudent business owner would ever bank on that date as 100% certain.

I’m sorry, but this is pompous nonsense. And an irrelevant aunt sally which ignores the pressures of trying to stay afloat after 16 months of pandemic.

My point, which you are free to -and clearly do- object to, is that the failure to exercise basic control over borders despite evidence of the potential dangers of the delta variant has seeded and accelerated a new wave. The policy cannot have been truly evidence based when Pakistan and Bangladesh were on the red list but not India. Whilst Johnson was hoping to meet Modi, it’s obvious why.

The variant would arrive at some point, but the rapid loss of control causes chaos. And businesses, as you know, need to plan.

The government owes the country a duty of competence. Instead, it’s cavalier.
7
diet, training and injuries / Re: Over-gripping, is this a thing?
« Last post by Fultonius on Yesterday at 11:09:19 pm »
Could it be to do with the slight mechanical advantage you get from the "friction" inside your tendon sheath? Does that not supply about 10% of your force, when in slight extension?so hitting a crimp, engaging but then relaxing into it might gain you 10‰ of your required force for free?

Also, on incut or friction based holds, you can apply a static force that is basically trying to "crush" the rock. Newton is satisfied by the incompressible nature.

Little experiment for you next time you're at the crag - grab an incut hold and try to hold it (not pull on it) as hard as you can. Did you fly away?
8
diet, training and injuries / Re: Over-gripping, is this a thing?
« Last post by lagerstarfish on Yesterday at 11:05:00 pm »
I think from a physics perspective "overgripping" and "climbing badly" are often synonymous. Perhaps it would be better described as "climbing (or even resting) badly due to being scared and/or tense".

If overgripping actually means "breakdown of technique due to heightened arousal" it is a thing, and one of the best described phenomenon in the science of motor leaning. Why would you need a non-descriptive name for it though?

Because humans
9
diet, training and injuries / Re: Over-gripping, is this a thing?
« Last post by jwi on Yesterday at 10:59:51 pm »
I think from a physics perspective "overgripping" and "climbing badly" are often synonymous. Perhaps it would be better described as "climbing (or even resting) badly due to being scared and/or tense".

If overgripping actually means "breakdown of technique due to heightened arousal" it is a thing, and one of the best described phenomenon in the science of motor leaning. Why would you need a non-descriptive name for it though?
10
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by Kingy on Yesterday at 10:53:57 pm »
Was it Nic who onsighted the fa of homegrown at cheddar (8a+)?

Vickers I thought?

oh yes it was, my bad. Got them mixed up
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