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1
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Dingdong on Today at 03:15:42 pm »
I’m pretty sure Liam has spent more time developing that massive roof (see weeks) in hawkcliffe than most developers would do bolting 5 20m sport routes and yet he has been more than happy to give it away for others to do.
2
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Liamhutch89 on Today at 03:04:40 pm »
Have you bolted many lines Liam?

No, but if you're using that as a measure of time, work and expense put into developing rock then it's a poor one, so I fail to see the relevance.
3
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by dunnyg on Today at 02:51:27 pm »
Have you bolted many lines Liam?
4
conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Woodwell Conditions
« Last post by abarro81 on Today at 02:31:27 pm »
Anyone know if Trowbarrow or Warton are dry at the moment? (I don't mean literally now, I mean if they've been seepy recently)
5
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Liamhutch89 on Today at 02:14:00 pm »
Seriously you can GTFO with that attitude.  I've had this conversation in person many times and I just tell the wads to bolt their own projects, tell them a half dozen options, then mention how being a repeater of routes add nothing to the community.

Bloody hell.

Wads are welcome on the projects that I've opened and have been trying. I'd be psyched to see them done!
6
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by rjtrials on Today at 12:44:43 pm »
I suppose in my own mind, I view people who "steal" overly protracted closed projects more favourably than I do people who don't open them freely after they are several years old. But no one ought to mind what I think.
As mentioned above, the "stealer" often doesn't leave the route in an optimal state for repeaters.

As a direct response, how do you know if a project is defacto open or closed without directly talking to the person responsible for developing the climb ?
Are you relying on hearsay?

As an example, I was partly responsible for resurrecting a crag that had lain dormant since 2015.  Most of the routes had anchors that needed attention, and the name plaques had all faded etc etc.
I reached out to one of the developers, he sent a pic of his hand drawn topo. I started a Google doc and invited the other two main developers to add the info they had.  We put chains on some classics, I added / moves bolts etc etc .
It became a hopping zone this fall and not only were the people new to the zone psyched , the OG's were excited we were fulfilling the vision and making the crag better than they had left it.

Of course there were a couple undone routes and I was encouraged to finish them.

A wad was visiting one day, not falling on anything, and enquired if the projects were open or closed.

I told him I had talked to the bolters and had specific permission to do what needed to be done (I added anchors bolts, belay bolt, chains etc) and if he wanted to climb on the other projects he should do the same.  Crestfallen he waited until I sent and then casually flashed the second ascent.

But seriously, how hard is it to just text someone and ask about a line?  How lazy are you that you will whine about a 'closed' project yet won't pick up the phone let alone the drill, hammer , brushes etc.

Seriously you can GTFO with that attitude.  I've had this conversation in person many times and I just tell the wads to bolt their own projects, tell them a half dozen options, then mention how being a repeater of routes add nothing to the community.
7
beta - bouldering / Re: what's Hot Toddy RH?
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 12:04:56 pm »
Decent problem, but not three stars however it's climbed.

Write a strongly worded letter to the guide book publishers :)
8
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by cheque on Today at 09:40:59 am »
9
shootin' the shit / Re: Climbers recovering from covid
« Last post by webbo on Today at 09:37:54 am »
I don’t know whether this has been mentioned on here but the Nuffield have a free long Covid scheme. I don’t know any details but it is mentioned when you ring their hospital switch board.
10
bouldering / Re: Limestone 7B
« Last post by teestub on Today at 08:21:53 am »
Does it have to be in or close to the Peak? If not, I highly recommend this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lighthouse_area-272/force_majeure-365276#overview

That is a cracker! About 60 degrees steeper than most other Portland offerings too 😄
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