is it only on eurosport like last season?No qualis live don't think but as far as I can tell Semis and Finals on Discovery.
No, not thick just easy to miss.
Two groups, A & B, you need to look at both groups, Hamish 12lth in group A , Max 9th in group B.Top ten in each group go through.
Not over yet though!
Only Jim through for UK.
I thought we might do well this season. Only 1st comp I guess.
Shows the depth of the field.
Only Jim through for UK.
I thought we might do well this season. Only 1st comp I guess.
Shows the depth of the field.
Think I'm right in saying both Hamish McArthur and Toby Roberts would have made it if they'd been in Group B. Harsh.
I might be wrong on this, but I believe the groups are derived from world rankings, or season rankings, or similar. So top of said rankings goes into group 1, second goes in 2, third in 1, so on, so on. That'd end up with as fair groups as possible, right?
I might be wrong on this, but I believe the groups are derived from world rankings, or season rankings, or similar. So top of said rankings goes into group 1, second goes in 2, third in 1, so on, so on. That'd end up with as fair groups as possible, right?
Maybe Graeme can correct me on that at some point.
Max two tops at women semi,. The scores are really weird.
Is it getting more and more about luck?
I would be strongly in favour of scrapping the semis and having a 2 day final with half the competitors eliminated after the first day. There is just so much variability in the type of problems that can be set and effect of height etc. There is currently a lot of potential for perceived unfairness.
Max two tops at women semi,. The scores are really weird.
Is it getting more and more about luck?
Potentially, but also it's always hard to tell who's in form, and the general level of the field, in the first comp of the year. Added to that, lots of climbers at the top like Janja and Natalia spent most of last season asking for harder boulders. So i'm sure they can hardly have any complaints when that happens!
Only one boulder didn't get topped in semis, that's actually a decent set IMO. Especially since it had varying attempts to get the zone - better than a boulder where the top 10 all flash it, giving no separationI would be strongly in favour of scrapping the semis and having a 2 day final with half the competitors eliminated after the first day. There is just so much variability in the type of problems that can be set and effect of height etc. There is currently a lot of potential for perceived unfairness.
I'm not sure I follow. Would it be 20 people do final part 1, and then 10 people do final part 2? Sounds a lot like the current system! ;D
I think it is fair to say that currently the results in the final and strongly influenced by the routersetters.
I guess for me the obvious comp was the Olympics where Coleman got 2 tops and no one else got more than 1. So effectively the gold medal was decided by one boulder and the inability to comprehensively split the rest of the field. If they had stuck in a crack climb or a long reach and Ondra would have won gold.
A total of 3 tops in female finals isn't that impressive though. With a max of 2 tops per person in the semi i would have thought they figured they were a but off with the grades.4 in total, Brooke got 3. And flashed the zone on the other one. So really, only half of one boulder was too hard.
Maybe Graeme can correct me on that at some point.
Pretty big news for comps that Veddriq Leonardo has done 4.98 seconds in speed qualification
Anyone understand what’s happening in Seoul? No final for the Women, just a semi that will count as a final?
Erin McNeice appears to have qualified for the semi/final/whatever. First time she’s got this far?
Can someone tell the commentator on Youtube that Flavy Cohout's first name is not pronounced "Flabby"
First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.
First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.
We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).
I'm sure the data can be found elsewhere, but I cannot be bothered to search again.
First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.
We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).
Good question. Toby's third podium with this 1st to go with his previous 3rd places in bouldering and lead. Permission to start frothing for Paris Sir?First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.
We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).
In recent times, has anyone men other than Max podiumed?
First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.
We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).
First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.
We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).
First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.
We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).
In case you’re keeping records it’s Mark Croxall.
2. Germany has no national team training centre or anything like this, and must drive to France or Austria to train. (The French complains that they only have two centers, and those not on the A or B team don't have everyday access...)
I was struck by this too. Seems weird given that the german walls I have been to seem pretty amazing from a general punters perspective (large, loads of shiny holds, big bouldering areas, lead walls with hard routes etc.) You'd have thought they could carve out enough space somewhere in there for some comp style boulders and a spray wall.
Team GB used to train in Unit E at the Works, do they still go there?Team GB is the name of the team of all participating sports which goes to the Olympics. GB Climbing have a contract to use Unit E as a dedicated training facility during weekday hours. The situation in Japan is interesting given their obvious success. They have a huge number of bouldering walls, and most of them have comp style holds and setting at a wide range of difficulty levels including the very highest. That gives both progression in the style and plenty of stuff to train on at the top end. I strongly recommend folks watch Toby on the last problem if they haven't already. One of the best bits of comp footage ever shot imho.
I strongly recommend folks watch Toby on the last problem if they haven't already.
Is this series of bouldering comps a bit more intense than usual? having 2 or more on back to back weekend must be knackering if you have gone to finals each time. And intend doing the lead comp.It's hard enough just watching in this heat!
Just seen this:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cs_Td9Ora5S/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
Was that the intended beta? Outrageous!
I was just reading this topic followed by the cordless fan one and it got me wondering. Is there any rule on using fans at IFSC competitions? If not then why doesn't every athlete have a fan with then for in between every attempt?
Today I learned that it is apparently ok to toe- or heelhook the rope below the last draw clipped to stop the swing. I know quite a few routes where this help.
I cannot read their minds so I don't know if it was on purpose.
I'm clearly missing something here, presumably this was during the women's finals route in Villars?
Having watched it I can't see even a hint of anything controversial. Around move 25/26 Janja got her leg caught behind the rope but it didn't look to help her at all, if anything it looked like a hindrance! There were a few times for various competitors where it looked like they were being short-roped, and Brooke had to pull through slack at least twice, but again this seems more a hindrance.
What am I missing?
That would absolutely invalidate a redpoint or an onsight outside.
That would absolutely invalidate a redpoint or an onsight outside.
To be clear, by 'that' I mean the curtailed swing shown on the linked vid. I didn't mean that any and all rope dabs, however minor would invalidate an outdoor ascent. Like Alex says, it's context specific, but if the context was an identical move to that shown in the vid, then it would absolutely invalidate the ascent IMO.That would absolutely invalidate a redpoint or an onsight outside.
Can't comment on whats fair or not in comps (I wouldn't have penalised Ondra for the accidental bolt stand either) but in no way would this invalidate an RP or onsight attempt outside for what its worth. Any entirely accidental benefit derived is more than offset by the hindrance and faff involved disentangling yourself. Crack on I say, shit route setting.
Amazing effort from him, especially considering who beat him.
Amazing effort from him, especially considering who beat him.
A bunch of OAPs?
Amazing effort from him, especially considering who beat him.
A bunch of OAPs?
Really!?
This forum is difficult to love sometimes :wall:
Devil's advocate; I can't see what the problem is. As evidenced by the fact that Jessie Pilz was literally pulled off the wall by the rope, it was a hindrance not a help. The rope is pulling them back and away from the wall, not up or in and looks to me to feel the equivalent of being badly short roped.This isn't any more relevant than hand wring over whether a massive dab invalidates a cutloose problem. It just does. Agonising about whether it helps or was on purpose just muddies the water. Back around, end of.
As to whether it was intentional from any of them; absolute bollocks. They're clearly just trying to do the move, there's not even a hint of an intentional leg move, or a glance at the rope positioning to ensure it was caught. Others who did the move without getting caught either got lucky (e.g. Mia Krampl) or had the rope in front of their leg. Mia made it look like a fairly easy move so I can't imagine Brooke Raboutou wouldn't have done it without the rope being caught; if anything again it looked more hindrance than help to me.
Amazing effort from him, especially considering who beat him.
A bunch of OAPs?
Really!?
This forum is difficult to love sometimes :wall:
It's (obviously) a joke, and basically the same one made by megos ondra and Schubert on their SM. Relax people.
Ondra has a theory why that is so that no one likes…
Okay, what is your simple rule which would have applied here?
The routes haven’t gotten harder over the last ten years and kids these days don’t train enough endurance.
https://youtu.be/lbJta3GRYqI
At 10:32 mark
The routes haven’t gotten harder over the last ten years and kids these days don’t train enough endurance.
https://youtu.be/lbJta3GRYqI
At 10:32 mark
I guess the issue may be that we're already at 99% of what's humanly possible to be onsighted. Seems like onsight and flash grades have barely moved in comparison to the shift in difficulty of redpoint grades over the last ten tearsI agree that this has happened, but it's not obvious to me why onsight shouldn't move up as redpoint does. I just assumed it's a fashion thing (onsight and even flash not being that fashionable nowadays, even if they're the best styles)
Okay, what is your simple rule which would have applied here?Weighting the rope with feet on a cutloose means that is the end of your attempt. It requires judgement, but not complex judgement.
even if they're the best styles
They all onsigted 8c+ which is harder than redpointing 9b by today's standard. But none of them ever did 9b I think?
The routes haven’t gotten harder over the last ten years and kids these days don’t train enough endurance.
https://youtu.be/lbJta3GRYqI
At 10:32 mark
It might be the other way around a bit. The old generation of Usobiaga, Puigblanqué, Becan, Midtbø etc were much better at onsighting than at redpointing.
Okay, what is your simple rule which would have applied here?
Illegal Aid means Controlling or Using any of the following ... with any part of the body ... any Protection Point or the climbing rope
[ What to we think the gap "should" be, for someone good at both onsight and flash and RP? I always assume 2-3 for flash and 3-4 for onsight, but I wonder if it's true?
Thinking about people near the top end who are good at both and have put a reasonable amount of effort into both:
Ondra: 3 for flash, 4 for onsight (9a+, 9a, 9c)
Megos: 3 for flash and onsight (9a, 9b+)
Jacob: 3 for flash, 4 for onsight (9a, 8c+, 9b+)
But are they actually disproportionately good at one or the other?
I'd propose a list (Remus??? :smartass:), who are the climbers that have onsighted at least 15 (or 20??) routes at 8c+ or 8c if there's none. Having criteria of 15 routes, should cover variety of styles / rock, thus better rounded climber.
He doesn't do much onsighting AFAIK, hence I excluded him from the list... (I guess 8c?)
Wouldn't be an easy one to put together unfortunately, I haven't done much work recording onsights below 8c+ (if anyone is psyched just let me know, would be cool to have more info here).
I'd guess Barrows is on the right lines though, I'd be surprised if there were many people who had onsighted any significant volume at 8c. Lest we forget, Ondra is in a class of his own when it comes to lots of hard onsights.
Okay, what is your simple rule which would have applied here?
The simple rule that would have applied here is in The RulesQuoteIllegal Aid means Controlling or Using any of the following ... with any part of the body ... any Protection Point or the climbing rope
Although if I were appealed-against team's lawyer I would definitely try arguing that "Controlling or Using" implies intention. And, as jwi already pointed out, we can't actually know for certain it it was intentional or not - I personally think it's extremely unlikely that it was.
As a consequence of the non-action of the IFSC I resign with immediate effect from my voluntary position in the IFSC Medical Commission.
Hereby I am drawing the same consequence as our MedCom president. We share the opinion that as medical doctors we can no longer accept the non-action of the IFSC concerning the RED-S problems of our athletes.
I have been a #MedCom member since the inauguration of the IFSC in 2009. During that time frame we achieved many goals for the well-being of our athletes. However, the current politics with regards to RED-S cannot be accepted. We have worked for more than 10 years on the topic. We have collected numerous data, have measured BMI/MI at every WorldCup last year and have developed very profound plans how to detect and help athletes with such problems. We have spent many hours in meetings and on the desk establishing a new and better system of monitoring and decision making. As a consequence, we now have the most profound data on this matter of all sport disciplines. We have pointed out the problem and possible solutions to the sports director and board continuously and repeatedly. However, the only acknowledgement we have received has consisted of defamation and discouragement. In short, the IFSC may not be willing at all to undertake further action regarding this important health issue of its athletes and is acitvely delaying and slowing down any decisions that could lead to much needed action.
As medical doctors we cannot accept this any longer.
Sport climbing has a RED-S problem.
Possible solutions to detect, evaluate and help critical athletes were developed through the Medical Commission.
These solutions have been and are being ignored. No further action is taken by the IFSC.
For the wellbeeing of our athletes and the development of this sport, I cannot take any responsibility on this matter and am forced to resign.
Many thanks to my long-time colleagues and friends in the Medical Commission for their work and efforts, especially to our president Dr.Eugen Burtscher.
I hope this step may help the cause and our athletes but I know it won‘t.
Volker Schöffl – climbing doctor
What time does mens final start, says 8.30 but thats UTC+2 whatever that means
Scheduled for 7:30 on discovery+Is that the only place you can watch it live?
Scheduled for 7:30 on discovery+Is that the only place you can watch it live?
What time does mens final start, says 8.30 but thats UTC+2 whatever that means
Scheduled for 7:30 on discovery+
Try.this free VPN service if you don't have one to watch on YouTube https://protonvpn.com/free-vpnGot that but still can’t find where to watch it on YouTube!
Got that but still can’t find where to watch it on YouTube!
Id pay not to have to listen to Matt Groom! I am petty certain that quickdraw didnt clip itself like he said. Looked like she just clipped it out of order.
Careful what you wish for, he's much, much better than the idiot they had doing the Olympics commentary.
How many people have won gold in lead and boulder in same season.
Janja
Ondra
?
Jain Kim, in both 2007 + 2011.
A not-massively-thorough manual trawl yielded that, plus the others mentioned. There may be a couple more, but it's a fairly elite group regardless!
Unless there is an error here: https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coupe_du_monde_d%27escalade_de_2007
Kim Jain did not take gold in lead or boulder in 2007
What do you think about the scoring for the women? ... absolutely bonkers imo.
For some more farce, if this from a comment on 8a is right then Chaehyun shouldn't have been called off at all
During their attempt [...] competitors [...] must clip the Protection Points in sequence, provided that [...] the competitor may un-clip and re-clip the last clipped Protection Point at any time
During their attempt [...] competitors [...] must clip the Protection Points in sequence
QuoteDuring their attempt [...] competitors [...] must clip the Protection Points in sequence, provided that [...] the competitor may un-clip and re-clip the last clipped Protection Point at any time
Isn't the pertinent point here that she did not clip them in sequence? Any clause after that is negated is the premise of the initial statement is not met?
I am with Chris here - I don't think you can ignore the second part. The use of "provided that" if very weird though, maybe lawyers like it?No, the "provided that" is still part of the rule, you have to read it in its entirety, surely.QuoteDuring their attempt [...] competitors [...] must clip the Protection Points in sequence, provided that [...] the competitor may un-clip and re-clip the last clipped Protection Point at any timeIsn't the pertinent point here that she did not clip them in sequence? Any clause after that is negated is the premise of the initial statement is not met?
fixing a back-clip?What's this is in reference to?
although I'm not sure they really give much of a shit about back-clips.
from the pdf:Ah, maybe that does it... weird to have that bit about being able to unclip the preceding draw in then though, to my mind at least. Shitty rule in that case, with no justification that I can think of. I can't imagine any climber thinking that she should have been stopped. Stuff like this just makes comp climbing so much more lame than it needs to be.
Legitimate Position means, for the purposes of Lead competitions, that a competitor in the
course of their attempt on a route:
a) has not used any Illegal Aid;
b) has clipped each preceding Protection Point in sequence; and
I can't see why you would have "the competitor may un-clip and re-clip the last clipped Protection Point at any time" in that rule for any reason other than to ensure that doing what she did was within the rules. .....
Careful what you wish for, he's much, much better than the idiot they had doing the Olympics commentary.
Get Mike langley in
fixing a back-clip?What's this is in reference to?
although I'm not sure they really give much of a shit about back-clips.from the pdf:Ah, maybe that does it... weird to have that bit about being able to unclip the preceding draw in then though, to my mind at least. Shitty rule in that case, with no justification that I can think of. I can't imagine any climber thinking that she should have been stopped. Stuff like this just makes comp climbing so much more lame than it needs to be.
Legitimate Position means, for the purposes of Lead competitions, that a competitor in the
course of their attempt on a route:
a) has not used any Illegal Aid;
b) has clipped each preceding Protection Point in sequence; and
Who was the last Brit to win a lead world Cup?
Having not really followed it Vickers is the first name that jumps to mind but he may not have. I can picture another bloke but can't remember is name, a bit later. Possibly naughties.
7/8 male finalists in Briancon are Japanese :o surely that's some sort of record?
7/8 male finalists in Briancon are Japanese :o surely that's some sort of record?
They have always been short. Like gymnasts. When strength to weigh ratio is important, male athletes are short and female are prepubescent. (There are other factors in climbing, of course).
Quick question for the now absent GraemeA:
Bolt covers - these are placed to avoid any contentious issues with climbers brushing bolts with their feet or even standing on them. Is it allowed to accidentally brush the bolt covers?? Or what about deliberately?? If so, would it be allowed to scum a toe underneath the bolt cover where presumably there is more grip due to the bolt itself?
All of the athlete history is recorded here:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/athletes
along with their qualifications & placements & their height
Kinda depends on your "taller than" vs "taller than or equal to" statement, but Jesse Grupper was the first person that came to mind, and turns out he's 180cm. Not thought of others yet though
Jesse Gruper has won a single world cup competition, but not the world cup. But when I say taller that I mean > 180 cm. Jorg Verhoeven is the tallest winner of the entire world cup season, except Ondra, and he is exactly 180 cm tall.Correct, I was more just replying to comments above about "podiums" and "winners". But to your message about the top climbers in comp history, I'd agree that Jesse wouldn't be anywhere near that yet.
They have always been short. Like gymnasts. When strength to weigh ratio is important, male athletes are short and female are prepubescent. (There are other factors in climbing, of course).
Although I don't have any hard data to support it it definitely feels like the average height of male podiums in both boulder and lead is decreasing over time. It's pretty rare to see a person over 5'10 in boulder or lead finals these days compared to 5 years ago. Perhaps the more dynamic and powerful new school style suits smaller climbers better.
Presumably, if it was just a matter of strength-to-weight ratio, there would be a similar trend for outdoor climbing. Does anyone know if there is?
Who was the last Brit to win a lead world Cup?
Having not really followed it Vickers is the first name that jumps to mind but he may not have. I can picture another bloke but can't remember is name, a bit later. Possibly naughties.
Ian Vickers never won a World Cup. Simon Nadin 1990 is the last.
I'd be inclined to bet that they won't be broadcast, just like the world cups haven't been. Which is a shame, given there's not exactly a limit to streams they can have online. I guess it's just a money saver for camera operators, producer, commentator, etc.?
I would have liked to watch them, but as long as they have good coverage semis + finals of lead + boulder + combined, then that's decent. So far this year's coverage has been ok, certainly better than some we've seen!
Fingers crossed Toby can seal it at this first opportunity. Given it's a whole year til Paris, qualifiers here might be some of the first athletes to get selected, for any sport?
How does the Olympic selection work?
Will it just be for the combined lead and Boulder or do the individual lead/boulder competitions count towards it too?
Toby hanging in there, Max out of the picture.
The Japanese looking strong as usual....
Toby hanging in there, Max out of the picture.
The Japanese looking strong as usual....
How does the Olympic selection work?
Will it just be for the combined lead and Boulder or do the individual lead/boulder competitions count towards it too?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/paris_2024_olympic_games_sport_climbing_qualification_and_scoring_explainer-15300 good explainer on the other channel, top 3 from the combined qualify, then there's various other qualification events
How are you guys watching it? I can't find a YouTube stream even with a VPN....You can't watch it but you can follow the results live on IFSC.results.info
Cheers. Any idea if a lot of athletes be doing all 3 (Boulder, Lead, Combined)?
Hannah Meul out as well, surprising considering based on last season's form I'd have thought this year it would be three way competition between her, Natalia and Janja.
Her bouldering season has been disappointing as well.Hannah Meul out as well, surprising considering based on last season's form I'd have thought this year it would be three way competition between her, Natalia and Janja.
You're aware that this was the lead qualification, right?
Hannah Meul out as well, surprising considering based on last season's form I'd have thought this year it would be three way competition between her, Natalia and Janja.
You're aware that this was the lead qualification, right?
It's because they're doing it in 2 groups, so they are both currently highest on their group's route 2.
As it seems different to the UKC explanation, can anyone explain what the numbers on the lead qualification results mean?
https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/7701
Currently it looks like joint first reached a lower point than joint 3rd, but their decimal score is lower…
It's because they're doing it in 2 groups, so they are both currently highest on their group's route 2.
Any idea why they do the square root? The rankings would be unchanged if they did just the product, and the numbers are fairly meaningless anyway so seems like an unnecessary extra step?As it seems different to the UKC explanation, can anyone explain what the numbers on the lead qualification results mean?
https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/7701
Currently it looks like joint first reached a lower point than joint 3rd, but their decimal score is lower…
The decimal score is the square root of the product of your ranking (within each group).
It's because they're doing it in 2 groups, so they are both currently highest on their group's route 2.
Ah that'd explain it, cheersAny idea why they do the square root? The rankings would be unchanged if they did just the product, and the numbers are fairly meaningless anyway so seems like an unnecessary extra step?As it seems different to the UKC explanation, can anyone explain what the numbers on the lead qualification results mean?
https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/7701
Currently it looks like joint first reached a lower point than joint 3rd, but their decimal score is lower…
The decimal score is the square root of the product of your ranking (within each group).
Glad to see Toby seal an inevitable combined spot, not sure any other Brits will have snuck in?
Shauna Coxsey is a very good pundit, btw.
I thought the final problem was utter nonsense and I am happy it didn't much affect the outcome. Made for an ok spectacle at least. The run across the boxes was also nonsense, and boring to look at as well. (My parents who have never seen a bouldering comp also lost all interest looking at climbers looking stupid about then).
I don't know if I have ever seen a final where finger strength has counted for so little.
the subscription
Thoughts on the see-through no-tex holds? I don't really understand why having slightly damp hands would help. Certainly made for an entertaining final problem, especially when Mawem just stuck the move to the zone.Is it because the no-tex holds can't bite into the skin at all -so the only way to stick on is by a sort of sucker effect? At work, we've got labels for glass fish tanks that are just very smooth flexible plastic with no glue. They stick solidly even to damp glass. I guess the aim is to become a human climber version of those tank labels.
I guess it’s all down to preference but Shauna talks way too much for my taste. Feels like she makes a good observation and then waffles on about it for a while, then repeats it all for the next climber. She’s clearly a lot more comfortable than the other co-commentators they get on though
Anyone know if Molly and Toby made finals?
Thoughts on the see-through no-tex holds? I don't really understand why having slightly damp hands would help. Certainly made for an entertaining final problem, especially when Mawem just stuck the move to the zone.Is it because the no-tex holds can't bite into the skin at all -so the only way to stick on is by a sort of sucker effect? At work, we've got labels for glass fish tanks that are just very smooth flexible plastic with no glue. They stick solidly even to damp glass. I guess the aim is to become a human climber version of those tank labels.
Anyone know if Molly and Toby made finals?
Spoiler below…NSFW :
Semis were yesterday. Women's finals tomorrow, men's finals on Saturday.
Edit: I watched the semis yesterday. Enjoyed the new scoring format (did not enjoy the commentary team explaining it a million times and saying how complicated it is, it isn't) but seems to put a lot of pressure on the setters to create two balanced rounds.
How many go through to the final in the combined?
Semis were yesterday. Women's finals tomorrow, men's finals on Saturday.
Edit: I watched the semis yesterday. Enjoyed the new scoring format (did not enjoy the commentary team explaining it a million times and saying how complicated it is, it isn't) but seems to put a lot of pressure on the setters to create two balanced rounds.
They are well worth watching if you get time, especially the lead.
Looks like there was a stopper move in the women's lead, so they all get the same points?
Looks like there was a stopper move in the women's lead, so they all get the same points?
Yeah, seemed like a very hard move going right hand to an absolutely tiny rail with the right hand, off a left sloper with poor feet, to get onto the headwall.
Thought the scoring system and combined format was great, made for some really interesting results. Also seems to give a nicely even weighting to both elements.NSFW :
Agreed, the scoring system was good and well balanced. Much better to base it on progress on the routes rather than relative placing to other competitors, so it takes account of performances being really close, or miles apart, rather than just 1st place and 2nd place (then multiplication bullshit).
A heads up for the Para finals... in the 6 hour running time the actual climbing starts at about 30 minutes in and finishes around the 4 hour mark. The climbing is on four routes which range from F6c to F8a+
https://www.youtube.com/live/RwQbZNGSUZA?feature=share
Yeah looked different class didn't he
Staja had some interesting comments on her IG about home advantage, are the setters also setting for the French team training?
She said: "second time losing the Olympic ticket eith (sic) the second place on the continental quail from the home country competitor. That is really fu**ing bitter you know".Thats not the post I was referring to. That one is still up.
I don't think that is necessarily having a go at home route setting. She's understandably pissed-off at coming second but Oriane Bertone looked the most likely throughout and was first by a good margin.]
She's understandably pissed-off at coming second but Oriane Bertone looked the most likely throughout and was first by a good margin.
Yeah looked different class didn't he
Yeah looked different class didn't he
He still looked to be struggling on the steepest bit, which has happened before. Definitely a weakness for him. Once he gets onto a headwall though he's in a different league! Brilliant to have a Brit into the Olympics again.
The men's lead route setters must have been high-fiving when Toby topped-out.Glad the last move wasn't the decider, I hate when lead routes are split like that. In the end, it just made for a nice showy way to start the celebrations.
Grimper magazine is giving high praise to Toby Roberts https://www.grimper.com/news-tqo-laval-2023-toby-robert-bien-trop-fortThe translation of that is pure gold! Caesar and Brutus, you wouldn't get that in a dry UKC newsflash! Arthur Delicque must be the Gallic equivalent to Grimer...
Is there any other sport that is so influenced by route/course setting? [...]
One problem was topped by everyone. Leaving 3 problems to select from.
But the analogy to alpine skiing also sprung to my mind when I saw Stasas story. Especially in downhill and super g most top athletes come from a small selection of national teams that have the size and funds to organize trainings in racing conditions. Certainly in bouldering the effort for training under comp conditions is not likewise, but still you require top setters that permanently provide problems with the newest selection of holds for not being disadvantaged. And I imagine as the sport matures (and hence the difference between athletes becomes smaller), this may be even more important.