Wmns lead semis on iPlayer now 💪
Agree on the mens bouldering, however thought the womens lead final route was excellent, impressive to watch with exciting looking climbing but also good separation and despite the fairly obvious outcome (does that count as a spoiler?) got to see everyone try hard. Last fall could have been nasty though.The interview with the winner
Womens finals live on IPlayer, not easy but seem much better set than mens, some exciting stuff.
Spoiler:NSFW :
Thanks Wil.
Interesting, so if qualification for the combined is just based on sum of ranking points, how is the event itself going to be scored? Multiplication as inTokyo? Addition as in qualification? Or is the weird scoring system they were using in the boulder rounds going to come into it somehow?
Lead - 100 points divided by number of holds so... say there are 50 holds it is 2 points per hold as you go.
Thought all the lead rounds were excellent, impressive wall and setting gave some great looking moves without it feeling too gimmicky.
Women's boulder finals good too
Spoilers:NSFW :
Thanks both. So as I understand it attempts make no difference for bonuses? (That's how it was showing on screen at the weekend) Could be controversial if there's a hard set of problems? (8 bonuses beats a slow top)
second bonus on every problem is surely a better performance than topping 1 plus no other bonuses?
The score awarded to a competitor will be the relevant Base Score decremented by 0.1 for
each attempt made prior to that on which the relevant scoring hold was Controlled.
A1 z1 Z1 T1 25.0
A1 z1 Z1 T0 6.0
A1 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z1 Z1 T4 24.7
A2 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z0 Z0 T4 24.7
A4 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z2 Z0 T0 2.9
A4 z2 Z2 T0 5.9
From the rules:Thanks Wil! That makes sense, just the in screen scoring wrong then. Hopefully that's sorted out for today!QuoteThe score awarded to a competitor will be the relevant Base Score decremented by 0.1 for
each attempt made prior to that on which the relevant scoring hold was Controlled.
Which implies that you lose 0.1 for every unsuccessful attempt prior to your highpoint, so it would count for zones too. This wasn't happening for the live scores shown last weekend.
Example scores from the IFSC:QuoteA1 z1 Z1 T1 25.0
A1 z1 Z1 T0 6.0
A1 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z1 Z1 T4 24.7
A2 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z0 Z0 T4 24.7
A4 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z2 Z0 T0 2.9
A4 z2 Z2 T0 5.9
The last 15 moves are worth 5 points each, the 10 before that are 2 points each, then 1 point each next 5, and nothing before that. So that extra top in bouldering is only 3 - 5 moves higher up the lead route, depending on Zones and attempts.
A climber flashing several problems and falling one move lower on the lead should beat another who took multiple attempts to do those boulders IMO.
ah man that final for the men's was so cool! Big up to the setters...delivered the whole way through in this round.
A climber flashing several problems and falling one move lower on the lead should beat another who took multiple attempts to do those boulders IMO.