UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: tomtom on April 09, 2021, 10:42:46 am
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I’ve been searching long and hard for the perfect bouldering jacket for UK climes and where I go - and always end up disappointed....
Ideally - I want something:
warm (for sat on my arse in between efforts)
Windproof (obvs)
Light (for longer walk ins - that doesn’t weigh a tonne)
Waterproof (not full on 5 hours under a shower rating - but enough so I can scuttle back to the car in 30 min without getting soaked) - more than water - resistant and hopefully with taped seams.
Moderately durable (ie won’t rip with the slightest scuff against some brown scrittly rocks)
Costs less than £150. Hopefully much less.
I know I want the moon on a stick etc...
Would seem to suit a synthetic fill with a fairly waterproof outer - but there seems to be nothing out there that fits the bill. Can’t be arsed with down which is great for sitting on your arse when it’s dry - but gets too sweaty walking in abs obvs shite if it rains. Happy with insulated jackets I’ve had/got apart from the waterproof stuff. I know - could take a waterproof shell as well - but why take two jackets etc...
There you go Rab and Alpkit - get on it. :D
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A bit over budget but this fits your spec
https://www.e-outdoor.co.uk/p/mountain_equipment_mens_citadel_jacket/?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=directory&utm_content=GBR¤cy=GBP&country=GBR&SelectedBundle=196152&SelectedItem=820381&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz9u86vDw7wIVpe_tCh2TXQmbEAQYASABEgIDqfD_BwE
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The sort of thing you’re after always ends up costing more, as you are essentially buying two jackets stitched together!
I really think your best option (even though you’ve said no) is a second hand oversized shell, to fit over whatever insulated jackets you already have and are happy with. Any sign of rain and just sling that in your pad too, negligible weight addition compared to all the other bouldering paraphernalia 😄
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There you go Rab and Alpkit - get on it. :D
I'm sure they make something just not in your budget, try Columbia or Regatta.
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https://images.app.goo.gl/Xta3ZYV779kDVT476 (https://images.app.goo.gl/Xta3ZYV779kDVT476)
Obviously.
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So you want a slimline yet extremely warm (equivalent to 800 fill down) jacket that is well made to ensure durability, with high quality taped seams for waterproofing, that costs less than £150?! :-\
I hope you find one, let me know if you do! I would think you'd struggle to get a really good quality synthetic/down or waterproof on their own for that money brand new. I have bought my last two down jackets second hand and still paid approx £100 I think.
This looks half decent but nothing on the warmth of a proper down/synthetic I'd have thought. https://moonclimbing.com/meteor-jacket.html
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I’ve been searching long and hard for the perfect bouldering jacket for UK climes and where I go - and always end up disappointed....
Ideally - I want something:
warm (for sat on my arse in between efforts)
Windproof (obvs)
Light (for longer walk ins - that doesn’t weigh a tonne)
Waterproof (not full on 5 hours under a shower rating - but enough so I can scuttle back to the car in 30 min without getting soaked) - more than water - resistant and hopefully with taped seams.
Moderately durable (ie won’t rip with the slightest scuff against some brown scrittly rocks)
Costs less than £150. Hopefully much less.
I know I want the moon on a stick etc...
Would seem to suit a synthetic fill with a fairly waterproof outer - but there seems to be nothing out there that fits the bill. Can’t be arsed with down which is great for sitting on your arse when it’s dry - but gets too sweaty walking in abs obvs shite if it rains. Happy with insulated jackets I’ve had/got apart from the waterproof stuff. I know - could take a waterproof shell as well - but why take two jackets etc...
There you go Rab and Alpkit - get on it. :D
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/buffalo-mountain-shirt?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=100624067 (https://www.wiggle.co.uk/buffalo-mountain-shirt?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=100624067)
There is a hood, sold separately that bumps it up to a serious bit of winter kit.
There’s also a lighter 3 season version (Active 6 shirt? iirc).
Still the Canine’s gonads and bomb proof, even if it is 40 (?) years old. Which is about how long one will last you. This is “family heirloom” stuff, your grandkids will inherit it from you.
Edit:
Worth the balance between your budget. Just chop it up over your expected life time and look at as a yearly rate...
Also, and this might sound a bit odd.
I got a Dryrobe for my birthday, back in Dec. I thought they were a bit if a gimmick, but they seriously change the game for swimming in the winter etc and just don’t get wet. You can pull it on without drying yourself at all and you dry and it stays dry. It just doesn’t absorb water.
Then a cousin who passed out of CTCRM Lympstone a couple years ago, tells me the long sleeve cammo version has become a hit as an Ally bit of kit amongst their snipers (a bit “noisy” apparently, but like a wearable sleeping bag that doesn’t get soggy. They stick sniper tape (very sticky, cloth, tape) over the normal rub areas to quiet it).
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I got a patagucci DAS parker for some expedition/alps back in the day. Got it on deals and used it for fieldwork (carefully) and winter bouldering, as well as winter climbing. Fits the bill, but only if you get it on deals. Saw one for 180 when i googled it but it is probably for midgets. It got a bit sad when sprinkled with car battery acid (as did I), but some home made repairs with sail repair tape have almost restored it. Ive had it 7ish years, and only warmer thing I have is a mahoosive down jacket from MEC in canada (best 100 dollars I ever spent), which is boss when its mega cold sessions (had naps in the snow whilst ice climbing in it). Not great if it rains though!
Probably not what you want to hear!
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Did you check Alpkit before posting?
https://alpkit.com/products/0hiro-mens-primaloft-jacket
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Depends how ‘warm’ TT is after but I have an ME Fitzroy (similar spec as above) and I switch to down mid-winter as the Fitzroy ain’t warm enough for sitting around in.
Also, down is too expensive for his spec but unless you’re talking Scottish Winter the outer shells on new down jackets keep them much drier than down jackets of yesteryear. ME don’t mess about putting waterproofing treatments on their down as they don’t need to.
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https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/men-s-downhill-ski-jacket-900-warm/_/R-p-157831
This could be a possibility with a bit of modification...
It should be warm, windproof, it is waterproof and has taped seams, it should be more durable than a climbing jacket as it has to deal with the bumps that come with skiing and carrying skis.
I couldn't find a weight however i suspect it won't be the most lightweight. You could potentially save weight though by cutting out the cuffs and snow skirt. Suspect this would be easy to do without making the jacket look too much of a mess and then could meet your requirements.
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If all you are looking for is something to throw on and walk back to the car if you are going to get soaked, you could always just get a lightweight running jacket that packs down to a small size to slip on, and a separate warm jacket.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/kiprun-light-showerproof-men-s-running-jacket/_/R-p-188671
I've got one of these and it packs down to the size of a mug. Not particularly breathable, but has taped seams and vents.
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My current down is a Berghaus synthetic offering (not the Leo Ulvetanna Hybrid but similar). I bought it with some vouchers from a UKC competition and thought I'd need to get something warmer for winter. However, I've not needed to. It packs down really well and initially did well with light showers (less so now but it has been heavily abused).
Really good layering seems to work for me:
Moon (Merino I think?) baselayer that I bought out of the CragX bargain bins for less than 2FAs. I'm not sure if these were actually made or samples at the time. I have several but one in particular is much better than the rest!
Optional Berghaus technical t-shirt that was a gift from Three Nine when he caught two back at a CWIF.
Arc'teryx Phase - I think these are an amazing layer.
Gilet - Old Marmot thing that's a bit dated but functions well. I regret giving back my CragX shop version.
Berghaus jacket (as described above).
Everywhere I climb (home and abroad, bouldering, sport and trad) is some combination of the above.
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Love the DAS parka but patagucci stiff for my top half fits really badly. Always baggy baggy baggy...
Alpkit looked ok.
RAB do a photon or something that looks alright https://www.ellis-brigham.com/rab-photon-pro-men-s-jacket-213379?FT20Feed=00002763&FT20Prod=213379901SML&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp213379901SML&sc_intid=213379901SML&gclid=CjwKCAjw9r-DBhBxEiwA9qYUpZc_E_GTH8PnGHFaf9vWZax3qttCiqs05zLPIaTuff6DRgZhyCQ59hoCZcIQAvD_BwE
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https://www.crux.uk.com/product/plasma-jacket
... if you can find one at 75% off full retail price
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Hi 2T
I recently got the black diamond belay parka looking for a jacket good for belaying sport climbs in Scotland in Spring/ Autumn and for bouldering. It does not tick all that you are looking for but I am really impressed with it. Very warm (warmest jacket I have ever owned), slightly tougher shell than standard down. Not water proof obviously but better in showers etc than down. I think is very reasonably priced compared to equivalents from patagonia or phd which I was looking at (think I paid just under £200). Sized pretty big to go over other layers so I downsized (im 6ft 3 and 77kg and medium fits well).
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Love the DAS parka but patagucci stiff for my top half fits really badly. Always baggy baggy baggy...
Alpkit looked ok.
RAB do a photon or something that looks alright
I think photon and similar would fail you in both durability of the outer and your waterproofness requirements. A lot of the winter and ice climbing stuff have very thin outers for weight saving.
What’s wrong with a baggy jacket for bouldering? More air trapped = more warmth. Think my ME Fitzroy (second recommendation for this) is XL 😄
Another thread entirely but worth bearing in mind the conditions under which garments might have been made if they are suspiciously cheap. Obvs not an issue with Alpkit and the like but not sure about the record of other cheap brands.
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Love the DAS parka but patagucci stiff for my top half fits really badly. Always baggy baggy baggy...
I find this in quite a bit of American stuff. European XL usually means taller, America it usually means "Larger".
Shame the LT (Large Tall) size that is fairly common in wetsuit sizing hasn't made it into other clothes.
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I have one of these:
https://www.mountainwarehouse.com/correspondent-mens-down-padded-3-in-1-jacket-p20797.aspx/black/
It's great, love the flexibility of it, frequently wear just the down part and suspect when it warms up I'll use just the waterproof outer. Fits really well, solid waterproofing. Not as warm as a proper dedicated down jacket but does a great job on milder marginal days where you're never sure if you're going to get soaked or not.
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What’s wrong with a baggy jacket for bouldering? More air trapped = more warmth. Think my ME Fitzroy (second recommendation for this) is XL 😄
Baggy is also bad for heat IIRC... you want a small layer of air trapped to be the insulation - not a big volume of air swilling around between base layers and coat... In bed is your duvet/blanket snugglier when its closer to you than with a big air gap around?
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Without wishing to get too thick red socks and breeches; I also wanted a Buffalo Mountain Shirt and bought one last year and think it ticks pretty much all the boxes you’re after., even if it only scrapes into budget by 5p.
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Without wishing to get too thick red socks and breeches; I also wanted a Buffalo Mounrain Shirt and bought one last year and think it ticks pretty much all the boxes you’re after., even if it only scrapes into budget by 5p.
I've got a Montane jacket (elastic now gone) thats a bit like buffalo stuff. Pile lining and pertex shell. its great until it gets wet though - and its pretty heavy. Fine for pottering in the garden / playing with the lad in the park - but a bit of a burden on a long walk....
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Proper unicorn stuff is this!
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B2KHTYG/
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I just layer up / strip accordingly, the jacket being mainly just for dryness.
Admittedly I tend to boulder in the middle of nowhere on my own, and can pull off the man in tights look
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I really think your best option (even though you’ve said no) is a second hand oversized shell, to fit over whatever insulated jackets you already have and are happy with. Any sign of rain and just sling that in your pad too, negligible weight addition compared to all the other bouldering paraphernalia 😄
also great for when your pad gets covered in shit and you don't want it touching your good jacket.
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Just get a military issue Poncho to cover the lot. Use it as a tarp too, just keep the outside on the ground.
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I love how these threads always gradually turn into a competition of who can recommend the cheapest, shabbiest option. :lol:
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Just get a military issue Poncho to cover the lot. Use it as a tarp too, just keep the outside on the ground.
;D :guilty:
I carry one. With pre tied bungee loops on the corners, some very light alu pegs and a waterproof sleeping bag outer. In a pouch.
A clipstick or a walking pole, makes for a good “tent pole” too. Weighs around 600g including pouch.
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I too had this dream of the perfect jacket, then ten years back I won a jacket voucher in a photo competition and spunked it all on an Arc'teryx Kappa. I wasn't disappointed, have since bought another on sale from Sportpursuit for £180 i think.
Does all you want, in very cold, still conditions not quite as warm as a duvet but in more typical grit weather is as good or better, but less prone to overheating on walk-ins. Completely windproof and sufficiently shower proof to seal with anything but a prolonged down pour.
Bonus benefit is the shell on the shoulders and arms is completely bombproof, you can slide down a grit chimney or burrow through blackthorn and it just shrugs it off. Plus the fit and hood are really good. Can't fault it.
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overheating on walk-ins
Off topic, but since it's come up a couple of times; why on earth would anyone wear a jacket on a walk in? If I'm carrying a pad or two over any sort of distance I overheat no matter what I'm wearing.
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overheating on walk-ins
Off topic, but since it's come up a couple of times; why on earth would anyone wear a jacket on a walk in? If I'm carrying a pad or two over any sort of distance I overheat no matter what I'm wearing.
Because by the time you have got your self ready to do the walk in you might be freezing due to the temperature and or the wind. You can stop and take it off as you warm up.
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overheating on walk-ins
Off topic, but since it's come up a couple of times; why on earth would anyone wear a jacket on a walk in? If I'm carrying a pad or two over any sort of distance I overheat no matter what I'm wearing.
If you feel the cold as much as me, it takes a lot to overheat - and getting very warm seems to postpone my Raynaud's issues. [that spectacular fall I took off Ben's with you was probably because my fingers had gone a bit glassy and numb - on a day others were in T-shirts, and you needed a fan directed at the rock! Truly, my middle name is "nesh").
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You can't go far wrong with any of the high-end synthetic belay jackets from Patagucci or Arcteryx - the DAS or the one below it in warmth (DAS is big heavy and like wearing an oven). ME/Rab pretty good too, but not quite as good a spec as the most expensive Patta/Arc stuff. Only way you'd get one for £150 though is by befriending someone with a pro deal, otherwise closer to £250-300. I find the patagucci stuff well built and lasts a very long time, good value for money over 10-15 years.
Otherwise, look at what base layer and mid layer you have and improve them instead. Again from patagucci the nano air hoody is toasty and very light. Combined with an existing 'average' outer jacket it makes a warm combo. Stick on a Brynje mesh baselayer and you'll be toasty warm and dry (but look like a weirdo).
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Sometimes you find a real bargain at EBs in Capel.
https://www.ellis-brigham.com/mens-jackets-sale?esp_sort=FSM_price&esp_order=desc
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Update on this. Thanks for all the info.
In the end after much searching around I ended up getting a…
“ Patagonia Stretch Nano Storm Jacket (Winter 18)”
They’ve stopped making them and there were two in the UK a couple of weeks ago - now only one. Took a punt on a Patagonia Small size and it fits really well. Proper taped waterproof outer - and a reasonable amount of synthetic fill, two bottle pockets inside (for boots) and it’s 500g.
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Small? does it come past your elbows?
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Small? does it come past your elbows?
Knuckles…
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The Mountain Equipment Triton is exactly what you're looking for and can be found for under £200 if you look carefully. I appreciate you're sorted now but anyone else looking - it's basically a Lightline with a waterproof shell outer. 845g in a medium size.
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Good shout. Though for everything I was interested in - it had to be at the discounted price - and finding the right size/colour in stock can be hard - but then thrown into the mix are the 'UK' retailers that are clearly based in Belgium/France/Germany and will invoke duty/vat when delivered...
I ordered a DAS parka (half price!!) and then when it all went through realised it was coming from France and ££ extra (and faff) etc... they were very obliging when I emailed to cancel. They mentioned I wasn't the first to do this..
Merde.
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Good shout. Though for everything I was interested in - it had to be at the discounted price - and finding the right size/colour in stock can be hard - but then thrown into the mix are the 'UK' retailers that are clearly based in Belgium/France/Germany and will invoke duty/vat when delivered...
I ordered a DAS parka (half price!!) and then when it all went through realised it was coming from France and ££ extra (and faff) etc... they were very obliging when I emailed to cancel. They mentioned I wasn't the first to do this..
Merde.
I don't usually bring work into the mix because there is literally no incentive but in this context it's probably useful to point out that Alpinetrek/Bergfreunde have an import centre type place in England which does the paperwork and thereby no import taxes etc etc despite buying from Germany. Just FYI ;D
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Good knowledge - though part of the problem is it’s hard to know.
My order was through hardloop - who seemed to be completely France based. They were very good and prompt with cancellation/refund etc…