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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2011, 02:19:11 pm

Title: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2011, 02:19:11 pm
So we can help iron out a few contentious grades for routes in new guide. Please save any comments for other thread on the subject.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 02:26:21 pm
No (soft) option for 7c+? Steve Roberts won't be happy :)
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Paul B on April 14, 2011, 02:28:40 pm
I don't mean to be contentious but there are two polls already for this, not to mention a shed load of comments?

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=2747 (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=2747)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12476 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12476)
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 02:31:52 pm
I don't mean to be contentious but there are two polls already for this, not to mention a shed load of comments?

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=2747 (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=2747)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12476 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12476)

50/50 on Rockfax
and 13/12 in favour of 8a on UKC
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Paul B on April 14, 2011, 02:35:15 pm
But all you're doing here is allowing UKB'ers to have a second vote?
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2011, 02:36:39 pm
But all you're doing here is allowing UKB'ers to have a second vote?

Id just like a fresh, new opinion. With people having climbed other routes and got a better perspective Paul.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: slackline on April 14, 2011, 02:41:14 pm
But all you're doing here is allowing UKB'ers to have a second vote?

Id just like a fresh, new opinion. With people having climbed other routes and got a better perspective Paul.

A worthy goal but an additional poll doesn't really achieve that.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 02:43:36 pm
Can we have AV?
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2011, 02:45:58 pm
Can we have AV?

AV?
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 02:48:16 pm
AV. (http://www.electoral-reform.org.uk/article.php?id=55)
I appreciate I'm not really helping with the poll here :oops:
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2011, 02:49:23 pm
AV. (http://www.electoral-reform.org.uk/article.php?id=55)
I appreciate I'm not really helping with the poll here :oops:

 :spank:
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: cofe on April 14, 2011, 02:50:56 pm
can you vote if you haven't done it?
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: slackline on April 14, 2011, 02:53:02 pm
can you vote if you haven't done it?

Of course you can, its easy to tell what grade a route is just by looking at it...."Looks like 8a to me".  :P
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: cofe on April 14, 2011, 02:58:34 pm
what if you haven't done it, but you've said you have? Or haven't done and said you haven't? Or don't know if you haven't said you have or haven't not done it? Just trying to cover all bases.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: slackline on April 14, 2011, 03:00:29 pm
what if you haven't done it, but you've said you have? Or haven't done and said you haven't? Or don't know if you haven't said you have or haven't not done it? Just trying to cover all bases.

All opinions are valid, even if you've done it but not seen it  :ninja: (but some opinions are more valid than others).
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: cofe on April 14, 2011, 03:07:10 pm
IS THE LOUDEST OPINION THE MOST VALID?
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: slackline on April 14, 2011, 03:12:11 pm
YES
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: GCW on April 14, 2011, 03:13:09 pm
Fuck's sake, just call it 8a and make a note it's tough for the grade.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Probes on April 14, 2011, 03:20:27 pm
What if youve done it but totally lost confidence in what grades are because all the people you climb with think its a different grade and they are all different heights and morphs anyway and use different sequencies and clip longer draws and use different boots to you and your weak on crimps but have strong loins and the first ascentionist did it in a helmet and with a head jam and then your saw a german bloke in a kilt flash it and now your just really confused and outofbreath.  :shrug:
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: slackline on April 14, 2011, 03:26:20 pm
Thats the definitive knowledge required to answer the ultimate question to life the universe and everything.  :blink:
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: robertostallioni on April 14, 2011, 03:27:43 pm
But is life, the universe and everything 42a or 42a+?
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 14, 2011, 03:31:16 pm
As long as you don't use Vogon grades.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: dave on April 14, 2011, 03:33:42 pm
I'm voting for hard 7d+
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: The Aaronator on April 14, 2011, 03:37:25 pm
What if youve done it but totally lost confidence in what grades are because all the people you climb with think its a different grade and they are all different heights and morphs anyway and use different sequencies and clip longer draws and use different boots to you and your weak on crimps but have strong loins and the first ascentionist did it in a helmet and with a head jam and then your saw a german bloke in a kilt flash it and now your just really confused and outofbreath.  :shrug:

 :agree: but it's definitely 8a. You have to look at it in view of similar-ish climbs e.g. The Thumb (8a, harder for the pumped), Cold Steel (8a, similar), They Brush me (8a+ and a lot harder), GBH (8a+, harder), Zoolook (???? :shrug:???).

You can have AF8a+ of course....

IMO
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Ru on April 14, 2011, 03:40:39 pm
I've never even been on it, but I think my position after I'd done it would be to say that it felt like 8a ( :strongbench:) whilst shrugging my shoulders (like this :shrug:) and accepting the 8a+ tick.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Andy F on April 14, 2011, 04:03:58 pm


You can have AF8a+ of course....

IMO

That could make it 7c+. Or 8a. Or 8a+. Or 8b  :???:
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Probes on April 14, 2011, 04:05:01 pm
What if youve done it but totally lost confidence in what grades are because all the people you climb with think its a different grade and they are all different heights and morphs anyway and use different sequencies and clip longer draws and use different boots to you and your weak on crimps but have strong loins and the first ascentionist did it in a helmet and with a head jam and then your saw a german bloke in a kilt flash it and now your just really confused and outofbreath.  :shrug:

 :agree: but it's definitely 8a. You have to look at it in view of similar-ish climbs e.g. The Thumb (8a, harder for the pumped), Cold Steel (8a, similar), They Brush me (8a+ and a lot harder), GBH (8a+, harder), Zoolook (???? :shrug:???).

You can have AF8a+ of course....

IMO

WTF, harder for the pumped? you'll have to explain that  :ras:
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: The Aaronator on April 14, 2011, 04:13:03 pm
WTF, harder for the pumped? you'll have to explain that  :ras:

Its a lot harder if your stamina aint so good, but its just a comparison for the 8a grade. You'd breeze up it, there's only two small holds on it, the rest are huge  :jab:
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 04:15:59 pm


You can have AF8a+ of course....

IMO

That could make it 7c+. Or 8a. Or 8a+. Or 8b  :???:

8b???? Are you on crack?
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Andy F on April 14, 2011, 04:28:02 pm


You can have AF8a+ of course....

IMO

That could make it 7c+. Or 8a. Or 8a+. Or 8b  :???:

8b???? Are you on crack?

Not if you go off the new improved Aaronated grade table...
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 04:39:26 pm
Here's a poll for you. (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Big+Marine+V7)
Then we can get an AF bouldering grade chart as well.
Title: Re: Soft Option Grade Poll
Post by: Andy F on April 14, 2011, 04:44:23 pm
Here's a poll for youHere's a poll for you. (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Big+Marine+V7)
Then we can get an AF bouldering grade chart as well.

That won't work, there's no option for 7B+  :tease:
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