UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: tomtom on October 27, 2014, 10:48:18 am
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The thread for significant climbing achievements by those under 18
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Well done to Jim Pope on Mecca yesterday:
http://youtu.be/KviFxMra6tg (http://youtu.be/KviFxMra6tg)
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Nice one by young Jimmy there.
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Imagine the title: "Pope crushes Mecca". Third WW?
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holy shit the way he climbs that could be so much smoother, which just means he's probably carrying 8c/+ in him he just needs to get on them!
that video was so cool to watch just him using raw power to get him self through it!
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Imagine the title: "Pope crushes Mecca". Third WW?
Papa plays bingo? (what a name for a route by the way0
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Great vid.
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Donnellys 17 year record finally broken
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Sick chalking up of the RH off the next to last crimp! :o
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Strong lad, loved the shout from the belay "Keep going!... got any draws?"
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Thanks! ;)
How do you change your username? I'm getting on now.
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that's a good way to start half-term
:2thumbsup:
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:)
Profile > Account Settings
Yeah I was trying that, doesn't seem to want to play ball...
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Guess this fits here; Just do i(g)t at 15.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/drew-ruana-sends-just-do-it-514c (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/drew-ruana-sends-just-do-it-514c)
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Ahahahah! Just Do It getting repeats by second grade mini wads, and Hubble spitting off all the world's best pros. Where's your fucking god now, Jibé.
:dance1:
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Ahahahah! Just Do It getting repeats by second grade mini wads, and Hubble spitting off all the world's best pros. Where's your fucking god now, Jibé.
:dance1:
:D
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10-year old Josh Ibbotson has done an F8a.
https://www.facebook.com/borealuk (https://www.facebook.com/borealuk)
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Amazing. Word is he's not too shoddy on the grit boulders either. To be honest I'm hoping for a bit longer than that before Jacob starts burning me off!
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Yeah to think I got into climbing at age 11 and used to consider that young! It almost seems weird now that there were so few climbing kids 20-30 years ago.
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I sadly didn't discover climbing till the ripe old ago of 18, I'm envious of all those years in my youth that are lets face it , are wasted not climbing :'(
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I sadly didn't discover climbing till the ripe old ago of 18, I'm envious of all those years in my youth that are lets face it , are wasted not climbing :'(
I didnt start until I was 22... Which on reflection was probably a good thing - I think I'd have got fed up with it if I'd done it as a yoof...
That said, my later in life climbing career (cough cough) had its seeds firmly sowed back in the late 70's... On wet walking hols in N.Wales I remember nursing a pint mug of hot chocolate in Petes looking over in awe/bewilderment at a large table of climbers talking away in the corner... something about their enthusiasm/manner/scruffiness/didntgiveashitness about them inspired me in later life...
And a plate of cheesy chips of course :)
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I didnt start until I was 22...
(http://www.v12outdoor.com/shopimages/products/normal/Snap-Wrap-Crashpad.jpg)
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"deus"?
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They're getting younger and younger. Hope he sticks with it, will be a proper monster when he's older if he does. I had all the opportunity to get into it at a young age with my dad being a climber but annoyingly I didn't get the bug until I was 16/17. Gutted I missed those important early years of tendon strengthening.
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I started when I was 9, but I spent the first six years climbing mountain VDiffs in big boots. Occasionally our paths would cross a team climbing HVS or E1, and my Dad would shake his head in disbelief - 'lunatics!'
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I started when I was 9, but I spent the first six years climbing mountain VDiffs in big boots. Occasionally our paths would cross a team climbing HVS or E1, and my Dad would shake his head in disbelief - 'lunatics!'
Sameish, but a year earlier.
But it was all big boots (Millets cheapest leather tanks) and Army surplus, until my late teens.
Loads of fingertip doorframe pull ups, mind and then a baptism of fire on routes like Eroica and Darkenbad.
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Gutted I missed those important early years of tendon strengthening injuring.
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"deus"?
Yes, he thinks he's a god.
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Occasionally our paths would cross a team climbing HVS or E1, and my Dad would shake his head in disbelief - 'lunatics!'
That's pretty much my attitude too... ;)
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I started when I was 9, but I spent the first six years climbing mountain VDiffs in big boots. Occasionally our paths would cross a team climbing HVS or E1, and my Dad would shake his head in disbelief - 'lunatics!'
I used to look at the pictures in the guidebooks whilst sat in bed in Northampton and think, "wow, if I ever climb Great North Road I'll be a climbing god" (picture in the old blue Froggatt guide). Never even considered the extremes as viable, VS was the aspiration!
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After a couple of introductory V Diffs the next grade that I first experienced as a second rather than a leader was E3. Hardly conducive to fast progress.
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And huge respect to Josh of course! Amazing.
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Impressive stuff! Just read that Archie Ball who turned thirteen in January, just headpointed 'My Halo' E7 on the slate. Heres the link to the full article http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2015/04/my-halo-e7-6b-headpoint-by-13-year-old/
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Thir-fucking-teen.
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Couple more 8as for Josh Ibbertson on his Easter holidays..
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Angie Scarth-Johnson done welcome to tijuana 8c....she's 10...says she only trains 4 hours a week on 8a.shit but if you read what the mum says about the home bouldering wall and her "going on it when ever she's bored" I'm calling bullshit on the 4 hours. Anyway.... Effort yoof! !
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8c at 10? :jaw:
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I'm waiting for the first delivery on Era Vella
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Era Vella was climbed by Kai Lightner, 15 a few weeks ago. I think thats the youngest accent?
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What with all this lauding over Moon's ascent of Rainshadow, probably worth pointing out that Josh Ibbertson did Raindogs recently! :strongbench:
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Jim Pope has climbed Helvitia at Shipwreck Cove
https://twitter.com/jimpopeonarope/status/612679603472175104/photo/1
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*helvetia*
/pedantry.
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I thought Dave Pickford had done the 2nd ascent. Could be wrong though. Also heard some holds have changed and might be 8b+ now?
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2 ways to do it by the sounds of it - one direct and the other with a little loop. No idea what Jim did.
http://jordanbuysclimbing.tumblr.com/post/98717213754/two-trips-down-to-the-beautiful-south-saw-a-mix-of
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UKC says holds have broken, so now 8b+
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=239406
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I did it the direct way the same way Ben did the first ascent, a hold was removed leaving a bigger hold which made the crux easier but was soon filled back in and isnt there anymore. It probably is more like 8b+ than 8c but I havnt done enough of either grade to know what it is. Its a great route regardless of the grade.
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Good effort. If a hold got bigger on one of my routes I'd fill it in too.
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I did it the direct way the same way Ben did the first ascent, a hold was removed leaving a bigger hold which made the crux easier but was soon filled back in and isnt there anymore. It probably is more like 8b+ than 8c but I havnt done enough of either grade to know what it is. Its a great route regardless of the grade.
Nice work Jim, keep it up
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http://vimeo.com/131591687
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Nice work Jim, keep it up
Said Captain Kirk's girlfriend.
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Nice work Jim, keep it up
Said Captain Kirk's girlfriend.
Chortle
"Theres Life in it Jim..."
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William Bosi climbed transform today :jaw: We should see a lot more from him as he's still at Malham for another week!
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Good work Will. Watch your backs Malham wads. He's strong AND fit! (Is that allowed in this country??)
Edit: And incidentally is the one who took the PB record off Stu on the Lattice Board.
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It's only allowed if you're a yoof, the true measure is what they do when they've been introduced to beer, sex, and life. If they're still strong and fit then they need to be locked up for being boring. You just can't win
Obviously a bloody good effort!!!
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:strongbench:, still one of the less travelled at that grade too, nice work. 4th ascent?
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Whats a lattice board?
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Ahh ots that tom randalls board thing. What does the test involve exactly?
edit: nvm i looked it up myself. The stu's blog has a decent post on it.
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Since the bouldering comp on Saturday Jim Pope is now both the Youth 'A' Lead AND Bouldering Champion.
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James Squire (beastly squirrel on here) is in magic and did his first 8B, Riders On The Storm today.
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He's with Ed and Ellis isn't he?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Think so
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Great looking line that one, looking forward to the footage!
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James Squire (beastly squirrel on here) is in magic and did his first 8B, Riders On The Storm today.
Interestingly there existed no videos of this problem, that I could find anyway.
Good on him for trying something that has not been done and filmed a million times to garner beta from?
This appeared on my feed today however. Funny timing.
https://vimeo.com/133331264
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When 8B looks like 6B :ohmy:
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A&
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I hope he brushed all that chalk off afterwards.
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Good looking moves!
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And the Squirrel sends Riverbed as an after breakfast warm-up, this morning.
I hope he's on that >=8B list, because that's at least 2 this week.
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And the Hazelnut muncher lands "One summer in Paradise" to the list.
Are we allowed to applaud 8B, or do we have to wait for the + to added?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Strong! and thankfully his enormous ego will ensure there's video proof of everything :popcorn:
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And the Hazelnut muncher lands "One summer in Paradise" to the list.
Are we allowed to applaud 8B, or do we have to wait for the + to added?
I think we're allowed when he does 2 in a day:
Dark Sakai this afternoon (though a few seem to have it down as 8A+)
https://vimeo.com/46301315 (https://vimeo.com/46301315)
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Good job. Nice little vid
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Another 8C for William out in Mallorca :clap2: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cYqgRu4FvtI&feature=youtu.be
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And he understands that all you need is a phone to film it
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Hamish Potokar second in European Youth Champs
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And Aidan Roberts first (in a bizarre backwards reporting kind of way)!
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Oh yeah! Different age category though, Hamish was Juniors, Aidan is Youth A,
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And Max Milne was 6th in Youth B.
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Crazy to see James' ticklist out there, but Ellis is also crushing...
Dark Matter Stand *** f8B+ / V14
6/7 days of effort! Had to wake up early for redpoints the rest midday and get back out in the evening; definitely the hardest of worked to get a problem done and it all came together just before I had to leave and get me flight home! Felt a lot like climbing a route so suits me pretty well; will be back for the full line!
Ellis Butler-Barker - Sent x - 14/Jul/15 with Tom Wright
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:worms:
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No doubt, looking strong!
http://youtu.be/OX8bxJi8B0U
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That's almost a QBV already for how clearly it shows the problem. :2thumbsup:
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To be clear. That's James on "One Summer" in the vid.
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Thanks for clearing that up Matt, when I read the title "One Summer in Paradise 8B - Magic Wood - James Squire" I wondered who the climber was, the grade, the area, and also the name of the problem.
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What's this I hear about James Squire in Magic Wood? Something about doing One Summer in Paradise 8B? Shame there's no details as yet.
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With all the excitement I actually forgot to watch the vid, looking strong!!! No wonder a lots been done by him over there. A few chips wouldn't go amiss as a treat for beastly squirrel
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Thanks for clearing that up Matt, when I read the title "One Summer in Paradise 8B - Magic Wood - James Squire" I wondered who the climber was, the grade, the area, and also the name of the problem.
The title doesn't show in Tapatalk and it plays direct in the app unless you deliberately use the "Web view" option (which you probably wouldn't).
So that's less "witty sarcasm" and more "Grumpy git, not understanding", Dense.
Of course, because I did view it on Tapatalk, I didn't know the title appeared in the browser version.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Thanks for clearing that up Matt, when I read the title "One Summer in Paradise 8B - Magic Wood - James Squire" I wondered who the climber was, the grade, the area, and also the name of the problem.
The title doesn't show in Tapatalk and it plays direct in the app unless you deliberately use the "Web view" option (which you probably wouldn't).
So that's less "witty sarcasm" and more "Grumpy git, not understanding", Dense.
Of course, because I did view it on Tapatalk, I didn't know the title appeared in the browser version.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
+1 for witty sarcasm there!
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:agree:
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A few chips wouldn't go amiss as a treat for beastly squirrel
hungry squirrel more like. A nourishing meal wouldn't go amiss.
Good effort though, pisses it.
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Jim Pope just won Youth A at the lead comp in the European Youth Cup at Mitterdorf! Nice one!
https://mobile.twitter.com/bmc_comps
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Today Jim Pope is the British Lead Climbing Champion, he also won the Youth A Juniors yesterday.
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Toby Roberts has done Raindogs aged 10 youngest Brit to climb an 8a in the UK
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aged 10
:o
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Aged 10 I had my first wank.
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Aged 10 I had my first wank.
That must have taken quite some time.
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http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/14-year-old-rhys-langlands-climbs-the-force-8b/
In case anyone missed it.
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70080
Not bad.
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Jack Ibbertson 9 (son of James) did Raindogs on Thursday. His brother Josh did it last year aged 10.
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Thats so cool. Was doing some nice links on it 3 weeks ago. Was wondering if he would do it before 10
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Isn't that 4 J Ibbertson's in one family I bet opening the post is fun
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Jack Ibbertson 9 (son of James) did Raindogs on Thursday. His brother Josh did it last year aged 10.
Apparently this made it in to the German climbing magazine 'Klettern'. Didn't realise it was international news!
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even complete punters can be covered by Klettern:
http://www.klettern.de/kletterziele/frankreich/klettern-mont-ventoux.1531938.5.htm
.... witness the shabbiness.... watch how the sparks fall upwards....
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and mrs ibbo is called Jenny! mind you, she is a girl so the title probably allows her to identify her post
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Maybe we should have some convention where J Ibbertson refers to the father, J ibbertson refers to the mother, j Ibbertson refers to the first son and j IBbertson refers to the second son.
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Enough JiBber!
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Emily Philips 13yrs has done La Cucina Dell'Inferno 8a at Massone Arco, on her first redpoint after a brief working after her onsight attempt. This is as far as I am aware the youngest GB female ascent of an 8a. She was on a Junior GB Team Training and the route received ascents from Jo Neame, Aiden Dunne, Kieran Forrest and Stan Harris all after Emily's. Great to see these kids enjoying some hard routes outside as well as climbing really hard on plastic. Emily has made 3 European Youth Cup Finals too this year 2 in bouldering 1 in lead
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I have a feeling this won't be the last we hear from her.
A shout has to go out to her coach Si Rawlinson, who's currently training a whole generation of future Emilys under the radar in Cardiff. Hopefully he'll see some more recognition as young mutants keep appearing from the sticks of South Wales.
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Jim Pope retains the title of British Lead Climbing Champion for the second year running despite not being 18 yet well done Jim. Some great climbing in all the other categories at Awesome Walls too over the weekend.
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Toby Roberts one year after doing the youngest ascent of Raindogs at 10 years old has done the youngest ascent of Revelations 8b at Raven Tor. Jumping a full grade in one year, well done Toby great effort. He has had his youngest ascent of Raindogs taken by Jack Ibbotson but it's great to see these young climbers trying hard.
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Big news out in China at the World Youth Climbing Championships Tara Hayes takes a silver medal in the bouldering, William Bosi takes a bronze in the bouldering and a silver in the overall (lead, bouldering and speed) these were the icing on the cake as the whole team did very well, well done Team GB
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Jack Ibbertson 9 (son of James) did Raindogs on Thursday. His brother Josh did it last year aged 10.
Caff reports on Facebook that Josh has onsighted two 8a's at Raco de Missa
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Jack Ibbertson (10) has done an 8b at Kilnsey now.
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Jack Ibbertson (10) has done an 8b at Kilnsey now.
The route in question I believe was Stolen, the extension of Cold Steal 8a.
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15 year old does 6th free ascent of the Nose (https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/15-year-old-conner-herson-frees-the-nose/?fbclid=IwAR0pbNYDU5jVMeoZ2imS3j_rpoq84yyFjxiAF7BaWLR5hTgBVkSH516SKU4&cn-reloaded=1)
:o
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Livvy Gent (11) did Mr Poppers 7C last month. I think it was only her second trip trying harder stuff - pretty impressive!
https://youtu.be/M3jR63UeiIg (https://youtu.be/M3jR63UeiIg)
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Not sure how this compares in the global scheme of things but Théo Blass (aged 9) has lead “Bertane” 8b at Montpelier (https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-8b-a-9-ans-pour-theo-blass-first-8b-aged-9-by-theo-blass/?fbclid=IwAR3LEelVrVNPypNqtjVV69VXqd83W7R4nZIleTBqh9PP3lTnMC81nnc3njA). Proud Dad and sponsor Vladimir Arnaoudov will be known to a few London climbers.
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Welsh lad Finn Hayward (15) has done Fish Eye 8c and Mind Control 8c (3rd go !!).
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Good scenes, he is a beast! :strongbench:
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Not sure how this compares in the global scheme of things but Théo Blass (aged 9) has lead “Bertane” 8b at Montpelier (https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-8b-a-9-ans-pour-theo-blass-first-8b-aged-9-by-theo-blass/?fbclid=IwAR3LEelVrVNPypNqtjVV69VXqd83W7R4nZIleTBqh9PP3lTnMC81nnc3njA). Proud Dad and sponsor Vladimir Arnaoudov will be known to a few London climbers.
8b at age 9 is particularly absurd, I looked it up and even Ondra was only working 8a at the same age. Surprised he's not getting more attention.
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That is pretty crazy. I obviously need to be more of a pushy parent/start cracking the whip :lol:
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Aussie import Dylan Soin did Pilgrim in the cave the other week - source (https://www.instagram.com/p/B6DOk-_jon4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
I think he is current British lead youth champ also - he has a strong heckle game to and can be heard at the Hangar most evening dishing abuse to all and sundry... :strongbench:
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Not sure how this compares in the global scheme of things but Théo Blass (aged 9) has lead “Bertane” 8b at Montpelier (https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-8b-a-9-ans-pour-theo-blass-first-8b-aged-9-by-theo-blass/?fbclid=IwAR3LEelVrVNPypNqtjVV69VXqd83W7R4nZIleTBqh9PP3lTnMC81nnc3njA). Proud Dad and sponsor Vladimir Arnaoudov will be known to a few London climbers.
Theo has now climbed 8c at 10 years old (https://fanatic-climbing.com/souvenirs-du-pic-8c-pour-theo-blass-10-ans-souvenirs-du-pic-by-theo-blass-10/).
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Toby Roberts (15) has reported on Instagram that he’s done Make it Funky and Mecca.
Dawid’s Son Joachim also 15 has also done Mecca.
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Nice to hear. Never even heard of him.
Says hes trying harder stuff now i guess evo.
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10 year old does Duel :jaw:
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CNNnAZQIE3R/?igshid=1qajdc73cixze
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:2thumbsup:
That's pretty cool.
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Not sure how this compares in the global scheme of things but Théo Blass (aged 9) has lead “Bertane” 8b at Montpelier (https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-8b-a-9-ans-pour-theo-blass-first-8b-aged-9-by-theo-blass/?fbclid=IwAR3LEelVrVNPypNqtjVV69VXqd83W7R4nZIleTBqh9PP3lTnMC81nnc3njA). Proud Dad and sponsor Vladimir Arnaoudov will be known to a few London climbers.
Theo has now climbed 8c at 10 years old (https://fanatic-climbing.com/souvenirs-du-pic-8c-pour-theo-blass-10-ans-souvenirs-du-pic-by-theo-blass-10/).
And 8c+ at 12 (https://www.instagram.com/p/CZNGMLcsheC/?utm_medium=copy_link)
Dad now well and truly burnt off.
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Not sure how this compares in the global scheme of things but Théo Blass (aged 9) has lead “Bertane” 8b at Montpelier (https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-8b-a-9-ans-pour-theo-blass-first-8b-aged-9-by-theo-blass/?fbclid=IwAR3LEelVrVNPypNqtjVV69VXqd83W7R4nZIleTBqh9PP3lTnMC81nnc3njA). Proud Dad and sponsor Vladimir Arnaoudov will be known to a few London climbers.
Theo has now climbed 8c at 10 years old (https://fanatic-climbing.com/souvenirs-du-pic-8c-pour-theo-blass-10-ans-souvenirs-du-pic-by-theo-blass-10/).
And 8c+ at 12 (https://www.instagram.com/p/CZNGMLcsheC/?utm_medium=copy_link)
And Trip Tik Tonik 9a at 12 years and 9 months. Youngest to do so, according to Dad (news report and interview (https://fanatic-climbing.com/theo-blass-plus-jeune-grimpeur-dans-le-9a-avec-ttt-theo-blass-youngest-to-climb-9a-with-ttt/)).
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Jessica Ward (11 years) did Rooster Booster first pitch 7c+ at The Tor last Sunday, two sessions previous best red point was Taking The Space 7b
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Jessica’s ascent is probably the youngest female to climb 7c+ in UK. One to watch for the future.
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Effort. 8a before teens?