UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: DavidM on January 23, 2023, 12:22:43 pm
-
Hi all,
I am looking for a few low profile volumes for my small home wall. It's only 8ft x 8ft so they need to be small. I don't have the time or energy to make some so needing to source some online and buy. Does anyone have any suggestions on suitable ones they have on their board that work well. I found this set but they don't deliver to UK.
Any help most appreciated.
https://eclipsepresas.eu/sloper-holds/l-size-triangle-climbing-holds.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI96vy-czd_AIVDdPtCh2hawvlEAQYAiABEgLef_D_BwE
-
I've got a couple of hardwood holds ones on my board which work nicely https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p190/Board__Volume.html#/ You can fit a couple of jenga block style crimps per side, or one small/medium resin hold.
-
Yeah saw those and thanks for replying how big is your board may I ask?
-
About 8ft wide by 10ft long. Here's a little pic of my board with them on. Personally I wouldn't want them much smaller as you wouldn't be able to fit many holds on.
(https://i.imgur.com/cE7cuOU.png)
-
Slightly left field but I asked a local joiner to make me some of these using surplus ply left over from the board build. He charged me £70 for 6 of them in the end. Might be worthwhile looking around. As far as I understand it they're really not that hard to whack together.
I rate having them on anyway, opens up some interesting options.
-
I appreciate the OP doesn't want to but as Bradders suggests they're really bloody easy to make with a decent* sliding mitre saw. I did the first few with a track saw then realised I could do everything with the mitre saw (much quicker). I used them on my board to allow trickery on the steeper sections when doing circuits (rather than resorting to jugs); they're a similar size to Remus as from memory I was asking myself the same question so simply found someone else's (likely HWH) for a reference. Each of mine have a singular T-nut on one face. I'm yet to whack my hip on one, which is nice.
*mine isn't even that decent (£~100)
-
thanks for replies
might just go with the HWH option.
Anyone have any experience based tips on setting them position and what to screw on to get use of them?
-
Might be worth contacting your local wall to see if they have any old ones kicking around? I got some that way.
-
Anyone have any experience based tips on setting them position and what to screw on to get use of them?
For me, they're set mainly for feet with footholds that allow you to Egyptian (or flag under) on circuits. If you're wanting them to introduce smaller holds then put them at a sensible height up the board (i.e. not for feet). Again, Remus' look good/sensibly placed.
-
Interesting thread because I've recently been toying around with how I want to set up my 30° board. I'm fairly keen to fill it up with slopers, poor pinches and small/sloping crimps etc to make a board that mimics hard sandstone. I'm really happy with how the 45° has turned out but the 30° hasn't seen much use and whilst I'll definitely be using it for circuits in future it's not really making good use of having that board available. It's about 2.7m high by 4m wide. Could probably populate it to a reasonable extent for 300€ish and then add more slowly. Anyone done this sort of board before and have any advice?
-
I'd splash out on the old Pusher Font sandstone slopers as they're incredible:
https://pusher.world/shop/fontainebleau/the-classic-font-set/
The old Foundry barrel board used to have these nearing the top and they were hard work (/rosetint)! The Kilter brushed sandstone range are pretty nice too?
-
thanks for replies
might just go with the HWH option.
Anyone have any experience based tips on setting them position and what to screw on to get use of them?
You might find this video useful, starts talking about small volumes at 3min30secs
https://youtu.be/C8c5ktL4c6M
-
That video was the inspiration for the purchase. He's got some good content decent channel.
-
I'd splash out on the old Pusher Font sandstone slopers as they're incredible:
https://pusher.world/shop/fontainebleau/the-classic-font-set/
The old Foundry barrel board used to have these nearing the top and they were hard work (/rosetint)! The Kilter brushed sandstone range are pretty nice too?
These look amazing. Serious cash though! I could fill most of the board for 350€ :) Latest trick has been taking my bluepill jugs and flipping them all inwards facing which makes it possible to use the sloped side for compression. Surprisingly good! The Kilters look lovely as well, could be a good shout.
-
I'd splash out on the old Pusher Font sandstone slopers as they're incredible:
https://pusher.world/shop/fontainebleau/the-classic-font-set/
That's hilarious. Holds remastered and reissued for the 40-somethings who first fondled them back in '98 at a price that extracts the maximum from their emotional associations. The climbing equivalent of OKNOTOK (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OK_Computer_OKNOTOK_1997_2017). This is surely a business opportunity for Moon: replica original School Room holds with GME and Falling Down playing the now slightly deaf Jonny Greenwood and Nigel Godrich roles selecting the off-cuts.
-
It's genuinely quite upsetting to see them go down the dual-texture route.