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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on May 12, 2019, 06:58:17 pm

Title: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: shark on May 12, 2019, 06:58:17 pm
11.0-3 Average155.9 up 0.1lb on last week

M AM Chee Tor with Nick. No warm ups He put the rope up Boobs, Andy Popps vert vision/nightmare. At least as hard as In Brine or Bain de Sang.

Second session on it for Nick. I had a long go working out and doing most of the moves Hard moves between dire small holds - felt like I’d been on Broomgrove all winter. Second go tried to shut out the pain pulling on the bad crimp on the low crux but couldn’t. Came down. Nick did some good links. Decamped.

Nick went home and I popped to the Tor. Rammed. Had three goes on Bens from kneebar. 1st go mistimed pull to high edge on THFML 2nd go did it to top! 3rd go swung off holding the high edge. Came home still buzzing did some weighted hangs. Got my psyche back.

T

W AM Started doing a Fingerboard/Ergo Edge sesss but off the pace on the progressions so stopped before attempting max hangs. Clearly had overdone it on Monday

T

F Eve drove to Devon

S AM S. AM Assisted one armers and weighted deadhangs benchmarking session on an S7 campus rung in a barn. About 2.5kgs stronger on unstrict half crimps and drags compared to when I did it last 11 weeks ago. Had 16 sessions on ergo edge since then. Best hang was +27.5kgs for 6 secs. Thought I’d be weaker on assisted one armers but was stronger. No improvements on drag but that might have been conditions

Eve Folk dancing, beer swilling and pasties

S Drove back

Plan was to climb mon, weds and fri with Nick C on Peak Lime but after Monday weather crapped out. Similar plan this week and weather looks good. Probably have two sessions on Ben’s
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Will Hunt on May 12, 2019, 07:35:30 pm
M - Got rained on at Brimham. Enjoyed a nice picnic with family and friends under a big roof.

F - Harrogate Wall. A warm up then 5 x routes of 7a or 7a+ flashed. Setting at this wall is consistently very good and often manages to mirror outdoor climbing.

Sa - Took the bab out with Lagers'/TTT old kiddy carrier (thanks guys!). Lunch at Feizor cafe then walked up onto Smearsett Scar and back down. Mite's hands nearly dropped off. Got cold. Mixed reviews from the bab... She very much enjoyed the lemon cake back at the cafe afterwards.

Su - Moughton Nab finishing off guidebook stuff. 6 routes up to 6c+.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 12, 2019, 08:44:17 pm
M rest

T fingers, shoulders and intensive core. Fingers seemed to be operating at about 90%, wondered if that's due to stepping up the intensity of the PE work?

W PE on fingerboard and core volume

Th rest

F - Having spent the morning teasing tt that his best chance of dry rock today was Minus Ten I headed there on a whim vaguely remembering that I once thought I could possibly do Zippy's if it was cooler than it was on that particular day.  It was cool but I couldn't touch it, or, as usual, anything else other than the soft 6C+ that uses Lucian's Undercut.  tt wisely changed his plans to Saturday.

10x10s hangs back home
Intensive Core
Some shoulders

Nipper came home from school and said she wanted to go the wall, so mini works for 1.5 hours.

S PE fingerboard, had to cut 3rd set short when a strange twang developed in my left arm every time I pulled on. Volume core

S nowt

Bit cautious abouth the knee this week. Actually felt better for climbing on it on Friday but wasn't so good for a combination of walking and sitting on Saturday.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: yetix on May 12, 2019, 10:26:28 pm
M: font, ticked Graviton and Jet Set
T: quick attempt at going around the blue circuit at Bas Cuvier before my flight home.
W: rest
T: slowly building up the max hangs on the fingerboard, managed to get upto +17.5kg for 5sx3, felt okay under static load but still feels far from okay. Also did bench press, dips, front flies on rings and some forearm antagonist work.
F: rest
S: went to St Bees, forgot my chalk, managed to do Undercooke but didn't get to try much else. Went to Woodwell on the way back, repeated crushinator stand and then tried the sit into it, dropped going for the last hard move a few times, should go soon.
S: went to Milestones, tried to repeat Harvey Oswald, felt hard despite feeling not bad last time, moves to the sit and pit traverse also felt harder now. Managed to scrape the barrel and do Ping! Though. Briefly tried Regeneration at Gallt yr Ogof, did the second two moves but the first felt nails (I guess I was pretty spanked though, and it's probably the reason it gets 7b?)
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: monkoffunk on May 12, 2019, 10:35:42 pm
STG - More volume: Climb 10 routes 7a-7c+ by end June (2/10)
Strength/roof bouldering training
Plan Spring Font trip
Maintain weight ~74kg
MTG - Complete as much from ever growing Font tick list as can.
Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn
LTG - 7C

M - Rest!

T - Portland. Not the Cuttings! Forearms so tender though, one day rest not enough. Worked Zinc, good links, will go quick. One of the best routes I’ve ever tried so psyched to just climb the moves, I’ll do this more than once for sure. Worked moves on Shape Shifter. One pretty hard move. Actually thought moves really cool once I stopped eliminating holds like a eejit. Tried to tick off Victims of Fashion. Spectacular failure, began to loose peripheral vision in my right eye. Unsure why but seems better now so all good. Thought seemed like a good time to call it a day.

W - Rest

T- Long day much needed double rest day.

F - Heading to Lukworth for wedding. Tried to sneak in a cheeky finger board session, got as far as 5 pull ups to warm up before wife home and had to leave.

S - Managed to fit in a little improvised session on a landing above the stairs in the place we were staying. Flat edge basically. Few sort of French one armers, more up than have prev managed, some frechies little core etc. 

Big ald family wedding with the usual excesses

S - Rest.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 12, 2019, 10:51:24 pm
Hi guys anyone object to me joining in Power Club this week? Be keen to see if it helps with the rehabilitation
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 12, 2019, 11:25:41 pm
Hi guys anyone object to me joining in Power Club this week? Be keen to see if it helps with the rehabilitation

A capital idea.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Coops_13 on May 12, 2019, 11:43:37 pm
M - W: Rest

T: Spot Denver. Took it relatively easy testing finger, still not up for hard crimping but could achieve a good amount of stuff. Jugs irritate it the most… Did some more techy problems and finished with some stretching

F:

S: Clear Creek Canyon bouldering. Warmed up and got on Mavericks V5, nails for the grade but so so good. Scary top-out, was v happy to do it. Went bush-whacking for an hour to try and find some boulders - ended up not being worth it. Flashed Bacterial V5 before trying a harder variation. Finger OK up to then but then I re-tweaked it :( Video of Mavericks below:
https://vimeo.com/335744987

Going to rest up for a couple of weeks to try and get finger better...
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 13, 2019, 07:14:36 am
Power Club.

STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Monday- family day
Tuesday- rest
Wednesday- 20 minutes board sesh
Thursday- rest
Friday- 20 minutes board session
Saturday- walk from rubicon to Tor and back. Met Stu under bens and fondled the holds- greasy
Sunday- encouraged to go to Moat so a friend could tick the crag. Bumped into TobyD and AndyF  :wave:
20 odd people 3 dogs, kids, and blazing sun. Resisted urge to wade out into the river moaning like a zombie.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 13, 2019, 07:22:22 am
Good luck with the knee rehab Ian.

M-kids session at Burbage. Nice day out. Didn’t climb anything much.
Evening 40 minute session at works. Warmed up and HC max hang session incl 2 or 3 reps of +25kgs on the BM smalls. Ace.
T-
W-
T-works session about 20 blacks (5+/6A) then a repeat of Monday’s fb session.
F-Physio for hamstring. It’s still knackered though. No running or left heel hooks for me.
S-Burbage West getting my head kicked in by True Git. Apparently a famous climber who will remain nameless hasn’t done it because it’s too hard. It’s nails. No on-line videos of anyone doing it “from the break” as per description. Evening works potter with mrs.
S-kids session at plantation. Wasn’t really trying anything but had a look at Honorary Caley 7A. It is most definitely not my sort of thing. High, thin, eliminatey. Thanks for the pointer anyway TTT but the arete was hard/scary enough for me on my own with 1 pad. Lots of pads under hourglass though and on about my sixth attempt I was finally brave enough to reach up for the jug rather than drop off. Fun. Good to get it done but much better was my wife flashing it after pretty much being bullied to put her shoes on.  Wasn’t brave for glass hour though - apparently you are supposed to go banzai and get it done. Not go chicken and drop off. Oh well next time.

Also repeated Zippy’s Traverse 7B in a oner. Again. Textbook easy-for-the-grade material this. It’s a bit knacky I suppose but once learnt it goes every time. I don’t think there’s a hard move on it. 6B. Certainly easier than slot sit down next door “dyno up to thin flake” which I would be surprised if anyone has done at 6B. Anyone?

Yes it really is all about grades.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 13, 2019, 08:13:02 am
Power Club.

STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Monday- family day
Tuesday- rest
Wednesday- 20 minutes board sesh
Thursday- rest
Friday- 20 minutes board session
Saturday- walk from rubicon to Tor and back. Met Stu under bens and fondled the holds- greasy
Sunday- encouraged to go to Moat so a friend could tick the crag. Bumped into TobyD and AndyF  :wave:
20 odd people 3 dogs, kids, and blazing sun. Resisted urge to wade out into the river moaning like a zombie.

Do we now have to guess the style of the reglaur poster you've copied?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: jwi on May 13, 2019, 08:39:56 am
Goal: Getting fit for trip to Waterval Boven in July.

As far as I've gathered from looking on videos, every single hold is a full crimp. It is not very steep, and the routes are of medium length (up to 35 m or so), with few hard parts longer than 15 moves.

Tue May 7
Bouldering gym
Crimpy boulders
Campusing on very rounded 10mm hardwood edges. 3 sets. Up to 6 moves as best.
Wed May 8
Hangboard
20 mm half crimp
-14 kg right 10s   -14 kg left 10s
-14 kg right 15s   -14 kg left 15s
-14 kg left   17s   -14 kg right 17s
Thu May 9
Bouldering gym
Boulders from national university comp. Either piss easy or super hard.
Campusing on the rounded 10mm hardwood edges. 3 sets. Up to 5 moves as best.
Sat May 11
Hangboard
20 mm half crimp
-14 kg right 15s   -14 kg left 15s
-10 kg right  10s (hard)   -10 kg left 10s (hard)
-10 kg right  10s (ok)   -10 kg left 10s (ok)
-10 kg right  10s (ok)   -10 kg left 10s (ok)
-10 kg right  10s (hard)   -10 kg left 10s (ok)
Sun May 12
Bouldering Gym
SE 2 circuits of about 90s climbing
2x3x90s: r=3min, R=10min
Pullups, Wide, neutral-wide, neutral narrow
Aveyron river
Paddling downstream 3h. Not training for anything, but made me a bit tired
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 13, 2019, 09:40:15 am
Good luck with the knee rehab Ian.

Cheers, you too with the hamstring

Wasn’t brave for glass hour though - apparently you are supposed to go banzai and get it done. Not go chicken and drop off. Oh well next time.

Lagers describes it as 5B to do the move, 6B to bail.

Also repeated Zippy’s Traverse 7B in a oner. Again. Textbook easy-for-the-grade material this. It’s a bit knacky I suppose but once learnt it goes every time.

Yes it's an easy 7B but it is 7B, but you can repeat any problem well within your ability once you've figured it out.  The problem is figuring it out.  Think you've said in the past that you rarely go to new places preferring to stick with what you know? Maybe you should branch out elsewhere, climb a load of stuff at lower grades, but climb them well not just scrape up them. Keep repeating until they feel easy for the grade.  You're clearly strong enough but maybe need to work on expanding your movement vocabulary, and your belief in it. Then you'll spot the knack more easily and won't be getting shut down on stuff you feel you should be capable of.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: gollum on May 13, 2019, 10:40:06 am
 M - Calderdale Way Relay leg 6 with Mrs B. Nice morning out in the countryside near home. Avengers in the afternoon.
Stretching in the evening.

T - Legs session in the morning. Solid on squats and box squats but feel a tweak in my back on the last set so take it steady on deadlifts and just do really slow reps with a light weight followed by a bit of abs and obliques.
Steady treadmill run at lunchtime which feels great and makes me go a bit quicker than I have been doing of late.
Evening session at the Depot. Start with Campusing and am just a little of the mark, although I don feel a bit stiff and won’t be surprised if a cold is on its way. Then do a board session which goes pretty well working on old projects and new ones, but still doing okay at the end of the session which feels like progress in itself.

W - Push day. Start with shoulder press and manage three at 50k which is definitely getting back to where I was a year and a bit ago. Think my shoulder may be almost recovered and just have to try hard not to mess it up again. Then do some benches for triples up to 90k with a towel on my chest to stop me from messing pop said shoulder by going to deep with my Mr Tickle arms., before some declines and inclines, finishing with some steady TRX stuff.
A run in the rain before work and an hour chilling at home sets me top for the day.
Evening at the Depot and warm up with edge pulls. Solid on 14 mm edges with 20k added for 5 sets of 3 reps, mixing in some steady TRX.
Project session. Good first problem, fingers feeling good on Steady Intro and get it second go. Don’t quite manage Zoo York replica but pretty solid on sections when I get it right.

T - Travelling to La Palm for the Transvulcania half marathon. A week off climbing but imagine a fair bit of running.

F- Chilled day before the race. Steady 5k in the heat and a bit of stretching.

S - Transvulcania half marathon. Great course but not one for a PB as there are 2000m of climbing over some rugged terrain. Great experience and loved it.
We had people in the half, full and ultra and what a day. We had slips,trips, falls, five visits to medical tents, one visit to hospital, one helicopter ride off the mountain, a finish within one minute of the cut off, bodily fluid issues, heat stress, altitude issues and it was Mrs B’s birthday (she was two of the falls and the hospital visit to clean her chin so they could stitch it.) A memorable day all around.

S - Relaxing. Stretching and a leg stretching recovery jog.

Eventful and satisfying week.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Duma on May 13, 2019, 11:24:39 am
Sounds mental gollum!

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - nothing, am drive back from Wales, pm in work.

T - TCA, meant to do max hangs as only had an hour, but part of the hard set had been reset so got distracted by that. Managed 8/10, happy enough but don't think I did anything >6C+. 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU.

W - 30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU.

T -  30PU, 20VSit, 10SU, 15PINCU.

F - Nothing.

S - TCA with daughter, rest of hard set were up, managed to juggle climbing with her and getting a bunch more of them done. Def soft compared to the last lot, but still happy to get all but 3 finished in 2 sessions. All moves done on 2 of the remaining ones too. Drank too much in eve. 30PU, 15VSit, 15SU.

S - Beach with daughter and her mate. Not much exercise but knackering. Think got dehydrated as feel like shit today...

Av 70.7 kg. Too heavy, but dehydration assisted 69.7 this morning...

Not much climbing this week, life and work got in the way. Bought new guide for rocklands though, there's so much more in it! Psyched!
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: AMorris on May 13, 2019, 11:34:25 am
Great weeks training culminating in a superb weekend in North Wales. I wish they could all be like this!

M - A session at the wall seeing how I feel on the harder testpieces. All this fingerboarding seems to be doing wonders, as everything felt pretty reasonable.

T - Rest

W - BM session: One arm half crimp and open hand. Felt pretty strong, and found myself adding a bit of weight on some of the hangs. Encouraging results for early in the season.

T - Wall session again. Doing a few of the more strung out cave problems to get the core going. Nothing interesting.

F - Rest.

S - Up to north wales for a weekend in the glorious weather. My mate was doing the 12km race just outside aber so he dumped me in the pass. Had a warmup on the roadside classics: the edges, johnnys wall, and the various eliminates to the left. Jumped on Diesel Power to reacquaint myself with the moves, and after about 20 minutes, and a bit of trying hard I was somehow stood on top of my first 8A. Even though it went quickly in my second session (although I did try it a few years back when I had no chance in hell), I have had this problem as a very forlorn aim in my climbing since I first saw Chris Davies on it in Stick It years ago, when I was first starting out. I vividly remember thinking "that's a real hard boulder", so it feels like I have kind of done what I set out to do. Having said that it was a classic anticlimax, and I just kind of patted myself on the back and had a custard cream. I also got a tidy flash of Tunnel Wall, which I was glad not to have to try twice, those are some sharp holds. Back to the hut for margaritas in the evening.

S - Bumming around Llanberis in the morning, checking out the boot sale and a great new coffee shop 2 down from Peter's Culinary Extravaganza. Whilst drinking coffee, which was sticking to my tongue it was so strong, we decided it was a Gogarth day and went off to do A Dream of White Horses. We abbed into a busy crag and missed the first belay ledge (incredibly), so ended up doing the low tide pitch to the first belay of Dream. By this point a few more had joined the circus, and someone was on Wen, meaning we were out of luck for that belay. Rather than standing on that thin ledge 40m above the sea for an hour, we decided to just escape direct back to the ab station, which turned out to be a lovely pitch of climbing with a particularly engaging slithery chimney to top out into the world. As it turns out, this may have been a first ascent, since its not in the definitive guide or on UKC. We reckon it must have been done before but not reported. Either way, it can now be found as "Dreaming of a Dream of White Horses" - VS 4c.

Gorgeous weather and a great weekend, possibly the last one I get before submitting my thesis. Looks like I am going to have to find another problem to think about now! Suggestions for what this could be are very welcome and much appreciated.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 13, 2019, 12:01:22 pm
Awesome, good effort
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: cheque on May 13, 2019, 12:17:54 pm
Rehab Diaries Week Thirty-eight

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Grit Trad list (16 14/20 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Covered this last week.

T- Rest.

W- Exercise bike in the gym. Increased the levels as usual.

T&F- Rest.

S- Burbage w/ girlfriend, aiming to quickly pick one of the pieces of low-hanging fruit off my list but heavy showers ruled this out. Still, walking around with a rucksack of trad gear was good exercise, the sun was out when it wasn’t raining and the timing of the showers meant that we found shelter each time and didn’t get wet at all!

S- Kinder Downfall, the furthest major venue from a road in the Peak and consequently the least-climbed on- it’s certainly the first time I’ve carried a rope & rack up. Also home to three routes from my list on it’s various crags. Did two of them (the last two HSs  :dance1: ), Mermaid’s Ridge, a two-pitch route with something for everyone and Great Chimney, a bit of a sandbag, particularly if you can’t bridge the start and spend twenty minutes trying to follow the incorrect line on the BMC guide topo before noticing the far easier, better and more polished climbing out left  :slap:

My partner decided to take us on a scenic route down (1:45 and not all downhill) which ended up leading through a wood that’s obviously popular for “wild” camping- three settlements there and two more groups heading up as we progressed down. Pretty depressing the state some people think it’s OK to leave it in- sawn-down trees, permanent fire pits, human waste and litter all over the place.  :(

Another good week. This list is one of the best climbing ideas I’ve ever had- the guilt-free bumbling is a blast, I’m getting better at trad all the time and getting stronger rehab-wise in the process. Quite pleased I’m getting proper rehab in in the gap between recovering from the weekend and resting for the next one too- the weight sessions I was doing on a Sunday have had to be shelved though as I just can’t combine that with climbing at the weekend and that bit of the gym is way too busy in the after-work slot.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 13, 2019, 12:33:38 pm
Power Club.

STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Monday- family day
Tuesday- rest
Wednesday- 20 minutes board sesh
Thursday- rest
Friday- 20 minutes board session
Saturday- walk from rubicon to Tor and back. Met Stu under bens and fondled the holds- greasy
Sunday- encouraged to go to Moat so a friend could tick the crag. Bumped into TobyD and AndyF  :wave:
20 odd people 3 dogs, kids, and blazing sun. Resisted urge to wade out into the river moaning like a zombie.

Do we now have to guess the style of the reglaur poster you've copied?

Not at all ian, it actually happened. I’m trying to repent for my sins and feeling the training psyche. I forgot to say my 2x20 minute board sessions involved Limit Boulders on the 2 minutes. I’m experimenting with ‘extreme rest’ briefly popular in the mid 90’s. Anyone else tried it with good results?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Will Hunt on May 13, 2019, 12:37:40 pm
Has somebody turned Dan off and on again?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: 36chambers on May 13, 2019, 12:42:46 pm
STG- lose 1/2 stone, font 7C on the lime, French 8a
MTG- sort work life balance, start training harder, French 8a+, consolidate at 7C
LTG- Get back on my project, maintain fitness, French 8b and font 8A

Bullshit.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Will Hunt on May 13, 2019, 12:50:16 pm
I actually think it's a double-bluff. Get everyone psyched about Dan's training programme, promise some sort of Rocky-like montage video of him on a Lattice Board with Randall spraying him down with cold water, then have a big launch party with all of Sheffield's biggest names invited.
The throng gathers. Jerry calls for silence. A hush falls. The video is actually some camera phone footage of Dan's arse, buttocks being prised apart rhythmically to make his ringpiece 'speak'.

"tHe UFCK comMuniTy woUld LIKe To welComE yOu To THE shoW".

Then an hour of him climbing hard-ish trad routes with all the gear pre-placed and the rope round his oh-so-visible nutsack.

It's going to be a triumph.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: spidermonkey09 on May 13, 2019, 12:51:18 pm
M - session at the Climbing Station in Loughborough. Have to say I had a rose tinted view of this wall from my uni days but was left distinctly unimpressed; dingy, dirty and look like it hasn't been updated since I left in 2015. The setting on the circuit board was a bit bouldery but did some reasonable fitness work on it regardless.

T - Max Hangs. Felt a bit tired but glad I did them. First proper session following the Moon protocol (on YouTube). Felt good although had to fight to avoid dropping out of half crimp. Should get better with work.

W - rest.

T - Malham. Really good session. Had a go from the deck but got cold hands and couldn't pull on the holds. Found new foot sequence which should eradicate a few moves though; looking forward to trying this in earnest. Having pulled through the boulder I dogged to the top crux and successfully linked from the undercuts after the shit rest to the top twice in succession. Very pleased and would have been happy with just this in a session tbh. Next go up I linked from kneebars to shit undercut rest with ease which felt great. Didn't recover brilliantly though and failed to do crux moves out of the rest. After sitting on the rope for a while linked from this rest to the top rest where I tried and failed to shake out before falling off the last hard move brutally pumped. Would have been nice to take it to the top from here as would have meant I'd then done the headwall in two, but I was so tired at the end of the session I'm not too fussed. Finished by hammering that section and the cross through move at the top until I could barely close my fist. Determined to wire this section as falling off there doesn't bear thinking about!  :o

Overall very promising. Headwall felt the best it ever has and don't think I'm all that far from linking it in a oner. Think I'm still a way off doing the boulder from the deck though so need to step up work on that.

S - Attempted to go to Stanage as part of a uni get together/piss up. Got hailed on and rained on but gf managed a route when the sun came out and dried the rock; I didn't!

S - High Neb for the day. Super busy so belayed for much of the day before having a rush of psych when the shade arrived. Some incredibly loud climbers did not aid my mood earlier in the day! Did King Kong E3 before falling off Quietus Right Hand having done the hard work and clipped the cam at the nose  :slap: Traverse out was terrifying but tried hard and it was fun. Got some great pictures even if not the tick!

Max hangs tonight and planning a session on the crux boulder tomorrow evening after work. Should also get back Thursday and weekend. Psyched as long as the body holds together!

Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: andy popp on May 13, 2019, 01:05:15 pm
Boobs, Andy Popps vert vision/nightmare.

Zippy's vision really, Boobs reclimbed his No Bolts Please, We're British after it lost holds and extended up into the Boo exit (it originally went left into Rave On after the first bulge).
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 13, 2019, 01:10:23 pm
You’ve got it wrong Will, although that hellish vision has sparked the interest of the UFCK editorial. A space has recently become available on the team. Slarty will be in contact via Facebook if you like?
Otherwise I’m fully back in the training zone. Duma rightly put it in his recent smite, and this has reoriented my thinking back to a more reasonable less silly perspective. 
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Steve R on May 13, 2019, 03:36:12 pm
Aims: uninjured, 70kg, all the 8's

M - light river hull run, ~40mins
T- Mad vollies wall pm. ususal thing, trying some upstairs circuit problems then getting stuck in on the board for session peak.
W -~40min run + stretch
T- MV wall pm. same as tues really.  felt good so think/hope recovery between sessions is improving.
F- rest
S- rest
S- Rylstone, easy bouldering.  Pretty warm and very scrittly cons but nice day to be up there. no other bloc boulderers or trad scrittlerers in sight. 

finger audit; lump seems bigger and harder but not tender at all now when poked and prodded.  feeling relatively optimistic about it but will remain vigilant. Hoping lump size reduces a bit.  weight static in 75/6 kg range- resigned to putting more effort into this a bit down the line when strength (re)gain curve flattens off.  Will just keep on with unstructured sessions for time being, obvs not optimally efficient but enjoyable and def moving in the right direction.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2019, 04:26:12 pm
M- nowt. Helped out at kids athletics in evening
T - 6.75 km run. leg still hurts
W - wall session. Actually felt OK and managed a few harder things
T - yoga, hard with sore shoulders from climbing
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - wall with kids. Both climbed quite well, and managed a good session on new probs. Start of running assessment in afternoon, impressed so far, highlighted a few issues.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 13, 2019, 04:47:22 pm
Steve, I’d lower the intensity but increase the volume. Maybe consider a solid 6-8 week ancap phase moving into summer then building the finger up from there. These issues take a while. Lots of up-downing on auto belays or circuits on the 10 minutes. Try to hang from a jug rather than step off completely even if both feet are on the ground 👍
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Yossarian on May 13, 2019, 04:56:51 pm
Steve, I’d lower the intensity but increase the volume. Maybe consider a solid 6-8 week ancap phase moving into summer then building the finger up from there. These issues take a while. Lots of up-downing on auto belays or circuits on the 10 minutes. Try to hang from a jug rather than step off completely even if both feet are on the ground 👍

Power Club is now sponsored by DanCap Training Inc.

If you can't beat 'em, Cheetham...
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 13, 2019, 06:44:35 pm
I thought it was solid advice. Anyway I’m going to have to ride out the storm here I guess. I’m determined to stick to the training plan. High intensity low volume with big rest. Keen to see gains that way and get on some bigger grades in the winter
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Steve R on May 13, 2019, 07:30:09 pm
Thanks for the tailored plan, cheque made out to UFCK is in the post.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 13, 2019, 07:53:05 pm
Hey I’m nothing to do with thaT bunch of piss taking arseholes
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 13, 2019, 08:47:26 pm
Lagers describes it as 5B to do the move, 6B to bail.
Love it!

Quote
Think you've said in the past that you rarely go to new places preferring to stick with what you know? Maybe you should branch out elsewhere, climb a load of stuff at lower grades, but climb them well not just scrape up them. Keep repeating until they feel easy for the grade.  You're clearly strong enough but maybe need to work on expanding your movement vocabulary, and your belief in it. Then you'll spot the knack more easily and won't be getting shut down on stuff you feel you should be capable of.
Thanks for this Nai. You’re right of course. Almost all of my climbing is either with the kids or on a short pass. Both sort lend themselves to convenience boulders. But I could certainly branch out or at least try different things at my normal venues. Just did that today and got spanked on a 6A slab, a 6B mantle thing and a 7A slab.

Meanwhile yesterday repeating something called steep traverse, though I have no memory of doing it before I did see some folk on it, so just copied what they did and it felt like a path. Where is the hard version of steep traverse?

Sorry folks, appreciate I’m a bit of a broken record on this. I love climbing but I’m really dyslexic over it and things that others seem to just get I find I need spelling out. Every now and then I find one I can do and so of course I do it lots. Promise to go climbing other things as part of my training plan.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tomtom on May 13, 2019, 09:06:52 pm
Some great posts this week. welComE Dan :)

AMorris. Superb! 8A!!!

I've a had a good climbing week.

M: Back to Birchen and Gardoms with Plattsy. We both managed to see off MP3 in reasonably rapid time after Saturdays efforts (cooler - ie not direct sunshine - temps helped) Here's Plattsy in action - Murph. Here's a very soft 7B... though the move might be a bit of a stretch sure theres another way...

https://youtu.be/vXvZDhoD6QU

Then back down to Bin Ladens cave - I felt spent - but managed to figure out the top of Bin Lillemule - and once figured it felt not so bad... great problem that doesnt get as much attention as Bin Ladens cave - but is just as good IMHO.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2b7FJNTjrM

Tu: Over to work in 'ull and caught up with SteveR at Hulls new premier bouldering venue Mad Volume. A bit spent as my second day on, but a great venue and had a good work out.

We:

Th:

Fri: Had a pass... weather looked crap. Unintentionally missed Nai's message about heading to -10 and stayed at home and did some work. Did some assiseted one armer things in the afternoon. Felt weak, but enjoyed pulling hard. Tennis elbow behaved itself...

Sa: Blackstone. GREAT day for it.... did some great low 6’s that I’d not done before - and then a comedy circuit of problems I couldn’t do :) including...

Naomi’s wall SS 7B+. Managed to get my arse off the deck on this one but felt like I’d need all my lank to keep my right toe under the lip. Good effort Mike on this.. very hard for the not tall I’d suspect.

Fridge Hugger SS. 7B+ Better than ever before here - potential using the GCW slap method - got my RH quite a long way up the Arête...

Then Fiend turned up to cheer me on :D - and on to...

Niks Slap 7A - at Robin Mueller suggestion - couldn’t even raise an arse cheek off the deck 😂
Peewees under cuts 7B. See above. 😂
Niks Groove 7A. Progress here - levitated off the deck but couldn’t keep in balance enough to slap up with the left.

For most of the above Fiend looked on and chortled at the futility of my bouldering. I had my revenge introducing him to a 6B slab in the sun then runnong off home :)

Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 13, 2019, 09:30:31 pm
Murph. Here's a very soft 7B... though the move might be a bit of a stretch sure theres another way...

https://youtu.be/vXvZDhoD6QU


Not height dependent but probably not 7B either
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 13, 2019, 10:10:10 pm
Thanks TT looks absolutely bob on that one. Good vid on that one with the funky top out too  :clap2:
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Nibile on May 13, 2019, 10:20:46 pm
Power Club

Mon - various weights with finisher set (rest pause). Static-dynamic pull ups. Tired!
Tue - rest.
Wed - BM front3 one arm on small pocket + yoke complex x5, all x6. Abs.
Thu - boxing bag, speed. Speed is the mother of all power.
Fri - weights of some sort.
Sat - clean and press, snatch pulls, farmer's.
Sun - weights, yoke complex.

Quite happy about the one arm hangs on front3 after ages.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: xelaxela on May 15, 2019, 10:30:21 am
Power Club

Goals: Remain Uninjured , 62kg, back to bouldering 7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still OK, Still 75.7kg, 6C regularly (7A indoors)

M - Bank Holiday so indoor wall was closed ended up just training 3 sets of 10 hanging leg raises with strict form holding for 1 seconds at the top of each rep and 5 sets of 10 pull ups on each minute
T - Rain!!! ended up climbing going to Craig-y-Longridge anyway as its normally dry for light rain, but only got about 20 mins of climbing in over the 2 hours as the wind was blowing the rain into the rock
W - Switched from two handed to one handed dead hangs on a 20mm edge as was starting to get too hard to hang more weight off myself - so I did the Crimpd finger strength testing session and found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that  :weakbench:
T - 45 minute indoor bouldering conditioning session before work, 5 routes without touching the ground as a warm up, 5 mins rest then 30 problems of varying difficulty max 30 seconds rest between each.
F - Went for a weekend away with the family so nothing
S - Still away
S - Still away
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Steve R on May 15, 2019, 11:42:56 am
Power Club

Goals: ....62kg...7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still 75.7kg, 
...found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that 
If you hit your 62kg goal (or even get half way there) whilst maintaining current finger strength I'd have thought 7C's would most likely serve as pleasant warm ups whilst touring around on 8B's.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: teestub on May 15, 2019, 11:49:20 am
What Steve R said! You definitely already have 7C strong fingers at your current weight so it’s not going to be that holding you back.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: abarro81 on May 15, 2019, 11:54:44 am
Power Club

Goals: ....62kg...7C regularly in UK
Currently: Still 75.7kg, 
...found out my 1 rep max hang on one arm is only 2 kg's under my body weight was super happy with that 
If you hit your 62kg goal (or even get half way there) whilst maintaining current finger strength I'd have thought 7C's would most likely serve as pleasant warm ups whilst touring around on 8B's.

Even without losing weight I'd say that's strong enough for 8B
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Steve R on May 15, 2019, 01:28:06 pm
I'm sure there's a very funny and original joke to do with height and knee-bars to be made at this point but yeh, I'll just take your word for it!
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 15, 2019, 06:35:16 pm
Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 15, 2019, 07:38:29 pm
Yeah, I think that’s what it says in the rankings when all other variables are taken into account . I’m still just deciding between a cwp, Lopez, Anderson or moon protocol. Anyone experimented with these? Which showed the most gains?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 15, 2019, 08:20:28 pm
The getting on with it and trying ufcking hard protocol generally works
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 15, 2019, 08:37:33 pm
Thanks ian, I’m really keen on trying the cwp protocol but I read a while back the feathering risks injury? The Anderson protocol is repeaters which seems to high volume for full recruitment and neuromuscular adaptation. Plus any advantage over bilateral versus unilateral hangs?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 15, 2019, 09:13:29 pm
I've found that going bouldering, going home half an hour early and doing some shoulder and core exercises has not only made me stronger but a more skilled rock climber too, so have all but given up fingerboarding unless I do something really stupid like injure my leg.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: joeisidle on May 15, 2019, 11:33:37 pm
Better late than never;
M – Light weights for shoulders & engagement exercises, therabanding, leg raises, mountain climbers and press-ups
T –  Stoke AW; Good indoor session, do a circuit problem I'd been trying on previous sessions and two board projects I'd failed on previously
W- Nada
T- Same
F -  Light weights for shoulders & engagement exercises, therabanding, leg raises, mountain climbers and press-ups
S – Dartmoor bouldering (Black hill boulders and Bonehill) – attempt to go to Bovey Woods but waste a load of time walking in and find it damp, do a gentle circuit at Blackhill, get spanked by anything harder than 6b and rapidly run out of skin, but have a decent time and meet some nice locals
S- Indoor ropes; gentle volume and some therabanding
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: teestub on May 16, 2019, 01:20:39 pm
Yeah, I think that’s what it says in the rankings when all other variables are taken into account . I’m still just deciding between a cwp, Lopez, Anderson or moon protocol. Anyone experimented with these? Which showed the most gains?

Hey Dan have you done some benchmarking against your SMART short, medium and long term goals to make sure isometric finger strength is the correct KPI to focus on to achieve the performance gains you are after?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: abarro81 on May 16, 2019, 03:20:23 pm
Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??

When I read "Crimpd finger strength testing session" I assumed (maybe wrongly) that we were talking the Lattice edge.. in which case my PB is 2kg assist (for 5s hang) at a point when I weighted ~70kg; which means for me this is strong enough for (roughly) 8Bish... obviously style dependant, I'm sure there are plenty of 8Bs it's not strong enough for me to get up, but there'd be plenty it is. BM edge is easier, especially if you nestle, but I don't know quantifiably how much easier...
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 16, 2019, 04:19:22 pm
Thanks Alex that clears it up. Yeah the middle BM is much easier. For me being able to one arm that is good enough for something a lot lot less than 8B.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: shark on May 16, 2019, 06:53:08 pm

When I read "Crimpd finger strength testing session" I assumed (maybe wrongly) that we were talking the Lattice edge.. in which case my PB is 2kg assist (for 5s hang) at a point when I weighted ~70kg; which means for me this is strong enough for (roughly) 8Bish...

What’s your opinion on testing this in terms of grip. When Tom originally tested it was using the grip that was your strongest (which makes sense) but now it seems testing has to be half-crimped
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: abarro81 on May 16, 2019, 06:56:03 pm
I think they changed it because they found it correlated better if they forced 1/2 crimp - probably it kills some weird outliers like Ella (who is about 10kg stronger on a 3 finger drag than a 4 finger half crimp!)...
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 16, 2019, 07:50:33 pm
Tim mentioned SMART goals earlier and I’m really keen to get going with this idea. About 2 years ago I benchmarked about 15kg assistance on a 10mm edge hang which equated to about V3 on the scale I think? I’m wondering what I need to do to get back to lapping powerband, apart from visualisation techniques which I’ve started to incorporate. Maybe aim for 10kg assistance, does that equate to 7C or in powerbands case French 8a?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: shark on May 16, 2019, 10:00:57 pm
I think they changed it because they found it correlated better if they forced 1/2 crimp - probably it kills some weird outliers like Ella (who is about 10kg stronger on a 3 finger drag than a 4 finger half crimp!)...

One arm to two?

Last time I checked I was about 15kg stronger on a 2 arm hang dragging/chiselling on 4 fingers compared to half crimp on an edge though not the lattice one
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 16, 2019, 10:42:52 pm
It’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chisel
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: abarro81 on May 17, 2019, 08:43:23 am
You're better off asking Lattice rather than me...
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: shark on May 17, 2019, 10:11:02 am
You're better off asking Lattice rather than me...

Get sense out of you. Seems to me if you are going to attempt to correlate finger strength with route grade achievement you ideally test the three main grips / joint angles or if one then the strongest one that you’d default to on the route. Anyway don’t care much really it was idle curiosity. The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: shark on May 17, 2019, 10:16:35 am
It’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chisel

Get that but not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tomtom on May 17, 2019, 10:20:03 am
It’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chisel

Get that but not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b

Age will do it eventually 😃
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Duma on May 17, 2019, 10:35:19 am
The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.
... not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: teestub on May 17, 2019, 10:47:20 am
The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.

Preach!  :agree:
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Steve R on May 17, 2019, 10:57:29 am
then the strongest one that you’d default to on the route.

I'd guess that's a crucial bit.  Anecdotally, I've seen a couple of low sevens (font) rounded climbers able to comfortably hang bw on the BM2k middle bottom incut slot one armed with 3 finger drag.  Arm's straight suggesting a very passive hang on the skellington?  Get the same climber under the cosh on a route or problem and they won't be trying to straight arm, 3 finger drag their way upwards even if the holds bear close resemblance that bm2k slot. 
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 17, 2019, 11:03:55 am
You're better off asking Lattice rather than me...

Thanks Alex, I’ll get on their Facebook page. I fear direct contact with the board would have to take place through a psychic or medium in direct contact with the transcendent beings of planet LeTTuCe (fuck broke cover)
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tim palmer on May 17, 2019, 11:14:07 am

Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??


Am I wrong in thinking it doesn't mean you are 8b strong, it just means by this arbitrary measure you are comparable to people who have climbed 8b? 
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: shark on May 17, 2019, 11:45:34 am
The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.
... not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b

It’s a koan.

Furrow your brow and you may gain enlightenment
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Bradders on May 17, 2019, 03:26:26 pm

Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?

For real??


Am I wrong in thinking it doesn't mean you are 8b strong, it just means by this arbitrary measure you are comparable to people who have climbed 8b?

Yes for all the Lattice measures I think it's "other people have climbed at level X with this level of strength/endurance in the given task".
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Sasquatch on May 17, 2019, 04:35:42 pm
 FWIW - A while back I did their assessment and they listed 103% of BW as normal for v11, and 107% of BW was standard for v12. So I'd assume BW only on the 20mm testing edge is around v10ish.

Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Bradders on May 17, 2019, 04:53:32 pm
Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...

Well yeah this is it, strong enough for 8B for one person might be only enough for 8A for someone else, and vice versa. It's the averages across a large data set that are probably most interesting but even then it's surely little more than a guide.

As another case in point, when I did my first few supposed 8As I was an absolute country mile off one arm hanging the beastmaker middle low edge and the best I've managed a couple of years on is still only c. 93% of bodyweight.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Coops_13 on May 17, 2019, 05:12:14 pm
Although my grades are way lower than all of yours, I probably have the weakest fingers relative to grades climbed...
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Bradders on May 17, 2019, 05:18:33 pm
But the strongest arms Coops  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tomtom on May 17, 2019, 05:29:15 pm
But the strongest arms Coops  :strongbench:

😃 ain’t that the truth
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Doylo on May 17, 2019, 05:39:34 pm
Dave Graham has climbed 8C+ and I know he’d be wank at these one arm tests. I’ve seen him try to hang off one arm. Then are ‘punters’-who measure 8B strength on the tests  :shrug:
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Nibile on May 17, 2019, 07:01:58 pm
Dave Graham has climbed 8C+ and I know he’d be wank at these one arm tests. I’ve seen him try to hang off one arm. Then are ‘punters’-who measure 8B strength on the tests  :shrug:
Yes but when Tommy Caldwell and his fiance ages ago went on tour across the USA to gather stats for a dissertation about climbers' fingers, Graham scored the highest finger strength. I read it on Climbing Magazine, they didn't say much more but I assume it was two arms crimped.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Nibile on May 17, 2019, 07:09:12 pm
And yes, I am fairly certain that
The Lattice references work the other way round, that is not in a predictive way. They are the result of testing people that have climbed a certain grade and not of training people on the Edge until they reach a certain level on that and then letting them out on rock to see which grade they can climb.
And finally, you can't compare half crimp scores and front3 drag scores, just as you can't compare apples and oranges, or Fuckalls and Pounds.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 17, 2019, 07:10:00 pm
FWIW - A while back I did their assessment and they listed 103% of BW as normal for v11, and 107% of BW was standard for v12. So I'd assume BW only on the 20mm testing edge is around v10ish.

Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...

Thanks Sasquatch it was these sort of numbers I had in mind so was surprised to hear 100%=8B benchmark strength.

For all of these correlations what we’ve seen time and again is that it’s damn hard to have a decent explanatory variable that is to be consistent for a tall/short/skinny climber on a knee bar/slab/crimp one move wonder/endurance test.

The better correlation for half crimp vs open I had always thought had more to do with it being a better proxy for a lot of other things. Meaning that if someone will go to the effort of training that pretension properly then it makes it more likely that they’ve taken the whole training thing seriously and done their elastic band exercises too.

The dependent variable -grade Y- is almost entirely without meaning. So much else goes into getting the grade including whether the person is willing to drive out to blackwell dale in the cold and wet umpteen times to dry holds by the road or whether they jet off to find some holiday grades in rocklands/switzerland/wherever. Or whether they give up or never look in the first place or just go around having a nice time doing other stuff.

FWIW, bodyweight on middle BM fairly easily last time I checked and could not climb 6A+ yesterday.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: nai on May 17, 2019, 07:34:38 pm
Remember what Ron said, folk:

"Nothing gives you confidence like technique".

So stop stressing/pondering about how much you can hang vs your grade, learn some skillz and go forth.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 17, 2019, 08:24:11 pm
Ian? Ian? Where arst thou? Ian?
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tim palmer on May 17, 2019, 08:43:47 pm
All of this strength correlation business is surely all utter nonsense in the manner in which it has been sold.

However I do appreciate the lattice take on bmi i.e. having one in the lower end of normal is good
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tomtom on May 17, 2019, 09:18:35 pm
All of this strength correlation business is surely all utter nonsense in the manner in which it has been sold.

Exactly.

Next someone will be saying that being tall is an advantage!!!!
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Duma on May 17, 2019, 09:34:55 pm
... or whether they jet off to find some holiday grades in Rocklands...

Not in the new guide...


although Pinotage has gone up to 7C
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 17, 2019, 10:06:16 pm
Don’t understand what you mean Tim. Being strong for the bodyweight or having a low bodyweight for the strength are both basically the same thing.

That Korean bloke that recently appeared on legendary feats, doing the “ILV” hangs off BM smalls...he has a BMI of <17. Nibile proved that he wasn’t that strong, just mostly light. (Do legendary feats dream of fat blokes pulling tractors?)

Are you saying that getting strong is over rated but being light isn’t?

I understand how either in isolation is insufficient to climb an 8 but not sure why you like one bit but not the other.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tim palmer on May 17, 2019, 10:21:55 pm
No all I meant is that having a normal bmi (rather than an extremely low one) is good, regardless of climbing
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tim palmer on May 17, 2019, 10:24:52 pm
I was basically just trying to say something nice about the whole endeavour.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: measles23 on May 17, 2019, 10:35:27 pm
including whether the person is willing to drive out to blackwell dale in the cold and wet umpteen times to dry holds by the road

What kind of dick would do that??  :whistle:
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Nibile on May 18, 2019, 07:12:55 am
All of this strength correlation business is surely all utter nonsense in the manner in which it has been sold.
Is it the manner in which it has been sold or the manner in which people want to see it?
I'll say it again and again: it's not predictive, it's the other way around, but, let's be honest with ourselves, everyone loves to know that they have "8b fingers", myself included and foremost (I want 9a fingers though).
Then putting in the time to climb one is another matter as the same people know well.
Evribudy wanna be a budybuilder, but don't nobody wanna lift heavy ass weights.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Nibile on May 18, 2019, 07:17:47 am
That Korean bloke that recently appeared on legendary feats, doing the “ILV” hangs off BM smalls...he has a BMI of <17. Nibile proved that he wasn’t that strong, just mostly light.
Hey I get what you mean, but I didn't want to prove a point, I just got psyched and wanted to try.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 18, 2019, 07:51:43 am
I’m really glad that you did Nibs. Meant to wad you for it at the time. A lot of people talk about whether x or y is impressive in absolute or relative terms but few are willing to put it to the test. I salute you for it!
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tim palmer on May 18, 2019, 10:21:18 am
Is it the manner in which it has been sold or the manner in which people want to see it?
.......
Evribudy wanna be a budybuilder, but don't nobody wanna lift heavy ass weights.

I thìnk it is a bit of both, obviously people can pay money for what ever they want but by selling this idea aren't lattice saying that it works, ie  we can make you "8b strong" and it will mean something?

I think the problem is everyone is lifting these heavy ass weights, and it is a peanut in comparison to the effort required to get good at climbing
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: jwi on May 18, 2019, 10:22:47 am
If it was easy to be as strong as Nibile and as light as Jongwon at the same time, I would climb very difficult routes.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: user deactivated on May 18, 2019, 10:26:40 am
https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/05/18/a-brief-message-from-the-team/
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: tim palmer on May 18, 2019, 10:41:43 am
If it was easy to be as strong as Nibile and as light as Jongwon at the same time, I would climb very difficult routes.
I am sure you would but not as hard as jongwon as he has also developed the requisite skill to do what he does
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Nibile on May 18, 2019, 12:18:19 pm
Whoever thinks to be able to climb a certain grade because he or she matched that score on a Lattice Edge, is delusional.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Nibile on May 18, 2019, 01:00:48 pm
I’m really glad that you did Nibs. Meant to wad you for it at the time. A lot of people talk about whether x or y is impressive in absolute or relative terms but few are willing to put it to the test. I salute you for it!
Hey cheers beast!
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: abarro81 on May 19, 2019, 09:15:47 am
I think the problem is everyone is lifting these heavy ass weights, and it is a peanut in comparison to the effort required to get good at climbing

I can assure you that I at least am lifting no heavy ass weights.. with my fingers or anything else
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Murph on May 19, 2019, 03:29:30 pm
By “everyone” I presumed Tim meant punters like me Alex, rather than a “somebody” like you.

The equivalent Ronnie Coleman quote for climbing would be something like “everribudy wanna be a wad but ain’t nobody wanna learn how to climb”. Or something.
Title: Re: Power Club 479 6th May -12th May
Post by: Sasquatch on May 21, 2019, 07:25:04 pm
Its a measurement for relativity.  If you've got weak ass fingers for the grade and climb xyz, then you've got other attributes that are compensating. whether that be other strength aspects, technique, Anti-grav suit, etc, the point is that you could benefit from getting stronger fingers, as they are "relatively weak". Conversely, if your fingers are relatively strong for the grade, then you're likely missing something else and your finger are compensating.  If you find that thing and work on it, you'll get better.  That's why it's only one aspect of a robust assessment. 
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