UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: User deactivated. on January 07, 2024, 10:23:39 am
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Inspiration thread.
What are some of the best lines in Europe?
Rules: photos, videos or links must be posted along with the name of the problem, location and grade. Bonus points for reviews or anecdotes relating to the climb / area.
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Obviously it has to be something at the Tor.
AFAIK this is an as-yet-unclimbed linkup. I've mentioned it to people who are into Tor linkups but it hasn't piqued any interest. They've been more than capable of climbing it (I'm certainly not), so presumably they have just been too overawed by the majesty of the line.
It's https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/revelations-15490 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/revelations-15490)
but once onto the slabby bit, going onto the wall of
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/brazen_strumpet-94392 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/brazen_strumpet-94392)
when that gets to the tufa of the Prow, joining that for
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/the_crucifixion-70912 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/the_crucifixion-70912)
If a pebble was dropped from the summit of the Tor it would take that line. It misses out the rests at the Revelations belay and at the nesting hole on the Prow because the climbing doesn't lead past them, not because of any contrivance. It has an amazing variety of styles of climbing. I guess it would only be 8b+. Everyone get going!
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Not exactly what I had in mind...
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Obviously it has to be something at the Tor.
AFAIK this is an as-yet-unclimbed linkup. I've mentioned it to people who are into Tor linkups but it hasn't piqued any interest. They've been more than capable of climbing it (I'm certainly not), so presumably they have just been too overawed by the majesty of the line.
It's https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/revelations-15490 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/revelations-15490)
but once onto the slabby bit, going onto the wall of
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/brazen_strumpet-94392 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/brazen_strumpet-94392)
when that gets to the tufa of the Prow, joining that for
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/the_crucifixion-70912 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/the_crucifixion-70912)
If a pebble was dropped from the summit of the Tor it would take that line. It misses out the rests at the Revelations belay and at the nesting hole on the Prow because the climbing doesn't lead past them, not because of any contrivance. It has an amazing variety of styles of climbing. I guess it would only be 8b+. Everyone get going!
Sounds like it might interest Paul Preuss?
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Not exactly what I had in mind...
More like this?
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/a7/8e/ba/a78eba1352f9482011e52f6cc6ee685b.jpg)
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Tom et Je ris, Verdon.
(https://www.onsight.com.au/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/722-D0179-e-2.jpg)
Photo by Simon Carter
Access from above, hard to find slogging down the slope, easy to identify from the other side of the river.
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Kingfisher, Lofoten
(https://27crags.com/photos/209041)
Photo Jonas Paulsson, who also wrote the first exhaustive guide book for bouldering on Lofoten
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Tom et Je ris, Verdon.
Amazing photo!
There's a great write up about that route too at https://steve-mcclure.com/articles/116-tom-et-je-ris (https://steve-mcclure.com/articles/116-tom-et-je-ris)
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I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.
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Careless Torque isn't even the most striking standalone arete at Stanage!
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Careless Torque isn't even the most striking standalone arete at Stanage!
Would that be https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_popular-104/the_hatchet-73825#videos (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_popular-104/the_hatchet-73825#videos)?
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I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.
Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny
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Kingfisher, Lofoten
(https://27crags.com/photos/209041)
Photo Jonas Paulsson, who also wrote the first exhaustive guide book for bouldering on Lofoten
Does this work?
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/276232?fm=webp&time=1463749516&dpr=2&w=768&sharp=7&s=8f1fa476096b790acd8159d2c9eb521c)
If not: https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=276232
Another contender: Un poco loco, 8b in Montserrat, very few bolts (courtesy of Alex Huber in the shape of his life). Very long. Overhanging arete on a freestanding pillar in a stunning location. To the left is Lourdes, of the same grade, but with more reasonable distance between the bolts.
https://vimeo.com/212735329
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I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.
Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny
Jesus that's going on the to do list! What is it? (Please don't be 8B)
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/averstal_magic_wood-8438/the_wizard-410338 well within your capabilities
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I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.
Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny
Jesus that's going on the to do list! What is it? (Please don't be 8B)
The Wizard, Magic Wood. 7C
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I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.
Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny
No I’ve only ever climbed at Stanage 1 time.
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I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.
Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny
No I’ve only ever climbed at Stanage 1 time.
I'm gonna (almost) second Carlos here. Having only seen that Magic Wood 1 in that photo it looks ok. Easy wall to left of it and above a river. Careless is a very good line on both a macro and micro scale. Stand right below it and look up and it has a lovely sinuous curve of perfect grit. Although not overhanging it is very ships prow like - the highest point of the boulder, with the roof at the bottom. A decent landing but the ground does then drop away making the line look and feel even more imposing. Positioned looking out over the moor below down to the Hope Valley - It visible from miles away. I guess I'm also tied to the history and the climbing on it which are both also great.
I don't think I've seen or climbed a better arete on grit or in Font, and again drifting away from purely the 'best line' bit but the two best bouldering areas in Europe are Font then Grit, and the best lines are aretes so...
I thought Andy's suggestion was pretty banging.
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I don't think I've seen or climbed a better arete on grit or in Font, and again drifting away from purely the 'best line' bit but the two best bouldering areas in Europe are Font then Grit, and the best lines are aretes so...
....Malc's then ;)
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La Merveille (https://bleau.info/merveille/296.html) 8A+ at Cuvier does it for me. Straight up line, bit of height, established by the legend Marc le Menstrel. Phwoar!
(https://bleau.info/images/stephan.denys/Merveille.jpg)
https://vimeo.com/44066011
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Careless Torque isn't even the most striking standalone arete at Stanage!
Literally just opinion innit. Not sure why everyone has to be so combative on here all the time ffs :lol: what’s your suggestion then Nick?
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Honestly I think that Careless Torque as a line (as a boulder problem I don't know I've never done it and never will) is definitely one of the best in the UK and therefore one of the best in Europe.
As for other amazing ones, I did a 6A arete in font last October that looked sick. Can't remember the name though.
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Note the title says 'lines' (plural) - it wasn't intended to be a competition for first place! Could it be changed to 'Very good lines in Europe'? There will be lots, but that's great. More inspiration please.
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No idea about best, but my all time favourite line is Reservoir Dogs E8 7a at Widdop https://vimeo.com/163840362
But growing up nearby, I'm definitely bias towards the place.
Partage 8A+ is another all time favourite. Couldn't find a picture of someone on it from the best angle, but it's obviously the left arete here https://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQjGRCeC0G8/maxresdefault.jpg looks infinitely better in person.
Careless torque is wasted on the peak ;)
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DNA looks very impressive when you stand under it. It must be the best line of the very hardest routes. Other than that Bibliography is a nice blue streak, much as its easier neighbour as well.
Teplice has some striking lines. I was told, in no uncertain terms, to not try Tsunami
(https://wspinanie.pl/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/sebastian-czechowski-tsunami-teplice2.jpg)
Tsunami has a grade that somehow is supposed to translate to 7b+. I can do that. However, later I saw a video of Ondra power-screaming and sketching between bolts on the only onsight of the thirthy year old route
On the same trip, I got spanked on Udolni on Hlaska, here is the top half
(https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5516ac30e4b0c99d03d2b4ad/1434712350550-GE35XLX8BWJIUS6Z8AQ9/20150530-DSC_1113.jpg)
For longer routes, I imagine that something in the Dolomites has the best line?
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Partage! Thanks you. Just spent 20 mins trawling bleau.info trying to find it.
I know it sounds a bit MAARGRET, but there was a vid a few hears back of El Mocho climbing a great looking arete at Font too. Pretty high (length of prob, not him).
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Partage! Thanks you. Just spent 20 mins trawling bleau.info trying to find it.
I know it sounds a bit MAARGRET, but there was a vid a few hears back of El Mocho climbing a great looking arete at Font too. Pretty high (length of prob, not him).
Misericorde 7C+?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMD8kAaW_Mg
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Curveball suggestions, but I stood below these two the first time I ever went bouldering outside and was pretty gobsmacked.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_2OTUy_c-oQY/TOEpVC0GECI/AAAAAAAACEg/a3Vqd8hk-e8/s1600/2010-11-15%2B025.JPG)
The arete to the left of the gap is Alla vill till himmelen, men ingen vill dö, which goes at 7C+ or 8A depending on who you talk to. To the right of the gap is Caspersens arete, 7A+.
In Kjugekull (south-east Sweden), which is one of the places I've bouldered that I'd least recommend due to the sharpness of the rock, but these two have always stuck with me for how good they looked on that first day out, and still look now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uh9aYCo4fFc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVgEAX3BHF0
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Misericorde 7C+?
That's the viper. Thank you. Actually looks almost doable compared to Partage and Merveille.
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I'm going with Careless for grit boulders. I haven't seen a better line in Font either, although agree with Misericorde and Partage are pretty damn inspiring.
Tsunami has a grade that somehow is supposed to translate to 7b+. I can do that. However, later I saw a video of Ondra power-screaming and sketching between bolts on the only onsight of the thirthy year old route
Memory is pretty sketchy, but didn't Leo H do it twenty years ago? Think there was a video, but google not throwing it up.
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No idea about best, but my all time favourite line is Reservoir Dogs E8 7a at Widdop
I'm psyched to try that one! Have you been on it?
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Not quite as good as some already posted, but this is a very striking arete I came across recently. No Picnics 7C+, Val Bavona.
(https://i.ibb.co/brrLM9d/Capture4.png)
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Careless Torque isn't even the most striking standalone arete at Stanage!
Literally just opinion innit. Not sure why everyone has to be so combative on here all the time ffs :lol: what’s your suggestion then Nick?
Relax man, wasn't meant to be combative, sorry you took it so.
At Stanage I think Unfamiliar is incredibly inspiring.
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/159955?fm=jpg&time=1585903759&s=23726f17654d415280e8026342304e39)
And the obvious
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/44574?fm=jpg&time=1565712154&s=f9f69150429bcb77d9b7703b02f4658f)
Would second Reservoir Dogs.
(https://wspinanie.pl/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/sebastian-czechowski-tsunami-teplice2.jpg)
Wow!!
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I remember when I started bouldering and I was looking into the hardest things in the world, just curious as to what the limits of the discipline were, and I saw the Sisu Project
https://images.app.goo.gl/kTKpN6LEXsBKGoLy9
It really does look quite beautiful to me. The mysterious future of bouldering? Impossible? Who knows. But its undoubtedly a line, up that big overhanging rounded groove
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I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.
The Arete, seawalls in the Avon. Lung full of car fumes, cant hear yourself think and a hand full off crumbly crystals. Does it get better? :whistle:
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Biased but Electric Avenue, Skälefjell Bohuslän
https://www.thecrag.com/photo/2879553303
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For longer routes, I imagine that something in the Dolomites has the best line?
I’m gonna do something very unusual for me and disagree with jwi.
I find that limestone very, very seldom has the most aesthetic lines (tufas excepted) combined with good quality rock and atmosphere/view. Amazing routes in the Ratikon and Wendenstocke but the lines I’ve seen, while logical, are not particularly aesthetic.
I’d have thought the “best” long routes in Europe would be on granite. The traverse of the Cham Aiguilles is a good looking line but that’s prob cheating.
Probably the most impressive pure lines, in my mind, would be some of the stunning couloir and ice lines on the granite mountainsides in the Mt Blanc massif.
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Probably the most impressive pure lines, in my mind, would be some of the stunning couloir and ice lines on the granite mountainsides in the Mt Blanc massif.
I can't think of a more aesthetic line in the Mt Blanc massif than the Walker spur. You climb the easiest/safest way up that region of the face (the tallest bit too) and pop your head over the top at the summit.
By comparison, to me, the couloir lines seem more like sneaking around the side (I'm not saying they aren't awesome though).
PS I feel bad enthusing about Alpine climbing. Alpine climbing is bad. It kills people.
(https://www.caingram.info/Europe/Mblanc-pix/Grandes_jorasses_fb_2.jpg)
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PS I feel bad enthusing about Alpine climbing. Alpine climbing is bad. It kills people.
But at least it's just what LH89 was after, along with link-ups at The Tor :lol:
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I can't think of a more aesthetic line in the Mt Blanc massif than the Walker spur.
There’s a lot of sneaking around on the Walker and the rock is, in places, terrible. But it’s certainly an immaculate feature.
I’d say the West Ridge of the Salbitjen is a high quality line, feature and the rock impeccable. But, I wouldn’t say it’s the best line though i can’t quite put my finger on why.
PS I feel bad enthusing about Alpine climbing. Alpine climbing is bad. It kills people.
Ageing kills people.
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Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7B0UcO1F6cw/VCxH5jv_gJI/AAAAAAAAB1s/Lm6pQoSoq_M/s1600/Brid%2BKlina%2Bline.jpg)
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There’s a lot of sneaking around on the Walker and the rock is, in places, terrible. But it’s certainly an immaculate feature.
I remember Kristian complaining that the rock on the upper section of The Cruxifiction at the Tor was really chossy and me saying that it enhanced the situation up there much like on the upper sections of the Walker Spur.
I guess nowadays climate change means that what were mixed sections may now be exposed as abject rubble though (on Grandes Jorasses not the Tor).
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PS I feel bad enthusing about Alpine climbing. Alpine climbing is bad. It kills people.
But at least it's just what LH89 was after, along with link-ups at The Tor :lol:
You say that jokingly, but the alpine ones are definitely the sort of thing this thread was intended for! Tor link-ups not so much.
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I remember Kristian complaining that the rock on the upper section of The Cruxifiction at the Tor was really chossy and me saying that it enhanced the situation up there much like on the upper sections of the Walker Spur.
My god, is this a parody. Truly there is no discussion topic where the Tor can't be shoehorned in
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It's the routes equivalent of when most bouldering threads deteriorate into Leeds-Bingley circle-jerk about rules / grade hair-splitting on some particulary localised lowball green morpho scrittle-fest on Yorkshire grit ;D
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If routes are in too, let me also suggest this absolute classic https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/marmolada-2645/attraverso_il_pesce-187792#overview
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A few UK trad ideas:
Devil’s Slide, Cenotaph Corner obviously, America pitch 2, The Cullinan, Rainbow of Recalcitrance, Dalriada, Appointment With Fear, Requiem, ‘The Great Escape’ pitch 2, Divided Years, any corner/arete in the big quarry at Nesscliffe… and the Cuillin Ridge traverse (easiest on the list, but also the hardest).
Don't know much European trad. Prinzip Hoffnung looks alright, not going to get lost on that one.
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No idea about best, but my all time favourite line is Reservoir Dogs E8 7a at Widdop
I'm psyched to try that one! Have you been on it?
Nah, thought about it in the past, but I'm concerned that if I do have a properly look, it might set off a chain of events in which I suddenly find myself half way up it on the sharp end :devangel:
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No idea about best, but my all time favourite line is Reservoir Dogs E8 7a at Widdop
I'm psyched to try that one! Have you been on it?
Nah, thought about it in the past, but I'm concerned that if I do have a properly look, it might set off a chain of events in which I suddenly find myself half way up it on the sharp end :devangel:
Fairly steady to the gear, maybe E5/E6. Then a very hard boulder problem, 7C/+?
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Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7B0UcO1F6cw/VCxH5jv_gJI/AAAAAAAAB1s/Lm6pQoSoq_M/s1600/Brid%2BKlina%2Bline.jpg)
This may have just become a new life goal.... The low 7s and high 6s at Paklenica are savagely graded, how bad is this one?
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Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7B0UcO1F6cw/VCxH5jv_gJI/AAAAAAAAB1s/Lm6pQoSoq_M/s1600/Brid%2BKlina%2Bline.jpg)
This may have just become a new life goal.... The low 7s and high 6s at Paklenica are savagely graded, how bad is this one?
Don't know, I have had a hard enough time on the 6's!
The steep face left of the arete is 8c, onsighted by Adam Ondra a few years ago. Nuts!
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No idea about best, but my all time favourite line is Reservoir Dogs E8 7a at Widdop
I'm psyched to try that one! Have you been on it?
Nah, thought about it in the past, but I'm concerned that if I do have a properly look, it might set off a chain of events in which I suddenly find myself half way up it on the sharp end :devangel:
Fairly steady to the gear, maybe E5/E6. Then a very hard boulder problem, 7C/+?
Horrendous up to the gear, then a nice boulder problem.
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It's hard to get a good pic of the route, because it is deep in the Samson Canyon, but Les Naufragées in Verdon could also be mentioned for short multipitch routes.
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Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7B0UcO1F6cw/VCxH5jv_gJI/AAAAAAAAB1s/Lm6pQoSoq_M/s1600/Brid%2BKlina%2Bline.jpg)
I might have done this one. I did a route, with a name a bit like that (25+ year memory), up that bit of rock. At the time I thought it got 7b/+ but it felt very stiff to me (I was probably on the route form of my life at this time, 1998 or so) Did various other big routes on the same trip from Triglav, Cham, Dollies and the only one which compared in line was Squirrels Ridge (Spigolo Scoiattoli) on the cima ovest but rock quality, climbing (and difficulty) were all way down.
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Arete cosqmiue, 8a
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f1/db/38/f1db38d885f512cad74815e2ed2c4439.jpg)
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Horrendous up to the gear, then a nice boulder problem.
:lol:
I always presumed it was going to be fully lank dependent having seen that video of Will Atkinson on it and rumours of pebbles snapping etc. I'm keen for a look at some point Liam.
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Partage! Thanks you. Just spent 20 mins trawling bleau.info trying to find it.
I know it sounds a bit MAARGRET, but there was a vid a few hears back of El Mocho climbing a great looking arete at Font too. Pretty high (length of prob, not him).
Misericorde 7C+?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMD8kAaW_Mg
I'd forgotten about this vid. Classic 2000s fashions. The ending is great, who is the Brad Pitt esq fell runner? I recognise him somehow but can't put a name to the hair.
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Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7B0UcO1F6cw/VCxH5jv_gJI/AAAAAAAAB1s/Lm6pQoSoq_M/s1600/Brid%2BKlina%2Bline.jpg)
I might have done this one. I did a route, with a name a bit like that (25+ year memory), up that bit of rock. At the time I thought it got 7b/+ but it felt very stiff to me (I was probably on the route form of my life at this time, 1998 or so) Did various other big routes on the same trip from Triglav, Cham, Dollies and the only one which compared in line was Squirrels Ridge (Spigolo Scoiattoli) on the cima ovest but rock quality, climbing (and difficulty) were all way down.
Nice! 7b+ in the old guide; 11 pitches of which one is 7b, two are 7b+. Description just says 'the climb is fine and airy' which I think is Croatian for 'desperate and terrifying'?
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The ending is great, who is the Brad Pitt esq fell runner? I recognise him somehow but can't put a name to the hair.
It's up there with Ned Attempts a New Line At Stanage and the "we're into showboating now Ryan?" video
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Surely if we're talking about great lines on chossy low quality rock then Skeleton ridge has to be on the list? It's got everything! (Apart from being at the tor)
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_needles-2342/skeleton_ridge-38248#overview
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Arete cosqmiue, 8a
Fucking hell, that is perfect.
I'm keen for a look at some point Liam.
The other E8 i'm keen for is Charlie Don't Surf at Hawkcliffe. Amazing line - compression prow, into an arete, into face climbing. I put a rope down it once did it in two halves very quickly, but that was last summer. From memory it breaks down into something like a long f7A to the peg (no fall zone), then another f7A to the top.
Can't find a good photo, but here's a video still from: vimeo.com/97551841
(https://i.ibb.co/qMYvGzN/Capture7.png)
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I always liked the fading groove feature on Early Riser at Earl, shame the hard part is in a scary place. And the great looking Heartbeat City at Rylstone. Both candidates for a "tactical" approach for the strong boulderer about town.
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Arete cosqmiue, 8a
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f1/db/38/f1db38d885f512cad74815e2ed2c4439.jpg)
Came on to post exactly this. My goodness just look at it!
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On grit, Bloodrush is not to be overlooked ...
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/382549?fm=jpg&time=1645359659&s=61c6e9fa948e1657772d45e5ca2f44bb)
... but I think the Appointment with Fear prow is the most impressive piece of grit that I've seen.
Happily, both climb absolutely brilliantly.
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Reading this thread you would swear Northumberland didn't exist.
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Or Scotland. The Essence would have to be a contender for one of the best lines in Europe. Both due to the aesthetics of the climbing itself and the location.
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Or Scotland. The Essence would have to be a contender for one of the best lines in Europe. Both due to the aesthetics of the climbing itself and the location.
Come on, you know the score. First we need 17 pages of arguing over the best line on Grit (and therefore Europe ::) ) before we can even consider branching out to other counties, lands etc....
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Don't know, I have had a hard enough time on the 6's!
I remember narrowly onsighting a 6c+ down in the main gorge, when I was going well. It felt like one of the hardest & best onsight climbing experiences of my life - way harder, and more technical, than many 7bs and 7b+s I've done in Spain. I guess by 8c the grades are probably more settled across europe? (except or some old school sandbags).
I would expect that Anika Kuk route to still feel hard, even for 7c!
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Or Scotland. The Essence would have to be a contender for one of the best lines in Europe. Both due to the aesthetics of the climbing itself and the location.
I did mention Malc's (jokingly) earlier. and Dalriada has had mention :)
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A quarter of my trad suggestions were in Scotland, though sticking mostly to routes I've actually seen/tried/done. In the County, Transcendence/Purgatory prow does look impressive.
Sticking with the trad: hard famous lines at Annot (Le Voyage), Cadarese (Tribe), Valle Orco (Greenspit)… is there anything for mortals?
Likewise, Profile Wall – Firefox (E7)?
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Split Arete, Polldoo Glen
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/167518?fm=jpg&time=1600610232&dpr=1&w=800&sharp=7&s=3b5806409d8800757da3deb32957b878)
Holy Jesus wall, Owey Hard to capture in a photo, but an immaculate piece of rock in an awesome location
(https://i0.wp.com/emmafcownie.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Holy-Jesus-Wall.jpg?w=750&ssl=1)
Solidarity in Glenmacnass, probably the best Arete in Wicklow, can't find a decent pic
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Spindle at Fairhead looks to fit the wow factor for boulders
https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=292459
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A quarter of my trad suggestions were in Scotland, though sticking mostly to routes I've actually seen/tried/done. In the County, Transcendence/Purgatory prow does look impressive.
Sticking with the trad: hard famous lines at Annot (Le Voyage), Cadarese (Tribe), Valle Orco (Greenspit)… is there anything for mortals?
Likewise, Profile Wall – Firefox (E7)?
I haven't been myself but there's supposed to be loads of good stuff at reasonable grades in Annot, I know a few friends who've been and had a great time in the E3-6 range. Good cracks apparently.
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All the routes on Kilt Rock (Scotland's Devil's Tower?) look cool, even without Kilt Falls next door. Grey Panther looks the coolest though https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kilt_rock_staffin-685/grey_panther-5469#photos. Not done it though, Fultonius? GazM?
Also Arrow Route on Sron na Ciche. looks utterly unlikely at the grade, but the rock quality makes it possible. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sron_na_ciche-780/arrow_route-7739#photos and getting off the Cioch via Integrity is an amazing day out (we approached vie Cioch West but that wanders a bit).
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The lines in Teplice (Czech) are amazing. These photos don’t really do it justice.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453407776_e413119c0e_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453405871_c6ddb9aa7b_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453394606_bf03487b9e_n.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453363211_2ea59f91cc_z.jpg)
Climbing this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453846750_93eae2bbcb_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53452483782_06704c60b3_z.jpg)
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Czech sandstone looks incredible, shame it’s death
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It's up there with Ned Attempts a New Line At Stanage
Is this the one where he launches from the opposite side of the pit to try and catch the jug on Brad Pit and stacks it? Can't seem to find it on YouTube.
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Yeah, I tried to find it but it's no longer available on YouTube unfortunately
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Probably the most impressive pure lines, in my mind, would be some of the stunning couloir and ice lines on the granite mountainsides in the Mt Blanc massif.
I can't think of a more aesthetic line in the Mt Blanc massif than the Walker spur. You climb the easiest/safest way up that region of the face (the tallest bit too) and pop your head over the top at the summit.
By comparison, to me, the couloir lines seem more like sneaking around the side (I'm not saying they aren't awesome though).
PS I feel bad enthusing about Alpine climbing. Alpine climbing is bad. It kills people.
(https://www.caingram.info/Europe/Mblanc-pix/Grandes_jorasses_fb_2.jpg)
Surely the peutery integral has to be one of the most fascinating lines in the mont blanc massive? Looking at the ridgeline from the torino hut at sunset is just amazingly beutiful. Even if its really chossy, just for that skyline it has to be climbed.
Talking ice/mixedlines the supercouloir on tacul has to be one of the most obvious lines in the massive.
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For a lower grade classic, the Devil's Slide on Lundy is an amazing piece of rock. Really cool feature. Would love to go and climb that one day.
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/70234?fm=jpg&time=1561585852&s=5b0de97b62b33784eaceb48f3c81bc03)
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It's pretty fun, Lundy is worth a trip, one of the essential great British climbing adventures.
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Also Arrow Route on Sron na Ciche. looks utterly unlikely at the grade, but the rock quality makes it possible. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sron_na_ciche-780/arrow_route-7739#photos and getting off the Cioch via Integrity is an amazing day out (we approached vie Cioch West but that wanders a bit).
I was wondering about adding Arrow Route to the thread but not really sure if it can count as a great "line". Great route (well, did the direct and that was), great rock, great sparsity of gear, great atmosphere/location, great day out... but great line? You'd struggle to spot the line with ease from a far, just the slab as a whole.
Shame we couldn't get on Integrity afterwards, it was absolutely soaked. Looks cracking. Did Wallwork's instead, which was equally wet but at least easier, shame it wasn't quite such high quality.
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A few UK trad ideas:
Devil’s Slide, Cenotaph Corner obviously, America pitch 2, The Cullinan, Rainbow of Recalcitrance, Dalriada, Appointment With Fear, Requiem, ‘The Great Escape’ pitch 2, Divided Years, any corner/arete in the big quarry at Nesscliffe… and the Cuillin Ridge traverse (easiest on the list, but also the hardest).
Don't know much European trad. Prinzip Hoffnung looks alright, not going to get lost on that one.
Rainbow of Recalcitrance is a great shout. Often the great lines are aretes, I think it's that bit more special when a different feature stands out so obviously.
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/228105?fm=jpg&time=1584449047&s=3e82094251f5a5be464c282b88c7abed)
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/228819?fm=jpg&time=1557755878&s=4b08005bb17986f21b1e2254e74afb1a)
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Couple of 'The Great Escape' (p2) on Arran. Perfect fine-grained granite wall into a slabby crux, then layback the monster flake.
(https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5828ae35f7e0ab81d3ef4a6e/1479305481962-C814CQO8SHLR3M5CTWW9/image-asset.png)
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0632/2697/0371/files/RAY2294_Great_Escape.jpg?v=1674128994)
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That's pretty damn stunning!
We've had the arete discussion on UKB before; the absence of an obvious line can also be a 'line' IMO.
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I was wondering about adding Arrow Route to the thread but not really sure if it can count as a great "line". Great route (well, did the direct and that was), great rock, great sparsity of gear, great atmosphere/location, great day out... but great line? You'd struggle to spot the line with ease from a far, just the slab as a whole.
Shame we couldn't get on Integrity afterwards, it was absolutely soaked. Looks cracking. Did Wallwork's instead, which was equally wet but at least easier, shame it wasn't quite such high quality.
I think that's the beautity of it. Same can be said of Devil's slide. It's a cool rock feature, but there are actually 3 fairly independent lines on it (I did all 3 on the same day, great day out, but painful on feet). It's the unlikelyliness of climbing Arrow route that makes it, IMO .
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Always liked the look of this for a fairly modest grade boulder - Special Edition
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brione-10082/special_edition-387800#photos&gid=1&pid=1
This looks incredible to me but is a fair bit harder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kBy-4pbMLY
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I was wondering about adding Arrow Route to the thread but not really sure if it can count as a great "line". Great route (well, did the direct and that was), great rock, great sparsity of gear, great atmosphere/location, great day out... but great line? You'd struggle to spot the line with ease from a far, just the slab as a whole.
Shame we couldn't get on Integrity afterwards, it was absolutely soaked. Looks cracking. Did Wallwork's instead, which was equally wet but at least easier, shame it wasn't quite such high quality.
I think that's the beautity of it. Same can be said of Devil's slide. It's a cool rock feature, but there are actually 3 fairly independent lines on it (I did all 3 on the same day, great day out, but painful on feet). It's the unlikelyliness of climbing Arrow route that makes it, IMO .
Yeah I suppose that's reasonable. In which case, it's a strong contender.