UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on April 25, 2022, 08:39:06 am
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Following the "how do you eat your plate of dog turd??" thread, and on the basis that Rules And Regulations in climbing can actually be a good thing - not just for discouraging headpointing easy routes bollox, but also for nudging climbers towards climbing a bit of a rock in a way that might initially seem arbitrary and artificial but actual results a clearly more worthwhile, attractive and engaging experience, irrespective of grade and numbers.
So, post your best examples!! You know the sort of stuff, where missing out the side of a crack makes a lovely arete line, or missing out and arete makes a delectable face climb, or pulling on via a specific start makes a proper flowing sequence. Note the thread title waffles on about aesthetics and all that hippy crap so nothing from Pennine limestone nor Almscliff please.
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Can we include problems where they had a good sequence that was later found to be BGFBB with a much shitter sequence? AKA Pongo (original) at Dumby? I love a good jam when I can get one, but the 7B+ thumb stack vs the old 8A beta is just rancid.
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Everything on Pisa Wall at Pex.
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Ok i'm game ;D
How about "Barry Manilow" at Ruthven, do all the moves but Top Out using a proper press mantle rather than the Quarts edge{which is miles away if your a short arse}.
Doing it this way makes for a much better problem.
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Everything on Pisa Wall at Pex.
I came here to say South West Overhang at Pex.
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nor Almscliff please.
Like all the best rules, I'll ignore this one.
Exorcist on Demon Wall Roof has a simply brilliant flowing sequence of moves to round the corner and avoid the butch thuggery of Dolphin Belly Slap.
Early 2020 I decided to work Exorcist as training for Low Rider; ended up fully committed to projecting the former and did the Ear variation of it over a bunch of sessions. Still haven't been back to the latter!
In a similar vein, Tourniquet at Kentmere is essentially a bad sequence on a 7A+, but what a sequence!
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I came here to say South West Overhang at Pex.
I came here to boast that I once did Crescent Arete one-handed and it's ace.
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It’s easier to think of my own probs that fit this, given that I made up the rules on them:
Double Bum, Gardoms – Eliminate on the basis of an excluded flake hold. Turns a dull line which would be barely worth recording into a very fun board style slap to a horizontal pinch.
Most things on the Birdsong face at Bradley Edge. Lines tend to have specified start holds. Makes sense as the landing slopes upward behind you, so pure sitters could start high and miss out really good moves, e.g in the case of Punch and Judy.
Reborn Again, Bradley Tor - Eliminate in that it climbs a feature as a prow, which can be dynoed around on the left. The prow way feels uncontrived and is IMO a much more interesting climb than the original.
Oh, What a Feeling, Wharncliffe - Possibly the most rulesy eliminate I’ve put up. But creates an interesting and intense roof into overghanging wall sequence, which could otherwise be bypassed via a pedestrian lip shuffle.
Sweet Chariot, Filthy Q - Low variant eliminate linkup. Again the rule makes for a wild and fairly unique sequence requiring a double swing into distant toehooks.
Other folks' probs:
Purple Haze lip variant, Rivelin - Harder and way more interesting than the standard version.
Technical Master LH sans crack, Millstone - Very interesting and involved, as opposed to a simple layback.
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missing out the side of a crack makes a lovely arete line
The Balls Test at Baslow is a good example of this.
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Westfield Story, Burbage West. - Specified sequence eiminate version of the easier Ronside Force It.
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My favourite is Wilton Eliminate - you eliminate all the holds at Wilton and drive to Yorkshire instead.
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anything which involves a campus move
eg. Bullworker with no feet to start
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obviously
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkMnpM3V2es
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this
https://youtu.be/t7w9FHsCAkA?t=101
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Sean's Problem Variant 1 + Mono
A truly desparate affair at Minus 10. Not only must you do Sean's which is hard enough, but you are required to eschew use of all fingers on your right hand bar the middle finger on shallow dish 38.
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missing out the side of a crack makes a lovely arete line
The Balls Test at Baslow is a good example of this.
It is indeed. Great choice and a lovely problem.
Some of Bonjoy's choices sound fine.
Pisa Wall is a disgrace, it has the aesthetics of my toilet bowl the morning after a curry.
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Mike's arete at Blackstone edge
Trying to span the block is quite the reach, whereas eliminating the left arete makes for some great moves on nice holds
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Ignoring the non-Almscliff criterion, but Crucifix Arete SS without the break is a good moves on unlikely holds, and reasonably aesthetic if you ignore the polish and grockles. The link from the reverse of Crucifix Low Traverse is even more arbitrary and all the more wonderful for it. I feel it's one of the most sustained and exacting sequences I've ever done outside Malham or Kilnsey - but also an indefensibly contrived arse drag eliminate (and backwards!) combined with another eliminate.
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I don't think I mentioned this - at 95.2
probably the quickest drying 6A in the forest (which makes it special for a start)
arete only for hands, feet on anything
it's got a different number on the red circuit now, I think
https://vimeo.com/161230986
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Harold's wall (and the sit start) at Helsby. Lovely climbing up a scoop with slopey footholds, only if eliminating and not standing on the large ledges out right nearly the full way up.
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Ignoring the non-Almscliff criterion, but Crucifix Arete SS without the break is a good moves on unlikely holds, and reasonably aesthetic if you ignore the polish and grockles. The link from the reverse of Crucifix Low Traverse is even more arbitrary and all the more wonderful for it. I feel it's one of the most sustained and exacting sequences I've ever done outside Malham or Kilnsey - but also an indefensibly contrived arse drag eliminate (and backwards!) combined with another eliminate.
Agree, the basic up problem is wonderful. Not done the traverse but sounds good! I've done it from the central sitter though which is similar and brilliant.
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Zero Effort Climbing 8b in Pfalz. Has an incredible sequence with a massive figure 4 lock off from a huge jug to a sinker 2 finger pocket and then yard into more good holds. The only problem is that when I tried it I found a sequence using a flake 40cm to the left which makes it a full grade easier. All the germans were ignoring it and looked very offended when I suggested the obviously necessary downgrade. The flake is even heavily chalked in this video but he cruises right past it!
https://youtu.be/g6VgE396gyM?t=135
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Harold's wall (and the sit start) at Helsby. Lovely climbing up a scoop with slopey footholds, only if eliminating and not standing on the large ledges out right nearly the full way up.
Happy to see this mentioned, both lovely problems. Even more eliminate ignoring the obvious good pocket on the left in favour of the crimp :)
The stand always felt stiff at 6A, spent all my time put it together after getting through the sit quite quickly!
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I don't think I mentioned this - at 95.2
probably the quickest drying 6A in the forest (which makes it special for a start)
arete only for hands, feet on anything
it's got a different number on the red circuit now, I think
https://vimeo.com/161230986
I see you that, and raise you this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZgt3k5cWBw
Also Harold's Wall is genuinely good yes, and a clear and simple rule.