UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Pantontino on June 23, 2020, 11:19:04 am
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Caff did this brilliant wall problem first thing this morning. Here's a pic I took of him trying it the other day:
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/C%20y%20Undeb%20Wall%201%201200%20cloned_0070.jpg)
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Looks good, but couldn't be hooped with that walk in.
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You do have to walk in for about 200m from Pen Llyn. That's the old road which is blocked off for cars.
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Fuck me the hardship. I think I know the place, seem to recall punting there back in the day when weather was shite, some probs done by famous climbers I'd never heard of.
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When I lived in Cwm-y-Glo and didn't have a car I did loads of stuff around Fachwen, in the days before pads. Probably did this in me trainers and forgot all about it....
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Amazed that stuff of this quality and standard hasn't been done before. Is this wall not really climbed on normally?
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Also, does this thread sound the death knell for NWB? :wavecry:
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When I lived in Cwm-y-Glo and didn't have a car I did loads of stuff around Fachwen, in the days before pads. Probably did this in me trainers and forgot all about it....
I've given you a default credit for all the new stuff - seemed only fair.
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Amazed that stuff of this quality and standard hasn't been done before. Is this wall not really climbed on normally?
Fachwen and Clegir were just out of vogue - people dabbled but no-one really took it seriously. Lockdown has just meant that everything is getting re-assessed and scrutinized.
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Also, does this thread sound the death knell for NWB? :wavecry:
No not at all - I'm just dead busy at the moment. Normal news reports will return, probably in the autumn.
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Dead busy documenting new problems by the sound of it! What can you say about N.Wales, it's the gift that keeps on giving.
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Dead busy documenting new problems by the sound of it! What can you say about N.Wales, it's the gift that keeps on giving.
I know, just when you think there can't be any more of this stuff, there just is, albeit often hidden in the trees or obscure places that no-one normally goes to.
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Jammy bastards. I am constantly exploring, and consistently finding fuck all.
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Keep hunting Chris, it's out there somewhere...
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Jammy bastards. I am constantly exploring, and consistently finding fuck all.
I realise this probably sounds trite given what you have experienced, but keep looking. I have a friend who has covered more miles than is conceivable in search of new stuff and consistently drawn a blank...until last week when he struck gold. And I mean serious 'gold', major stuff. Keep the faith.
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I've scoured the coast from where I live north, and as far south as the Highland Boundary Fault, south of which is shite. Found a few gems such as this spot https://vimeo.com/131336572 while out walking with baby in carrier many years ago, but only went back recently to develop it. Inland it's mostly forestry land and farmer's fields. When I'm out running or cycling i do habitually check anything marked as outcrop or quarry on OS Maps, but it's almost always choss, tiny or evergreen. I've thought steeper watercourses is next, or start running in the lesser known Angus Glens.
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I thought there was some decent bouldering in the Glen Clova region. Is that area too far for you?
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He's already put up at least one good new problem there...
The future might lie in esoteric base-of-crag lines at Cambus O May and Vat O Burn....maybe....
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I thought there was some decent bouldering in the Glen Clova region. Is that area too far for you?
Yeah, done a load of developing there, and still a fair bit to do, but it's about an hour and a half from me, be nice to have some bits closer to home. One of the "Angus Glens" mentioned.
I've walked the length of Vat Burn, there are maybe half a dozen of the starts of routes that would be good probs, but the things marked as boulder probs are pretty log. There's Craig Corn Arn too, wish the people who have developed up there would write it up properly, i think some probs have been "discovered" over half a dozen times. Never bothered with CoM quarries.
For all I know there could be gems in Fetteresso Forest, but there are so few trails for such a big area you would never know, and could die from being torn to death ploughing through brambles, bracken and gorse and still find shit. Might be a dozen Farr boulders lurking out there waiting for the foresters to reveal, Strathsiders got lucky there.
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Feels like that in Dumfries and Galloway too. You just know that there are amazing boulders hidden in the trees, but not much chance of finding them until the trees are cleared.
My father in law is convinced there is some house size block (probably of granite) not far off the Raiders Road near Newton Stewart. I was hoping for some sort of Scottish Bowderstone but he can't remember exactly where it is. ;D
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Rodma says he's heard similar. It's an even bigger untrodden area. Time for ebike exploration, Carlisle Slapper style?
Ben More Blocks are the future of Scottish Bouldering though.
(Apologies for straying off topic, split?)
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(Yeah I think it is definitely time for a topic split to discuss mythical hidden scottish bouldering.
I'd be interested to know what the Ben More blocks are. Is that Ben More up in Sutherland? Not too far from Reiff in the Woods I guess. My brother and a friend did some exploring just to the south Arkle and said there are impressive looking (sandstone?) blocks. Although they'd need cleaning and apparently in summer it would be bad for midgies and ticks. SO probably more of a winter venue.
Edit. Actually no I was thinking of Cul Mor. Not Ben More.
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No, it's the Ben More near Crianlarich, pg 115 in latest guide.
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Ah ok. Cheers Chris.