UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on October 24, 2006, 11:00:04 pm
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Just got off the phone from Ding Dong. The boy has really gone and done it now:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=211
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Hmmm... I'm figuring a solo would be a more accurate description. (No mats, see.) Grand effort though, good to see that Katz' pulling-off of a sicca'd hold a few years back hasn't stopped ascents.
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The non use of mats was not a style statement; he just didn't have any with him.
Ding Dong reckoned the new method was very finger friendly (which sounds great), but I seriously doubt the mooted V8 grade. Throbber told me he thought it was harder than Bungles Arete, albeit with the original painful method.
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that looks well brown.
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Cool, I'd always fancied the untouchables, and even if it turns out to be a bit harder than V8 it's still a bit more amenable than I was imagining (not sure what I was imagining though). Think I need a Wales trip in the next few weeks. Are the bolts coming out (which would mean that it would need to be ground-upped in the future), or will they stay in?
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I'd have thought the bolts would stay in until it's been done ground up, if they were to be removed
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I can assure you, if they get removed they will return. This is a route. Not the biggest, but a route nonetheless. Feel free to solo it (or boulder it out with or without mats) but don't deny others the opportunity to use a rope.
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Agree with both of Houdini's comments. A grand effort sans mats. E9 7a? ;)
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ha ha. go ding dong
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does this mean everything that gets solo'ed is now a boulder problem?
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Yep, Mount Everest. Chilling V2. Seeps a bit, like...
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Only Dai kamikaze would dare claim everest as a boulder problem... ;)
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Not sure I follow the logic of your question Jim. It's a micro route with a good landing and, save for one slightly wiggy 6b move, all the hard climbing is pretty close to the ground.
Most micro routes are 'potential' boulder problems, are they not? Technology (pads) and a general increase in climbing standards means that what was once a 'route' for one generation, can become a highball boulder problem for another generation.
That said, I wouldn't particularly advocate taking the bolts out because someone (presumably Houdini ;)) might want to climb it how it was originally done.
And BTW, there's no way that Everest is V2, UK tech 2a at the most!
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there's no way that Everest is V2,
yes, if you use si o'connor holds and sequence.
sorry guys, i couldnt resist.
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there's no way that Everest is V2,
yes, if you use si o'connor holds and sequence.
probably make it V16 but the holds are around the back and he did it whilst no one was looking
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Twas an awesome effort I can't open the link so don't know what you wrote simon. But he removed the quickdraws having worked it on a rope, so he couldn't reverse down.
Awesome effort, I wish I wasn't filming as I only got to see it through a view finder!
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there's no way that Everest is V2,
yes, if you use si o'connor holds and sequence.
probably make it V16 but the holds are around the back and he did it whilst no one was looking
During the recent fire fight between Chinese border guards and Tibetan refugees.
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There are better contenders for fixed gear removal in Wales. Jiggit E6 6C RAC crag left hand is ripe for the taking. 20 year old pegs. Recommended this a while back. I've been there recently and discovered that the landing is far flatter than I remember. Go get it!
Actually I've no interesting doing the Untouchables. But to take the bolts out would be to irrevocably change the proposition (and the history) for others who would like to try. It would also smack of hubris. I promise I will replace them if they are removed. It is not the same as doing a line without rusty unreliable ancient pegs.
EDIT - For rantage.
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Sorry, I wasn't trying to suggest that the bolts come out, I was genuinely interested cos I'd like to go and do it. With the bolts in.
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just looked up this route in the slate guide. gives it 6m long. now i don't happen to have my sextant on me, but it looks bigger than that in the photos, unless mr dyer is a midget and the spotter is stoood further away than he looks.
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Nice one Neil!
Now....can I have my guidebook back please? ;)
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Dave, it's words like Sextant that make life worth living. Top Notch!
S'OK Ru. The bolts wil always be there. You will like it. Bouldery/cruxy. Fine line & fine moves.
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eh up rich, got your guide safe here!
(http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/cutenews/data/upimages/short!_copy.jpg)
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Pantontino! Quick! You're being robbed by a tramp!
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watch it 'oudini! i'll have my sextant on ya!
(http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/cutenews/data/upimages/Shorter!.jpg)
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haha....classic!
just nip up to Scotland and hand it over then mate? I bet you could carry that up on your back quicker than most people could drive.
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hey ding dong it says on UKclimbing you've done font 8b, which one you understated beast?
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not yet mate, but we've time.
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Directors into Upper Cut anyone? ;)
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Directors into Upper Cut anyone? ;)
Whats condition is the cave in at the moment?
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The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion. A news story should report fact and should be objective. It seems to me that Mark Reeves has written an entirely subjective account of Neil Dyer and what happened. I don't understand why. The facts of the situation are more than impressive!!! Just why all the social commentary was included I don't know.
Adam; there is a thread entitled Parisella's Cave condition report which MIGHT hve the answers you are looking for, it is here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5483.msg89884/boardseen.html#new)
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Directors into Upper Cut anyone? ;)
Whats condition is the cave in at the moment?
Check the Parisellas conditions thread and all shall be revealed.
The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion. A news story should report fact and should be objective. It seems to me that Mark Reeves has written an entirely subjective account of Neil Dyer and what happened. I don't understand why. The facts of the situation are more than impressive!!! Just why all the social commentary was included I don't know.
Adam; there is a thread entitled Parisella's Cave condition report which MIGHT hve the answers you are looking for, it is here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5483.msg89884/boardseen.html#new)
I dunno Bungle i reckon Ding Dong deserves a good bumming ;)
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The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion. A news story should report fact and should be objective. It seems to me that Mark Reeves has written an entirely subjective account of Neil Dyer and what happened. I don't understand why. The facts of the situation are more than impressive!!! Just why all the social commentary was included I don't know.
Adam; there is a thread entitled Parisella's Cave condition report which MIGHT hve the answers you are looking for, it is here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5483.msg89884/boardseen.html#new)
On many parts I would agree with you here, the piece I wrote originally read something like 'Neil Dyers solo Untouchables in lunch hour'. I was ask to provide some back ground for the item. I personally think Neil one of the nicest people in climbing and has a great approach to climbing and deserves reconigtion for his many achievements.
I will apologise to Neil when I see him, or if you check in here 'sorry neil, I genuinely thought you had climbed Font 8b', now your just a punter.
:guilty:
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"doylo is the perverts climber, you don't want to know what he got up to in his lunch break."
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The news report that has appeared on UKclimbing is very badly written in my opinion
Factual inaccuracy aside, I liked the report, a bit of background about people is always good to read.
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I will apologise to Neil when I see him, or if you check in here 'sorry neil, I genuinely thought you had climbed Font 8b', now your just a punter.
:guilty:
Well he could if he put his mind to it, thats a cert!
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watch it 'oudini! i'll have my sextant on ya!
(http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/cutenews/data/upimages/Shorter!.jpg)
I will apologise to Neil when I see him, or if you check in here 'sorry neil, I genuinely thought you had climbed Font 8b', now your just a punter.
:guilty:
Well he could if he put his mind to it, thats a cert!
Even though he is only this big!