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21
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing
« Last post by Bonjoy on Today at 10:28:58 am »
Cross posted with JB. I'd go along with everything he's said there.
Taking advantage of a precedent of getting away with something in the past is not a great strategy in this instance.
22
news / Re: There’s a bloke fighting this weekend
« Last post by Dac on Today at 10:25:28 am »
Thanks for that, I’d always assumed it was 1 point scored for each ‘good’ blow landed, I’d never noted how the points were nearly always 10 and 9!

It’s curious how so little is gained in points from a knockdown, seeing as in essence that’s practically the aim of the match. A fighter can knock down their opponent, and that opponent only be saved from a knockout by the referee intervening and giving a standing count; but loose 2 other rounds by the narrowest of margins and it’s all for nothing. (But then the scoring in the bouldering still confuses me).
23
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing
« Last post by Bonjoy on Today at 10:24:41 am »
Is there a record for the area then of fixed/insitu gear that has been agreed? And do we know if any of the fixed gear in discussion was ever agreed anyway. There are a couple of very old pegs at the top (top in a sporty sense, end of the clean overhanging rock, where it transitions into a chossy easier angled groove) of EOTT. These are where the bolt was that I saw chopped . The bolt backed up the pegs which are now pretty poor. I think one has no eye and the other was shit.
On a separate but semi-related topic, has EOTT had many on sights? Steve? Jacopo?
To my knowledge (and this agreement pre-dates my time in this role) the only request that has been made to install fixed gear has been an after the fact request (by me)to retain bolts on the line which they had complained about us not seeking permission to bolt. Understandably they refused to allow these to stay. This was also because they were very visible from the main path. Beyond that no developers have chosen to ask either directly or via the BMC before bolting, so no other requests have been put in. Some bolts (not many) have slipped in under the radar over the period of the agreement, which suggests the owner doesn't have a comprehensive log of fixed gear and/or doesn't check it regularly. I think it would show bad faith on the part of climbers to use this as rationale to keep pushing until we receive another complaint though.
If climbers collectively decide that something other than the historical collection of fixed gear is desirable it could be requested as an update to existing access arrangements. Up to a point landowners are in favour of well maintained safety equipment, if it has low visible impact and doesn't pose a risk to the general public.
24
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing
« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 10:21:16 am »
Ethics aside, gear precedents don't matter here. The BMC access team have a good idea what is in place and what would be problematic. Contact us! This area has every conservation designation under the sun, which means any work carried out needs prior approval from Natural England. The landowner has to do this for all sorts of work, they therefore cannot allow, or even turn a blind eye to, the use of power drills as climbers see fit. As noted above, this is not to say it won't be allowed - if it is agreed first and the rationale is clear it often will be. But unauthorised drilling will be viewed very dimly indeed.

These requirements exist elsewhere, and climbers have often got away with ignoring them. But that isn't a trend that is going to continue, and this is one location where it absolutely can't. As I said above, look at what has happening in the US. Broadly, climbing activity is generally fine with most conservation landowners. But bolt placement generally isn't, and often they have a legal requirement to manage it. If we can't show that we can behave by the rules, the rules will be both tightened and enforced.
25
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing
« Last post by stone on Today at 09:57:13 am »
Its pretty clearly not an adventurous location. Its an extremely busy walking and picnic area as you say, with dogs, prams, selfie sticks etc, at most 15/20 mins from the parking (haven't been in ages so might be wrong). I think some limited fixed gear up the back and a bolt belay to facilitate the route being worked with minimal faff is a decent compromise.
Doesn't the fact that it is a pinnacle with no bolt ladder up it make it a rare adventurous location? The fact that it is possible to get to without a hike/float-plane/rabies-jab/whatever makes it all the more precious doesn't it?

To me, trad climbing charm is dependent on not being a contrived avoidance of easier options. That's reflected in the stars routes get awarded too isn't it? 

Replacing bad abseil pegs with stainless bolts makes perfect sense though. Can't any top-rope rig-up be backed up to such an abseil point?
26
shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!
« Last post by tomtom on Today at 09:37:28 am »
It is indeed the diff - fuck! Good diagnostics TT.

So on the face of it I have two options I think. Option 1: drive the car until it goes bang, then scrap it. Option 2: source used diff online and get it fitted. I can find something that looks like it would fit on ebay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226120027494?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-166974-033325-9&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=226120027494&targetid=2276391439863&device=m&mktype=pla_with_promotion&googleloc=9046603&poi=&campaignid=21069693970&mkgroupid=165332018528&rlsatarget=pla-2276391439863&abcId=9387975&merchantid=114897452&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeIAhYaVfOVQxJyVyRVZPn13pZ-iK6NI2Qia0YqajrHqIWlAL7EvtwBoC5ToQAvD_BwE) but it does rather look like it's been salvaged from the Titanic. The mechanic I spoke to about this was dubious it was worth it due to the general rust below the car, but I am quite unwilling to commit to car searching again, especially after it just passed it's MOT...

Anyone know roughly how much labour is involved in replacing a rear diff? I'll obviously ask the mechanic as well (who is very good and I am confident he won't rip me off).

To top it off while it was on the ramp the mechanic pointed out a lump in a tyre, so I've got to get one of them as well...

Only just logged in - sorry my inkling was right :(

Probably too late - but first option would be to check the oil level/lubrication in the diff (this really depends on how the diff is made/put together though!)..

Christ - just looked at the ebay link! That diff looks like its been at the bottom of the sea for 100 years!!! (might be fine though etc..)

I'd wager theres a couple of specialised scooby breakers/salvage places though which may be a good place to start..
27
MoonBoard / Re: Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights
« Last post by teestub on Today at 09:36:03 am »
The one at Bradford is very prone to condensation, and this also seems to impact the wood holds quite randomly, some would be totally fine, others fully soaked. Not sure if it’s to do with the shapes cutting into the ply layers or something but very odd.
28
MoonBoard / Re: Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights
« Last post by tomtom on Today at 09:33:24 am »
Mine have always been fine. From experience the best way to get feedback/gently raise a complaint is via the facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/moonboard

Good luck - sounds like a manufacturing issue to me - plenty on that FB group with more knowlege...
29
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing
« Last post by Ed booth on Today at 09:32:10 am »
Is there a record for the area then of fixed/insitu gear that has been agreed? And do we know if any of the fixed gear in discussion was ever agreed anyway. There are a couple of very old pegs at the top (top in a sporty sense, end of the clean overhanging rock, where it transitions into a chossy easier angled groove) of EOTT. These are where the bolt was that I saw chopped . The bolt backed up the pegs which are now pretty poor. I think one has no eye and the other was shit.
On a separate but semi-related topic, has EOTT had many on sights? Steve? Jacopo?
30
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing
« Last post by northern yob on Today at 09:24:40 am »
It will become less popular if it gets banned….. we’ve engaged with the landowner and have an existing agreement which allows us access, I’m not against open channels and pushing for more, but maybe after being busted for ignoring the previous agreement isn’t the best time, and doesn’t put us in the best position to be negotiating….
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