UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Dingdong on March 30, 2023, 09:40:22 am
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Will be visiting and staying in Poolewe for a week next month and weather permitting I’d love to get out and explore the local bouldering. Will be going torridon on the way up but would love to get on stuff nearer to Poolewe/Loch Maree etc - if anyone has some good beta please let me know :)
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I don't think there's heaps to go at close to Poolewe and Loch Maree, which is slightly surprising given the volume of cragging in the area.
If I remember correctly all the bouldering on the peninsula between Gairloch and Dundonnell is summarised on a single page of the most recent Bouldering in Scotland book. Which isn't to say there isn't more to sniff out.
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There isn't loads of developed bouldering immediately around there but lots of potential for sure (In around Stone Valley Crags?). There's some good highballs (marked largely as trad routes) and some easy bouldering at Mellon Charles/Mellon Cliffs just up the road from Aultbea. The sport at Loch Maree and Goat Crag is good.
Such a beaut spot there, enjoy!
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There are some decent looking boulders beneath Carn Mor if you're feeling really intrepid ;)
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There isn't loads of developed bouldering immediately around there but lots of potential for sure (In around Stone Valley Crags?). There's some good highballs (marked largely as trad routes) and some easy bouldering at Mellon Charles/Mellon Cliffs just up the road from Aultbea. The sport at Loch Maree and Goat Crag is good.
Such a beaut spot there, enjoy!
Some good beta thanks! Maybe I’ll bring some brushes and clean some stuff then, shame there isn’t more established bouldering around there as it looks like loads of good potential
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Maybe I’ll bring some brushes and clean some stuff then, shame there isn’t more established bouldering around there as it looks like loads of good potential
It's partly the nature of the geology, a lot of the crags around there are on domes of gneiss, which means acres of exposed rock but doesn't often lend itself to good bouldering opportunities (with some exceptions).
There is sandstone on the two big peninsulas either side of Loch Ewe, you might have better luck there.
I tried to develop a venue nearby recently, sadly it's mostly choss, but the one worthwhile line has been fluffed for somebody. Probably about 7B+. I'm failing to do an Instagram link but if you're interested you can find it with my name.
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Yeah Mellon Charles is one of those Loch Ewe sandstone spots!
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Maybe I’ll bring some brushes and clean some stuff then, shame there isn’t more established bouldering around there as it looks like loads of good potential
It's partly the nature of the geology, a lot of the crags around there are on domes of gneiss, which means acres of exposed rock but doesn't often lend itself to good bouldering opportunities (with some exceptions).
There is sandstone on the two big peninsulas either side of Loch Ewe, you might have better luck there.
I tried to develop a venue nearby recently, sadly it's mostly choss, but the one worthwhile line has been fluffed for somebody. Probably about 7B+. I'm failing to do an Instagram link but if you're interested you can find it with my name.
Cheers andy, sent you a message on Instagram!
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Lovely area. No idea on bouldering, but do some hillwalking e.g. An Teallach and try to get hold of a canoe or kayak.
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Lovely area. No idea on bouldering, but do some hillwalking e.g. An Teallach and try to get hold of a canoe or kayak.
Aye my partners family go every year for two weeks, we'll definitely be doing some hillwalking and kayaking on loch maree ;D
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The developed Loch Maree boulders are on UKC, but apparently loads more to do there. Hamfunk might pitch up and give you some more beta. There is tons of excellent quality rock in the area though.
Sadly Richie's excellently named problem is not actually that close to Poolewe
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/coire_nan_arr_boulders-21391/pushmi-poolewe-445207
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Richie has done some bouldering up at Stone Valley, but not a huge amount. There's a few Rob Thomas problems in that neck of the woods too. The Loch Maree bouldering Chris mentioned is worthwhile. There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun, and Big Mac's boulder in one of the Coires under An Teallach for the super keen. There's a few other bits around Gairloch mainly developed by Pierre Fuentes that seem pretty decent. There's a load of secret Cunningham family spots around that neck of the woods too, if you got hold of them they might be happy to divulge but I have no beta on their whereabouts. Thomnomnom went looking once but had mixed results.
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There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun
Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.
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For anyone who doesn't mind a four hour walk-in:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1luoN7LM0-7vGZVIAsgq1-ZttKJ1b2Yvp/view?usp=sharing
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There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun
Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.
Do you mean the Goat Boulder behind the JMCS hut?
There's a couple of worthwhile problems and a few old projects. Not as good as it looks initially but quick & easy access. The boulders by the council yard in Dundonnell are very small and dirty but it might be possible to ferret something out.
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There is Zero climbing in the North West of Skagland. Do not waste your time, all you will find is a vast nothingness filled with tiny biting insects and small roving bands of actors recreating well known pertinent monologues from infamous 90s Scottish movies :P
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There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun
Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.
Do you mean the Goat Boulder behind the JMCS hut?
There's a couple of worthwhile problems and a few old projects. Not as good as it looks initially but quick & easy access. The boulders by the council yard in Dundonnell are very small and dirty but it might be possible to ferret something out.
Ah yeah, that's the one. It's in the guidebook and everything isn't it? Must not have been climbed on for a while, even in the sheltered undercuts there was no sign of chalk.
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There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun
Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.
Do you mean the Goat Boulder behind the JMCS hut?
There's a couple of worthwhile problems and a few old projects. Not as good as it looks initially but quick & easy access. The boulders by the council yard in Dundonnell are very small and dirty but it might be possible to ferret something out.
Ah yeah, that's the one. It's in the guidebook and everything isn't it? Must not have been climbed on for a while, even in the sheltered undercuts there was no sign of chalk.
Yes, fully described in Ian T's Ullapool Bouldering guide from a good few years back.
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Will be visiting and staying in Poolewe for a week next month
What dates are you there? Might be in the area next week.
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If you're psyched for an exploratory day check out this place 57.731634,-5.465975
I've done a lot of Google earth based virtual exploring in Scotland and this is the boulderfield with the a largest blocks I've come across. Some of the blocks are insanely big and there's quite a lot. Looks like half a mountain collapsed. Long walk in from Poolewe but looks like a stunning walk. Would be great to have someone take a closer look.
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/27630495918_e0b3f05864_o_d.jpg)
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This gives a better idea but I can't
embed the image. Just look at the size of the trees for scale! https://images.app.goo.gl/7vGbhVzh5CYgcZzA6
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My photo of the same (also can't seem to embed):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ThQDjo3ExkO-m14lbUhzMXXybeKHUEF6/view?usp=sharing
The striking arete is supposed to be a good HVS but other than that the whole mountain has only a few scrappy scrambly things and winter routes.
A bit of sweet-talking the estate and a pad-laden canoe up Fionn Loch would be the knowledge!
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I’m gonna be up from 20th of May for a week if anyone fancies a little adventure up!
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/27630495918_e0b3f05864_o_d.jpg)
Is that the crag with The Beanstalk on it - Beinn Airigh Charr?
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Yes, Beanstalk is the arete.
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A bit of sweet-talking the estate and a pad-laden canoe up Fionn Loch would be the knowledge!
Or an e-bike.
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I dunno, looks like you'd want a good few pads...though a bouncy e-bike would certainly be welcome for getting in to that area. I bruised my coccyx riding in there on a hardtail with a heavy pack on.
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Weather permitting me and the gf are gonna cycle in but i'll likely be taking my medium moon pad and scoping out some of the smaller lines. and documenting any bigger ones for another trip.
Anyone have good beta on where to rent E-bikes near there?
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Be surprised if you can one one to rent any closer than Inverness
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Be surprised if you can one one to rent any closer than Inverness
Ullapool is the closest place renting E-Bikes but its a good hour each way from Poolewe... may need to bite the bullet and do it anyways,
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I am surprised then! Nice place to visit, but it's a fairly long and tedious drive to get there, very scenic though.
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A few more pics of the Beinn Airigh Charr blocks courtesy of my Dad: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EP8YRSR7tmoRQr2K8. I could be keen to head in in May.
I've got a worrying number of pins for boulders in Fisherfield from him that make that jumble look "accessible". Gleann na Muice is apparently packed with boulders (that would be an hour plus on the other side Shenavall). Others like these blocks on Beinn Dearg Bheag would be a 10k bike ride and another hour or two walking https://photos.app.goo.gl/KQyR2Mw4XePas1B3A
Loch Ghiubhsachain looks good too: https://youtu.be/XVJjE5w6v5E
A bit more accessible and looking amazing and spicy would be the Sea Dildo (8A): https://www.instagram.com/p/Cana3RXNE76/ I went for a look once but didn't find it, but have since heard it's "out on the peninsula just along from Opinan slabs".
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A few more pics of the Beinn Airigh Charr blocks courtesy of my Dad: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EP8YRSR7tmoRQr2K8. I could be keen to head in in May.
I've got a worrying number of pins for boulders in Fisherfield from him that make that jumble look "accessible". Gleann na Muice is apparently packed with boulders (that would be an hour plus on the other side Shenavall). Others like these blocks on Beinn Dearg Bheag would be a 10k bike ride and another hour or two walking https://photos.app.goo.gl/KQyR2Mw4XePas1B3A
Loch Ghiubhsachain looks good too: https://youtu.be/XVJjE5w6v5E
A bit more accessible and looking amazing and spicy would be the Sea Dildo (8A): https://www.instagram.com/p/Cana3RXNE76/ I went for a look once but didn't find it, but have since heard it's "out on the peninsula just along from Opinan slabs".
Weather permitting we’ll head in and if we do I’ll drop you a dm on here to see if you’re free. The more pads the merrier! Some of the lines look big!
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UKB Fisherfield meet, taking inconvenience bouldering to new levels :thumbsup:
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A bit more accessible and looking amazing and spicy would be the Sea Dildo (8A): https://www.instagram.com/p/Cana3RXNE76/ I went for a look once but didn't find it, but have since heard it's "out on the peninsula just along from Opinan slabs".
Just had a look at Calum Cunningham's Instagram page. This one:
https://www.instagram.com/p/ChFijHcj1fc/
is above Talladale. The main line is on the face to the left of where he is in the photo. Slanting cracks to 2/3 height then...? Need to get up there with an ab rope. Not too bad a walk from the Eilean Ghruididh car park. Hard to see on Google Maps, but it's about here:
57.661024, -5.474405
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A bit more accessible and looking amazing and spicy would be the Sea Dildo (8A): https://www.instagram.com/p/Cana3RXNE76/ I went for a look once but didn't find it, but have since heard it's "out on the peninsula just along from Opinan slabs".
That's interesting, I've explored the headland between Mellon Udrigle and Opinan, but not beyond.
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UKB Fisherfield meet, taking inconvenience bouldering to new levels :thumbsup:
Inconvenience bouldering is where it's at. Sorry, couldn't resist. :chair:
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Whoa there, don't beat me with a folding chair, I'm all for it.
Not personally, I do my share of long walks as it is, but in principle.
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The folding chair was being aimed at my own head by way of apology for my terrible attempt at humour.
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Ah. In that case it was so bad I still don't get it :lol:
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Giving this a bump. We’ve managed to source 2 E-Bikes from Gairloch, around 30 minutes from where we’re staying and will doing the approach on Tuesday if anyone wants to come along or meet us there. Excited to see what’s about!