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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by thomas røllins on Today at 07:37:04 pm »

Possibly off-topic, and perhaps this has been mentioned elsewhere, but I thought it was mildly interesting that Dave Macleod contradicts himself here , around 30-45 secs in, by stating that Echo Wall (which elsewhere he has argued may "only" be E10) is in fact a bigger deal than Rhapsody (accepted at E11 both by Dave and by subsequent ascentionists). 

Re E-grades more generally, to me the only really interesting question is whether the climbing world beyond UK / Ireland will adopt them in any meaningful way?". The rational expectation is surely "no".

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by ToxicBilberry on Today at 07:30:48 pm »

Grades aren't as useless or mystical as you and Adam seem to be implying though. There are certain grades everyone could reasonably say they could climb every route /problem of that grade, regardless of style etc. The way you two are using them is not the way most others do, as Barrows had alluded to. They use it as an indication of overall difficulty and WSS, whilst an edge case, is clearly not an E4 in the common sense metric. It fails the smell test.

Grades aren’t mystical or useless at all, at no point have we said that.

And yes wss isn’t E4 it’s 7C in my opinion, it used to be E4 for the reasons discussed already, it’s a fact… it was given that! We have tried to explain why….

Grades are definitely mystical, that’s why they fail the smell test of the hardcore materialist.

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by northern yob on Today at 07:01:07 pm »

Grades aren't as useless or mystical as you and Adam seem to be implying though. There are certain grades everyone could reasonably say they could climb every route /problem of that grade, regardless of style etc. The way you two are using them is not the way most others do, as Barrows had alluded to. They use it as an indication of overall difficulty and WSS, whilst an edge case, is clearly not an E4 in the common sense metric. It fails the smell test.

Grades aren’t mystical or useless at all, at no point have we said that.

And yes wss isn’t E4 it’s 7C in my opinion, it used to be E4 for the reasons discussed already, it’s a fact… it was given that! We have tried to explain why….

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣

« Last post by Davo on Today at 06:57:39 pm »

I’ve not actually bothered to read the BMC accounts before but that is a vanishingly small amount of actual information and gives no indication of what money was actually spent on.

I assume that the 2023 accounts are going to have much more detail?
Dave

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shootin' the shit / Re: Photos on Apple devices

« Last post by CrimpyMcCrimpface on Today at 06:52:31 pm »

I'm no expert either (blind leading the blind) but as far as I know all of your photos on your apple devices will be saved to your a cloud via your account and therefore accessible from any device once you log into your Apple account. Saves manual transfer. You may have to buy extra storage to do this, I think I pay £0.99/month for about 200GB, but it does mean your photos are not just stored locally on the device. I've used 112GB of my allowance and have 13,000+ pictures and videos, if that helps to imagine how far 200GB goes.

Regarding All photos, I would think that will always contain all photos, but you can just navigate your folders from Albums on the bottom nav bar and then scroll sideways to see your albums

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by northern yob on Today at 06:25:10 pm »

I’d pay good money to see the reactions of the locals in Czech when some British guy rocks up and tells them that route x couldn’t possibly be E1/5.10/6a as he always can climb that grade anywhere…..

Also as I keep saying it’s the same with any system…. Tell Americans their grades are fucked cos offwidths fuck it up. The majority of sport climbers can’t climb 5.11 ow does that mean that crack wads who only climb in the desert should expect to climb 5.13 in the RRG because all the 5.13 crimpers cant move on cracks….

The point Adam/jb and I are trying to make is E grades work as well if not better than any other grade system.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: BMC Resolutions shout out 📣

« Last post by Offwidth on Today at 06:19:18 pm »

I think that's a pisstake of a response. I could have swallowed not accepting the subsidiary motion. Not agreeing to the financial resolution is a joke and pretty hard to defend.

I naively expected support being possible for the financial motion but I wasn't aware then that the 2022 data just wasn't in a good enough state to provide anything like the same information we intend to publish for 2023 (where all the really problematic loses were). The headline 2022 accounts are available on the links below.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=2244
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=2243

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by thunderbeest on Today at 06:18:56 pm »

One of the problems from an outsider is the focus put on the E part. Rhapsody E11! But I wouldn't have a clue what the tech grade actually is on it, event though I've read quite some things about it, you never see it mentioned in any headlines.

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 05:58:50 pm »

I think WSS at E4 is fine. When the difficulty is in a short boulder problem close to the ground the E grade is always brutal. It's always had to be that way to stop boulderers going round thinking they've done some big E number.

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by northern yob on Today at 05:53:59 pm »

Really….. so what grade can you climb any route at..? Regardless of style, I think our only point is it’s way under your max grade… and that doesn’t mean grades are broken, it’s more people’s ego’s are inflated. Go to Czech or Yosemite, and tell me you can confidently climb anything, literally anything at 5.10 (a grade well below your max) and we will point you at some stuff and pull up a chair….
Climbing is diverse… grades are diverse. I genuinely find it fairly ludicrous that anybody could expect to climb E4 anywhere… even ondra respects what E4 could mean in Czech, more people should be like him and get over themselves…