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the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: BB on October 29, 2010, 11:49:00 am

Title: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: BB on October 29, 2010, 11:49:00 am
Hit me up with some beta on approach shoes. As always, beta on bargain bin replacements would be appreciated!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 29, 2010, 12:10:18 pm
What do you want them for? Approaching crags? Or wandering round font? Or for easy bouldering/ soloing?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: duncan on October 29, 2010, 12:46:01 pm
Walshes, designed to stop you sliding around wet grassy slopes.  I did the Cuillin ridge in a pair and they climb up to VS/HVS just fine. 

As luck would have it I have a pair of size ~10s for a small donation (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15873.msg276852.html#msg276852).
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: BB on October 29, 2010, 01:56:27 pm
What do you want them for? Approaching crags? Or wandering round font? Or for easy bouldering/ soloing?

Approaching crags and general wandering around, not limited to Font. Is there a specific shoe requirements for Font?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 29, 2010, 03:05:55 pm
If you're not planning to climb in them I wouldn't bother with approach shoes as such, either get some lightweight walking shoes if you're going any distance, if Caley/ Font etc I wouldn't bother with anything specific, any trainer will do.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: wiain on October 29, 2010, 04:44:59 pm
Hit me up with some beta on approach shoes. As always, beta on bargain bin replacements would be appreciated!

If you're climbing then Daescents every time. Otherwise as Johnny says most things will do for getting to roadside crags. For approaching higher crags or hillwalking  :spank: then something heavier from Sportiva/Scarpa/Boreal is good.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Jim on October 30, 2010, 12:08:00 pm
I love my guide tennies for approach/climbing in
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Muenchener on October 30, 2010, 02:49:37 pm
I use Five Ten Camp Fours for alpine scrambly stuff on rock up to about UIAA II/III, for which they are excellent. Got caught out in them last year in a big midsummer fall of fresh snow was ok, but I wouldn't want to go on hard snow in them without some kind of spikes, kahtoola crampons or similar. (The only real major flaw is that the heel is quite rounded - less than ideal for descending snow, mud, wet grass)

They are quite stiff & not super-light though - fit & feel is more like a walking boot than a running shoe. If I'm going for a day out where I don't expect to be spending much time on rock, then running shoes (my current favourite: Inov-8 310s) are lighter and more comfortable.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Muenchener on October 30, 2010, 02:53:49 pm
Walshes, designed to stop you sliding around wet grassy slopes.  I did the Cuillin ridge in a pair and they climb up to VS/HVS just fine.

Either you were off route or somebody finally decided to give the T-D Gap an honest & realistic grade
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: weakdave on October 30, 2010, 06:06:26 pm
Five ten free runners are awesome as long as its dry. They arent massively grippy on wet grass but great on everything else and I got up a HVS at Ban Y Gor in mine (and they are comfy for dog walking as wel)l!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 31, 2010, 06:18:42 pm
 :agree: my five ten free runners are great for plodding around in and doing easy stuff warming up.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SpanishJuan on October 31, 2010, 06:37:58 pm
Mens 'Finn' Shoes (http://www.naturalcollection.com/products/patagonia/patagonia-breathable-hiking-shoes/)
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on October 31, 2010, 06:44:37 pm
Don't get fiveten camp fours, they are shit. Worst crag shoe i've ever had. Almost sprained my ankle on many occaisions falling over the clumsy huge heel, and the front of the boot are worse than any normal trainiers for climbing anything technical, i.e. grit, not mountain stuff.

Guide tennies used to be awesome for climbing (especially if sized a bit snug) but wank for walking over any kind of rough terrain due to the lack of any decent underfoot support. However recently they've changed the shape of the toe to more like a conventional trainer, so i suspect they are now shit for climbing too.

If i was going out tomorrow to get a crag shoe to climb in it'd be deascents, otherwise just get whatever cheap berghaus/tnf/hitech walking trainers are on sale in the outdoor shops or tkmaxx.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on September 23, 2015, 12:35:27 pm
Fiveten seem to have ruined the Guide Tennie which leaves me struggling for approach shoes. Boulder X don't fit, I'm not sold on the Scarpas.

I've seen some of the 'das offerings but as these are online only I haven't a clue on sizing. Has anyone tried a pair? My current pair of tennie's are glued together with barge cement and may prevent my access to the USA on looks alone (no honestly, I do have enough money to support myself I just choose to bind my feet in rags)!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on September 23, 2015, 12:40:00 pm
I've some of the addidas stealth rubber coated trainer things.

As regular shoes they're OK (a bit clumpy but OK)

As approach shoes they are
(a) superb on rock as the have decent rubber, stiff soles and a compact fit.
(b) an utter crock of shit on mud/wet grass/veg ie normal UK winter underfoot conditions
(c) Uncomfortable on rough terrain as whilst they have a stiff sole - there is very little (read none) cushioning.

So for me - they work fine for padding around somewhere when warming up (and can't be arsed to put on rocks shoes) and I wear em down the boozer etc... but when I go climbing, when I get out of the car I change into some old Columbia approach shoes I have. They might be superb for your approach needs (based on a-c above) but for me they're rubbish as approach shoes...

(d) they've worn OK. 
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on September 23, 2015, 12:45:45 pm
I've got some of the stealth adidas. Worse on wet grass than normal outdoorsy trainers, but a thousand times better than Daescents on wet grass, which were frankly a liability. Very stiff, should be great for mountain scrambling. Not really tried soloing in them or owt, I think the stiffness would take getting used to on grit. I know James Turnbull did Sardine in a pair.

More than adequate for walking into Kilnsey and Longridge.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: fatneck on September 23, 2015, 12:49:55 pm
Got a pair of these bad boys (http://www.sportsdirect.com/karrimor-hot-rock-low-mens-walking-shoes-183714?colcode=18371403) a month ago and apart from the laces, they are holding up well on all terrain so far. Laces are easily replaced so not that arsed about them and for a few fuck alls I'm not complaining...
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on September 23, 2015, 12:51:24 pm
I've got some of the stealth adidas. Worse on wet grass than normal outdoorsy trainers, but a thousand times better than Daescents on wet grass, which were frankly a liability. Very stiff, should be great for mountain scrambling. Not really tried soloing in them or owt, I think the stiffness would take getting used to on grit. I know James Turnbull did Sardine in a pair.

More than adequate for walking into Kilnsey and Longridge.

I'm currently on slicks with the tennie's they're that worn. Given Nat bought here Sportivas the same week and essentially we do pretty much the same thing it's amazing the difference in wear between them.

Sizing; is it another entry to the FiveTen style lottery?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on September 23, 2015, 12:53:51 pm
I've got some of the stealth adidas. Worse on wet grass than normal outdoorsy trainers, but a thousand times better than Daescents on wet grass, which were frankly a liability. Very stiff, should be great for mountain scrambling. Not really tried soloing in them or owt, I think the stiffness would take getting used to on grit. I know James Turnbull did Sardine in a pair.

More than adequate for walking into Kilnsey and Longridge.

I'm currently on slicks with the tennie's they're that worn. Given Nat bought here Sportivas the same week and essentially we do pretty much the same thing it's amazing the difference in wear between them.

Sizing; is it another entry to the FiveTen style lottery?

Nope - made by Addidas.

Jawohl.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: danm on September 23, 2015, 12:54:25 pm
What tomtom said, although I have to say, the build quality is superb, they really are a solidly made bit of kit. In fact, they feel a bit too stiff and supportive to be a good easy gritstone shoe. They are going to need a resole long before the uppers show any sign of wear. I use mine for warming up, the pub and bimbling to and from crags on rocky paths. Had to go slightly large on the size, 44 when I'm more often than not a 43.

The problem on mud and wet grass applies to any of the climbing orientated approach shoes really. For approaching mountain crags in the UK, I've got some Sportiva fell shoes which are the absolute nuts. They weigh fuck all, have loops to clip to my harness and the rubber studs are sticky enough to feel OK on easy rock terrain. On steep grass and mud they feel like mini crampons, and they are pretty good in the snow as well (ice is a different story of course).

I prefer the dual shoe approach, as I've never found anything which works well on rock and steep grass other than a boot or walking shoe with tread and a climbing zone at the front, but these are then too stiff and heavy to comfortably clip to the harness.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on September 23, 2015, 01:01:12 pm
Sizing; is it another entry to the FiveTen style lottery?

I think they're just sized normally. I bought two pairs of different sizes then sent one back. Depends how much of a climbing fit you need.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2015, 01:06:04 pm
Fiveten seem to have ruined the Guide Tennie which leaves me struggling for approach shoes.

You mean the Insights? I quite like them?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 23, 2015, 03:30:50 pm
I have an older model of these Salomons. Dry, tough as and very secure underfoot. I'd get another pair.
http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/salomon-mens-escambia-gtx-shoe-b1222604?id_colour=3524 (http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/salomon-mens-escambia-gtx-shoe-b1222604?id_colour=3524)
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on September 23, 2015, 03:48:55 pm
I've been a big fan of Meindl over the years, and have had several pairs of Goretex approach shoes from them. When I came to replace them the 'standard' price for a decent brand of waterproof approach shoes now seems to be £120  :o

I ended up getting a pair of waterproof shoes from Decathlon for exactly 10 fuck alls. These were on sale, still a bargain at full price...
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/forclaz-500-mens-waterproof-walking-shoes-brown-id_8327927.html
No they aren't Meindl, but they are fine, comfy and cost £40 (now) not £125!

As an aside, I was impressed with the range of shoes in Sports Direct. Also worth a visit.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on September 23, 2015, 03:55:35 pm
You mean the Insights? I quite like them?

No, the updated guide tennie which look OK in photos but are actually very bulky. They also didn't feel very well made  :slap:
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2015, 04:06:25 pm
Oh OK. Our lass has them, they aren't particularly bulky, but agree about build quality.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on September 23, 2015, 04:26:34 pm
Hit me up with some beta on approach shoes. As always, beta on bargain bin replacements would be appreciated!

I have three options:

Dry approach that I might want to climb: Evolv Cruzer http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/cruzer-slate/ Lightweight, cheapish, not bad to climb in, sole of death on wet grass a la guide tennie

Wet grass/mountain route approach (Lakes/Wales): Innov8 Talons - my fell running shoe - lightweight, not good to actually climb in but great on the actual approach.

5.10 Camp Fours - I've used these for everything but they are a jack of all trades - neither great to climb in nor good on the wet grass approach of death, they're heavy and when they get wet they take an age to dry out. The new ones look even worse. They mostly get worn to walk from the car to the wall or the car to a gritstone crag for a bouldering session
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: blamo on September 23, 2015, 05:48:57 pm

Dry approach that I might want to climb: Evolv Cruzer http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/cruzer-slate/ Lightweight, cheapish, not bad to climb in, sole of death on wet grass a la guide tennie


I found these to be so lightweight that on even moderate approaches you wanted a more rugged shoe.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: duncan on September 23, 2015, 08:39:03 pm
Yeah, what is it with 5.10 ... systematically ruining most of their best products?

Charles Cole now lives in Dinosaur, Colorado and writes Astrophysics papers (http://www.skysthelimit.com/about.html).


The best approach shoes I ever had for the UK were a pair of fell-running shoes (Walshes, I'm sure Innov8s could work too) whose studs had worn a little. I had the front quarter resoled with Stealth rubber. The heel and ball of the foot was still plenty grippy on wet grass, the toe climbed like a comfortable rock-shoe. I did all the classic routes on the E.Face of Tryfan in an afternoon, the Cuillin Ridge, and Eagle Ridge followed by the five Lochnagar Munros in them. Ideal for this kind of thing.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: TobyD on September 23, 2015, 10:02:44 pm
Actual 'approach' shoes a la tennies and similar are designed for the californian approaches walking up low angle granite slabs for a few hundred feet, and and dry dusty trails. They are brilliant at this; but as more or less everone else says shite at getting to any uk crags except the ones you could walk to in a pair of £2 flip flops anyway. They do however make you look like a climber in the pub, which can be good or bad.
Also agree with the masses in that running shoes are by far the best approach shoes for the uk, i've got some asics trail shoes, gtx lined  - and been pretty water proof, comfortable rugged and light. They were about £40 in sports direct about 4 or 5 years ago and still fine.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: jwi on September 23, 2015, 10:38:34 pm

Charles Cole now lives in Dinosaur, Colorado and writes Astrophysics papers (http://www.skysthelimit.com/about.html).

:look:

Sutor, ne ultra crepidam
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: standard on September 23, 2015, 10:49:29 pm
Another "running shoes" advocate. Just bought a pair of Inov8 Trailroc 245's. Perfect.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: duncan on September 24, 2015, 07:51:16 am
Sutor, ne ultra crepidam

A load of cobblers?

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Fultonius on September 24, 2015, 08:48:53 am
I bought a pair of La  Sportiva Gandas for going to yosemite a couple of years back. They were expensive,  heavy and sweaty but they did climb and approach well,  like someone said,  on granite an dusty trails. I can't count the number of times I ended up flat on my arse on wet grass or mud. I'm amazed shoes with dimples sell in the UK!

Since then I got them resoled with a proper mountain vibram  sole. Don't climb so well but grippy as shit on a stick in all connies.

They are,  however,  even heavier than fucked now. So bad for multipitch.

A lot of my mates have innov-8s or similar and they seem ideal. Next time that's wjatwI'm going for  i'm
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on September 24, 2015, 08:55:38 am
I think what this thread is demonstrating is that you probably can't have something that is all three of the below, you can only have two:

- lightweight
- climbs well (good rubber, flat-ish sole, non-clumpy shape)
- walks well (good on mud, keeps feet dry etc)
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on September 24, 2015, 10:33:17 am
What Dave said.

As I'm mostly venturing to sport locations ATM and currently have no big trips planned I've gone for the 'das. For shoes that I'd clip to a harness (or more often than not my second) I haven't a clue what I'd buy.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: T_B on September 24, 2015, 01:58:44 pm
For shoes that I'd clip to a harness (or more often than not my second) I haven't a clue what I'd buy.

Barefoot style running shoes which weigh < 200gms seem popular with a few Guides I know. E.g. http://www.merrell.com/UK/en_GB/trail-glove-3/17571M.html?ref=barefoot&dwvar_17571M_color=J03903#q=barefoot&start=1
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: fatneck on March 29, 2016, 01:42:59 pm
Just to bump this up again as I was so impressed with the wear out of these (http://www.sportsdirect.com/karrimor-hot-rock-low-mens-walking-shoes-183714?colcode=18371403) over the last 8 months that I've just bought another pair!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on March 29, 2016, 01:50:46 pm
Just to bump this up again as I was so impressed with the wear out of these (http://www.sportsdirect.com/karrimor-hot-rock-low-mens-walking-shoes-183714?colcode=18371403) over the last 8 months that I've just bought another pair!

Hot rocks huh.... ;)
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on March 29, 2016, 03:26:54 pm
Just to bump this up again as I was so impressed with the wear out of these (http://www.sportsdirect.com/karrimor-hot-rock-low-mens-walking-shoes-183714?colcode=18371403) over the last 8 months that I've just bought another pair!

As good as they may be, Mike Ashley can suck my balls, he's not getting a penny of my money.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on March 29, 2016, 03:49:35 pm

Just to bump this up again as I was so impressed with the wear out of these (http://www.sportsdirect.com/karrimor-hot-rock-low-mens-walking-shoes-183714?colcode=18371403) over the last 8 months that I've just bought another pair!

As good as they may be, Mike Ashley can suck my balls, he's not getting a penny of my money.

I ordered something through SD last year. It still feels dirty...
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on March 29, 2016, 03:52:37 pm
I know the feeling, especially so, now I've got an email saying their website has been hacked

Quote
We are sorry to inform you that we have uncovered evidence that SportPursuit has been the victim of an attempted data hack, which may have affected a limited number of SportPursuit members. The fact that you are receiving this email means that you may be affected.

Our advice is that you remain vigilant over the coming days. Should you see any evidence of unusual activity on your bank account or credit card, you should contact your bank immediately to report this.

The SportPursuit team acted immediately to fix the problem, and the issue has been resolved. You can continue to use our site with confidence that your transactions are secure.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on March 29, 2016, 03:59:17 pm
Do you bother to carry them up the Chief or do you opt for sandals or something equally lightweight?

The 'das are still holding up well.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tregiffian on March 29, 2016, 04:16:19 pm
I heard that the hard men go in by helicopter.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: AndyR on March 29, 2016, 04:59:38 pm
Do you bother to carry them up the Chief or do you opt for sandals or something equally lightweight?

The 'das are still holding up well.
Evolv cruisers are the thing for clipping to harness.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on March 30, 2016, 11:00:07 am
I know the feeling, especially so, now I've got an email saying their website has been hacked

Quote
We are sorry to inform you that we have uncovered evidence that SportPursuit has been the victim of an attempted data hack, which may have affected a limited number of SportPursuit members. The fact that you are receiving this email means that you may be affected.

Our advice is that you remain vigilant over the coming days. Should you see any evidence of unusual activity on your bank account or credit card, you should contact your bank immediately to report this.

The SportPursuit team acted immediately to fix the problem, and the issue has been resolved. You can continue to use our site with confidence that your transactions are secure.

Are SportPursuit owned by Sports Direct/Mike Ashley now? Bugger, another company to cross off the list. I've only just realised Sweatshop (quite an appropriate name for a Mike Ashley business) is one of his.....
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: sidewinder on March 31, 2016, 03:26:12 pm
Are SportPursuit owned by Sports Direct/Mike Ashley now? Bugger, another company to cross off the list. I've only just realised Sweatshop (quite an appropriate name for a Mike Ashley business) is one of his.....
I think there was some confusion between sportpursuit and sportdirect by SA Chris, though I do know that not only does Mike Ashley own sportdirect but also karrimor and most of the other brands in there (lonsdale, no fear etc.) see http://www.sportsdirectplc.com/our-brands/sports-and-leisure.aspx and http://www.sportsdirectplc.com/our-brands/fashion-and-lifestyle.aspx for many more things to avoid
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2016, 03:28:05 pm
My bad, sorry. Either support a sweatshop, or get your account hacked. Rock / hard place.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: creedence on March 31, 2016, 03:34:52 pm
Do you bother to carry them up the Chief or do you opt for sandals or something equally lightweight?

The 'das are still holding up well.
Evolv cruisers are the thing for clipping to harness.

Been looking at the newer model of these, as they are much lighter than 5.10s for clipping to my (yeah right, my second's) harness.  Bit of a tougher build than the old ones, but still look really light.

Are they instant death on wet grass, or not too bad?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Muenchener on March 31, 2016, 04:10:55 pm
Inov8 F-Lite 195 is the shoe for near weightless harness clipping & yet not dying on the descent
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: duncan on April 02, 2016, 01:28:10 pm
Inov8 F-Lite 195 is the shoe for near weightless harness clipping & yet not dying on the descent

+1. Or one of the X-talons with a deeper stud.

Expensive, not that durable, but ideal for LH+F.

Primark did an F-lite knock-off (50g heavier and £70 cheaper) last year but blink and they were gone.

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Muenchener on April 02, 2016, 01:40:01 pm
Inov8 F-Lite 195 is the shoe for near weightless harness clipping & yet not dying on the descent

+1. Or one of the X-talons with a deeper stud.

Expensive, not that durable, but ideal for LH+F.

DUrability isn't that bad. I've had mine for two years, do all my indoor training in them that requires shoes (stair climbing, step-ups, weights), plus a a few weekends of long approaches/descents per summer, plus couple of full days hiking/scrambling in the Kaisergebirge in bad weather. The mesh is a bit scuffed on the outside of one of them, but I expect to get another two summers out of them.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Hoseyb on April 02, 2016, 02:16:05 pm
After year's of pursuing the perfect approach shoe, I have now settled for a skate shoe - wellies combo. Either or rather than at the same time. Loads cheaper, more durable and effective.  Mind you not great for mountaineering,  but I have mountain boots for that...
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Will Hunt on October 20, 2016, 01:07:17 pm
Been wearing Camp 4 tennies for ages now and my current pair are about to drop off my feet. They annoy me because they soak up water like a sponge and take absolutely ages to dry out too. Any recommendations for a shoe (traditional "climbing" approach shoe or even a running shoe) that will tick the boxes in this order of priority:

1. Good in the mud/wet grass/rocky approaches
2. Good water resistance
3. Sticky for scrambling round the base of the crag and for climbing up to about HS
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: 36chambers on October 20, 2016, 01:35:11 pm
Been wearing Camp 4 tennies for ages now and my current pair are about to drop off my feet. They annoy me because they soak up water like a sponge and take absolutely ages to dry out too. Any recommendations for a shoe (traditional "climbing" approach shoe or even a running shoe) that will tick the boxes in this order of priority:

1. Good in the mud/wet grass/rocky approaches
2. Good water resistance
3. Sticky for scrambling round the base of the crag and for climbing up to about HS

Can confirm that Scarpa Zen Pros and Scarpa Vitamins both absorb water like there's no tomorrow. You'd think being even slightly water resistant would be a basic requirement for outdoorsy shoes.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: T_B on October 20, 2016, 02:06:16 pm
Been wearing Camp 4 tennies for ages now and my current pair are about to drop off my feet. They annoy me because they soak up water like a sponge and take absolutely ages to dry out too. Any recommendations for a shoe (traditional "climbing" approach shoe or even a running shoe) that will tick the boxes in this order of priority:

1. Good in the mud/wet grass/rocky approaches
2. Good water resistance
3. Sticky for scrambling round the base of the crag and for climbing up to about HS

Flat soled approach shoes for UK winter use questing about on the moors are sub optimal when you consider the huge range of fell/trail shoes out there. They have a more suitable sole, are designed to get wet and dry easily and some of them have sticky rubber e.g. Sportiva Bushido. You might not look cool like Sharma, but you can also do some hill reps after throwing down on your remote, hill side bloc. Oh, and they're light so you can clip em to your harness if you also do trad.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Duncan campbell on October 20, 2016, 02:10:55 pm
I bought a pair of Scarpa Crux at the start of the summer and I really rate them - pretty good on rock (not as good as tennies) but way better on mud and relatively water resistant (they were great when I first got them - they are understandably less good now but I imagine if I gave them a proofing they'd be better) they dry out fairly quickly too

They are pretty light, but also quite comfy and supportive and aren't sweaty (+stinky) as sin in the summer.

Seem to be pretty durable as well. I only really wear them for actual crag approaching but I reckon I'll easily get another year out of them.

Not dirt cheap but they aren't too expensive?

I personally find the fact that fell shoes are designed to get wet and dry quickly a bit shit as my feet get wet and then its grim putting my shoes back on in winter. I personally use fell shoes for mountain (+ main cliff) cragging where I need to chum about on steep mud + grass and carry my shoes up a route - but thats just me
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on October 21, 2016, 12:40:27 am
Quote from: Paul B
As I'm mostly venturing to sport locations ATM and currently have no big trips planned I've gone for the 'das. For shoes that I'd clip to a harness (or more often than not my second) I haven't a clue what I'd buy.

I glued the 'das this week which given they haven't had overly harsh use seems a bit poor.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Fultonius on October 21, 2016, 08:54:06 am
I bought a pair of La Sportiva Gandas for my last US trip (when I had money!!)  and they were very good for that (aid, easy cracks, approach in dry/rocky terrain)  but they had the usual dimple-sole issues in the mud.  I later got them resoled with a vibram lugged sole and they were transformed into a much better all-rounder.

This last US trip I opted for a pair of trail running shoes as we weren't aiding, my Gandas had been binned and I couldn't afford 2 pairs and needed some runners anywya. Got some Asics Tacoma Gel which were really bad. Fell to pieces (ok, talus is not what they're designed for) but even back in Scotland they're shit for running - no grip on wet rock whatsoever and not very supportive (tired feet). Won't do that again!


Why do I tell this?

A few friends have the cheaper, lugged sole La Sportiva ... oh  .... Boulder X. But wait, as I type I was on banana finger where they seem to get a poor write-up from many people fro durability....  Someone mentioned Haglofs Vertigo 11GT but that might not exist anymore. 

P'ah, who knows.

These popped up too https://www.ellis-brigham.com/products/the-north-face-mens-verto-plasma/206452  but I have no idea if TNF shoes are any good.

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Fultonius on October 21, 2016, 09:01:29 am
Anyone know the difference between and "adventure shoe" and an approach shoe?

http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/tx4
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: TobyD on October 21, 2016, 09:12:44 am

I personally find the fact that fell shoes are designed to get wet and dry quickly a bit shit as my feet get wet and then its grim putting my shoes back on in winter. I personally use fell shoes for mountain (+ main cliff) cragging where I need to chum about on steep mud + grass and carry my shoes up a route - but thats just me

I reckon the answer for much UK approaching are 'trail' shoes with some degree of waterproof/resistant liner. Dozens out there; eg asics, Adidas, Salamon etc. They are usually less expensive than branded approach shoes, have lugged durable soles, keep your feet dry on most stuff and you can run in them if you want to. Pretty light as well usually. They aren't perfect for actually climbing, but most uk   approach doesn't really need this anyway. IMHO, tennies etc are amazing in California but basically useless for much in the uk beyond what you can walk to in flip flops anyway. They do say 'im a climber' in the pub, which is probably why most of them are worn though!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Will Hunt on October 21, 2016, 09:19:02 am
Actual 'approach' shoes a la tennies and similar are designed for the californian approaches walking up low angle granite slabs for a few hundred feet, and and dry dusty trails. They are brilliant at this; but as more or less everone else says shite at getting to any uk crags except the ones you could walk to in a pair of £2 flip flops anyway. They do however make you look like a climber in the pub, which can be good or bad.

They aren't perfect for actually climbing, but most uk   approach doesn't really need this anyway. IMHO, tennies etc are amazing in California but basically useless for much in the uk beyond what you can walk to in flip flops anyway. They do say 'im a climber' in the pub, which is probably why most of them are worn though!

Are you a bot, Toby?

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: cheque on October 21, 2016, 09:54:21 am
The current version of the Camp 4 have really good soles with a deep tread- completely different to the version you have Will. They're less padded too so don't soak up water as badly too. I really like mine.

I've lost track of how many times I fell on my arse in Guide Tennies though. They delaminated too.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: creedence on October 21, 2016, 10:09:10 am
I've been using the Evolv Cruzer Psyche this summer, which I really like.
Really light, and sticky rubber which is the main thing I want out of an approach shoe.
I've found they grip okay in wet grass/mud, better than the Guide Tennies, and they also haven't delaminated like the 5.10s have.

Downside, they obviously aren't the toughest construction, but I reckon I'll get another summer's use out of them, and they are half the price of some other approach shoes.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on October 21, 2016, 10:12:07 am
I had the older version of Camp4 a few years back - were fucking dreadful. The heel was way too high and chunky and I would often turn my ankle over on the heel of the boot. The front were not technical enough to climb in, and the profile somehow constricted my toes in cold weather so once you got got cold feet on a winters day bouldering you couldn't get them warm again. Luckily they fell apart before too long.

My current approach shoes are the (now discontinued?) adidas stealth ones. For the type of stuff I would wear approach shoes for as opposed to walking boots they are great.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: TobyD on October 21, 2016, 01:17:33 pm
Actual 'approach' shoes a la tennies and similar are designed for the californian approaches walking up low angle granite slabs for a few hundred feet, and and dry dusty trails. They are brilliant at this; but as more or less everone else says shite at getting to any uk crags except the ones you could walk to in a pair of £2 flip flops anyway. They do however make you look like a climber in the pub, which can be good or bad.

They aren't perfect for actually climbing, but most uk   approach doesn't really need this anyway. IMHO, tennies etc are amazing in California but basically useless for much in the uk beyond what you can walk to in flip flops anyway. They do say 'im a climber' in the pub, which is probably why most of them are worn though!

Are you a bot, Toby?

 :lol:
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Will Hunt on December 05, 2016, 03:15:26 pm
I have gone down the route of saying that I'll wear boots more often in winter for seriously boggy, dewy, walk ins; with the approach shoes worn when it's been dry and for summer tradding.

Gone with these (officially to be unwrapped on Christmas Day but may get worn beforehand!).
http://www.sportiva.com/helios-sr.html
They're breathable, fast drying, and very light. Got a weird wavy tread on the bottom which will hopefully be good on steep grass/mud. They also have a pull loop on the back which is useful for clipping them to a harness. The hardest thing about finding a trail running shoe to use as an approach shoe was finding one that fit my narrow feet (Inov-8s are quite broad) which also had a tag loop on the back. Will report back after road testing.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 10, 2017, 04:36:14 pm
Has anyone had a pair of Mens Acrux FL Approach Shoes (Arc'teryx)?

How do they size compared to the average street shoe?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: standard on January 10, 2017, 08:06:37 pm
 :sick:
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 11, 2017, 08:50:19 am
Can't avoid a bargain and my 'das have split, been glued, split again, been glued and now reside in the bin.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dontfollowme on January 11, 2017, 08:59:54 am
Rock and Run have some Scarpa approach shoes on offer. I can't say if they're any good though.

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Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: 36chambers on January 11, 2017, 09:53:20 am
Rock and Run have some Scarpa approach shoes on offer. I can't say if they're any good though.

£50 for Women's Cruxes, just what the GF was after. Thank you :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 11, 2017, 10:07:13 am
Can't avoid a bargain and my 'das have split, been glued, split again, been glued and now reside in the bin.

Bargain? They seem to be about £150?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: T_B on January 11, 2017, 10:27:13 am
Sportpursuit are flogging them off for £80.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 11, 2017, 10:39:24 am

Cheers Tom. Tempting.....
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: J.Kydd on January 11, 2017, 11:23:04 am
I use a pair of Salomon XA Pro GTX shoes.
http://www.salomon.com/uk/product/xa-pro-3d-gtx.html
Great quality build, really comfy, decent grip and waterproof as they use Gore-Tex.

Really can't get my head around why more approach shoes aren't waterproof. For walk-ins involving long grass (Dartmoor!) they're facking brilliant. 
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 11, 2017, 01:47:02 pm
Sportpursuit are flogging them off for £80.

...there you go. I've ordered a pair of the 7.5 so when they come and I can let you know about sizing Galpinos if you wish?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 11, 2017, 02:03:31 pm
Sportpursuit are flogging them off for £80.

...there you go. I've ordered a pair of the 7.5 so when they come and I can let you know about sizing Galpinos if you wish?

That'd be great Paul. What's your normal show size? Did you go GTX or not?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 11, 2017, 03:32:54 pm
These:

https://www.sportpursuit.com/catalog/product/view/id/896939

I'm 7 in Adidas (ZX 500). I've just got a pair of 5.10 Approach (Xmas) more as trainers in a 7 (these are tight). I wouldn't entertain walking anywhere further than Kilnsey in these as they feel as if they'll just fall apart.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 16, 2017, 12:30:39 pm
Sportpursuit are flogging them off for £80.

...there you go. I've ordered a pair of the 7.5 so when they come and I can let you know about sizing Galpinos if you wish?

Did you get them Paul? Any first impressions/sizing info?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 16, 2017, 12:43:25 pm
Yes, they have arrived:

They seem very light for what they are.
The construction seems like an all-in-one type, with everything moulded together, I'm not sure how well it'll last?
The sides have thin material with perforations, any water and your foot will be getting soaked (but I guess you'll stay dry if it's a bit sweaty).
The inner sock is a bit odd and might become frustrating if you wore them out cragging / bloddering (on/off/on/off etc.).
I'm usually a size 7-7.5 (7 in 'das), I've got a lot of toe room at 7.5 in these. However, with a decent pair of socks on they almost feel too narrow at the broadest part of my foot.

I'm not sure I'd pick them in a shop.  :devangel: They're probably going back.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 16, 2017, 12:48:12 pm
Sounds like a no then,. Cheers for the feedback.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 16, 2017, 01:20:41 pm
Sounds like a no then,. Cheers for the feedback.

What size are you? I could delay return for a while and take them to Manc depot one night I was heading that way if useful.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Tommy on January 16, 2017, 01:34:54 pm
I'd get some of these

http://www.fiveten.com/uk/outdoor/approach/access-carbon (http://www.fiveten.com/uk/outdoor/approach/access-carbon)

Best approach shoe that I've used from Five Ten in years, by quite some way. I've absolutely ragged mine and put them in all sorts of situations and no failure point after one year. I'm really harsh on shoes as well... not exactly a kind user. I tread the heels down, where them in the mud, wet, whatever. I reckon I could go through 2-3 pairs of any other shoe with the same use.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 16, 2017, 01:46:17 pm
Sounds like a no then,. Cheers for the feedback.

What size are you? I could delay return for a while and take them to Manc depot one night I was heading that way if useful.

Cheers Paul but I'[m a 9.5/10. I was a bit unsure anyway (can't resist a bargain) but will save my pennies. I will probably just get another pair of fell shoes.....
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 16, 2017, 01:57:47 pm
Best approach shoe that I've used from Five Ten in years, by quite some way. I've absolutely ragged mine and put them in all sorts of situations and no failure point after one year. I'm really harsh on shoes as well... not exactly a kind user. I tread the heels down, where them in the mud, wet, whatever. I reckon I could go through 2-3 pairs of any other shoe with the same use.

Said the sponsored athelete  :-[

Sorry but I'm unconvinced by this; I've got a pair of the Access in mesh (maybe this is the difference), maroon. I'd be amazed if they last a year being used as a normal trainer! They seem to size up quite small IMO too.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 16, 2017, 02:00:39 pm
Said the sponsored athelete  :-[

Sorry but I'm unconvinced by this; I've got a pair of the Access in mesh (maybe this is the difference), maroon. I'd be amazed if they last a year being used as a normal trainer! They seem to size up quite small IMO too.

I would imagine the dotty sole would leave you on your arse quite a lot trying access British mountain crags.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 16, 2017, 02:05:20 pm
A new meaning to "Get in the sea"?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: sidewinder on January 16, 2017, 02:37:07 pm
Best approach shoe that I've used from Five Ten in years, by quite some way. I've absolutely ragged mine and put them in all sorts of situations and no failure point after one year. I'm really harsh on shoes as well... not exactly a kind user. I tread the heels down, where them in the mud, wet, whatever. I reckon I could go through 2-3 pairs of any other shoe with the same use.

Said the sponsored athelete  :-[

Sorry but I'm unconvinced by this; I've got a pair of the Access in mesh (maybe this is the difference), maroon. I'd be amazed if they last a year being used as a normal trainer! They seem to size up quite small IMO too.

I am not sponsored and have been very happy with the non-mesh version (3 months use with non-appreciable wear so far).
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Duma on January 16, 2017, 03:19:52 pm
I wear inov8 roclite 295 for approach stuff - amazingly tough given the negligible weight, can get GTX version too if you want, great sole for wet grass etc
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 16, 2017, 03:23:49 pm
I have the Guide Tennie (I think that's the model, grey leather/blue fabric).
Best shoe I've had in a long while. Dotty soles are the dog's bollocks on wet granite and mud alike. Ran a 12k across Dartmoor, in the autumn, in them. Only problem is they pick up leaves etc really badly, leading to me being in the cack for walking it into the house. Daily wear as trainer/work shoe too. 18 months old, maybe six left?


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Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 16, 2017, 03:32:01 pm
Conversely mine failed (toe rubber peeled away) walking (~6 miles) from the Mountain Shop in Yosemite to the base of Snake Dyke (or perhaps Reg NW face). Nat's Sportiva Boulder X's bought on the same day (in 2013) which have been roughly through the same as mine, are still going strong (and I've been through another pair since, along with plenty of shoe goo).
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 16, 2017, 03:36:36 pm
Never liked the Guide tennie. Clumpy, stiff, heavy, and my pair delaminated within weeks. Admittedly they are the best edging trainer I've had.

Five ten's strength for me was always the smedging ability, as exemplified by the Daescents, which means on rough rock you can climb almost as hard as rock boots.

Anyone got any beta on the current crop? Those access carbon look okay for approaching (ideally with a ghetto blaster on shoulder) but not so much climbing...
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Tommy on January 16, 2017, 04:31:50 pm
Paul, I wouldn't bother saying if I didn't think it. Stop being such a negative arse. I'm trying to help out... I'd just say silent otherwise.

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 16, 2017, 04:34:54 pm
Paul, I wouldn't bother saying if I didn't think it. Stop being such a negative arse. I'm trying to help out... I'd just say silent otherwise.

Tom, aren't they "death on a stick" on wet grass like guide tennies? I'm not sure I'd love wandering around on the gogarth grassy banks in them?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Tommy on January 16, 2017, 04:45:41 pm
No, they're much better for some reason. I think they've changed the rubber composition on these (taken from their wet / canyon stuff??) but I completely know what you're referencing. I think I was more injured at Font from slipping on snow in Guides than climbing problems! It was always a bit scary as you got so used to the friction on rock, but polar opposite on wet grass. I really rate these new shoes. Yeah, no shoe will do everything, but the level of compromise and acceptable levels across the whole range of the features is impressive IMO - and I'm pretty harsh!

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 16, 2017, 05:52:05 pm
I don't recognise them. Never a problem. \_[emoji53]_/


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Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: BrutusTheBear on January 16, 2017, 08:26:25 pm
Funky colours, anti-slip soles, insulated for warmth and bomb proof, All the rage on Exmoor :2thumbsup:

http://images.esellerpro.com/3278/I/653/8/C662343.jpg
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Paul B on January 17, 2017, 09:18:50 am
Perhaps I've been overly quick to judge the new Approach although seemingly the mesh was the wrong choice (Tom and I have kissed and made up elsewhere BTW).

I remembered this:
https://twitter.com/BrokenBennett/status/648457692105867264?s=09

which shows Nat's Sportivas on the RHS, my very glued tennies and finally the replacement 'das. It's a shame I didn't snap a picture of these (the 'das) last month when I stuck them in the bin as they were ruined (glued the outer rand for the inner to fail etc.). The Sportivas still live.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 17, 2017, 10:30:03 am
Quote
Yeah, no shoe will do everything, but the level of compromise and acceptable levels across the whole range of the features is impressive IMO - and I'm pretty harsh!

So are they good for climbing? Tend to do all my gritstone mileage soloing in trainers, mostly ~VS but up to about E2.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Tommy on January 17, 2017, 10:56:50 am
Nothing will hit the mark compared to the Daescents (I think both you and I are fans of those....? The one's that are basically like a climbing shoe at the front) but I can climb hard than other shoes in them - it doesn't depend on your fit and style I think. The mid sole is really soft, so you can only smear IMO. I'd rank:

Daescent
The one I said from this thread
Original guide tennie
New guide tennie
Camp 4

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: galpinos on January 17, 2017, 11:19:58 am

There's the new "approach pro" coming this year as well....

http://www.mountainblog.eu/product/five-ten-approach-pro-summer-2017/

http://www.fiveten.com/us/outdoor/approach-pro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=li26MpFlMsE
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: sidewinder on January 17, 2017, 02:14:40 pm

There's the new "approach pro" coming this year as well....

Launched today I think?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 17, 2017, 03:21:14 pm
They look really promising, though still look to have dotty tread on the front.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on January 17, 2017, 03:27:12 pm
Never liked the Guide tennie. Clumpy, stiff, heavy, and my pair delaminated within weeks. Admittedly they are the best edging trainer I've had.

Five ten's strength for me was always the smedging ability, as exemplified by the Daescents, which means on rough rock you can climb almost as hard as rock boots.

I found a very tight pair of Guide TEnnies (old shape) was far superior to Daescents for soloing on grit and what not. For some reason the edge on my Daescents sticks out compared to the footprint of the foot, so they are imprecise and bulge out, too sloppy. Maybe they were OK when new but they seem to have stretched a lot. They just don't feel confidence inspiring for anything other than pure smearing for me.  On the other hand the Guides felt pretty solid on most stuff. The edge just seemed more precise.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 17, 2017, 07:23:14 pm
'Very tight' rather defeats the point of trainers for me. Yes, guides are better for edging, but only that, and way inferior for everything else. If I soloed on slate it might be a consideration. I've got quite wide feet though so maybe a better fit.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on January 17, 2017, 11:42:19 pm
I wouldn't buy em that tight again, but even my replacement pair a size bigger were more precise than Daescents. Just to do with the basic shape of the toe and edge profile. Also Daescents are almost too lightly built, you'd almost be better off climbing barefoot. Zero support, zero protection. Rather defeats the point of trainers for me.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 18, 2017, 08:33:59 am
Strange then, that my guides lasted a fortnight whilst my Daescents have lasted longer than any other of my sticky trainers. And when, as implied by he name, you're carrying them for the descent off a big route, there's no such thing as too light. If I want support and protection I've got some lightweight walking boots.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on January 18, 2017, 08:57:23 am
I wouldn't wear the Daescents on any descent that involved damp grass if I wanted to live. Only marginally better than descending in rockshoes. Again, rather defeats the point of trainers for me.

My Dasecents have lasted well but mainly because they are now relegated to taking the bins out or driving to the School. It's scarcely ever dry enough underfoot to warrant wearing them out and about in the Peak except in high summer.

The weak point of the Guides was the single piece flat sole sheet coming off, mainly because FiveTen rely on the friction of the rubber alone to hold it on. My first pair lasted a month, took back to shop with receipt, second pair lasted 6 months, taken back to shop with receipt, final pair I dropped on some where they had used glue so the sole then outlasted the rest of the shoe.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 18, 2017, 11:59:09 am
Guides being famously good on wet grass, and impervious to damp of course.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dave on January 18, 2017, 12:29:45 pm
Guides being famously good on wet grass, and impervious to damp of course.

Compared to Daescents, yes.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Palomides on February 13, 2017, 01:13:50 pm
After the discussion above, ordered a pair of Access shoes that arrived today. Went up half a euro size from normal trainers (42.5 instead of 42) and seems to be just right.

It was hard to resist - as they were half price for no apparent reason and I had a load of gift cards to use up : http://www.auvieuxcampeur.fr/access.html
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: fatneck on March 22, 2018, 10:26:37 am
Got a pair of these just after Christmas and really can't recommend them highly enough...

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/sh-mh500-wtp-m-brown-id_8383667.html

Comfortable, warm, waterproof and built to last!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Nutty on July 05, 2018, 04:55:47 pm
Thought I'd flag up that the 5.10 Access Mesh are £45 at Rock+Run at the moment with most sizes available.

https://rockrun.com/collections/approach-shoes (https://rockrun.com/collections/approach-shoes)
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 22, 2020, 08:56:31 am
Thread bump as my old five tens are on the way out.

Anyone bought anything recently which seemed particularly good?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: duncan on January 22, 2020, 09:54:05 am
What do you want to use them for?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 22, 2020, 10:16:01 am
Basically walking to the crag; the 5 Tennies I've had the past few years have done the job. Before that I had some Salewa Wildfire which were great but are now very expensive. Basically nothing out of the ordinary which makes the £120 Scarpa ones seem a bit excessive!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: remus on January 22, 2020, 10:35:25 am
If you can find a pair the five ten access are good and kinda similar to the tennies (light-ish, good sole etc.) I've had a couple of pairs and they've lasted about a year each.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Lopez on January 22, 2020, 11:05:58 am
If you can find your size in the sales/clearances, the Sportiva TX4's are excellent. Feel soft and comfy like slippers or skate shoes when you put them on, but perform like beefed up boots when out in the hills.

I gave a pair a run for the money through the summer in Switzerlamd and the Dolomites for a couple of months of daily use valley-to-summit so to speak and they held up awesomely and are still going strong, and the grip is spot on in anything but snow (doh). Tarmac does noticeably kill the soles but not as bad as with the tennies.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: cheque on January 22, 2020, 11:46:23 am
If you can find a pair the five ten access are good and kinda similar to the tennies (light-ish, good sole etc.) I've had a couple of pairs and they've lasted about a year each.

Far bendier though and completely porous.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: M1V0 on January 22, 2020, 11:59:21 am
For whatever it's worth, I've had a pair of Scarpa Cruxs for about three years now which have gotten regular use, twice a week minimum. The raised rubber on the sides aids in stopping water flowing in from puddles, which is always appreciated.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: crzylgs on January 22, 2020, 12:01:50 pm
lasted about a year each.

Wearing just as approach shoes? Or really thrashing them?

Am I showing my age/frugality or is this a sign of how much of a throwaway society we live in? For a pair of supposedly high quality approach shoes to last 'only' a year seems terrible to me.

On that note... Absolutely do NOT buy anything from North Ridge I bought a pair of their 'Blazer Trail Running shoes'. These were not mega cheap £70 after reduction from £100ish, but also not top price range but were awful. After 3 months of very light use (the odd dog walk, but mostly had been in my hiking boots as its been so wet and wearing as approach shoes which for me is a once a week affair) then 1 week in Font the soles had completely separated from the shoe. Luckily Go Outdoors took them back and refunded without a single question asked when the lad on the counter took one look at them.

So following that failed purchase I'm also in the market for a 'decent' (my definition hopes to include a lifespan of more than a year...) pair of approach shoes. Would also be used for fair weather dog walks / hikes.

Was tempted by-

These Salomon trail running shoes, but the tread looks fairly extreme so don't think they'd be compfy on hard surfaces. Also not sure how robust they'd be:

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/speedcross-4-id_8366265.html?opeco=Block3-Product4&type=Sales

Also numerous times recently at the crag I've seen people with a pair of the Decathlon own brand 'Quechua' shoes that look like a rip off / copy of the Scarpa Crux (https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/15898253/scarpa-crux-men-s-approach-shoe-15898253), a couple of people spoke fairly highly of them but they appear to be sold out. I might just go for the legit Scarpa version as they look a very nice shoe to me, but are the upper end of my budget. Also traditionally Scarpa don't fit my narrow feet very well but will probably be fine with socks on.

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on January 22, 2020, 12:33:15 pm
I'd avoid the speedcross for general use. They are designed for mud / grass/ loose wet surfaces (and snow?), so have deep lugs and a hard rubber and are not great on wet hard surfaces, and don't have a lot in the way of comfort. I use them for mountain running, and at that price, tempted to get another pair, as mine are nearly trashed.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: dunnyg on January 22, 2020, 12:47:36 pm
I use the speed cross as approach shoes, they are built definitely for mud though, wet rock can be like skating sometimes. Bonus points is they are super light compared to tennies etc.. My pair get used for everything now they are a bit knackered and tarmac has seemed to have a fairly negative effect on them. I have some old tennies that i used for big-walling, and much prefer the speedcross in the UK due to weight, grip on mud (which is most approaches this winter) and they seem better suited for what I do. Unless you are going to do easy climbs in them I would get speedcross.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Duma on January 22, 2020, 02:38:34 pm
If I know remus (and I do) that'll be a year of absolutely trashing them! He climbs >150 days a year, and prob wears them the rest of the time too...

That said, my five ten aescents have been worn pretty much every day for the past 2 years and are only now giving up the ghost.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: crzylgs on January 22, 2020, 02:51:13 pm
If I know remus (and I do) that'll be a year of absolutely trashing them! He climbs >150 days a year, and prob wears them the rest of the time too...

That said, my five ten aescents have been worn pretty much every day for the past 2 years and are only now giving up the ghost.

Fair enough! Can probably triple that for my usage then :D
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Will Hunt on January 22, 2020, 03:31:56 pm
I'd just like to take this opportunity to slate La Sportiva. I'm really fucked off with them. I their approach and rock shoes and on every one of the last 10 or so pairs of shoes that I've had from them, the laces/velcro straps/stitched bits that the velcro buckle thing attaches to/etc have been the first thing to go. Before even the rubber on the rock shoes. If they're lace ups then, sure, you can relace them, but the Miura Lace Ups have these long, thin leather tubes that you'd have to thread the lace through - nigh on fucking impossible.

It's a complete pain in the arse and if their shoes didn't fit so well then I'd move on to someone else in a heartbeat.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: James Malloch on January 22, 2020, 03:38:37 pm
I’d agree with that for La Sportiva Shoes, though I’ve switched over to Instincts now.

I always had that problem with the muira VS and took to getting new leather Velcro buckles stitched on at the local cobblers. Right pain in the arse.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Plattsy on January 22, 2020, 03:49:10 pm
Boyager ate through a strap on my right Otaki. Took them back to Outside who sent them to La Sportiva. Came back with a patch fix and they've stood up to the abuse since including a couple or three resoles and new rands.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: remus on January 22, 2020, 04:50:13 pm
If I know remus (and I do) that'll be a year of absolutely trashing them! He climbs >150 days a year, and prob wears them the rest of the time too...

I wish I climbed 150 days per year! I do wear them everyday though so they're definitely getting a good bit of use.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Duma on January 22, 2020, 05:03:20 pm
Must be close...

[nips off to stalk logbook]

2019: 139!

[\logbook stalking]

If the weather this autumn hadn't been so shit I reckon you'd have made it
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Bradders on January 22, 2020, 06:42:43 pm
Basically walking to the crag

If you can find a pair the five ten access are good and kinda similar to the tennies (light-ish, good sole etc.) I've had a couple of pairs and they've lasted about a year each.

I have a pair of 5.10 access as well. They were great in Rocklands when fairly new (only non-rock shoes I took) but I wouldn't wear them for crag walk ins in the UK; they're terrible on mud which accounts for most UK walk ins and just not built durably enough to last sustained abuse. Plus they're not warm enough in my opinion.

See loads of people wearing them though so maybe I'm in a minority. They're great for general comfortable wear! I think I actually like them too much to want to ruin them on muddy walk ins :lol:

I've had a pair of Lowa Renegade GTX for the last couple of years, and can't imagine a better shoe for walking anywhere in the UK. Super comfortable, nice and lightweight (for a proper walking boot), really sturdy yet flexible and great on all sorts of terrain. My pair are still in great condition despite a couple of years of pretty heavy use (at least twice a week, every week, mud, rock, easy scrambling, etc.). I've worn them for all day walks in the hills and to get across the bog at Almscliff and they've been exceptional. Still completely waterproof too, even fully immersed in a stream. Can't recommend highly enough.

https://www.lowa.co.uk/shop/product-13-renegade-gtx-mid-2018
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: cheque on January 22, 2020, 08:19:25 pm
I have a pair of 5.10 access as well. They were great in Rocklands when fairly new (only non-rock shoes I took) but I wouldn't wear them for crag walk ins in the UK; they're terrible on mud which accounts for most UK walk ins and just not built durably enough to last sustained abuse. Plus they're not warm enough in my opinion.

See loads of people wearing them though so maybe I'm in a minority. They're great for general comfortable wear! I think I actually like them too much to want to ruin them on muddy walk ins :lol:

 :agree: Lots of people seem fine wearing then for everything but I think that’s more a sign that they’d be happy with any old trainers than an indication that there’s anything special about Accesses.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: teestub on January 22, 2020, 09:18:22 pm
 :agree:
And literally everywhere seemed to over order them so there were tonnes going cheap for the gannets (like me) to pick up.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on January 22, 2020, 09:20:38 pm
These:

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/arpenaz-50-warm-mens-snow-boots-black-id_8344304.html?iv_=__iv_p_1_g_66734596961_c_316432603648_w_pla-329717981262_n_g_d_c_v__l__t__r_1o4x_pla_y_15177021_f_online_o_894037_z_GB_i_en_j_329717981262_s__e__h_9046620_ii__vi__&gclid=CjwKCAiAgqDxBRBTEiwA59eEN9T6PUwWh0KICvlujfMBlsHKhAEV_CZUy9QyCKVbhIvgOI-zTYW5SxoCDOAQAvD_BwE

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: teestub on January 22, 2020, 09:37:36 pm
I got some similar to these and find them well sketchy in mud and wet rock, maybe the Decathlon ones perform better!
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on January 22, 2020, 10:05:48 pm
I got some similar to these and find them well sketchy in mud and wet rock, maybe the Decathlon ones perform better!

I had some similar ones a few years back that were basically all the same moulded plastic that were lethal...

These however - are amazing on wet gritstone! Better than my usual Salomon approach shoes (or 5:10 skate shoe stealth soled thingies). Not actually THAT warm despite being for snow.. and not much sole cushioning. But they're £13....
(& just about tall enough to wade to Rubicon :) )
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: duncan on January 23, 2020, 08:14:08 am
Basically walking to the crag; ...

If the crag is a typical British hill, moor, or sea cliff - grassy and slippy and a bit muddy - fell running shoes or hiking boots usually work better than approach shoes. I like Walshes (https://www.peteblandsports.co.uk/buy/walsh-unisex-pb-ultra-xtreme_4451.htm) (made in Bolton) but it depends on your foot type.
If the crag is in a bog, wellies work better than approach shoes. Nokia bog trotters (https://www.fwtyson.co.uk/nokianfinntrim-m-bog-trotter-boot-219-p.asp) are the anasazi Pinks of the wellie world.
Approach shoes originated in Spain and California and if the walk-in is across dry and warm limestone or granite, approach shoes are great. The Decathlon ones fit me pretty well.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Bradders on January 23, 2020, 08:43:44 am
But they're £13....

Maybe I've been reading the Guardian too often, but something this cheap which I instinctively think ought to be more expensive makes me wonder how much child labour / exploitative working conditions/ earth destroying materials / carbon emissions / etc. have gone into their production.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on January 23, 2020, 08:52:23 am
But they're £13....

Maybe I've been reading the Guardian too often, but something this cheap which I instinctively think ought to be more expensive makes me wonder how much child labour / exploitative working conditions/ earth destroying materials / carbon emissions / etc. have gone into their production.

Yup its a hard one to call... accountabiliy and their longevity is also a key issue. No idea if Decathlog are ethical(ish?) sourcers..

Some cheap tat dissolves in a few weeks - though my fake Crocs that were £3 have lasted 8 years and are still going... Taking them as an example is their production process that much worse than the genuine item?

I'm not pretending to be climate teetotal..
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2020, 08:56:23 am
I got some similar to these and find them well sketchy in mud and wet rock, maybe the Decathlon ones perform better!

They don't the soles are more like plastic than rubber.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: remus on January 23, 2020, 09:27:15 am
But they're £13....

Maybe I've been reading the Guardian too often, but something this cheap which I instinctively think ought to be more expensive makes me wonder how much child labour / exploitative working conditions/ earth destroying materials / carbon emissions / etc. have gone into their production.

Yup its a hard one to call... accountabiliy and their longevity is also a key issue. No idea if Decathlog are ethical(ish?) sourcers..

Some cheap tat dissolves in a few weeks - though my fake Crocs that were £3 have lasted 8 years and are still going... Taking them as an example is their production process that much worse than the genuine item?

I'm not pretending to be climate teetotal..

Can't comment on Decathlon's ethical credentials but I've had a pair of those for a couple of years and they're holding up well.

More like wellies than approach shoes, so good if it's cold and snowy or very wet and muddy but I wouldn't wear them on steep approaches or anything that'd involve scrambling. They also breath like a plastic bag which means they get pretty sweaty and minging as soon as it gets at all warm.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: Plattsy on January 23, 2020, 09:37:31 am
I usually see what's going on Sportpursuit at the time and end up with a pair waterproof trainers. Generally pay £50-70 at about half price. Currently in a pair of Columbia Montrail which are holding up well although their soles are too easily clogged up with mud and grass which make even gentle muddy or grassy slopes perilously interesting. Hard to put a price on that feeling of frisson after a small slip on wet grass.  :lol:
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: andy popp on January 23, 2020, 09:47:08 am
What's wrong with a pair of ex-German military paratrooper's boots?
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: tomtom on January 23, 2020, 10:22:15 am
What's wrong with a pair of ex-German military paratrooper's boots?

I seem to remember your approach shoe of choice being a pair of old vans :)
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: andy popp on January 23, 2020, 10:36:34 am
I seem to remember your approach shoe of choice being a pair of old vans :)

An old pair of Vans is my only choice of footwear in all situations.
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2020, 10:57:11 am
What's wrong with a pair of ex-German military paratrooper's boots?

Complete with brownshirt? Perfect for crushing
Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: crzylgs on January 23, 2020, 01:44:47 pm
I usually see what's going on Sportpursuit

Thanks for the suggestions, I had never come across that particular website before. Looks like it has some decent deals on it  :thumbsup:

Title: Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2020, 02:51:43 pm
https://www.sportsshoes.com/products/outdoors/walking-shoes/

as well as trail shoes section too, can have good deals.
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