UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: iwasmexican on December 24, 2011, 10:25:42 pm
-
thought id get the ball rolling:
general goals
- boulder 8a
- boulder 7c+
- boulder 7c (its gonna be a good year)
- a 7c in font would be outstanding but not mandatory
- 1-4-7 on the smalls consistently as opposed once a blue moon
- get a beastmaker and actually use it
specific goals
- get past the toe hook on preparation h
- the crack
- optimus prime ss
- noir desir
- any of the big four
- v-crimps
- the yorkshireman
-
Focus on areas/experiences rather than chasing numbers.
Frankenjura as regularly as possible
And any two of the following:
Dolomites again
Oberreintal looks great: planned trip last June fell victim to weather & illness
Swiss/Italian alpine granite: Handegg, Salbit, Mello ...
Welsh trad nostalgia trip
But also: 6c, 6C
-
Having been on here for nearly seven years and never having managed a years aims....
get out more, justify van etc.
get finger fully healed and avoid new injuries.
Lowrider
Jungle VIP
Symbiose
I Comme Irun
(I'm at work, so can justify christmas day postings - what's your excuses?)
-
Think I will join in this year:
General Stuff
Sports:
Onsight a 6c
do more than 1 7a or harder
Bouldering:
6C or harder
Trad:
More multipitch this year
solid E1 onsight
Onsight E3
Specific Stuff
Do a grand day out in the slate quarries in best possible style
Pebble Wall
tick a 7a or harder in costa blanca march
Get in loads of millage in my Font trip
enter a bouldering comp
Visit the slate quarries more than once
-
Font 8B
-
Me too...
Sport:
Recover the stamina to on sight a 7a, longer than 10mtrs.
8a without having to top rope. (a real challenge as I've hardly climbed routes on real rock for over a year).
Trad:
Uh, maybe...
If I can find where I put my head and rebuild my rack. Never managed more than E4 trad so, I'd like to get an E5... Rack looks like something from a museum. ( this may be a longer term goal).
Bouldering:
Font 8a, anywhere.
Finish super trooper, before the summer is out. (V8 )
Work out how the hell to convert between V grades and Font grades...
Mainly recover my head, as at the mo, I'm falling off things because I'm scared of falling off.
(what the hell is that all about!)
Much of this is dependant on me getting back some self confidence, which has taken a battering over the last couple of years.
Oh yeah. Remember how to talk to other people and find someone to climb with who will understand why I can't commit at the moment ( and won't immediately call for the men in the white coats, if I have a tantrum after falling off).
Wow just discovered, if type 8 and then ), in tapatalk you get 8) ..
-
General
- Move to Vancouver/Squamish for at least 6 months
- Buy a van
- Get a job in back country mineral exploration
- Try not stuff up things in life that are important to me, while doing what i need to do
Climbing
- Boulder 7b
- Trad E4 in Ireland, get to grips with north american 5.10 cracks
- Go to Indian Creek, Vedauwoo, Joshua Tree, and the Black Canyon
- Aid C3, solo something inspiring in Yosemite and try to take less than a week doing it
-
Simply, my project. More broadly, try to realise potential with a job that can afford me the money and time to do this.
Best wishes to all of you with your goals. Happy christmas squad!
-
Goals -
Climb 7C sport
Boulder 7a regularly in a session
Onsight E4 - The Axe on Cloggy would be good!
Climb lots of classic V/VI winter routes.
Climb the Frendo, Freney Pillar and Walker Spur
Go to Ceuse
climb Empire of the Sun at Ansteys
-
oh and go to fairhead!
-
You've got your upper and lower cases mixed up csl.
-
cheers. Always get them mixed up. Luckily the 'boulder' and 'sport' should make it clear enough?
-
Specific Goal
-Climb New Dawn at Malham, climb 7c for the first time.
General Goals
-Climb a few good E3's and E4's, Such as Wellington crack and Tippler direct.
-Climb grade V winter. Orion face direct or point five would be nice :smirk:
-Boulder 7b
Bring on 2012 and all that it offers! :strongbench:
-
Same as last year but let's hope there's some fucking proper weather :chair:
1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual.
2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness.
3. Get to somewhere interesting in late Jan (Morocco? Gibraltar?) and early April (Pfalz? Annot?).
4. Week long trip to Lewis, several days sea-cliffing in Skye, long weekend in Ardnamurchan.
5. Explore more bouldering over winter, esp: Glen Nevis, Torridon/Reiff, Skye, Carrock Fell, Queen's Crag, Shaftoe, Rothley, Simonside
6. Climb a few E5s and maybe a few F7a+s if I get my fitness back
7. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall.
8. Lose 1 stone via the above.
Sounds so simple on paper. All appendages crossed. :fishing:
-
Get a first. (or at least a good 2.1)
onsight 7b+/c
do some uk 8as
Chimes of Freedom
more 7Cs, on lime and grit
hopefully 7C+
Old-school road trip to Buoux, Verdon & Ceuse in summer/autumn. Do some exciting multipitches.
Do some hardish-but-safe trad without groundfall potential.
Do some daft link up projects in Cheddar.
Try harder than last year not to get injured - no training when sleep-deprived, no dangerous routes.
-
Conditions in the Peak is crap atm, above all this year I hope for good weather to allow me to get out as much as possible.
The next step for me seems like quite a big one, I hope these goals are realised:
V10 On Grit
V10 On Lime
At least one hard grit route
Improve on 2011's total of 3 routes on the lime! Bagging my first 8a would be ideal
Maintain my periodised training at the wall and home, further develop beastly finger strength and hone sic power endurance in time for summers lime crushing plans.
Trips:
Northumberland
Berry Head
Font
Happy crushing all, best of luck for 2012... BRING IT ON :boxing:
-
Sport 8b - The Ripper/The Oak
Boulder 7B+, or at least put some effort into something. For once.
-
Much the same as last year:
font 7C - many candidates
F8a - actually going to train for it this year.
onsight 7a/+ consistently.
E4 - Resurrection and Flaky Wall still ultimate aims
decent size/difficulty/remoteness mountain route.
-
pretty much the same as the last 15 years
boulder 7C
boulder with other people
and a new one - film other people and feel OK about editing footage of their efforts
-
Start training seriously and climb some proper 7C boulders!! :beer2:
-
I'm in.
Main climbing goal is to stop pissing about and actually do some projects that I know I can do but haven't actually done.
Climb somewhere other than Swanage and Portland.
8a - several, where and what is negotiable
Font 7C, in font. Multiple candidates I've tried but inevitably something that suits me and that is probably soft. I should probably do real 7B+ too.
E4 - do and consolidate. And maybe, just maybe an E5 like Wall of the Worlds or even Lean Machine.
The most important thing though is to get a good result in the degree and then use the thing to actually find a job, possibly even one I'd like.
-
Climb 8b+ (Walking Mussel)
Do my two new route projects on NWales lime
Finish off The Brute on the Diamond
Do lots of boulder problems 7c and above in N wales.
Put some good time in on Liquid Ambar and some links.
Be able to afford a holiday this year :'(
-
Climb 8b+ before Doylo.
Do Doylo's two new route projects on NWales lime. Before Doylo.
Do The Brute on the Diamond, before Doylo.
Do more boulder problem 7c and above in N wales than Doylo.
Put in less time than Doylo on Liquid Ambar, and yet do better links.
Take fewer holidays, gets tiresome when money no object.
-
I think you will Nige. My list was pretty optimistic as i have some strange illness and in reality if i'm still alive come Feb i'll be chuffed
-
Hmmm, after this year's poor show (1 from 4), do I carry on with more of the same or change tack?
Let's see...
Sport - more 7b+ (probably The Lynch or Threadbare LH start). A 7c would be a bonus. Check out venues other than Ansteys and Torbryan, maybe Brean Down.
Trad - failed even to get on last year's goals so... lead E3 regularly. Do a couple of E4s. Be brave and lead Call to Arms on Sanctuary Wall. As per sport, climb at more venues - Avon, Cheddar, Wye valley. Take advantage of CC membership and spend more time in Pembroke and Penwith.
Running - 1hr 35min half marathon. Got the Exeter half in mid-Feb so not much time for this.
Not get injured for two years in a row...
I'm not greedy, will be happy with any of the above!
-
Get uninjured, been injured since 09 now.
Climb stuff.
Stay uninjured.
-
1. Louis Armstrong int' cave
2. Finish big 4 in Font
3. Get to Magic Wood and destroy Body Count, NES pt1, Electric Boogie
4. Get no more points/speeding/parking tickets!
5. Climb something harder than 7C on grit
6. Do some structured training instead of just relying on slowly getting better at climbing
7. Win the UKB FF!
-
I think you will Nige. My list was pretty optimistic as i have some strange illness and in reality if i'm still alive come Feb i'll be chuffed
As long as I can tick all those from my armchair I'll be fine, given that I don't actually climb anymore. Seriously though it would be unfair to expire by Feb, as it would rob me of any possible chance to upstage you if I ever make a comeback.
-
I think you will Nige. My list was pretty optimistic as i have some strange illness and in reality if i'm still alive come Feb i'll be chuffed
As long as I can tick all those from my armchair I'll be fine, given that I don't actually climb anymore. Seriously though it would be unfair to expire by Feb, as it would rob me of any possible chance to upstage you if I ever make a comeback.
I'm going to have sex with your girlfriend
-
Climb 8b+ before Doylo.
Do Doylo's two new route projects on NWales lime. Before Doylo.
Do The Brute on the Diamond, before Doylo.
Do more boulder problem 7c and above in N wales than Doylo.
Put in less time than Doylo on Liquid Ambar, and yet do better links.
Take fewer holidays, gets tiresome when money no object.
I'm going to have sex with your girlfriend
So Nige is one step ahead of you already then :P (I hope...)
-
The Lynch or Threadbare LH start
Wow both of those are frikkin' nails for 7b+! (And I heard a hold has come off the crux of Threadbare, the LH start was tough for 7b+ to start with).
Good luck....
-
For the third year running... 7A
Unearth and develop some more Lancs esoterica.
-
climb font 7a, not ones I've already done.
climb font 7a in font.
lose 8 pounds / 2 inches off my waist line... achieved by drinking less.
get a new job.... outside of the NHS.
buy an RV, tour west coast of france bodyboarding with the family.
learn to lie a bike flat in the air.
use a small free ride bike in the alps... with the skills to ride faster and gain ability to ride the trails - not just brake down the hill on a DH rig.
find my perfect descent off kinder, and film it.
do a route.
be less stressed, count my blessings and listen to my kids.
-
:boxing: The Beast
Other than that, stop looking for new stuff and enjoy some classics.
All, of course providing there is any time left over after enjoying spending time with my kids
Hose
-
1. Get a job which isn't really boring and have enough money to do more trips away.
2. Tuppence, Nemesis, Bricktop
3. Go more places in the UK I haven't been
4. Do some 7Bs and 7B+s
5. Burn off people who are better than me by the power of sheer awkwardness
6. Make Barrows' life a living hell
-
1. Get some more 7C's
2. Do some 7C+'s and hopefully an 8A
3. Do some more sport outdoors hopefully do 8a outdoors
Specific routes
1. FUCKING ROCKATROCITY!!!!
2. Lou ferrino
3. Cave problem SS at Raven tor (and hopefully into bashers righthand)
4. The press
5. Raindogs (although I've never actually been to malham)
Theres probably loads more but I can't really remember
oh and get accepted for my PhD application
-
Get a first. (or at least a good 2.1)
onsight 7b+/c
do some uk 8as
Chimes of Freedom
more 7Cs, on lime and grit
hopefully 7C+
Old-school road trip to Buoux, Verdon & Ceuse in summer/autumn. Do some exciting multipitches.
Do some hardish-but-safe trad without groundfall potential.
Do some daft link up projects in Cheddar.
Try harder than last year not to get injured - no training when sleep-deprived, no dangerous routes.
hows about this for a bit of competition.
1. End 2012 ahead of i_a_c on 8a.poo :jaw:
shall we wager a beer?
-
Put less time into worrying about work and more into being in the Peak
High Plains Drifter & Morning Dove White @ Bishop
Climb 7b in Font
Climb 7c on Peak grit
Actually manage to do the crux move (and whole route) on Sardine, and also Tin Of @ The Tor
Start working Ben's Roof @ The Tor (and hopefully do it one day)
Start warming up and warming down properly before I do some serious damage
:dance1: Game on!
-
hows about this for a bit of competition.
1. End 2012 ahead of i_a_c on 8a.poo :jaw:
shall we wager a beer?
It is ON! :boxing:
-
The Lynch or Threadbare LH start
Wow both of those are frikkin' nails for 7b+! (And I heard a hold has come off the crux of Threadbare, the LH start was tough for 7b+ to start with).
Good luck....
Any recommendations for soft 7b+'s in the SW then? I really should venture a bit further afield than Torbryan and Ansteys...
-
The Lynch or Threadbare LH start
Wow both of those are frikkin' nails for 7b+! (And I heard a hold has come off the crux of Threadbare, the LH start was tough for 7b+ to start with).
Good luck....
Any recommendations for soft 7b+'s in the SW then? I really should venture a bit further afield than Torbryan and Ansteys...
Don't sell your self short!
The worst that can happen is you don't finish...
-
The Lynch or Threadbare LH start
Wow both of those are frikkin' nails for 7b+! (And I heard a hold has come off the crux of Threadbare, the LH start was tough for 7b+ to start with).
Good luck....
Any recommendations for soft 7b+'s in the SW then? I really should venture a bit further afield than Torbryan and Ansteys...
I dunno, they are two of the best crags in the country IMHO.... but House Burning Down at Cheddar is both awesome and much easier. Playboys also at Cheddar is nice crimpy wall climbing. If you want a real change from Torbryan and Ansteys in the SW, you could try the quarried granite at Cheesewring - Slingshot and Rampage are both 7b in the guide and 7b+ on ukc, both amazing. (slingshot is harder I think! god knows about grades on granite though, everything feels hard and weird at first)
-
3. Cave problem SS at Raven tor (and hopefully into bashers righthand)
Let's Get Ready To Rumbleweed is a fine aim for anyone!
Climb 7c on Peak grit
Start working Ben's Roof @ The Tor (and hopefully do it one day)
I know someone you should climb with more.
-
Climb 8A again, originally aimed to do this at age 40 but by then had given up, so six years later will have to make do with 8A at 45.
-
Font 6C
f7a indoors or out (both would be ideal)
specific
Bjorn again
Slopey Traverse
Ripple wall
and get my 3 FAs done
gonna be hard but i will do it
-
Font 6C
f7a indoors or out (both would be ideal)
specific
Bjorn again
Slopey Traverse
Ripple wall
and get my 3 FAs done
gonna be hard but i will do it
Gotta say, ripple wall's a bit of a sod. There have been days when it has pissed me off right royally.. And others where it seems so straight forward.
-
Good to know that about Ripple wall. And I hear the crux is getting off the ground gotta say the few times I've tried it I agree
-
Climb 7c on Peak grit
Start working Ben's Roof @ The Tor (and hopefully do it one day)
I know someone you should climb with more.
Best get training then so your old bird monster doesn't burn me off
-
boulder 7a everywhere.
boulder higher than 7a on the grit.
E3 routes.
A few routes on the gritlist.
Spend time on the lime doing sport. (7b)
Unless going to Windy Ledge, dont even consider going to stoney middleton, i cant have my blossoming love affair with limestone ruined by stoney showing me what it eventually becomes.....
-
Beautiful Gecko and Shazam Sit - Bishop
The Practitioner and 101 Ways To Fling Poo - Leavenworth
The Summoning - Squamish
Climb somewhere with my mates from back home, miss you guys....
-
After recurrent failures for the last x years, it's time to change tack!
1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project
2. Boulder 7c. I think the Red Wall project will be this grade, so that is excluded. It'd be nice to do a 7C that doesn't instantly get downgraded too.
3. Get a house that I can build a woody in
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists
6. Run a marathon
7. Go to Font
8. Do at least ten Munros and ten Wainwrights
9. Stop drinking and get fit
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100
A few off topic and vague, but hopefully I'll be more psyched to tick a few of these off in 2012.
-
Go G, this year the SYKE will be high. Strangely you forgot your trad and sport targets :shrug:
Might as well do some for me:
1) Carry on climbing despite arrival of child number two on Boxing Day (likely)
2) Sport 8b+ (possible)
3) A decent glob of trad E5+, not all on grit, not all single pitch! (possible time allowing...)
4) Stick to my training.... (I've never managed this in the past)
5) To allow me to go big towards the end of summer. (pie in the sky)
These are definitely in order of increasing unlikeliness...
For the first time in years I have no bouldering aspirations.
-
11. Remember to avoid sport and trad like the plague, despite what the Bearded One may say.
-
In order...
Dust off my rack. Retrieve rope from its current employment holding up a eucalyptus tree.
Get back up to speed on the sandstone, then climb some harder things that I haven't done before - The Thing, Temptation, Krait Arete, Second Generation perhaps
Some decent UK trad - Peak, Wales and Cornwall - would be nice to onsight something(s) around E4 - E5
Trip to Red Rocks in the autumn maybe - multi pitch, classic trad, maybe some hard (for me) sport routes- maybe a 5.13a?
Ride some more Alpine / Italian passes - Izoard, Iseran, Stelvio, Gavia, Mortirolo, Madonna del Ghisallo, maybe get a decent time on Ventoux (1hr30 from Bedoin?)
That's all the easy stuff.
Then, launch new business, get married, get a decent suit made, teach Sibylla how to ride a bicycle, try not to be such an irascible easily irritated grouch, particularly in the company of uncivilised bogan fuckheads.
-
a proper e8 on grit (potds doesnt count after the varian-pasquill intervention :furious:)
boulder more font 7c's on grit (and lime, maybe)
sport 8a/+ (chimes or something foreign, again big maybe)
-
Maintain 9 out of 12 months active climbing.
A couple of things from the Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18533.0.html).
Take sport climbing a little more seriously and get up something harder than my hardest onsight (ie a 7b or 7b+).
Similarly bouldering at 6C/V5.
Most of the above is a means to an end, which is to onsight E5.
-
Boulder 7a.
Onsight 7a Sport.
Get on Peak Limestone now I have a car.
Do some training.
Avoid Gritstone trad where possible!
-
Don't sell your self short!
The worst that can happen is you don't finish...
Don't worry, no selling myself short, I'll be getting on Threadbare and the Lynch anyway (had Threadbare in two sections last May), just looking for some extra hopefully easier ticks in addition.
-
1. Climb 8a+ in England
2. Climb 8b in England
3. Climb two 8b s one power endurance based and one stamina based
4. Onsight 8a
5. Boulder 7C+ (before Bojan, and dynos don't count)
6. Boulder 7C on the Lime
7. Go trad climbing more
8. Onsight some more E6s including some long ones.
Get on: The Medium, The Quarryman groove (if you don't try you'll never know...), The Black Bean (Ceuse), Psycho, Skinhead Moonstomp and Ghost Train
Get Back on: Silk and Spring Voyage
Go to: Cloggy
-
7. Go trad climbing more
8. Onsight some more E6s including some long ones.
Get on: ... The Black Bean (Ceuse)
Is this part of the trad climbing? Might be hard for E6.
-
4. Onsight 8a
Congratulations on the recent 8a flash!
-
My aims for 2012:
1) Boulder harder than V7 (ideally V9 by this time next year, but probably way too ambitious, so V8 will do)
2)Tick loads of clssic V5-V7's in Uk, Font and Swiss!
3)Be able to do more than 3 pull ups (dire, I know)
4)Finally get the sitter to Johnny's problem on Cromlech done (evasive little bastard that top move is!)
5)oh yeah and pass 4th year (afterthought) :smartass:
I'd be happy with this lot! ;)
-
First the holidays have already been planned-
1. Week in peak end of May
2. Week in Font end of July (plus all the other weekend trips)
3. 1 month in Turkey should get a fair bit of time in Bafa Golu (if anyone has any info and it hasn't been bought by developers).
Continue exploring new places in Font (more of Coquibus, gorge de Houx....)
Get a few more 6As in the forest (meilleur des mondes - Bois Rond is one on the list) and try not to get shut down on so many 4C-5C problems.
6B indoors.
Mostly just stay uninjured (ish).
7A by 50.
-
7. Go trad climbing more
8. Onsight some more E6s including some long ones.
Get on: ... The Black Bean (Ceuse)
Is this part of the trad climbing? Might be hard for E6.
hmmm, I might leave that one for 2013... :ohmy:
-
Scottish based aims for me in 2012.
Trad:
Consolidate at E3 and get on more E4s - especially The Harp and Haystack on Shelterstone, and finally get round to doing Steeple. More mountain routes and more trips to the NW Highlands.
Perhaps an esoteric/inspiring/amusing headpoint project - Jules Lines' new 10m E6 on the summit tor of a remote Cairngorm top?
Sport:
Redpoint another 7b - Giza Break during the summer Camel season?
Redpoint Primo 7b+ at Am Fasgadh
Autumn spain trip
Boulders:
Malc's Arete and The Mission, Torridon
Take a look at DanV's slab at Sheildaig
Mop up the remaining problems at Laggan.
General: At least one trip to the grit, one trip to Wales and a trip to the Western Isles.
-
Grades-wise the same as last year: Trad E2, Sport 7a, Boulder 7a. I reckon I have a very good chance of meeting or even exceeding the trad and sport ones and bouldering should be feasible too if I put the effort in.
Find less punterish, more psyched, more reliable partners.
Move to Sheffield or other location with similar proximity of rock and population of climbers. Unlikely considering the current job market and the fact I have a good job right where I live now but would be ace and make the above aims easy.
Stretch every day and keep a training diary in order to maintain recent levels of training psyche without injury.
At least one foreign trp and as many domestic ones as possible.
-
Calling it here, so i gotta do it this year, or i loose internet points... and that's just not the done thing!
Boulder:
First 8A
First 8A+
7C on grit
7C+ in a sesion
Sport:
do 8a
Onsight 7a
Trad:
Highball E5 +
Do something that makes me cry.
Life:
Help develop local climbing scene
Be more helpfull
Try my hardest to genuinely be a nice guy.
To those of you who manage at least 1 of your goals :bow:
-
Last years aims got done, so going to make these ones harder....
1. Onsight a proper (ie not grit) E2
2. Onisght a grit (or any) E3
3. Ground up E4
3.5 headpoint summat hard - E6?
4. Boulder lots more 7B's and some 7B+
5. Get a couple more 7C's done
6. Climb outside more, in all weathers
7. Go to some propper (ie multipitch) cliffs
8. Get some good snowy stuff done in the alps and some decent water ice - tho maybe the year after...
9. Get a 2.1/1st
10. Just climb shit loads
11. Do some 'orrible aid/trad combos
12. Develop local crags that no one can ever be arsed with.
13. Climb inside less!
Game. Fucking. On. :great: ambitous? fuck yeah
-
pretty much the same as the last 15 years
boulder 7C
boulder with other people
and a new one - film other people and feel OK about editing footage of their efforts
Also,
get my gamma-GT levels to be lower than my IQ
-
Last years aims got done, so going to make these ones harder....
3.5 headpoint summat hard - E6?
6. Climb outside more, in all weathers
10. Just climb shit loads
11. Do some 'orrible aid/trad combos
12. Develop local crags that no one can ever be arsed with.
I think its cheating to set goals that you've already achieved, Huw :shrug:
Let's also add:
14. Being in London less when my mates call me up to go climbing.
-
1. Go climbing somewhere other than Kilnsey.
2. Redpoint F8a again (not sure if this is incompatible with the first one).
3. Onsight F7b+ in the UK.
4. Onsight a few more Euro F7cs.
5. More trad trips to the Lakes/Wales/South West/Scotland.
6. Onsight E6 (been climbing E5 for 10+ years, so at least trying one would be a good start).
7. Boulder 7C on the grit.
To be honest, ticking off half of those would be great year.....
-
Think it might be realistic to include 2 of the 3 lifetime goals this year (exciting!!!) - sport 8a & onsight E5 (font 8a is a way off still...)
Would be over the moon if these go down.
Also would like to:
- Climb on grit more
- Get to pembroke more often
- Get to Berry Head and finish off Rainbow Bridge
- Successfully slay elbow tendonitis in the next month ahead of Font in Feb
- Crush in Font
- Boulder 7B or harder at some point in the year
- Train power
A few on the wishlist:
Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, vector, german schoolgirl, arms race, swan, elegy
Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, sulky little boys
-
Havent done an E6- the masses recon its a 5. As for shit crags, well I've got some even shitter ones. Going to get warb keen... Havent been climbing shit loads for the last month :(
As for grim aid -trad combos......
fancy a trip do gordale for some E1-A3 action? Will have to wait untill sunnier times tho.
Sorry I havent been around. Not goin down anytime sooon, so we can b 2geva x :2thumbsup:
-
general:
- stay injury free
- train properly
- get really strong
- climb more at new places
- keep this fucking faith despite everything
specific:
- top out my project
- Font 8b away from home
- sport 8c
non climbing:
- become a better teacher
- enjoy teaching even more
- the rest I can't tell...
-
- get really strong
:-\ thought you were already the Beast Daddy...
:weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench:
-
we can b 2geva x :2thumbsup:
:beer2: :pissed: :hug: :kiss2: :shag: :coffee:
Forever and ever.
-
General Sport
Maintain a sensible/progressive strength progression regime
Look after the back and elbows
Improve stamina - might prove difficult
Bouldering
Keep chipping slowly away at the grade progression
Travel - Put in a good show in...
Font
Cornwall
Lake District
Peak
Non-climbing
Carry on being the best Dad I can be
Keep smiling through the rest of it...
-
Get a decent night's sleep(7 hours continuous). Is it possible to die from sustained insomnia?
-
Get a decent night's sleep(7 hours continuous). Is it possible to die from sustained insomnia?
There is a famous quote, supposedly one Churchill's...
"They say insomnia never killed anyone. This is because the Coroner always records the cause of death as suicide..."
-
A few carried over from 2011 and a couple of new ones for me...
Climbing:
Finish off my "tick Almscliff up to 6c+ in the last Yorkshire Bouldering Guide" mission by Easter
Climb a minimum of 3 Font 7as in Font at end of March
Climb a Font 7b anywhere
Do Breakfast at Burbage West (long-term nemesis)
Go to Ilkley (to my shame I'm still yet to go there since I moved to Yorkshire)
Go to Wales and boulder in The Pass / Porth Ysgo
Get one of my photos published in a guidebook
Get a photo of me published in a guidebook
Non-climbing:
Continue non / minimal drinking mission I started in early Dec 2011
Manage balance between lovely but non-climbing girlfriend and achieving climbing ambitions above
Continue saving for house deposit and hopefully become a homeowner at some point
-
Last years aims got done, so going to make these ones harder....
1. Onsight a proper (ie not grit) E2
2. Onisght a grit (or any) E3
3. Ground up E4
3.5 headpoint summat hard - E6?
4. Boulder lots more 7B's and some 7B+
5. Get a couple more 7C's done
6. Climb outside more, in all weathers
7. Go to some propper (ie multipitch) cliffs
8. Get some good snowy stuff done in the alps and some decent water ice - tho maybe the year after...
9. Get a 2.1/1st
10. Just climb shit loads
11. Do some 'orrible aid/trad combos
12. Develop local crags that no one can ever be arsed with.
13. Climb inside less!
Game. Fucking. On. :great: ambitous? fuck yeah
Do you climb routes with only one hand or no feet.You've bouldered 7b+/7c and you've not onsighted E3. You are taking font 5+/6a at a push.
-
Not to get any shitter or fatter but I might as well say try to not get any older.
-
Last years aims got done, so going to make these ones harder....
1. Onsight a proper (ie not grit) E2
2. Onisght a grit (or any) E3
3. Ground up E4
3.5 headpoint summat hard - E6?
4. Boulder lots more 7B's and some 7B+
5. Get a couple more 7C's done
6. Climb outside more, in all weathers
7. Go to some propper (ie multipitch) cliffs
8. Get some good snowy stuff done in the alps and some decent water ice - tho maybe the year after...
9. Get a 2.1/1st
10. Just climb shit loads
11. Do some 'orrible aid/trad combos
12. Develop local crags that no one can ever be arsed with.
13. Climb inside less!
Game. Fucking. On. :great: ambitous? fuck yeah
Do you climb routes with only one hand or no feet.You've bouldered 7b+/7c and you've not onsighted E3. You are taking font 5+/6a at a push.
might have something to with with number 13 on the list...
-
Last years aims got done, so going to make these ones harder....
1. Onsight a proper (ie not grit) E2
2. Onisght a grit (or any) E3
3. Ground up E4
3.5 headpoint summat hard - E6?
4. Boulder lots more 7B's and some 7B+
5. Get a couple more 7C's done
6. Climb outside more, in all weathers
7. Go to some propper (ie multipitch) cliffs
8. Get some good snowy stuff done in the alps and some decent water ice - tho maybe the year after...
9. Get a 2.1/1st
10. Just climb shit loads
11. Do some 'orrible aid/trad combos
12. Develop local crags that no one can ever be arsed with.
13. Climb inside less!
Game. Fucking. On. :great: ambitous? fuck yeah
Do you climb routes with only one hand or no feet.You've bouldered 7b+/7c and you've not onsighted E3. You are taking font 5+/6a at a push.
trend i've seen over the last few years... I did my first font 7a+ 5 yrs after my first 8a+ redpoint. I never did a 7a boulder on grit whlist headpointing E7 and onsighting E5.... weird...
-
- get really strong
:-\ thought you were already the Beast Daddy...
:weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench:
I wish I was, I wish I was...
-
Climbing goals -
Work my way through 6's building up a nice long ticklist
Lots of milage on rock
Learn how to climb on grit
Any boulder on any rock type in the 7's
Stay uninjured
Work on flexibility
Get down to 11ish stone so that I can crush
Specific climbing goals -
Razor roof - Cratcliffe
Steep traverse - Stanage Plantation
Mark's roof LH - Gordoms North
The ultimate Gritstone experience - Curbar
Non-climbing -
Learn to use my camera to get the best out of it
Start making loads of good quality vids
Make a climbing vid worthy of the quality vids thread :P
Move out of Bedford to somewhere a, worth living in and b, near some rock
Decide what to do with my life and start doing stuff to move me foward in a career of some sort
Learn to do a kip up
Get at least a half man ascent of a 75m slackline
Not waste my year like I did with most of my last year :/
This should be interesting to look at at the end of the year :P haven't ever had new years resolutions/goals before, time to get to work :)
x
-
trend i've seen over the last few years... I did my first font 7a+ 5 yrs after my first 8a+ redpoint. I never did a 7a boulder on grit whlist headpointing E7 and onsighting E5.... weird...
Was this before pads?
-
not the answer, I've launched up all the dynos at minus ten, crumpled off the length of stanage, hurtled off the bowderstone.... etc /etc... u get the picture. I also had one of the first cellar boards in sheffield... this was 1990. In head pointing i hit the ground from 30ft+ dozens of times.
my point is... the ability to boulder grade now way way exceeds what was the route grade of a climber.... so why is the transfer of this power not leading to greater success on roped climbs of all the different genres. I'm not alone in this cohort.
weird.
-
hows about this for a bit of competition.
1. End 2012 ahead of i_a_c on 8a.poo :jaw:
shall we wager a beer?
It is ON! :boxing:
Play fair boys. UKB rules. No dodgy Kalymnos or Cheddar ticks. No more than one Tor or Brean linkup. A man hanging on the ropes in a helpless state, with his toes off the ground, shall be considered down. :popcorn:
-
my point is... the ability to boulder grade now way way exceeds what was the route grade of a climber.... so why is the transfer of this power not leading to greater success on roped climbs of all the different genres. I'm not alone in this cohort.
weird.
My thoughts exactly. I see lots of (mainly young) strong beasts doing hard blocs but barely pulling down when on the string. Sorry, that was :offtopic:
-
Font 7B
PB every fell race
Simples.
-
Finish reading Clarissa (a monumental challenge it seems)
Deliver book manuscript on time (+ hit one hundred other pending deadlines)
Do some climbing (would it be too much to hope to do some projects, or even to tie on?)
Grow beard to yet more stupendous proportions
-
i see you being more successful than I andy.
-
Success is easy when you set the bar as low as I do.
-
Broken Sam and The Highlife
-
Do you climb routes with only one hand or no feet.You've bouldered 7b+/7c and you've not onsighted E3. You are taking font 5+/6a at a push.
I have done the grand total of 1 7B in a session. It took me loads of goes. The others (ie 7B+/C and 7B's) have either been long term sieges or at least 2 sessions. Im crap at flashing things, did a V6 once, but it finnished up a problem i had already done... :worms: would be happy flashing V4+ as it doesnt happen that often.
The only E3's i've flashed are acme wall and new dimensions. One with beta. Both with pads. Fell off (on the easy bit) on another E3 6a/b. Make of that what you will. I have the stamina of a lemon so want short and hard in my trad life.
oh yeah, and I dont really like falling off shit.
As for climbing inside all the time... i usually get out twice a week if not more, i just want to climb in the rain....
In all seriousness, maybe i should start using more than one limb to climb though. (or mtfu)
-
I think my aims will be much the carry over from this year, but with more emphasis on the trad:
Onsight E5 on different rock types and onsight E4 consistently. (I prefer having routes to inspire me though Mortlock's Arete, The Golden Mile, Bloody Sunday, Great Wall, Supersonic, Calvary and Cardiac Arete are on the list).
Do a really big and reasonably hard rock route somewhere, possibly Dolomites, e.g something on the Marmolada or the Comici Route.
Don't piss about going to crap venues!
I'm not too fussed on sport goals for next year, onsight F7b would be good and tick some classics, and I really should get to Yorkshire finally.
-
hows about this for a bit of competition.
1. End 2012 ahead of i_a_c on 8a.poo
shall we wager a beer?
It is ON! :boxing:
Play fair boys. UKB rules. No dodgy Kalymnos or Cheddar ticks. No more than one Tor or Brean linkup. A man hanging on the ropes in a helpless state, with his toes off the ground, shall be considered down. :popcorn:
:2thumbsup:
And by the end of next year my dubious Chorro points will have dropped off my scorecard... good thing I'm going to Buoux this summer, I've heard points from there really count...
-
To not have a swarm of dragons set fire to my harvest,
I'd like to tick a v10 this year
-
Finish project stanage
Complete a number of nemesis(CoMI!!!)
Get back on some sea cliffs
Hit the big gap in greno(rolled in 5 x, couldn't commit)
More balance in my work/leisure
-
Unlike Andy I'm setting the bar high as usual so I can consistently disappoint myself. Reach for the stars and get kicked in the nuts. Story of my life. The struggle, the frustaration, the setbacks... love it
The Oak (no surprises there)
Tor 8a project ("Unzipped"). Also at the Tor Anger Management / Rage
10,000 8a nu points and 8a in a day
Decent one arm hang or even a pull-up (if golfers goes away) on a first joint edge
Reproduction and Mad Max at High Tor
Something long and classic in Yorkshire (choice of 4)
Attempt Fun de Chichunne at Kalymnos onsight (and downgrade it if sucessful, obviously)
-
Triple 8 newbies and a kitchen.
-
Triple 8 newbies......... a kitchen.
And if you had to choose? :devangel:
-
Keeping mine simple
1) Traverse Project No 1 - the boulder problem. Will resume attempts once seeping stops in spring.
2) Traverse project No 2 - the sea level traverse. Will resume attempts when a rising tide, daylight, a week of dry weather, calm seas, warmer seas, non-greasiness and me being fit enough to do it coincide. This didn't happen last year or the year before :(
-
Triple 8 newbies......... a kitchen.
And if you had to choose? :devangel:
...then one of the bathrooms or any one of the bedrooms would win. :-\
-
50 8s onsight/flash (all time)
8a onsight in the UK
5 or more 8a+ onsights (all time)
Fabelita
Mecca Extension
Kaabah
True North
8c in France or USA (depending on summer trip)
20 8b (all time)
12 8b+ (all time)
8A that’s actually a boulder
8A+
Staminaband reverse
-
After recurrent failures for the last x years, it's time to change tack!
1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project Not been
2. Boulder 7c. I think the Red Wall project will be this grade, so that is excluded. It'd be nice to do a 7C that doesn't instantly get downgraded too. Err, no.
3. Get a house that I can build a woody in. Yes! Needs a lot of work though
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it Working on the persuasion
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists Yeah, right.
6. Run a marathon Just survived the Manc Marathon, oh my God what shit weather
7. Go to Font Due to Aim 3, this may be 2013
8. Do at least ten Munros and ten Wainwrights Nine Wainwrights and counting
9. Stop drinking and get fit Still drinking, yum. Fittest I've been for years though, just not for climbing
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100 Getting there
-
Update...
Climbing:
Finish off my "tick Almscliff up to 6c+ in the last Yorkshire Bouldering Guide" mission by Easter - Nope, still got eight to go including some right buggers!
Climb a minimum of 3 Font 7as in Font at end of March - Nope, too hot!
Climb a Font 7b anywhere - Not yet
Do Breakfast at Burbage West (long-term nemesis) - YYFY!
Go to Ilkley (to my shame I'm still yet to go there since I moved to Yorkshire) - Not yet
Go to Wales and boulder in The Pass / Porth Ysgo - Not yet
Get one of my photos published in a guidebook - Not yet
Get a photo of me published in a guidebook- Not yet
Non-climbing:
Continue non / minimal drinking mission I started in early Dec 2011 - Nope, back in the boozing fold now
Manage balance between lovely but non-climbing girlfriend and achieving climbing ambitions above - Going well
Continue saving for house deposit and hopefully become a homeowner at some point - Going well
-
Post up my aims for 2012
Fail ;)
-
get out more, justify van etc. it's sad, but 8 days in 4 trips to the peak is pretty good for me on this front. been to Dinas and cheddar too.
get finger fully healed and avoid new injuries. hmmmm. finger fixed, but have had shoulder, heel , and wrist injuries since then
Lowrider Not been on it, but lot's of other good grit stuff
Jungle VIP Not been down to dartmoor
Symbiose font trip got moved to peak this spring
I Comme Irun see above
-
f*** wrong log in again
-
1. Louis Armstrong int' cave - started trying it again 2 days ago. Start to undercuts is ok as is finish, need to learn the crux slap move and stop dicking around on long linkups
2. Finish big 4 in Font - Got a bit of a shutdown on Big Golden when tired, not been on Tristesse
3. Get to Magic Wood and destroy Body Count, NES pt1, Electric Boogie - Going in September
4. Get no more points/speeding/parking tickets! Good so far, only been stopped once
5. Climb something harder than 7C on grit - Not even tried, I prefer lime/sandstone/granite/choss
6. Do some structured training instead of just relying on slowly getting better at climbing - started deadlifting/bicep work and crux replicas for helping achieve goal #1
7. Win the UKB FF! - I'd love it... just love it if I can not throw away the ~120 point lead!
-
Broken Sam and The Highlife
Done The Highlife. Need to get stronger for Broken Sam.
-
Onsight E5 on different rock types and onsight E4 consistently. (I prefer having routes to inspire me though Mortlock's Arete, The Golden Mile, Bloody Sunday, Great Wall, Supersonic, Calvary and Cardiac Arete are on the list). Not much trad mileage in yet, but feeling good for it.
Do a really big and reasonably hard rock route somewhere, possibly Dolomites, e.g something on the Marmolada or the Comici Route. Trip to Dolomites planned
Don't piss about going to crap venues! So far, so good, but don't count chickens...
I'm not too fussed on sport goals for next year, onsight F7b would be good and tick some classics, and I really should get to Yorkshire finally. 2 of them second go in Chorro, fairly happy with that, but should have boned down a bit harder really
-
Well since everyone else has been doing it.
Goals -
Climb 7C sport - Am near to doing my first 7b+, have been on Comedy which seems doable. Will add routes, i want to do Comedy, New Dawn, Dominatrix, Vagabond
Boulder 7a regularly in a session - Not really, have done a few 7a's, but not really been bouldering.
Onsight E4 - The Axe on Cloggy would be good! Onsighted an E4, hoping to get a few more done Will add Bloody Sunday, Wellington Crack and Resurrection to this list.
Climb lots of classic V/VI winter routes. Not done, shit winter really
Climb the Frendo, Freney Pillar and Walker Spur Alps trip planned, psyched for at least 2 of these!
Go to CeuseTrip planned, psyched for Super Mickey and Vagabond!
climb Empire of the Sun at Ansteys Should get here this summer, and will get this done!
-
Keeping mine simple
1) Traverse Project No 1 - the boulder problem. Will resume attempts once seeping stops in spring.
2) Traverse project No 2 - the sea level traverse. Will resume attempts when a rising tide, daylight, a week of dry weather, calm seas, warmer seas, non-greasiness and me being fit enough to do it coincide. This didn't happen last year or the year before :(
Well traverse project no 1 went down last night!!!!!!! After getting fucked over by minging wet holds wednesday before last, I had a eureka moment and I went down on Tuesday morning with a length of hosepipe and siphoned the pools out which feed the seeping sections, and amazingly it worked! So stoked to have done it, but it might not be as hard as I initially thought, as I then set up video and did it again 20 mins later.
-
Good work :2thumbsup:
Dedication siphoning out drainage pools, hope you weren't :sick: afterwards.
-
It's just seawater. Swallowed less than I do on an average surf session! Not like it's petrol or anything :)
-
Good effort Chris! Show us the vid!
-
Will see if I can upload an unedited version, but work upload is ridiculously slow!
-
General Stuff
Sports:
Onsight a 6c - failed on a 6c+ attempt in spain
do more than 1 7a or harder did a some one want more now been on a couple
Bouldering:
6C or harder Got a project a holmfirth done
Trad:
More multipitch this year none yet
solid E1 onsight not trad so far this year
Onsight E3 not trad so far this year
Specific Stuff
Do a grand day out in the slate quarries in best possible style not tried yet
Pebble Wall breif go on sunday with a bad finger think it will go
tick a 7a or harder in costa blanca march soft 7a but ticked
Get in loads of millage in my Font trip loads done great trip
enter a bouldering compentered gamba at depot did okay enjoyed it
Visit the slate quarries more than once not been yet hoping for bank holiday weekend
Something I did not put down but was on my goals was to have a photo of me climbing in a guide book. which has happened thanks to a great pic of me climbing at wilderness rocks in the new over the moors guide. (which arrived at work today)
-
While we're on teh subject and with no updates likely for a few months...
Much the same as last year:
font 7C - many candidates yes, found one that succumbed
F8a - actually going to train for it this year. training was going well then paused for 3 months, picking it up again now. With grit season overrunning, lime season may have to run into oct/nov/dec.
onsight 7a/+ consistently, E4 - Resurrection and Flaky Wall still ultimate aims & decent size/difficulty/remoteness mountain route ropes still in hibernation
-
50 8s onsight/flash (all time)
8a onsight in the UK
5 or more 8a+ onsights (all time)
Fabelita
Mecca Extension
Kaabah
True North
8c in France or USA (depending on summer trip)
20 8b (all time)
12 8b+ (all time)
8A that’s actually a boulder
8A+
Staminaband reverse
Getting there... now need to sort my finger out so I can get training and ticking to do the rest.
Additional goal: 8c+ this summer
-
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch
-
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch
::)
-
a proper e8 on grit (potds doesnt count after the varian-pasquill intervention ) End of the affair done. E9 next winter.
boulder more font 7c's on grit (and lime, maybe) Few 7cs on Grit hopefully lime one very soon, if not today.
sport 8a/+ (chimes or something foreign, again big maybe) Little plum full version should go soonish
-
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch
These are highly unlikely
-
Isn't the custom to put in green what has been achieved?
-
Goals -
Climb 7C sport Done
Boulder 7a regularly in a session - Not really, have done a few 7a's, but not really been bouldering.
Onsight E4 - The Axe on Cloggy would be good! Done - The Axe was amazing!
Climb lots of classic V/VI winter routes. Not done, shit winter really
Climb the Frendo, Freney Pillar and Walker Spur Alps trip planned, psyched for at least 2 of these!
Go to Ceuse Done - mixed trip, got a 7b onsight but nothing harder - should have gone for longer
climb Empire of the Sun at Ansteys
-mid year goal additions
Onsight E5
RP 8a unlikely but may as well aim high
-
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch
Might as well put: 'discover a cure for cancer'
-
Same as last year but let's hope there's some fucking proper weather yes, actually had enough dry weather up here in spring omgzor :chair:
1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual sort of ish, have improved a bit and have more determination, terrible motivation and dvts still make it hard tho.
2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness sort of, have got some good climbing partners, but still not really a general activity scene..
3. Get to somewhere interesting in late Jan (Morocco? Gibraltar?) yes, Gibraltar, was nice and early April (Pfalz? Annot?) no, super-syked for Pfalz but didn't make it, will try for late summer / autumn.
4. Week long trip to Lewis no, but is the main goal for the next 3 months, several days sea-cliffing in Skye YYFY, finally got some great routes done, long weekend in Ardnamurchan yes, nice enough.
5. Explore more bouldering over winter, esp: Glen Nevis yes, did some cool new stuff, Torridon/Reiff nowhere near, Skye yes, only one problem but brilliant, Carrock Fell YYFY, great day in great conditions, Queen's Crag yes, even tho just a punter day, Shaftoe sort of but still loads to do, Rothley tried, too cold, Simonside nope.
6. Climb a few E5s and maybe a few F7a+s if I get my fitness back no....taken ages to get back up to normal standard, might be too long to get enough fitness to push further
7. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall sort of ish....have tried but it's just plain hard, longer climbing trips are much more beneficial.
8. Lose 1 stone via the above lost 4 pounds maybe, mostly due to a good spring climbing rather than fitness stuff, not sure how much more I can do but will keep trying.
Sounds so simple on paper. All appendages crossed. :fishing:
A typically very mixed bag but actually with some successes and some progress, I hope I can make it continue.
Actually, more accurate edited version:
1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual.
2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness.
3. Get to Pfalz and maybe Sweden later in summer.
4. Week long trip to Lewis, long weekend on Orkney, day trips to Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh, weekends Gairloch / Reiff / Aberdeen etc.
5. Do some cool boulder problems when it's cold enough at: Torridon, Reiff In The Woods, Brin, Glen Ogle, Loch Lomond, etc.
6. Maintain current trad standards and try to push myself on various routes that inspire me.
7. Keep fit with regular days out climbing, and going gym, pool, and wall.
8. Lose 10 pounds via the above.
9. Look after my injured elbow and encourage it to heal by eccentrics and being careful with bouldering / training.
10. Keep doing suitable training e.g. stamina training and falling practise, to maintain confidence.
-
I know this may be cheating doing a list now, but I only decided on my goals a couple of months back
- Do 10 8a's or above without visiting Dumby
have managed to make a pretty good start on this and have thus far resisted the (incredibly minor) urge to visit the black anston stones
- Do 1 8b or above (have my heart set on Pierre Philosophale, but I'll have to wait and see)
Close on one in UK, but not as close as i would like, will have to find something else, or wait until Font later in the year. Probably a pipedream.
- Get out on rock more (a prerequesite of the above) and explore new (to me) venues
Been out loads this year, but only to a new venue twice, must try harder.
[/list]
-
Mid Year Review
Focus on areas/experiences rather than chasing numbers.
Frankenjura as regularly as possible twice so far, hopefully more opportunities in the autumn
And any two one of the following:
- Dolomites again. Yes, and it was brilliant, strong contender for my Best Climbing Trip Ever
- Oberreintal looks great: planned trip last June fell victim to weather & illness ... as did the one two weeks ago (only weather this time, so the trend is upwards)
- Swiss/Italian alpine granite: Handegg, Salbit, Mello ... not yet
- Welsh trad nostalgia trip ... Munich DAV North Wales Expedition 2013 is in the planning stages
Two big away trips per year is not realistic with work & family. But the Dolomites were great so I am happy
But also: 6c yes, albeit probably soft, 6C Autumn Bouldering Campaign starts in September
Grade-wise I feel somewhat plateau'd. I have done a lot more 6bs than I did last year, but my onsight rate on them is still below 50% and anything harder is still a rarity, even at the wall. This is what comes of not focusing on chasing numbers
-
- Do 1 8b or above (have my heart set on Pierre Philosophale, but I'll have to wait and see)
Have you tried it? It's not exactly the best (despite how it looks with Godoffe on it), painful crack style crimps with startlingly little for feet followed by an all out move to a massive jug (Roughling skipped a lot of the hard climbing by flying between holds I believe).[/list]
-
:boxing: The Beast
I have at least got to a point where I can start throwing myself at it, spring probably
Other than that, stop looking for new stuff and enjoy some classics.
failing upwards at the Gravestones, and a cloggy trip so Tick! Still been prospecting tho... :whistle:
All, of course providing there is any time left over after enjoying spending time with my kids
probably managed about 12 days climbing out this year, but Logan (4) can now ride his pedal bike and Ethan and Dylan (2) can now both rockover...
-
Onsight E5 on different rock types and onsight E4 consistently. (I prefer having routes to inspire me though Mortlock's Arete, The Golden Mile, Bloody Sunday, Great Wall, Supersonic, Calvary and Cardiac Arete are on the list). Ticked a lot of classics and had a good year, but didn't get a chance to get on the harder things I wanted.
Do a really big and reasonably hard rock route somewhere, possibly Dolomites, e.g something on the Marmolada or the Comici Route. Don Quixote on the Marmolada, would like to up the ante next year with something technically harder, but we had a great trip and were inside guidebook times which is encouraging
Don't piss about going to crap venues! Have been held ransom at Horseshoe a couple of times, but otherwise successful.
I'm not too fussed on sport goals for next year, onsight F7b would be good and tick some classics, and I really should get to Yorkshire finally. 2 of them second go in Chorro. Haven't onsighted much in the UK, but ticked several F7b+ and a F7c while not really concentrating on sport climbing, so quite happy with that.
-
May as well join in since I've done my bouldering ones and I wont be going sport climbing again before the end of the year:
50 8s onsight/flash (all time) Nope. Too focused on redpointing on my trips away to manage much onsight volume
8a onsight in the UK Didn't try any
5 or more 8a+ onsights (all time) As for the first failure
Fabelita Too easy
Mecca Extension and again
Kaabah
True North never been near it in a dry state
8c in France or USA (depending on summer trip) trivial
20 8b (all time)
12 8b+ (all time)
8A that’s actually a boulder
8A+
Staminaband reverse
Additional:
8c+
Lots of red there, but I'm actually really pleased with my year. Exceeded my expectations redpointing by doing quite a few 8cs and my first 8c+ (before Stu :tease:); however there was a bit of a lack of onsight volume on trips as a result of this. A lack of redpoint mileage in the UK guaranteed failure on a couple of goals, but since that was mainly due to finger injuries and weather it was somewhat out of my hands.
My most successful but most injured year yet. Fingers crossed next year will keep up the success with less time spent nursing injuries!
-
Keeping mine simple
1) Traverse Project No 1 - the boulder problem. Will resume attempts once seeping stops in spring.
2) Traverse project No 2 - the sea level traverse. Will resume attempts when a rising tide, daylight, a week of dry weather, calm seas, warmer seas, non-greasiness and me being fit enough to do it coincide. This didn't happen last year or the year before :(
Well traverse project no 1 went down last night!!!!!!! After getting fucked over by minging wet holds wednesday before last, I had a eureka moment and I went down on Tuesday morning with a length of hosepipe and siphoned the pools out which feed the seeping sections, and amazingly it worked! So stoked to have done it, but it might not be as hard as I initially thought, as I then set up video and did it again 20 mins later.
And I never got a look in with no 2. It dried out late in the summer and was probably climbable for about a week, but never got a windown in the tides and a stupid enough partent to join me in the quest. Oh well, next year!
-
Unless a miracle happens and the Tor dries I'm all-in for the year too
font 7C - many candidates managed Famous Grouse sitter
F8a - actually going to train for it this year. Maxed out at 7c+
onsight 7a/+ consistently. did a few 7as I think but hardly did any OSing
E4 - Resurrection and Flaky Wall still ultimate aims did an E4 but not the main goals
decent size/difficulty/remoteness mountain route. didn't go anywhere near any mountains
Think I did ok considering the disruption to training early in the year (building work meant I lost all home facilities for three months), the weather and the number of missed days on a rope due to late partner dropouts. Still think I could have got it if I'd been a bit more shrewd tactically but not too disappointed, I've added a grade to my best sport, trad and bouldering efforts and as long as I learn from this year I'm fairly confident it'll go early next year.
-
1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project Didn't climb much this year, and didn't go to a soggy red Wall.
2. Boulder 7c Nope.
3. Get a house that I can build a woody in yup.
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it Spent most of the time getting the said house watertight, so this is a rollover to 2013.
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists Didn't go near any of them.
6. Run a marathon Yup, and I hated it so much I've entered the Rivington 26 fell marathon.
7. Go to Font Next year.
8. Do at least ten Munros and ten Wainwrights no Munros, but done 42 Wainwrights this year.
9. Stop drinking and get fit ha ha ha ha!
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100 Seven so far, but Ullysses took an age to read.
-
Think it might be realistic to include 2 of the 3 lifetime goals this year (exciting!!!) - sport 8a & onsight E5 (font 8a is a way off still...)
So close... did a 7c+ slab 3rd go which I was really happy with. Fell off the very last (easy) move of my 8a project in October, NNFN. Not been dry since. Not done a lot of trad though climbed E4 early in the year
Would be over the moon if these go down.
Also would like to:
- Climb on grit more Maybe once?
- Get to pembroke more often Yes, went a few times and loved it
- Get to Berry Head and finish off Rainbow Bridge No DWS this year
- Successfully slay elbow tendonitis in the next month ahead of Font in Feb Yes, elbows ok
- Crush in Font No, but mainly weather related. 2 short trips in feb & Oct, 1 dry day. Though that went quite well, did the Joker and came close on Aerodynamite
- Boulder 7B or harder at some point in the year Nope
- Train power Have actually worked a lot more on PE this year, so no
A few on the wishlist:
Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, vector, german schoolgirl, arms race, swan, elegy
Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, sulky little boys
Strayed from the goals but not too bad overall... as good as can be expected with this years shitty weather
-
Unlike Andy I'm setting the bar high as usual so I can consistently disappoint myself. Reach for the stars and get kicked in the nuts. Story of my life. The struggle, the frustaration, the setbacks... love it
The Oak (no surprises there)
Tor 8a project ("Unzipped"). Also at the Tor Anger Management / Rage
10,000 8a nu points and 8a in a day
Decent one arm hang or even a pull-up (if golfers goes away) on a first joint edge
Reproduction and Mad Max at High Tor
Something long and classic in Yorkshire (choice of 4)
Attempt Fun de Chichunne at Kalymnos onsight (and downgrade it if sucessful, obviously)
Got my Tor project and hung a first joint edge. Overall a frustrating year climbing-wise.
-
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch
Failed on both :'( all bitches hate me
-
Were you looking for other poodles or are you into cross-breeding?
-
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch
Failed on both :'( all bitches hate me
:-\ ::)
-
Get a bitch
Dump a bitch
Failed on both :'( all bitches hate me
Aim for 2013 - get sparky laid :goodidea:
-
So much for setting goals eh?
A few carried over from 2011 and a couple of new ones for me...
Climbing:
Finish off my "tick Almscliff up to 6c+ in the last Yorkshire Bouldering Guide" mission by Easter - nope, still a way off
Climb a minimum of 3 Font 7as in Font at end of March - nope, it was boiling, did do one (soft touch) though
Climb a Font 7b anywhere - nope, did a 7a+ though
Do Breakfast at Burbage West (long-term nemesis) - YYFY!!
Go to Ilkley (to my shame I'm still yet to go there since I moved to Yorkshire) - been a couple of times, nothing significant done though
Go to Wales and boulder in The Pass / Porth Ysgo - nope
Get one of my photos published in a guidebook - not yet, working to get one in the Yorkshire Gritstone Vol II
Get a photo of me published in a guidebook - as above, I was in Climber though!
Non-climbing:
Continue non / minimal drinking mission I started in early Dec 2011 - hmmm, kinda
Manage balance between lovely but non-climbing girlfriend and achieving climbing ambitions above - definitely
Continue saving for house deposit and hopefully become a homeowner at some point - getting there, hopefully in 2013
Updated for me too...though I have got a couple of weeks to rush about and try to knock off that Font 7b yet!
-
General Sport
Maintain a sensible/progressive strength progression regime ish.
Look after the back and elbows screwed up my fingers though :(
Improve stamina - might prove difficult
Bouldering
Keep chipping slowly away at the grade progression ish - getting outside more would help..
Travel - Put in a good show in...
Font a clutch of 7b/7b+'s
Cornwall - conditions sucked and to be honest I was enjoying skimboarding and building sandcastles with Jr T more
Lake District - didn't make it....
Peak - doing T-Crack despite having a broken finger was a plus..
Non-climbing
Carry on being the best Dad I can be think I'm doing ok - only time will tell but Jr T still says we're best friends so so far so good.. ;D
Keep smiling through the rest of it...
-
get out more, justify van etc. When uninjured have manged a few trips.
get finger fully healed and avoid new injuries. Having basically spent 8 months either climbing on an injured wrist, completely off climbing, or slowly rehabbing wrist, I think this is a definite fail
Lowrider Not been on it, but lot's of other good grit stuff in the spring
Jungle VIP tried this in May, is possible but need to get stronger on that RH crimp, and wrist was fucked at the time
Symbiose just back from font, wasn't really in shape for this sort of difficulty after all summer off with injuries
I Comme Irun see above
-
Boulder 7a.
Yes on UKC grade, no on actual grade - Marks Roof LH
Onsight 7a Sport.
No, but ticked my first with Rose Conorary at Malham
Get on Peak Limestone now I have a car.
Yup
Do some training.
Yes, with emphasis on the word some...
Avoid Gritstone trad where possible!
Pretty much nailed this apart from the odd second, but that's basically sport anyway...
-
Hmmm, after this year's poor show (1 from 4), do I carry on with more of the same or change tack?
Let's see...
Sport - more 7b+ (probably The Lynch or Threadbare LH start). A 7c would be a bonus. Check out venues other than Ansteys and Torbryan, maybe Brean Down.
Trad - failed even to get on last year's goals so... lead E3 regularly. Do a couple of E4s. Be brave and lead Call to Arms on Sanctuary Wall. As per sport, climb at more venues - Avon, Cheddar, Wye valley. Take advantage of CC membership and spend more time in Pembroke and Penwith.
Running - 1hr 35min half marathon. Got the Exeter half in mid-Feb so not much time for this.
Not get injured for two years in a row...
I'm not greedy, will be happy with any of the above!
Stunning failure on all counts this year!
Injury goal lasted until 7th Jan when I fell on my head and 'tweaked' lots of soft tissue in my neck and shoulders. Still sorting that one out. Then in my last training run the week before the Exeter half-marathon I managed to do something bad to the back of my knee... Mildly annoying to say the least as I'd put in a 1:36 for the last full length training run before that. Oh, and I've rounded off the year by tweaking a pulley last week. >:(
Trad - not sure, but I don't think I've been on a trad route this year. :o
Sport - the one brightish light is that I got on Threadbare a couple of times and can do the top section much more comfortably than last year. Otherwise I might have tied onto a rope on four or five days in the whole year. :wall:
-
Main climbing goal is to stop pissing about and actually do some projects that I know I can do but haven't actually done.
No idea, I can't remember what I meant by that
Climb somewhere other than Swanage and Portland.
Sort of tick, but not enough variety, only two weeks away from limestone
8a - several, where and what is negotiable
One that's borderline, I can definitely do more. Probably not enough form or time for another before year end
Font 7C, in font. Multiple candidates I've tried but inevitably something that suits me and that is probably soft. I should probably do real 7B+ too.
Abject failure
E4 - do and consolidate. And maybe, just maybe an E5 like Wall of the Worlds or even Lean Machine.
I'll take a big fat tick on the E4's
The most important thing though is to get a good result in the degree and then use the thing to actually find a job, possibly even one I'd like.
interrupted by a dog, attempt two is ongoing
-
1. Get some more 7C's
2. Do some 7C+'s and hopefully an 8A YYFY!
3. Do some more sport outdoors hopefully do 8a outdoors done a bit more sport but not loads tried chimes and should do it next time I make it to the tor
Specific routes
1. FUCKING ROCKATROCITY!!!! nope not even tried it this year
2. Lou ferrino had a bash and got all the moves
3. Cave problem SS at Raven tor (and hopefully into bashers righthand) not tried it but tried bens roof instead
4. The press and the kneeling start so low starts next
5. Raindogs (although I've never actually been to malham)
Theres probably loads more but I can't really remember
oh and get accepted for my PhD application
-
After last nights disaster (see NNFN for details) i'll join in with this premature goal reviewing!
Goals -
Climb 7c sport Done
Climbed Comedy, first and only 7c, in 7 times on the route in total. Did this by June and should have done a few more. Came really close to a holiday tick of Vagabond in Ceuse. Had i kept up the regularity of climbing i had in the first half of the year I hope i would have managed to get a couple more done.
Boulder 7a regularly in a session Not done.
Didn't really go bouldering, only 8 days bouldering all year, and 6 of those before april. But did 3 7a's. So not too bad i guess…
Onsight E4 - The Axe on Cloggy would be good! Done
Smashed this one! Tried an E4 on my second trad day of the year, which kind of broke down the barriers of what i thought i couldn't do - In my half year of actually climbing I managed 4 E4 onsights and 3 flashes. The Axe was a good experience, something i'd been looking at on the cover of the guidebook for years.
Climb lots of classic V/VI winter routes. Not done.
Had a pretty bad winter. Not so fussed about this one though. Did my first V so not all bad.
Climb the Frendo, Freney Pillar and Walker Spur. Done
Didn't actually do one of the listed routes, but what i was after really was the feeling of a real 'alpine' route. Something committing. Did the Gervasutti Pillar - which was epic! In more ways than one.
Go to Ceuse Done
Had two trips to Ceuse in the end. 2 weeks in June, was great with a 7b onsight and coming close to Vagabond.
The second trip was as a terribly unfit Alpine refugee, did some easier stuff i hadn't done earlier in the summer. Also tried Les Collonettes, psyched to try this next time i go.
climb Empire of the Sun at Ansteys Not done.
Didn't make it to Anstey's at all.
-mid year goal additions
Onsight E5 Not done.
Did an E5 second go, not bad considering i'd only done a few E2's before this year.
RP 8a unlikely but may as well aim high
Lack of climbing in second half of the year put paid to this.
Some numbers…
132 days climbing indoors and out
185 routes
78 E-points
18 7's
One final goal to see out 2012 - build a board.
-
Climb 8b+ (Walking Mussel) Tick. epic seige and constant battle with 4 inch section of seepage that is never normally there
Do my two new route projects on NWales lime Fail. Close on one but was only dry for 3 weeks and got wet the day after i grabbed the penultimate hold. The other is despy and is more of a long termer
Finish off The Brute on the Diamond Fail. Was distracted so didn't have Diamond campaign. Dogged up the route once and it appears i might have missed a few tricks years ago :wall:
Do lots of boulder problems 7c and above in N wales. Tick. I'm definitely better at bouldering than routes,well of the power endurance variety. 7c is easier than last year
Put some good time in on Liquid Ambar and some links. Fail didn't get on it, preoccupied.
Be able to afford a holiday this year :'( fail. don't count girlfriend holidays
More fail than tick =boo
-
Climb 8b+ before Doylo.
Do Doylo's two new route projects on NWales lime. Before Doylo.
Do The Brute on the Diamond, before Doylo.
Do more boulder problem 7c and above in N wales than Doylo.
Put in less time than Doylo on Liquid Ambar, and yet do better links.
Take fewer holidays, gets tiresome when money no object.
The main thing is, you burnt off Nige.
-
Climb 8b+ before Doylo.
Do Doylo's two new route projects on NWales lime. Before Doylo.
Do The Brute on the Diamond, before Doylo.
Do more boulder problem 7c and above in N wales than Doylo.
Put in less time than Doylo on Liquid Ambar, and yet do better links.
Take fewer holidays, gets tiresome when money no object.
The main thing is, you burnt off Nige.
He keeps banging on about a sore foot or something but i know the truth...
-
Getting stronger at bouldering can never mean the year is a fail!
-
No it wasn't a fail. Just more red than green on that silly list...
-
6 Month report:
Same as last year but let's hope there's some fucking proper weather yes, actually had enough dry weather up here in spring omgzor :chair:
1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual sort of ish, have improved a bit and have more determination, terrible motivation and dvts still make it hard tho.
2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness sort of, have got some good climbing partners, but still not really a general activity scene..
3. Get to somewhere interesting in late Jan (Morocco? Gibraltar?) yes, Gibraltar, was nice and early April (Pfalz? Annot?) no, super-syked for Pfalz but didn't make it, will try for late summer / autumn.
4. Week long trip to Lewis no, but is the main goal for the next 3 months, several days sea-cliffing in Skye YYFY, finally got some great routes done, long weekend in Ardnamurchan yes, nice enough.
5. Explore more bouldering over winter, esp: Glen Nevis yes, did some cool new stuff, Torridon/Reiff nowhere near, Skye yes, only one problem but brilliant, Carrock Fell YYFY, great day in great conditions, Queen's Crag yes, even tho just a punter day, Shaftoe sort of but still loads to do, Rothley tried, too cold, Simonside nope.
6. Climb a few E5s and maybe a few F7a+s if I get my fitness back no....taken ages to get back up to normal standard, might be too long to get enough fitness to push further
7. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall sort of ish....have tried but it's just plain hard, longer climbing trips are much more beneficial.
8. Lose 1 stone via the above lost 4 pounds maybe, mostly due to a good spring climbing rather than fitness stuff, not sure how much more I can do but will keep trying.
Sounds so simple on paper. All appendages crossed. :fishing:
A typically very mixed bag but actually with some successes and some progress, I hope I can make it continue.
12 month report:
1. Steadily up my levels of general activity and fitness training until they become habitual. - still trying
2. Keep in touch with partners and keep organised AND try to be part of an active positive scene, not just climbing but general fitness. - still trying, have kept in touch with some good partners, local trad/travelling scene still minimal and non-existent over winter
3. Get to Pfalz and maybe Sweden later in summer. - NO :( very definitely a top priority for next year but got two weeks in Morocco booked over NYE :)
4. Week long trip to Lewis - no - never coordinated plans with my keen mate, will organise with someone else next year, long weekend on Orkney - no, day trips to Glen Nevis - no and Creag Dubh - yes but still so much to do there, weekends Gairloch / Reiff / Aberdeen etc. - yes, had a few good trips
5. Do some cool boulder problems when it's cold enough at: Torridon - yes, didn't do harder stuff but did some cool lines, Reiff In The Woods - yes, Brin, Glen Ogle, Loch Lomond, etc. - not yet but got nuff syke
6. Maintain current trad standards and try to push myself on various routes that inspire me. - yes, kept up a decent pace and did some great challenges at Caithness, Aberdeen, and Cornwall
7. Keep fit with regular days out climbing, and going gym, pool, and wall. - not bad, have kept reasonably active, got into weights a bit too
8. Lose 10 pounds via the above. - not a fucking hope, am saving for liposuction
9. Look after my injured elbow and encourage it to heal by eccentrics and being careful with bouldering / training. - have generally kept it okay and not worsened the injury and it's been fine on trad but have fucked an A2 pulley and got tweaky shoulders, what a wreck
10. Keep doing suitable training e.g. stamina training and falling practise, to maintain confidence. - done a bit, have upped the falling practise as my body is too fucked to do any other training
Basically trad - good, some bouldering - good, trips away - very mixed, physicality - very mixed, injuries - bad. WHATFUCKINGEVER.
-
Sport 8b - The Ripper/The Oak
Nowhere near. only going out on the string 6 times during the worst summer ever may be a factor...
Boulder 7B+, or at least put some effort into something. For once.
Smashed. And gone beyond. Finally try at this bouldering lark and finally succeed ;D
-
Waited for as long as possible as I thought the elusive 7b RP might be on. Close but no cigar (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21361.msg388773.html#msg388773).
Overall, this has not been a great year for my climbing but it has ended well with a very enjoyable trip to Tenerife. The climbing was OK, the ambience mostly unremarkable (Teide national park is a lovely exception), but the company good and the weather fabulous every day for two weeks. I think I’ve had more hours of sunshine than in the preceding 3 months!
Maintain 9 out of 12 months active climbing.
Failed by the start of April! A succession of slightly random things mostly not related to climbing like a sprained ankle, torn calf and succession of viruses. Elbows and shoulders have been pretty good which is a success.
A couple of things from the Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free thread.
Two trips to Verdon and one to Switzerland were blighted by poor weather. I’m claiming all the SW Hard Rock routes in a day (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20915.msg379654/topicseen.html#msg379654) as an accumulative version. It was certainly the most memorable day this year.
Take sport climbing a little more seriously and get up something harder than my hardest onsight (ie a 7b or 7b+).
Flashed a 7a+ (but at Cheddar so doesn’t really count) and got within millimeters of onsighting another last week. Had a play on Want Out at Portland which definitely counts and should be on for 2013. I have a lot to learn about redpointing tactics.
Similarly bouldering at 6C/V5.
Great day at Dunby and great trip to Font. Despite not aiming to ‘perform’, managed one 6b (6c in some guides).
Most of the above is a means to an end, which is to onsight E5.
Not even close. One measly E3 (Soul Sacrifice, which was not at all measly and probably Pembroke E4). I blame the weather and the closure of the CC hut at Pembroke for most of the year [/excuses]
-
a proper e8 on grit (potds doesnt count after the varian-pasquill intervention
a couple but only headpunts.
boulder more font 7c's on grit (and lime, maybe)
few more done.
sport 8a/+ (chimes or something foreign, again big maybe)
sort of. one 8a, must try harder.
-
general goals
- boulder 8a
- boulder 7c+but so damn close on so many things...
- boulder 7c (its gonna be a good year)highlight definitely doing supernova in magic wood, such an epic...
- a 7c in font would be outstanding but not mandatoryoverly ambitious at the time, but flashing bleau's art was really cool
- 1-4-7 on the smalls consistently as opposed once a blue mooncan consistently touch the rung both hands, but then again i have stopped campusing since the april or so this year...
- get a beastmaker and actually use itdone and bettered; a board has been built
of my specific goals none have really worked out apart from doing the yorkshireman the other week which was well cool.
im blaming this:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2012/dec/30/rainy-year-end-2012 (http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2012/dec/30/rainy-year-end-2012)[/list]
-
1. Louis Armstrong int' cave - FAIL. Tried a couple times back in March or April, didn't go back to cave all year!
2. Finish big 4 in Font - FAIL. Didn't go to Rempart this year.
3. Get to Magic Wood and destroy Body Count, NES pt1, Electric Boogie -
HALF FAIL. Did Voigas and Left Hand of Darkness instead. Still not tried Electric Boogie!
4. Get no more points/speeding/parking tickets! - SUCCESS. If I can avoid being a dickhead tomorrow!
5. Climb something harder than 7C on grit - FAIL. Not even tried to! Got out a couple of times and pottered about.
6. Do some structured training instead of just relying on slowly getting better at climbing - HALF FAIL. Did fuck all most of the year then after getting fed up of the weather and wasted fuel, I Started 2 weeks ago on a structured training plan aimed at peaking for Late March/early April when it may have stopped raining???
7. Win the UKB FF! - SUCCESS. Made up to end Ian's stranglehold on the league. Not looking too rosy for retaining it!
-
General Stuff
Sports:
Onsight a 6c - Yup after dropping a few on last move did one in north wales
do more than 1 7a or harder did 3 including one in a day drop a couple of others on the last move repeatedly
Bouldering:
6C or harder did my 6C project at holmfirth done
Trad:
More multipitch this year Yup did a few in the end
solid E1 onsight I did not fall off an E1 on lead this year
Onsight E3 did not climb any trad harder than E1
Specific Stuff
Do a grand day out in the slate quarries in best possible style did not try
Pebble Wall fail never really got close or had a proper session on it
tick a 7a or harder in costa blanca march soft 7a but ticked
Get in loads of mileage in my Font trip loads done great trip
enter a bouldering compentered several in the end
Visit the slate quarries more than once went once other planed trips were wash outs
Something I did not put down but was on my goals was to have a photo of me climbing in a guide book. A picture of me climbing looking shit scared at wilderness rocks in the over the moors guide.
all in all a great year
-
general:
- stay injury free - YES LUCKILY
- train properly - YES
- get really strong - NOT REALLY STRONG BUT YES THE STRONGEST I'VE EVER BEEN
- climb more at new places - AHAH EPIC FAIL I BARELY LEFT HOME
- keep this fucking faith despite everything - YES
specific:
- top out my project - NOPE
- Font 8b away from home - NOPE, DIDN'T EVEN TRY ONE
- sport 8c - NOPE, DIDN'T EVEN TRY ONE
non climbing:
- become a better teacher - I SHOULD ASK MY STUDENTS
- enjoy teaching even more - YES AND NO ESP. RECENTLY
- the rest I can't tell...
-
boulder 7a everywhere.
boulder higher than 7a on the grit.
E3 routes.
A few routes on the gritlist.
Spend time on the lime doing sport. (7b)
Unless going to Windy Ledge, dont even consider going to stoney middleton, i cant have my blossoming love affair with limestone ruined by stoney showing me what it eventually becomes.....
All done apart from the sport one.
This years aims are much tougher (Unrealistic..) :whistle:
-
Grades-wise the same as last year: Trad E2, Sport 7a, Boulder 7a. I reckon I have a very good chance of meeting or even exceeding the trad and sport ones and bouldering should be feasible too if I put the effort in.
Did one sport 7a and worked many others and quite a few 7a+s too. Onsighted 6c+ in the Red which hopefully bodes well for 2013.
I didn't even try an E2 and haven't been trad climbing since September. Poor show really: just didn't push myself on trad. :wank:
I was dead set to do a 7A on grit this winter but have ended up climbing outside a pathetic 4 times since returning from the US in October. Hopefully the weather will one day improve and I'll get my projects done. On the plus side I did a number of 6C+s on lime in the summer and didn't feel far off 7A. My PB in 2011 was 6B+ so this is good improvement! ;D
Find less punterish, more psyched, more reliable partners.
Climbed with loads more people this year, all of whom fit at least one of these categories.
Move to Sheffield or other location with similar proximity of rock and population of climbers. Unlikely considering the current job market and the fact I have a good job right where I live now but would be ace and make the above aims easy.
Still living "a stone's throw from the Peak" though, but it feels like a long way this time of year when conditions are variable (to say the least)...
Stretch every day and keep a training diary in order to maintain recent levels of training psyche without injury.
Maintained these for 80% of the year and felt the benefits big time, but then both slipped by the wayside and I felt the lack of benefits just as much! Back on them now.
At least one foreign trip and as many domestic ones as possible.
Would have liked to do a few more domestic ones but went to my dream international destination so pleased with progress this.
Despite what my grade target progress looks like, I really feel like 2012 was a good year for my climbing.
-
1. Climb 8a+ in England Overnight Sensation, GBH
2. Climb 8b in England Totally Free 2, Predator
3. Climb two 8b s one power endurance based and one stamina based hmmm, depends if I can blag Predator as Power endurance...
4. Onsight 8a Pren Nota in Siurana
5. Boulder 7C+ (before Bojan, and dynos don't count) Underhand Super Extension (not before Bojan :( )
6. Boulder 7C on the Lime nope... :(
7. Go trad climbing more - yep
8. Onsight some more E6s including some long ones. Lord of the Flies, Rainbow of Recalcitrance, The Great Flake, a few in Pembroke
Get on: The Medium, The Quarryman groove (if you don't try you'll never know...), The Black Bean (Ceuse), Psycho, Skinhead Moonstomp and Ghost Train got on the Medium, Psycho and Ghost Train...
Get Back on: Silk and Spring Voyage Turns out Silk is really hard though...
Go to: Cloggy fail
-
Go G, this year the SYKE will be high. Strangely you forgot your trad and sport targets :shrug:
Might as well do some for me:
1) Carry on climbing despite arrival of child number two on Boxing Day (likely) YES YES YES
2) Sport 8b+ (possible) NO NO NO I'd like to blame the weather, so I will (but it's not the only reason...)
3) A decent glob of trad E5+, not all on grit, not all single pitch! (possible time allowing...) YES YES YES A good start to the trasd year and then... the bastard weather
4) Stick to my training.... (I've never managed this in the past) Hmmmmm
5) To allow me to go big towards the end of summer. (pie in the sky) NO NO NO
These are definitely in order of increasing unlikeliness...
For the first time in years I have no bouldering aspirations.
-
Conditions in the Peak is crap atm, above all this year I hope for good weather to allow me to get out as much as possible.
The next step for me seems like quite a big one, I hope these goals are realised:
V10 On Grit
V10 On Lime
At least one hard grit route
Improve on 2011's total of 3 routes on the lime! Bagging my first 8a would be ideal
Maintain my periodised training at the wall and home, further develop beastly finger strength and hone sic power endurance in time for summers lime crushing plans.
Trips:
Northumberland
Berry Head
Font
Happy crushing all, best of luck for 2012... BRING IT ON :boxing:
Well, the weather never really came, I didnt even attempt a V10 but I did complete my training without missing any sessions and im stronger for it. Made it to Northumberland but not Berry Head or Font :(
-
Simply, my project. More broadly, try to realise potential with a job that can afford me the money and time to do this.
Though it's occupied my mind daily, it's been a tough year with various things going on in the background. During a glimpse of opportunity, I incurred a bad back injury that took several months to go.
Thankfully, the second part of the bigger picture has been a tick and working around the corner from work and a brilliant wall has paved the way for getting serious. Very confident that the next few months will bring a good window of opportunity.
Best wishes to you all with your respective goals.
-
Font 8B
Meh.........
-
Grades-wise the same as last year: Trad E2, Sport 7a, Boulder 7a. I reckon I have a very good chance of meeting or even exceeding the trad and sport ones and bouldering should be feasible too if I put the effort in.
Did one sport 7a and worked many others and quite a few 7a+s too. Onsighted 6c+ in the Red which hopefully bodes well for 2013.
I didn't even try an E2 and haven't been trad climbing since September. Poor show really: just didn't push myself on trad. :wank:
I was dead set to do a 7A on grit this winter but have ended up climbing outside a pathetic 4 times since returning from the US in October. Hopefully the weather will one day improve and I'll get my projects done. On the plus side I did a number of 6C+s on lime in the summer and didn't feel far off 7A. My PB in 2011 was 6B+ so this is good improvement! ;D
Find less punterish, more psyched, more reliable partners.
Climbed with loads more people this year, all of whom fit at least one of these categories.
Move to Sheffield or other location with similar proximity of rock and population of climbers. Unlikely considering the current job market and the fact I have a good job right where I live now but would be ace and make the above aims easy.
Still living "a stone's throw from the Peak" though, but it feels like a long way this time of year when conditions are variable (to say the least)...
Stretch every day and keep a training diary in order to maintain recent levels of training psyche without injury.
Maintained these for 80% of the year and felt the benefits big time, but then both slipped by the wayside and I felt the lack of benefits just as much! Back on them now.
At least one foreign trip and as many domestic ones as possible.
Would have liked to do a few more domestic ones but went to my dream international destination so pleased with progress this.
Despite what my grade target progress looks like, I really feel like 2012 was a good year for my climbing.
Bloody hell Cheque - if you're ticking Font 6c+ on lime then a Font 7a on grit is a formality surely?
Can think of a few suitable Peak classics from my past ticklist that would fit the bill...drop me a PM if you want me to send you a few candidates!
-
First the holidays have already been planned-
1. Week in peak end of May
2. Week in Font end of July (plus all the other weekend trips)
3. 1 month in Turkey should get a fair bit of time in Bafa Golu (if anyone has any info and it hasn't been bought by developers).
Continue exploring new places in Font (more of Coquibus, gorge de Houx....)
Get a few more 6As in the forest (meilleur des mondes - Bois Rond is one on the list) and try not to get shut down on so many 4C-5C problems.
6B indoors.
Mostly just stay uninjured (ish).
7A by 50.
I don't want to complain about the weather and it was nice enough to stop raining for my summer holidays but in terms of outdoor climbing it's been a bit of a disaster.
First no car and then back injury meant I missed the best of the early spring weather then it rained.....I usually manage a couple of camping trips to the forest but this year every booking was cancelled.
Nice week in the Peak, but more of a family thing.
Turkey trip cancelled because of promised new any day now flat not happening (French bureaucracy) but did get a month in the forest with a side trip to Targassonne instead.
Visited a few new places (Mont d'olivet, troglodyte...)
Didn't try anything hard outside and mostly tried to not get more injured, did some unvisited circuits (yellows/ oranges). Got shut down on lots of 4C-5C stuff as usual.
6B indoors done.
-
1. Onsight a proper (ie not grit) E2 nope
2. Onisght a grit (or any) E3 Flashed a few on the grit, might give myself a dubious onsight for one...
3. Ground up E4 only flash
3.5 headpoint summat hard - E6? nope
4. Boulder lots more 7B's and some 7B+ 5 more assorted
5. Get a couple more 7C's done Got another one done!-and in a half hour session - and cherry falls r.h. is 8A on ukc... shame its not true
6. Climb outside more, in all weathers sometimes
7. Go to some propper (ie multipitch) cliffs went to gogarth and tremadog, and dolomites other than that poor
8. Get some good snowy stuff done in the alps and some decent water ice - tho maybe the year after... Flights booked for canadian ice season - no winter touched in 2012 tho
9. Get a 2.1/1st
10. Just climb shit loads did well untill i got a job
11. Do some 'orrible aid/trad combos fail
12. Develop local crags that no one can ever be arsed with. lack of time=lack of keen for this one
13. Climb inside less! probably
14. Be around more for will and not in london The reason to go to london moved to leeds :great: so i have been around for will
-
Bloody hell Cheque - if you're ticking Font 6c+ on lime then a Font 7a on grit is a formality surely?
Can think of a few suitable Peak classics from my past ticklist that would fit the bill...drop me a PM if you want me to send you a few candidates!
Cheers Tommy, that the kind of encouragement that normally leads me to go straight out and do something. PM on its way!
-
14. Be around more for will and not in london The reason to go to london moved to leeds :great: so i have been around for will
Where are you on Sunday then? QUITTER!
-
Get a first. (or at least a good 2.1) missed first by one mark
onsight 7b+/c nope
do some uk 8as not tried any
Chimes of Freedom not tried
more 7Cs, on lime and grit nope
hopefully 7C+ nope
Old-school road trip to Buoux, Verdon & Ceuse in summer/autumn. nope
Do some exciting multipitches.yes!
Do some hardish-but-safe trad without groundfall potential.Does big walling count? Didn't feel very safe but definitely not much groundfall potential
Do some daft link up projects in Cheddar.no
Try harder than last year not to get injured - no training when sleep-deprived, no dangerous routes. spent 6 months rehabbing an A2
What a total failure! :spank:
-
To be fair your successes far outwiegh your fails.
You should have had
"Visit a foreign country where no-one ever goes, climb the most amazing looking rock ever, repeat a nails route and do an amazing FA"
and nothing else for the year.
-
To be fair your successes far outwiegh your fails.
:agree:
And despite saying never again you want to go back :bow: