UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Banana finger on May 06, 2023, 03:26:25 pm
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Not sure if its just me, but there always seems to be a huuuuge gap between the second hardest set and the hardest set (not naming any names :p ).
Normally i can do all of the second hardest set without too much issue (regardez moi), but on the hardest set, quite often i can only do 1 or 2 with the rest being untouchable!
There never seems to be any problems about 7C. The majority of the hard set seem like 8A+ and up....fair enough for wads but it leaves middle of the road climbers like me without stuff to really get stuck into.
Does anyone else find this? Maybe walls should have a hardest set, then maybe a smaller uber wad set which genuinely are 8A+ and up?
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Get weaker. Then the second hardest set with be more of a solid challenge.
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I used to find this at a wall and I think it's an issue where the circuit doesn't have much variety in hold style. That coupled with reach issues meant limited numbers of the hardest circuit I could contemplate let alone do. Perhaps I was just too shit? That's quite likely.
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I think when you reach that level you're expected to drop out of the set problems and start board climbing.
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Not sure if its just me, but there always seems to be a huuuuge gap between the second hardest set and the hardest set (not naming any names :p ).
Normally i can do all of the second hardest set without too much issue (regardez moi), but on the hardest set, quite often i can only do 1 or 2 with the rest being untouchable!
There never seems to be any problems about 7C. The majority of the hard set seem like 8A+ and up....fair enough for wads but it leaves middle of the road climbers like me without stuff to really get stuck into.
Does anyone else find this? Maybe walls should have a hardest set, then maybe a smaller uber wad set which genuinely are 8A+ and up?
The Depot is defo like this. The yellows are usually pretty basic and not too bad, but the oranges can range from alright to uber nails
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Found Depot Pudsey generally had a decent crossover between the top of the yellows and the bottom of the oranges. There the yellows deffo pushed into the high 7's. Not sure if this has changed as not climbed there for a while and not climbed anywhere else enough to comment.
I think when you reach that level you're expected to drop out of the set problems and start board climbing.
Or be a comp beast I guess. See Pope et al climbing a lot of the hard wall problems.
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There goes my reach excuse :whistle:
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Not sure if its just me, but there always seems to be a huuuuge gap between the second hardest set and the hardest set (not naming any names :p ).
Normally i can do all of the second hardest set without too much issue (regardez moi), but on the hardest set, quite often i can only do 1 or 2 with the rest being untouchable!
Isn't this usually a sign that the setters are putting up problems they cannot forerun? In the gyms where the setters are setting problems below their max capabilities the hardest sets are at a decent spread.