UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: chrisbrooke on January 19, 2021, 09:54:56 am
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Hi. I'm new around here.
Where do my hands have to start on Kidneystone at Gardoms, to satisfy the 'back-around-ers' that I've done it properly? I can make the moves starting with RH and right heel in the pocket, LH out left on the chalky crimp, and have seen a few vids like this, but suspect it won't quite do.
Cheers.
Chris
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I don;t know for sure but I reckon that's fine. All the descriptions mention is starting on the pocket.
I always used to believe the flexi flake was out but it seems to have become the norm and have since used it. The definitive hints that it's not in mentioning only slopers and edges.
Logically if it was out and you couldn't use the chalky crimp that you mention then there'd have been scope for another problem starting there and exiting straight up, so 2+2= ?
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Yep, thats what I did. Quite stretched out for me but doable. Seems the way everyone does I've seen as far as handholds go. Would be bullshit if the flake was out, why?!
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Starts matched on the low jug/pocket as I understand it, as per Heartland. It's low but the obvious starting position. Not sure it's possible to reach the crimp this way. Not done it for a few years but keep meaning to go back and look and try and finish off Heartland.
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Wouldn't say that was all that obvious.
I'm sure someone, possibly Simon, spoke to Kristian about it and the outcome is on here somewhere but not coming back in search results
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Starts matched on the low jug/pocket as I understand it, as per Heartland. It's low but the obvious starting position. Not sure it's possible to reach the crimp this way. Not done it for a few years but keep meaning to go back and look and try and finish off Heartland.
I did it this way. Crux is the first move I recall.
A friend of mine has a saying. If you're asking the question then you already know the answer. Seems pertinent here.
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To me it seemed totally logical starting on the crimp and pocket and would be arbitrary to insist on matching the pocket. That is borne out by the fact thats the way its getting done. If that makes it a separate problem, fair enough, but still felt like 7B to me.
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Would be bullshit if the flake was out, why?!
Because it's clearly fragile and nobody with any sense would hang off it. It does move a few mm when weighted.
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Because it's clearly fragile and nobody with any sense would hang off it. It does move a few mm when weighted.
I honestly didn't notice, must have been light at the time! Seems a good candidate for some glue in the back of it though as people a lot bigger and heavier than me are hanging on it!
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I didn't particularly notice it flexing, and I'm quite fat.....
Anyway, thanks all for the comments. Looks like the way I'm doing it is ok enough. I'm not very good, but it definitely feels 7Bish enough like that to me.
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It's low but the obvious starting position.
I don't really agree with that, I thought the logical sitting position was, well, what you can easily reach from sitting. And let's face it if SM can reach the crimp from sitting then it's not a stretch!
Pulling on matched felt contrived to me. But yes adds a hard move which isn't a bad thing I suppose.
Didn't think the flake felt fragile tbh but didn't use it that much.
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The guides say to start on the big hold. I'd say it's obvious that means with both hands. It's the same position as Heartland. And Ru's first guide gave it 7a, which might be relevant if it's commonly started from much higher these days. Like highrepute, I remember the start being the hard bit.
Someone with skills having a look at the flake sounds wise if it is flexing, especially as it's so popular.
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Looks like the way I'm doing it is ok enough
I'd take cofe's and highrepute's word for it over mine and SM's.
Should possibly now be listed as two problems, one with the flake and one without.
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Fair enough. Back around!
I'll have to try the low matching start. I reckon it must add quite a lot of difficulty, as the wide start feels hard enough!
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I started matched (many years ago), mainly to make sure I wouldn't have to go back! remember it feeling tough to start
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Does flex and is in danger of snapping
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Original start was matched on the low pocket. The flake was in.
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See, I was wrong on all counts ;D
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See, I was wrong on all counts ;D
Brilliant :) Well, I'm glad that's all sorted. Cheers guys.
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It's low but the obvious starting position.
I don't really agree with that, I thought the logical sitting position was, well, what you can easily reach from sitting. And let's face it if SM can reach the crimp from sitting then it's not a stretch!
Pulling on matched felt contrived to me. But yes adds a hard move which isn't a bad thing I suppose.
Didn't think the flake felt fragile tbh but didn't use it that much.
Only my view of course, but I thought starting matched made the problem particularly dabby/arse draggy. Maybe needs a situation like on Zaff, with a known sit start and an even lower start? Even if that changes the grade of the higher sit start, that is the way people are currently doing it.
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Using the flake or not may become a moot point soon.... perhaps balancing losing the harder first move....
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Only my view of course, but I thought starting matched made the problem particularly dabby/arse draggy. Maybe needs a situation like on Zaff, with a known sit start and an even lower start? Even if that changes the grade of the higher sit start, that is the way people are currently doing it.
Yes, next time 'round that's probably what we'd do.
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Went today and googled this thread (knew there'd be one).
Started matched in the pockets which didn't feel contrived and the moves out left are good. The dabby move is the cut loose anyway, though I did the start off a slider pad.
Most the videos of this problem start left hand on the crimp and, while I can see this being logical, you can't have 7B for it that way :P That's the problem with videos - everyone just follows them.
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Went today and googled this thread (knew there'd be one).
Started matched in the pockets which didn't feel contrived and the moves out left are good. The dabby move is the cut loose anyway, though I did the start off a slider pad.
Most the videos of this problem start left hand on the crimp and, while I can see this being logical, you can't have 7B for it that way :P That's the problem with videos - everyone just follows them.
I've done a fair few 7Bs and I felt it was bang on 7B starting from the wide crimp and the right hand pocket but i'm also 5'6 meaning the move our to the crimp starting matched feels about 7B on its own.
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Not surprised Footwork found this easy. He's taller than me, even if he self-identifies as short.
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That's the problem with videos - everyone just follows them.
This. A hundred times this.
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Wouldn't say that was all that obvious.
I'm sure someone, possibly Simon, spoke to Kristian about it and the outcome is on here somewhere but not coming back in search results
I couldn't possibly remember what happened nearly 20years ago let alone yesterday but what I do recall is a large boulder directly in front of the sit starts. This now sits at the bottom of the quarry cutting having been car jacked off the edge, and yes it still feels very naughty to this day. After the first accent of Heartland I went back for photos along with Malcolm Smith who was getting photos on that roof thing whatever it's called by Soft on the G.
I had never attempted the top out of what became Kidneystone without a spotter nor was I particularly bothered by it so it is in fact Malcolm's problem not mine. Not actually sure whether I've even done it.