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« Last post by Tom de Gay on May 10, 2024, 11:43:57 am »
This sounds like a myth perpetuated by strong folk who have had a hard time on slabs with supposedly moderate grades.
In their defence, I have a hard time differentiating the difficulty of most Font slabs. Forêt Noire (7A+) feels as hard to me as Super Prestat (7B+).
Some problems in Font do seem have a bit of danger money attached to the grade, but it's not entirely clear how much, and doesn't seem to apply to old school terrifiers like Le Pilier Légendaire at Éléphant, which is E5 6b but was 6C back in the day.
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« Last post by mrjonathanr on May 10, 2024, 11:43:20 am »
Cheers JB, thanks for your input.
The ab at the left side of the main cliff near Heroin was 90m I thought? I've only done it on someone else's kit so may be wrong?
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« Last post by Dingdong on May 10, 2024, 11:37:55 am »
Water companies, whether privatised or not, will have the same income streams
I think your example of Tideway is the exception rather than the rule. And in that scenario the government isn't actually borrowing the money, it's backing it. Governments can borrow at lower rates but will they borrow, or rather, will they enact the legislation in the first place that means they will have to borrow. (2022 estimate for delivering the storm overflows bit of the Environment Act is £178bn, so add some inflation onto that. Source: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/624460a18fa8f527744f0655/storm-overflows-evidence-project-march-2022-addendum.pdf).
I'm not really arguing for or against privatisation, but I wish that people wouldn't talk about nationalisation like it's some silver bullet that will fix everything they don't like about the water environment. I'd love people to have clear ideas of what their aspirations for watercourses are, to know what it would take to get there, and to be cognisant of the challenges and implications (delivering the Environment Act is going to release A LOT of carbon. A LOT.) of getting there. I think the press have let the public down badly on this front. Just my opinion.
Like you say, that's your opinion. Public utilities should all be state owned to remove any semblance of profiteering first of all. You also state that the money will come from the public purse but that's already what's happening anyways as the water companies operate from profit they make from us, the public. The only difference would be that instead of shareholders pocketing 70m every year that extra money could go towards offsetting or capturing that extra carbon from delivering the Environment Act. Also if the press were doing that piss poor of a job communicating issues then surely you guys as private entities could sue newspapers for libel. Except the issue is that you can't because no lies have been told, we can see that from the fact that you're getting fined millions.
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« Last post by Wellsy on May 10, 2024, 11:34:13 am »
I'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.
Of the hundreds of years of collective bouldering experience in here, I don't think you’ll find a single person who would support this view. If you think it’s not rare then I’d suggest it must be in a subset of folk you climb with.
Again, it's out there, i dunno how common a view it is. But I don't think there's much point carrying on the discussion tbh as its not like anyone here is it disagreement on it
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« Last post by Dingdong on May 10, 2024, 11:30:25 am »
If anything to me it feels like with grit technique is 90% of the difficulty, a lot of stuff is tekkers and then feels piss when you refine it so much you flow on the send go.
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« Last post by teestub on May 10, 2024, 11:28:10 am »
I'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.
Of the hundreds of years of collective bouldering experience in here, I don't think you’ll find a single person who would support this view. If you think it’s not rare then I’d suggest it must be in a subset of folk you climb with.
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« Last post by Wellsy on May 10, 2024, 11:23:08 am »
Should have just pulled on and campused to that good edge I suppose
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« Last post by abarro81 on May 10, 2024, 11:12:04 am »
First time I've ever heard of it in 20 years of climbing.. sounds like TB has never heard of it in even more.. plus it makes absolutely no sense, it takes about 3 seconds to realise it's not how grades actually work and another 3 to realise it's an approach that would inherently be doomed to failure (did my heel pop so many times on Fat Lip because I'm technically inept or because my hamstring is weak, or both?). So I'm pretty happy to say it's idiotic to think that unless you're a beginner.
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« Last post by Wellsy on May 10, 2024, 10:57:20 am »
Idiot is maybe a bit harsh. Incorrect though yes. I'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.
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We sell a lot of low-stretch rope. 10.5mm or 11mm are standard, and most companies treat it as a consumable, so they go through a lot and generally buy mainly on price. The manufacturers know this and compete to be the cheapest, but customers quickly sniff out a rope that is less durable. Over the last decade Beal Contract and English Braids Tutus, both in 10.5mm, have been the biggest sellers. If they want a 'better' rope we sell them Beal Industrie although we only stock 11mm. Generous discounts to any walk in customers but postage costs aren't cheap.
I think all these are a bit thick for an ab rope and I'd go for 10mm or 9mm. If you have a belay device suited to 8 or 8.5mm ropes it may be difficult to use with a stiff 11mm - I had to carry a second device for a while when I was using Reversinos. Now I have a Pivot and a thinner ab rope. 9mm can be a bit terrifying on a big intimidating ab like you get in the Barra Isles, but like 8mm lead lines you get used to it.
I'm not convinced you need 100m and have always got away with less. Originally I got full 200m a reel very cheap and split into 3, they are generally a bit over length so plus stretch, minus knot, you get 70m+ which is plenty for Gogarth in my experience. I think on Pabbay we had a 90m 9mm which was long enough for the biggest abs although there wasn't loads to equalise anchors - you can always take have a separate 15m length for the rare times it's needed.
In the small print, most manufacters suggest 'conditioning' the rope by washing and drying it, just in water. This shrinks the sheath onto the core and washes out some of the lubricants used in weaving. You end up with a much stiffer rope without the supple new feel but in theory it should last longer.
As Lopez says, beware uncoiling rope that has been wound on a drum or reel. You may never get it properly untwisted. It has to come off like sellotape, which isn't easy if they've removed the drum it was wound on.
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