UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Three Nine on July 09, 2007, 08:54:13 pm
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While there's lots of beta on passive stretching for climbing in training articles, i've not found much on active stretching. Possibly because many articles focus on stretching for injury prevention/rehab, recovery etc. and not for increasing flexibility (a real need for me!).
About the only thing i have found is from Simpson's article on the moon site.
Anybody care to share secrets? (preferably routines that can be done at home and dont require a wall..!)
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Gotta say I don't do a lot of active (static-active) stretches. I go for passive 99% of the time. But then I'm just ignorant, maybe.
Try:
This (http://people.bath.ac.uk/masrjb/Stretch/stretching_4.html#SEC31)
Or this (http://www.sport-fitness-advisor.com/staticactivestretching.html)
I would assume the stretches are much the same as the passives. Someone like Dylan will no doubt be able to answer your questions better than me.
Edit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwA1uf0chXQ
Not sure how accurate this is, so don't take it as gospel. I would suggest some of what he does is actually passive stretching.
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That's a funky film and now I know what I've been up to for years. I do almost all of the active stretches shown in that video. I was shown them by my physio as a way of countering poor boulderers' posture. I have nothing to add other than what you see in the video has worked very effectively for me - my posture is fine these days.
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I think that most (all?) of the stretches on Moon climbing are passive. I usually advocate passive stretching as they seem to be safer.
The jury is still out on whether they are any better
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/sites/entrez?cmd=Retrieve&db=PubMed&list_uids=15330693&dopt=Abstract
I met this guy a while ago http://www.stretchasia.com who does the active stretches for you.
He's very rich